II 




Class 



Book 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT 



• ■ /'J 



Rider's 

WASHINGTON 

A Guide-Book for Travelers 



RIDER'S GUIDES 

Ready: 

Rider's NEW YORK CITY 
Rider's BERMUDA 
Rider's WASHINGTON 

In Preparation: 

Rider's NEW ENGLAND 
Rider's CALIFORNIA 
Rider's FLORIDA 
Rider's WEST INDIES 



Rider's 

WASHINGTON 

A GUIDE BOOK for TRAVELERS 

with 3 maps and 22 plans 
Compiled under the general editorship of 

FREMONT RIDER 

BY 

DR. FREDERIC TA B E R COOPER 




NEW YORK 

HENRY HOLT AND COMPANY 
1922 



VI 






Copyright, 1922 

by 

The Rider Press, Inc. 



The contents of this volume are fully pro- 
tected by copyrig-ht, both in the United 
States and in foreign countries, and infringe- 
ments thereof will be vigorously prosecuted. 



rfm 



'^3 



Printed in the United States of America 

SEP 25 '22 ^ 

©ClACy€270 




X 



PREFACE 



^ Following New York, Washington of all our cities is 
most obviously deserving of adequate guidebook treatment. 

Soon after the issuance of "Rider's New York City," 
the first in this series of "American Baedekers," therefore, 
editorial work was begun on the Washington volume. The 
war temporarily necessitated some postponement of plan, but 
actual field work was completed early this year. 

The problems met with in the preparation of the "New 
York" volume had to be solved again with the "Washington'' 
guide in peculiarly accentuated form. New York is in a 
constant state of flux; but the last three years in Washington 
have witnessed an unprecedented growth, with attendant dis- 
location and relocation — all particularly disconcerting to the 
maker of guidebooks. 

The bibliography of Washington is of course extensive, 
but authorities of eciual standing disagree astonishingly when 
one attempts to run down specific antiquarian details. Fol- 
lowing the precedent of the New York volume, moreover, 
every endeavor was made to secure information or verification 
of every item at first hand, and this has meant an amount 
of first hand research not easy to appreciate. 

As in the case of "Rider's Bermuda," the actual labor 
of compilation in the present volume has been largely in the 
hands of Dr. Frederic Taber Cooper, to whose painstaking- 
enthusiasm and critical sense whatever excellence it may pos- 
sess is largely due. 

The Editor desires, however, to express his indebtedness 
to the many others who have assisted in the work of compila- 
tion, and particularly to: Miss Florence A. Huxley, who 
read much of the volume in proof and also prepared the 
index ; to his sister-in-law, Mrs. Lyman B. Swormsted, 
formerly treasurer-general of National Society of the 
Daughters of the American Revolution and a Washingtonian 
of many years standing, who went over the data on the D.' 
A. R. headquarters building and gave invaluable advice in 
the annotation of the m.aterial on Shops, Clubs, Hotels and 
other sections of the introduction ; to Dr. Herbert Putnam, 
Librarian of Congress, and H. H. B. Meyer, Chief Bibli- 
ographer, who assumed responsibility for the correc- 
tion of the material relative to that 'building; to the 
Rand, McNally Co. for their co-operation in the making of 



viii RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

the maps and for the use ot two of their floor plans; to his 
cousin, Mr. Gerrit Smith Miller, Curator of the Department 
of Mammals of the Smithsonian Institution, for most cordial 
assistance in securing co-operation in the correction of the 
great mass of material relating to that institution and its 
various museums ; to Biro. Anthony S. F. M., of the Commis- 
sariat of the Holy Land, for the revision of material relative 
to the Franciscan Monastery; to Dr. William Tindall, for 
many years secretar>^ to the Commission of the District of 
Columbia, and an old (resident and enthusiastic student of 
Washington lore, for his courtesy in reading and revising 
many of the street sections, as well as the historical and other 
general isections; to C. Powell Minnigerode, Director of the 
Corcoran x^rt Gallery, who revised the Corcoran data, and to 
Elliott Woods, the Architect of the Capitol, w^ho did the same 
work for that building; to his brother-in-law. Major Stuart 
C. Godfrey, C. E., U. S. A., far suggestions on material relat- 
ing to the War Department buildings; to Lieut. Col. C. O. 
Sherrill, C. E., U. S. A., for reading the White House ma- 
terial, that building being imder his jurisdiction ; to W. A. 
Reid, Trade Adviser of the Pan-American Union, who read 
proof on the Pan-American Building: to Miss Ellen M. Brown, 
John Keller, of the staff of the Washington Evening Star, and 
Robert B. McClean, Business Manager of the Consolidated 
Press in Washington, all of whom assisted in the compilation 
')f the Preliminary material ; to Herbert P. Williams, who gave 
helpful aid in the collection of material; to George F. Bower- 
man, Librarian of the Carnegie Public Library of Washington, 
for his unflagging interest and many helpful suggestions as 
well as for the special privileges he extended in the use of 
the library's unique collection of Washingtoniana ; and to 
Leonard C. Gunnell, of the Smithsonian Institution, who 
generously proffered much valuable advice. 

Acknowledgment should also be made of the help received 
from a large number of local histories and monographs (See 
the Bibliography) ; also more specifically to the following 
works, which have been of special service: The two recent 
standard Histories of Washington, by W. B. Bryan and Dr. 
William Tindall, respectively; the Records of the Columbia 
Historical Society, Which have been of great aid, especially 
regarding the old residential section : Early Days of JVash- 
inc/ton, by Sally S. Mackall, containing many sidelights on 
early Georgetown history; and Mount Vernon, by Paul WMl- 
stach, a wcllnigh indispensable source book of the local history 
of the home of W'ashington. 



PREFACE ix 

To be a guide-book of genuine and practical use to thef 
traveler it is of course necessary, as was remarked in the 
preface to the "New York" volume, to discriminate, and this 
means not merely to select the good from the bad, but to en- 
deavor to give each proper values. With every effort to 
make just appraisal, error of judgment and differences ot 
opinion are of course natural. It need hardly be said, however, 
that no remuneration of any sort, direct or indirect, has secured 
favorable notice in this guide-book. As in the Baedeker 
series, which has been frankly taken as a model, the better 
class, or especially noteworthy, has been indicated by an 
asterisk [*]. 

The Editor is still sure "that only one who has attempted 
to compile a guide-book out of whole cloth, as it were, com- 
pletely appreciates the complexity of the task and the infinite 
opportunity for error which it affords. He realizes, therefore, 
the imperfections and hiatuses of this work more clearly prob- 
ably than will its severest critics ; and he will most cordially 
welcome corrections and suggestions from any source for its 
improvement in succeeding editions." That this volume is 
not fu'Uy worthy of its sulbject he has.no doubt; but it is at 
least offered as a sincere tribute to the capital city of which 
he, as an American citizen, is justly proud. 

The Editor. 
Glen Tor-on-Hudson 
May, 1922 



To 

M. a s. 

Loyal Washingtonian 

With the affection and best wishes 

of the Editor 



ABBREVIATIONS 
USED IN THIS VOLUME 



acad. — academy 

adm. — Admiral 

Amer. — American 

apt. — ^Apartment 

arch. — architect 

assn. — association 

Rap. — Baptist 

bk. — bank, book 

bldg. — ^building 

blvd. — boulevard 

bur. — bureau, burial 

cem. — cemetery 

ch. — church 

CO. — company, county 

coll. — collection, college 

com. — commodore 

comm. — commission 

commr. — commissioner 

Cong. — Congregational 

ct. — court 

D. C. — District of Columbia 

dept. — department 

descrip. — description 

dist. — district 

E. — east 

engr. — engineer 

ethnol. — ethnological 

fed. — federal, federation 

gall. — gallery 

H. S.— High School 

Hgts. — Heights 

inst. — institute, institution 

is. — island 

L.— left 

Ibn. — librarian 



lib. — librarj^ 

loc. — location 

M. E. — Methodist Episcopal 

med. — medical 

mem. — memorial 

mi. — ^mile, miles 

mon. — monument 

mus. — museum 

Mt. — Mount 

N. — north 

nat. — national 

p. — page, pages 

P. E. — Protestant Episcopal 

P. S.— Public School 

ipk. — park 

pi. — place 

pres. — President 

Presb. — Presbyterian 

Pt.— Point 

R. — right 

R. C. — Roman Catholic 

R. R. — railroad 

Ref'd.— Reformed 

regt. — regiment 

res. — residence 

res't. — restaurant 

S. — south 

sculp. — sculptor 

sec. — secretary 

soc. — society 

sq. — square 

St. — street 

U. S.— United States 

univ. — university 

W. — west 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 

♦ 
Introduction page 

I. General Description of Waslnngton xvii 

a. Topography of Washington, xvii; b. The Geology 
of Washington, xx. 

II. The History of Washington xxiii 

III. The Public Administration of Washington . . xxxvi 

IV. Washington Bi-bliography xxxviii 

Preliminary Information 

I. Arrival at Washington i 

a. At the Railroad Station, i ; b. At the Steamboat 
Docks, 2; c. Division of Material in this Guide 
Book, 2. 

II. Hotels and Other Accommodations 2 

a. General Information, 2; b. Large and Expensive 
Hotels of the iplirst Rank, 3; c. Eastern Section: 
Capitol Grounds Vicinity, 4; d. Central Section: 
Pennsylvania Avenue, 4; e. Residential Section, 5; 
f . Furnished Ro'oms, 3 ; g. Suites and Furnished Apart- 
ments, 6; h. Boarding Houses, 6. 

HI. Restaurants and Tea Rooms 6 

a. Capitol Gr&unds Section, 7; b. Central Section: 
Pennsylvania Avenue, 7;, c. Residential Section, 8; 
d. Tea Rooms and Cafeterias, 9. 

lY. Urban Travel 10 

a. Surface Car Line?, 10; b. Taxicabs, 20; c. Motor 
Bus Lines, 20; d. Sight-seeing Cars. 21. 

V. Postal Facilities ; Telegraph and Cable Offices . . 22 

a. Postal Facilities. 22; b. Telegraph and Cable 
Offices, 23. 

VI. Theatres, Concerts and Other Places of Entertain- 

Iment 24 

Concerts and Other Musical Entertainments, 26. 

VII. Sports, Games, etc 26 

VIII. Clubs '. 29 

IX. Shops and Stores 31 

X. Churches, Religious Services 33 



xiv RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

PAGE 

XI. Lil)raries and Reading (Rooms Z7 

XII. Aliscellaneous Services for the Traveller 40 

a. Foreign Embassies and Legations, 40; b. Banks 
and Trust Companies, 42; c. Hospitals, 42.; d. Baths, 
r.arber Shops, etc. 43; e. Steamship and Steamboat 
Lines, 43; f. Newsipapers and Periodicals, 44. 

XIII. Planninig a Washington Stay 44 

a. Distribution oi Time, 44; b. A Fourteen Days' 
Itinerary, 46; c. A Five Days' Itinerary, 49. 

Washington Northwest — The Central Section 

{From the Capitol to the White House) 
I. The National Capitol 50 

a. Historj-, 50; b. The Building and Its Approaches, 
53: c. The Rotunda and Dome, 60; d. The Supreme 
Court Rooms, 66; e. The Senate Wing, 69; f. The 
Ground Floor, 79; g. The House Wing, 83; h. 
Statuary Hall, 88. 

II. Pennsylvania Avenue from the Capitol to the 

White House 96 

III. The White House iii 

I\'. Other Buildings in the Executive Grounds 122 

a. The Treasury Building, 122; b. The State, War 
and Navy Building, 126. 

V. The Old Residential Section 131 

(From C Street to Judiciary Square) 

VI. Th'te Modern Shopping District 141 

a. F Street from North Capitol Street to the Treasury 
Building, 141; b. The Section Immediately North of 
F Street, 149; c. The Section Between F' Street and 
Pennsylvania Avenue, 151. 

Washington Northwest — The Residential Section 

(I-roin the Executive Grounds to Rock Creek) 
I. Seventeenth Street South 153 

a. Seventeenth Street from Pennsylvania Avenue to 
Potomac Park, 153; b. The American Red Cross Build- 
ing. 154: c. D. A. R. Memorial Continental Hall, 155; 
(1. The Pan American L'nion Building, 162. 

II. The Corcoran Art Gallery 171 

III. Lafayette Square 184 

I\'. Sixteenth Street to Piney Branch Bridge 195 



TABLE OF CONTENTS xv 

PAGE 

V. New York Avenue from the White House to the 
Naval Hospital 209 

VI. Pennsylvania Avenue from the White House to 
Rock Creek 215 

VH. Other Residential Avenues and Streets 219 

a. Vermont Avenue, 219; b. ConnecticiU Avenue, 222; 

c. Massachusetts Avenue, 225; d. The Numbered 
Streets East of Sixteenth Street, 230; e. The Num- 
bered Streets West of Sixteenth Street, 234; f. 
I Street, 235; g. K Street from nth Street to Rock 
Creek, 237. 

Washington Southwest and the Mall 

I. The Mall from the Botanic Gardens to Fourteenth 
Street 240 

a. The Botanic Gardens, 241; b. The (irant Memorial 
Monument, 242; c. The Bureau of Fisheries, 243; 

d. The Army Medical Museum, 247; e. The Agricul- 
tural Department Buildings, 252. 

II. The Smithsonian Institution — The Smithsonian 

Building 255 

III. The Smithsonian Institution — The Natural His- 
tory Buildling 260 

{Tlie "New" National Miiscitiu) 

a. General Description, 260; b. The \'e-tibule and 
North Pavilion, 263; c. The World W'ar Historical 
Collection, 266; d. The National Galle^ry of Art, 271: 

e. East Wing — Collection of Paleontology, 280; f. Ex- 
hibits of Ethnology. 288: g. Zoological Exhibits, 303; 
h. Miscellaneous Collections, 310. 

IV. The Smithsonian Institution — The Arts and In- 
dustries BuiUding- • • • . 3^2 

V. The Smithsonian Institution — The Freer Gallery 339 

VI. The Washington Monument 342 

VII. From the Monument Grounds to the Arm\- W^ar 
College 348 

VIII. The Lincoln Memorial 353 

Washington Northeast 

I. North Capitol Street 356 

(From the Capitol Grounds to Michigan Avenue) 

II. From the Capitol Grounds to the Columbia In- 
stitute . : Z^3 



xvi RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

PAGE 

Washington Southeast 

I. The Library of Congress 369 

a. General Description and Approadies, 370; b. The 
Main Entrance Hall, 375; c. The Mural Paintings, 
2,T7\ d. The Rotunda, 398. 

II. From the Librarj^ oif Congress to the Congres- 
sional Cemetery 403 

a. Washington Southeast, 403; b. The Congressional 
Cemetery, 408. 

III. Anacositia 412 

The Northern and Western Suburbs 

I. Bladensburg. Brookland and Vicinity 414 

a. Bladensburg, 414; b. The Catholic University of 
America, 416; c. The Franciscan Monastery, 423. 

II. Georgia Avenue to Takoma Park 430 

HI. Connecticut Avenue from Rock Creek Bridge to 

Chevy Chase 440 

IV. ^lassachusetts Avenue from Rock Creek to the 
District Line 442 

\\ The National Zoo-logical Park 444 

VI. The Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul 455 

VII. Georgetown 462 

a. ^r Street and the "Court End," 463; 1). Georgetown 

College, 467; c. The Convent of the Visitation, 

473; d. Georgetown Heights, 476; e. Oak Hill Ceme- 
tery, 479. 

VIII. Cabin John Bridge and the Great Falls of the 

Potomac : 483 

a. Cabin John Bridge, 483; b. The Great Falls of 
the Poto-mac, 484. 

The Virginia Suburbs 

I. Mt. Vernon 487 

a. History of Mt. Vernon, 491; b. The Mansion 
Houi-e, 498; c. The Grounds, 501. 

II. Arlington Cemetery 504 

III, Alexandria 512 

IV. Pohick Church 523 

Index 



INTRODUCTION 

I. General Description of Washington 

Washington, the Capital City of the United States, and 
according to the latest decennial census the fourteenth largest 
in population,* lies in the 83° 51' N. lat, and 17"" W. long., 
calculated at the Capitol, it is 40 mi. distant by rail from 
Bialtimore ; 228 mi. from New York; mo mi. from New 
Orleans; and 31 18 mi. from San Francisco. It is situated in 
and coextensive with the present District of Columibia, com- 
prising that portion of the original ten-mile square, N. of 
the Potomac River, which was left after the retrocession 
■of the southern portion to Virginia. Its area (including land 
and water) is approximately 69^4 sq. mi. It is bounded on 
the northwest, northeast and southeast by the State of Mary- 
land, and on the southwest by the high-water line on the 
Virginia shore — ^since the whole width of the Potomac River 
is reckoned ternitorially within the District. 

a. The Topography of Washington 

Washington is exceptionally fortunate in having 
been almost completely planned in its present form 
before any of it^ streets were actually laid out (p. xxviii). 
Consequently, unlike London and Paris and the downtown 
portion of New York, no part of it grew up haphazard, pre- 
serving the memory of ancient roads and foot-paths. It is 
the result of an orderly and consistent design, combining the 
simplicity of the rectangular system with the picturesqueness 
of spacious, radiating avenues and splendid vistas. It has 
been variously described as a chess-board overlaid with cart 
wheels, and as Paris superimposed upon Philadelphia. In 
drafting this plan, the natural formation of the locality was 
dleverly utilized to the best possible advantage. The general 
features of the plan were later applied in extending the 
street system over those portions of the District of Columbia 
outside of the original city limits. Towards the north, and espe- 
cially above that part of the city w'hich was formerly George- 
town, is the highest ground within the District. The southern 
section of the city along the Potomac is a low level plain 



* By the census of 1920. the population of Washington was 437.571. 
while that of its nearest rival, Newark, was only 414 524, and Cin- 
cinnati 401 247. Recently, however, the population has fallen off con- 
siderably, and the city has probably dropped to i6th position. 



xviii RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

(p. xxii) ; but towards the east it rises abruptly in a ninety- 
foot terrace, the highest eminence of which, now known as 
Capitol Hill (p. 50), seemed foreordained to be the site of 
the Capitol building, whose noble dome dominates the land- 
scape from every side. Radiating from this center, North 
Capitol, East Capitol and South Capitol Streets, together 
with the succession of parks on the W.. known collectively 
as The Mall (p. 240), mark the four cardinal points of 
compass and divide the city into four sections or quarters, 
designated respectively as N. W., N. E., S. W. and S. E. 
(initials which should be added to any Washingon address, 
in order to avoid confusion; if they are omitted, the N. W. 
section is assumed to be meant). 

The streets parallel to North and South Capitol Sts. are 
named from the ordinal numbers : East and West First 
Street, East and West Second Street, etc., the furthest num- 
bered street to the E. being 31st St. and to the W. 26th St., 
within the old City limits. The numbers, however, continue 
in regular order beyond the Anacostia River, to the E., up to 
63d St., at the N. E. cor. of the District, and beyond Rock 
Creek, to the W., up to 52d St., along the E. boundary of 
the Receiving Reservoir Grounds. (Some of the latter streets 
have not yet been cut through.) The streets parallel to East 
Capitol St. and the Mall are named from the letters of the 
alphabet: North and South A Street, North and South B 
Street, etc. It should be noted that there is no A Street 
N. W., or A St. S. W., since the Mall occupies the whole 
space between North and South B Sts., W. of the Capitol 
Grounds. Because of the danger of confusion with I St., 
the letter J was omitted; and because of the like possibility 
of mixing up I St. and ist St., Washingtonians frequently 
write the former ''Eye Street." The last lettered streets 
within the city limits are W St., on the N., and V St., on 
the S. (at Buzzard Point, E. of the War College). Beyond 
the Anacostia River, however, the lettered series terminates 
with W St. 

The proposition that has frequently been made of re- 
christening; the lettered streets with a series of names (pre- 
ferably of American Statesmen), arranged alphabetically 
after the manner of Boston's familiar Arlington, Berkeley, 
Clarend'jii, Dartmouth, etc., Sts., has never been seriously 
considered. But the visitor may remain for months in Wash- 
ington without even noticing that this is precisely the method 
followed in the naming of east-and-west streets lying beyond 
Nortli and South W Sts. For instance, going N.'on Georgia 



TOPOGRAPHY OP WASHINGTON xix 

Ave. we reach, beyond W St., a series beginning Adams, 
Bryant, Channing, etc., Sts., and ending with Webster St., 
beyond which a j:econd series begins with AlHson, Buchanan, 
Crittenden, etc., Sts., closing with Whittier St. ; while a third 
series follows, consisting this time of botanical names in 
place of famous Americans, namely : Aspen, Butternut, Cedar, 
etc., Sts., up to Poplar St., in the extreme northern corner of 
the District. Similar series will be found in the section N. 
of Georgetown, in the Benning section, in Anacostia, — in 
short, in practically all the suburban sections. The advantage, 
of -course, of this S3^stem is that it enables any one, b}' a little 
calculating, to determine approximately the house numbers 
beyond any given street. Thus, since the first number beyond 
N. W St. is 2200, then the first number beyond Webster St. 
should be 4400, and beyond Whittier St. 6600. In point of 
fact, ihowever, some confusion has been caused by the in- 
clusion in some of these series of both an I and a J ; while 
in at least one case the series does not stop with W, but 
includes a Y (Yuma St., in the Tenleytown section). 

The monotony of the chequer-board pattern is, as already 
indicated, broken up by a multitude of small parks and circles, 
from which broad avenues radiate at a great diversity of 
angles. These avenues bear the names of the several states, 
the principal and more central avenues being naturally 
named from the thirteen original colonies, while m.any of the 
largest and most important western states must be contented 
with representation in the remoter districts. Pennsylvania, 
as the "Keystone State," gave its name to the city's principal 
thoroughfare, and direct line of communication between the 
Capitol and the White House, intersecting at the former 
point withA'>7£' Jersey, Delazvare and Maryland Avenues, and 
with projected lines of Vermont and Connecticut Aves., which 
are interrupted by Lafayette Square. Other important points 
of radiation are: Washington Circle (p. 218), Dupont Circle 
(p. 229), Thomas Circle (p. 228), Mt. Vernon Park (p. 225), 
and Lincoln Square (p. 366). 

What impresses the stranger in Washington, next to the 
continual surprise of new and suddenly revealed vistas, is the 
spaciousness of all the streets and avenues. Of the lettered 
streets, the average width is go ft. ; only three are less than 
80 ft., while the widest. North K St., is 147 ft. Of the num- 
bered streets, sixteen range between 100 and 112 ft. N. and 
S. Capitol Sts. are 130 ft. wide, E. Capitol St. and N. i6th 
St., 160 ft. each. 

House numbers were first adopted by the city in 1854, 
and revised in 1869 on the basis of the so-called "decimal 



XX RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

system," the numbers starting from the central divid'ng hnes 
marked by the Capitol Sts., and starting a new hundred beyond 
each street crossing. Accordingly even a stranger can readily 
determine the location of any given address : for instance, 
815 North K St. would lie between 8th and 9th Sts., and 
similarly 422 West 4th St. would lie between D and E Sts. 

In regard to the house numbers, it should be noted that 
in the case of the lettered streets the even numbers are 
on the side nearest the Capitol, while in the case of the num- 
bered streets the even numbers are on the side furthest from 
the Capitol. Thus, for exam.ple, 304 C St. N. W. is on 
the S. side, while 714 F St. S. E. is on the N. side. The 
numbering of the avenues, while somewhat more confusing at 
first, becomes quite simple if one remembers that there are 
no avenues which run precisely Northeast or Northwest, but 
that they all slant at a small angle with either the lettered 
or the numbered streets. Accordingly the house numbers of 
\he avenues obey respectively the rules for the streets with 
whose direction they most nearly coincide. Pennsylvania 
Ave., for instance, running almost E. and W., has its even 
numbers on the S. side west of the Capitol, and on the N. 
side east of the Capitol, after the manner of the lettered 
streets ; while Connecticut Ave. N. W.. running nearly N. and 
S., has its even numbers on the W. or further side, following 
the rule of the numbered streets. 

One last source of confusion is caused by certain streets 
bearing half-numbers, such as 4.% St. In such cases the 
house numbers do not begin with even hundreds, but with 
so-many-hundred-and-fifty ; for instance, the building at the 
S. W^ cor. of Pennsylvania Ave. and 4^^ St. is not No. 400 
but No. 450. 

b. The Geology of Washington 

The District of Columbia lies within that lengthy 
section of the Atlantic coast consisting of a broad 
slope that descends from the Appalachian Mountains to the 
ocean and continues beneath it. This slope comprises two di- 
visions of radically different origin, but with an indefinite 
boundary: 1. the higher western portion, known as the 
Piedmont Plateau and underlain by very old rocks which 
have passed through many changes of structure and position ; 
2. the C 'astal Plain, formed of numerous layers of uncon- 
solidated sediments, sand, gravel and loam, which lie almost 
as originally deposited. 



GEOLOGY OF WASHINGTON xxi 

Accordingl}^ the geologic formations of the Washington 
district fall into two classes : first, the ancient and highly 
crystalline rocks ; and secondly, the unconsolidated beds of 
the Coastal Plain. The former occur chiefly to the north- 
west and southwest of Washington ; the latter lie to the 
south and east. The greater part of the city proper is built 
upon these unsolidified beds. 

The Archaean Rocks. The principal varieties of rock found in or 
near the District of Cohtnibia are as fellows: i. Carolina Gneiss, 
occurring northwest of Washington, where it may be seen along the 
gorges of the Potomac. It consists of alternate layers of gneiss and 
schist, varying from dark bluish -gray, when newly exposed, to green 
and yellowish-gray when weathered. 2. Granite Gneiss, of which there 
occurs a large irregular belt between Georgetown and Falls 
Church. This rock is similar in coloring to the Carolina gneiss, but 
it has a fine and uniform texture. It is the result of metamorphism 
of original granite. Complete disintegration of granite gneiss pro- 
duces a stiff red clay. Fine specimens of this process may be seen 
in the deep road cuts between Washingtoin and Chevy Chase (p. 12). 
3. Diorite and Diorite Gneiss. The largest area in which this rock 
occurs extends N. and S. through Cabin John (p. 15); the second 
largest stretches N. from Georgetown. It is an igneous rock of massive 
texture, of a greenish-gray shading to black, the green being more pro- 
nounced in proportion to the amount of hornblende it contains. The 
fact that it cuts through the Carolina and granite gneiss shows it to be 
the youngest formation of the three. 4. Gabbro and Mctagabbro. 
Gabbro is a massive rock shading from dark gray to black. The largest 
area in which it is found is northeast of Cabin John, where metagabbro 
(from dark olive to a lighter green) also occurs. 5. Granite. Three 
different kinds are distinguished in the Washington district: a. the 
granite occurring in the beds ot granite gneiess; b. a series of granite 
dikes that cut into the beds of Carolina gneiss. This granite is com- 
posed almost wholly of quartz and feldspar and is of a very light gray 
tone, weathering almost to white; c. two exposed belts in the basin of 
Rock Creek and the quarries on Broad Branch. This is a coarse aggre- 
gate of quartz and orthoclase feldspar, with plagioclase and biotite. 

Coastal Plain Formations. These are locally of far more 
importance and interest than the Archaean rock formations 
above treated, because they form more than three-quarters 
of the area of W^ashington, inclusive of much of the sur- 
rounding territory. One important fact should be noted : 
that in the geology of this region the strata from the 
Archaean down to the close of the Mesozoic period are lack- 
ing. There are no traces of Permian, Triassic or Jurassic 
remains. The unsolidified Cretaceous beds rest directly upon 
the Archaean rock. Geologists distinguish nine distinct layers 
of these unsolidified deposits, separated, with one exception, 
by long periods of erosion. The separate layers are not of 
uniform extent, and nowhere do all nine occur superimposed; 
indeed, as will presently be shown, a large portion of the 
older city rests upon only two layers of deposit with the 
underlying Archaean rock. Yet all nine formations occur 



xxii RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Avithin the District and exposures of them may be seen with 
comparatively little trouble. 

I. Potomac formation ('Early Cretaceous). This consists of clays 
and sand occurring separately and in all proportions of mixture. It 
occupies the surface over a large part of the Washington district. In 
the terraces along the Potomac, it is overlaid by the Later Columbia 
formation (see below), and in the high terraces \V. of Alexandria and the 
north portion of Washington by earlier members of that formation. 
To the E. it passes beneath the later Cretaceous and Neocene forma- 
tions. Tt lies directly on Archaean rock; thickness, o to 650 
feet. It everlies the greater part of the N. W. region beyond Florida 
Avenue. 2. Matazvan (later Cretaceous). These are deposits of black 
argillaceous, carbonaceous sands and contain abundant moliuscan fossils. 
There are excellent exposures in road icMtB from Buena Vista,' 
to the R. R. cut at Collington, and on the road from Good 
Tiope to Twining (p. 413). 3. Monmouth formation (later Cretaceous). 
Brown sands, varying in thickness from to 25 ft. Found in a small 
area near Collington, N. E. of Washington. 4. Pamunky formation 
(Early Eocene). Sands and marls of a bluish or greenish black. De- 
posits varying from to 120 ft. in depth are found over a wide area 
E. of Washington where they are for the moist part overlaid by Chesa- 
peake or Lafayette formations. 5. Chesapeake formation (Miocene). 
Fine buff sands, clays and diatonaceous deposits, from o to 80 ft. in 
depth. Most of its area is overlaid by Lafayette formation. It occupies 
the greater i)art of the high plateau S. of Washington. Small masses 
imderlaid the Lafayette gravels at Soldiers' Park (p. 432), and between 
Georgetown and Tenleytown. Good exi>osures occur in the road cuts halt 
a mile north-northwest of the Naval Observatory (p. 442) and in the 
road cuts about Upper Marlboro. 6. Lafayette formation (Pliocene?). 
Gravels, sands and loams on an extensive plain 20 to 30 ft. 
in thickness. It covers the high, wide plains S. E. of Washington 
and caps the elevated area at the Soldiers' Home, and the ridge extend- 
ing from W. af Georgetown to Tenleytown. The deposit is mainly quartzite 
gravel and loams, but contains some boulders. 7: Earlier Columbia 
formation (early Pleistocene). This is a deposit of gravels and loams 
found on the higher terraces, with an almost uniform thickness of 20 ft. 
Occurs along the terraces of the Potomac, Rock Creek, Anacostia and 
Patuxant Valleys. The most extensive deposits are W. of Alexandria 
and in Mount Pleasant (p. 13), and adjoining upper portions of tiie 
city of Washington. In the N. portion of the city and up the valley 
of Rock Creek these formations have an average altitude of almost 100 
ft. The most extensive exposures are at the head of i6th St., in the 
upper part of the hollow S. of Anacostia, along Fort Foote Road and 
in old gravel pits on the Southern R. R., E. of SpriiTgfield station. 
8. Later Columbia formation (early Pleistocene). These deposits occur 
in the lower terraces of the Potomac and its larger branches. About 
the city of Washington the more extensive Columbia terrace levels are 
respectively 40 and 90 ft.; the Capitol stands upon the western edge 
of a prominent outlier of the 90-foot terrace. This formation consists 
of: a. a lower series of gravel, containing a heterogeneous mixture of 
pebbles, boulders, and irregular masses of crystalline rocks packed in 
brown sand and grading up into: b, a brown or buff massive loam. The 
finest exposures are in the street and R. R. cuts in the E. and N. W. 
sections of the city. See especially Pennsylvania Ave. extended, E. of 
the .Anacostia River. Thickness, 25 ft. 9. Post-Columbia formation 
(Recx?nt Pleistocene). This formation occurs mainly below tide water. 
To the S. and W. of the Mall a large area has' been filled in from this 
alluvial deposit in the river bed, part of which constitutes Potomac 
Park (p. 3 52). 



HISTORY OF WASHINGTON xxiii 

II. The History of Washington 

The city of Washington has a unique history among 
the capitals of the modern world. Unlike other cities, it 
is not ithe result of a slow growth and development from 
some original modest village, but like Queen Dido's fabled 
Carthage, a bold creation with its first stately government 
buildings rising spectacularly in the midst of forests, swamps 
and unploughed fields. In the years immediately following 
the Revolutionary war, the United States had no permanent 
Capital. It was not until 1783 that the idea of creating a 
separate national district in which to erect a central seat oi 
government was first suggested, as a consequence of a serious 
riot in Philadelphia. A band of mutinous soldiers of the 
American armiy entered the city on June 20th of that year, 
marched to where the Continental Congress then held its 
sessions, and with threats of violence demanded arrears of 
pay. The pacific guardians of the Quaker city professed 
[themselves unable to cope with the situation, and Congress 
was obliged to retreat to Princeton, N. J. This insolent 
treatment was felt deeply by the members and they agreed 
that the seat of government should be removed to some 
spot beyond danger of a repetition of the occurrence. Four 
months later the first public proposal to acquire territory 
for u National Capital was heard in Congress in the form 
of a n.otion introduced by Elbridge Gerry of Mass., recom- 
mending the Potomac region, near Georgetown, as one of the 
sites worth considering. 

This resolution was carried on Oct. 7th, but subsequently 
amended, and later repealed in April, 1784. For four years 
the plan remained practically in abeyance through opposition 
due to sectional jealousy. In Oct., 1784, Congress appointed 
Commissioners authorized to lay out a District on the Dela- 
ware ; and in Jan., 1785, similar ineffectual efforts were made 
to locate the District on the Potomac. The first decisive step 
was taken when the authority to acquire land for a Federal 
City was embodied in the Constitution of the United States 
(adopted in Sept., 1787), article i, sec. 8, clause 16, which 
gives power to Congress to "exercise exclusive legislation in 
all cases whatsoever, over such district, not exceeding ten 
miles square, as may, by cession of particular states and the 
acceptance of Congress, become the seat of the Government 
of the United States." The above clause in the Constitution 
fixed definitely the size of the new District. Appreciating the 
advantage of having the Capital within its limits, Maryland, 



xxiv RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

throu:jh its legislature Dec. 23d. 1788, ofifered to Congre:? 
"any district (not exceeding ten miles square) which con- 
gress may fix upon and accept for the seat of Government 
of the United States." 

This precipitated, in 1789, a stormy debate in Congress. 
The North and the South each desired to secure the loca- 
tion of the Capital within its limits. New York, Phila- 
delphia, Germantown, Havre de Grace, Wright's Ferry and 
Balrimore each had its partisans. The passage in Sept., 1789, 
of a resolution to the effect that the proposed Capital ought 
to be situated in Pennsylvania on the Susquehanna, gave 
grave offense to the South ; and the friction engendered was 
second only to that aroused by a measure proposed by Alex- 
ander Hamilton, then Secretary of the Treasury, involving 
the assumption by the Government of the debts contracted 
by the several states while prosecuting the War of Indepen- 
dence. The southern states, fearing an increase of central 
power, opposed this measure, which was finally defeated by 
two votes. The tension resulting from these two debated 
questions, of assumption of debts and location of the National 
Capital, led to whispered threats of secession and a dissolution 
of the Union. 

Washington had from the first eagerly espoused the 
scheme of creating what he himself chose to name the "Fed- 
eral City," and it was largely through his personal intiuence 
that the project had been so persistently brought up. The 
final amicable settlement, however, of the future Capital's 
location on the Potomac was due to a compromise effected 
by Hamilton and Jeft'erson. by which Jefferson agreed to 
persuade two of the southern congressmen to vote in favoi 
of the Assumption measure, in return for which Hamilton 
guaranteed that the N'orth would withdraw its opposition to 
a southern location. 

In accordance wnth this agreement two of the Potomac 
members changed their votes, (the Assumption bill was passed 
and on July 9th, 1790, an act was adopted, popularly Icnown 
as the "Residence Act," because it provided for a permanent 
residence for the United States Government. 

The chief provisions of this Act were: i. "That a district of terri- 
tory, not exceeding ten miles square, be located as hereinafter directed 
on the river Potomac, at some place between the mouths of the Eastern 
Branch and the Connogochegue, be, and the same is hereby accepted 
for the permanent seat of the riovernment of the United States";_2. 
It authorized the President to appoint three commissioners to determine 
the location of the proposed district, survey its territory and determine 
its boundaries; 3. These commissioners were further empowered "to 
accept such quantity of land as the President shall deem proper, and 



HISTORY OF WASHINGTON xxv 

according to such plans as the President shall approve, shall prior to 
the first Monday of December, 1800, provide suitable buildings for 
Congress, the President and the public othces." 

In point of fact the present site of the Capital city, in 
the lower portion of the District, was Washington's personal 
choice. When a boy he had seen and admired it while riding 
across country; later, while serving under Braddock, he had 
camped on the hill where the Naval Observatory (p. 442) 
now stands, and his surveyor's instinct had quickly grasped 
the possibilities of this natural spacious amphitheater, lying 
between the heights on the north and the widening Potomac 
en the south. 

The site in question was originally the centre of the 
territory occupied by the Powhatan Indians, a powerful sub- 
tribe of the Algonquins ; and it was here in the council house, 
situated at the foot of what is now Capitol Hill (p. 50), 
that the various Algonquin tribes periodically assembled. The 
first white men to explore the Potomac are believed to have 
been Spaniards, on the strength of certain references in early 
Spanish records to various expeditions in the years 1566-70, 
to places identified with this locality. These Spaniards named 
the Chesapeake the "Bay of St. Mary," and the Potomac 
the "Espiritu Santo." Probably the first Englishman to explore 
this region was Captain John Smith, who in his description 
gave the Indian name of the river as Patawomecke. It was 
not, however, until near the close of the 17th century that 
the first permanent colony was established within the territory 
of the present District of Columbia, consisting of a company 
of Irish and Scotch settlers. One of these early proprietors. 
Francis Pope by name, called his place Rome, and named 
the little stream at the foot of his hill the Tiber. According 
to tradition he was a visionary man and predicted that a 
greater capital than Rome would sometime occupy the hill, 
and rule over a great and flourishing country in the new 
world. 

The poet Tom Moore, who spent a week or more in Georgetown in 
1804, has whimsically satirized these local traditions in the following 
lines: 

"In fancy now, beneath the twilight gloom, 
Come, let me lead thee o'er the second Rome, 
Where tribunes rule, where dusky Davi bow, 
And what was Goose Creek once is Tiber now; 
This embryo Capital, where fancy sees 
Squares in morasses, obelisks in trees 
Which second-sighted seers, even -now adorn 
With shrines unbuilt and heroes yet unborn." 

The name Tiber remained attached to the stream, although it usually 
appears as Goose Creek in the reports of the first commissioners. It 



XXVI RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

flowed S., crossing the present line of Pennsylvania Ave. at a point 
marked by \V. 2d St., flowing thence westerly along X. B St. until it 
joined the Potomac. This portion of the Tiber was utilized as part ot 
the Wasliington Canal, which in course of time became an open sewer, 
and finally, about the middle of the century, was covered over, forming 
the beginning of the city's sewerage system. 

Washington's first step under the authority invested in 
him by the Residence Act, was to pay a personal visit to the 
proposed site of the national capital, accompanied by Jefferson 
and Madison ; his second step was to appoint as the com- 
missioners required by the Act, Thomas Johnson and Daniel 
Carroll of Maryland, and David Stuart of Virginia. 

Thomas Johnson (i 732-1819) was an old friend of Washington, 
who had served under him in the war, and later was appointed by him 
a judge in the Supreme Court (while still acting as commissioner). 
David Carroll (1756-1829) was a Representative from Maryland and 
brother of John Carroll, the first Bishop of Maryland and founder of 
(ieorgetown Academy, now Georgetown University (p. 467). Dr. David 
Stuart was Washington's family physician, who married the widow ot 
John Parke Custis. the son of the President's wife. 

These commissioners proceeded, in accordance with the 
Act of Congress, to run "certain lines of experiment . . . tor 
the purpose of determining the location of a part of the terri- 
tory of ten miles square," and with the approval of Wash- 
ington ran the lines so as to include a certain area to the south 
of the Potomac. On March 3d, 1791, Congress adopted an 
amendment authorizing the inclusion of this portion of V^ir- 
ginia, containing the town of Alexandria ; but it was provided 
that none of the public buildings should be located on tne 
Virginia side of the Potomac. Washington thereupon issued 
a proclamation fixing the boundaries of the District as 
follows : 

"Beginning at Jones' Point, being the upper cape of Hunting Creek, 
in Virginia, and at an angle in the outset of 45 degrees west of north, 
and running in a direct line ten miles, for the first line; then beginning 
again at the same Jones' Point, and running another direct line at a 
right angle with the first, across the Potomac, ten miles, for the second 
line; then, from the terminations of the said first and second lines, 
running two other direct lines, of ten miles each, the one crossing the 
Eastern Branch aforesaid, and the other the Potomac, and meeting each 
other in a point." 

Of the two States within whose boundaries the land 
required for the future District was situated, Virginia had 
already passed an act. Dec. 3d. 1789, consenting to the cession 
of such land as might be required by the national government. 
Maryland followed suit, Dec. igth. 1791. They ceded only 
their state sovereignty. The ownership of the land was to 
remain vested in the individual owners, with the exception 
of su'-h part of the property as the United States should buy 



HISTORY OF WASHINGTON xxvii 

as needed for government purposes. Consequently one of 
the first duties of the commissioners was to learn what 
terms they could make with the private owners of the land. 
They found that, while there were altogether 19 origiiial 
proprietors, there were only four principal landowners : 
Daniel Carroll (usually called "of Duddington," to distin- 
guish him from the commissioner of that name), David 
Burnes, Samuel Davidson and Notley Young. The holdings 
of the last two named were comparatively unimportant. Car- 
roll, however, had a large patrimonial estate called Carrolls- 
burgh, situated along the Anacostia River or Eastern Branch, 
and including the present Capitol Hill. His country seat, 
Duddington Manor, 'became later a prominent feature 
in the social life' of the city. David Buff'nes, the second 
largest holder, was an illiterate Scot, whose rude log cabin 
survived until comparatively recent years, half hidden by the 
opulent Van Ness mansion (p. i/o), the home of his only 
daughter Marcia. Burnes, a justice of the peace and a 
tobacco planter in a small way, proved the most stubborn of 
all the land-holders. He owned a large part of the land covered 
by the present city, including the sites of the White House 
and Treasury Building. Even Washington was at first unable 
to do anything with "obstinate Mr. Burnes," who resented the 
idea of having "a Capital at his front door" ; but finally 
brought him to terms by bluntly informing him that the Gov- 
ernment needed his land and was going to get it one vi/ay or 
another in spite of him. 

After Burnes capitulated, Washington was able to an- 
nounce the terms of the sale (Alarch 31st, 1791) : The original 
owners agreed to convey to the Government, free of cost, 
such portions of their farms as were needed for streets, parks 
and other public reservations ; and to sell such land as was 
needed for Government buildings and public improvements at 
$125 per acre. The remaining land was to be laid out in 
building lots and apportioned equally between the Federal 
Government and the original owners, 

"In this way, without advancing a dollar and at a total cost of 
$36,000, the Government acquired a tract of 600 acres in the heart of 
the city. The 10,136 building lo,ts assigned to it ultimately proved to 
be worth $850,000 and now represent a value of seventy million dollars. 
Shrewd financier as he was, it is doubtful if Washington ever made 
another so good a bargain as that with Burnes and his neighbors," 
(Rufus Rockwell Wilson, in Washington the Capital City.) 

The task of planning the Federal City was entrusted to 
Major Pierre Charles L' Enfant, a French engineer, kinsman 



xxviii RIDER'S WASHINGTON 1 

of D'Estaing, who had come to America in the train of Lafay- 
ette and had fought in the Revolution. 

It was L'Enfant who, at the age of 22, drew the plans for Ft. 
Mifflin, on the Delaware, famous for its gallant and successful resist- 
ance. _ His skill as a designer of fortihcations attracted the attention 
of Washington and won him the appointment of Chief of Engineers, 
with the brevet of Major of Engineers. Later, at Washington's request, 
he designed the insignia of the Society of the Cincinnati. 

During the spring and summer of 1791. L'Enfant elabo- 
rated his designs for the projected city. With prophetic fore- 
sight, he decided to plan a Capital worthy not only of thirteen 
states and a three million population, but of fifty states and 
a population of half a billion. Jefferson, thanks to his service 
abroad, was the only member of the Cabinet then possessing 
in some degree a continental breadth of artistic vision; yet 
even he seems to have wanted the city laid out in a monoton- 
ous system of squares. For when L'Enfant, in April, 1791, 
wrote to Jefferson for plans of the principal cities of Europe 
in the hope that they would "suggest a variety of new ideas 
Jefferson furnished the maps, with the comment that they were 
"none of them comparable to the old Babylon revived and 
exemplified in Philadelphia." L'Enfant temporized with a 
checker-board ground plan; but this he overlaid with a multi- 
tude of broad avenues intersecting the streets at acute angle ^ 
thus making potssible the city of splendid vistas as it exists 
to-day. 

It was Washington's personal desire that the Congressional build- 
ings should be located at a distance of a mile or more from the 
Executive Mansion. L'Enfant, accordinglv, chose the broad plateau in 
the eastern section as the site for the Capitol, and located the other 
public buildings more than a mile northwest, up the proposed Pennsyl- 
vania Ave. John Adams, then Vice-President, vigorously objected on 
the ground that all the public buildings should centre around the 
Capitol. Washington, however, defended L'Enfant's scheme on the 
ground that, if the Legislative and Executive Branches were located 
close together, the latter would be so annoyed by the former that they 
could not complete their business, unless at home. 

Almost from the first, friction arose between L'Enfant 
and the city commissioners. Daniel Carroll's enmity was first 
incurred because, without consulting the engineer's plans, he 
began the erection of a large brick house directly in the 
middle of the future New Jersey Ave. This enraged 
L'Enfant, who promptly had his v,-orkmen tear the building 
down, — an act which brought a reprimand from Washing- 
ton, ordering the re-erection of the building (although wisely, 
not this time on the line of the avenue). A more serious 
cause for friction was L'Enfant's refusal to make public his 
plans when, in October, the Commissioners, wishing to raise 



HISTORY OF WASHINGTON xxix 

mone3% advertised the sale of lots. They took the ground 
that the value of the lots, and consequently, the amount of 
money raised, would depend largely upon their situation in 
relation to the projected public buildings. L'Enfant, on the 
other hand, contended that if his maps were published, spec- 
ulators would seize upon the choice! locations and perma- 
nently destroy the best vistas with crowded blocks of shanties. 

Washington promptly authorized the dismissal of the en- 
gineer with the incidental comment : 

"Men who possess talents which fit them for peculiar purposes are 
almost invariably under the influence of untoward dispositions, or a 
fottish pride, or possessed of some other disqualification by which they 
plague all those with whom they are concerned. But I did not expect to 
meet with such perverseness in Major L'Enfant." 

L'Enfant continued to live in the neighborhood of Wash- 
ington until his death in ' 1825, a disappointed and prematurely 
aged man. For some years he made his home with his friend, 
tDudley Digges. at the latter's Manor House, Chellum Castle, 
.near Bladensiburg. There, for nearly a century, his remains 
lay in an unmarked grave, until their removal in 1909 
(p. 508) to a plot in the National Cemetery at Arlington. In 
his later years he repeatedly petitioned Congress, without suc- 
cess, for real or fancied arrears of pay. There seems ground 
'lor believing him inadequately compensated, since all that he 
received for his plans, involving many months of surveying, 
was $2500. 

L'Enfant was succeeded by his assistant, Andrew Ellicott, 
a Pennsylvania Quaker, and later in life Professor of Mathe- 
matics at West Point. Ellicott retained practically all the 
essential details of L'Enfant's plans. 

The work of building the city, which under the Residence 
Act was to ibe ready for occupancy before the first Monday 
n December, 1800, proceeded slowly. The money advanced 
3y Maryland and Virginia was soon exhausted, and although 
Congress authorized loans, money was scarce and hard to 
jbtain, Washington made a personal application to the 
Legislature of Maryland, which made the needful appropria- 
tion on the condition that the commissioners should add their 
individual guarantee. The work thereafter was rapidly pushed 
forward and, on June 15th, 1800, the commissioners reported 
the public buildings ready for occupancy. At this time only 
the northern section of the Capitol building .was finished. 
Nevertheless, in Oct., 1800, the Government, including 
official records, furniture and the minor officials, arrived in 
a "Packet-sloop." The next day the high officials drove into 



XXX RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

town. In November the 6th Congress assembled in the one 
completed wing of the Capitol. As might have been foreseen, 
accommodations were sadly inadequate. Sec. Wolcott, writing 
to his wife, said, "I do not perceive how the members of 
Congress can possibly secure lodgings, unless they will con- 
sent to live like monks Jn a monastery, crowded ten or twenty 
in one house." 

John Cotton Smith, writing in 1800, says, "Our approach to the 
city was accompanied with sensations not easily described . . . Instead 
of recognizing the avenues and streets portrayed in the plan of the 
city, not one was visible, unless we except a road, with two buildings 
on each side, called the New Jersey Ave. . . . Between the President's 
house and Georgetown a block of houses had been erected, which then 
bore, and may still bear, the name of the six buildings. There were 
also two other blocks, consisting of two or three dwelling houses, in 
different directions, and now and then an isolated wooden habitation — 
the intervening spaces, and indeed the surface of the city generally, 
being covered with scrub-oak bushes on the higher ground, and on 
the marshy soil either trees or some sort of shrubbery . . . The roads 
in every direction were muddy and unimproved." 

Under such conditions, adverse and ironical criticism was 
inevitable ; and for several years Washington continued to be 
known by various disparaging epithets : such as "Wilderness 
City," "Capital of Miserable Huts," "City of Streets wnthoui 
Houses," "City of Magnificent Distances." There was much 
agitation, both in and out of Congress, for a removal of the 
seat of Government to one of the older established cities. 
The advocates of such a movement came to be popularly 
known as "Capital Movers." 

Meanwhile, in these first ten years, the long series of 
experiments in local government had already begun. The 
original commissioners served nearly two years without salary, 
until March 4th, 1793, when on the recommendation of the 
President they were awarded a salary of $1000 each yearly, 
an amount raised later to $1600.00. These commissioners and 
their successors continued to rule Washington until 1802, 
when on May 3d, Congress granted the city its first charter, 
and provided for its government by a Mayor, to be appointed 
annually by the President, and by an elected council of twelve 
members. This charter was amended in 1804, and again in 
1812. the chief change being a provision for the election of 
the Mayor by the members of the Council. 

The w^ar of 1812 had caused little local apprehension 
Washington being regarded as too small and unimportant to be 
chosen as a point of attack. Consequently the city found 
itself quite unprepared when the news first came, in June, 
that thirtj'^-five hundred seasoned soldiers, under Gen. Robert 
Ross, were embarking at Bermuda to join Cockburn's block- 



HISTORY OF WASHINGTON xxxi 

ading squadron in Chesapeake Bay. The chief blame for the 
Capital's unpreparedness rested with Armstrong, Secretary 
of War, whose whole management of the subsequent crisis 
revealed a monumental incapacity, which justified his later 
peremptory dismissal by Madison. "The British," Armstrong 
insisted, "would never be so mad as to make an attempt on 
Washington, and it is therefore totally unnecessary to make 
any preparation tor its defense." 

In spite of Armstrong, some feeble and abortive prepara- 
tions were made. A military district was created, including 
the District of Columbia, Maryland and part of Virginia, 
and placed under command of Gen. William H. Winder, then 
recently returned from captivity as prisoner of war in Canada. 
On assuming command Winder found, to his consternation, 
that, although thirteen regiments of militia had been drafted 
from Pennsylvania, Maryland and Virginia, it was on con- 
dition that they should not be called upon for service until 
the enemy appeared. Winder protested fruitlessly; and the 
Government did not awake to the seriousness of the situation 
until August 20th, when a mounted courier brought the 
news that General Ross, with thirty-five hundred men, had 
effected a landing at Benedict's on the Potomac, only forty 
miles below Washington, and had been reinforced by a 
thousand marines from Cockburn's squadron, now under 
Cochrane. Belated efl:'orts resulted in a hastily gathered army 
amounting to approximately six thousand men. Of these 
there were barely nine hundred regulars to meet the English 
force of forty-five hundred veterans. The latter, under Ross, 
had pushed forward until, on August 24th, they reached a 
fork in the road, one branch of which ran northward to 
Bladensburg, and the other westward to the Eastern Branch 
of the Potomac, crossed opposite Washington by a bridge. 
The main defense, under Winder, had been concentrated 
to defend the Eastern Branch bridge. But, discovering Ross' 
feint movement was designed to hide his real purpose, Winder 
hurried on to Bladensburg, before which he occupied a com- 
manding position in a rising field, but unfortunately with a 
lack of confidence both in himself and his troops. The latter 
were, for the most part, raw recruits facing for the first time 
almost equal numbers of seasoned soldiers and marines. 
The American forces broke and fled in the face of a fusil- 
lade of Congreve rockets. The only part of the American 
army which showed real bravery was that of Barney's 
marines, who cut wide gaps in the British column, but were 
eventually surrounded and compelled to surrender. But they 
had taken a tribute of more than two to one. 



xxxii RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Meanwhile the President and demoralized heads of the 
departments had fled from the city, the panic-stricken Secre- 
tary of the Navy giving his ill-advised parting order to burn 
the Navy Yard, thus destroying Commodore Barney's flo- 
tilla of gun-boats. The British forces reached the Capitol 
grounds at 6 p. m. That night they burned the Capitol (more 
than half the Congressional Library being destroyed (p. 369) ; 
the White House; the Treasury, State and Navy Buildings 
and a number of private edifices, including the office of the 
National Intelligencer, whose editorials had especially aroused 
the resentment of Cockburn. The flames were put out, dur- 
ing the afternoon of August 25th, by one of the severest 
thunder-storms in the city's history. This storm, amounting 
to a cyclone, together with the rumor that an American army 
of twelve thousand was advancing from Virginia, resulted in 
the withdrawal of the British that same evening. 

During this three-weeks' campaign the damage done by the 
British troops to public and private property amounted to up- 
ward of three million dollars, including the valuable cargoes 
taken from the seventy-one vessels captured in the harbor of 
Alexandria. Plans were soon under way for repairing the 
damage done to the Capitol city; and one of the first acts of 
Congress, at a special session held in September, 1814, was to 
appropriate $500,000 for rebuilding the White House and 
the Capitol, notwithstanding the strenuous opposition of the 
"Capital Movers." The White House, restored by Hoban, 
was again open to visitors January 2d, 1818. The Capitol, 
first under Latrobe and then under Bulfinch, was not com- 
pleted until 1830. In 1820 the city government was once more 
modified by a new charter providing for the election of a 
Mayor biennially by popular vote. The government estab- 
lished under this charter continued with but little change 
until 1871. 

In 1846, by the desire of the inhabitants and at the re- 
quest of the State of Virginia, Congress retroceded the thirty 
square miles south of the Potomac originally acquired from 
that state. This section contained the city of Alexandria, for 
the inclusion of which within the District, Congress had passed 
a special amendment, at the earnest desire of President Wash- 
ington. 

Down to the inauguration of President Lincoln, the Cap- 
ital remained a quiet, retired place of slow though steady 
growth, its periods of gay activity during the sessions of 
Congress giving place to prolonged intervals of stagnation 
during the recesses. Active opposition to the Canital's loca- 
tion had long since given place to a nation-wide indifference. 



HISTORY OF WASHlINGTON xxxiii 

With the outbreak of the Civil War the lethargy of the nation 
toward the Capital vanished over night. At the close of 
the first day's bombardment of Ft. Sumter (April 12th, 
1861), Leroy P. Walker, the Confederate Secretary of War, 
boasted that before May ist the Confederate flag would float 
over the Capitol. The answer of the indignant North was 
to transform Washington into a great military post. The 
plains around it were shortly crowded with camps, sheds and 
trains; and every available building in the city had been 
requisitioned by the Government. In a few months the 
population increased from 61,400 to nearly quarter of a 
million, an average maintained throughout the war. A cor- 
respondent of the London Times, returning to the Capital 
in July, 1861, after an absence of only three months, con- 
'"cludes as follows a vivid account of the marvellous change 
wrought : 

"To me, all this was a wonderful sight. As I drove up Pennsyl- 
vania Avenue I could scarcely credit that busy thoroughfare — all red, 
white, and blue with flags, filled with dust from galloping chargers 
and commissariat carts; the sidewalks thronged with people, of whom 
a large proportion carried sword and bayonet; shops full of life and 
activity — was the same as that through which I had driven the first 
morning of my aTrival. Washington now, indeed, is the Capital of 
the United States." 

_ Throughout the war Washington remained the center of 
military activities. Here armies were officered and mar- 
shalled; here also were the principal hospitals for the wounded, 
and the chief depots of military supplies. During the war 
the city was frequently threatened by Confederate armies, 
but was only once in real danger. This was in July, 1864, 
shortly after the Battle of the Wilderness, and at the be- 
ginning of Grant's nine-months' siege of Petersburg. To 
create a diversion in the rear of Grant's army. Gen. Jubal 
A. Early, with part of Lee's troops, was sent up through 
the Shenandoah Valley and across the Potomac. There was 
great alarm in Washington, then protected by less than five 
thousand soldiers ; while Gen. Lew Wallace, then command- 
ing the Middle Department (the territory included between 
Washington and Baltimore), had at his disposal barely three 
thousand men when, on July 9th, he opposed Early's passage 
of the Monocasy River, less than thirty-five miles from the 
Capital. Wallace was defeated after an all day battle, with 
a loss of one-third of his forces. On July nth Early's troops 
appeared before the defenses of the city. But the loss of a 
day in the Battle of the Monocasy had thwarted his purpose, 
giving time for reinforcements to arrive; and within the 
fortifications of Washington there was an armed force of 



xxxiv RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

sixty thousand men. By nightfall, on July 12th, Early's 
forces were in full retreat. 

The greatest tragedy in the city's history occurred on the 
night of April 14th, 1865, when President Lincoln was 
assassinated at Ford's Theatre by the actor John Wilkes 
Booth, (p. 145). 

Washington had hardly recuperated from the saddest 
funeral procession it ever witnessed when, on May 23d and 
24th, it was the scene of an impressive spectacle of widely 
different character, the greatest military display that had 
ever taken place in America — the review of the Federal 
veterans by President Johnson. Marching sixty abreast, it 
took six hours on the first day for Meade's army, and seven 
hours for Sherman's on the second day, -to pass in review. 

In 1871, another experiment in city government was tried 
when, on Feb. 21st, an Act was passed to the effect that on and 
after June ist the corporations of Washington and Georgetown 
should cease to exist, and that the entire District of Columbia 
should constitute a single municipality. This new regime, 
known as the Territorial Government, consisted of a Gov- 
ernor, a Secretary, a Board of Public Works, a Board of 
Health, a Legislative Assembly, and a Delegate in the House 
of Representatives. Under this form of municipal govern- 
ment began what is known as the "Renaissance of Wash- 
ington." 

The first Governor was Henry D. Cooke, who filled the of- 
iiceJ from Miarch, 187 1, until September 1.3, 1873, when he was 
succeeded by Governor Alexander R. Shepherd, who from May, 
1871, until he became Governor had been Vice-President and 
the executive officer of the Board of Public Works. 
Governor Shepherd was a remarkable man, whose great 
services to the city of his birth, repaid at the time by base 
ingratitude, have since been amply recognized. He under- 
took, and carried out, one of the most comprehensive schemes 
of municipal improvement ever conceived, completing in a 
space of three years work which had been delayed for three- 
quarters of a century. Briefly stated, his improvements in- 
cluded: I, The construction of a sewerage system, which, 
by the end of 1875, embraced a total length of one hundred 
and twenty-three miles; 2. A water system, consisting of one 
hundred and thirty-three miles of mains and pipes; 3. The ex- 
tension of the gas-mains, and erection of three thousand public 
lamps; 4. The regrading of a large portion of the city streets, 
including the paving of one hundred and eighty miles, and 
more than two hundred miles of sidewalk; 5. The planting 



HISTORY OF WASHINGTON xxxv 

of twenty-five thousand shade trees of many species, to which 
the city to-day owes a large part of its beauty. 

improvements undertaken on so vast a scale were cor- 
respondingly costly, and the territorial de'bt was increased 
from $3,000,000 in 187 1 to $20,000,000 in 1875. Within less 
than four years the 'territorial Government had become in- 
solvent, and a committee appointed to investigate, reported 
that it had proved "a failure — (being too cumbersome and 
too expensive," adding that there was no remedy short of 
its abolition." Shepherd was driven from office by the abolition 
of the office of Governor, and, meeting with financial reverses, 
removed to Mexdco, where he soon acquired another fortune. 
In later years he returned to receive a royal welcome, and 
after his death to be honored by a public statue on Pennsyl- 
vania Ave. (p. no). 

Next followed the Temporary Commissiion Government 
(1874-78), consisting of three members to be appointed by 
the President, with the consent of the Senate. This in turn 
gave way to the Permanent Commission Government, which 
was established by an act passed June nth, 1878, and cur- 
rently known as the "Organic Act" of the District. (See sec- 
tion on Municipal Government, p. xxxvi.) 

On July 2d, 1881, Washington was shocked by the 
second assassination of a President of the United States, 
when James A. Garfield was shot while passing through the 
former station of the Baltimore and Potomac! R. R!. (p. 244), 
by Charles J, Guiteau, a disappointed office-seeker. Garfield 
died September 19th, and his body lay in state in the Rotunda 
of the Capitol September 22d and 23d. Guiteau was tried in 
the O'ld City Hall (p. 137) and subsequently hanged. 

On June 2d, 1889, there occurred the most recent, and 
probably the highest, of the many floods which have inun- 
dated the lower part of the city. One of the main channel- 
spans of the Old Long Bridge was carried away, and on 
Pennsylvania Ave. and adjacent sections the water rose to 
the level of the horse-car platforms. 

In March, 1894, Jacob S. Coxey with his self-styled 
"Army" of the unemployed, began their widely heralded 
march upon Washington. On April 29th, Coxey and three 
hundred of his followers arrived and were permitted to par- 
ade ; but when they attempted to make speeches from the steps 
of the Capitol, they were arrested, and the three leaders re- 
ceived jail sentences of twenty days each. 

By an Act of Congress, dated February nth, 1895, Con- 
gress decreed that Georgetown "should no longer be^known 



xxxvi RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

as the city of Georgetown, but should constitute a part of the 
city of Washington." 

During the Spanish- American war a military rendezvous 
was main tamed at Camp Alger, situated juist south of Fort 
Myer. 

On October 3d, 1899, Washington witnessed a military 
parade in honor of Admiral Dewey, Victor at Manila in the 
Spanish-American war (the equally impressive funeral pro- 
cession of Admiral Dewey took place January 20th, 1917). 

On September 6th, 1901, the whole country was galvanized 
by the news of the assassination of President McKinley by 
Leon F. Czolgosz. McKinley lay in state in the Capitol. But, 
owing to a then recent statute forbidding the draping of pub- 
lic buildings in Washington, there was no black on the Capitol 
or White House. 

III. The Public Administration of Washington 

The power of determining the manner in which the Dis- 
trict of Columbia should be governed was vested in Congress 
by a clause in the eighth section of the first article of the 
Constitution of the United States : "To exercise exclusive 
legislation in all cases whatsoever over such districts (not 
exceeding ten miles square) as may, by cession of particular 
States and the acceptance of Congress, become the seat of 
the (jovemment of the United States." Under this authority 
three successive forms of government have been tried. In 
1802 Washington was formally chartered with a municipal 
government on the old English plan, including a Mayor and 
Common Council. In 1871 this was succeeded by a terri- 
torial form of government, with a Governor and delegate in 
Congress (isee History, p. xxxv). This in turn gave place to 
the present form of government by a Board of Commis- 
sioners, established under Act of Congress, approved June 
II, 1878. 

Under the first section of the Act it is provided that all 
the territory which was ceded by Maryland for the per- 
manent seat of Government, should continue to be known as 
the District of Columbia, and should continue to be a mun- 
icipal corporation, the government of which should be vested 
in three Commissioners, having in general equal powers and 
duties. Two of these Commissioners are appointed from 
civil life by the President, and confirmed by the U. S. Senate 
for a term of three years each, and until their successors are 
appointed and qualified. To be eligible they must have been 
actual residents of the District for three years previous to 



PUBLIC ADMINISTRATION OF WASH, xxxvii 

their appointment, having during that period claimed resi- 
dence nowhere else. The third Commissioner is detailed from 
time to time by the President from the Engineer Corps of 
the U. S. Army, and must be selected from among the Cap- 
tains or officers of higher grade who have served at least 15 
years in the Engineer Corps. While serving as Commis- 
sioner such officer shall not be required to perform any other 
duty. 

These three Commissioners are in a general way vested 
with jurisdiction covering all the ordinary features of munic- 
ipal government, performing both legislative and executive 
functions. They a»re also ex officio the Public Utilities Com- 
mission of the District of Columbia. Their duties as defined 
by the Act are: to apply revenues; to take charge of Dis- 
trict records and moneys ; to investigate annually and report 
upon charitable institutions ; to make police, building and coal 
regulations ; to abolish and consolidate offices ; to prescribe 
time of payment of taxes, etc. ; to perform the duties of the 
Board of Police, B'oard of Health and School Trustees; to 
exact just and reasonable, rates for gas; and to report annu- 
ally an account of their proceedings to Congress. 

Residents of the District of Columbia are deprived of the 
franchise. During the Congressional session of 1916-17 this 
question of the right of the citizens of the District to vote 
was brought forward by the Shepard bill, the purpose of 
which was to establish prohibition throughout the District, 
the liquor interests and the advocates of District franchise 
alike seeing in it an opportunity to seek for an amendment 
granting the District at least the right of referendum. The 
amendment was defeated. 

The expenditures of the District of Columbia are based 
upon estimates annually prepared by Commissioners and sub- 
mitted to Congress through the Secretary of the Treasury. 
In so far as it approves of these estimates, Congress makes a 
proportionate appropriation out of the U. S. Treasur}^, the 
remainder of the amount needed being levied upon taxable 
property and privileges within the District (exclusive of gov- 
ernment property). At present the proportions are 40 per 
cent out of the Treasury and 60 per cent from taxation. 

There are three Municipal Departments: namely, the 
Fire Department, Health Department and Metropolitan Police, 
all under control of the Commissioners. Other important 
functions are delegated to a number of special Boards, re- 
porting directly to the Commissioners, and including among 



xxxviii RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

others the Board of Charities. Board of Education, Board 
of Medical Examiners, Board of Plumbing. Minimum Wage 
Board, Trustees of the Public Library, etc. 

The District Judiciary, known as "the Supreme Court of 
the District of Columbia," includes a Chief Justice and five 
associate Justices, and occupies what was formerly the City 
Hall. From the decisions of this court appeals are taken to 
the Court of Appeals of the District of Columbia, consisting 
of a Chief Justice and two associate Justices (see p. 138). 

IV. Washington Bibliography 

In the widest sense, a bibliography of Washington would 
make a volume in itself. The lives of all the Presidents and 
leading Statesmen, the intimate diaries and letters of count- 
less sojourners in the Capital City; the casual impressions of 
scores of foreign-visitors all add their side-lights to the social 
and political history of W^ashington. In a narrower sense, 
however, the standard histories, descriptive volumes and 
special monographs on Washington are relatively few as com- 
pared with most wo^rld Capitals ; and those likely to interest 
the average visitor can be summed up in little space. 

Hi.STORY. Two recent authoritative works are : Dr. 
William Tindall's Standard History of the City of Washing- 
ton (1914) and W. B. Bryan's History of the Ahitional Capital, 
From its Foundation through the Period of the Adoption of 
the Organic Act (2 vols. 1914-16). Dr. Tindall, for many 
years secretary of the District Board, has made his 600-page 
volume especially valuable as a history o\t the local municipal 
government. Mr. Bryan's work is especially valuable for its 
full treatment accorded the origin and early development of 
the Capital City, his first volume covering only the period 
down to the close of the War of 1812. Other works of a 
popular form are: C. B. Todd's The Story of Washington, 
the National Capital (1889); R. R. Wilson's Washington, the 
Capital City (2 vols., I9»3i) ; and C. H. Forbes-Lindsav's 
ll'ashington, the City and the Scat of Government (1908). 
The student who wishes to go directly to the earlier sources 
will find a mine of interesting details in the following pioneer 
works: Observations on the River Potomack, the Country 
Adjacent and the City of U^ashington, dated 1793 and written 
by Tobias Lear. George Washington's private secretary; A 
Description of the District of Columbia, bv David B. Warden 
(1816), and Jonathan Elliot's invaluable little history of The 
Ten-Mile-Square (1830). For the middle period much of 



WASHINGTON BI B LI O GRAPH Y xxxix 

alue is to be gleaned from A Picture of Washington, pub- 

ished in 1841, and written by George Watterson, Librarian 

)f Congress, 1815-29. For the closing decades of the 19th 

• entury the Centennial History of the City of Washington 

■1892) is a mine of information regarding the military, mer- 

antile, manufacturing and transportation interests, the press, 

chools, churches, societies, etc., together with much biograph- 

cal matter, and abundant illustrations. Other works deserv- 

ng mention are: Joseph V, Varnum's Seat of Government of 

he United States ( 1854) ; C. A. Townsend's Washington 

Outside and Inside (1874); The National Capital, Past and 

Present, by Stilson Hutchins and J. W. Moore (1885); P^<^- 

tures of the City of Washington in the Past (1898), by S. C. 

Busey; and A History of the City of Washington, its Men 

and Institutions, edited by A. B. Slauson. 

Among the monographs covering special epochs, mention 
should be made of John Melon Stahl's The Invasion of the 
City of Washington; a Disagreeable Study in and of Mili- 
tary Unpreparedness (1918); John S. Williams' History of 
the Invasion and Capture of Washington (1857); also, from 
the British standpoint George R. Giieg's Campaigns of the 
British Army at WasJiington and Nezv Orleans in the Years 
1814-15; for early Georgetown history Early Days in Wash- 
ington (1899), by Sally S. Mackall, is a delightfully readable 
and fairly accurate record. For the history of Mount Vernon 
ihere can be no substitute for the painstaking, exhaustive and 
thoroughly reliable monograph by Paul Wilstach, Mount 
Vernon (1916) ; and Potomac Landings (1921), by the same 
author, is equally satisfactory for the many historic associa- 
lions along the Potomac River. Lastly, the Records of the 
Columbia Historical Society, already numbering 24 vols., are 
full of matter regarding the local history oi buildings, institu- 
•ions, residential sections, biographies, etc. It includes such 
mportant papers as the "Diary of Mrs. William Thornton," 
'The Capture of Washington by the British" and "Unwel- 
come Visitors to Washington," Aug. 24, 1814, by M. I. 
Weller and J. Elwell ; also an almost completed series of 
papers on the Mayors of Washington, 

Description. Among the volumes written in lighter vein, 
and dealing with the picturesque side of the Capital City, its 
social life and famous men and women, the choice is so wide 
that the specific mention of a few is largely a personal selec- 
tion. The following are distinctly readable : Francis E. 
Leupp's Walks About Washington (1915) ; Mary Smith Lock- 



xl RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

wood's Yesterdays in Washington (2 vols., 1915) ; Mrs. Mary 
S, Logan's Thirty Years in Washington (1901), a 752-page 
volume of life and scenes in the Capital; and Mrs. Harriet 
Monroe's Washington, its Sights and Insights (1903). To 
these should be added Ten Years in Washington (1882), by 
Mary Clemmer Ames, who further defines her work as "In- 
side Life and Scenes in the Capital as a Woman Sees Them." 
Of a purely descriptive nature are two articles on Washing- 
ton, written respectively by former President William Howard 
Taft and by Viscount James Bryce, which appeared in the 
National Geographic Magazine in the years 1913 and 1915. 
Recent volumes dealing especially with the social life of 
Washington, include: Mrs. E. N. Chapin's American Court 
Gossip (1887); an anonymous volume, "by the Widow of an 
American Diplomat," entitled Intimacies of Court and Society: 
an Unconventional Narrative of Unofficial Days (1912) ; and 
The Sunny Side of Diplomatic Life, 1875- 1912, by Lillie 
Greenough Hegermann-Lindencrone (1914).' 

Guide Books. Of the strictly formal guide book type, 
one early pioneer volume which deserves mention is Bohn's 
Handbook of Washington (1852), containing numerous en- 
gravings of buildings most of which have since disappeared ; 
Washington and its Environs, edited by De B'. Randolph 
Keim, is a slim red-covered, Baedeker-like little volume, new 
editions of which appeared almost annually for about 20 
>ears, down to the late 8o's, and are a useful storehouse of 
miscellaneous details for that period. In recent years the 
tourist has had to depend upon the two paper-covered popular- 
priced handbooks put out respectively by the Rand, AIcNally 
Company and the B. S. Reynolds Company, to which has 
recently been added an up-to-date little pamphlet entitled, 
Historical Self -Guide to Washington, published by the Wash- 
ington Guidebook Company. Two special handbooks of dis- 
tinct value are: The National Capitol; its Architecture. Art 
and History, by George Cochraine Hazelton, Jr. (1907). and 
Handbook of the New Library of Congress, by Herbert 
Small (1901). No bibliography would be complete without 
mention of Charles Moore's recently published biography of 
Daniel LI. Bnrnham. the distinguished architect who did more 
than any other single man to carry forward the Art Com- 
mission's plans for beautifying Washington, and the record of 
his efforts to this end is fully given in these two ample 
volumes. 

Fiction. Washington has never been especially popular 
with novelists as a l)ackground for their stories, perhaps 



WASHINGTON BiIBLIOGRAPHY xli 

because a very large social element is transient and migra- 
tory. Yet the list begins as early as 1822 when George Wat- 
terson published what was probably the lirst novel laid in 

the District, The L Family in Washington, a story told 

in a series of letters, and followed, in 1827, by The Wanderer 
in Washington. Another early novelist of the Capital, was 
Mrs. Samuel Harrison Smith, whose What is Gentility f — a 
story of Washington society — was published in 1828, and the 
proceeds given to aid the Washington City Orphan Asylum. 
The most prolific of Washington writers v^as Mrs. E. D. E. N. 
Southworth, who, for nearly half a century, averaged one 
novel a year, many of which were laid in the City itself or 
in Bladensburg and other suburbs. Retribution (1843) is 
said to be the first serial story written in America. 

Among comparatively recent novelists who have laid their 
scenes in Washington, should be mentioned Mrs. Frances 
Hodgson Burnett, author of Through One Administration 
(1883) ; Mns. Gertrude Atherton, Whose Senator North 
(1900) stands out prominently among her earlier works; and 
David Graham Phillips, who invaded the Capital City at least 
once with Josiah Craig. Democracy: an American Novel, 
issued anonymously in 1880, was justly esteemed at the time 
as a realistic picture of political life at Washington, in which 
numerous Senators and foreign diplomats were skilfully por- 
trayed. Ot'her novels of about the same period include : Julia 
Magruder's Across the Chasm (1885); Albert G. Riddle's 
Alice Brand (1875) ; J. J. Wheelwright's A Child of the Cen- 
tury (1887), and a series of stories by J. W. De Forest, 
including Justine's Lovers (1878) and Playing the Mischief 
(1875). It should be remembered also that at least the con- 
cluding chapters of Robert Grant's Unleavened Bread, and 
several episodes of Sinclair Lewis' Main Street are enacted 
in the Capital City. And lastly, there are : The Enchanted 
Canyon (1921), by Honore Willsie, where the scene alter- 
nates between Washington and the Grand Canyon of the 
Colorado; and The Wings of Time (1921), by Elizabeth N. 
Hepburn, in which practically the whole story is enacted 
'vithin the District limits. 



PRELIMINARY INFORMATION 

' . I. Arrival in Washington 
a. At the Railroad Station 

All passengers entering Washington by railroad now 
arrive at the Union Station (p. 358). It contains an Infor- 
mation Desk, where time-tables, information concerning routes, 
connections, etc., may be obtained free of charge. Hand lug- 
gage and parcels may be left in the Parcel Room (entrance 
from Grand Concourse, W. of main doorway) at a charge of 
IOC per day for each article. Unifonued porters are on hand 
to carry portable luggage and give all kinds of assistance. A 
porter will accompany the traveller to street car or taxicab 
and see him safely started in the right direction. A small fee 
is expected, varying according to the service rendered. Within 
the main station are telegraph offices both of the Western 
Union and Postal Telegraph Cable Co. 

For the benefit of the traveller from abroad or others unused to 
American^ conditions it| may be added that railroad tickets should be 
purchased at the regular ticket office in the station or at one of the city 
ticket offices, since any tickets ofYered at reduced rates by 
unofficial agents, called "scalpers," may be counterfeit or sold under 
illegal conditions. Children under tive years of age, when accompanied 
by an adult, travel free. Children between iive and twelve are charged 
half fare. Any child, however, occupying a seat in a parlor car must 
pay at least a half fare. Tickets purchased one or more days in advance 
should be stamped with the date of intended departure. Unused tickets 
will be redeemed by the railroad under certain specified conditions. If 
stop-over privileges are desired, this fact should be mentioned when the 
ticket is purchased. 

Incoming Baggage. On all through trains, when ap- 
proaching the city, a uniformed agent for one of the ti-ansfer 
companies passes through the cars and will take checks, give 
a receipt and deliver baggage to any part of Washington. 
Payment may be made either in advance or upon arrival of 
the baggage. If the visitor has not made such arrangements 
on the train he may apply at the office of the Union Transfer 
Co. at N,. W. corner of main Waiting Roo^m. 

Taxi-cabs may be procured at W, end of station. Electric 
cars of several different lines (see p. 10), passing within 
convenient distance of all the principal hotels, pass the Plaza, 
stopping in front of the main South Entrance to the Union 
Station. 

Travellers from abroad will find further general information regard- 
ing purchase of tickets, checking of baggage, etc., in Rider's New York 
Citv. 



2 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

b. At the Steamboat Docks 

Passengers arriving in Washington by any of the Potomac 
River steamboat lines are landed at the wharves at the foot 
of 7th St. S. W., almost two miles S. of the residential section. 
There are, however, several electric car lines running N., the 
most convenient being the 7th St. line marked "Chevy Chase," 
which brings the visitor in a few minutes' run to Pennsylvania 
Ave., where he may transfer E. or W. to the hotel of his 
choice. 

c. Division of Material in This Guide Book 

To aid the traveller in the use of this guide. Washington 
has been divided into the following sections: i. Washington 
Northzvest — The Central Section, embracing that portion of 
Washington Northwest included between the Capitol and the 
White House, and containing the principal business centres, 
the leading theatres and a majority of the hotels frequented 
by transient visitors; 2. Washington Northzvest — The Resi- 
dential Section, including in a comprehensive way all the dis- 
trict N. and W. of the White House, and containing the homes 
of prominent Washingtonians, the foreign Embassies and 
Legations and the prominent social clubs; 3. Washington 
Southzvest and the Mall, the latter the oldest and most import- 
ant unit in the city's system of parkways, and containing, with 
the sole exception of the Corcoran Gallery, all the important 
art collections and museums (the rest of Washington South- 
west, except for Washington's most extensive playground, 
Potomac Park, on its western boundary, is a rather dreary 
waste of old-fashioned dwellings, warehouses, railway tracks 
and wharves) ; 4. Washington Northeast, containing the homes 
of the thrifty middle class, but with little of the first import- 
ance to attract the casual tourist save the Union Station 
through which he arrives and departs; 5. Washington South- 
east, of much the same general character, its one important 
building being the Library of Congress; 6. the Northern and 
Western Suburbs, particularly Georgetown; 7. the important 
Virginia Suburbs, particularly Mt. Vernon and Alexandria, 

II. Hotels and Other Accommodations 

a. General Information 

In Washington the great majority of hotels are run on 
the European plan, and there are comparatively few where a 
fixed weekly rate for room and meals may be obtained. In 



HOTELS A'ND OTHER ACCOMMODATIONS 3 

fact, there are few hotels that make any reduction by the 
week or month in their charges for rooms. In choosing a 
hotel the visitor naturally considers the two questions of 
expense and location. The most expensive hotels are all 
situated on or near the upper end of Pennsylvania Ave., 
within a few squares of the White House. Moderate priced 
hotels, however, may be found in this section as well as in 
the lower Pennsylvania Ave. and Capitol grounds neighbor- 
hoods. The problem of location depends, as in other cities, 
upon the length of the visitor's proposed stay, and the pur- 
pose of his visit, whether for business, for social reasons or 
merely for sightseeing. For a prolonged stay, there are obvi- 
ous advantages in being near the residentiail section ; but for 
the tourist with only a few days at his disposal, location in 
Washington makes far less difference than in most cities of 
similar size. A large majority of the hotels extend along the 
scant mile-and-a-half stretch separating the Capitol and the 
White House, or cluster around these two extremes ; the prin- 
cipal sights of the city are similarly distributed, and in 
almost equal proportions ; and whichever location is chosen, 
the intervening length of Pemisylvania Ave. must be traversed 
many times. The visitor who is a good pedestrian will find 
that a hotel at some midway point offers the advantage of 
being within practical walking distance of the great majority 
of points he wishes to visit. 

For further general information regarding American hotels, the 
stranger in this country is referred to Rider's New York City. 

b. Large and Expensive Hotels of the First Rank 

*New Willard. (PI. I— A2) N. W. cor. Pennsylvania Ave. and 14th 
St. (378 R.) The oldest and most widely known of the large hotels, 
and, like its predecessor, the Old Willard, much patronized by 
members of Congress. ^'ice-President Coolidge resides here. For 
description see pp. no, 149. (R. Single $3. With B. $5. Double $5. 
With B, $7. Suites $17 up.) (See restaurants, p, 8.) 

*Shoreliam, (PI. II— D4) N. E. cor. 15th and H Sts, (250 R,) For 
description : see p. 230. (R. Single $3. With B, $5, Double $5. With 
B. $7.) (See restaurants, p, 8.) 

*Washington, (PI. I — ^A2) N, E. cor, Pennsylvania Ave. and 15th St. 
(500 R. 500 B.) (R. Single with B, $5. Double with B. $8. Suites 
$20 up.) (See restaurants, p. 8.) 

Raleigh. (PI, I— B2) N. E. cor. Pennsylvania Ave. and 12th St', 
(450 R.) Patronized by Government officials and foreign diplomats. 



4 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

For description see p. io6. CR. Single $3. With B. $4. Double $4. 
With B. $5. ~ Suites $12 and up.) (See restaurants, p. 7.) 

*Wardman Park Hotel, Connecticut Ave. and Woodley Road. 
(1500 R. 1500 B.) Suburban residential hotel, overlooking' Rock Creek 
Park. Largely patronized by Congressmen, (Government Executives and 
foreign diplomats. Prices on application. 

c. Eastern Section: Capitol Grounds Vicinity 

Congress Hall. (PI. I— E4) New Jersey Ave. betw. B and C Sts. 
S. E. (225 R.) For description see p. 405. (R. Single $2.50. \\'ith 
B. $3. Double $4. With B. $5. Suites $6 up. ^Vmerican plan: Meals 
$3 per day.) 

Potomac. (PI. I— E4) X. W. cor. New Jj^-sey Ave. and C St. S. E. 
(75 R.) For description see .p. 405. (European plan: R. Single $2. 
With B. $4. Double $3. With B. $4.50. American plan: R. Single 
$4. With B. $5. Double $7. With B. $9.) (See restaurants, p. 7.) 

Georgei Washington Inn. (V\. 1 — E4) S. W. cor. New Jersev Ave. 
and C St. S. E. (100 R.)/ (R. Single $2. With B. $2.50. Double $3. 
With B. $3.50. Suites $6.) (See restaurants, p. 7.) 

DriscoU. (PI. I— E3) X. E. cor. B and ist Sts. N. W. (10:; R.) 
Faces the Capitol Grounds. (R. Single $1.50 up. With B. $4. l)oub]e 
$3.50 up. With B. $6. Suites ^. Weekly rates upon application. 
American plan: $4 up per day.) (See restaurants, p. 7.) 

New Winston, ist St. betw. Pennsylania Ave. and B St. X. W. 
(90 R.) (European plan: R. Single $2. With B. $2.50. Double $3. 
With B. $4. American plan: Two meals $1.25; Three meals $2 per day 
in addition to price of room.) 

Capitol Park. (PI. I— E2) Xorth Capitol and E Sts. (150 R.) 
Conveniently near the Union Station. (R. Single $2.50. With B. S3. 
Double S4. With B. $5. With twin beds $6.) 

Continental. (PI. I— E2) Xorth Capitol St. cor F St. (175 K.) 
Faces on Union Station Plaza (R. Single $2. With B. $3. Double $3. 
With B. $5.) (See restaurants, p. 7.) 

d. Central Section: Pennsylvania Avenue 

National. (PI. I— C3) X. E. cor. Pennsylvania Ave. and 6th St. 

(300 R.) An historic old house that has entertained many famous 

people. For liistory see p. 100. (R. Single $2. With B. $3. Double 
$3. With B. $5. Suites $6 up.) (See restaurants, p. 7.) 

St. James. (PI. I— C3) S. E. cor. Pennsylvania Ave. and 6th St. 
(126 R.) For description see p. 100. (R. Single $1.50 up. With B. 
$4. Double $4. With B. $5. Suites $5 to $7.) (See restaurants, p. 7.) 

Howard. S. W. cor. Pennsylvania Ave. and 6th St. Rates upon 
application. 

Metropolitan. (PI. I— C3) 615 Pennsylvania Ave. (175 R.) For 
description see p. 100. (R. Single $1.50 up. Witli B. $3. J^ouble $3. 
With B. $6.) 

Harrington. (PI. I— B2) S. E. cor. nth and E Sts. (R. Single 
$2.50. Witli B. $3.50. Double $4. With B. $5. With twin beds $6.) 
(See restaurants, p. 8.) 

Sterling. (PI. I— A2) S. E. cor. 13th and E Sts. (100 R.) (R. 
Single $2. With B. $3. Double S3. With B. $4.) (See restaurants, 

p. 8.) 



HOTELS AND OTHER ACCOMMODATIONS 5 

New Ebbitt. (PI. I—A2) S. E. cor. 14th tand F Sts. (p. 149-) 
(R. Single $2. With B. $3.50. R. Double $4. With B. $6.) (See 
restaurants p. 8.) 

Occidental. (PI, I — A2) 141 1 Peunsylvauia Ave. (R. Single $2 up. 
With B. $3 up. 

e. Residential Section 

Lafayette. (PI. II— C3) S. E. cor. 16th and I Sts. (200 R. 200 B.) 
(R. Single with B. $4 and $5. Double with B. $6 to $8.) (See res- 
taurants p. 8.) 

Bellevtie. (PI. II— D3) N. E. cor. 15th and I Sts. (102 R.) 
(R. Single $2. With B. $3. Double $3. With B. $5.) 

Franklin Square. (PI. II— D3) N. W. cor. 14th and K Sts. (150 R.) 
(R. Single $2.50. With B. $3- Double $3.50. With B. $5. Suites 
$14.00.) (See restaurants p. 8.) 

New Hamilton. N. E. cor. 14th and K Sts. (310 R. 310 B.) A 
thoroughly modern eleven-story hotel overlooking Franklin Sq., and 
now nearing completion. Terms on application. 

Portland. (PI. II— D3) Vermont Ave., 14th and M Sts. (250 R.) 
Select family hotel patronized by Congressmen. (p. 220.) (R. Single 
with B. $4. Doublei with B. $6. Monthly rates upon application.) (See 
restaurants p. 9.) 

Lee House. 15th and L Sts. (250 R. 250 B.) A new hotel, 
opened in May, 1922. (Rates from $3.50 per day up.) (See 
restaurants p. 9.) 

Everett. 1730 H St. (38 R.) (R. Single $2. Double $1 to $5.) 

Bancroft. (PL II— C3) i8th and H Sts. (60 R.) Quiet family 
hotel; moderate prices (R. Single, $1.50. With B., $2.50 up. R. Double, 
$3.50. With B., $4.50 uip. American plan: $22.50 per week. With B., 
$25. For two persons, $40 per week, or $45 with B.) 

Powhatan. (PI. II— C4) N. E. cor. i8th St. and Pennsylvania Ave. 
(300 R.) Large modern hotel recently enlarged. (R. Single, $3. With 
B., $4. R. Double, $4. With B., $5.) 

Richmond (PL II— C4), 17th and H Sts. (90 R.) Small familv 
hotel. (R. Single, $2.50. With B., $3.50. R. Double, $4.50. With 
B., $5.50.) I (See restaurants p. 9.) 

Grafton, (PL II — C2), Connecticut Ave. and De Sales St. American 
plan. Prices on application. 

Logan, 13th St. and Iowa Circle. (R. Single, $1.50. R. Double, 
with B. $3. up.) 

Gordon, (PL II— C3), i6th and I Sts. (R. Single, $3. With B., $4- 
Other rates on application.) 

f. Furnished Rooms 

Furnished rooms are advertised in the daily papers and 
by signs in windows. The prices vary considerably in diff- 
erent sections of the city, being naturally much cheaper in 
the older sections around Judiciary Square (p. 137), or S. 
of Pennsylvania Ave. 'beyond 17th St., than in the fashionable 
residential section N. of Lafayette Square, where signs are 
rarely displayed. Owing to the great exodus of Government 
employees since the close of the war, there is at present [1922] 
an abundance oif vacant rooms, and on some of the quiet old 
blocks below 6th St., every third or fourth house has rooms 
to rent. In this neighborhood it is possible to get a large 
sunny room with steam heat for $6 to $8 a week. 



6 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

g. Suites and Furnished Apartments 
Visitors expecting to make a somewhat extended stay in 
the city may find it advantageous to take a furnished apart- 
ment. In Washington, however, apartment houses, especially 
of the moderate-priced sort^ are not plentiful; and even in 
the fashionable residential section there is likely to be small 
range of choice, and small advantage in cost over a suite of 
rooms in a residential hotel. A significant evidence of the 
lack of available apartments or private houses at a reasonable 
rental is the fact that today no less than 193 members of 
Congress find it advantageous to live in hotels, 

h. Boarding Houses 

Good board can be obtained in Washington at a cost rang- 
ing from $12 to $20 a week. A list of boarding houses may 
be obtained from the Young Women's Christian Association 
and from the daily papers. In choosing location, the N. W. 
section of the city (i. e., N. of the Mall, and W. of North 
Capitol St.), is preferable from the standpoint of accessibility. 
Before engaging hoard a clear- understanding should be reached 
as to what is included. Light, heat and service, and the use 
of the bath are usually given. 

III. Restaurants and Tea Rooms 

Apart from the big hotels, restaurant life in Washington 
is rather disappointing to the cosmopoHtan visitor. As a 
social factor there seems to be no place in the Washingtonian 
scheme of life for the large show restaurant offering music, 
dancing and cabaret entertainment. The small foreign table 
d'hote restaurant, French, Italian or Spanish, which in London 
or New York is encountered in various unexpected nooks 
and corners, is almost equally unknown here. The vast 
increase in the city's population during the temporary activi- 
ties of the World War, did produce a demand for a greater 
number of eating houses; but these were for the most part 
of the dairy-kitchen and cafeteria type, clean, economical and 
expeditious. The only notable change wrought by war con- 
ditions is an influx of small tea rooms, neat, quiet and artis- 
tically furnished, many of which serve luncheon and dinner. 
Most of these, however, are in the Lafayette Square neigh- 
borhood. The sightseer, with limited time, and therefore 
obliged to eat in whatever section he chances to be. must often 
choose between a hotel and a Greek restaurant of the dairy- 
kitchen type. 



RESTAURANTS AND TEA ROOMS 7 

In .the following list the tea rooms have been grouped 
separately ; but no attempt has been made to divide the hotel 
and independent restaurants otherwise than geographicall}-. 

a. Capitol Grounds Section 

Public Restaurant in Capitol. A restaurant open to 
the general public in the basement of the House Wing, 
Room No. 31. A la carte. ♦'Congressional Library Res- 
taurant. Situated in the attic story (reached by elevator). 
A la carte; reasonable prices. Hotel Potomac. (PI. I — E4) 
New Jersey Ave. and C St., S. E. A la carte and table 
d'hote: breakfast, 75c.; dinner, $1. George Washington 
Inn. (PI. I— E4) New Jersey Ave. and C St., S. E.. A la 
carte; also table d'hote dinner. $1. Colonial Dining Room. 
Congress Hall. (PL I— E4) New Jersey Ave., betw. Band 
C Sts., S. E. A la carte and t. d'h : breakfast, $1 ; lunch, $1 ; 
dinner, $1.25. American Dining Room (capacity 250 guests) ; 
European Dining Room. Hotel DriscoU. (PI. I — E3) 
N. E. cor. B and ist Sts. A la carte; also table d'hote din- 
ner, $1.25. Nev^ Winston, ist St., near B ,St. Club Break- 
fast, 25c. to 75c. ; luncheon, 75c. ; dinner, 75c. and $1 : also 
a la carte. Capitol Park Hotel. (PI. I— E2) North Capitol 
and E Sts. A la carte. Dining Room and Grill. Prices moder- 
ate. Hotel Continental. (PI. I — E2) cor. North Capitol and 
F Sts. T., d'h dinner, $1 ; club breakfast, 35c. to 65c. Dining 
Room and Cafe. Grace Dodge Hotel. (PI. I— E2) E St., 
near North Capitol St. A la carte (men not received above 
entrance floor). Dining Room, Tea House and Roof 
Garden. 

b. Central Section: Pennsylvania Avenue 
Metropolitan Hotel. (PI. I — C3) Pennsylvania Ave., 
betw. 6th and 7th Sts. A la carte only. National Hotel. 
(PI. I — C3) Pennsylvania Ave. and 6th St. A la carte 
only. St. James Hotel. (PI. I— C3) S. E. cor. Pennsyl- 
vania Ave. and 6th St. A la carte; also club break- 
fast at popular prices, and t. d'h. dinner. Harvey's. 
S. E. cor. Pennsylvania Ave. and nth St. (p. 103). No longer 
in the social centre, yet still the oldest and best known of 
Washington's fe^v restaurants. Dining Room.s, Grill, Ban- 
quet Hall, Private Rooms, etc. Raleigh Hotel. (PI. I— B2) 
N. E. cor. Pennsylvania Ave. and 12th St. A la carte only. 
Banquets and private dinner parties a specialty. Besides large 
dining room on main floor, there is a spacious Banquet 
Hall, a Rathskeller and Grill Room in the basement, and 



8 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

a Roof Garden (open in summer). Sterling Hotel. (PI. I— Aj) 
S. E. cor. 13th and E, Sts. A la carte; also Fried Chicken 
Dinner, 12 noon to 9 p. m.. $1. Harrington Hotel. (PI. I — B2) 
S. E, cor. nth and E Sts. Club breakfasts, 6oc. to $1 ; T. d'h. 
luncheon, 75c.; dinner, $1.25; also a la carte. New Ebbitt. 
(PL I— A2) S. E. cor. 14th and F Sts. A la carte only; 
Grill Room in basement, with separate entrance from 14th 
St. New Willard. (PI. I— A2). A la carte only. Most 
noted hotel in Washington for public and private dinners, 
official banquets, etc. The famous dinners of the Gridiron 
Club are given here. There is a recently opened Cofeee 
House in basement. 

Washington Hotel. (PI. I— A2), Pennsylvania Ave. 
and 15th St. A la carte; also table dTiote in Grill: Break- 
fast 75c.; luncheon, $1.00; dinner, $1.50. Besides the main 
dining room, on S. side of lobby, there is a Spanish Garden 
on E. side; also on ground floor the Salon des Nations, 
in gold and blue, with private boxes along the walls for 
diners, leaving the center free for dancing. The wall panels 
contain murals with typical scenes from the Allied coun- 
tries, and from three of the neutrals, Holland, Spain and 
Switzerland. There are also Grill or Buffet and a Soda 
Room. Upon the enclosed roof are a Ball and Conven- 
tion Room, with seating capacity of 400; also a Sun Parlor, 
opening upon an unenclosed roof which in summer is also 
used for dancing and dining. Wallis Restaurant, 12th St. 
betw. F and G Sts.; also branch on 12th St., opposite Ral- 
eigh Hotel. Moderate prices. No smoking. New England 
Restaurant, 9th St. near F St. Luncheon, 60c.; dinner, Si.oo; 
also a la carte. Sea food a specialty. 

c. Residential Section 

*Rausher's. Connecticut Ave. at S. W. cor. of L St. 
The Delmonico of Washington. Favorite resort for leading 
social events, wedding breakfasts, coming-out parties, 
college reunions, etc. *Shoreham Hotel. (Pl. II — D4) N. W. 
cor. of 15th and H Sts. One of the leading hotel restaurants 
of Washington. Man}'^ select private dinners, club ban- 
quets, etc., are given here. A la carte only. Grill in 
basement. *Lorraine. 1407 H St. Small but select. Fre- 
quented by cosmopolitan visitors, members of legation 
staffs, etc. A la carte only: excellent cuisine. Lafayette 
Hotel. (P,l. U—C^) N. E. cor. of i6th and I Sts. T. d'h. 
luncheon. $1.00; table d'hote dinner. $1.50; also a la carte. 
Franklin Square Hotel. (F\. II— D3) N. W. cor. 14th and K 



RESTAURA,NTS AND TEA ROOMS ■> 

Sts. Club breakfast, 50c., 75c. and $1 ; t. d'h. luncheon, 75c ; t. d'h. 
dinner, $1.50; also a la carte. Portland Hotel. (PI. II— D3) 
Hth and Vermont Ave. Club breakfast, 35c., 50c. and 65c.; 
t. d'h. lundheon, 75. ; t. d'h. dinner, $1 ; also a la carte. 
Everett Hotel. 1730 H St. T. d^h. dinner, $1 ; also a 
la carte. Hotel Powhatan. (PI. II — C4) A la carte. Roof 
Garden in summer, open from 5 p. m. until midnight, with 
music and dancing. Richmond Hotel. (F\. II — C4) 17th 
and H Sts. T. d'h. luncheon, 50c.; t. d'h. dinner, $1. Sunset 
Inn. 1401 Massachusetts Ave. Cluib breakfast, 25c. and 50c. ; 
t. d'h. dinner, 70c. ; Sunda3's, 85c. Lee House. 15th and L Sts. 
A la Carte. Pompeiian Dining-Room. 

d. Tea Rooms and Cafeterias 

Most Washington tea rooms of the better class are within 
a shoirt radius of Lafayette Square, and constitute a recent 
innovation, few of them antedating the World War. Some 
are open only for luncheon and tea ; others serve dinner at 
reasonable prices. 

*LotO'S Lantern. 733 17th St. A la carte luncheon, afternoon tea. 
Curios for sale. ^Copper Bowl. 520 nth St. Cafeteria luncheon; tea. 
4 to 6 p. m. Cinderella Tea Garden. 615 14th St. A la carte luncheon ; 
t. d'h., 5.30 to 8 p. m., $1.35. The Wisteria. 1427 F St. Club breakfast, 
35c. and 50c.; dinner. 60c. Tintern Tea Room. 730 17th St. A la carte; 
club luncheon 45c. Brazilian Coffee House. 526 nth St. A la carte; 
t. d'h. dinner, 65c. Peter and Paul Tea Room. Connecticut Ave., \V. 
side, above L St. A la carte; t. d'h. dinner, $1. Brown Tea Pot, 
1147 Connecticut Ave. Noah'S Ark, 924 17th St. T. d'h. dinner, $1; 
also a la carte. Gentlewomen's Tea Room. (Conducted by the 
Women's Industrial Exchange.) 1624 H. St. Ye Coffee Shoppe. 1710 I 
St. T. d'h. dinner, $1. Greenwich Inn. 1653 Pennsylvania Ave. A la 
carte; also t. d'h. dinner, $1.00. Danish Rose Tea Room. 1622 H St. 
A la carte; t. d'h. dinner, $1.25. Specialty. Danish pastry. Brown 
Betty Tea Room. 734 15th St. Blue Mill Tea Room. 919 15th St. 
Childs' Restaurant, 1423 Pennsylvania Ave. One of the well known 
. national chain of restaurants by this name, pioneers of the dairy 
lunch type. Bellevue Farms Lunch. 1334 G St. T. d'h. dinner and 
a la carte, 60c. United Cafeteria. 1008-10 F St. Self service. Martha 
Washington Inn. N. E. cor. Connecticut Ave. and Q St. House of 
the White Peacock. 810 17th St. Flag and Drum Inn. 822 Con- 
necticut Ave. Blossom Inn (Cafeteria). 1315 New York Ave. Allies 
Inn (Cafeteria). G St., W. of 17th St. Old Museum Lunch Room. 
In Arts and Industries Building. Reasonable prices. A great con- 
venience to sightseers in that locality. 



10 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

IV. Urban Travel 
a. Surface Car Lines 

The Washington trolley lines, constituting the chief mode 
of urban transport, are practically monopolized by two cor- 
porations : I. The V/ashington Railway and Electric Co.; 2. 
The Capital Traction Co. The majority of the lines conducted 
by these companies operate within the District limits ; a few 
of these extend over the boundary line into Maryland. All 
the other lines operating within the city limits are through 
lines to points either in Maryland or Virginia. 

Each of the two companies operating within the District 
limits gives free transfers to all its intersecting lines, but not 
to the lines of the rival company. 

The uniform rate on all lines within the District, includ- 
ing first and second transfers, is eight cents. On all lines 
passengers may purchase metallic tokens at the rate of six 
tokens for 40 cents. These tokens are interchangeable on all 
lines of both companies within the District limits. 

A few lines of these companies extend beyond the Dis- 
trict limits into the State of Maryland: e. g. the lines to 
Chevy Chase and to Glen Echo Park. In the case of these 
lines an extra fare is charged beyond the District line and 
must be paid in cash, the tokens being valid only within the 
District. 

CAPITAL TRACTION COMPANY 

This company operates the following Lines : 
I, Pennsylvania Avenue Lines. Four separate routes, 
all covering the same section of Pennsylvania Ave., from the 
Peace Monument to 19th St. N. W. : 

Line A: operates between 36th and M Sts. N. W. 
(Georgetown) and 17th St. and Pennsylvania Ave. S. E. 
Route : east on M St. to Pennsylvania Ave., thence southeast 
on Pennsylvania Ave. to 15th St., south on 15th St. to Penn- 
sylvania Ave., thence again southeast on Pennsylvania Ave. 
to Peace Monument, thence south on ist St. to B St. South, 
east on B St. to Pennsylvania Ave., southeast on Pennsylvania 
Ave. to 17th St. S. E. Car signs: ea^tbound, ''17TH AND 
PA. AVE. S. E."; westbound, "GEORGETOWN." 

Passing: Washington's Headquarters, Washington Circle and Statue. 
Department of Commerce, U. S. Railroad Administration, Interstate 
Commerce Commission, State, Army and Navy Euildin^. White House, 
Treasury Building, Lafayette Squares leading hotels and theatres, 
Municipal Building, Post Office Department. Centre Market, Botanic 
Gardens, Capitol, Library of Congress, Congressional Cemetery. 



URBAN TRAVEL n 

Line B: operates between 36th and M Sts. N. W. and 
8th and F Sts. N. E. Route: same as Line A to Peace 
Monument, thence north on ist St. to C St., east on C St. 
to Delaware Ave., southeast on Delaware Ave. to Union Sta- 
tion Plaza, east trom Plaza on California St. to 2d St. N. K., 
north on 2d St. to F St., east on F St. to 8th St. Car signs : 
easfbound, "8TH AND F STS. N. E." ; westbound, 
"GEORGETOWN." 

Passing-: Same points of interest as Line A; also Senate Office 
Building, Columbus Monument and Union Station. 

Line C: operates between Potomac Park (i8th St. and 
Virginia Ave.) and 8th and F Sts. N. E. Route: from Poto- 
mac Park terminal, north on 19th St. to Pennsylvania Ave., 
thence southeast on Pennsylvania Ave. to Peace Monument, 
thence over same streets as Line B to F and 8th Sts. N. E. 
Car signs : castbound, "8TH AND F STS. N. E." ; zvestbound, 
"POTOMAC PARK." 

Passing: Same points of interest as Line B. 

Line D: operates between 26th and Pennsylvania Ave. 
N. W., and 17th St. and Pennsylvania Ave. N. E. Route: 
south on 26th St. to F St., west on F St. to 17th St., north on 
17th St. to Pennsylvania Ave., thence over same streets as 
Line A. Car signs: easfbound, "17TH AND PA. AVE. 
S. E." ; zi'estbound, "26TH AND PA. A\'E. N. W." 

Passing Department of Interior Building and same points of interest 
as Line A. 

2. Fourteenth Street Lines. Five separate routes, 
three of which cover the Pennsylvania Ave. section from 
15th St. to the Peace Monument. 

Line A: operates between 3300 14th St. (Park Road) and 
36th and M Sts. N. W. (Georgetown). Route: south on 14th 
St. to New York Ave., south weston New York Ave. to 15th 
St., thence west on Pennsylvania Ave. to Rock Creek Bridge 
and via M St. to 36th St. terminal. Car signs : southbound, 
"GEORGETOWN"; northbound, "PARK ROAD." 

Passing: Thomas Circle, Franklin Sq., Treasury Department, White 
House, Lafayette Sq. and points of interest mentioned above under 
Pcuusylvania Ave. Line A. 

Line B : operates between Park Road and 26th and G Sts. 
N.W. Route: same as Line A to Pennsylvania Ave. and 17th 
St. N. W., at which point cars run west on G St. to 26th St. 
Car signs: southbound, "26TH AND G iST." ; northbound. 
"PARK ROAD." 

Passing: Same points of interest as Line A to 17th St.; also 
Department of Labor and Y. M. C. A. 



12 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Line C: operates between 4700 14th St. N. W. (Decatur 
St) and Union Station. Route: south on 14th St. to New 
York Ave., thence west on New York Ave. to 15th St., south 
on 15th St. to Pennsylvania Ave., southeast on Pennsylvania 
Ave. to the Peace Monument, north on ist St. to C St., east 
on C St. to Delaware Ave., thence southeast on Delaware 
Ave. to Union Station, Car signs: southbound. "UNION 
STATION"; northbound, "DECATUR." 

Passing: Thomas Circle, Franklin Square, Treasury Buildirg, W'il- 
lard's Hotel, Municipal Birilding, Post Office Department, Hotel Raleigh, 
Centre Market, Botanic Gardens, Capitol (Jrounds, City Post Office and 
Columbus Statue. 

Line D: operates between 5500 14th St. N. W. (Colo- 
rado Ave.) and Navy Yard, Route: same as Line A to 
Peace Monument, thence south on ist iSt. to B St. South, 
east on B St. to Pennsylvania Ave., southeast on Pennsylvania 
Ave, to 8th St., south on 8th St. to Navy Yard Gate. Car 
signs: southbound, "NAVY YARD"; northbound, "14TH 
AND COLORADO A\'E." 

Passing: Same points of interest as Line C to Peace' Monument; 
also Garfield Monument, Capitol, House Office Building, Library of 
Congress and Marine Barracks. 

Line E: operates between Takoma Park (Laurel and 
Aspen Sts.) and Navy Yard. Route: south on 3d St. to Ken- 
nedy St., west on Kennedy St. to 14th St., then south on 14th 
St. and over same route as Line D to Navv Yard. Car signs : 
southbound, "NAVY YARD"; northbound. "TAKOMA 
PARK." 

Passing: Same points of interest as Line D. 

3. Chevy Chase Lines: Two routes covering same section 
from Chevy Chase Lake to 14th and U Sts. 

Line A: operates between Chevy Chase Lake. Md., and 
Potomac Park (i8th St. and Virginia Ave.), Route: south- 
east on Connecticut Ave. to Calvert St., east on Calvert St. 
to i8th St., south on i8th St. to U ,St., east on U St. to 
14th St., south on 14th St, to New York Ave., southwest on 
New York Ave. to 15th St., west on Pennsylvania Ave. to 
19th St., south on 19th St. to Potomac Park; returning over 
i8th St. to F St., east on F St. to 17th St., and north on 17th 
St„ rejoining the route above given. Car signs: southbound, 
"POTOMAC PARK"; northbound, "CHE\'Y CHASE 
LAKE." 

Passing: Chevy Chase Circle, Bureau of Standards, Carnegie Insti- 
tution, Cleveland Park, Zoological Park. Thomas Circle, Franklin Square, 



URBAN TRA\'EL 13 

Treasury Building, White House, State, War and Navy Building, De- 
partment of Commerce, Interstate Commerce Commission, Department 
of the Interior and new Navy Building. 

Line B: operates -between Chevy Chase Lake, Md., and 
7th St. wharves (some of the northbound cars stop at Rock 
Creek Bridge). Route: same as line A to U and 14th 
Sts., thence east on U St. to Florida Ave., southeast on Flor- 
ida Ave. to 7th St., south on 7th St. to Water St., south on 
Water St. to the wharves. Car signs : southbound, "7TH 
ST. WHARVES"; northbound, "CHEVY CHASE" or 
"ROCK CREEK BRIDGE." 

Passing: Bureau of Standards, Geophysical Laboratory, Zoological 
Park, Baseball Park. Public Library, Patent Office, Public Lands Office, 
Centre Market, Smithsonian Institution Grounds, Army Medical Museum, 
Old Arsenal and War College. 

4. Florida Avenue Line: operates between Stephenson 
Monument (Pennsylvania Ave. and 7th St.) and Navy Yard 
Gate. Route : north on 7th St. to T St., east on T St. to 
Florida Ave., southeast on Florida Ave. to 8th St. N. E., 
south on 8th St. to Navy Yard Gate (M St. S. E.). Car 
signs: north and eastbound, "NAVY YARD"; west and south- 
bound, "7TH AND PA. AVE. NAV." 

Passing: Public Lands Office, Patent Office, Publiq Library, Old 
Central High School, Base Ball Park, Gallaudet College and Navy Yard. 

5. New Jersey Avenue Line: operates between Rock 
Creek Bridge (20th and Calvert Sts. N. W\) and Navy Yard 
Gate (8th and M Sts. S. E.). Route: east on Calvert St. 
to i8th St., south on i8th St. to U St., east on U St. to 
Florida Ave. to New Jersey Ave., southeast on New Jersey 
Ave. to Massachusetts Ave. to Union Station, thence south- 
west on Delaware Ave. to B St. N. E., east on B St. to ist 
St., south on 1st St. to B St. S. E., east on B St. to Penn- 
sylvania Ave., southeast on Pennsylvania Ave. to 8th St., 
south on 8th St. to Navy Yard. 

Passing: Base Ball Park, Government Printing Office, City Post 
Office, Union Station, Senate Office Building, Capitol, Library of 
Congress and House Office Building. 

WASHINGTON RAILWAY AWD ELECTRIC COMPANY 
This Company operates the following Lines : 
L Mt. Pleasant Lines: Four separate routes all fol- 
lowing the same course from Alt. Pleasant to Connecticut 
Ave. and 17th St. 

Line A: operates between Park Road terminal and 14th 
St. N. E. Route : West-ward on Easit Capitol St. to ist St., 
north on ist St. to B St., west on B St. to Delaware Ave., 



14 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

north on Delaware Ave. to C St., thence west on C St. to 
New Jersey Ave., northwest on New Jersey Ave. to D St., 
west on D St. to 5th St., north on 5th St. to F St., west on 
F St. to 14th St., north on 14th St. to H St., west on H St. 
to 17th St., north on 17th St. to K St. and Connecticut Ave., 
northwest on Connecticut Ave. to California St. and Columbia 
Road, then north on Columbia Road to intersection of i6th, 
Harvard and Mt. Pleasant Sts., thence along M:t. Pleasant St. 
to terminus at Park Road and 17th St. 

Car signs: Easthound, "LINCOLN PARK"; zvesthoiind, 
"MT. PLEASANT." 

Passing: Lincoln Park, Capitol, Senate Office Building, Union 
Station, Columbus Monument, City Post Office, Old City Hall, Pension 
Office, Cosmos Club, Lafayette Square, Old St. John's Church, Decatur 
House, Dupont Circle and (corner of Columbia Road and Harvard St.) 
east entrance to Zoological Park. 

Line B: operates between Mt. Pleasant (Park Road 
terminal) and 13th and D Sts. N. E. Route: Eastbound 
cars run south from Park Road on Mt. Pleasant St. to 
Columbia Road, southwest on Columbia Road to Connecticut 
Ave., southeast on Connecticut Ave. to K and 17th Sts., 
south on 17th St. to H St., east on H St. to 14th St., south 
on 14th St. to F St., east on F St. to 5th St., north on 5th 
St. to G St., east on G St. to Massachusetts Ave., southeast 
on Massachusetts Ave. to Plaza, southeast from Plaza, on 
Massachusetts Ave., to C St. N. E., east on C St. to 13th St., 
north on 13th St. to terminal at D St. Westbound cars run 
west on D St. to Massachusetts Ave., thence on same route 
as Line A. Car signs: zvcstboiind, MT. PLEASANT"; 
eastbound, "13TH & D STS. N. E." 

Passing: Stanton Sq. and Greene statue; also same points of interest 
as Line A. 

Line C: operates between Mt. Pleasant (Park Road 
terminal) and ist and E Sts. S. E. Route: northboimd cars 
run from E St. S. E. north over ist St. to B St. N. E., west 
on B St. to Delaware Ave., north on Delaware Ave. to Union 
Station Plaza, thence northwest on Massachusetts Ave. fol- 
lowing same course as preceding lines. Car signs: northbound. 
"MT. PLEASANT"; southbound, "iST & E STS. S. E." 

Passing: House Office Building, Capitol, Library cf Congress, Senate 
Office Building; also same points of interest as preceding lines. 

Line D: operates between Mt. Pleasant (Park Road 
terminal) and Potomac Park. Route: northbound cars run 
from Virginia Ave. north on i8th St. to F St., east on F St. 
to 17th St., north on 17th St. to Connecticut Ave., thence over 



URBAN TRAVEL 15 

same course as preceding lines. South-bound cars return by 
same route to 17th St. and Pennsylvania Ave., thence west to 
19th St., south on 19th St. to Virginia Ave. and southeast 
on Virginia Ave. to terminal. Car signs : northbound, "MT. 
PLEASANT"; southbound, "POTOMAC PARK." 

Passing: New Navy Building, Department of Interior, State, War 
and Navy Building; also same points of interest as preceding Mt. 
Pleasant lines. 

2. Brookland-Cabin John Line. Route: Mrestbound 
cars run from Randolph St. south on 12th St. N. E. to 
Monroe St., east on Monroe St. to Michigan Ave., southeast 
on Michigan Ave. to North Capitol St., south on North Capi- 
tol St. to Massachusetts Ave., northwest on Massachusetts 
Ave. to G :St., west on G St. to 5th St., south on 5th St. to 
F St., west on F St. to 14th St., north on 14th St. to H St.. 
west on H St. to 17th St., north on 17th St. to Connecticut 
Ave., northwest on Connecticut Ave. to P St, west on P St. 
to 36th St., south on 36th St. to Prospect Ave. (Georgetown 
terminal), thence west over private right of way to Cabin 
John Bridge. Eastbound cars return over same route to Pros- 
pect Ave. terminal, thence east to 35th St., north on 35th St. 
to O St., east on O St. to Wisconsin Ave., thence east on Dum- 
barton St. to 28th St., north on 28th iSt. to P St., rejoining 
the same route to Brookland. Some eastbound cars cover the 
whole route ; others stop at intermediate terminals as indi- 
cated by the car signs: eastbound, "BROO'KLAND" and 
"N. CAP. & W"; ivcstbound, "GEORGETOWN," "GLEN 
ECHO/' "CABiIN JOHN" and "LITTLE FALLS RD." 

Passing: Catholic University, Trinity College^ Soldiers' Home, 
Filtration Plant, Glenwood Cemetery, Sibley Hospital, Government 
Printing Office, City Post Office, Pension Office, Patent Office, New 
Ebbitt, New Willard, Shoreham, Cosmos Club, St. John's Church, 
Decatur House, Army and Navy Club, British Embassy, Georgetown 
Hospital, Georgetown University, Palisades of the Potomac, Chesapeake 
& Ohio Canal, Glen Echo and Cabin John. 

3. Georgia Avenue-Ninth Street Lines. Four routes 
all covering the same section over Georgia Ave., 9th St., B St., 
Missouri Ave. and 4^ St. 

Line A: operates betw^een Forest Glen and Water St. 
wharves. Route : southeast from Forest Glen, passing Na- 
tional Park Seminary, Woodside and Silver Springs to 
Georgia Ave. at District Line ; thence south on Georgia Ave. 
to Florida Ave., west on Florida Ave. to 9th St., south on 
9th St. to B St.. east on B St. to 6th St. and Missouri Avp.. 
southeast on Missouri Ave. to 4J^ St., thence south to P St., 
west on P St. to Water St. terminal. Car signs : southbound, 
"WHARVES"; northbound. "FOREST GLEN." 



i6 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Passing: Walter Reed Hospital, Brightwood, Soldiers' Home, Howard 
University, Baseball Park, Public Library, Patent Office, Center Market, 
New National Museum and Army War College. 

Line B: operates over same route as Line A with 
northern terminal at Georgia and Eastern Aves. (District 
Line). Car signs: northbound, "EASTERN AVE/'; south- 
bound, "WHARVES." 

Line C: operates between Water St. wharves and 
Soldiers' Home. Route: from Soldiers' Home Gate east on 
Upshur St. to Georgia Ave., thence south over same course 
as Line A. Car signs: northbound, "SOLDIERS' HOME"; 
southbound, "WHARVES." 

Line D: operates between Takoma, Anacostia and 
Congress Heights. Route : from Takoma west on Butternut 
St. to Georgia Ave,, thence south over same course as Line A 
to 4^ St., thence south on 4^^ St. to Mary^land Ave., north- 
east on Maryland Ave. to B and Canal Sts., southeast on 
Canal St. to E St., east on E St. to 4th St. S. E., south on 
4th St. to G St., east on G St. to nth St., south on nth St. 
to Anacostia Bridge, across the bridge to Nichols Ave., and 
south on Nichols Ave. to Anacostia terminal at Talbert St. ; 
cars continue on Nichoils Ave. to Congress Heights, and 
thence west on Portland St. to Steel Plant. Car signs : north- 
bound, "TAKOMA"; southbound, "ANACOSTIA," "CON- 
GRESS HEIGHTS" or "STEEL PLANT." 

Passing: Same points of interest as Line A to 4>^ St.; also Pro- 
vidence Hospital, Garfield Park, Marine Barracks, Navy Yard and St. 
Elizal>eth Hospital for Insane. 

4. Fourth Street Line: operates between Steamboat 
wharves (M and Water Sts. S. W.) and W St. and Georgia 
Ave. N. W. Route: northwest on Water St. to nth St., 
north on nth St. to Virginia Ave., northwest on Virginia 
Ave. to B St., west on B St. to 14th St., north on 14th St. 
to G.St. N. W., east on G St. to 5th St., north on 5th St. 
to New York Ave., northeast on New York Ave. to 4th St., 
north on 4th St. to Florida Ave., east on Florida Ave. to 
3d St, north on 3d St. to Elm St., west on Elm St. to 4th St., 
north on 4th St. to W St., west on W St. to Georgia Ave. 
Car signs: northbound, 'LEDROIT PARK"; southbound, 
"WHARVES." 

Passing: Bureau of Engraving and Printing, Agricultural Depart- 
ment Bunlding, Washington Monument, Municipal Building. Hotel 
Willard, Patent Office. Pension Office, St. Mary's- R. C. Church, Con- 
vention Hall, Freednien's Hospital and Howard University. 

5. Monroe-Eleventh Street Lines. Three routes all 
covering same section of nth St. from Monroe St. to F St. 



URBAN TRAVEL 17 

Line A: oiperates between Monroe St. N. VV. and 
14th and Water Sts. S. W. Route : south from Monroe St. 
terminal on nth St. to E St., west on E. St. to 14th St., south 
on 14th St. to Water St. Car signs: northbound, "iiTH ST. 
N.W."; southbound, "14TH & WATER" or "BUREAU 
ENGRAVING." 

Passing: New Central High School, Garfield Hospital, Agricultural 
Department, Washington Monument and Bureau of Engraving and 
Printing. 

Line B: operates between Monroe St. terminal and 
9th and F Sts. N. W. Route : same as Line A to F St., thence 
east on F St. to gth St. terminal. Car signs : northbound, 
"iiTH ST. N.W."; southbound, "9TH & F ST." 

Line C: operates between Monroe St. terminal and 
4^ St. and Missouri Ave. 

6. Eleventh Street Line: operates between nth 
and Monroe Sts. N. W. and Congress Heights. Route : 
Southbound cars run from Monroe St. terminal south on 
nth St. to F St., east on F St. to 9th St., south on 9th St. 
to B St. S. W., east on B St. to 6th St., south on 6th St. 
to Missouri Ave., southeast on Missouri Ave. to 4^ St. 
Car signs: northbound, "iiTH ST. N. W." ; southbound, 
"4^ & MO. AVE." 

Passing: Central High School, Garfield Hospital, Patent Office, 
Center Market, National Museum, and Public Gardens. 

7. Columbia Line: operates between 15th St. and New 
York Ave. N. W, and 15th and H Sts. N.E. and District 
Line (near 63d, St. and Eastern Ave.). Route: from 15th St. 
terminal, cars run northeast on New York Ave. to Mt. Vernon 
Sq., thence southeast on 'Massachusetts Ave. to 4th and H Sts., 
thence east on H St. to District Line at 15th Sit. N. E. ; thence 
east on Benning Road, crossing the Anacostia River to Kenil- 
worth Ave., and north on Kenilworth Ave. to Deane Ave. 
At this point some cars continue N. to Kenilworth ; others 
diverge E. on Deane Ave. to District Line and station of 
Chesapeake Beach R. R. Car signs : westbound, "TREAS- 
URY" ; eastbound, "15TH & H, N. E.," "KENILWORTH," 
or "DISTRICT LINE." 

Passing: Masonic Temple, Public Librar)-, Government Printing 
Office, Benning and Chesapeake Junction. 

8. Bladenisburg Line: operates between 15th and H 
Sts. and Berwyn, Md. Route: from H and 15th Sts. N. E., 
along the historic Bladensburg Coach Road to Riverdale and 
Berw5'n. Car signs: northbound, "EASTERN AVE. & 



i8 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

BLAD'ENSBURG RD.," "BERWYN," or "RIVERDALE" ; 
southbound, "15TH & H STS. N. E." 

Passing: Mt. Olivet Cemetery, National Training School for Boys, 
Bladensburg Duelling Grounds and old villages of Bladensburg and 
Riverdale. 

9. Maryland Line: operates between 15th and G Sts. 
N. W. and District Line, Riverdale, Berwyn and Laurel, 
Md. Route: from terminus at 15th and G Sts., east on G 
St. to 5th St., thence north on 5th St. to L St. and Now 
York Ave., northeast on New York Ave. to ist St. N. E, 
and Eckington Place, north on Eckington Place to R St., east 
on R St. to 3d St.. north on 3d St. to T St., east on T St. 
to 4th St., north on 4th St. to W St. and Rhode Island Ave., 
thence northeast on Rhode Island Ave. to District Line and 
over private tracks to Mt. Ranier, Hyattsvile, Riverdale, 
Berwvn and Laurel. Car signs: westbound, "TREASURY"; 
eastb'ound, "AIT. RANIER," "RIVERDALE," "BERWYN" 
or "LAUREL." 

Passing: Patent Office, Pension Office, Convention Hall, Mt Ranier, 
Lord Baltimore Mansion, Maryland Agricultural College and Normal 
Institute. 

10. Georgetown - Tenle5^own - Rockville Lines. Two 

routes, both of which traverse the same section of Wisconsin 
Ave. to junction with Massachusetts Ave. 

Line A: operates between Wisconsin Ave. and M St., 
Georgetown and Rockville, Md. Route : northward on Wis- 
consin Ave. to District Line and beyond, passing through 
Tenlevtown and Somierset. Car signs : northbound, "SOM- 
ERSET" or "ROCKVILLE"; southbound, "GEORGE- 
TOWN." 

Passing: Naval Observatory, National Domestic Science School, 
Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul, Bureau of Standards, Somerset, 
Edgemoor and Alta Vista. 

Line B: operates between M St., Georgetown and 
Massachusetts Ave. at District Line. Route: north on Wis- 
consin Ave. to McComb St.. west on McComb St. to Massa- 
chusetts Ave., thence northwest on Massachusetts Ave. to Dis- 
trict Line. Car signs : northbound, "AMERICAN UNIVER- 
SITY," and "WESTERN AVE."; southbound, "GEORGE- 
TOWN." 

Passing: Naval Observatory, Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul 
and American University. 



URBAN TRAVEL 19 

WASHINGTON AND OLD DOMINION RAILWAY 
This company operates two lines as follows : 

1. BluemoFxt Division: operates between Georgetown 
terminal at 36th and M Sts., and Bluemont, Va. Route : via 
Aqueduct Bridge, Rosslyn, Va., Bluemont Junction, Falls 
Church, Leesburg and intermediate stations. 

2. Great Falls Division: operates between Georgetown 
terminal and Great Falls of the Potomac. Route: via Aque- 
duct Bridge, Rosslyn, Va., Cherrydale, McLean and interme- 
diate stations. 

WASHINGTON-VIRGIN/ A RAILWAY 
This company operates two lines as follows : 

1. Mount Vernon Division: operates between Washington 
terminal at Pennsylvania Ave. and 12th St., and Mount Ver- 
non terminal opposite North Gate Lodge (p. 487). Route: 
from starting point on D St., S. on 12th St. to C St. ; thence 
W. on C St. to Ohio Ave., S. W. on Ohio Ave. to 14th St. 
S. on 14th St. to Potomac Park; thence S. W. through 
Potomac Park to Highway Bridge (crossing the Potomac 
River), reaching Arlington Junction, Va., Four Mile Run, 
Hume, Riverside and Mount Vernon. 

2. Falls Church Division, Branch A: operates between 
Pennsylvania Ave. terminal at 12th and D Sts. and Fairfax, 
Va, Route : same as Mount Vernon Division to Arlington 
Junction; thence through Hatfield, Columbia, Nauck, Alex- 
andria County Court House, Clarendon, Vienna, Oakton and 
intermediate stations. 

Branch B: operates between Rosslyn, Va. (via Long 
Bridge from Georgetown), and Fairfax. Route: via Arling- 
ton, Fort Myer, Radio and Hatfield, thence same as branch A. 

WASHINGTON, BALTIMORE AND ANNAPOLIS ELECTRIC 
RAILROAD 

This company operates two lines as follows : 
I. Baltimore branch: operates express trains every half 
hour between Washington terminal at New York Ave. and 
14th St. and Baltimore terminal at 103 North Liberty St., 
cor. Marion St. and Park Ave. Running time 85 min. Free 
transfers to passengers arriving in Washington to all lines of 
the Washington Railway and Electric Companies. 



20 RIDER'S WASHIXGTOX 

2. Annapolis Branch: operates hourly trains between 
Washington terminal at 14th St. and New York Ave., and 
Annapolis terminal, opposite Naval Academy Gate. 

b. Taxicabs 

Ta.x'icahs are to be found at the Union Station and at all 
the large hotels and public cab stands throughout the city. 
They can be ordered by telephone from any point. The two 
largest taxicab companies are the Federal Taxicab Co. (office, 
212 13th St. N. W. ; telephone number, Main 8000) and Ter- 
minal Taxicab Co., Inc. (office, 1231 20th St. N. W. ; telephone 
number, North 1212). At the stations and hotels the taxicabs 
are under the direction of a *'starter" who may be consulted 
concerning the amount of fare. A table of rates is posted in 
each taxicab, and the fare can be roughh- computed before- 
hand by reckoning ten blocks to a mile. 

Taxicab Rates. For the fir?t half mile or any fraction thereof, 50c.; 
each additional quarter mile. loc. Articles of 'luggage, suit cases, 
steamer trunks, etc., loc. each. Several taxicab companies advertise a 
schedule lower than the legal rates. For example, the Brown and 
White Cab Co. (Main 430) charges 30c. for fir?t one-third mile, ana 
IOC for each additional one-third mile. 

c. Motor Bus Lines 

The establishment of urban omnibus lines by the Wash- 
ington Rapid Transit Co. (office, 14th and Buchanan Sts.) is 
a recent innovation, and has acquired a prompt popularity 
because these busses form a connecting link between the shop- 
ping centre and certain portions of the residential district le.ss 
readily accessible by the car lines. Visitors will find that by 
taking these busses from Pennsylvania Ave., between 8th and 
I2th Sts., they will save considerable time in reaching points 
on i6th St. above Scott Circle, the Scottish Rites Temple, 
Meridian Park, the Harvard St. entrance to the Zoological 
Park. etc. The fare is 8c., payable on entry. Four routes are 
in operation (March, 1922), and others are projected. 

I. Pennsylvania Ave.-Buchanan St. Line. Route: 
from Market Space terminal (Pennsylvania Ave. and 8th St.) 
westward on Pennsylvania Ave. to 12th St., north on 12th St. 
to Massachusetts Ave., northwest on Massachusetts Ave. to 
i6th St.. north on i6th St. to Buchanan St., east on Buchanan 
St. to terminal at 14th St. 

Passing: Post Oflice Department. Raleigh Hotel, Scott Circle. Car- 
negie Institution, French Embassy, Congressional Club, Meridian Park, 
Jeanne d'.Vrc Statue and Piney P>ranch Bridge. 



URBAN TRAVEL 21 

2. Pennsylvania Ave.-Petworth Line. Route: frooi 
Market Space terminal (Pennsylvania Ave. and 8th St.) over 
same course as Line i to Harvard St., thence east on Harvard 
St. to 13th St., north on 13th St. to Park Road and New 
Hampshire Ave., thence northeast on New Hampshire Ave. 
to terminal at Grant Circle, Petworth. 

Passing same points of interest as Line i. 

3. Potomac Park-Buchanan St. Line. Route: from 
terminal at Navy Department Building eastward on B St. to 
17th St., north on 17th St. to H St., east on H St. to i6th St., 
N. on i6th St. to Buchanan St., E. to 14th St. terminal. 

Passing: Pan-American Union, Continental Memorial Hall, Ameri- 
can Red Cross, Corcoran Gallery, State, Army and Navy Building, 
Court of Claims, Decatur House, Lafayette Sq., St. John's Church, 
Russian Embassy, Scott Circle ;•■ also same points of interest as Line i. 

4. Potomac Park-Petworth Line. Route: from ter- 
minal at Navy Department Building eastward on B St. and 
over same course as Line 3 to Harvard St., thence east on 
Harvard St. to 13th St., north on 13th St. to Park Road and 
New Hampshire Ave., thence northeast on New Hampshire 
Ave. to terminal at Grant Circle, Petworth ; returning over 
New Hampshire Ave., 13th St. and west on Columbia Road 
to i6th St., thence over same route as above given. 

Passing same lines of interest as Line 3. 

SUBURBAN MOTOR-BUS LINES 

1. Washington - Alexandria Line. These omnibuses 
start from S. E. coir. of 12th and D Sts., and run on a ten 
minute headway throughout the day. Fare, 15c. 

2. Washington - Baltimore - Annapolis Line. These 
omnibuses start from Pennsylvania Ave. and 8th St. (Market 
Space), running some 20 miles into Maryland along the Balti- 
more and Annapolis highway. Usually four trips a day. 

3. Marlboro Line. Route: from 8th St. and Pennsyl- 
vania Ave. sO'Utheasterly to Marlboro, Md., about 16 miles. 

d. Sight-Seeing Cars 

The Sight-seeing Automobiles occupy in Washington a 
rather prominent position. There are many rival lines, the 
majority of which offer three different trips, covering in each 
case approximately the same territory: Tour A. "Seeing 
Washington" ; on this trip cars run daily every hour, from 10 
A. M. until 4 P. M. during the winter season, and from 9 
A. M. to 5 P. M. between Apr. 15 and Sept. 15, making the 
circuit of the principal points of interest within the city limits. 
Uniform price, $1.00; Tour B: Personally conducted trip 



22 RIDER'S WASHINGTOX 

through the public buildings ; one trip daily, except Sundays, 
iisually at lo a. m. Pi'ice, including fees, $1.50; Tour C: a 
suburban excursion usually including the northwest residential 
section of Washington, the National Zoological Park, George- 
town, Ft. Myer and Arlington. Some lines make two week- 
day trips at I and 3 P. AI. ; others make only the 3 P. M. trip. 
Sundays, three trips: 10 (or 11) A. Al., i and 3 P.M. Price 
$1.50; Tour D: Some lines offer a personally conducted tour 
to Alexandria and Mt. Vernon. Cars start daily, except Sun- 
days, at 10 A. 'M., the round trip occupying four hours. Price 
(including guide and admission fees) $3.00. 

The majority of the Sight-seeing Automobile Companies, 
of which a list is given below, run during the wintej season 
glass-enclosed and well-heated touring cars. 

Congressional Sight Seeing Car, 103 Pennsylvania Ave. 
Gray Line Sight Seeing Tours, 1417 Pennsylvania Ave. 
Red Star Sight Seeing Company, S0\y2 14th St. 
Royal Blue Line Sight Seeing Co., 1237 Penn. Ave. 
Green Line Sight Seeing Tours, 2 F St. 

V. Postal Facilities; Telegraph Offices 
a. Postal Facilities 

The Washington Cily Post Office (p. 357), at Massachusetts 
Ave. and North Capitol St., is open day and night. The 
Money Order Office is open daily from 8 A. M. to 9 P. M., 
except Sundays and Holidays. The Registry Section is open 
continuously, and here Money Orders may be obtained on 
Sundays and Holidays ; also at night after the Money Order 
windows are closed. The General Delivery Windows (for 
"Poste Restante" letters) are open daily from ^ A. M. to 
midnight, except Sundays. The Parcel Post Section for the 
reception of Parcel Post mail is open continuously. The 
Retail Stamp JVindozvs are open, week days, from 7 A. M. to 
II P. M. ; Sundays from 10.30 A. M. to 2 P. M. At other 
times stamps in small quantities may be obtained at the 
Registry Division. The Wholesale Stamp Department is open 
from 8.30 to 4.30 P. M. daily, except Sundays and Holidays. 

Besides the Government Post Office District, the city is 
divided into about thirty Postal districts, each served by a 
Branch Post Office, designated by local names: 

Anacostia Station, 2018 Nichols Ave., S. E.: Benning Station, Ben 
ning Rd. and Anacostia Ave.: Brightwood Station, Georgia and Colo 
rado Ave?.; Brookland Station, 12th and Monroe Sts., N. E.; Central Sta 
tion. 15th and H Sts., N. W. ; Columbia^ Rd Station, 1775 Columbia Rd. 
N. W. ; Congress Heights Station, 400 Nichols Ave., S. E.; Connecticu 



POSTAL AND TELEGRAPH 23 

Ave. Station, 1220 Connecticut Ave.. N. W.; nth St. Station, 514 nth 
St., N. W.; F St. Station, 800 F St., N. W.; Florida Ave. Station, Con- 
necticut and Florida Aves.; 14th St. Station, 1400 14th St., N. W. ; 
Friendship Station, 4511 Wisconsin Ave., N. W. ; Georgetown Station, 
31st and M Sts., N. W. ; Langdon Station, 24th and Douglas Sts., N. E. ; 
Navy Dept. Station, 19th and B Sts., N. W.; Northeast Station, 703 
Maryland Ave., N. E. ; Park Rd. Station, 14 13 Park Rd., N. W. ; 
Park View Station, Warder and Newton Sts., N. W. ; Pennsylvania 
Ave. Station, 1716 Pennsylvania Ave., N. W. ; Randle Highlands Station, 
2500 Pennsylvania Ave., S. E. ; St. James Station, 484 Pennsylvania 
Ave., N. W.; 7th St. Station, 11 18 7th St., N. W.: Seat Pleasant 
Station, 63d & Eastern Ave., N. E. ; Southeast Station, 640 Pennsyl- 
vania Ave., S. E.; Southwest Station, 416 7th St., S. W. ; Takoma Park 
Station, 6818 4th St., Takoma Park, D. C; Treasury Station, U. S. 
Treasury; Truxton Circle Station, 1538 N. Capitol St.; U St. Station, 
U St. betw. 14th and 15th Sts.; Walter Reed Station, Walter Reed 
Hospital; Woodley Rd. Station, Wardman Park Hotel; Woodridge Sta- 
tion, 2103 Rhode Island Ave., N. E. 

Letter Boxes (painted green when outdoors) will be 
found at conveniently brief intervals, affixed to lamp posts, 
or within many of the large office buildings and hotels. 
Schedules of the time of collecting are posted on all of the 
letter boxes. There are only three deliveries a day, on week 
days, both in the business and residential districts (six deliv- 
eries to the leading hotels). No letters are delivered on 
Sundays, except "Special Delivery" letters. There are from 
eight to twenty collections on week days, varying in the dif- 
ferent districts ; three collections on Holidays, and two on 
Sundays. 

(For postal rates and other general ipostal regulations, see Rider's 
Nczv York City, pp. 45-47.) 

b. Telegraph and Cable Offices 

For details regardmg the Teilegraph service of the 
United States the foreign visitor is referred to Rider's New 
York City, p. 47. The Washington services of the two principal 
companies are as follows : 

Western Union Telegraph Company: main office, 1401 
F St. N. W. ; branch offices, 613 and 900 Pennsvlvania Ave. 
N. W.; 705 15th St. N. W.; 1213 Wisconsin Ave. N. W. ; 
United States Capitol (m corridor leading to House Wing) ; 
1 104 Connecticut Ave. N. W. ; 7th St. at corner of F St. 
N. W. ; 1420 Columbia Road N. W. ; House Office Building 
New Jersey Ave. and B St. S. E. ; Union Station, facing 
Plaza at Delaware and Massachusetts Aves. N. E. ; Colo- 
rado Building, cor. 14th and G Sts. N. W. ; New Willard 
Hotel, Pennsylvania Ave. and 14th St. N. W. ; Woodward 
Building, 1731 15th St. N. W. ; also in all the principal Gov- 
ernmental Departments. 



24 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Postal Telegraph-Cable Company: main office, Evans 
Building, 1422 New York Ave. N. W.; branch offices, F St. 
corner of 8th St. N. \V.; Woodward and Lothrop, F St. 
corner of nth St. N. W . ; 1128 Connecticut Ave.; 1249 Wis- 
consin Ave. N. W. ; United States Capitol (in Senate base- 
ment); Union Station; National Hotel, corner Pennsylvania 
Ave. and 6th St. N. W^ ; and in all Government Departments. 



VI. Theatres, Concerts and Other Places of 
Entertainment 

Washington is exceptional among world Capitals in its 
relative dearth of high-class playhouses. It has no permanent 
local stock companies, and is dependent upon brief engage- 
ments (usually one-week stands or less) of companies on 
tour. It is significant that two of the best built modern 
houses in the city, the Belasco and Keith's, are wholly given 
over to vaudeville. 

Poli's Theatre (PI. H— D5), Pennsylvania Ave., E. side, 
betw. 14th and 15th Sts. High-class drama, musical comedy, 
etc. Seating capacity, 1900. 

The prices of seats vary from week to week according to the 
character and importance of the production. The following prices 
represent the maximum scale for a high-class musical show. 

Evenings, including Saturdays: Box seats, $3.85; orchestra, $3.36; 
orchestra circle, $2.75; balcony, first four rows, $2.20; next three 
rows, $1.65; remaining rows, $1.10; second balcony^ first four rows, 
83c.; remaining rows, 58c. Saturday matinee: Box seats, $2.75; 
orchestra, $2.20; orchestra circle, $2.20; balcony, first four rows, $2.20; 
next three rows, $1.65; remaining rows $1.10; second balcony, 55c. 
Thursday matinee: Box seats $2.20; orcliestra and orchestra circle, 
$1.65; balcony, first four rows, $1.65; remaining rows, $r.io; seeond 
balcony 55c. 

New National Theatre (PI I— A2; p. 107), 1325 E St. 
High-class drama, opera, musical shows, concerts and lectures. 

The following prices represent the usual scale for the average 
dramatic show: Evenings and Saturday matinee: Box seats, $3.30; 
orchestra, $2.75; balcony, $2.20, $1.65 and $1.10; gallery, 55c. Wed- 
nesday matinee: Box seats, $3.30; orchestra, $2.20; balcony, $1.65 and 
$1.10; gallery, 55c. 

The following is the maximum scale for special productions, musical 
reviews, etc.: Evenings: Boix seats, $4-4o; orchestra. $3.30; balcony, 
$2.75, $2.20 and $1.65; gallery, $1.10 and 5SC. Saturday matinee: 
Box seats, $3.30; orchestra, $2.75; balcony, $2.20 and $1.65; gallery. 
$1.10 and 55c. Wednesday matinee: Box seats, $3.30; orchestra, $2.20; 
balcony, $1.65 and $1.10; gallery, 55c. 

Shubert-Garrick Theatre (Pl. I— C2), S. E. cor. 7th and 
F Sts. High-class drama. Seating capacity, c)6i. 



THEATRES AND CONCERTS 25 

Average prices: Evenings, including Saturday: Lower box seats, 
$2.75; upper box seats, $2.20; lege seats, $2.20; orchestra, $2.20; 
balcony, rows A to D, $1.65; rows E to H, $1.10; rows I and J, ^sc 
Matinees: Lower box seats, $2.20; upper box and loge seats, $iT65; 
orchestra, $1.65; balcony, rows A to H, $1.10; I and J, 55c. 

New Capitol Theatre (PI. I — B2; p. 104), Pennsylvania 
Ave., E. side, betw. loth and nth Sts. 

Evenings and Sunday matinees: Box seats, $1.25; orchestra, rows 
1-14, $1.10; rows 15-18, 85c.; remaining rows, 75c.; balcony, 55c. 
Sunday evenings and holidays: Box seats, $1.65; orchestra, rows 1-14, 
$1.10; remaining rows, 83c.; balcony, rows i-io, 55c.; remaining rows, 
28c. Weekday matinees: Box seats, 85c.; orchestra, 5Sc.; balcony, 28c. 

Shubert-Belasco Theatre (PI. II— D4; p. 187), Madison 
Place, facing Lafayette Square. Vaudeville. 

Evenings, Monday to Friday: Box seats, $1.65; orchestra, $1.10; 
mezzanine $1.10; balcony, rows 1-5, 83c.; remaining rows, 55c.; gallery, 
28c. Saturday, Sunday and holiday evenings: Box seats, $1.65; 

orchestra and mezzanine, $1.65; balcony, rows 1-5, $1.10; remaining 
rows, 83c.; gallery, 28c. Matinees: Monday to Friday: Box seats, 
$1.10; orchestra and mezzanine, 55c.; balcony, 39c.; gallery, 28c. 
Matinees: Saturday, Sunday and holidays: Box seats, $1.65; orchestra 
and mezzanine, $1.10; ba-lcony, rows 1-5, 83c.; remaining rows, S5C.; 
gallery, 28c. 

Keith's Theatre (PI. II— D4), S. E. cor. 15th and G 
Sts. Vaudeville. 

Evenings and holiday matinees: Box seats, $2.20; orchestra, rows 
A to K, $2.20; rows L to T, $1.65; rows U to W, $i.io; mezzanine, 
rows A to C, $1.10; rows, D to I, 83c.; balcony, rows A to F, 55c.; 
rows G to K, 39c. Matinees: Monday to Friday: Box seats, $1.10; 
orchestra, rows A to F, $1.10; rows G to T, 83c.; rows U to W, 55c.; 
Mezzanine, rows A to C, 55c.; rows D to I, 39c.: balcony, 28c. 
Matinees: Saturday and Sunday: Box seats, $1.65; orchestra, rows 
A to F, $1.65; rows D to T, $1.10: rows U to W, 83c; mezzanine, 
rows A to C, 83c.; rows D to I, 55c.; balcony, rows A to F, 39c.; rows 
G to K, 28c. 

Gayety Theatre (PI. I— B2), 511 9th St. Burlesque. 

Evenings: Monday to Saturday, and holiday matinees: Box seats, 
$1.25; orchestra, $1.25; balcony, rows A to G, 75c.; rows H. to M, 
50c. Sunday and holiday evenings: Box seats, $1.25; orchestra, $1.25; 
Ijalcony, rows A to J, 85c.; rows K to M, 550. Matinees: Monday 
to Saturday: Box seats, $1.10; orchestra, rows A to N, 75c.; rows 
O to Y, soc; balcony, rows A to. G 50c.; rows H to M, 30c. Sunday 
matinees: Box seats, $1.25; orchestra A to N, $1.10; rows O to Y, 
75c., balcony, rows A to G, 50c.; rows H to M, 30c. 

Cosmos Theatre (PI. I — B2), 919 Pennsylvania Ave. 
Vaudeville. 

Evenings and Saturday, Sunday and holiday matinees: Orchestra, 
65c.; balcony, 40c. Matinees: Monday to Friday: Orchestra, 40c.; 
balcony 25c. 



26 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

There are in addition a considerable number of Motion 
Picture theatres at popular prices, usually ranging between 
20C. and 6oc. Among those centrally located are the following : 

Loew's Columbia Theatre, cor. of F and 11th Sts. 
Loew's Palace Theatre, cor F and 13th Sts. 
Crandall's Theatre, cor. E and 9th Sts. 
Crandall's Metropolitan Theatre, 934-36 F St. 
•Crandall's Savoy Theatre, 14th St. and Columbia Road. 
Hippodrome, 9th St. and New York Ave. 
Regent Theatre, cor. U and 18th Sts. 
Circle Theatre, 2105 Pennsylvania Ave. 

Concerts and Other Musical Entertainments 

Washington has no high-class concert hall or other audi- 
torium reserved exclusively for musical entertainments. Con- 
certs of the higher grade are usually given at the National 
Theatre (p. 107), mornings or afternoons and Sunday eve- 
ning. These concerts are regularly advertised in the daily papers 
with notice where tickets may be purchased (seldom at theatre 
box office). Other halls often used for concerts are that of 
the A'ezv Masonic Temple, New York Ave. and 13th St., and 
the auditorium of the Central High School (p. 431). 

VII. Sports, Games, Etc. 

There is an abundant variety of sports practiced within 
the District of Columbia; and the casual visitor will not only 
have ample opportunities for watching his favorite games, but 
facilities for participating in them as well. In all sports within 
the District the color line is rigorously drawn. 

No account of sports within the District would be com- 
plete without mention of the Racquet Club (p. 30), which 
promotes all kinds of sports. This club has indoor tennis 
courts, racquet courts, gymnasium, swimming pool, etc., and 
resembles the New York Athletic Club both in its appoint- 
ments and its standing with regard to local athletics.^ A 
stranger visiting Washington, if armed with a letter of intro- 
duction to a member of the Racquet Club, would find easy 
access to any favorite sport. Strangers not so armed and 
desiring information alx)ut sports, would do best by consulting 
the sporting department on any daily paper, which will gladly 
give such information by phone. 

Athletics. Gvmnasiuvis : The Y. AI. C. A.. G St. betw. 
17th and i8th Sts.; the Y. W. C. A., 14th and G Sts. and the 
K of C Hall, 916 loth St. Track Athletic meets, both 



SPORTS AND GAMES 27 

indoor and outdoor, occur at various times during the year, 
colleges and clubs being the participants. There is no regular 
schedule. 

Baseball. The Washington American League Baseball 
Team plays at American League Park (p. 430), 7th St. and 
Florida Ave. (when not on the road), from April 15 to Oct. i. 
There are about a dozen amateur leagues in the District, which 
play in various fields, their schedules of games extending from 
May I to Sept. i. Four of the Diamonds used by these teams 
are on the Ellipse behind the White House; four others are 
on the Washington Monument grounds; and still another is on 
the grounds of the Railroad Y. M. C. A. adjoining Union Sta- 
tion on the E. Any one can attend these games free of charge ; 
there are, however, no seats. There are also semi-professional 
teams which play at Union Park, 15th and H Sts. N.E. every 
Sunday, from May i to Oct. i. From late March to June 
there are college games, played on Georgetown University 
Field, 36th and O Sts. ; Catholic University Field, 7th St. and 
Michigan Ave., N. E. and at Gallaudet College Field, 7th St. 
and Florida Ave., N.E. 

Bowling. A pirominent sport in Washington. Thirty 
leagues play matches from Oct. to June. There are many 
public alleys where nominal fees are charged. 

Boxing. This sport is forbidden within the District, and 
so strictly is the law enforced that it is not even permitted to 
demonstrate blows on the stage. The only boxing to be seen 
nearer than Baltimore is at the Service bouts at Fort Myer, 
across the river in Virginia. An admission fee is charged, the 
proceeds going to the Army Athletic Association. 

Canoeing. One of the leading sports in Washington dur- 
ing the summer. All the canoe clubs are located along the 
Potomac River, W. of Rock Creek. The principal clubs are 
the Washington Canoe Club, the Colonial Canoe Club, the 
Raccar Canoe Club and the Sycamore Island Canoe Club. And 
there are numerous smaller ones. The Washington Canoe Club 
is a member of the Chesapeake-Delaware Division of the 
American Canoe Association and has a famous four. 

Fencing. The Washington Fencing Club holds public 
matches with teams from other cities. 

Football. A leading sport in Washington. College games 
are played here during the season by Georgetown University 
(at American League Park, 7th St, and Florida Ave., N.E.). 
by George Washington University, Gallaudet College, the Cath- 



28 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

olic University and the University of Maryland (the last 
named being considered a District of Columbia institution 
since most of its students are graduates of Washington High 
Schools). The IVasliingtoii Professional Foot Ball Club, 
member of the American Professional Foot Ball Association, 
plays every Sunday during the season at American League Park. 
There are also various semi-professional teams. 

Soccer Football is represented by the teams of the National 
Capital Soccer Association — namely, the Washington Soccer 
Club, the Rangers, the Hibernians and the Harlems. These 
clubs plays double-headers on Sunday afternoons on the Monu- 
ment Lot Field, near Washington Monument. There is no 
admission fee because this is a Government reservation. Soc- 
cer is a new game in the District, and is coming into promi- 
nence. The men Avho play it are a cosmopolitan set, including 
men from the Legations. 

Golf. There are golf courses at the Columbia Country 
Club, Chevy Chase, Md. ; the Chevy Chase Club; the Bannock- 
burn Golf Club, Conduit Road, near Glen Echo, Md. ; Kirkside 
Golf Club, Chevy Chase, Md. ; the Tozvn and Country Club, 
Georgia Ave. and Crittenden St.; the Washington Golf and 
Country Club, Jewell Station, Va. (on Washington-Great Falls 
Electric Ry.) ; the Congressional Golf Club; the Indian Spring 
Golf Club, near Silver Spring, Md. ; and the Potomac Golf 
Club (playing on the Municipal course in East Potomac Park). 
Except Chevy Chase Club, these clubs extend usual club 
aourtesies. All Caddies are negroes. 

There are two nine-hole Municipal courses, one in Easi 
Potomac Park, the other in West Potomac Park, open prac- 
tically eleven months in the year. Fee 25 cents. Clubs can be 
rented at these Municipal courses, and lessons can be obtained 
from the professionals in charge. Reached by electric line, 
and public autos. also by packet boat from foot of 7th St., S. W. 

Polo. This game is fostered by the War Department, 
and Army tournaments are held spring and fall. 

Swimming. There is a Tidal Basin Bathing Beach, a 
public beach in the Basin in Potomac Park, W. of Washington 
Monument; a small fee is charged. The bathing houses (open 
8 A. M. to sunset. June to Oct.) are well equipped, and suits 
and lockers can be rented. The influence of the tide is felt 
six miles above Washington, but the water is not salt. There 
are also Municipal pools (June to Oct., 6 A. M. to sunset) 
at 17th and B Sts., N. W. ; no charge. At all of these bathing 
places there are special hours for women, and separate days 
for negroes. 



CLUBS 29 

Indoor Swimming. The Central Y. M. C. A., 1736 G St., 
has a public pool; fee, 25 cents. There are bathing pools at 
the Catholic University and the Central High School (p. 431) 
where contests are held during winter. The pool at the 
Central High School is open to the public during July and 
Aug. under the Community Centre Organization, an institu- 
tion of long standing in the District, under which the public 
has the use of the High Schools for entertainments. 

Tennis. The Washington City Tennis Association in- 
cludes the Dumbarton, Chevy Chase and Columbia Clubs. 
Matches are played on the courts of the Dumbarton Club 
(Wisconsin Ave. and R St.) every Saturday from May through 
Sepit. The Suburban Tennis League is organized annually, 
comprising from eight to ten teams. Matches take place 
every Saturday all over the District, and are open to the public. 
The Departmental Tennis League, composed of from eight 
to ten teams recruited in the Government Bureaus, play weekly 
matches. For dates and location see daily papers. 

There are some 40 Municipal Courts in Potomac Park, 
for the use of which permits must be obtained from the 
Superintendent of Public Buildings and Grounds (a Federal 
ofificer). Courts open 6 A. M. to sunset; no charge. 

Trap Shooting. The Washington Gun Club, afifiliated 
with the American Trap Shooting Association, has its range 
on Benning Road, adjoining the Potomac Electric Power 
Station. Shoots are held every Saturday throughout the year, 
and also on holidays. The club promotes many inter-city 
matches. Many prominent men of Washington are members, 
and the club's slogan is "Visitors Welcome." 

Yachting. The two chief clubs are the Capital Yacht 
Club (exclusive), at foot of 9th St., S. W., and the Cor- 
inthian Yacht Club, on the W. bank of the Potomac, S. of 
Highway BVidge. Races are held 20 mi. below Washington, 
where the Potomac, which is only a mile wide at Washington, 
broadens out to nearly five miles. 

VIII. Clubs 

Clubs play a prominent part in the social life of 
Washington ; yet while the number of important clubs is un- 
usually large, in proportion to population, organizations of a 
distinctly political nature are conspicuously absent. The chief 
clubs, to which, of course, strangers may obtain access only 
through introduction by a member, are given in the follow- 
ing list. 



30 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Metropolitan Club (PI III— E3), N. \\\ cor. 17th and 
H Sts. (557 res. members; 784 non-res.; 22 diplomatic; 38 
hon.) ; is, and always has been, the most prominent social 
club in Washington. Racquet Club (Pi. Ill— D3), i6th St., 
betw. L and M Sts. (600 res. meni'bers ; 700 non-res.); a 
modern athletic club on the lines of the New York and Boston 
Racquet Clubs, composed of the younger men of Washington, 
and socially quite important. A special feature is a large num- 
ber of rooms where members may put up their friends. Cosmos 
Club (PI. II— D4), S. E. cor. H St. and Madison Place, a club 
of world-wide renown with membership consisting largely of 
men of professional distinction in science, art or letters. (See 
p 188.) University Club (PI. II— D3), N. W. cor. of 15th 
and I Sts. : Membership limited to college graduates ; has a 
women's Annex with dining room for wives of members. A 
very active club, giving frequent dinners, dances and weekly 
lectures. The local Harvard, Princeton, Yale, etc., Alumni 
Associations, having no club rooms, hold their reunions 
here (p. 220). City Club (PI. Ill— E3). N. W. cor. Connecti- 
cut Ave. and I St.: Membership includes a majo^rity of the 
prominent Washington business men. National Press Club 
(PI. Ill— E3), 15th and G Sts.: Membership limited to men; 
but there are women's evenings, and there is a roof garden 
where women may dine on these evenings. Gridiron Club. 
This club has no club house, but gives at the New Willard 
(PI. I — A2), the most famous club dinners given in the 
United States, (see p. no). Two distinguishing rules which 
affect the character oif these dinners are : i. "Reporters kre 
never present"; 2. "Ladies are always constructively pres- 
ent'' — thus insuring freedom of speech and refinement. The 
membership is limited exclusively to newspaper correspond- 
ents. Arts Club of Washington (PI. Ill— E2). 2017 I St.: A 
small club of men affiliated with one or another of the arts. 
Army and Navy Club (PI. Ill — E3), N. E. cor, Connecticut 
Ave. and I St. : An old established club for officers of 
the two services ; strong social prestige. Riding and Hunt 
Club, 22d and P Sts. ; has a large tanbark ring where mem- 
bers ride in winter. Congressional Club (Pl.iIII — D3 — ^No, 29), 
New Hampshire Ave, and U St. : The leading women's club 
of W^ashington ; memibcrship Hmited to wives of Senators, 
Congressmen and Judges of the Supreme Court (see p, 207). 
IV omen's City Club (PI. Ill— E3), 22 Jackson Place: 
Has same general interests as the Men's City Club. 
American Association of University Women. No. 1634 
I St.; Social center for the college and university 



SHOPS AND STORES 31 

women of America (is€e p. 233). The Alibi Club, at i8o5 
I St. A small club (40 members), formed by a limited group 
of socially prominent Washingtonians, chiefly college men, 
because "poker was not permitted at the University Club." It 
is mainly a dining club, and has an interesting collection of 
poems and other contributions written by visitors. Three 
organizations which have rapidly come to the front in civic 
matters are : The Rotary Club, the Kizvanis Club and the Lions 
Club, all three of which are composed of men who get-together 
for the purpose of improving the community in which they live. 
The numerous country clubs of Washington and vicinity 
include : 

Chevy Chase Club situated £t Chevy Chase, Md. 
(19 16 members, both sexes) : One of the oldest and most 
exclusive country clubs. Golf course over-crowded for com- 
fort. Columbia Country Club, also at Qievy Chase, Md., 
(both sexes) : Reputed to have a better golf course than 
the Chevy Chase Club. Congressional Country Club : This 
recently organized cluib of which Her*bert Hoover is a prom- 
inent officer, has just acquired [1922] a 406-acre tract in 
Maryland, and three golf courses, with a total of 45 holes, are 
in course of construction. The membership while including 
many Congressmen is not confined to them. Pierce-Mill Club, 
Great Falls, Md : Small membership. Montgomery County 
Club, furthest out of any of the clubs ; dinners, dances, trap 
shooting and tennis; but no golf. Dumbarton Tennis Club, 
Wisconsin Ave. and R Sts. : Exclusively for tennis. 

See also under "Sports, Games, etc." (p. 26). 
IX. Shops and Stores 

Art Dealers. *Veerhoff's Galleries, 1320 ¥ St.; *S. J. Venahle, 
I22S G St.; *Moore Galleries, 729 17th St.; Fred C. Haves Art Co., 
1231 G St.; Charles B. Jarvis, 1309 G St.; The Antique Shop, 815 
17th St.; Niepold & Sons, 913 F St.; /. 0. Akers, 1142 7* St.; 
Miss Jane Bartlett, 1337 Connecticut Ave. 

Book Stores. *Brentano's, S. W. cor. F and 12th Sts.; Pearlman's 
Book Shop, 931 G St.; Loxvdermilk & Co., 1424 F St. (rare books, 
prints, etc.); Rare Book Shop, 813 14th St.; *]Villiam Ballantyne & 
Sons, 1409 F St.; C. C. Pursell, 807 G St. 

Boots and Shoes. Arthur Burt Co., 1343 F St.; Edmonston & 
Co., 1334 F St.; Berberich. 813 Pennsylvania Ave.; Rich. N. W. cor. 
loth and F Sts.; Family Shoe Store. 310-12 7th St.; A'. Hess Sons, 
Inc., 931 Pennsylvania Ave.; IVm. Hahn & Co., City Club, G St. 

Many other well-known makes of shoes, such as the Cantilever, 
Emerson, Hanover, Regal and Dotrglas have local branches on Penn- 
sylvania Ave., chiefly between 9th and loth Sts. 



32 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Children's Cl&thing. Kafka. X. E. cor. F and loth Sts.; Juvenile 
Shop, 1 1 05 Connecticut Ave. 

China and Glass, Dulbi & Martin Co., i2'i5 F St.; Slierratt's 
China Art SUorc. 608 13th St.; Tuck Cheong &■ Co., 342 Pennsylvania 
Ave. See also "Oriental Goods." 

Cigars and Tobacco. G. G. Carnwell & Son, 141 5 H St.; Henrv 
T. Offtcrdinger, 508 9th St.; W . H. Warner, 308 9th St.; United Cigar 
Stores Co., 626 14th St.; branches: 1704 Pennsylvania Ave.; S. E. cor. 
;th and F Sts.; 1349 E St.; 707 15th St.; 9th and E Sts.; 1941 14th 
St.; 500 9th St. 

Clothiers and Haberdashers. *Sidney West, Colorado Building, 
N. E. cor. G and 14th Sts.; *Stinemet2 & Son Co., cor. F and 12th 
Sts.; *D. J. Kaufman, 1005-7 Pennsylvania Ave.; Saks & Co., N. W. 
cor. Pennsylvania Ave. and 7th St.; The Young Men's Shop, 1319-21 
F St.; Raleigh Haberdasher, 1109-11 Pennsylvania Ave.; Philip T. Hail, 
141 1 F St.; The Mode, S. E. cor. nth and F Sts.; Parker, Bridget & 
Co., Pennsylvania Ave. and 9th St.; The Willard Shop, 511 14th St.; 
Meyer's Shops, 133 1 F St. 

Confectioners and Caterers. *Demonet, Connecticut Ave. and M 
St.; *Rausclier's, 1034 Connecticut i.\ve.; Brownlev's. 1205 G St.; 

1302 F St.; Vclati, 609 14th St.; Huyler's, 1119 F St., 617 15th St.: 
John Kolb, 1508 14th St.; Stahlman, 1254 Wisconsin Ave.; Louis Boeck- 
styn's, 2016 14th St.; 5". A. Reeves, 1209 F St.; Hubert, Inc., 1803 
Connecticut Ave.; Cinderella Candy Shop, 617 14th St.; Nunnally's, 
1223 F St.; Velati, 620 9th St.; Louise Candy Shoppe, 1616 H St., 
1714 H St.; Martha Washingho-n Candies, 12th St. betw. E and F Sts. 

Drug Stores. Affleck, isth and F Sts.; F. H. Ridgway, Connecticut 
and Florida Aves. ; People's Drug Store. N. W. cor. 7th and ICl Sts., 
S. W. cor. 7th and E Sts.. cor. 7th and M Sts.. 703 15th St.. 1107 
G St., and numerous other branches; Ditpont Pharmacy, s Dupont 
Circle; Dorman Homeopathic Pharmacy, 1007 H St.; King's, S. E. cor. 
14th and Massachusetts Ave.; Christiana, N. W. cor. 9th and Pennsyl- 
vania Ave.; Tschiifelv Bros., 1203 Connecticut Ave.; Liggett' s, 1006 F 
St., 1345 F St., 904 ¥ St., 1301 F St., 418 7th St.. 70X isth St., 
1237 Pennsylvania Ave., 1717 Pennsylvania Ave.: O'Donnell's, 604 9tli 
St., 301 Pennsylvania Ave., 1118 F St., 401 E. Capitol St. 

Embroideries and Laces. The Lace Shop, mi F St.; The Em- 
broidery Shop, 827 iith St.; French Lace Shop, 1208 G St.: F. A. 
Zraick, 1105 Connecticut Ave.; Alice Maynard, 1303 F St. 

Florists. Glide Bros. Co., 1214. F St.; Blackistone, N. W. cor. 

14th and H Sts.; Marche & Co., S. E. cor. 14th and H Sts.; George 

C. Shaffer, 900 14th St.; /. H. Small & Sons, Inc., S. E. cor. 15th 

and H Sts.; Louise Flower Shop, Connecticut Ave. and N St. 

Hair Dressers. * Cummins, 1756 M St.; Borden's, 1115 G St.; 
Katie E. Dunn, 517 nth St.; Hepner, 525 13th St.; Rochon, 916 14th 
St.; George & Emile, 920 17th St.; Emile, 121 3 Connecticut Ave.; 
B'Oston Beauty Shop, 1006 F St.; Desire Bannery, 24125^2 i8th St. 

Ladies' Tailors. Pluym's, 1220 Connecticut Ave.; Frank Faust, 
1020 17th St.; M. Pasternak, 1232 14th St.; Paul Leibel, 121 5 G St. 

Milliners. Howard] & Deane, 1309 F St.; J. M. Ash, 1217 Con- 
necticut Ave.; I. L. Blout, 710 7th St.; Grimes, 1404 H St.; Young's, 

1303 Connecticut Ave.; Zimmerman. 1307 Connecticut Ave.: Fox-Leary, 
8 [4 17th St.; Maison Lihby. 13th and G Sts. 

Opticians. Franklin & Co., 1329 F St.; Frank H. Edmonds, 809 
15th St. 



CHURCHES, RELIGIOUS SERVICES 33 

Oriental Goods. The Pagoda, 1625 H St.; Hekimian Nejib, 1512 
H St. (Oriental rugs); Suzuki & Co., 614 14th St.; Cuang Wall Yuen, 
318 Pennsylvania Ave. 

Photographers. *Clinedinst Studio, 14th and H Sts.; *Harris & 
Ewing, 131 1 F St.; Brooks Studio, 1^29 F St.; /. D. Boyce, 1325 F 
St.; Rice Studio, 1203 F St.; Edmonston's Studio, 1407 F St.; Bach- 
rack's Studio, 1327 F St.; Towle's Studio, 1520 Connecticut Ave.: 
G. V. Buck, 1 1 13 F St.; Eastland Studio, 1107 F St.; Underwood, 1230 
Connecticut Ave. 

Silversmiths and Jewelers. *Berry & IVhitunre Co., N. W. cor. 
nth and F Sts.; *Galt & Bro., 11 07 Pennsylvania Ave.; Salvatore Desio, 
926 F St.; R. Harris & Co., N. W. cor. 7th and D Sts.; Harris & 
Shafer Co., 1308 F St.; Whitemore, Lynn & Alden Co., 1225 F St.; 
Lucios Jewelry Co., 1307 F St.; Shaw & Brown Co., 1114 F St. 

Souvenirs, Post Cards, etc. "National Remembrance Shop, 503 
14th St.; John F. Jarvis, 2d St. and Pennsylvania Ave.; A. C. Bossel- 
man, 473 Pennsylvania Ave. 

Sporting and Athletic Goods. A. G. Spalding, 613 14th St.; D. N. 
Walford, 909 Pennsylvania Ave.; Jloxvard A. French Co., 424 9th St.; 
The Spcrt Market, Inc., 905 F St., 1410 New York Ave. 

Stationers. Brentano's, S. W. cor, 12th and F Sts.; Berry & 
Whitmore, N. W. cor nth and F Sts.; Gait & Bro., 1107 Pennsylvania 
Ave.; R. P. Andrezvs Paper Co., 727-31 13th St.; Baum Paper and 
Stationery Co., 905 7th St. (crepe paper, etc.); Stocket-Fiske Co., 919 
E St.; Brewood, 12th between F and G Sts.; Copenhaver, 1521 Con- 
necticut Ave.; Morrison Paper Co., 1009 Pennsylvania Ave.; Brown, 
1 30 1 Connectichit Ave. 

Trunks and Leather Goods. * Becker. 1324 F St.; H. W. Topham, 
1212 G St.; G. A. Kneessi, 1231 G St.; K. Kneessi's Sons, 425 7th St., 
Luts, 1325 G St. 

Umbrellas and Walking Sticksi. Mrs. M. A. Griswould, 411 nth 
St.; French Umbrella Shop, 718 13th St. See also "Clothiers and 
Haberdashers." 

Women's Outfitters. *Stinemets & Son Co., 1201 F St.; * Julius 
Garfinkle & Co., S. E. cor. F and 13th Sts.; /. M. Giddings & Co., 
15 10 H St.; Philipsborn, 608-14 nth St.; Kafka, N. E. cor. F and 
loth Sts.; Louvre, ins F St., 15 10 H St.; Risik Br>os., 1213 F St.; 
Leverton's, 1106 G St.; M. Brooks & Co., 1 107-9 G St.; Woodzvard 
& Lothrop, nth and F Sts.; Erlebacher's, 1210 F St.; Frank R. Jelleff. 
1216 F St,; Palais Royal, nth and G Sts. 

X. Churches, Religious Services 

For the convenience of visitors wishing to attend service 
at churches of their ov^n denomination, the following selective 
list of the more important places of worship is given, the 
denominations being classed alphabetically. 

There are in all about 358 churches in the District of 
Columbia, inclusive of Chapels and Missions. Of these 115 
are for negroes. The principal denominations are represented 
as follows in order of their numerical importance: 

A. White: Protestant Episcopal, 43; Methodist Episco- 
pal, 35; Presbyterian, 27; Baptist, 26; Roman Catholic, 25; 
Lutheran, 17; Methodist Protestant, 8; Methodist Episcopal 



34 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

South, 7; Disciples of Christ, 7; Hehrezv, 4; Society of 
Friends, 3; Congregational, 3; Reformed, Swedenhorgian, 
Unitarian and Universalist, 1 each. B. Colored: Baptist, 
66; Methodist Episcopal, 34; Protestant Episcopal, 7; Pr^j- 
byterian, 3; Congregational, 3; Roman Catholic, 2. 

The usual hours at which services are held are ii A.M. 
and 8 P. M. In the following selective list the hours of 
service are given only in the cases where they are at variance 
with the usual practice. Announcement of services at the 
leading churches, together with subjects of the sermons, and 
special musical programs, will be found in the Saturday 
papers, notably in the Evening Star. 

Baptist: First Baptist (p. 201), i6th and O Sts. ; Rev. 
Henry Allen Tupper, D. D., Minister. — Immanuel Baptist 
i6th St. and Columbia Road; Rev. G. G. Johnson, 
D. D., Pastor.— Cfl/irrav Baptist, 8th and H Sts.; 
Rev. W. S. Abernethy/ D.D., ¥2iSior.— Temple Baptist, 
loth and N Sis.— West Washington Baptist, 31st and N Sts. 
(Georgetown) ; services 11 A. M. and 7.30 P. M. — Metro"' 
politan Baptist, 6th and A Sts. N. E. ; services 11 A. M. and 
7.45 P. M. -^Maryland Avenue, 14th St. and Maryland Ave. 
N. E.— Fifth Baptist, E St. near 7th St. N. W. ; services 
II A. M. and 7.45 P. M.— Kendall Baptist, 9th St. near B St. 
S. W. ; services 11 A. M. and 7.30 P. AI, 

Christian: Vermont Avenue Christian Church (p. 221), 
Vermont Ave. north of -N St.; Rev. Earle Wifle}-, D. D., 
Pastor. 

Christian Scientists : First Church of Christ, Scien- 
tist, Columbia Road and Euclid St. — Second Church of Christ, 
Scientist, 8th and F Sts. N. E. 

Congregational : First, loth and G Sts. N. W. ; Rev. 
Jason Noble Pierce, Minister. — Mt. Pleasant Congrega- 
tional, Columbia Road near 14th St. ; Rev. Walton Amos 
Morgan, Minister. 

Jewish : Washington Hebrew Congregation, 8th St., 
between H and I Sts.; services Friday 8 P. M., Saturday 
10 A. M. — Adas Israel, orthodox ; services Friday 6 P. M., 
Saturday 8 A. M. 

Lutheran: Luther Place Memorial (p. 221), 14th and^N 
Sts. N. W. ; Rev. G. M. Dififenderfer, Fastor.— Epiphany 
(p. 207), i6th and U Sts.; Rev. Charles F. Steck, D. D., Pas"- 
tor. — St. Paul, cor. nth and H Sts., N. W., — Atonement, 
North Capitol St. and Rhode Island Ave. — Keller Memorial. 



CHURCHES, RELIGIOUS SERVICES 35 

Mao'land Ave. and 9th St. N. E.— Reformation, 2d and B 
Sts. S. E. 

Methodist Episcopal: Metropolitan (p. 134), John Mar- 
shall Place and C St.; Rev. Harry J3a\vson Mitchell, D. D., 
Minister. — Wesley Clwpel, cor, F and 5th Sts. — Foundry 
(p. 202), i6ith and Ohurch Sts.; Rev. Herbert F. Ran- 
dolph, D.D., Minister. — Hamline, 9th and P Sts. ; Rev. Hamil- 
ton P, Fox, Pastor. — Calvary. Columbia Road, between 
14th and 15th Sts.; Rev. James Shera Montgomery, 
Minister. — Trinity M. E. (formerly Ebeneser; see p. 411 )> 
Pennsylvania Ave. and 5th St. S. E. ; services 11 A. M. and 
7.30 P.M. 

Presbyterian: First Presbyterian Church (p. 136), John 
Marshall Place, between C and D Sts. ; Rev. John Brittan 
Clark, D. D., V^siov.— New York Avenue P. C. (p. 231), at 
cor. of New York Ave., 13th and H S^s. — Church of the 
Covenant (p. 22:^), at S. E. cor. of Connecticut Ave., i8th 
and N Sts.; Rev. Charles Wood, Minister. — Gunton-Temple 
Memorial, I4|h and R Sts. ; Rev. Bernard Bras- 
kamp, Pastor. — Gurley Alcnwriai, 14th St. and* Meri- 
dian Place.' — Northminster, iitli St. and Rhode Island 
Ave.; services 11 A. M. and 7-45 P. M. — Washington 
Heights, Columbia and Kalorama Roads ; Rev. John C. Pal- 
mer, D. D., Minister; services 11 A. M. and 7.45 P. M.— 
Fourth Church, 13th and Fairmount Sts. — West Street Church, 
P St. near 35th St. (Georgetown) (p. 464). 

Protestant Episcopal: The Cathedral of Sts. Peter and 
Paul Bethlehem Chapel (p. 455), Mt. St. Alban, D. C. ; serv- 
ices 7.30, , 10 and II A. M. and 4 P. M. — St. John's 
Church (p. 195), i6th and H Sts.; Church of the Epiphany 
(p. 150), G St. near 14th St.; Rev. James E, Freeman, 
D.D., Rector; services 8 and 11 A. M. and 4 and 
8 P. M. — Church of the Ascension (p. 227), Massa- 
chusetts Ave. and 12th St.; services 8 and 11 A. M. 
and 5 and 8 P. M. — St. Thomas (p. 234), cor. of 
i8th and Church Sts.; services 8, 10.15 and ii 
A. M. — St. Paul's, 23d St. near Washington Circle; serv- 
ices 7.30, 10 and II A. M. and 8 P. M. — Church of 
the Incarnation, cor. of N and 12th Sts. ; services 7.30 
and II A. M. and 5 P. M. — St. Margaret's, Connecticut Ave. 
and Bancroft Place; services 7.30 and ii A. M. and 8 P. M. — 
Christ Church (p. 406), G St.. between 6th and 7th Sts. S. E. — 
St. James, 8th St. near Massachusetts Ave. N. E. ; services 
7.30 and II A. M. and 3.30 and 7.45 P. M. — All Souls' Memo- 



36 RIDERS WASHINGTON 

rial, Connecticut and Cathedral Aves. — Church of the Advent, 
cor. of 2d and U Sts. ; services 7.30 and 11 A. M. and 8 P. M. 
— St. John's, Georgetown Pardsh (p. 472), 3240 O St.; services 
7.30 and II A. M. and 7.30 P. M. — Christ Church, Georgetown 
Parish (p. 472), oor. of 31st and O Sts.; services 7.30 and 11 
A. M. and 7.30 P. M. — St. Paul's, Rock Creek Parish (p. 436), 
in Rock Creek Cemetery; services 11 A. M. 

Reformed: Grace Reformed Church (p. 231), 15th and 
O Sts. ; Rev. Henry H. Ranck, Pastor. 

Roman Catholic: St. Patrick's (p. 147), loth St., be- 
tween F and G Sts.; Sunday Masses 7, 8, 9, 10 and 11 A. M.. 
A'espers 4 P. M. — St. Aloysius (p. 362), North Capitol and I 
Sts.; Sunday Masses 6, 7, 8 and 11 A. M., Vespers 7.30 P. M. 
— St. Mat\theii''s (p. 234). Rhode Island Ave. near Connecti- 
cut Ave.; Sunday Masses 7, 9, 10 and 11 A. M., Vespers 4 
P. M.—St. Paul's, 15th and V Sts.; Sunday Masses 6, 7, 8, g; 
10 and II A. M., Vespers 7.30 P. M. — St. Stephen's, 
Pennsylvania Ave. and 25th St. ; Sunday Classes 6, 7. 9, 10 
and II A. M., Vespers 4.30 P. M. — St. Dominic, 6th 
St., between E and F Sts. S. W. ; Sunday Masses 6, 7.30. 9, 
10 and II A. M., Vespers 7.30 P. M. — St. Joseph's (p. 365), 
2d and C Sts. N. E. ; Sunday Masses 7, 9 and 10.30 A. M., 
Vespers 4 P. M. — St. Peter's (p. 411), 2d and C Sts. S. El.; 
Sunday Masses 7, '9 and 10.30 A. M. — St. Mary's (German), 
5th St., between G and . H Sts. ; Sunday Masses 7.30, 9.15 
and 10.30 A. M., Vespers 4 P. M. — Holy Trinity, 36th and O 
Sts. (Georgetown) ; Sunday Masses 6, 7, 9, 10 and 11 A. M., 
Vespers 7.30 P. M, — Church of the Franciscan Monastery, 
14th and Quincy Sts. N. E. ; Sunday Masses 5.30, 6, 
7.30 and 9 A. M. 

Society of Friends: Friends Meeting House, 181 1 I St.; 
services 11 A. M. 

SwEDENBORGiAN : Church of the New Jerusalem (p. 203), 
i6th and Corcoran Sts.; Rev. Paul Sperrv, Pastor; services 
.11 A. M. 

Unitarian: All Soul/ Church (p. 232). cor. 14th and 
L Sts.; Rev. Ulysses G. B. Pierce, D. D., Minister. 

Universalist: Church of Our Father, 13th and L Sts. 
N. W. ; Rev. John Van Schaick, Jr., D. D., Pastor. 

The principal negro congregations are: 

Baptist: Vermont .Avenue, Vermont Ave., betw. Q and R Sts.— 
Metropolitan, R St., betw. 12th and 13th Sts. — Nineteenth Street, 
:9th St., cor. I St. — Florida Avcuitc, Florida Ave. near 7th St. — Walker 



LIBRARIES AND READING ROOMS Z7 

Memorial, 13th St., betw. U and V Sts. Methodist Episcopal: Asbiiry, 
K St., cor. nth St. — Metropolitan A. M. E., M. St., near 15th St.— 
Mt. Zion, 29th St., betw. Dumbarton Ave. and O St. — Ebenezer, D St., 
cor. 4th St. S.E. Presbyterian: Fifteenth Street, 15th St., betw. I and 
K Sts! Protestant Episcopal: St. Luke's, 15th St., cor. Church St. — 
St. Mary's Chapel, 23d St., betw G and H Sts. Calvary 
Chapel, nth St., cor. G St., N.E. Roman Catholic: St. Augustine's 
Cp. 231), isth St., near M St. — St. Cyprian, 13th and C Sts., S.E. 

XI. Libraries and Reading Rooms 

Washington contains approximately 170 libraries ; and 
owing to the fact that these include the libraries of the 
various Departments of Government, several large Univer- 
sities, the Smithsonian Institution, and other scientific socie- 
ties, it results that the library facilities of Washington are 
unrivaled by any other city in America. The following list is 
limited to the libraries which, to a greater or less degree, are 
open to the public. 

Library of Congress, ist and B Sts. S. E. Open daily, excepting 
Christmas and the 4th of July. Week days 9 A. M. to 10 P. M., 

Sundays and Holidays 2 to 10 P. M. Resources, 3,000,000 printed 
books and pamphlets, and nearly 2,000,000 other items. For reference 
use the library is free to any reader over sixteen years of age. The 
classes of borrowers are designated by statute (p. 369). 

Public Library of the District of Columbia, Mount Vernon Square. 
Open from 9 A. M. to 9 P. M. week days, including Holidays (except 
Christmas and the 4th of July). Sundays, 2 to 9 P. M. Resources 
230,000 vols. This is a circulating and reference library, free to all 
persons living in the District of Columbia, and to residents of Mary- 
land' and Virginia employed in the District (p. 226). 

State Department Library, in the State, War and Navy Building. 
Open 9 A. M. to 4 P. M. daily except Sundays and Holidays. Re- 
sources, 70,000 vols. Reference library for use of State Department 
and Diplomatic Corps. All others must obtain permission from the 
Secretary, Assistant Secretaries or Chief of the Bureau dp. 126). 

Library of the General Staff College, in General Staff College 
Building. Resources, 150,000 vols, and pamphlets. Open to the public 
for reference only, from 9, A. M. to 4 P. M. daily, except Sundays and 
Holidays (p. 351). 

Library of the Surgeon General's Office, 7th and B -Sts., S. W. 
Resources, approximately 600.000 books and pamphlets. Open to the 
public for reference, 9 A. M. to 4 P. M. daily, except Sundays and 
Holidays. Books are lent to the medical .prof ession ' (p. 250). 

Columbus Memorial Library, Pan-American Union, 17th and B Sts., 
N. W. Resources, 45,000 vols. Reference library open free to the 
public, 9 A. M. to 4.30 P. M. daily, except Sundays and Holidays. 
The collection is entirely Latin-American (p. 162). 

Daughters of the American Rei'olution Memorial Library, iy\.\\ and 
D Sts., S. W. Resourcels 10,000 vols. Reference library open to the 
public, 9 A. M. to 4.30 P. M. daily, except Sundays and Holidays. 
Specialty, American history and genealogy (p. 155^- 

Columbia Historical Society Library, Pacific Building, 622 F St., 
N. W. Resources, 700 vols, and 3500 pamphlets. Open Wednesdays 



38 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

II A. M. to 4 P. M. from November to May. At other times by 
special appointment with the Secretary. Students of local history 
are welcome tO' the use of the library (p. 141). 

Riggs Memorial Library, Georgetown University, 37th and Sts. 
Resources, 165,000 vols. The use of the main part of this collection 
is restricted; to the students and alumni of the University (.p. 469). 

The Morgan Colonial Maryland and District of Colnmbia Library, 
Georgetown College (resources. 4000 vols.), is open for reference to all 
investigators of Maryland, Colonial and District of Columbia history. 
Hours'S-ii to( 2-5 P. M. daily (p. 467). 

Library of the Catholic University of America, Brookland. Re- 
sources, 132,000 vols. Open to the public for reference daily, except 
Sundays, 9 A. M. to 5 P. M. (p. 416). 

Interstate Commerce Commission Library, i8th and Pennsylvania 
Ave., N. W. Resources, 16,000 vols, and 20,000 pamphlets. Open to the 
public for reference, 9 A. ]M. to 4.30 P. M. daily, except Sundays and 
Holidays. Specialty, railroad literature and law (p. 216). 

Bureau of Railway Economics l^ibrary, 429 Homer Building. 
Resources, 100,000 vols. Open free for reference to any one interested, 
week-days from 9 A. M. to 5 P. M., except Saturdays, when it closes 
at I P. M. 

Department of Labor Library (U. S.), Labor Building 1712 G 
Street. Resources, 80,000 vols. Open for reference to* all (investigators 
of social problems, 9 A. M. to 4.30 P. M. daily, except Sundays and 
Holidays. Specialties, Labor, immigration, naturalization, statistics, child 
welfare, housing. 

Civil Service Commission Library, (U. S.), 1724 F St., N. W. 
Resources, about 4200 vols. Reference library open to the public from 
9 A. M. to 4.30 P. M. (p. 153)- 

Library of the American Federation of Labor, cor. Massachusetts 
Ave. and 9th St. Resources, 6,000 vols. Intended primarily for the use 
of members, but students and investigators are welcome. Open 9 A. M. 
to 4.30 P. M. daily, except Sundays and Holidays (p. 227). 

Public Documents Library, North Capitol and H Sts. Resources, 
approximately 280,000 vols. Free to the public for reference. Open 
9 A. M. to 4.30 P. M. daily, except Sundays and Holidays. This 
library was founded primarily for the preservation of U. S. Governr 
ment publications (p. 361). 

Department of Commerce Library (U. S.), 19th and Pennsylvania 
Ave. N. W. Resources, 110,000 vols, and pamphlets. Reference 
library, primarily for the use of the Bureau, but open to any enquirers, 
9 A. M. to 4.30 P. -\I. daily, except Sundays and Holidays (p. 216). 

Patent Office Library (Department of the Interior), Patent Office 
Building. Law and Scientific Libraries (resources, respectively 6000 
and 80,000 vols.), both open freel to the public for reference, 9 A. M. 
to 4.30 P. M., except Sund&ys and Holidays (p. 142). 

Library of the Bureau of Education, Pension Office Building, 5th 
and F Sts., N. W. Resources, 175,000 vols. Open for reference. 
9 A. M. to 4.30 P. M. daily, except Sundays and Holidays, to all 
persons interested in educational matters (p. 139)- 

Library of the Bureau of American Ethnology, Smithsonian Insti- 
tution. Resources, 40,000 vols', and pamphlets. Reference lilirary for the 
use of the Bureau staff, but privileges are extended to other readers. 
Specialty, anthropology, particularly works pertaining to American aborig- 
ines (p. 288). 



LIBRARIES AND READIXG ROOMS 39 

National Miisetim Library, B St. and the Mall. Resources, 155,000 
vols, and ipamphlets. Open to the public for reference, 9 A. M. to 
4.30 P. M. daily, except Sundays and holidays. The collection is 
wholly scientific (p. 260). 

Library of the Department of Agriculture, 12th and B Sts., S. W. 
Resources, 155,000 vols, and pamphlets. Reference library open- free 
to the public daily, except Sundays and holidays, 9 A. M. to 4 P. M. 
The collection is strong in agriculture in all its branches, forestry, 
botany, economic entomology, etc. (p. 254). 

Bureau of Fisheries Library (U. S. Department of Commerce), 6th 
and B Sts. S. W. Resources, about 41,000 vols. Open free to the public 
for reference use, 9 A, M. to 4.30 P. ^I.^ except Sundays and Holidays 
(p. 245). 

Library of the Geological Survey, Interior Department Building. 
Resources, 150,000 vols, and pamphlets; 37,000 maps. Open to the 
public for reference 9 A. M. to 4.30 P. M., except Sundays and 
holidays. Collection restricted td geologj' and related sciences (p. 213). 

Library of the Coast and Geodetic Survey (U. S. Department of 
Commerce), Nevk^ Jersey Ave. and B St., S. E. Resources, 25,000 vols. 
and pamphlets; 35,000 maps. Reference library for the use of the 
Bureau, but free to any responsible iperson properly vouched for (p. 405). 

Library of Bureau of Standards, Pierce Mill Road, W. of Connecti- 
cut Ave. Resources, about 22.000 vols. Open to the public for ref- 
erence, 9 A. M. to 4.30 P. M. daily, except Sundays and holidays. De- 
voted exclusively to physics, technology, chemistry and mathematics, 
(p. 441). 

Library of the Naval Observatory, Massachusetts Ave. and W St., 
N. W. Resources, about 36,000 vols. Open to the public for reference, 
9 A. M. to 4.30 P. M. daily, except Sundays and holidays. This 
library is supposed to contain the best collection of astronomical litera- 
ture in the western hemisphere (p. 442). 

Weather Bureau Library, 24th and M Sts., N. W. Resources, 
52,000 vols, and pamphlets. Open 9 A. M. to 4 P. M. daily, except 
Sundays and holidays. Reference library intended primarily for the 
use of the Bureau, but is open to outsiders engaged in scientific in- 
vestigation (p. 219). 

Library of the Volta Bureau, 1601 35th St. N. W. Resources, 15,000 
vols. Open free to the public, 8.30 to 12 A. M. and i to 5 P- -M- 
.daily, except Sundays and holidays. During June, July and August it 
closes on Saturdays at noon (p. 475). 

Library of the Carnegie Endowment for International Peace, 
Jackson Place. Resources, about 17,000 vols. Open free to the public 
every day from 9 A. M. to 4.30 P. M. except Saturday, when it closes 
at I P. M. Specializes in international law and literature of peace and 
war. 

Library of the Supreme Council of the 33d Degree, Scottish Rite 
Temple, i6th and S Sts. Resources, 100,000 vols, and pamphlets. Open 
9 A. M. to 4.30 P. M. Free for reference to any person vouched for 
by a member. Specialty, literature of Freemasonry (p. 206). 

Masonic Library of the Grand Lodge. F. A. A. M., Masonic Temple, 
New York Ave. and 13th St. N. W. Resources about 3S00 vols. A 
circulating library of general fiction and ^lasonic reference works. Free 
to any one on recommendation by a Mason. Hours 10 A. M. to 
8 P. ]M., Sundays and Holidays excepted (p. 231). 

Mount Saint Sepulchre (Franciscan Monastery) Library, Brookland. 
Resources, about 12,000 vols. Open to the public for reference 
throughout the day and evening (p. 423). 



40 RIDERS WASHINGTON 

Christian Science Library, Colorado Building, cor. 14th and G 

Sts., N. W. Statistics not at present [1922] available. Open free to 

the public' Sundays, 2.30 to 5.30 P. ]M.. week days, 10 A. M. to 9.30 
P. M., except Wedne^sdays, when it closed at 7 P, M. 

Carroll Institute Library, 912-920 loth St., N. W. Resources, 5000 
vols. A general library and reading-room open free, 9 A. M. to 10 
P. M. daily except Sundays and Holidays. 

Peabody Library Association of Georgetown, 3233 O St., N. W. 
Resources, 9000 vols. Free for reference to the public, 6 to 9 P. M. 
daily, except Saturdays and Sundays. 

Library of tlie Smithsonian Institution, B and loth Sts., S. W. 
Resources, 300,000 vols. Scientific and technical books, and explora- 
tions. Open to the public for reference, 9 to 4.30 daily, except Sundays 
and holidays. 

U. S. Soldiers' Home Library, Rock Creek Church Road and Upsher 
St. Resources, about 16,000 vols. Open to the public for reference, 7.30 
A. M. to 8.30 P. M. (p. 432). 

XII. Miscellaneous Services for the Traveller 

a. Foreign Embassies and Legations 
Argentina — Embassy, 1806 Corcoran St.; Mr. Tomas A. 

Le Breton, Ambassador Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary. 
Belgium — Embassy, 1780 Massachusetts Ave. ; Baron de 

Cartier de Marchienne, Ambassador E. and P. (absent) ; Mr. 

F. de Selys de Fanson, Charge d'Affaires. 

Bolivia — Legation, 1707 Massachusetts Ave. ; Senor Adolf 

Ballk'ian, Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary. 

Brazil— (Embassy, 1603 H St.; Mr. Angusto Cochrane de 
Alencar, Ambassador E. and P. 

Bulgaria— Legation, 1821 Jefferson Place; Mr. Stephan 
Panarctoff, E.E. and M.P. 

Chile — Embassy, 1013-1015 Woodv^^ard Building; Senor 
Don Beltran Mathieu, Ambassador E. and P. 

China— Legation, 2001 19th St.; Mr. Sao-Ke Alfred Sse. 
E.E. and M.P. 

Colombia — ^Legation, 2701 Connecticut Ave. ; Senor Don 
Carlos Uribe, Charge d'Affaires. 

Costa Rica— Legation. 2230 California St. ; Sefior Dr. Don 
Octavio Beeche, E.E. and M.P. 

Cuba— Legation. 2630 i6th St. ; Dr. Carlos Manuel de 
Cespedes, E.E. and M.P. 

Czechoslovakia— Legation, 2040 S St.; Dr. Bedrich 
Stepdnek, E.E. and M.P. 

Denmark— Legation. 434 Southern Builling; Mr. Con- 
stantin Brun, E.E. and M.P. 



EMIBASSIES AND LEGATIONS 41 

Dominican Republic — Legation, 1631 Massachusetts Ave.; 
Licdo. Emilio C. Jonbert, E.E. and M.P. 

Ecuador — Legation, 1633 i6th St. ; Senor Dr. Don Rafael 
H. ElimJde, E.E. and M.P. 

Finland — Legation, 1041-1044 Munsey Building; Mr. 
Axel Leonard Astrom, E.E. and M.P, 

France — Embassy, 2460 i6th St. ; M. J. J. Jusscrand, 
Ambassador E. and P. 

Germany — Embassy, 1435 Massachusetts Ave. 

Great Britain — Embassy, 1301 19th St. ; Right Hon. Sir 
Atuckland Gcddes, Ambassador E. and P. 

Greece — Legation, 1838 Connecticut Ave. ; Mr. George 
Dracopoulos, Charge d'Affaires. 

Guatemala — Legation, 2800 Ontario Road ; Dr. Julio 
Bianchi, E.E. and M.P. 

Haiti — Legation, 819 15th St., Rooms 28-29; Mr. Albert 
Blanchet, E.E. and M.P. 

Honduras — Legation, The Northumberland ; Senor Don J. 
Antonio Lopes Gutierrez, E.E. and M.P. 

Italy — Embassy, 1400 New Hampshire Ave.; Senator 
Vittorio Rolandi Ricci, Ambassador E. and P. 

Japan — Embassy, 1310 N. St.; Baron Kijiiro ShideJiara, 
Ambassador E, and P. 

Luxemburg — Legation, The Powhatan ; Baron Raymond 
de Waha, Charge d'Affaires. 

Mexico — ^Embassy, 1413 I St. ; Senor Don Salvador Diego- 
Fernandez, Charge d'Affaires. 

Netherlands — Legation, 1800 Connecticut Ave.; Dr. J. C. 
A. Everzmjn, E.E. and M.P. 

Nicaragua — Legation, 2347 Ashmead Plr.ce ; Senor Don 
Emiliano Chamorro, E.E. and M.P. 

Norway — Legation, The Wyoming. Col: mbia Rd. and 
California St.; Mr. H. H. Bryn, E.E. and M.P. 

Panama — Legation, 2400 i6th St. ; Senor Don J. E. Le- 
fevre, Charge d'Affaires. 

Persia — Legation, 1513 i6th St.; Mirza Hussein Khan 
Alai, E.E. and M.P. 

Peru — Legation, 2726 Connecticut Ave. ; Senor Don Fed- 
erico Alfonso Pczet, Ambassador E. and P. 

Poland — Legation, 2640 i6th St. ; Prince Casimir Lubo- 
mirski, E.E. and M.P. 



42 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Portugal — Legation, The Wardman Park; Viscount 
d'Alte, E.E. and M.P. 

Rumania — Legation, 1607 23d St.; Prince A. Bibesco, 
E.E. and M.P. 

Russia — Embassy, 1125 i6th St. 

Salvador — ^Legation, The Wardman Park ; Senor Don 
Salvador Sol M., E.jE. and M.P. (absent) ; Senor Dr. Don 
Octavio Beeche, Minister of Costa Rica, in charge of Lega- 
tion. 

Serbs, Croats and Slovenes — Legation, 1339 Connecticut 
Ave.; Dr. Slavko Y. Groiiitch, E.E. and M.P. 

Siam — ^Legation, 2300 Kalorama Road ; Phya Prabha 
Karavongse, E.E. and M.P. 

Spain — Embass3% 1673 Columbia Road; Sefior Don Juan 
Riano y Gayangos, Ambassador E. and P. 

Sweden— Legation, 2249 R St.; Capl. Axel F. Wallenberg, 
E.E. and M.P. 

Switzerland— Legation, 2013 Hillyer PI. and 1439 Massa- 
chusetts Ave.; Mr. Marc Peter, E.E. and M.P. 

Uruguay — Legation, American National Building, 13 17 
F. St.; Dr. Jacoho Varela, E.E. and M.P. 

Venezuela — Legation, 1406 Massachusetts Ave. ; Serior 
Don Santos A. Dominici, E.E. and M.P. 

b. Banks and Trust Companies 

Banks: National Metropolitan Bank, 613 isth St.; Riggs National 
Bank of Washington, 1503 Pennsylvania Ave.; American National 
Bank, 13 1 5 F St.; Columbia National Bank, 911 F St.; Commercial 
\ational Bank, 700 14th St.; District National Bank, 1406 G St.; 
Federal National Bank, cor. 14th and G Sts.; National Bank of 
Washington, cor. 7th and C Sts.; Washington Southern Bank, 1413 
G St.; Second National Bank, 507 7th St.; Franklin National Bank, 
cor. loth St. and Pennsylvania Ave.; Lincoln National Bank, cor. of 7th 
and D Sts.: Dti Pont National Bank, 1341 Connecticut Ave. 

Trust Companies: Altinsey Trust Company, cor. 15th and H. Sts.; 
Washington Loan and Trust Company, cor. F and 9th Sts.; American 
Security and Trust Company, N. W. cor. 15th St. and Pennsylvania 
Ave.; Continental Trust Company, cor. 14th and H Sts.; National 
Savings and Trust Company, cor. New York Ave. and istli St.; Unior 
Trust Company, S. W. cor. 15th and H Sts. 

c. Hospitals 

The following is a selected list of the more important 
Washington hospitals : Central Dispensary and Emergency 
Hospital, New York Ave. betw. 17th and i8th Sts. Children's 
Hospital, 13th and W Sts. Columbia Hospital for Women, 



STEAjMISHIP and STEAiMBOAT lines 43 

25th St. and Pennsylvania Ave. Eastern Dispensary and Cas- 
ua>Ity Hospital, 708 Massachusetts Ave. N. E. Episcopal Eye, 
Ear and Throat Hospital, 1147 15th St. Garfield Hospital, 
loth St. and Florida Ave. Georgetozmi University Hospital, 
35th and N Sts. National Homeopathic Hospital, 2d and N 
Sts. Providence Hospital, 2d and D St. N. E. George Wash- 
ington Hospital, 1333 H St. Washington Eye, Ear and Throat 
Hosptal, 2517 Pennsylvania Ave. 

d. Baths, Barber Shops, Etc. 
The Washington hotels are for the most part liberally 
equipped with private bath rooms, at an average charge of 
from $1 to $1.50 in excess of the price of room. 

Baths. Hot and cold baths may be obtained at all the hotels. No 
charge is usually made for the use of hotel public baths. Turkish baths 
may be obtained at the Riggs Lafayette Baths, S. E. cor. 15th and G Sts. 

Barber Shops. Good barber shops are to be found in all the leading 
hotels, in the Union. Station, and in many of the principal ofifice build- 
ings. Many shops employ colored barbers. The Miller Chain of Barber 
Shops, with principal shop under the National Theatre, employs only 
white barbers. Ladies' Hairdressiug Parlors are found in the" principal 
department stores. (See also Hairdressers, p. 32.) 

e. Steamship and Steamboat Lines 

A. POTOMAC RIVER LINES 

Norfolk and Washington Steamboat Co., office at 7th St. 
Wharves S. W. Daily service between Washington, Alex- 
andria, Old Point Comfort and Norfolk, Va. 

[Potomac River Line (Maryland, Delaware and Virginia 
Ry. Co.), office at 7th St. Wbarves iS. W. Weekly service 
(Saturdays) between Washington and Baltimore. 

Mt. Vernon and Marshall Hall Steamboat Co., office at 
7th St, Wharves S. W. Daily service (excepting Sundays) 
between Washington and Mt. Vernon. 

Washington Colonial Beach Steamboat Co., office at 7th 
St. Wharves, S. W. To Colonial Beach, Va., July 19 to Labor 
Day, on Tues., Thurs., Sat. and Sun. Round trip $2.00. 
Moonlight trips on Potomac, Mbn., Wed. and Fri., 75c incl. 
■war-tax. 

B. FOREIGN STEAMSHIP LINES 

The following are the local offices or agencies of the 
principal foreign steamship lines: 

American Eine, 1208 F St.; Atlantic Transport Co., 1208 
F St.; Fnrness-Bermuda Line, Woodward Building, 731 15th 
St.; Cunard Line, 517 14th St.; Fabre Line, Woodward Build- 
ing, 731 15th St.; French Line, 1419 New York Ave; Holland- 
American Line, 1300 G St.; Red Cross Line, Woodward Build- 
ing, 731 15th St. 



44 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

f. Newspapers and Periodicals 
Newspapers and Periodicals. As a publication center, 
Washington while far from taking a position of leadership 
usually expected of a Capital City, stands somewhat above 
the rank to which it is entitled on a population basis (even 
excluding the large Government plants for engraving, print- 
ing and book-binding). The total number of newspapers 
and periodicals published within the District of Columbia is 
120, or approximately one-tenth the number published in 
N'ew York City. They include 6 daily newspapers, 27 weekly 
periodicals, 5 semi-monthly, 56 monthly, 5 bi-monthly and 
21 quarterly magazines. Among these are only two foreign- 
language periodicals, both monthlies, and both virtually 
bulletins of the Pan-American Union. 

The daily papers of general circulation are; the Star 
(evening paper, independent, 2 cents daily, 5 cents Sunday; 
an old family paper, established in 1852, circulation about 
94,000) ; the Post (morning paper, independent, 2 cents daily, 
5 cents Sunday; circulation about 58,000) ; the Times (evening 
paper, 3 cents daily, 10 cents Sunday; the Hearst paper of 
Washington; circulation about 54,000) ; and the Herald (morn- 
ing paper, independent, one cent daily, 5 cents Sunday ; circu- 
lation about 38,000). Newspapers from Baltimore, Phila- 
delphia, New York and other cities, may* be bought at 
principal news-stands along Pennsylvania Ave. 

Of the other periodicals pviblished in Washington, there is a group 
connected with the army or navy or both, while another group (such as 
the Mining Congress Journal, the Journal of the Association of Official 
Agricultural Chemists, etc.), are instances of a growing tendency of 
commercial associations of country-wide scope, to retain their financial 
headquarters in New York, but issue their official organ in the National 
Capital. 

Among other periodicals which find their natural place of publica- 
tion in Washington, should be mentioned: The Federal Employe, the 
Reclassificationistj and various other periodicals concerned with the 
interests of the (iovernment Civil Service; the American Federationist. 
and other labor magazines; the weekly R. F. D. News, and four other 
periodicals for employees of the postal service; the Nation's Business 
(monthly), published by the U. S. Chamber of (Commerce. Washington 
is also the home of the National Geographic Magazine, justly known 
as one of the best illustrated of American periodicals. It should be 
noted in conclusion that there is a notable and perhaps rather curious 
absence here at the Capital of periodicals of any sort with strong 
political tendencies. 

XIII. PLANNING A WASHINGTON STAY 
a. Distribution of Time 
Washington is exceptional among the great world Capi- 
tals in the ease and rapidity with which its principal sights 



PLANNING A WAS'HIiNGTON STAY z|5 

may be seen. Thousands of excursionists find their way annu- 
ally to the Federal City, make a hasty tour of its monuments 
in one of the many sight-seeing cars, are rushed through the 
Capitol, the Corcoran Art Gallery and such of the other pub- 
lic buildings as chance to be open to visitors, and take away 
with them a few indelible memories and the fallacious belief 
that they have toured the city with commendable thorough- 
ness. In point of fact such persons have hardly made a 
beginning. To learn to know Washington, even in a super- 
ficial degree, requires from a month to six weeks. The Capi- 
tol, the White House, the various Department Buildings so 
obtrude themselves upon the visitor's attention that he readily 
overlooks the host of other attractions, the many beautiful 
churches, the wealth of public and semi-public libraries, the 
various seats of higher education, the countless historic land- 
marks on every street and avenue. Among the less known 
attractions which the visitor cannot afford to miss (and some 
of which are barely mentioned in the cheap popular hand- 
books of the city) are the Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul, 
the Franciscan Monastery, the Catholic University, the Scot- 
tish Rite Temple and historic Fort Stevens. 

Another reason why Washington cannot be thoroughly 
visited in a few days is because of the many restrictions re- 
garding opening and closing hours, in consequence of which 
sight-seeing is largely limited to week days betwen 9 a. m. 
and 4.30 p. m. No public building in Washington is open 
evenings, with the sole exceptions of the Library of Con- 
gress, and the Capitol when Congress remains in session. 
No public building is open at any hour, on Sundays, 
with the exception of the Library of Congress, the New 
Museum and the Corcoran Art Gallery (which may be visited 
in the afternoon), and on rare occasions the Capitol, in 
order to accommodate some large visiting delegation. Even 
the Washington cemeteries, with few exceptions, have a rule 
forbidding the admission of visitors on Sunday but this rule 
is not strictly enforced. On the other hand the Washington 
churches, aside from the Protestant Episcopal and Roman 
Catholic denominations, can be seen in the daytime only at 
the hour of the Sunday morning service. 

Notwithstanding its reputation as a "City of magnificent 
distances," Washington, thanks to its central position in the 
original square of the District, exacts a minimum loss of 
time in urban travel. Aside from the suburban excursions 
into Maryland and Virginia, practically every point of in- 
terest to the average tourist can readily be reached by trolley 



46 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

within less than half an hour. Consequently, it is not neces- 
sary for the visitor with a week or more at his command to 
force himself to finish the sights of one neighborhood ex- 
haustively before moving on to the next. It would be, for 
instance, a source of great weariness to spend an entire day 
on the Mall, toiling successively through the Botanical Gar- 
dens, the Aquarium, the Army Medical Museum, the old and 
new National Museums and the Smithsonian Institute. A 
far wiser plan, and the one adopted so far as practicable in 
the following two-weeks' itinerary, is to spend one half of 
each day in in-door sight-seeing, and the other half in some 
out-door ramble, often at the opposite extremity of the city. 

Owing to the capricious nature of the Washington cli- 
mate, the visitor is w"arned not to assume that a day of sun- 
shine promises a spell of good weather. Consequently, the 
first pleasant days should be seized upon for the out-of-town 
excursions. It is a mistake, however, to visit Mount Vernon 
on Saturday, when (especially if the weather is good) the 
throngs of tourists are apt to make a leisurely inspection of 
the old Mansion almost impossible. 

Georgetown can, if necessary, be seen in a single visit. 
Inasmuch, however, as several impoirtant suburban points 
must be reached through Georgetown, it will be found less 
wearisome to inspect the old town in two or three successive 
visits (see below, 8th and nth Days). 

b. A Fourteen Days' Itinerary 

The following suggested sight-seeing itinerary, which is 
planned for a stay of two weeks, is designed to aid the 
visitor in covering the principal points of interest with a 
minimum loss of time. The order in which these fourteen 
trips are taken may be altered to suit the convenience or pref- 
erence of the individual visitor; but he should carefully study 
the days and hours when the various museums and public 
buildings are open ; also in a few cases the free and pay 
days. He should also familiarize himself with the routes of 
the various trolley lines (p. lo) ; for the Washington 
trolley cars zig-zag back and forth, turning corner after cor- 
ner with an unexpectedness quite bewildering to a stranger. 
It should be noted also that the trips marked 5th and 12th 
Days in the present scheme, are the only ones which can be 
satisfactorily taken on Sunday. 

1st Day. Preliminary Ramble down Pennsylvania Ave., com- 
bined with a visit to the Capitol (p. 50), including Ascent of 
Dome, the House Office Building (p. 403), the Old Capitol 



A FOURTEEN DAYS' ITINERARY 47 

Building (p. 364), the Senate Office Building (p. 365), the 
Plaza and Columbus Monument, the Union Station (p. 358) 
and new City Post Office (p. 357) • 

2d Day. Morning: Lafayette Square (p. 184), the 
President's' Grounds and the PF/itV^ House (p. iii), the 
Treasury Building (p. 122), the ^'fff^^, W^ar awtf Navy Build- 
ing (p. 126), the Octagon House tp- 209). Afternoon: the 
Corcoran Art Gallery (p. 171)- 

3d Day. Morning: Pennsylvania Ave. from the Peace 
Monument to the Treasury Building, incUiding Central Mar- 
ket (p. loi). Post Office Department Building (p. 104). 
Municipal Building (p. 108), and t\\Q Sherman Statue (p. 125). 
Afternoon: American Red Cross Building (p. 154), Memo- 
rial Continental Building (p. 155), Pan-American Building 
(p. 162), A^ezv Navy Building (p. 346). 

4th Day. Residential Section, Morning: St. John's 
Church (p. 195), "Avenue of the Presidents" (p. 195) » ex- 
cursion E. and W. on K St. (p. 237), taking in McPher- 
son Sq. (p. 220), and Farragut Sq. (p. 222); then con- 
tinuing N. on i6th St., passing National Geographic Society 
(p. 199), Scott Circle (p. 200), Foundry Church (p. 202), 
Church of the New Jerusalem (p. 203), Scottish Rite Temple 
(p. 204), and Meridian Park, with new Joan of Arc and 
Dante Statues. At Harvard St. take Mount Pleasant 
trolley S., via Columbia Road and Connecticut Ave., 
to Dupont Circle; thence walk S. E. on Massachu- 
setts Ave., passing (again) Scott Circle, Thomas Circle 
(p. 228) and Lutheran Memorial Chwrch (p. 221), then 
S. on 14th St., passing All Souls' Church (p. 232), Frank- 
lin Sq. (p. 232) and Nezv York Ave. Presbyterian Church 
(p. 231). Afternoon: Excursion through Shopping Dis- 
trict (p. 141), passing Church of the Epiphany (p. 150), 
St. Patrick's Church (p. 147), Ford^s Theatre (p. 145) » 
the Lincoln Museum (p. 145), Public Land Office (p. 144) 
■and Patent Office (p. 142). A visit to the Lincoln Museum 
can be made any evening. 

5th Day. Morning: Arlington Cemetery and Fort Myer 
(p. 504). Afternoon: Nevi) National Museum, first visit 
(p. 260). 

6th Day. Morning: Congressional Library, first visit 
(p. 369). Afternoon: Washington Southeast (p. J.Q3), 
including St. Peter's R. C. Church (p. 411), Old Christ 



48 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Church (p. 406), Marine Barracks (p. 406), Navy Yard 
(p. 407), and Congressional Cemetery (p. 408). 

7th Day. Morning: Mount Vernon (p. 487)- After- 
noon: Alexandria (p. 512) including Christ Church (p. 5M)' 
Carlylc House (p. 519), Masonic Lodge (p. 517) and Marshall 
House (p. 521). 

8th Day. Morning: Georgetown, first visit, (p. 462), 
including Georgetoivn Heights (p. 476), Oak Hill Cemetery 
(p- 479), Tudor Msansion (p. 476), Bodisco House (p. 47o), 
Convent of the Visitaiion (p. 473) and Volta Bureau (p. 475)- 
Afternoon: Cathedral of St. P>etcr and St. Paul (p. 455) 
and American University (p. 443). 

9th Day. Morning: Old National Museum (p. 322). 
Afternoon: Catholic University (p. 416) and Franciscan 
Momstery (p. 423)- 

loth Day. Morning: National Museum, second visit. 
Afternoon: Smithsonian Institution (p. 255), Agricultural 
Department (p. 252), includiing Greenhouses, JVashington 
Monument (p. 342), Sylvan Theatre (p. 348), Paul Jones 
Monument (p. 352) and Lincoln Memorial (p. 353)- 

nth Day. Morning: Army Medical Museum (p. 248), 
Aquarium (p. 245). Botanic Gardens (p. 241), Grant Memorial 
(p. 242). Afternoon: Soldiers' Home (p. 432), Rock Creek 
Church and Cemetery (p. 436), Brightwood (p. 438) and 
Fort Stevens (p. 438). 

I2th Day. Morning: Ramble through the Old Residen- 
tial Section (p. 131), C St. to Judiciary Sq.. passing 
Trinity P. E. Church (p. 132), Metropolitan M. E. Church 
(p. 134), First Presbyterian Church (p. 136), City Hall 
(p. 137), D'iistrict Court^ of Appeals (p. 138)- and Pension Office 
(p. 139). Afternoon: National Zoological Park (p. 444). 

13th Day. Morning: Georgetozvn, second visit, Wash- 
ington Headquarters (p. 465), former residences of Jef- 
ferson (p. 465), Francis Scott Key (p. 465) and Mrs. E. D. E. 
N. Southworth (p. 466), Georgetozmi University (p. 467). 
Afternoon: Great Falls of the Potomac (p. 484). 

14th Day. Morning, li'ashington Southivesf (p. 240). 
Afternoon: Excursion to Glen Echo Park and Cabin John 
Bridge (p. 483). 



^ A FIVE DAYS' ITINERARY 49 

c. A Five Days' Itinerary 
1st Day. Capitol (p. 50), Pcnnsyhmiia Ave. (p. 96), 
White House and Vicinity (p. iii), Corcoran Art Gallery 
(p. 171), American Red Cross (p. 154), Continental Memorial 
Hall (p. 155) and Pan-American Building (p. 162). 

2d Da3^ The Mall (p. 240), Grant Memorial (p. 242), 
Botanic Gardens (p. 241), Aquarium (p. 245), Army Medical 
Museum (p. 248), Old National Museum, Smithsonian 
Institution (p. 255), Nczu National Museum (p. 260), 
Agricultural Department (p. 252) and Washington Monu- 
ment (p. 342). 

3d Day. Mount Vernon (p. 487), Alexandria (p. 512), 
and Arlington (p. 504). 

4th Day. Morning: Excursion from Judiciary Sq. 
through Shopping District (p. 141) to Lafayette Sq. and 
St. John's Church (p. 195). Afternoon: Residential Sec- 
tion, Sixteenth St. N. to Harvard St. ; National Zoological 
Park (p. 444)- 

5th Day. Morning: Franciscan Monastery (p. 423), 
Catholic University (p. 416), Soldiers' Home (p. 432), 
Rock Creek Church and Cemetery (p. 436). Afternoon: 
Georgetown (p. 462), Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul 
(P- 455). 



-r-s" 



pLC^UU?. 



WASHINGTON NORTHWEST— 
THE CENTRAL SECTION 

{From the Capitol to the White House) 

I. The National Capitol 
a. History 

**The National Capitol (PI. Ill— F5) is situated, in 
conformity with Major L'Enfant's original plan exactly 
in the center of Washington, on the verge of the bluft 
which rises abruptly to a height of 89 ft. above the mean 
tidal level of the Potomac River. The building is accurately 
located in accordance with the cardinal points of the compass, 
and fronts towards the east, because the Commissioners of 
the projected Federal city erroneously assumed that the city's 
chief growth would be eastward. 

The Capitol is open to visitors daily, Sundays and holi- 
days excepted, from 9 a. m. to 4.30 p. m, ; also at night 
when the Senate or House or both are in Session, and this is 
denoted by a light burning just 'below the statue of Freedom. 
The Capitol is reached most directly by the Connecticut 
Ave. trolley line (cars marked "Mount Pleasant"). Also by 
Georgetown-Lincoln Park line; Eleventh St. line (both passing 
through E. First St.) ; and Pennsylvania Ave. line (cars 
marked either "Navy Yard" or "17th and Pennsylvania Ave. 
S. E.") to 1st and B Sts. S. E. _ All these lines bring the 
visitor near to the eastern or main entrance to the Capitol, 
All the Pennsylvania Ave. cars pass the western entrance to 
the Capitol grounds, behind the Peace Monument. 

History. On March I4t5h. 1792, the Commissioners 
appointed by Washington advertised for competitive 
plans for the Capitol and for the "President's House." 
to be submitted not later than July 15th following, offering 
in each instance $500.00 and a building lot to the successful 
competitor. The plans of James Hoban, a young Irishman 
who had settled in Charleston, S. C, were promptly accepted 
for the White House (p. iii). The Capitol proved to be 
a more troublesome problem. The number of rival plans 
submitted is not recorded ; but no less than 16 competitors, 
professional and amateur, are mentioned by name in docu- 



THE CAPITOL 51 

ments of the period, and nearly as many plans, some of 
them quite futile, have been preserved in the Maryland His- 
torical Society, and are reproduced in Mr. Glenn Brown's 
authoritative History of the Capitol. The only plans show- 
ing promise were by Stephen L. Hallet, said to have been 
a student under the famous architect Nash. Accordingly 
he was requested by the Commissioners to submit new 
designs. 

Meanwhile, although the time limit had expired, Dr. 
William Thornton, a native of the Island of Tortola, West 
Indies, received permission to submit plans. The simple 
dignity of these designs greatly pleased Washington ; and 
on March 14th, 1793, the Commissioners notified Hallet that 
Thornton's plans had been accepted, and the award of $500.00 
and a building lot granted him ; but that in consideration of 
Hallet's extra labor, he should receive an equivalent amount. 

As Dr. Thornton was admittedly an amateur, Hallet was 
further employed to examine the plans and make estimates ; 
and he promptly, reported adversely on the three important 
points of practicability, time and expense. Washington re- 
luctantly requested Thornton to revise his plans to meet 
these objections. The erection of the Capitol from Thorn- 
ton's modified plans began in August, 1793, with Hoban as 
supervising architect; but since his time was fully occupied 
with the White House, the Commissioners made the mistake 
of appointing Hallet as his assistant. The latter had not yet 
relinquished his ambition to share in designing the Capitol, 
and not only continued to offer substitute plans and sugges- 
tions, but, in spite of frequent rebukes, deliberately disre- 
garded Thornton's plans in several essential points, in con- 
sequence of which he was dismissed in 1794- It was then 
found necessary to tear down part of the work, namely : 
the foundations of the Rotunda, which Hallet had chosen to 
make square instead of circular. These facts need to be 
emphasized, since Hallet* has popularly received a large share 
of the credit, where he deserved little or none. 

*See, however, monograph Stephen Hallet and his designs for the 
National Capitol 1791-1794 in Journal of the American Institute of 
Architects for July, Aug., Sept. and October, 1916, by Wells Bennett — 
University of Michigan. 

After Hallet's dismissal he was succeeded by George 
Hod field, an Englishman recommended by Benjamin West. 
When Hadfield, in his turn, quarreled with the Commission- 
ers and resigned, the work was pushed rapidly under the per- 
sonal direction of Thornton as one of the Commissioner?; 



52 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

of Federal Buildings, assisted by Hoban as superintendent. 
But before the walls of either Capitol or White House had 
reached the roof-line, the Commissioners, in 1796, found 
themselves obliged to ask Congress for an approria- 
tion of money. It was finally through the aid of the 
state of Maryland that sufficient funds were available for 
pushing the work; and in the summer of 1800 the W. wing 
of the Capitol was ready for occupancy by the Senate. The 
walls of the South Wing had been carried to a height of 
20 ft, and roofed over temporarily for the House. It was 
popularly known as "The Oven," and here the House rnet 
until 1804, when the roof was removed and the building 
completed by Benjamin H. Latrohe, who had succeeded 
Hoban in 1803. Meanwhile the House sat in the room then 
used for the Library of Congress, on the W. side of the N. 
wing. 

The House Wing was finished in 181 1, and the Hall was 
regarded as a very beautiful structure. The central build- 
ing had not yet been begun, and the two Halls were con- 
nected by a covered wooden passageway. 

On the 24th of August. 1814, the British burned the 
interior of both Wings. Fortunately the outer walls remained 
uninjured. Latrobe was appointed by Congress to super- 
intend the work of reconstruction. This architect has left 
a highly interesting account of the condition in which he 
found the building: "The appearance of the ruins," he says, 
"was perfectly terrifying." He describes the stone columns, 
supporting the halls, as having been so badly eaten away by 
fire that in many of them only a few inches of contact re- 
mained. Many important parts, however, were quite unin- 
jured; among them the entrance to the hall of the House, 
the corn capitals of the Senate vestibule and the vaults of 
the Senate Chamber. Some of the Committee rooms of the 
old House wing were not even soiled. 

Owing to friction with his superiors Latrobe _ resigned 
in November, 1817. He may be accredited with having made 
the original design for the reconstruction of the South 
Wing or old hall of Representatives, and the old Senate 
Chamber; he also modified the west front of the central 
building and the eastern portico. 

Latrobe was succeeded by Oiarles Bulfinch in Januar}', 
1818. The latter's only original contributions were the de- 
signs for the western central portico, the earth terraces and 
landscape work. His modifications were designed to correct 
the original mistake made in placing the building too far 



THE CAPITOL 53 

west, so as to overhang the brow of Capitol Hill, exposing 
an unsightly sub-basement story. This he concealed with a 
semi-circular glacis and sloping terraces. On March 24th, the 
foundation of the central building was laid ; and the whole 
edifice completed in 1825, essentially in accordance with 
Thornton's original plans. 

For a quarter-century the Capitol remained unchanged. 
In 1850, however, urgent need of additional space was 
recognized ; and on September 30th an Act was passed author- 
izing extensions to be built, subject to the approval of the 
President. From the designs submitted, Mr. Fillmore se- 
lected those of Thomas U. Walter, who was accordingly 
placed in charge the following June, 1851. The cornerstone 
of the proposed additions, consisting of the present Senate 
and House Wings, was laid by the President on July 4th, 
of that year. An eloquent oration was delivered by Daniel 
Webster. 

By the following January, the foundations of both wings 
were laid and the basement story finished. That same month, 
the western front of the central building was injured by 
fire, and the following summer was rebuilt by Walter from 
new designs. In 1855 the old wooden dome was removed, and 
contracts placed for the casting of the iron-work required 
for the new one. The new Senate Chamber was first occu- 
pied in 1859, and that of the House in 1857. 

The outbreak of the war in 1861 failed to interrupt the 
work upon the dome, the exterior of which was completed 
in 1863, Crawford's bronze statue of Freedom, which sur- 
mounts it, being placed in position on December 2d. 

In 1874 the veteran landscape architect Frederick Law 
Olmsted (1822-1903) was appointed to superintend the im- 
provements of the Capitol grounds. To him are due mainly 
the present grading of the grounds; the ornamental grotto 
near the N. W. corner; the balustrades and bronze lanterns; 
the spacious plaza opposite the east fagade, with its two large 
rectangular fountain basins of pink Tennessee granite; and 
lastly the profusion of ornamental trees and shrubs (229 
varieties) gathered from all parts of the world, including, 
in addition to a majority of the separate states, China, Japan, 
Syria, the Himalayas and Siberia. The marble terraces along 
the north, west and south fronts were added during 1882-91. 
They were designed and supervised by Edward Clark. 

b. The Building and Its Approaches 
It is hard to decide which of the two approaches has 
the advantage in regard to one's first impression of the 



THE CAPITOL 55 

Capitol. But since the west approach necessitates the ascent 
of nearly one hundred steps, while the east involves less 
walking and no climbing, the great majority choose the latter. 
Eastern Approach. The East Facade fronts upon a 
spacious plaza, where once in four years, on the 4th of 
March, many thousands gather to witness the Inaugural 
ceremony, which takes place upon a special temporary plat- 
form erected before the central portico. Opposite, on E. 
side of plaza three driveways run eastward, the outer ones 

. curving to N. and S. respectively, while the central one is 
prolonged beyond the Capitol Grounds by East Capitol St. 
To the R., on S. E. cor. of First St. are the granite walls 
and gilded dome of the Library of Congress (p. 369), and 
further to the S. is the glistening white marble House Office 
Building (p. 403). O'ccupying the same relative position 
on the N. is the Senate Office Building, while beyond and 
still further to the L. are seen in the distance the Columbus 
Monument, the Union Station (p. 358) and the new 
City Post Office', (p. 357)- 

Opposite the Capitol and flanking the three driveways are six 
lamp piers, 13 ft. high, consisting of blue-stone base and red sand- 
stone band, surmounted by blue-stone and Passamaquaddy red granite, 
inalternate coures, supporting bronze lamps 12 ft. high (designed by 
Thomas Wisedell, of New York). Behind the lamps, to R and L. of 
central driveway, are two low rectangular fountain basins, also of 
Passamaquaddy granite and containing lofty inner basins of bronze, 
from whose margins the water drips in a thin veil. 

Following the outer curves of the side driveways, and extending 

I to N. and S. respectively, are two continuous stone -eats, consisting of 
a blue-stone plinth and base, Seneca stone back and blue-stone coping. 
Each of these quadrants is divided into eight spaces by stone piers 

! surmounted by bronze lamp posts 12 ft. high. 

Western Approach. Facing the western boundary of the 
I Capitol grounds are seen the Botanical Gardens (p. 162), 
I bounded on N. and S. respectively by the converging lines of 
, Pennsylvania and Maryland Aves. The lines of these Ave- 
: nues are continued within the grounds by broad promenades 

overarched with double rows of Oriental Plane trees 
, (Platanus orientalis), and leading steadily upward (with 
I occasional short flights of steps) to the marble terraces of 
j the western entrance (erected 1882-91). 

The .visitor approaching from this side will note on L., near N. W. 

cor. of grounds, a picturesque, ivy-covered rest-hovrse of red brick, 
j whose walls form a truncated equiangular triangle. Xhe interior con- 
I tains seats and a circular stone basin with fountain. Above the seats 
I are latticed openings, the one on E. giving a view of an ornamental 

grotto, in which a small stream trickles among the rocks. 
I In the grounds W. of the Capitol Building are two circular stone 

!■ towers with openings under ground for the air ducts forming part of 
i the ventilating system by which the Senate Chamber and Hall of 
' Representatives are supplied with fresh air. 



56 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

From the lower terrace, which extends approximately 
280 ft. N. and S., ascend, on R. and L., two imposing stair- 
ways of 74 steps, broken by landings into the following divi- 
sions : 16+ 16+2 1 4-21. Between these stairways the sustain- 
ing wall of the upper terrace forms a semi-circle, contain- 
ing nine arched niches. In the centre of this semi-circle is a 
fountain, the lower basin of which measures forty feet. The 
octagonal upper basin is monolithic, of white marble, borne 
on eight short columns of red granite and surmounted by a 
tassa of pink marble. Directly in front, in the centre of the 
terrace, stands the impressive seated statue, in bronze, of 
Chief Justice John Alarshall (i7=;5-i833), heroic size, by 
IV. W. Story (1819-95). This statue, the gift of members 
of the United States Bar, was erected in 1884 at a cost of 
$40,000. 

On the lofty marble pedestal are two interesting bas- 
reliefs: I. on South side, "Victory leads young America to 
swear Fidelity at the Altar of the Union" (^the closely planted 
shrubbery makes it difficult to read the above inscription). 
The central figures are all female. Note, on L., a submissive 
Indian; and on R. a bas-relief reproduction of the seated 
statue of Justice Marshall. 

2. on North side : "Minerva dictating tMe Constitution to 
young America." On L., behind America, are the mothers 
and daughters of the country ; on R. are the American law- 
makers (among whom again occur the features of Justice 
Marshall). 

Ascending the stairway we reach the second terrace 
forming a broad esplanade separated from the basement of 
the building by a sort of trench or moat, affording light and 
air to the sub-basement. Underneath this terrace are a 
series of apartments now utilized as offices, but which, during 
the early davs of the Civil War, were converted into bakeries, 
which turned out daily 16,000 loaves for the use of the 
army. 

From this terrace the visitor may enter directly, through 
central door, the basement floor of the Capitol, from which 
stairs lead to the western door of the Rotunda. It is, 
however, more advisable to follow the terrace, making a 
half circuit of the building, around to the main eastern por- 
tico, thus having an opportunity to study the architectural 
features of the Capitol's exterior. 

The Bronze Doors for Western Central entrance, designed 
by Louis Amateis, are now on exhibition at the New National 
!Museum (p. 263). 



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THE CAPITOL 57 

The Capitol building as it stands to-day, including the 
old central portion as originally conceived by Thornton, with 
the modern Dome and Northern and Southern extensions 
designed by Walter, is in the main an adaptation of the 
Corinthian order of architeoture, and covers an area of 
153,112 sq. ft., or 652 sq. ft. over 31^ acres. The entire length 
is 751 ft. 4 in. The greatest dimension from E. to W. is 
350 ft. The wings, including porticoes and steps, have a 
breadth (E. to W.) of 239 ft., or including porticoes and 
steps 324 ft. Between the original building and each extension 
is a connecting corridor 44 ft. long and 56 ft. deep. 

Materials : The old central building is of Aquia Creek, 
Va. sandstone, painted white; the twenty-four monolithic 
columns of the eastern Central Portico are of Maryland 
sandstone; the N. and S. extensions and connecting corridors 
are of Dolomite marble, almost white, from Lee, Mass. 
(1851-65) ; the columns of the g;stension porticoes are mon- 
oliths of Dolomite marble from Cockeysville, Md. 

The visitor, especiall}^ if approaching from the W., should 

note the fidelity with which the original details of construc- 

' tion have been duplicated, course by course, in the N. and 

i S. extensions. Both the old central portions and the wings 

I consist of a rustic basement, supporting an ordinance of 

j Corinthian pilasters, which rise throughout the height of two 

j stories. Upon these pilasters rest an entablature and frieze, 

I surmounted by a balustrade. From the central portion rises 

. with deceptive lightness and grace the ponderous mass of 

Walter's iron Dome, probably the most universally familiar • 

object in all American architecture. It springs from a peri- 

I style of 36 fluted Corinthian columns, and rises to a height 

I of 287 ft. 5 in. above the base line of the E. front. Its 

I height from the roof balustrade is 217 ft. 11 in., and diameter 

j at the base is 135 ft. 5 in. It is surmounted by a lantern 50 

I ft. in height which sustains the bronze statue of Freedom, 

i modeled by Crawford, which measures 19 ft. 6 in. in height, 

and weighs 12,985 pounds. 

I The old wooden dome with its copper sheathing was taken down 

I in 1856, and the present structure of cast-iron was completed in 1865. 

The total weight of iron used in the dome is 8,909.200 pounds. The 
j total weight about the cellar floor including the sustaining walls, is 
I computed at 57,292,253 lbs., giving a pressure of only 13,071 lbs. per 
\ sq. ft. That of St. Peter's, Rome, is 33,330 lbs. per sq. ft.; St. Paul's, 

London, 39,450 lbs.; and St. Genevieve, Paris, 60.000 lbs. 

The Eastern, or Main Facade has three stately porticoes, 
supported on Corinthian columns, and surmounted by pedi- 
ments containing allegorical groups. The Mcin Central, or 



58 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Rotunda Portico, is i6o ft. wide, with 24 columns sustaining 
an 80-ft. pediment, with sculptures representing the Genius of 
America, executed by Luigi Persico, after a design by John 
Quincy Adams (then Secretary of State). 

The central figure. Armed America, rests her shield, bearing the 
letters U. S. A. upon an altar inscribed with the date, July 4, 1776. 
She is listening to Hope, at the same time pointing to Justice who holds 
the Constitution, inscribed with the date of its adoption, Sept. 17, 1787. 

The porticoes of the Wings have 22 columns each. The 
Pediment of the Senate Portico, executed by Thomas 
Crazi'ford, depicts American Development and the Decadence 
of the Indian Race. Here also America is the central figure, 
bestowing honor upon General Washington. On R. are the 
Elements of Strength on which this country relies: Soldier. 
Merchant, Schoolmaster, Youth and Mechanic, ending with 
Wheat Sheaf and Anchor, symbols of property and stability. 
On L. are the Forerunners of Civilization: Pioneer, Hunter, 
Indian Warrior and Indian Mother and Child mourning be- 
side a grave. Crawford received $17,000 for his models. The 
figures Mere all chiseled on the Capitol Grounds by skilled 
Italian workmen, from Lee, Mass., marble, at a cost of. 
$26,000. 

The Bronze Doors of the Senate Portico are described 
on p. 75- 

\The House Wing Pediment. After remaining vacant 
for more than four score years, this pediment was at last 
filled in 1916 by a group executed j>3' Paul W. Bartlett. In 
the centre is an allegorical presentment of "Peace Protecting 
Genius."' Peace, a commanding female figure with breast- 
plate and coat of mail almost hidden by her mantle, stands 
with left arm resting on buckler which is supported by the 
altar at her side. Her right arm is protectively extended 
over the wnnged figure of youthful Genius who holds the torch 
of Immortality. The composition is completed by two other 
groups respectively symbolizing the two fundamental powers 
of labor and sources of wealth : On E., Agriculture ; on 
W., Industry. 

"The most modest of our farmers and laborers can find in these 
groups the symbol of his own self and of his endeavors. . . . He 
will see that his helpmate, his children, his cattle, and the harvest 
from his fields have been exalted and carved in marble forms. The 
printer, the ironworker, the founder can do the same. . . . The 
toiling factory girl will observe that she has not been forgotten, and 
those who are devoted to the sea can discover a group which will remind 
them of the joys of their vocation. 

"A wave terminates the sculpture at either end of the pediment, 
and is meant to indicate that all this humanity, all its power and 



THE CAPITOL 59 

energy, are comprised between the shores of the two oceans — -the 
Atlantic and Pacific." From Speech by Paul IV. Bartlett at Unveiling 
Exercises, Aug. 2, 191 6. 

The Bronze Doors of the House Portico are described 
on p. 88. 

Since the Tour of the Capitol here given is planned to 
start from the Rotunda, the visitor should enter through the 
Main Central Portico. On R. and L. of Grand Central 
Stairway are two colossal marble groups. That on S. side 
represents The Discovery of America, by Limgi Persico, and 
consists of two figures, Columbus and an Indian girl, the 
former clad in armor modeled from a suit preserved in Genoa, 
and believed to have been worn hy Columbus, The group on N. 
side is The Rescue, by Horatio Greenough, and depicts a 
deadly conflict between an Indian and a Pioneer. The Gov- 
ernment paid $24,000 ap/iece for these groups. 
In the center of the Portico are — 

*The Rogers Bronze Doors. These doors, completed in 
1861, were modeled in Rome by Randolph Rogers, in 1858, 
the sculptor receiving $8000; and cast in Munich by F. von 
Muller, at a cost of $17,000. After some controversy regard- 
ing their location, they were first erected in the passageway 

, connecting the Old Hall of Representatives (Statuary Hall) 

i with the House Wing. They proved, however, a serious ob- 

1 struction in a corridor which at best was none too wide ; 

1 and in 1870 the House voted to have them transferred to their 
present position. The two leaves are each 17 ft. high and 4^ 

I ft. wide, and are surmounted by a semi-circular transom 
panel. The whole is enclosed by a richly ornamented casing, 

j semi-circular at the top, and projecting about a foot in front 
of the leaves. The key of the casing arch bears a bust of 

' Columbus. 

I At top and bottom of the two sides of casing* are four statuettes 

representing: (S. upper cor.) Asia, with oriental head-gear; (N. upper 
■ cor.) Africa, with necklace of claws and teeth; (S. lower cor.) Europe, 

with diadem; (N. lower cor.) America, with liberty cap and shield. 
There are nine panels, four on each leaf of the door, and one 
( in the transom._ Between these panels are ten heads, five on each 

leaf, "representing historians who have written on his (Columbus') 
, voyages, from his own time down to the present day, ending with 
j Irving and Prescott." The correspiondence between Rogers and 
I Thomas U. Walter, then architect of the Capitol, sheds no further 
\ light regarding these heads; but two are evidently women, and two 
I others are Indians. 

On R. and L. of the eight door-panels are 16 statuettes in niches, 

representing contemporaries of Columbus, who figured prominently in 
I his life. The names are inscribed beneath them: 

{ A. (L. Margin of S. Door, from bottom upward) : i. (facing 

, 1st Historic Panel) Juan Perez, Prior of the Convent of La Rabida. 



6o RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

through whose influence Columbus obtained an audience with Queen 
Isabella; 2. Cortez, Conqueror of Mexico; 3. Don Alonzo de Ojeda, an 
unloyal follower of Columbus; 4. Amerigo Vespucci; B. (R. Margin of 
S. Door, from top downward); 5. Pedro Gonzales de Mendoza, Arch- 
bishop of Toledo; 6. Queen Isabella; 7. Doiia Beatriz de Bobadilla 
(there being no extant likeness of the lady, the sculptor modeled her 
features after his wife); 8. Henry VII. of England; C. (L. Margin 
of N. Door, from bottom upward); 9. John II. of Portugal; 10. Charles 
VIII. of France; 11. Ferdinand, King of Spain (it should be noted 
that the doors, when closed, bring the king and queen side by side) ; 
12. Pope Alexander VI.; D. (R. Margin of N. Door): 13. Francisco 
Pizarro, Conqueror of Peru; 14. Balboa, Discoverer of the Pacific; 
15. Bartholomew Columbus, brother of the Discoverer (there being no 
extant portrait, the sculptor reproduced his own features); 16. Martin 
Alonzo Pinzon, Captain of the Pinta, and first to sight the land of 
the New World. 

Panels: a. L. door (from bottom up): i. Columbus expounding 
his project to the Council of Salamanca; 2. Columbus leaving the 
friendly Convent of La Rabida to seek an attdience with Queen Isa- 
bella; 3. Columbus laying his plan before the King and Queen of 
Spain; 4. Columbus about to sail, bidding farewell to his son; 5. Tran- 
som panel: The landing at the Island of San Salvador. 

b. R. door (from top downward) ; 6. First intercourse between the 
Indians and the Spaniards; 7. The triumphal entry into Barcelona; 
8. Columbus arrested on false charges, and sent back to Spain in 
chains; 9. The death of Columbus at Valladolid. 

Above the bronze door is a bas-relief by Antonio 
CapeUano consisting of a portrait bust of Washington, with 
two winged female figures, each extending a laurel leaf, and 
symbolizing: i. (N. side) Fame, with trumpet; 2. (S. side) 
Peace, with palm of Victory; signed A. CapeUano fecit 1827. 
To R. and L. of entrance are Fersico's two marble statues, 
heroic size, symbolizing War and Peace: (on N.) Mars in 
Roman armor, with shield and spear; (on S.) Ceres, with 
olive branch and fruits. 

c. The Rotunda and Dome 

Passing through the Rogers doorway, we enter at once 
the **Rotunda, an immense circular chamber situated im- 
mediately beneath the Dome, and occupying the exact center 
of the Capitol. It measures aproximately 96 ft. in diameter, 
while the height from the floor to the frescoed canopy is 
180 ft. 3 in. The wall is broken by four doorways, situated 
at the four cardinal points, and divided into a series of eight 
spacious panels by an ordinance of 12 fluted pilasters, 30 ft. 
in height, supporting an entablature and cornice of 14 ft. 
It was the intention of the architect, Mr. Walter (p. 53), 
that the q ft. panel encircling the Dome, immediately above 
the cornice, should be occupied by a sculptured frieze in high 
relief, the subject to be the History of America. This plan 
was subsequently discarded in favor of a chiaroscuro fresco 
by Constantino Bnimidi. in imitation of alto-relievo. 



THE CAPITOL 6i 

No account^ of the National Capitol would be compJele without 
a brief biographical note on Constantino Brumidi -(1805-80), who, for 
a quarter of a century was in charge of the Capitol's nniral decora- 
tions. He was born in Rome of a (ireek father and Italian motlier; 
was for a time Captain of the National Guards; and during the 
Pontificate of Pius IX was commissioned to restore some of Raphael's 
Lcgge in the Vatican. As Captain of the Guard he once refused to 
order his Command to fire upon the people, in consequence of which he 
was arrested and imprisoned without trial for 14 months. There- 
after the Pope counseled Brumidi to leave Italy, doubting his own 
power to protect him from Cardinal Anlonelb". In a written statement, 
still extant, Brumidi explains that it was "the French occupation of 
Rome in 1849, for the suppression of Republican Institutions, that de- 
termined him to emmigrate to America where a great Republic was al- 
ready estaljiished." Here he became a naturalized citizen, and in 1855 
executed the first of his mural decorations in what was then the Com- 
mittee Room on Agriculture (p. ). Henceforward, for the rest 
of his life, he carried out his idea that, "the solid construction of 
this National building required a superior style of decoration in real 
fresco, like the Palaces of Augustus and Nero, the Baths of Titus 
and Liyia." Early in 1880, while engaged on his final work, the His- 
toric Frieze, Brumiili narrowly escaped a tragic accident. He was 
alone on his platform when the bench, on which he sat, was pushed 
too far backward and fell. Brumidi was left clinging to the rungs 
of a ladder until an attendant, who happened to» Fee the accident from 
an upper balcony, hurried to his rescue. His death shortly afterwards 
is attributed to this shock at his advanced age. 

The *Frieze, as originally planned by Brumidi, was to 
• consist of 16 historic panels, of which he lived to finish the 
first seven, leaving at his death the designs for eight others, 
drawn on a reduced scale. Filippo Costaf/gini (1837-1907), 
who continued the frieze from Brumidi's designs, purposely 
crowded them in order to leave room, not for one panel, but 
itwo of his own design. The 15 completed panels are as 
follows : 

a. Executed by Brumidi: i. The Landing of Columbus, 
|I492: 2. Cortez entering the Hall of the Montezumas, 1521 ; 
3. Pizarro's Conquest of Peru, 1533; 4. The Burial of de 
jSoto, 1541 ; 5. Pocahontas saving the Life of Captain John 
Smith, 1606; 6. The Landing of the Pilgrims, 1620; 7. Penn's 
Peace Treaty with the Indians, 1682. It was while painting 
|this panel that Brumidi met with the accident which hastened 
liis death. The exact point where he stopped, — namely: the 
group of three Indians, — may readily be distinguished by the 
spectator, through the pronounced change in the tone of the 
background. 

b. Executed by Costaggini: 8. Scene in Plymouth Col- 
ny, 1620; 9. Oglethorpe and the Indians. 1732; 10. The 
attle of Lexington. 1775; 11. The Declaration of Inde- 
pendence, 1776; 12. The Surrender of Cornwallis, 1781 ; 13. 
The Death of Tecumseh, 1813; 14. General Scott's Entry into 

i 



62 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

the City of Mexico, 1847; 15. The Discovery of Gold in 
California, 1848. 

For his share in the frieze, which occupied him during the years 
1869-80, Brumidi received approximately $25,000. Costaggini's work 
(1880-89), including the enlarged cartoons from Brumidi's designs, 
cost the government $10,084. It is not known what subject, if any, 
Brumidi had in mind for his final panel. The two designs offered by 
Costaggini were: _i. The Junction, May, 1869, of the Union and 
Central Pacific Railroads at Promontory Point, Utah, with Leland 
Stanford driving in the Golden Spikes which completed the iron bond 
between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans; 2. The Opening of the 
World's Fair at Chicago, 1893, with President Cleveland pressing the 
electric button, which set the wheels in motion. These designs were 
the subject of a vigorous debate in the Senate, in the course of which 
strong objection was made to an historical frieze "which omits George 
Washington and Abraham Lincoln and presents Mr. Cleveland, when 
we consider the respective positions of Mr. Lincoln and Mr. Cleveland 
during the Great War of the Rebellion." The work has remained 
at a standstill, and Brumidi's disfiguring platform and ladders liave 
been removed. 

Above the Frieze rises a loftly colonnade containing the 
lowest of the inner galleries. Between the columns, and 
completely encircling the gallery, are a series of spacious 
windows, the only means of lighting the Rotunda from with- 
out. From this colonnade springs the Dome, which contracts 
to a space of 50 ft., revealing another and lighter colonnade 
supporting the second gallery, just beneath the 65 ft. canopy 
which closes in the Dome at the base of the lantern. This 
canopy is occupied by Brumidi's great fresco : The Apotheosis 
of Washington, which will be described later in connection 
with the Ascent of the Dome (p. 64). 

Aside from Brumidi's frescoes, the only art works in the 
Rotunda are a few statues, some sculptures in high-relief 
and eight *Historic Paintings (18x12 ft.), four belonging to 
the Early Historical and four to the Revolutionary Period. 

The latter four, the work of Col. John Trunrbull (1756-1843) are 
of special interest, because of the number of authentic portraits which 
they contain. The artist, son of Gov. Jonathan Trumbull, of Conn., 
was for a time aide and military secretary to Washington. After the 
war, the young officer conceived the ambition to develop his natural 
artistic gift, "with the hope of thus binding his name to the great 
events of the Revolution, by becoming the graphic historiographer of 
them and of his comrades." He studied art in Europe; and while 
in London, painted John Adams, then Minister to England; and in 
Paris Thomas Jefferson, Minister to France; also, at Jefferson's house, 
the French officers whose portraits he would need for the Yorktown 
picture. Trumbull spent in all thirty years of preparation for these 
four pictures, which, in 1816, he was commissioned by Congress to 
paint. He received $8,000 each for them. The other four artists 
received respectively: Vanderlyn, Chapman and Weir. $10,000 each; 
Powell, $12,000. A comiilete key to the historical characters hangs 
below each picture. 



THE CAPITOL 63 

These paintings and sculptures may be seen in the follow- 
ing order, from R. to L., beginning at the W. of the north 
door : 

I. (Over N. doorway) William Penn making a Treaty 
with Delaware Indians, sandstone panel in high-relief, by N. 
Gevclot; 2. Washington, bronze bust, by David d'Angers; 
3. Washington Resigning his Commission (Annapolis, Dec. 
23d, 1783), painting by Trumbull; 4. Abraham Lincoln, mar- 
ble head, by Gutson Borglum; 5. Surrender of Cornwallis at 
Yorktown, painting, by Trumbull; 6. (above, in panel) Head 
of Sir Walter Raleigh: this and the other three heads to 
R. and L. of side doors, were the work of Causici and 
Capellano, executed in 1827; cost, $9,500; 7. Lincoln, marble 
statue, by Vinnie Ream Hoxie (1847-1914) ; bought by Con- 
gress for $15,000; 8. (over W. doorway) Pocahontas saving 
the Life of Captain John Smith, sandstone panel in high-relief, 
by Antonio Capellano; 9. Ulysses S. Grant, marble statue, by 
Franklin Simmons; 10. Surrender of General Burgoyne at 

I Saratoga, Oct. 17, 1777, painting by Trumbull; 11. (above) 

'Head of Columbus; 12. Alexander Hamilton, marble statue, 
by Horatio Stone; 13. Signing the Declaration of Independ- 
ence, Philadelphia, 1776, painting by Trumbull; 14. (above S. 
door) Conflict between Daniel Boone and the Indians, sandstone 

(panel in high-relief, by Enrico Causici; 15. Baptism of 
Pocahontas, painting by John G. Chapman; 16. Col. Edward 
D. Baker, of Oregon (b. 181 1; mortally wounded at Ball's 
Bluff, Oct. 21, 1861), marble statue by Horatio Stone; ly. 
Discovery of the Mississippi, painting by William H. Powell 
(1824-79); 18. (above) Head of La Salle; 19. Washington, 
plaster cast (after marble by Houdon), by William J. 

Hubard; 20. (above E. door) The Landing of the Pilgrims, 
sandstone panel in high-relief, by Enrico Causici; 21. Thomas 
JefTerson, bronze statue, by David d'Angers; 22. Landing of 
Columbus, painting, by John Vanderlyn (1776-1852) ; 23. 
(above) Head of Cabot; 24. Lafayette, marble bust by David 
^d'Angers; 25. The Embarkation of the Pilgrims, painting by 
Robert W. Weir (1803-89). 

,t_ Some little publicity has been given to so-called "amusing blunders" 
"in the Rotunda paintings, regarding which the visitor may decide for 
Ihimself. i. In "Washington Resigning his Commission," the two young 
Igirls with intertwined arms apparently have between them five hands 
'(reminiscent of the man with three hands in the famous frescoes in the 
Spanish Chapel, Florence). It is explained, however, that the fifth hand 
is that of the girls' father, Chsfrles Carroll of CarroUton. 2. In "The 
Baptism of Pocahontas," the; seated Indian has on one foot six distinct 
toes. Chapman's defenders claim that since he was "a draftsman of 
distinction," this particular Indian must have borne the degenerate 
stigma of a sixth toe. 3. In "The Landing of Columbus," the latter's val- 



64 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

iant company bear aloft three flags, each of which is blown in a different 
direction. Champions of the artist remind us that freakish winds some- 
times produce queer results. 

History. The chief historic associations of the Rotunda are in 
connection with the last honors paid to some of the country's greatest 
men. Here Lincoln lay in state April 19-21, 1865. Here Thaddeus 
Stevens lay in state Aug. 13-14, 1868, and was carried hence to 
be buried, -at his request, '"in a cemetery where black as well as 
white were admitted." Here Garheld lay in state Sept. 21-23, 1881, 
the funeral sermon being delivered by the Rev. F. D. Poweres of the 
V'ermont Ave. Christian Church (p. 221). Vice-President Logan here 
lay in state Dec. 30th, 1886. The coffin rested upon the same bier 
that had held' Lincoln^ Garfield, Chase^ Sumner and Stevens. Others 
whose remains have more recently rested on the historic Lincoln Bier 
are: William McKinley, Sept. 17, 1901; Pierre C. L'Enfant, April 28, 
1909; Admiral George Dewey, Jan, 20, 1917; the Unknown Soldier, 
Nov. 9-1 1, 1 92 1. 

The N. door of the Rotunda opens into a small circular 
colonnade, constituting the second story or balcony of a 
small basement rotunda open to the roof, and surmounted 
by a low dome and central skylight. This balcony floor is 
borne upon a series of massive buttresses and in turn upholds 
sixteen Corinthian columns upon which rests the dome. 
Note the capitals of these columns, representing tobacco 
leaves and blossoms (Francisco lardella, sculptor). In this 
colonnade, the S. E. door leads to public elevator and stair- 
way. At the foot of these stairs, just outside the basement 
entrance, in the arcade, is a *Bronze Tablet, erected in 1895. 
marking the location of the Corner-stone of the original 
Capitol, laid Sept. i8th, 1793, and commemorating the Cen- 
tenary Celebration in 1893. 

The opposite, or S. W,, door opens upon a winding stair- 
way by which the *Ascent of the Dome may be made. Open 
free, week-days from 9 a. m. to 3 :45 p. m. ; closed on Sun- 
days. These stairs presently open on a short passage and 
second door, plainly marked "To the Dome." Continuing 
the ascent the visitor reaches, at the 77th step, a third door 
opening outside upon a narrow platform, following the curve 
of the Rotunda wall. Zig-zag steps rising between the 
Rotunda and the Senate Wing lead to a fourth door, openinji 
upon the lowest inner gallery encircling the base of the 
Dome (128 steps from ground floor). This is the best point 
from which to study the Frieze (p. 61). 

The Dome rises from the level of this gallery, and con- 
sists of an inner and outer shell of iron, held together by 
a multitude of bars and bolts. Here the stairs curve steeply 
between the two shells, the steps partly overhanging like 
saw-teeth. At the 184th step, midway up the Dome, the first 
exterior balcony is reached; at the 240th, the upper inner: 



THE CAPITOL 65 

balcony, directly beneath the great *Canopy Fresco, Brumidi's 
masterpiece. 

This fresco, covering an area of 4664 ft. and costing the 
government $40,000, consists of a central group, The Apothe- 
osis of Washington, and six, surrounding symbolic groups. 
It is best studied in detail from this upper gallery. 

In the center is Washington, enthroned upon a rainbow 
and surrounded by brilliant clouds. On his right is the God- 
dess of Liberty; on his left are winged Fame and Victory. 
Half surrounding them are a semi-circle of female figures 
with joined hands, representing the original thirteen states. 
They are arranged geographically beginning on Washington's 
left: New Hampshire; Massachusetts; Rhode Island; Con- 
necticut; New York; New Jersey; Pennsylvania; Delaware; 
Maryland; Virginia; North Carolina; South Carolina and 
' Georgia. The leaves, blossoms and other ornaments worn 
' by the maidens represent the staple products of the several 
I states. 

j The six surrounding groups, from L. to R., beginning 
i with the lower group on Washington's left, are as follows : 
j 1st Group. War: Freedom with drawn sword aided by 

1 an eagle, has vanquished Tyranny and Oppression, who are 
i fleeing, accompanied by Anger, Revenge and Discord. 
' 2d Group. Agriculture : Ceres, Goddess of the Harvest, 
jsits in the center holding the Horn of Plenty. America, 
I wearing Liberty Cap, grasps the reins of a pair of fiery 
horses hitched to ,an American reaper. Beside Ceres stands 
'Pomona with a basket of fruit, while near the reaper kneels 
I Flora gathering flowers. 

I 3d Group. Mechanics : In the center stands Vulcan sur- 
I rounded by cannon-balls, mortars and other mechanical prod- 
jucts; he leans upon an anvil with his right foot resting on 
I a cannon. 

j 4th Group. Commerce : Mercury the patron of mer- 
I chants seated on a pile of bales and boxes, holds up a bag 
of gold to the gaze of Robert Morris, the Financier of the 
i Revolution. 

There is a touch of irony in this picture, when one reimembers • 
that_ after Morris guided his country safely through its financial diffi- 
culties, he himself died a bankrupt in a debtor's prison. 

5th Group. The Marine : Neptune in Royal state emerges 
from the deep seeking to discover what mighty event is tak- 
ing place. Below him Aphrodite is engaged in laying the 
(Atlantic cable which she has just received from a winged 
cherub. 



66 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

6th Group. The Arts and Sciences : Minerva armed with 
helmet and spear, stands in the center near an electrical ma- 
chine, the principles of which she is explaining to a group 
composed of Benjamin Franklin, Robert Fulton and Prof. 
Morse. 

In his later years Brumidi^ was charged, chiefly by the Southern 
press, with having caricatured in his frescoi the leaders of the Confed- 
eracy. This he always denied; and probably the likenesses are acci- 
dental. But in the ist group, representing War, the figures to the R. 
of Freedom, with her drawn sword, resemble Jefferson Davis, and 
Alexander H. Stephens, the President and Vice-President of the Con- 
federate States; while the two figures on the L. equally suggest Gen. 
Robert E. Lee and John B. Floyd, Sec. of War under Buchanan. 
The scene might well have been meant to symbolize the stamping out of 
the Rebellion. 

d. The Supreme Court Rooms 

Descending again to the starting point we may continue 
northward to the Supreme Court Lobby. It should be re- 
membered that we are now in the old Senate Wing, the first 
part of the Capitol to be completed (p. 52). The first door 
on the R. opens into the Supreme Court Room (the old 
Senate Chamber). An attendant at the door will admit visitors 
on all proper occasions. 

Supreme Court. This Hall, occupied since i860 by the 
Supreme Court of the United States, was originally the Senate 
Chamber. After its partial destruction by the British in 
1814, it was rebuilt by Latrobe from designs taken from 
ancient Greek theaters, and is admittedly one of the hand- 
somest rooms in the Capitol, It is semi-circular in form 
and its general resemblance, on a smaller scale, to the old 
Hall of Representatives cannot fail to be noticed. Its dimen- 
sions are : 75 ft. long, 45 ft. high and 45 ft. wide in the cen- 
ter. Along the rear of E. wall is a screen of columns and 
pillars of gray-green Potomac marble, supporting an en- 
tablature, above which is the historic Eastern Gallery. 
Pilasters of the same marble break the curve of the western 
wail. The ceiling, rising in a half dome, is ornamented with 
square caissons of stucco. The Hall is lighted by a large 
central sky-light. 

Between the central columns on the E. side, surmounted 
by a hovering eagle, formerly stood the chair of the President 
of the Senate; on the dais below him were the desks of the 
clerks, now replaced by the long "Bench" of the Supreme 
Court. The enclosed semi-circle, formerly occupied by the 
desks of the Senators, now constitutes the "Bar," reserved 
for the tables of the Attorney General, official reporters, 



THE CAPITOL 67 

stenographers and Council legally admitted to practice in 
United States courts. In the rear are seats for spectators. 
The additional iron galleries formerly above these seats 
have been removed ; and nothing now obstructs the view of 
the series of marble busts here placed, of former Chief 
Justices. These busts from N. to S. are as follows: 

I. Morrison R. Waite, 7th C. J., 1874-1888, by Augustus 
Saint-Gaudcns; 2. Roger B. Taney, 5th C. J., 1835-64; by 
Saint-Gaudens; 3. Oliver Ellsworth, 3d C J., 1796-99; by 
Hezekiah Augur (1791-1858); 4. John Jay, ist C. J., 1789-95, 
by John Frasce; 5. John Rutledge, 2d C. J., 1795, by 
Alexander Gait (1827-63) ; 6. John Marshall, 4th C. J., 1801- 
35, by Hiram Powers; 7. Salmon P. Chase, 6th C. J., 1865- 
73, by T. D. Jones; 8. Melville W. Fuller, 8th C. J., 1888-1910, 
by William Ordway Partridge. 

' History. In point of historic interest this chamber is probably 

; the most important in the Capitol building. Here Jefferson twice deliv- 
ered his inaugural address and took the Oath of Office, both times in 
J the presence of Chief Justice Marshall. Here in Oct., 1803, the Senate 
, confirmed the Treaty with Napoleon I, by which the United S'tates 
' acquired the vast territory known as the "Louisiana Purchase." _ Here 
! the Senate sat, Dec. 2, 1823. when Monroe sent to Congress his historic 
I message formulating the "Monroe Doctrine." Here in 1830 took place 
the famous debate between Webster of Massachusetts, and Hayne of 
I South Carolina, in the course of which Webster gave utterance to his 
, famous phrase, "Liberty and Union, now and forever, one and insep- 
' arable." It was in this room that Calhoun, Clay and Webster, in 
their old age, made their farewell speeches, and two of the three soon 
afterwards lay here in state, Calhoun's funeral taking place April 2d, 
1850, and that of Clay July ist 1852. On May 22d, 1856, the old 
' Senate was the scene of an assault upon Sumner by Brooks, a Member 
of the House, who struck him over the head with/ a cane, inflicting 
injuries from which the aged Senator was slow to recover. In Feb., 
, 1877, the Bench of the Supreme Court was occupied by the Electoral 
I Commission which here decided the Hayes-Tilden contested election, 
declaring Hayes President. Among the many cases argued before the 
; Supreme Court since its occupancy of this chamber in i860, that which 
probably aroused the greatest public interest was the Income Tax Case, 
argued in March, 1895, by Richard Olney, then Attorney General, and 
Joseph H. Choate, resulting in a vote of 5 to 4 declaring the statute 
J unconstitutional. 

] On the opposite side of the Supreme Court Lobby, .jtJe- 
hind a screen of monolithic columns of Potomac marble, are 
! the Offices of the Clerk of the Supreme Court. These offices 
I are not open to the general public; but a request to enter 
*' them will usually be granted. The iriner, or private office 
I (entered through N. W. door in main office), contains several 
J interesting old portraits of former Clerks of the Court: 

I North Wall: i. James H. McKenney, by Albert Rosenthal (b. 

.1863); 2. Samuel Bayard, Clerk 1791-94, Artist Unknown. 3. John 
i Tucker, portrait by Charles Armcr. after Gilbert Stuart ; 4. William 
I Griffith, by Harold L. MacDonald (b. 1861). 



68 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

East Wall: 5. E. B. Caldwell, by Albert Rosenthal; 6. Plaster 
bust of James M. Wayne (1790-1867), Assoc. Justice S. C. 

South Wall: 7. William T. Carroll, Clerk 18-7-62, by Rufus 
Wright; 8. Daniel Wesley Middleton, by Thomas Hicks. 

Following the main corridor N. from the Supreme Court 
Lobby towards the Senate Wing, we pass (ist door on L.) 
the Supreme Court Robing Room. Here the Justices assume 
their voluminous black silk gowns, the only relic in the United 
States of the traditional costume of the English Judiciary. 
On each court day, just a minute before 12 o'clock, led by 
the Chief Justice, they file across to the Lobby which leads 
to the Bench. At such times the Court Messengers stop 
traffic by stretching crimson cords across the corridor. The 
Robing Room is not open to the general public, and the visitor 
should welcome any chance opportunity to inspect it. In the 
Vestibule may be seen, behind glass doors, the heavy silk 
robes of the Justices, each of whom provides his own; also, 
in S. E. cor., a quaint old mirror dating back to the time of 
Madison. In the Robing Room are several important por- 
traits of former Chief Justices : 

South Wall (R. to L.) : i. Roger B. Taney (C. J. 1836- 
64), by George P. A. Healy (presented by the Washington 
Bar Association) ; 2. John jay (C. J. 1789-94), copied from 
Gilbert Stuart (presented by the Justice's grandson, John Jay, 
late Minister to Austria)'; 3. Oliver Ellsworth (C. J. 
1796-99), by Charles L. Elliott (the features were copied 
from a family group by R. Earle, now in Windsor, Conn.) 
4. John Marshall (C. J. 1801-35), by John B. Marten. 

West W^^ll: 5. Melville W. Fuller (C. J. 1888-1910), 
by Albert Rosenthal. 

East Wall: (R. to L.) : 6. Morrison R. Waite (C. J. 
1874-88), by Cornelia Adele Fassettj above: 7. John Rut- 
ledge (appointed 1795, but never confirmed), by Robert 
Hinckley, from a miniature by John Trumbull; 8. Salmon P. 
Chase (C. J. 1865-73), by JVilliam Cogswell (1819-1903). 

North Wall: 9. *John Marshall (C. J. 1801-35), by Rem- 
brandt Peale. This portrait was presented by the Bar of 
New York to Cbief Justice Chase, and bequeathed by him 
to the Supreme Court. 

The furniture is of historic interest, many of the chairs 
having come from the old Continental Hall in Philadelphia. 
The Justices not infrequently are dissatisfied with the chairs 
assigned them on the Bench and exchange them for others. 
Some of the chairs in this room still bear the cards of for- 
mer Justices. 



THE CAPITOL 69 

e. The Senate Wing 

Continuing N. along the main corridor, we next reach 
the North or Senate Wing, entering first the main Senate 
Lobby. Opposite the corridor is the principal doorway to 
the Senate Chamber. Formerly visitors were allowed on the 
floor of the Senate until 11 145 A. M., or fifteen minutes 
before the Houses convene. This privilege, however, was 
stopped about fifteen years ago, and no visitor can enter un- 
less taken in by a Senator. 

The Lobby contains a number of portraits ; also marble 
busts of former vice-presidents, supplementing the collection 
in the Senate galleries. They are placed in the following 
order, beginning at the S. E. corner: 

East Wall: i. John C. Calhoun, portrait, by Henry F. 
Darby (b. about 1831) ; 2. Henry Clay, portrait, by Darby. 

North Wall: 3. James S. Sherman, bust, by Bessie Pot- 
ter Vonnoh (1872- ) ; 4. Daniel Webster, portrait, by John 
N eagle (1796-1865) ; 5. Theodore Roosevelt, bust, by James E. 
Fraser (1876- ) ; 6. William B. Allison, portrait, by Wilbur 

A. Reaser; 7. Adlai E. Stevenson, bust, by Franklin Sivt- 
tnons; 8. Levi P. Morton, bust, by Frank Edzvin Elwell 
(1858- ) ; 9. Abraham Lincoln, portrait, by Freeman Thorp; 
10. Garrett A. Hobart, bust, by Ehvell; 11. *George Wash- 
ington, by Gilbert Stuart (purchased hy Congress in 1876 for 
$1200) ; 12. Charles W. Fairbanks, bust, by Franklin Sim- 
mons. 

West Wall : 13. Thomas Jefferson, portrait, by Thomas 
Sully (1783-1872) ; 14. Patrick Henry, portrait, by George 

B. Matfhezvs (1857- ). 

South Wall : 15. John Adams, copy by E. F. Andreivs 
((1835-1915), of portrait by Stuart; 16. John Langdon, por- 
trait, by Hattie E. Burdette; 17. Justin S. Morrill, portrait, 
by Eastman Johnson; 18. Charles Sumner, portrait, by W. 
Ingalls. 

To R. of entrance stands a venerable mahogany clock, 
installed in 1803. Note on the front of case the seventeen 
stars, emblematic of the first seventeen states, the latest of 
which to be admitted was Ohio, in 1802. 

The Senate Gallery is reached by either of the two 
Grand Stairways, at the E. and W. end respectively of the 
Senate Wing. At the foot of the West Stairway stands a 
marble statue of John Hancock, by Horatio Stone (1808-75). 
Opposite, above the stairway landing is a large painting. The 
Battle of Chapultepec, by James Walker (1819-89). It rep- 
resents the storming of the old castle by the American army. 



70 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

under General Scott, September 13th, 1847, It was painted 
originally for the Committee-room of Military Affairs of 
the House, a fact which explains the curve of the upper 
corners. 

Facing the stairs on the next or Gallery floor, hangs a 
full-length portrait of ♦Washington, by Charles IVilson 
Pcale. The portrait was begun in 1778, when Washington 
was forty-six years old, but was not finished until after the 
battles of Trenton, Princeton and Monmouth. At the latter 
place, Washington suggested that a good background for the 
picture was afforded by the view from the window of the 
framehouse where they then sat. Accordingly Alonmouth 
Court-House was added, together with a party of Hessians 
leaving under guard of American troops. Later Old Nassau 
College v/as also included, at Princeton, where the painting 
was finished. A replica, now in Versailles, was executed by 
the artist in fulfilment of a commission from Louis XVI 
through Lafayette. 

The Gallery corridors extend around the four sides of 
the Senate Chamber, excepting at the northwest corner, 
which is reserved for the use of members of the Press. 
The doors on the outer sides of the corridors open into 
various committee rooms; those on the inner sides give 
entrance to the various sections of the Senate Gallery. In a 
niche in N. wall of E. Senate corridor is the marble bust of 
Vice-President • Thos. R. Marshall (1913-21), by Moses A. 
IVainer. 

The Senate Chamber is a spacious hall, 113 ft. long 
and 80 ft. wide, inclusive of the galleries which extend 
around the four sides. The space beneath these galleries is 
occupied on the north side by the Senate Lobby (p. '/2>) 5 O'^ the 
other three sides by cloak-rooms for the Senators. The 
floor area is thus diminished to 84 by 51 ft. The height of 
ceiling is 36 ft. The walls are of marble and are paneled 
by pilasters grouped in pairs. The doors, desks and chairs 
are of mahogany. Note especially the high-backed and 
richly carved chair of the President of the. Senate, presented 
originally to Vice-President Hobart. The ceiling is flat and 
constructed of iron girders inclosing broad panels of stained 
glass, the designs symbolizing : War, Peace, Union, Progress 
and the various Arts, Sciences and Industries. 

History. In the Senate Chamber every four years, on 
March 4th, the Vice-President-elect takes the oath of office 
which is usually administered by the retiring Vice-President 
in the presence of the President, the President-elect and 



THE CAPITOL 



71 



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Aaaoi Nd3isYS 



dooa aavo 

WOOa N0lid303U 



72 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

members of the Senate and the House. This ceremony 
takes place immediately before the inauguration of the 
President In this chamber are ratified all treaties made by 
the United Stated with foreign powers. Here, in March, 
1868, began the famous impeachment trial of President John- 
son, culminating, on May loth, with the President's acquittal. 
It was in the Senate Chamber that the funeral of Chief 
Justice Chase took place, May 12th, 1873; and here also the 
funeral ceremonies of Charles Sumner, March 13th, 1874. 

The visitor should note that there are no portraits, paint- 
ings or mural frescoes in the Senate Chamber. This is in 
accordance with a unanimous resolve passed. Feb. 15th, 1884, 
to the effect that "no paintings or portraits be placed upon 
the walls of the Senate Chamber." The set of marble busts 
of former Vice-Presidents, described below, was specifically 
authorized by a resolution passed May 13th, 1886. 

The Gallery of the Senate Chamber completely sur- 
rounds the four sides, and is partitioned oft into eight sec- 
tions ; four occupy the middle of their respective sides and 
the other four the corners. *The Ladies' Gallery is in the 
S. corridor; the Men's Gallery occupies two sections at the 
S. W. and N. \V. cors. ; the Diplomatic Gallery is in the 
middle of the S. side, directly opposite the Press Gallery, 
which is above and behind the desk of the President of the 
Senate; in the middle of the E. end is the Senator's Gal- 
lery. The remaining two sections are marked "Reserved 
Gallery." While Congress is in Session, access may be had 
during the early morning hours to all these galleries ex- 
cepting that reserved for the Press, the only entrance to 
which is through the private Press rooms. This is the only 
time when the visitor has an opportunity to examine at 
close hand the series of marble busts of the first twenty 
Vice-Presidents of the United States, some of which are of 
admirable workmanship. They do not run in chronological 
order but, starting on the middle of the N. side, have been 
added alternatively R. and L. The following is a list of these 
busts, from L. to R., including date of office, sculptor and 
the respective section of the gallery including each : 

Press Gallery (North Wall, center) : i. John Adams. 
1789-97, by Daniel Chester French; 2. Thomas Jefiferson. 
1797-1801, by Moses Ezekiel (1844-1917) ; Reserved Gallery: 

3. George Clinton. 1805-13. by Vittorio A. Ciani (i 858-1 908 ) ; 

4. Daniel C. Tompkins, 1817-25. by Charles H. Niehaus; 
rEast Wall) 5. Martin Van Buren, 1833-37. by U. S. J. 
Dunbar; Senator's Gallery: 6. John Tyler, 1841,'by William 



THE CAPITOL 73 

C. McCausIen; 7- Millard Fillmore, 1849-50, by H. J. ElU- 
cott; Ladies' Gallery: 8. John C. Breckinridge, 1857-61, by 
James F. Voorhees (1855—) ; (South Wall) : 9. Andrew 
Johnson, 1865, by JVilliam C. McCausIen; 10. William A. 
Wheeler, 1877-81, bv Edzi'ard Clark Potter; Diplomatic Gal- 
lery: II. Thomas A. Hendricks. 1885-89; by U. S. J. Dun- 
bar; 12. Chester A. Arthur, 1881, by Augustus Saint-Gau- 
dens; Men's Gallery : 13. Schuyler Colfax, 1869-73, by Frances 
M. Goodwin; 14. Hannibal Hamlin, 1861-03, by Franklin Sim- 
mons; (West Wall) : 15. William R. King, i8"53-57, by W. C 
McCausIen; Reserved Gallerv: 16, George ^L Dallas, 1845-49. 
by H. J. EUicott; 17. Richard M. Johnson. 1837-41. by /. P. 
Voorhees; Men's Gallerv: 18. John C Calhoun, 1825-33, by 
Theodore A. Mills; (North Wall) : 19. Elbridge Gerry, 1813- 
17, by Herbert Adams: 20. Aaron Burr, 1801-05, by Jacques 
Jouvenal (1829-1905). 

In South Corridor, East Wall, are two historical paintings 
by John Blake IVhite, of Charleston. S. C (1781-1850) : 
I : The Battle of Fort Moultrie, Fought and ^^'on June 25, 
1776; 2. Sergeants Jasper and Newton rescuing American 
Prisoners from a Squad of British, near Savannah, Ga. 

South Wall: i. Portrait of Hon. Henry Latimer, M.D., 
bv Clau'son S. Hammitt ; 2. Portrait of Hon. James Latimer, 
by Hammitt (both presented by Mary R. Latimer). 

In the E. Corridor, facing the E. Grand Stairway, hangs 
The Recall of Columbus, by Augustus George Heat on (b. 
1844). painted in 1883. and reproduced on the 50c. postage 
stamp of the Columbian series of 1893. 

North of the stairway is a spacious Lobby, with win- 
dows on E. overlooking the Plaza, and door on W. opening 
into the gallerv^ reserved for Senators' families and friends. 
This lobbv contains a number of interesting portraits and 
busts. From R. to L., beginning on S. wall: i. Count K. 
K. Pulaski, marble bust, by Henryk Dmochozi'ski (1810-63); 

2. Charles Sumner, bust, by Martin Millmore (1844-82); 

3. Garibaldi, bust, by Giuseppe Martegana; E. Wall: 4. 
Zachary Taylor, bust^ Artist Unknown; 5. (above) James J. 
Garfield, mosaic portrait, by Antonio Salz'i-ati (1816-90), best 
known as having revived the making of Venetian glass at 
JMurano. i860) 6. Aysh-ke-bah-ke-ko-shay. "Flat-Mouth." a 
Chippewa Chief, bust, by Francis Vincenti; 7. (above) Abra- 
ham Lincoln, mosaic portrait, by Sahiati; 8. Be-sheck-kee, 
Indian marble bust, by Vincenti; N. Wall: 9. Tadeusz 
Kosciuszco, marble bust, by H. D. Saunders (pseudonym of 
Henryk Dmochowski) ; 10. Ckn. John A. Dix. portrait by 



74 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Imogene R. Morcll (d. 1908) ; Gen. Dix is best remembered 
for his famous order, "If anyone attempts to haul down the 
American flag, shoot him on the spot!" 11. *The Florida 
Case before the Electoral Commission, Feb. 5th, 1877, by 
Mrs. Cornelia Adele Fassctt (1831-98), painted from life 
sittings in 1877-79 in the U. S. Supreme Court Room, and 
portraying a session of the Commission appointed to decide 
the disputed Hayes-Tilden Presidential Election; 12. Abra- 
ham Lincoln, bust by Mrs. Sarah E. Ames (1817-1901) ; a 
replica is in the State Capitol, Boston, Mass. 

To the N. of this lobby is a smaller Hall, from which 
a Ladies' Retiring Room, with woman attendant, opens on 
the R. This Hall contains two celebrated paintings by 
Thomas Moran (b. 1837) : E. Wall, The Chasm of the 
Colorado; W. Wall, The Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone; 
bought by the Government for $10,000 each; S. Wall, Table 
Rock, Niagara, by F. Regis Gignoux (1816-82) ; Thomas 
Crawford, marble bust, by Tommaso GagUardi. 

A noted picture, which formerly hung in this room, is 
The First Fight of Ironclads, by William F. Halsall (b. 1841), 
representing the battle between the Monitor and Mcrrimac. 
It was purchased by the Government in 1877, at a cost of 
$15,000, and formed the only exception to the rule that no 
reminder of the Civil War should be displayed in the Capi- 
tol. This painting is now (1922) temporarily in storage and 
not on exhibition. 

The visitor may now return to the East Stairs (of Ten- 
nessee marble) ; above the middle landing hangs The Battle 
of Lake Erie, by IVilliatn Henry Pozcell (1824-79) ; this 
picture represents Commodore Oliver B. Perry transferring 
himself and his flag, while under fire, from his disabled 
flagship, the Lawrence, to the Niagara, Sept. 13th, 1813. The 
original and much smaller painting was executed by Powell 
in 1863 for the State Capitol, Ohio; this enlarged replica 
was ordered by Congress, at a cost of $25,000. It is said 
that the faces of the sailors were copied from former well- 
known employees about the Capitol. 

Facing the foot of the staircase is a Marble statue of Ben- 
jamin Franklin, by Hiram Powers (1805-88), the cost of 
which was $10,000. 

North of this staircase, on the main floor, the E. corri- 
dor leads to a handsome hallway forming the east approach 
to the Senate Chamber. This hall contains sixteen *Fluted 



THE CAPITOL 75 

Columns of Italian marble, supporting a ceiling of the same. 
The capitals of these columns, in which the conventional 
acanthus leaves are replaced by the tobacco leaf, have been 
cleverly termed the ''Americanized Corinthian order of 
Architecture." This hallway leads to the eastern Portico of 
the Senators' Wing. This entrance is usually closed when 
Congress is not in Session. If open, the visitor should avail 
himself of the opportunity of inspecting the *Senafc Bronze 
Doors, without the necessity of climbing the outer stair- 
case. 

The5:e doors were designed by Thomas Crawford, who 
also modeled the figures in the pediment above this entrance. 
They constitute the sculptor's last work, for which he re- 
ceived $6000. The plaster models, executed in Rome by 
William H. Rinehart, cost $8940, while the casting of the 
doors (weight 14.000 pounds), by James T. Ames at Chico- 
pee, Mass. (1868), cost $50,500. It was the first casting of 
the kind in America. Each valve of this door consists of 
three panels and a medallion. The panels portray events 
taken from the Revolutionary War and the Life of Wash- 
ington : 

1. Right or North Door: a. Upper panel: Death of 
General Warren at the Battle of Bunker Hill, 1775; b. 
Middle panel: The rebuke of Gen. Charles Lee by General 
Washington at the Battle of Monmouth, N. J., 17/8; c. 
Lower panel: The storming of the redoubt at Yorktown by 
Alexander Hamilton, 1781 ; Below : d. Medallion symboliz- 
ing War : Conflict between a Hessian soldier and a New 
Jersey farmer. 

2. Left or South Door: (from bottom upward): e. 
Medallion symbolizing Peace and Agriculture ; f . Lower 
panel: Washington passing through an Arch of Flowers. 
Trenton. N. J., on his way to his Inauguration in New 

I York, 1789; g. Middle panel: Washington taking the Oath 
of Ofifice, administered by Chancellor Livingston; h. Upper 
panel : Laying the Corner Stone of the Capitol, Sept. i8th, 
1793- 

Above the Portico are two reclining female figures of 

I marble in high relief .symbolizing (R.) Justice; (L.) History. 

I These also were designed by Crawford and executed in 

( Italy, the sculptor receiving $3000. 

' From the Senate Vestibule, N. W. cor., the visitor enters 

; the Public Reception Room, an ornate apartment consisting 



7$ RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

of two almost square alcoves, both profusely decorated by 
Brnmidi. In the northern alcove the ceiling contains four 
panels, each occupied by a symbolic female figure: N., 
Freedom, holding American shield, fasces and the Declara- 
tion of Independence ; W., War, w^ith sword and shield and 
starred helmet surmounted by tri-colored plume; S., Agri- 
culture, with fruits of the Harvest; E., Peace, bearing an 
olive branch. 

South Alcove: Note on ceiling, central group of three 
cupids bringing together the three colors of the National 
flag. In the corners are symbolized four virtues : N. E., 
Prudence, studying the future with the aid of a mirror 
which reflects the past; N. W., 'Fortitude, with drawn 
sword ; S. W., Temperance, holding bridle and bit, emblems 
of restraint; S. E., Justice, holding scales. On the S. wall 
is an historic painting in oils, also by Briimidi, representing 
♦Washington consulting with Two Members of his First 
Cabinet (Jefferson, Sec. of State and Hamilton, Sec. of the 
Treasury). 

The Room of the Scrqcant-at-Arms adjoins the N. 
alcove on the E. Brumidi's decorations of this room consist 
of: I. A vivid center-piece on the ceiling symbolizing Re- 
construction, consisting of a group of female figures wel- 
coming back the erring sister; 2. On the four walls, under 
the arches, allegorical designs in chiaroscuro, imitating alto- 
relievo: E., Secession, represented by the breaking of the 
Fasces, while on the opposite sides lie respectively cotton and 
corn, the rival products of the two sections; S., War, with 
Engines of Strife; W., The Fasces once more united, with 
motto E Fluribus Unum and eagle; N., The implements of 
War are being broken and exchanged for Peace. 

The room S. of the Sergeant-at-Arms, now used by the 
Committee on the District of Columbia, is not usually open 
to the general public; but some obliging attendant will some- 
times unlock the door upon request. This was formerly the 
Senate Post Office, for which Brumidi designed the follow- 
ing appropriate frescoes containing symbolic figures : S., 
History, holding scroll ; E., Geography, with globe ; N., 
Transportation, with steam engine ; W., The Telegraph, 
two figures holding a connecting wire. 

From the Reception Room a door on the W. opens into 
a private corridor, extending along the N. side of the Senate 
Chamber, and opening into three rooms of special interest: 
the Vice-President's Room, the Senate Retiring Room and 
the President's Room. Formerly these rooms could be seen, 



78 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

while Congress was in Session, only by card from a Senator ; 
at present (iQ-^2) they are open to the public during the 
morning hours. 

Entering this passage we reach (First door on R.) the 
Vice-President's Roem. This chamber, in decoration the 
plainest of the Senate series, has numerous historic associa- 
tions. Here on Nov. 22d, 1875, Vice-President Henry b. 
Wilson died; and here also Sept. 22, 1881, in the presence 
of General Grant, Garfield's Cabinet, Senators, Representa- 
tives and justices of the Supreme Court, Chester A. Arthur 
took the oath of office administered by Chief Justice Waite. 

In this room on E. wall hang: i. Rembrandt Peak's 
♦Portrait of Washington which, in 1829, was exhibited and 
much admired in the principal cities of Europe. Purchased 
by the United States in 1832 for $2000; 2. (L.) Henry 
Wilson, marble bust by Daniel Chester French; 3- Lafayette 
S. Foster (acting Vice-President during Johnson's term), 
marble bust by Charles Calverly (1833-1914). 

The much admired French clock was acquired during 
the term of President Polk; the book-case on the W. side 
dates from the term of President Buchanan. The closet 
in the S. E. cor. contains an antique mirror purchased, ac- 
cording to tradition, by John Adams. 

Immediately adjoining the Vice-President's Room on 
the W. is the Senate Retiring Room, one of the richest and 
most costly apartments in the Capitol. It consists of a cen- 
tral chamber and two vestibules, the former being 38 ft- 
long, 21^ ft. wide and 19K ft- high. The floor is of marble 
mosaic; the walls, where not adorned with large mirrors, 
are veneered with variegated Tennessee marble, and the 
panelled marble ceiling is supported by four Corinthian col- 
umns of pure white Italian marble, — thus justifying the 
popular name of the Marble Room. In the eastern vestibule 
is a small bronze bust of Lincoln, by Albert de Grout. 

*The President's Room. This square and compara- 
tively small apartment is one of the show places of the 
Capitol. The walls are adorned with large mirrors, and, 
like the ceiling, are covered with frescoes by Brumidi. In 
this room it has been the custom since the days of Andrew 
Johnson (with the exception of Grover Cleveland), for the 
"President to sit during the last day of each Congressional Ses- 
sion for the purpose of signing bills of an urgent nature. 

On the walls, in hexagonal panels, are medallion por- 
traits of Washington's First Cabinet: S. wall, Jefferson, 
Secretary of State and Osgood, Postmaster General; E. 



THE CAPITOL 79 

wall, Henry Knox, Secretary of War, and Alexander Hamil- 
ton. Secretary of the Treasury; W. wall, Edmund Randolph, 
Attorney General. 

On the S. wall, under the arch of the ceiling, is a por- 
trait of Washington (by Brumidi after Rembrandt Peale) 
with a reclining female figure on each side: L., Peace; R., 
Victory holding shield with inscription, "Boston, Trenton, 
Princeton, Monmouth, Yorktown." 

The ceiling decorations consist of four symbolic groups : 
N., Religion, veiled and holds a Bible; W., Legislature, 
who holds a sword and teaches children the Constitution; 
S., Liberty, holding a shield and fasces; E., Executive Au- 
thority, holding a sceptre and book of statutes. Between 
these are four corner-pieces, containing fresco portraits : 
S. E., Columbus {Discovery) ; N. W., Americus Vespucius 
{Exploration) ; S. W., Benjamin Franklin (History) ; N. E., 
William Brewster (Relic/ion). 

In the southwest corner is a bronze bust of McKinley, 
by Emma C. Guild. In this room, Dec. i8th, 1876, King 
Kalakaua of the Hawaiian Islands had an audience. An 
announcement of his presence was made in the Senate, a 
recess was promptly taken, and all the Senators were indi- 
vidually presented to the King. 

f. The Ground Floor 

We have now reached the Western Corridor, which leads 
back to the Western Grand Staircase. Here we may descend, 
if we wish, to the ground floor of the Capitol, a portion of 
the building usually overlooked by tourists, and habitually 
omitted by the official guides. Pictorially, however, it is one 
of the most interesting sections of the whole structure, since 
here through a space of ten years Brumidi, then in his prime, 
exercised his fertile imagination and versatile brush in 
adorning the corridors and many of the Committee rooms, 
with vivid frescoes. His work has suffered from neglect, 
and from too lavish an application of soap and sand (al- 
though luckily the cleaner's zeal usually ceased within easy 
arm-reach). In a few Committee rooms the frescoes have 
been painted out to satisfy the simple taste of certain Sena- 
tors, partial to blank walls. For example : in what was 
once the room of the Committee on Territories (N. corridor, 
first door on L., east of W. corridor) the only surviving 
memorial of what was once a lavishly decorated room is 
the large and richly decorated bronze chandelier embellished 
with buffaloes, Indian heads and various other symbols of 
the far West. 



THE CAPITOL St 

West Basement Corridor, S. to N. : In lunettes above 
the two entrances to the Interstate Commerce Committee 
Room (formerly Indian Affairs) are frescoes representing: 
I. Columbus and an Indian maiden; 2. Las Casas, mis- 
sionary to the Indians. Opposite (W. side), in lunette above 
door to Committee on Rules, Authority consults the Written 
Law, while Justice holds the Scales. Beyond, above door to 
Committee on Appropriations, lunette showing America sur- 
rounded with cannon and stacked arms. At intervals along 
the walls are medallion portraits, including John Hancock, 
Francis Hopkinson, Robert R. Livingston, John Jay, Roger 
Sherman, Charles Thomson, Robert Morris and Charles Car- 
roll. 

The room of the Committee on Appropriations (origi- 
nally Military Affairs) contains five historic frescoes: W. 
wall, I. The Boston massacre, 1770; S. wall, 2. The Battle 
of Lexington, 1775; 3. Washington at Valley Forge, 1778; E. 
wall, 4. The Storming of Stony Point by Anthony Wayne, 
1779; N. wall, 5. The Death of General Wooster during the 
British Invasion of Connecticut, 1777. 

The northern end of the_ west corridor has come to be 
known as the Pompeiian Corridor, because here Brumidi imi- 
tated, not only the designs, but the distinctive coloring of 
Pompeiian frescoes. The visitor should note the undimmed 
brilliance of the deep reds and blues. 

North Corridor, W. to E. The wall medallions in this 
corridor include: Thomas Jefferson, Benjamin Franklin, 
Richard Montgomery, Joseph Warren, Thomas Mififlin, Silas 
Deane, Horatio Gates, Israel Putnam., Jonathan Trumbull 
and Daniel Webster. On N. side are two lunettes: i. 
Above entrance to Committee on Patents (originally Terri- 
tories Room) represents: Negotiations for the Louisiana 
Purchase (April 30th, 1803) ; 2. Over last door on L. (origi- 
nally Committee on Foreign Relations) fresco copied from 
West's painting, "Signing the Articles of Peace, 1782,'* con- 
taining portraits of Richard Oswald, signer for Great Britain ; 
John Adams, Benjamin Franklin, John Jay and Henry Lau- 
rens, for the United States. 

The north corridor is intersected midway by a central 
corridor, at the N. end of which are fresco portraits of 
Kent, Livingston and Story. 

The north corridor opens at E. end into a small pa- 
vilion. Over the door of Committee on Foreign Relations 
(formerly Post Offices and Post Roads) is Benjamin Frank- 
Im, father of the postal system, seated in his laboratory. 



82 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Above second door is Fulton, inventor of the steamboat; and 
diagonally opposite is John Fitch, a forerunner of Fulton, 
working on a model of a steamboat. 

The above form the more noteworthy details in these frescoed 
passages, in which every wall-space is overlaid with arabesques, tracer- 
ies of vines, foliage and fruit; animals and birds; allegorical figures 
and landscapes. From the northern corridor, private staircases ascend 
to the Senate Lobby. The richly wrought bronze stair-rails, and the 
corresponding ones in the House basement, were modeled by Charles 
Baiidin, a French sculptor. Some details, such as the eagles, deer and 
cherubs, were designed by Brumidi. They were cast by Archer, 
I'Varner, Miskey & Co. at a cost of over $22,000. 

Returning to the central corridor, we may proceed S., 
passing, on L., the public restaurant (p. 7). To the E. of 
the small rotunda (p. 64) is the entrance to the Senate Law 
Library, containing a bas-.relief group by Franzoni, and 
a marble bust of Justice Story, by W . \V . Storv (1819- 

95). 

Continuing S., we enter, directly beneath the great Ro- 
tunda, the so-called Crypt, a circular chamber with a colon- 
nade of forty Doric columns, modeled after the Temple at 
Paestum. These columns are surmounted by groined arches 
supporting the floor above. The exact center of the Capitol 
building is indicated by a star in the pavement. To the east 
is the Suffrage Group presented by American women: A 
rough marble pedestal surmounted by busts of Lucretia Mott, 
Susan B. Anthony and Elizabeth Cady Stanton, the work of 
Adelaide Johnson. The sub-basement, below this crypt, was 
originally planned to contain the tomb of George Washington. 
Since 1865 it has been the receptacle of the bier used to sustain 
the coffin of AT^raham Lincoln and other notable Americans 
who have lain in state in the Capitol. 

Immediately S. of the crypt are the offices of the Chief 
Clerk of the House. In the N. E. room of this suite was 
situated the Washington terminus of Morse's first telegraph 
line, connecting Washington with the Railway station on 
Pratt St., Baltimore. Here, on May 24th, 1842. IVIiss Annie 
G. Ellsworth, daughter of Henry L. Ellsworth, then Com- 
missioner of Patents, sent the first telegraphic message, 
"What hath God wrought!" The strip of paper on which 
the telegraphic characters of this message were printed is 
now in the Athenaeum, Hartford, Conn. 

The basement of the House Wing is traversed by a noble 
hallway, flanked by thirty monolithic Corinthian columns, the 
capitols of which are said to have been modeled from those 
of the Temple of the Winds, at Athens, with this modifica- 



THE CAPITOL 83 

tion, that the upper order of acanthus leaves has been re- 
placed by American tobacco. 

The only Committee room of special interest in the 
House basement is that of the *Coimnittee on Agriculture, 
S. of the W. public staircase. The frescoes in this room 
(1855) constitute the first work done by Brumidi in the Cap- 
itol. On the ceiling are the Four Seasons : Spring S3''mbol- 
ized by Flora, Summer by Ceres, Autumn by Bacchus, \\'inter 
by Boreas. On E. wall : Cincinnatus called from the Plough 
to become Dictator of Rome. W. wall : Putnam called from the 
Plough to join the Revolution. S. wall: Above, medallion of 
Washington ;, below, Harvest Scene in Olden Times. N. wall: 
Above, medallion of Jefferson; below, Harvest Scene with 
Modern Implements. 

g. The House Wing 

Ascending the western staircase to the main floor of the 
House of Representatives, we reach a series of corridors 
similar to those in the Senate Wing (p. 69), with doors 
on the outer sides opening upon Committee rooms, and 
those on the inner sides giving access to the floor of the 
House. As in the case of the Senate, the floor is now closed 
to visitors, unless accompanied by a member (a description 
of the House as seen from the Visitoirs' Gallery is given 
on p. 85). 

Proceeding S., on W. corridor, we reach, on L., what is 
collectively known as the Speaker's Lobby'. It consists of 
a spacious and ornamental parlor, extending along the S. 
side of the House Wing, together with the corridor separ- 
ating it from the House. This corridor contains a collec- 
tion of portraits of former Speakers of the House, as 
follows : 

South Wall (west vestibule), i. Nathaniel Alacon, N. C. 
(1758-1837), Speaker, 7th, 8th, and 9th Congresses, by R. D. 
Gauley; 2. Michael C. Kerr, Ind. (1827-76), Speaker, 44th 
Congress, by Charles A. Gray (1857 ). 

South Wall (Lobby corridor), 3. James G. Blaine, Me. 
(1830-93), Speaker, 41st, 42d and 43d Congresses, bv Free- 
man Thorp (1844- ); 4. Schuyler Colfax, Ind. (1823-85), 
Speaker, 38th, 39th and 40th Congresses, by Freeman Thorp; 
5. William Pennington (1796-1862), Speaker, 36th Congress, 

by Joseph Lauber (1885 ) ; 6. James L. Orr, S. C. (1822- 

72), Speaker 35th Congress, by Esther Edmonds (1888 ); 

7. Linn Boyd, Ky. (1800-59), Speaker 32d and 33d Con- 
gresses, by Stanley Grant Middleto'n (1852 ); 8. Howell 



.S4 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Cobb, Ga. (1815-68), Speaker 31st Congress, by Lucy Stanton 

(1875 ); 9. John W. Davis, Ind. (i799-i859), Speaker 

29th Congress, by William D. Murphy (1834); 10. John 
Winston Jones, Va. (1791-1848), Speaker 28th Congress, by 

James B. Sword (1839 ); n. John White, Ky. (1805-45), 

Speaker, 27th Congress, by Gerard Barry (1864 ); 12. 

Robert M. T. Hunter, Va. (1809-87), Speaker, 26th Con- 
gress, bv Richard N. Brooks (1865-1920) ; I3- James K. Polk, 
Tenn. (1795- 1849), Speaker, 24th and 25th Congresses, by 
Rebecca Polk; 14. John Bell, Tenn. (1797-1869), Speaker, 
24th Congress, first Session, by JVillie Betty Newman; 15. 
Andrew Stevenson, Va. (1784-1857), Speaker, 21st, 22d and 
23d Congresses, by Spencer Baird Nichols; 16. Philip P. 
Barbour, Va. (1782-1841), Speaker, 17th Congress, by Kate 
Flournoy Edwards (1877 ). 

South Wall (E. vestibule) : 17. Langdon Cheeves. S. C. 
(1776-1857), Speaker, 13th Congress, by Hal Morrison. 

North Wall (E. vestibule) : 18. Jonathan Dayton. N. J. 
(1760-1824), Speaker, 4th Congress, by Henry Harrison 
(1844 ). 

North Wall (Lobby corridor) : 19. Henry Clay, Ky. 
(1777-1852), Speaker I2th-i8th Congresses, by Giuseppe 
Fagnani (<i8i9-73) ; 20. John G. Carlisle, Ky. (1835-1910), 
Speaker, 48th, 49th and 50th Congresses, by Ellen Day Hale 

(1855 ); 21. Robert C. Winthrop, Mass. (1809-94), 

Speaker, 30th Congress, by Daniel Huntington (1816-1906) ; 
22. John W. Taylor, N. Y. (1784-1854), Speaker, i6th (second 
Session) and 17th Congresses, by Caroline L. Ransom (1838- 
1910) ; 23. Thomas B. Reed (1839-1902), Speaker, 54th and 
55th Congresses, by John S. Sargent (1856 — — ) ; 24. Nathan- 
iel P. Banks, Mass. (1816-94), Speaker, 34th Congress, by 

Robert IVilliani Vonnoh (1858 ) ; 25. Charles F. Crisp, 

Ga. (1845-96), Speaker 53d Congress, by Robert Hinckley; 
26. Frederick Augustus Muhlenberg, Penn. (1750-1841), 
Speaker ist and 3d Congresses, by Samuel B. Waugh (1814- 
85); 27. Samuel J. Randall, Penn. (1828-90), Speaker 44th 
(second Session), 45th and 46th Congresses, by William A. 
Greaves (1847-1900) ; 28. Galusha A. Grow, Penn. (1823-1907). 
Speaker, 37th Congress, by Greaves; 29. David Bremner 
Henderson, Iowa (1840-1906), Speaker, 56th and 57th Con- 
gress, by Freeman Thorp; 30. Warren Kiefer, Ohio 

(1836 ), Speaker, 47th Congress, by Charles A. Gray; 

31. Joseph B. Varnum, Mass. (1750-1821), Speaker. loth 
and nth Congresses, by Charles L. Elliott (1812-68) ; 32. 
Jonathan Trumbull, Conn. (1710-85), Speaker 2d Congress, 



THE CAPITOL 85 

by Henry Ives Thompson (1840-1906) ; 33. Theodore Sedg- 
wick, Mass. (1746-1813), Speaker 6th Congress, by Edgar 
Parker, after Stuart. 

In the adjoining Lobby Parlor, hanging on the N. and S. 
walls respectively, are two large paintings by Albert Bier- 
stadt (1830-1902): I. Entrance into Monterey; 2. Discovery 
of the Hudson. (These formerly hung in the Hall of Repre- 
sentatives.) Also on N. wall are the following portraits: 
I. (W. end) Joseph G. Cannon, by Williani T. S medley (1858- 
1920) ; 2. (E. end) Champ Clark, by Boris Gordon. 

Returning to the western staircase (which, like the east- 
ern staircase of this Wing, has steps of white marble, with 
balustrade and wainscoting of variegated Tennessee marble) 
we pass (facing foot of staircase) a bronze bust of Be-Sheck- 
Kee, a Chippewa Chief, modeled by Joseph Lasalle, from 
original marble by Francis Vincenti. Opposite, on wall 
above landing and occupying the entire width, is the widely 
known mural painting, *"Westward the Course of Empire 
Takes Its Way," by Emanuel Leutze (1816-68). The impor- 
tance of this painting, undeniably fine though it is, was much 
exaggerated in the earh^ years after its acquirement. As late 
as 1869 one enthusiastic critic asserted, "This painting is 
the greatest work of art in the possession of the Government, 
and one of the grandest in the world." 

The scene represents a train of emigrants crossing the Rocky Moun- 
tains. From the summit of the range which they have reached, a glo- 
rious view stretches out to the westward. The title is borrowed from 
Bishop Berkeley. Leutze received $20,000 for this painting. 

Below Leutze's painting is a long, narrow fresco, also 
by Eeutze, representing the Golden Gate of San Fran- 
cisco. In the borders (on N. and S. walls) are portraits of 
Daniel Boone, the pioneer of the southwest, and Captain 
William Clark, of the Lewis and Clark Expedition to the 
Columbia, 1803-06. Opposite (second floor) is a portrait 
of Chief Justice John Marshall, copy by Richard Norris 
Brooke (1847 ), from original by W. D. Washington. 

To reach the visitors' galleries we turn left to N. corridor. 
Here the doors on our right open respectively into : i. Mem- 
bers' Card Gallery; 2. Ladies' Gallery; 3. Gentlemen's Gallery; 
4- Ladies' Gallery; 5. Members' Family Gallery. The re- 
mainder of the gallery contains reservations for the Dip- 
lomatic Corps and for members of the Press, the latter being 
on the S. side, directly above the Speaker's chair. 

The Hall of the House of Representatives is a rectangular 
chamber, slightly larger than that of the Senate Wing, measur- 



RIDER'S WASHINGTON 
J I I I I L 



^ 



^ZEXE 
^TTTT 
^TTTT 




1 r 



1 f 



THE CAPITOL 87 

ing: length 139 ft, width 93 ft., height 36 ft._ The ceiling is 
of cast iron, the central portion being filled with glass panels, 
forming a large sky-light, and decorated with the coats-of- 
arms of the different states and territories. The designs for 
this ceiling were made by Johannes Adam Ocrtel (1823-1909). 
The Speaker's desk occupies a raised position against the 
southern wall. To his left sits the Doorkeeper, and to his 
right the Sergeant-at-Arms, whose symbol of authority is the 
Mace, which, when the House is in session, occupies a marble 
pedestal to the Speaker's right. 

The Mace resembles the fasces of ancient Rome, and consists of a 
bundle of black rods bound together with silver bands. It is sur- 
mounted by an eagle resting on a globe, both of silver. The Sergeant- 
at-Arms must carry this Mace whenever executing the commands of 
the Speaker. When the H'ouse is in committee of the whole the Mace 
is placed upon the floor. This symbol of authority has been used 
uninterruptedly since its adoption by the House in the First 
Congress. 

I To R. and L. of the Speaker's desk are full length por- 
traits : I. Washington by Vanderlyn, after Stuart; 2. Lafay- 

' ette, by Ary Scheffer (1797-1858). The latter was presented 
to Congress by the artist in 1825. At W. end of S. wall is a 

' large fresco by Brumidi, depicting an incident at Yorktown, 

\ "Cornwallis suing for Cessation of Hostilities under Flag of 

I Truce." This painting, admittedly one of Brumidi's poorest 

! works, is one of the very few which he chose to sign. It was 

: the artist's personal gift to Congress. 

Opposite the Speaker's desk, over the main entrance to 
the House, is the famous bronze clock surmounted by fig- 
ures of a Pioneer and an Indian, modeled by William H. 

\Rinehart (1825-74). 

I From the Visitors' Gallery we continue E. to the East 

I Gallery Corridor and East Staircase. Opposite stairs, on W. 
wall, are three portraits : in center, *Henry Clay, by John 
Neagle - (dated 1843) ; on L., Gunning Bradford, Jr., by 
Charles Wilson T^eale; on R., Charles Carroll of CarroUton, 

'by Chester Harding (1792-1866). 

' Over stair Landing, east wall, hangs a large painting by 
Frank B. Carpenter (1830-1900), "The Signing of the 
Proclamation of Emancipation," by President Lincoln, Septem- 

', ber 22d, 1862. 

The figures, representing President Lincoln and his Cabinet, are all 

I portraits. They are grouped as follows, beginning from the left: i. 

' Edwin M. Stanton, Secretary of War;, 2. Salmon P. Chase, Secrftary 

i of the Treasury; 3. Abraham Lincoln; 4. Gideon Welles, Secretaiiy of 

the_ Navy; 5. William H. Seward, Secretary of State; 6. Cale%B. 

Smith, S'ccretary of the Interior; 7. Montgomery Blair, Postma^r- 

General; 8. Howard Bates, Attorney-General. ^ 



88 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

In Main Floor Corridor, W. wall, facing stairs, is a mar- 
ble statue of *Thomas Jefferson, by Hiram Powers (cost, 
$10,000). Turning S., we reach the East Vestibule of the 
House Wing, at the entrance to which (east end) are the 
second pair of Crazvford Bronze Doors (compare p. 75). 
The designs for these doors, left unfinished at Crawford's 
death in 1857, were completed by William H. Rinehart, who 
also made the plaster models. They were cast by M. H. 
Mossman, of Chicopee, Mass. 

The sculptures comprise six panels and two medallions, 
the subjects being as follows: 

Left Door, Upper Panel: Massacre of Wyoming, July, 1778; Middle 
Panel: Battle of Lexington, April 19, 1775: Lower Panel: Presentation 
of Flags to Gen. William Moultrie for his defence of Sullivan's Island, 
Charleston Harbor, Tune 28, 1776; Medallion: Death of General Mont- 
gomery, in attack on Quebec, Dec, 31, 1775. 

Right Door, Upper Panel: Declaration of Independence, July 4, 
1776; Middle Panel: Paris Treaty of Peace between the United States 
and Great Britain, Sept, 3, 1783; Lower Panel: Washington's Farewell 
to his Officers in New York, Dec. 4, 1783; Medallion: Benjamin Franklin 
in his Study. 

Returning to North Corridor, we pass at N. E. corner a 
Committee Room which formerly, when devoted to Military 
Affairs, contained a collection of fifteen paintings of famous 
American Fortifications, by Col. Seth Eastman. These paint- 
ings were removed about fifteen years ago to the new Military 
Affairs Committee Room, in the Senate Office Building, 
Room 451 (p. 365). 

The north passage leading from the House Wing to the 
central building contains a branch of the Western Union 
Telegraph Co. Note at N. and S. ends of this passage, on 
sides of entrance arches, four medallion frescoes by Brumidi, 
containing the only examples of the artist's many landscapes 
which even the casual visitor readily identifies; S. end (R.) 
Washington's Tomb; (L.) The Washington Monument; N. 
end (R.) Mount Vernon ; (L.) Arlington. 

From here we enter at once Statuary Hall : 

h. Statuary Hall 

This hall, which is still essentially the same as designed 
and reconstructed by Latrobe after the partial destruction 
of the Capitol by the British, was until 1859 the House of 
Representatives. It occupies the site of the earlier House of 
Representatives as first planned by Thornton, which differed 
from Latrobe's design in being an oblong parallelogram. In 
its time it was considered the most artistic room in the Capi- 
tol, and it is said that during the burning of the Capitol, 



THE CAPITOL 89 

one of the British officers remonstrated against the destruction 
of so beautiful a room. The structure as it now stands is 
semi-circular, with a diameter of 96 ft., and v/ith a parallel- 
ogram on the S. side TZ x 35 ft. Its height to the top of the 
entablature is 35 ft. and to the apex of the domed ceiling 
57 ft. Its semi-circular colonnade is supported on 14 mono- 
lithic Corinthian columns of Breccia of Potomac variegated 
marble, with capitals of Italian marble modeled from the 
monument of Lysicrates. Eight other similar columns form 
a screen on the southern side and support a lofty arch adorned 
with an eagle, said to have been sculptured from life, the 
work of an Italian named Valperti, whose subsequent suicide 
was attributed to chagrin at the unfavorable criticism made 
of his only art contribution to the Capitol. The original 
paneled ceiling of the dome and the surmounting cupola, 
adapted from the Pantheon at Rome, was the work of another 
young Italian, Bonani, who died soon after their completion. 
The ceiling, however,w^as rebuilt in 1901, and none of Bonani's 
work remains. Beneath the arch, just above the position occu- 
pied by the Speaker's desk, is a plaster model of Liberty pro- 
claiming Peace, by Enrico Causici. Opposite, above the door 
opening from the Rotunda, stands the historic *Clock, 
emblematic of the Flight of Time, the design of which is 
said to have been drawn by Latrobe. It bears the signature, 
"Carlo Franzoni, 1819." The central figure, symbolizing the 
Genius of History, was modeled from a daughter of Giuseppe 
Franzoni. She stands erect in a winged Chariot of Progress 
which is rolling over a globe encircled by a belt bearing the 
signs of the zodiac. The wheel of the chariot forms the dial 
of the clock. 

This room is rich in historic associations ; it was here 
that President Madison took the oath of office ; it was here 
that Clay, Webster, the younger Adams, Calhoun and Ran- 
dolf and a host of other leading American statesmen first 
won their laurels in fiery and often acrimonious debates ; 
and it was here that ex-President John Quincy Adams, in 
his old age, fell at his desk, stricken with paralysis during 
a session of the House. The spot, in the S. W. portion 
of the room, is marked in the pavement by a small circular 
brass tablet set in the middle of the 12th white marble square, 
counting E. from the statue of Stockton. Adams died two 
days later, Feb. 23d, 1848, in the adjoining room of the 
Clerk of the House. 

The only essential differences in this chamber when it was occu- 
pied by the Representatives are as follows: the Speaker's chair and 



90 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

table stood on a rostrum raised four feet from the floor, and back 
of the rc£trum were crimson curtains suspended from the marble 
pillars supporting the great arch. The mahogany desks and comfortable 
armchairs of the Representatives were placed in concentric semi-circles, 
the outer row being enclosed by a curtained iron railing (constituting 
the bar of the Houie), beyond which was the Members' lobby. Above 
this lobby was a visitors' gallery with a seating capacity of about 
500. One division of this gallery was reserved for ladies, and here 
hung the portraits of Washington and Lafayette, which have since 
been transferred to the new Hall of Representatives (p. 87). 

The old Hall of the House was established as Statuary 
Hall b}^ act of Congress, July 2d, 1864. as the result of a 
suggestion by the late Senator Justin S. Morrill, then Repre- 
sentative from Vermont. The act reads : 

"The President is authorized to invite each and all the States 
to provide and furnish statues in marble or bronze, not exceeding 
two in nun'ber for each State, of deceased persons who have been 
citizens thereof, and illustrious for their historic renown or from 
distinguished civic or military service, such as each State shall deter- 
mine to be worthy of this national commemoration; and when so 
furnished, the same shall be placed in the old hall of the House of 
Representatives, — which is hereby set apart as a National Statuary Hall." 

It will be noted that by the terms of this act the selection 
of the citizens to be commemorated is a matter for the respec- 
tive states to determine. The first state to respond was 
Rhode Island in 1869, since which time more than half the 
states have contributed. The following lists the collection up 
to 1022: 

(.Beginning at W. of entrance and continuing from R. to 
L.) : I. John Stark (1728-1822), marble statue on gray 
granite pedestal (1894), gift of. New Hampshire; Carl H. 
Conrad (1839 — ), sculptor. Cost $4,482.11. 

Stark led a regiment at Bunker Hill. At Bennington, where he 
took command of the New Hampshire Militia, he made tie historic 
speech: "See there, boys; there are the red-coats. Before night 
they are ours, or Molly Stark will be a widow." 

2. E. KiRBY Smith (1824-93), General in Confederate Army: 
bronze statue on gray pedestal, gift of Florida ; C. A. Pillars, 
sculptor; 3. Samuel Houston (1793-1863), President of the 
Texas Republic until its annexation by the United States in 
1845: marble statue on" pink-brown marble pedestal (1904). gift 
of Texas; Elizabct Ney (1835-1907), sculptor. Cost $4,500; 
4. John Winthrop (1588-1649), First Governor of the colony 
of Massachusetts, 1629: marble statue on v/hite marble pedes- 
tal (1875), gift of Alassachusetts; Richard S. Grcenough 
(1819- ), sculptor. Cost $12,712.75; 5. Oliver P. Morton 
(1823-77), Governor of Indiana, 1861-67: marble statue on 



THE CAPITOL 91 

gray marble pedestal (1899), gift of Indiana; Charles H. 
Nichaus (1855- ), sculptor. Cost $5,000; 6. Lew Wallace 
(1827-1905), General in the United States Array, and author 
of Ben Iliir: marble statue on gray limestone pedestal (1909), 
gift of Indiana; Andrew O'Connor (1874—), sculptor. Cos^ 
$5,000; 7. Francis Harrison Pierpont (1814-99), Governor of 
West Virginia, 1861 : marble statue on blue-veined marble 
pedestal (1903), gift of West Virginia; Franklin Simmons 
(1839- ), sculptor. Cost $8,000; 8. Henry Mower Rice (1817- 
94), First United States Senator from Minnesota, 1857: 
marble statue on granite pedestal (1909), gift of ;Minnesota; 
Frederick E. Triebel (1865- ), sculptor; 9. John Edward 
Kenn A (1848-93), U. S. Senator: marble statue on dark 
veined gray marble pedestal (1901), gift of West Virginia; 
Alexander Doyle (1857- ), sculptor. Cost $5,000 riO. *Father 
James Marquette (1637-75) : marble statue on pink granite 
pedestal (1895), gift of vVisconsin ; Gaetano Trenfanove 
(1858—), sculptor. Cost $8,000. 

The inscription on the pedestal reads: "Wisconsin's Tribute. James 
Marquette, S. J., who with Louis Joliet, discovered the Mississippi 
River at Prairie du Chien, Wisconsin, June 17th, 1673." 

II. Philip Kearny (1815-62), Brig.-Gen. in the Civil War, 
who died at the Battle of Chantilly: statue in bronze (1875), 
gift of New Jersey; Henry K. Brown (1814-86). sculptor. 
Cost $8088.20; 12. James Shields (1810-79), a General in 
the Civil War : bronze stntuu-on dark gray granite pedestal 
(1893), gift of Illinois; Leonard IV. Folk (1828-95), sculptor. 
Cost $9000; 13. Richard Stockton (1730-81) : statue in 
marble on marble pedestal (1886), gift of New Jersey; 
Henry K. Brozvn (1814-86), sculptor. Cost $7088.20. 

A signer of the Declaration of Independence. Died of hardships 
caused by imprisonment by the British. 

14. George Clinton (1739-1812), First Governor of New 
York. Vice-President two terms with Jefferson and Madi- 
son: bronze statue on brown marble pedestal (1873), gift 
of New York; Henry K. Brozvn, sculptor. Cost $12,500; 

15. William King O1768-1852), First Governor of Maine: 
marble statue on marble pedestal (1877) ; Franklin Simmons 
(1839- ). sculptor. Cost $4000; 16. Roger W'illiams (i599- 
1683), Founder of the colony of Rhode Island: marble 
statue on pink granite pedestal (1870). gift of Rhode Island; 
Franklin Simmons, sculptor. Cost $8566; 17. Nathanael 
Greene (1742-86), General in the Revolutionary War: marble 
statue on pink granite pedestal (1869), gift of Rhode Island; 



92 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Henry K. Brazen, sculptor. Cost $8566; 18. Jacob Collamer 
(1792-1865), Postmaster-General under Taylor: marble statue 
on marble pedestal (1879), gift of Vermont; Preston Pou'ers 
(1843- ), sculptor. Cost $6081.25; 19. Jabez Lamar 
Monroe Curry (1825-1903), Statesman and educator; United 
States Minister to Spain, 1885-88: marble statue on marble 
pedestal (1906), gift of Alabama; Dante Sodhii (1858 — ), 
sculptor. Cost $4000; 20. *RoBERT Fulton (1765-1815), 
seated marble figure on variegated brown marble pedestal, 
holding model of steamboat (1881), gift of Pennsylvania; 
Hoivard Roberts (1843-1900). sculptor. Cost $7500; 21. James 
P. Clarke (1854-1916), U. S. Senator from Arkansas: 
marble statue on marble pedestal, gift of Arkansas; Pompeo 
Coppini, sculptor; 22. Robert E. Lee (1807-70), Con- 
federate General : bronze statue on white marble pedestal 
(1908), gift of Virginia; Edward V. Valentine (1838 — ), 
sculptor. Cost $10,000; 23. George Washington (1732-99): 
bronze statue on blue-veined marble pedestal (1908), gift of 
Virginia, copy of original marble statue by Jean Antoine 
Hoiidon, in State Capitol, Richmond, Va. Cost $6000. 

The original was ordered by the Virginia Assembly through 
Thomas Jefferson, then Minister to France. Houdon visited Mt. 
Vernon to prepare the model. Lafayette pronounced this the best 
representation of Washington ever made. The bronze copy was cast 
from a plaster model executed by IVilliam James Hiibard (1810-62), 
who lost his life through an explosion while making gunpowder for 
the Confederate Government. 

24. Url\h AI. Rose: marble statue on marble pedestal, gift 
of Arkansas ; F. W. Ruckstull, sculptor ; 25. William Allen 
(1806-79), Cxovernor of Ohio and Member of Congress: marble 
statue on marble pedestal (1887), gift of Ohio; Charles Henry 
Niehaus (1855- ). sculptor. Cost $9500; 26. John T. 
Ing.alls (1833-1900), U. S. Senator, 1873-91: marble statue 
on warm gray marble pedestal (1904), gift of Kansas; Charles 
H. Kieliaiis, sculptor. Cost $6000; 27. George W. Click 
(1827-1911), Governor of Kansas, 1883-85; marble on white 
granite pedestal, gift of Kansas ; Charles Henry Niehaus, 
sculptor; 28. James A. Garfield (1831-81) : marble statue on 
white marble pedestal (1885), gift of Ohio; Charles H. 
Niehaus, sculptor. Cost $9500. 

The bronze piece at base of pedestal — sword, wreath and palm — 
is symbolical of War, Victory and Peace. 

29. Lewis Cass (1782-1866). Secretary of War and also Sec. 
of State under Van Buren ; Minister to France: marble statue 
on brown variegated marble pedestal (1889). gift of Michigan; 



THE CAPITOL 93 

Daniel C. French (1850- ), sculptor. Cost $9848.13; 30. 
Zachariah Chandler (1813-79), U. S. Senator: rnarble 
statue on brown variegated marble pedestal (1913), gift of 
^Michigan; Charles H. Xichous. sculptor. Cost S9000 ; 31. 
John C. Calhoun (1782-1850), Sec. o£ War and Vice-Presi- 
dent: marble statue on marble pedestal (1909), gift of South 
Carolina; Frederic W. Ruckstull (1853- ), sculptor. Cost 
$9000; 32. George L. Shoup (1836-1904), U. S. Senator; Last 
Territorial and First State Gov. of Idaho,_ 1889-90: marble 
statue on marble pedestal. Seal of Idaho in bronze (1909), 
gift of Idaho; Frederick E. Triebcl, sculptor. Cost $6000; 
2,3. Ethax Allen (1739-89): marble statue on blue-veined 
marble pedestal (1875), gift of Vermont; Larkin G. Mead 
(1835-1910), sculptor. Cost $5300; 

Allen was the hero of Ticonderoga. On the night of May loth, 
1775, he led his Green Mountain Boys to the surprise of the fortress 
and demanded its surrender ''in the name of Jehovah and the Con- 
tinental Congress." 

34. John P. G. Muhlenberg (1746-1807) : pure statuary 
marble on gray-veined marble pedestal (1881). gift of Penn- 
sylvania; Blanche Nevin (1841 — ), sculptor. Cost $7500; 

Muhlenberg was an Episcopal clergyman, who received a Colonel's 
commission from Gen. Washington while still preaching in Virginia. 
One Sunday morning, in 1775, he concluded his sermon with the 
following stirring words: "There is a time for all things — a lime 
to preach and a time to pray; but there is also a time to fight, and 
that time has now come!" Thereupon be pronounced the benediction, 
and throwing off his gown stood revealed in full military uniform. 
Proceedini; to the door of the church he ordered the drums to beat 
for recruits. Nearly 300 members of his congregation enlisted. 

35. Jonathan Trumbull (1710-85) : marble statue on gray- 
black granite pedestal (1872). gift of Connecticut; Chauncey 
B. hrs (1812- ), sculptor. Cost $7386.95; 

First Gov. of Connecticut, and a close friend of Washington, who 
"relied on him as one of his main pillars of support." And because 
of his skill in providing sinews of war gave him the name of "Brother 
Jonatlian," used ever since as a nickname of the United States. 

36. Roger Sherman (1721-93), Member of committee to_ draft 
.the Declaration of Independence, and afterwards a signer; 

marble statue on gray-black granite pedestal (1872), gift of 
Connecticut; Chauncey B. Iz'cs, sculptor. Cost $7386.95; 37- 
Zebulon B. Vance (1830-94). State Governor and U. S- 
Senator, 1879, '84. '90 : bronze statue on gray limestone pedestal 
(1910), gift of North Carolina; Gutzon Borghim (1867- ), 
sculptor; 38. Robert R. Livingston (1746-1813) : bronze 



THE CAPITOL 95 

statue on brown pedestal (1874), gift of New York; Erasttis 
D. Palmer (1817-1904), sculptor. Cost $13,000; 

He was one of the committee appointed to draft the Declaration 
of Independence; First Chancellor of State; later Minister to France. 
He completed the treaty for the Louisiana Purchase, and is here 
represented as holding that document in his hand. 

39. James Harlan (1820-99), U. S. Senator and Sec. of 
Interior under Lincoln: bronze statue (1909), gift of Iowa; 
Nellie V. Walker (1874- ), sculptor. Cost $5000; 40. Samuel 
Jordan Kirkwood (1813-94), U. S. Senator and Sec. of the 
Interior under Garfield : bronze statue on pink granite pedestal, 
gift of Iowa; Vinnie Ream Hoxie (1847-1914), sculptor; 41. 
Francis P. Blair (1812-73), General in the Civil War: marble 
statue on gray marble pedestal (1899), gift of Missouri; Alex- 
ander Doyle (1857—), sculptor. Cost $6000; 42. Thomas H. 
Benton (1782-11858), U. S. Senator and a distinguishedHis- 
'torian: marble statue on gray marble pedestal (1899), gift of 
j Missouri; Alexander Doyle, sculptor. Cost $6000; 43. Frances 
Ie..Willard (1839-98), founder of the World's Woman's 
I Christian Temperance Union, and its President, 18S1-98: 
' marble statue on white marble pedestal (1905). gift of Illi- 
nois ; Helen Farnsworth Mears (1878-1916), sculptor. Cost 
$9000; 44. John Corrie, M.D. (1803-55), Inventor of ice 
I machine and mechanical refrigerator : marble statue on lilac 
(marble pedestal, gift of Florida; C. A. Pillars, sculptor; 45. 
iJoHN Hanson (1715-83), President of the Continental Con- 
gress: bronze statue on pink-gray marble pedestal (1902), 
igift of Maryland; Richard E. Brooks (1865-1920), sculptor. 
Cost $12,000; 46. Charles Carroll, of Carrollton, Md. (i737- 
J1832), a signer of the Declaration of Independence: bronze 
i statue on pink-gray marble pedestal (1901), gift of Mary- 
'land; Richard E. Brooks, sculptor. Cost $12,000; 47. Samuel 
I Adams (1722-1803) : marble statue on white marble pedestal 
' (1873) ; Anne Whitney (1821-1915), sculptor. Cost $11,712.23; 

Samuel Adams did more than any other one man to bring 
about the Kevolution. On March 6th, 1770, the day after the Boston 

I massacre, he was spokesman of a committee sent to demand the 

( withdrawal of the British troops. His ultimatum addressed \o Gov. 
Hutchinson is inscribed on the pedestal: "Night is approaching. An 

I immediate answer is expected. Both regiments or none." The troops 

I were withdrawn. 

148. Stephen F. Austin (1793-1836), founder of Texas. Es- 
jtablished first American colony on site of Austin in 1821 : 
I marble statue on red-brown marble pedestal (1904), gift of 
I Texas ; Elizabet Ney, sculptor. Cost $4500 ; 

Replicas of this statue and of Houston by the same sculptor are in 
'the Stale House at Austin Texas. 



96 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

49. Daniel Webster (1782-1852), Statesman and orator: 
marble statue on gray granite pedestal (1894), gift of New- 
Hampshire. (Copy from original by Thomas Ball, in Concord, 
N. H.; Carl H. Conrads (1839- ), sculptor. Cost $4482.11; 

50. Sequoyah (approximate dates, (1770-1845). Bronze statue 
(1917), gift of Oklahoma; Vinnie Ream Hoxie, sculptor. 

Sequoyah, once a leader of the Cherokee Indians of Georgia, owes 
his fame chiefly to his invention of the Cherokee alphabet, an achieve- 
ment all the more remarkable in that he had never attended school, 
and could neither read nor write the English language. In 1823 he 
moved from Georgia with the other members of the Cherokee tribe, 
and settled in that part of the Indian Territory which has since become 
Oklahoma. In 1828 he visited Washington as a representative of the 
western tribes of Indians, on which occasion his invention was recog- 
nized by Congress, and an appropriation of $500 was made for his 
benefit. 

The room in which John Quincy Adams died, then occu- 
pied by the Speaker of the House, is situated at the N. W. 
cor. of the old House Wing. It is reached through a small 
door at the N. W. cor. of Statuary Hall. The visitor passes 
through a short hallway and ascends four steps to a door 
marked "Enrolling Room." In L. of entrance is a pedestal 
bearing a commemorative inscription, and surmounted by a 
bust of Adams, by /. C. King. 

Having finished the circuit of the Capitol, the visitor 
who has entered by the eastern main entrance should by all 
means return to the Rotunda and leave by W. exit, descend- 
ing stairs to doorway opening upon the terrace, in order to 
inspect the imposing stairways and the grounds below. Note 
especially the broad walks extending directly in line with 
Pennsylvania and New Jersey Aves. respectively, and over- 
arched from each side by rows of stately Oriental Plane trees. 

II. Pennsylvania Avenue from the Capitol to the 
White House 

**Pennsylvania Avenue, Washington's chief thorough- 
fare, reaches from Rock Creek on the N. W. to the Ana- 
costia River on the S. E., a distance of nearly five miles, with 
an extension of more than a mile beyond the bridge through 
Twining City. There is little, however, to interest the 
stranger W. of the White House or E. of the Capitol; but 
between these points the Avenue, connecting as it does the 
Legislative and executive branches of the Government, is the 
chief artery of the city's life. Here the first important hotels 



PENNSYLVANIA AVENUE 97 

grew up (several of which still cling to the old sites) ; and 
here almost to the close of the 19th century, were located 
the principal shops and places of amusement. 

History. Pennsylvania Ave., occupying the place of honor on 
Major L'Enfant's plan, dates its birthday from April 14th, 1792, when 
orders were given by the Commissioners to the General Overseer of 
Labor to have "a breadth of two perches done in the middle of the 
avenue from the President's Palace to the Capitol." Apparently little 
was accomplished, for in 1796 the Commissioners wrote to David 
Burnes (p. xxvii), through whose land the greater part of the 
avenue ran, warning him that they would not be responsible for 
damages if he continued to plant seed in Pennsylvania Ave. In 1800 
John Cotton Smith, member of Congress from Conn., records that 
Pennsylvania Ave. was at that time "nearly the whole distance a deep 
morass covered with alder bushes, which were cut through during the 
ensuing winter." At this time the avenue was crossed, about on the 
present line of 26. St., by the Tiber Creek, over which it was found 
necessary to construct a stone bridge. Jefferson from the first interested 
himself personally in developing the avenue, and there is little doubt 
that the plan of dividing its broad surface into three parts by four 
rows of Lombardy poplars, originated with him. By 1810 nearly 
$12,000 had been spent on these improvements. Meanwhile, members 
of Congress were gradually shifting their abode from Capitol Hill along 
the line of the avenue, centering around 6th St. The poplars did 
not thrive and gradually were replaced with a variety of other trees 
until, in 1831, the scheme was abandoned, the middle rows being 
removed and the avenvie macadamized. In 1842 Congress authorized 
an appropriation to erect lamp-posts along the avenue, and provide 
lamps and oil; and "the great National Broadway of the metropolis" 
had for seven years the distinction of being the only street in Wash- 
ington lighted at night. In 1848, however, the Washington Gaslight 
Co. was chartered and pipes were laid on the avenue from the Capitol 
to the White House. 

Throughout more than a century Pennsylvania Ave. has witnessed 
a long series of impressive historic events. Down its length, at re- 
current intervals, have passed the inaugural processions of the nation's 
Chief Magistrates; here also have passed the regiments of the U. S. 
Army on their way to the front in war times, and later in the cele- 
bration of peace. Here also have been seen the funeral processions 
of Zachary Taylor, Abraham Lincoln and Garfield, not to mention 
many another distinguished statesman, soldier or naval hero to whom 
thei nation has here paid a final tribute. The most recent of these 
impressive occasions were those of the funeral of Admiral George Dewey, 
Jan. 20th, 1917; the burial of the Unknown Hero, and the dedication 
of the Grant Memorial. 

A walk up the Avenue begins at the northwestern gate of 
the Capitol grounds. Here where ist St. N. W. curves across 
its rounded boundary, is a circle containing the Naval Monu- 
ment, popularly termed "Peace Monument," facing toward 
the White House. The sculptures for this memorial to the 
"Officers, Seamen and Marines of the U. S. Navy who fell 
in defense of the Union and Liberty of their country, 1861- 
65," were modeled by Franklin Simmons in Rome, from a 
sketch by Admiral David D. Porter; the architectural por- 
tion, designed by Edzvard Clark, was executed by Bonanni 



98 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Bros, of Carrara, Italy, brought to America by a ship of war 
and erected 1877. 

Surmounting the pedestal are two bronze figures: America sadly 
enumerating her losses, while History records, "They died that their 
country might live." Below, on the front or western plinth, stands 
Victory flanked by an infant Neptune and Mars; on the opposite, or 
rear side, Peace extends an olive branch. 

The reason why critics find this monument inadequate and dis- 
appointing is explained by its history. Admiral Porter was entrusted 
with $16,000 to have made an ideal group representing Grief and 
History, to be erected on a simple pedestal at Annapolis. Afterwards 
it was decided to place the group in Washington upon the promise of 
Congress to increase the subscription. The sculptures, however, were 
already finished, and the extra $25,000 were expended upon a dispro- 
portionately large pedestal which dwarfs the figures. 

West First St. was for many years disfigured by railway 
tracks, laid and used as a mihtary necessity during the Civil 
War, although without legal warrant. They ran from Long 
Bridge up Maryland Ave. to ist St., and thence to 
the yards of the old Baltimore and Ohio station at New 
Jersey Ave. and C St. Governor Shepherd (p. xxxiv), finding 
that they interfered with his plans for the city's improvement, 
arbitrarily removed them — one of the many acts which hastened 
his downfall, 

"When it is considered that Mr. John W. Garrett, the President 
of the Road, was as influential in the political and financial world at 
that time as J. Pierpont Morgan at the height of his power, the 
audacity of the act, although in the discharge of a public duty, has 
a phase of moral grandeur." — Tindall's History of JVashington. 

Proceeding westward from the Peace Monument, we pass 
on L. the Botanical Gardens (p. 241), lextending from 
1st to 3d St. Opposite, on N. side, are two blocks of small, 
time-worn dwellings, many of them now cheap rooming 
houses. 

At the N. W. cor. of 2d St. is the site of the first Rail- 
way passenger station (Baltimore and Ohio) in Washington. 
No. 237 Pennsylvania Ave. was formerly a boarding-house 
where Walt Whitman at one time stayed. Adjoining on the 
W., at N. E. cor. of 3d St, is a century-old hostelry, originally 
known as the St. Charles Hotel, but, after many changesof 
name, is now the New Capitol Hotel, a favorite stopping 
place for Indian Chiefs. 

This quaint old building was erected 181 3-19, the years in which 
the Capitol was restored. The gray marble columns of the main 
entrance on 3d St., formed part of the debris from the burnt Capitol; as 
was also the cornice over the doorway. Beneath the pavement on the 
W. front and extending around the corner on B St., may still be 



PEMNlSYLVANIA AVENUE 99 

seen a series of eleven pens where slaves were kept until sold at the 
block not far away. Among the guests of this hotel are included 
Daniel Webster, Henry Clay, Martin Van Buren, John C. Calhoun and 
Andrew Jackson. The latter is said to have made two of his famous 
speeches from the hotel balcony. 

At the S. W. cor. of 3d St., facing the Gardens, is 
Made's Hotel, an ancient wooden hostelry, founded in 1848 
by a Swiss inn-keeper, whose descendants still conduct it. 
Here, in 1880, died Gen. John A. Sutter, on whose property 
gold was first discovered in California. 

Opposite, on the N. W. cor. of 3d St., stands another hotel 
with an interesting past. It was originally known as Gadshy's 
Hotel, and was the third tavern of that name in Washington 
(see pp. 217 and 516), and here resided, among others, Reverdy 
Johnson of Maryland, W. P. Thompson of Kentucky, Vice- 
President Hannibal Hamlin and Vice-President Henry 
. Wilson. It is now known as the Vendome Hotel. 
I At the N. W. cor. of John Marshall Place (formerly 

4H St.) stands conspicuously the six-story white structure 
, of the Ford Automobile Warehouse. To the traveller approach- 
ing the city from the south, its massive central tower is the 
, one landmark which obtrudes itself, between the Capitol and 
, the Washington Monument. The one interesting fact about it 
I is that, although under no obligation to do so, Mr. Ford sub- 
( mitted the plans of this building to the City Art Commission 
! and accepted their advice, in order to conform with the general 
^ scheme of municipal improvement. 

The site of this building was for several years occupied prior to 
I 1855, by a select boarding-house, conducted by Mrs. Elizabeth Peyton. 
I Among her guests were Henry Clay, John C. Calhoun, Henry A. Wise 
I and R. Y. Hayne of South Carolina. It was here that Harriet Mar- 
! tineau stayed during her visit to the Capital, and she has recorded 
^ that her pleasantest evenings were those when Clay, Calhoun, Daniel 
Webster, Justice Story and the aged Chief Justice John Marshall would 
' "repose themselves by our fireside." Mrs. Peyton was the widow of 
I Corson Thompson Peyton, U. S. Consul to Matanzas, Cuba, who died 
I there in 1821. From 1855 to her death in 1888 she kept a boarding- 
j house at 334 Indiana Ave. 

I Across the Avenue, on the S. W. cor. of 4^4 St., stands 

the six-story Colonisation Building, which formed the original 

home of the Georgetown University Law School (1870-73). 

Northward on John Marshall Place the vista is closed 

by the Roman portico of the venerable City Hail (p. 137). 

The Avenue from this point westward to Market Space 
was the first section to be thickly built up. By 1825 these 
two blocks were lined on both sides with shops and boarding- 
houses, in the latter of which a large proportion of the Sena- 



100 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

tors and Representatives found lodgings. The ^National 
Hotel (p. 4), N. E. cor. of 6th St., was built in 1827, by the 
Calvert estate. During the years 1840-50 it was kept by 
Coleman, and was a popular house patronized by John Bell 
of Tenn. ; John P. Hale, of New Hampshire, and Sam 
Houston, of Texas. Webster and Clay both resided there for 
a time, and there, on June 29th, 1852, Clay died. His room, 
No. 32 (old numbering), was later occupied for many years 
by Alexander H. Stephens. It was formerly shown to tourists. 
The interior of the hotel was severely damaged by fire Oct. 2, 
1921. All four corners are now occupied by hotels: N, W. 
cor., Atlantic Hold (p. 4) ; S. E. cor., St. James Hold 
(p. 4) ; S. W. COT., Hoimrd House (p. 4). 

The Atlantic Hotel stands on the site of Washington's earliest 
book store (1801-07), erected by William Duane, editor of a Jeflfer- 
sonian paper, the Philadelphia Aurora, and hence called the "Aurora 
Book Store." 

The Metropolitan Hotel (p. 4), at No. 615, is an- 
other historic hostelry. As early as 1802 one William 
Woodward acquired the eastern part of its present site, on 
which he opened Woodward's Centre Tavern. The same 
ground was occupied about 1808 by Davis's Hotel. In 1816 
it became the McKeoivn Hotel, and in 1820 the hidian Queen, 
under which title it remained for many years Washington's 
leading hotel. It was designated by a large swinging sign 
on which Pocahontas was painted in glaring colors. The 
house was kept by Jesse B'. Brown, "the Prince of Land- 
lords" who, wearing a large white apron, personally presided 
at table, on which decanters of brandy and whiskey were 
served without extra charge. This hotel was, in the early 
years, headquarters for men from the west and southwest. 

Here, in 1841, Chief Justice Cranch -of the D. C. Supreme 
Court administered the oath of office to President John Tyler. 
The present structure was erected in 185 1, when the name was 
changed to the Metropolitan. Here in 1852 Kossuth and his 
suite were guests of Congress. Here also was the residence 
of Anson Burlinghame, Ambassador of China, to make treaties, 
and of Sun Chia-Ku and Chi-Kang, associated high envoys 
and Ministers of China. 

The name was changed from Brown's to the Metropolitan 
Hotel in 1851. Here, in 1852, the Hungarian patriot, Kossuth, 
and his suite were entertained. 

At 7th St. Pennsylvania Ave. intersects C St. and 
Louisiana Ave. (running N. E. from the Mall to Judiciary 
Square). Here in front of Washington Market, from 7th 



PENNSYLVANIA AVENUE loi 

to 9th Sts., it broadens out into a rectangular plaza, approxi- 
matej,y 400 ft. broad by 700 ft. long, known as Market 
Space. Until the rcxTioval of the shopping centre to F St., 
the N. side of Market Space contained many of the leading 
stores; and here, occupying the greater part of the square 
between 7th, 8th and D Sts., is Kami's Department Store 
built partly on the site of Woodward & Lothrop's first store 
(p. 148). 

At the E. end of Market Space, in the triangle formed by 
Pennsylvania Ave. and C St., stands a small ornamental drink- 
ing fountain, the gift of Dr. Henry D. Cogswell, of San Fran- 
cisco. Immediately N., at the apex of C St. and Louisiana 
Ave., is a circle containing a Monument to Dr. Benjamin F. 
Stephenson (1823-71), the projector of the Grand Army of 
the Republic (which organization gave the bronze sculptures). 
It consists of a triangular granite pyramid; on the N. W. 
fagade are two high-relief figures in bronze, a soldier and a 
sailor, inscribed 1861-65, and symbolizing Fraternity; below 
is a medalHon portrait of Stephenson. S. Side : high-relief 
female figure, Loyalty, with shield and drawn sword ; E. 
Side : Charity, female figure protecting a child. The monu- 
ment was dedicated 1908. /. Massey Rhind, sculptor. 

The two-story gray limestone building immediately be- 
hind this monument, at the juncture of C St. and Louisiana 
Ave., is the National Bank of Washingon. 

This bank was founded in 1809 under the title Bank of Washington, 
and numbered among its first 12 directors, Daniel Carroll of Dudding- 
ton, George Blagdon, John Davidson, Robert Brent and Joel Barlow. 
The directors met at Long's Hotel, and Daniel Carroll was elected 
president. The first building was on New Jersey Ave., between B 
and C Sts., S. E. The bank was removed, 1829, to the National 
Hotel; and in 1831 to the present site, acquired at a cost of $10,000. 

Seventh St., passing W. of the Stephenson Monument, 
is one of the main thoroughfares northward, with trolleys 
running to Chevy Chase and Rock Creek Bridge, and southward 
to the steamboat wharves. 

In the long triangle W. of 7th St. stands an Equestrian 
Statue of Gen. W infield Scott Hancock (1824-86), of bronze, 
heroic size, erected by Congress at a cost of $40,000. Henry 
J. Ellicott, sculptor. 

Washington Market occupies the whole S. side of Mar- 
ket Space, from 7th to 9th St., extending through to B St. 
It was erected by the Washington Market Co. (chartered by 
Congress May 20th, 1870) and opened July ist, 1872. Adolph 
Cluss, architect. 



102 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

In 1888 and following years the market was rebuilt and its capacity 
nearly doubled, and the 9th St. hall and arcade were added. The 
area now used for market purposes is 2]^ acres; number of stalls in 
main market, 666; total number of spaces, including booths under awn- 
ings, wagon spaces, etc., 1000. The cold storage room is refrigerated 
by 10 miles of two-inch brine pipe. 

The Washington Market occupies the site of the old Center Mar- 
ket, currently known as the :Marsh or "Ma'sh" Market because the 
site was originally a marsh, where reed-birds were often shot. On 
the S. side, along the line of the present B St., was the Washington 
Canal, built to connect the Eastern Branch with the Chesa- 
peake and Ohio Canal at its terminus near 17th St. Starting at a 
point near the Navy Yard, the Washington Canal met the Tiber near 
the Mall, a little S. of Pennsylvania Ave., and followed the course 
of that stream to the point where it emptied into the Fotomac. The 
canal was a stone-walled ditch from 10 to 15 ft. deep, and trom 45 
to 150 ft. wide. But in 1853 it had ceased to be regarded as any- 
thing more than a big sewer, serving chieity as a dumping place for 
the market refuse. Because of this canal, the whole southwestern 
quarter ot the city was currently known as "The Island." 

Ninth Street, crossing Market Space at the W. end, is 
another north-and-south artery of traffic, with trolleys 
running to Takoma Park, Soldiers' Home, etc. In the 
park space, at S. E. cor. of 9th St. and Pennsylvania Aye., 
stands a bronze Statue of Major General John A. Rau'lins, 
Grant's Chief of Staff, and subsequently his Secretary of 
War. It was cast from Confederate cannon captured by 
Grant's armies, and erected in 1874 by friends of Rawlins 
at a cost of $13,000 (/. Bailey, sculptor). 

West, at the corner oif C St. and Louisiana Ave., still 
stands (1922) an old theatre which has probably undergone 
more changes of name than any other playhouse in the city. 
It was opened as the Gymnasium in 1862, and became suc- 
cessively the Washington Varieties, Oxford Hall, and the 
Canterbury. It was then re-organized by a William L. Wall, 
and opened as Wall's Opera House, September 24th, 1866, 
under the management of James R. Ford, whose own theater 
was permanently closed upon the death of Lincoln (p. 145). 
Here Laura Keene, J. M. Wallack, Jr. and Edwin Forrest 
gave their last performances in Washington ; and here the 
curtain was rung down on the death scene of Helen Weston, 
who died next day in the Kirkwood House (p. 106). 
The theater was injured by fire in 1871, but quickly rebuilt 
and renamed Ford's Opera House. It has since been, at dif- 
ferent times, the Bijou, the Empire, and Majestic. 

No. 909 Pennsylvania Ave. is the site of the former resi- 
dence of George Wood, author of Peter Schlemihl in America, 
which at one time had a great vogue. 

Number 925 Pennsylvania Ave., now occupied by a 
branch of the Woolworth stores, is the site of another his- 



PENNSYLVANIA AVENUE 103 

tcric house of entertainment, first known as Iron Hall. Here 
Stuart Robson made his first ambitious but unsuccessful ap- 
pearance on the stage. Later it became Metzerott Hall, and 
here Parepa sang for the first time in Washington. A series 
of readings were given here during the 6o's, one of the read- 
ers being Mark Twain. Later the Hall became identified 
with the so-called "Shepherd Ring," while in 1877 it served 
as a studio in which Mrs. Fassett's famous picture, "The 
Florida Case before the Electoral Commission" (p. 74), was 
painted. 

At loth St. Pennsylvania Ave. intersects with D St. In 
the triangle here formed is a bronze Statue of Benjamin 
Franklin, represented in his Court dress as U. S. Minister 
to France. It was modeled by Jacques Jouvenal, after Plass- 
man, and presented to the city, in 1889, by Stilson Hutchins. 

Stilson Hutchins (1838-1912) was a capitalist and newspaper pro- 
prietor, who founded successively the Dubuque Herald, the .S"^. Louis 
Times and (1877) the Washington Post, which he conducted until 1889. 

Behind the Franklin statue, at the N. E. cor. of loth and 
D Sts. stands the red brick Hutchins Building, formerly the 
home of the Washington Post. In this building the first ex- 
perimental electric lighting plant in this city was established 
and operated in 1881, for the purpose of illuminating the 
Avenue in honor of the reunion of the Grand Army of the 
Cumberland, when the statue of General Thomas was dedi- 
cated (p. 228). The Hutchins Building occupies in part 
the site of the home of Peter Force, a former Mayor of 
Washington (1836-40), and author of American Archives. 
The S. W. cor. of loth St. and Pennsylvania Ave. is the 
site of a famous old restaurant, kept for many years by one 
Michael Coombs, who made a fortune during the Civil War 
from the patronage of the Union soldiers. The building, 
erected in 1809, of imported English brick, was demolished in 
1893 to make room for a five-story office building. 

North on loth St. is the historic Ford's Theatre, where 
President Lincoln was shot (p. 145). South on the Mall 
looms up the dome oif the Nezv National Museum (p. 260). At 
nth St., S. E. cor., stands Harvey's Restaurant (p." 7), the 
oldest and best known of the fashionable restaurants (exclu- 
sive of hotels). It first achieved fame as "Harvey's Oyster 
House," in Civil War days, and after 64 years is still locally 
known by the old name. 

The oyster house was first established by Thomas M. and George 
W, Harvey in 1858, in an old blacksmith shop opposite Carusi'si Theatre. 
Business grew rapidly, since Harvey's had virtually a monopoly of 



104 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

the oyster business ia Washington, and by 1862 purveyors to the Army 
were ordering from 100 to 500 gallons at a time. Lack o£ adequate 
facilities for boiling oysters in such vast bulk led to experiments with 
steam, resulting in^the invention of the Steamed Oyster, on which the 
fame of Harvey's has ever since rested. In 1863, by special arrange- 
ment, President Lincoln, accompanied by Mrs. Lincoln, Secretary 
Seward and his wife, visited the former blacksmith shop, to partake 
of the ne%v delicacy. 

The present building was acquired in 1866 and opened as a fully 
equipped high-class restaurant. General Grant was a familiar figure 
here, and his favorite seat was in the alcove ott the second-floor dining- 
room. Others included in the long list of famous guests are: Reverdy 
Johnson. Stephen A. Douglas, Benjamin F. Butler.^ "Sunset"' Cox, 
Tames G. Blaine. Roscoe Conkling, and Presidents Garfield, Arthur, 
"Roosevelt and Taft. 

Immediately adjoining Harvey's on the E., is the 
Avenue entrance to the Xczi' Capitol Theatre (formerly the 
L\\ceum), the main body of which occupies an historic site 
at the N. E. cor. of nth and C Sts. Aside from occasional 
performances given in Blodgett's Hotel (p. 142), Washington 
had. in its hrst years, no playhouse. In 1803 a number of citi- 
zens met at Tiinnicliff's Tavern (p. 410) and planned for the 
erection of the first theatre in the citj', which was built in 1804 
on this site, and known officially as the Washington Theatre, 
and colloquially as "The Theatre." It is interesting to know 
that in spite of many casualties and reconstructions a portion 
of the side and rear walls of the New Capital are the same 
which were erected in 1804. 

After its partial destruction the building was sold in 1822 to the 
elder Carusi, who reconstructed it under the new title ot City Assembly 
Rooms. Here Carusi conducted a dancing academy, and in this same 
hall were held many notable gatherings attended by the best people 
in the District. It was the scene of the inaugural balls of Presidents 
Van Buren (1837), Polk (1845), Taylor (i8ao), Pierce (1853), and 
Buchanan (1857). In 1S57, after the National Theatre had been burned 
for the second time (p. 108), Carusi's Saloon (as it was then 
called) was remodeled and resumed the old name of the Washington 
Theatre. Among the notable performances here given was a two- 
weeks engagement, at the time of Lincoln's_ second inauauration (1865), 
of the Wallack and Davenport Combination, with Rose Etinge and 
Henry Placide. 

Josiah Quincy, who visited Washington in 1S26. records that he 
"saw the waltz introduced into society for the first time," at a public 
ball at Carusi's. 

At nth St., where the Avenue intersects D St., stands 
the Post Office Department Building, occupymg the entire 
city square bounded by nth. 12th, C and D Sts.. a massive 
structure of V'inalhaven. Maine, granite, on the Romanesque 
order, with a conspicuous tower 315 ft. in height. Cost, in- 
clusive of site, a little over $3,000,000. The building was 
designed in the office of the Supervising Architect of the 
Treasurv. 



PENlNiSYLVANIA AVENUE 105 

This building originally contained the city Post Office as 
well as the offices of the Department. There was also a museum 
connected with the Dead Letter Office, containing a curious 
assortment of unclaimed articles Avhich had gone astray in the 
mail. Upon the completion, however, of the new City Post 
Office (p. 357), at North Capitol and G Sts., the Pennsyl- 
vania Ave. building was given over exclusively to the Depart- 
ment work. It contains now nothing of interest to the general 
sightseer. 

Diagonally opposite, at the N. W. cor. of nth St., is the 
ten-story white marble building (erected 1808) of the JVash- 
ington Evening Star, the leading afternoon daily (p. 44), the 
first number of which appeared in December, 18=2. 

The Star, established by Charles \V. Dennison, soon passed into the 
control of William D. Wallach, a journalist with a^ keen instinct for 
news, who introduced new ideas and methods into Washington journal- 
ism, which quickly proved more popular than the stately and flowing 
periods of the old Xaticnal Intelligencer. The Star soon became the 
most widely read newspaper in Washington; and this position it has 
maintained to the present time. 

Its present editor, Theodore Noyes, began as a Star reporter in 
1877; became associate editor ten years later, and editor-in-chief in 
1908. Mr. Xoves has identified himself closely with the welfare of 
the city. He 'is known as the "Father of the Washington Public 
Library;'' as having been chiefly instrumental m ridding the city of 
grade crossings and of occupancy of parks by railroads; he helped to 
keep overhead trolleys out of Washington; and, since iS88, has advo- 
cated a constitutional amendment giving the District representation 
in Congress. 

The marble lobby of the main business office, on the 
ground floor, deserves a visit. It contains a series of seven 
mural paintings 53'mbolizing the purpose and scope of the 
modern newspapers. They were executed by Frederick 
Dielman, Director of the Art Schools of Cooper Union, New 
York. 

On the ]Vest U\ul: i. (central paneH, Diftusion or Intelligence. 
In the centre is Journalism, a seated female figure sending forth the 
winged Genius of "Enlightenment; on L., kneeling child with hour glass 
and tablet m.arked "Lux," signifying the periodic issue of the newspaper; 
on R., kneeling youthful figure, with trumpet of Fame and Printing- 
press, surmounted with a Liberty-cap; 2. (on L.). Art, History and 
Literature; (three female figures) in centre stands History recording 
events; seated, on L. and R.. are Art holding a Grecian Urn, and 
Literature wnth manuscript and lyre; 3. (on R.) Instruction, Justice, 
Moderation: (three female figures seated) in centre is Instruction 
teaching a boy with Phrygian cap and spear (symbolizing the young 
citizen of a free state); on L.., is Justice with sword and law book; 
on R. is Moderation with fasces and shield. 

North Wall: 4. News Gathering, personified by central female 
figure scanning the horizon; kneeling on either side are children. 



io6 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

L. with telegraph instrument; R. with carrier pigeon; 5. Advertising: 
in the centre is a. statue of Mercury, god of commerce; below, in 
front, are a group of children displaying their wares; on L. is Com- 
merce, female figure with winged wheel; on R. is Manufacture, female 
figure showing textiles 

South Wall: 6. Steam and Electricity: on R., winged figure of 
Electricity brandishing a thunderbolt; on L., male figure, personifying 
Steam, turns a wheel, in the background is the aurora borealis; 7. 
Mechanical development of Printing: in centre is female figure sym- 
bolizing the old style of hand type-setting; on R. is a Mergenthaler 
linotype machine; on L., modern rotary press. 

The Star Building houses two of the most important 
business organizations in Washington : i. The Washington 
Chamber of Commerce, with a membership (1922) of up- 
wards of 500. Its general purposes as defined in its by-laws 
are: "to promote and nurture commercial and manufacturing 
enterprises . . . and to bring the citizens of the District, 
especially its business men, into . . . closer relationship." 

2. The Washington Board of Trade (organized 1889), 
which, in 1922, had an active membership of upwards of 
14CX). Among the civic improvements which this organiza- 
tion has successfully championed are: the completion of the 
sewerage system; the deepening of the river channel: the 
reclamation of the Anacostia fiats ; and the furthering of the 
Park Commission Plans for developing and beautifying 
Washington. 

Diagonally opposite, on nth St.. is the office of the 
Washington Herald (p. 44). At S. E. cor. of nth and E 
Sts. is the Hotel Harrington, enlarged in 1917 (p. 4). 

Facing the Post Office, at the N. W. cor. of 12th St., stands 
the Raleigh Hotel (p. 3), one of the four or five leading 
hotels of Washington. 

History. Already in the early twenties this site was occupied by 
a hotel known as Appier's. Subsequently, in 1839, a building was 
erected here to house the city Post Office; but this was soon after 
replaced by the Fountain Inn, which in turn made way for a four- 
story structure erected in 1847 by Fuller & Co., and known success- 
ively as Fuller's Hotel, the Irving and the Kirkwood. Here Andrew 
Johnson resided while Vice-President; and the name Kirkwood House 
survived in history chiefly as the place where his assassination was 
attempted by the Lincoln conspirators. Here also Johnson took the 
Oath of Office immediately following Lincoln's death. The property 
was later purchased by Alexander R. Shepherd, who erected here an 
office building which he used many years as his place of business. 
This in turn gave place to the present Raleigh Hotel, erected in 1893. 

On the walls of the hotel Foyer are numerous paintings and 
murals, notably. The Departure of Sir Walter Raleigh, The 
White Cliffs of Dover and a group of English Pastorals by 
C. Y. Turner; also Chelmonski's After the Fair. Among the 



PENNSYLVANIA AVENUE 107 

paintings in the Bar adjoining the Cafe, is R. L. Johnson's 
Meeting of the Arab Sheiks. In the Rathskeller, known as 
the "Boar's Head," are decorations by Turner, including quota- 
tions from the Rubaiyat. There is also a Dutch Room with 
decorations by Turner. On the top floor of the Raleigh is 
a spacious ball-room and banquet hall, the color scheme of 
which is white and gold. 

Diagonally opposite the Raleigh, at No. 1202 Pennsyl- 
vania Ave., is the Terminal Station of the Washington- 
Virginia Raikvay. The cars start from opposite the rear 
entrance on D St 

Opposite this station. No. 1202 D St., much modernized, 
and now used for business purposes, is the old house occupied 
by John P. Van Ness for 10 years, after his marriage to 
Marcia Burnes. Here in 1807 and again in 181 1 Washington 
Irving was their guest. 

The spacious quadrangle formed by the intersection of 
the Avenue with E St., contains a number of notable buildings. 
On the S. side, extending from 13th to 133^ Sts., is the six- 
story buff brick Southern Raikvay Building, the new or eastern 
hall of which was completed in 1917 {Milburn, Heistcr & Co., 
architects). 

The Southern Railway Building occupies the site of two 
historic hotels. At the E. cor. formerly stood the Prescott 
House, used during the early days of the Civil War as a 
prison for political prisoners. At the W. corner stood the 
Globe Hotel, kept by James Maher as early as 1827, and well 
known as headquarters of Indian Chiefs when they came to 
pay their annual visit to their "White Father." 

The office of the Danish Legation is in the Southern 
Building, Room 434. 

Opposite, across Pennsylvania Ave., on the N. line of E 
St., stands the National Theatre, dating from 1835. Ex- 
ternally it is a stolid, ungainly structure flanked by square, 
squat towers. Architects: for the fagade, A. B. MuUetf; for 
the interior, J. B. McElfotrick & Sons. While no longer 
Washington's leading playhouse, the National Theatre has 
an almost unrivalled record in the history of the American 
stage, dating back over eighty j-ears. The present structure 
(1917) is the sixth theatre erected on this site, all of w^hich, 
with one exception, have borne the same name. 

The site was originally chosen by William W. Corcoran, and the 
original trustees included Henry Randall, William L. Brent, Richard 



io8 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Smith and Benjamin Ogle Tayloe. Financial difficulties having arisen 
during construction, Mr. Corcoran supplied the deficit. The first 
National Theatre opened in the fall of 1835, with a play entitled 
"The Man of the World." 

During the ensuing ten years the artists seen here included 

Junius Brutus Booth, J. H. Hackett, Edwin Forrest, Fanny Ellsler 

and Ole Bull. The theatre was burned March 5th, 1845, together 
with several dwellings on 13th St. 

It was rebuilt as the New National Hall in 1850, the work being 
unduly rushed in order to be ready for the reception of Jenny Lind, who 
made her Washington debut in December. A few weeks later it was 
reopened as a circus, when the sudden collapse of one of its hastily 
built walls compelled it to close its doors. 

The third edifice, built 1852, witnessed the Washington debuts of 
Lola Montez and Cliarlotte Cushman; followed by engagments of the 
Ravel Family, Agnes Robertson and Edwin Booth; also an operatic 
season with Grisi and Mario. 

Burned again in 1856, this theatre was rebuilt and opened in 1862, 
as Grovcr's Theatre; then remodeled and reopened as The National in 
1864. Here appeared, among others, Lotta, Joseph Jefferson, Ristori, 
J. S. Clarke, Lydia Thompson and Marie Seebach. The theatre was 
burned for the third time in 1873, rebuilt and reopened the following 
year. 

Adjoining the theatre on the W., is the eleven-story white 
marble Munsey Building, a conspicuous feature in a city where 
sky-scrapers are a rarity. In this building are the offices of 
the Finnish Legation. 

In the triangular park at 13th and E. Sts. stands the 
equestrian statue of Count Casimir Pulaski (1748-79), the 
Polish patriot who joined Washington's ariny in 1777, was 
commissioned as Brigadier General, distinguished himself and 
Brandywine and Germantown, and was mortally wounded at 
the Battle of Savannaah, Oct. 9, 1789. Monument erected 1910 
at cost of $55,000. Casimir Chodzinski^ sculptor. 

The new *Municipal Building, popularly known as the 
"District Building," occupies an entire city block, with a 
frontage of 243 ft. on D and E Sts., and 193 ft. on 13^ and 
14th Sts. It is a classic structure, mainly on the Corinthian 
order, with its principal facade on E St., facing the Avenue 
across a triangular park space. The basement story of Blue 
Hill (Me.) granite supports a rustic first story above which 
is an ordinance of sixteen Corinthian columns rising through 
three stories, and surmounted by a cornice and attic roof. 
The material of all the upper stories is South Dover (N. Y.) 
marble. An appropriation of $2,500,000 was made, which 
covered the cost both of the land and the building. The 
latter was approximately $1,750,000. Cope & Stewardson, 
of Philadelphia, architects. 



PENNSYLVANIA AVENUE 109 

The external sculptures are by Adolfo de Nesti (b. Flor- 
ence, Italy, 1870). They consist of eight symbolic statues, 
heroic size, placed along the upper cornice of the main fagade, 
and repeated in whole or in part on the other three sides of 
the building. These statues (from E. to W.) symbolize: 
I. Sculpture, male figure holding mallet and carved tablet 
(the head is a portrait of the sculptor) ; 2. Painting, female 
hgure with palette; 3. Architecture, male figure holding Ionic 
capital; 4. Music, female figure with harp; 5. Commerce, 
female figure with winged globe, and shield adorned with 
a ship; 6. Engineering, n»ale figure with surveying instru- 
ment; 7. Agriculture, female figure with fruits of the field; 
8. Statesmanship, male figure in Roman toga, with Eagle. 
The sculptures over the main entrance (also by de Nesti) 
consist of the coat-of-arms of the District, surmounted by 
an eagle, and flanked by two half recumbent female figures : 
on L., Justice, with scales; on R., the Law, with scroll. 

The vestibule is finished in pure white marble, hand- 
somely carved. On R. is a bronze portrait medallion com- 
memorating John W. Ross, Commissioner of District of 
Columbia, 1890-1902 {U. S. J. Dunbar, sculptor). 

In entrance hall, near foot of stairs (L), is a bronze 
portrait bust of Crosby Stuart Noyes (1825-2908), a promi- 
nent citizen and philanthropist. William Couper, sculptor. 

There is comparatively little to interest the stranger 
within the building, with the exception of the fine main lower 
hall and stairway, finished in Georgia marble from the Che- 
rokee and Kenneshaw quarries, and the *Board Room on the 
upper, or Administration floor. The latter, the handsomest 
room in the building, 25 x 52 ft., extends along the N. side, 
and is finished throughout with richly carved and deep-toned 
butternut wood (except part of the upper panels and mould- 
ing, where it became necessary to use a difl"erent wood stained 
to match, because the available supply of seasoned butternut 
was insufficient). 

Along the north hallway, and in the adjoining rooms, 
are some interesting portraits of former Mayors of Wash- 
ington and Governors of the District. Those in the hallway, 
from W. to E. are as follows: i. * Joseph Gales, Jr., Mayor 
1827-30 {Chester Harding, artist) ; 2. Philip Dodridge (Va.). 
Representative 1829-31 ; 3. Senator Samuel L. Southard of 
N. J., 1821-33; 4. Alexander Thompson (Penn.). Representa- 
tive 1824-26; 5. Charles Fenton Alercer (Va.) Representative 



no RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

1817-39; (over stair landing) 6. *William W. Seaton, Mayor 
1840-50. In room 509 portrait of James G. Berret, Mayor 
1858-61 (Robert Hinckley, artist) ; Matthew G. Emer}^ Mayor 
1870-71. In the ante rooms of the Commissioners' offices are 
other portraits, chiefly pen-drawings and photographs, repre- 
senting an almost complete series of the Mayors and 
Governors. 

In the Plaza in front of the Municipal Building stands a 
statue of Alexander R. Shepherd (1835-1902), former Gover- 
nor of Washington (p. xxxiv). U. S. J. Dunbar, sculptor. 

The New Willard Hotel (p. 3), at the N. W. cor. of 
Pennsylvania Ave. and 14th St., rivals the Shoreham as 
Washington's most fashionable hotel. It is a twelve-story 
'Structure dn the French Renaissance style, and extends 
through from the avenue, along 14th St., to F St. {Henry G. 
Hardenbergh, architect). Especially famous is the central 
hallway on the main floor, popularly known as "Peacock 
Alley." Here, by day and by night, may be seen interesting 
groups of distinguished guests of many nationalities. Among 
the various organizations which hold their periodic meetings 
at Willard's, the most widely known is the Gridiron Club, 
which holds two dining sessions annually, at which the 
President of the United States and other dignitaries are 
"not only special guests, but the special marks for unique 
and witty darts ; in fact they constitute the meat w^hich is 
'roasted' on both sides as it wriggles and broils on the grates 
of the human gridiron." 

The site of the New Willard has been occupied as a hotel for 
approximately a century. In 1818 the first hostelry was opened by one 
John Tennison in the corner house of a row of six two-story-and-attic 
houses, erected by John Tayloe. Associated with him was John 
Strother, who became the sole proprietor, and for six j-ears ran it 
successfully as Strother's Hotel, gradually absorbing the other houses 
in the row. By 1S30 the name had been changed to the "City Hotel," 
and during 1840-50 it was conducted by Fuller and Company, and 
known either as "Fuller's City Hotel," or more briefly as "Fuller's." 
Meanwhile, the title remained vested in John Tayloe, by whose will 
it passed, in 1847, to Benjamin Ogle Tayloe. Three years later, when 
the Fuller management ceased, Mr. Tayloe's second wife, who was 
Phoebe Warren of Troy, recommended as the new manager a "dear 
friend" named Henry A. Willard, then running a Hudson River 
steamer. Under this new manager, who brought with him his t)rothers,' 
Joseph and C. C. Willard, the hotel so prospered that in the early 
sixties it was enlarged and extended up to F St. Early in the Civil 
War Willard's caught fire, and came near being destroyed, but was 
saved by Colonel Ellsworth's Zouaves, who happened then to be 
quartered there. Later Willard's was sold at auction and was bought 



THE WHITE HOUSE in 

in by Joseph Willard, who was henceforth sole owner and manager. 
It was after this that C. C. Willard acquired the Ebbitt House (p. 5). 
Among distinguished guests at the older Willard's were Presidents 
Zachary Taylor, Millard Fillmore and James Buchanan. Here also 
Abraham Lincoln stayed prior to his inauguration in 1861. And here 
General Grant received his appointment as Lieut. General. It was 
also while staying at Willard's that Mrs. Julia Ward Howe was 
inspired to write "The Battle Hymn of the Republic." 

West of Willard's, at No. 411 Pennsylvania Ave. is the 
five-story Occidental Hotel (p. 5), occupying another his- 
toric hotel site. As early as 1822 the "Washington Hotel" 
stood here, known also as "Sandford's Hotel," after its pro- 
prietor, Alexander Sandford. 

On the S. side of the avenue between 14th and 15th Sts., 
stand the Washington headquarters of the Grand Army of 
the Republic; Poll's Theatre (p. 24) ; and the Oxford Hotel, 
the latter occupying (at S. E. cor. of 15th St.) the site 
of Mrs. Sutor's boarding house, where Admiral Cockbiirn 
stopped at the time of his occupation of Washington in 1814. 

Opposite, at N. E. cor. of Pennsylvania Ave. and 14th 
St., facing the Treasury and extending through to F St. is 
the Washington Hotel (PI. H — D5), a ten-story structure 
of buff brick and Indiana Limestone, with ornamental frieze 
at 8th story, consisting of medallion portraits of famous men. 
Carrere & Hastings, architects. On the main floor is a great 
assembly hall containing nearly 6500 sq. ft. of floor space, 
known as the Salon des Nations. 

III. The White House 

**The White House (PI. II— C4), as the residence of 
the Chief Executive is popularly known, is situated in the upper 
portion of the four teen-acre plot called the _ Executive 
Grounds, centering approximately at the intersection of the 
axes of i6th and G Sts., with its_ main facade overlooking 
Pennsylvania Ave., directly opposite Lafayette Square. In 
style it is an adaptation of Italian Renaissance, built of Acquia 
Creek sandstone, painted white ; and its stately N. and S. 
porticoes are borne upon Ionic columns. The legend, re- 
peated in practically all guide-fcooks, that the architect, James 
Hohan, an Irishman by birth, based his design upon the 
Palace of the Duke of Leinster, in Dublin, has been definitely 
refuted. On the other hand, the building admittedly bears 
a striking resemblance to the vice-regal lodge in Phoenix 
Park, Dublin. Its official name is the "Executive Mansion"; 
the first to break this tradition being President Roosevelt, 



112 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

during whose administration all public documents and cor- 
respondence emanating from his office were stamped "White 
House." 

History. James Hoban was one of the numerous competitors who 
submitted plans for the "President's House" in response to the ad- 
vertisement by the Commissioners, on March 14th, 1792, for plans to 
be submitted not later than July 15th following. His designs were 
promptly accepted, and he received the promised award of $500 and a 
building lot. The cornerstone of the White House was^ laid 
October 13th, 1792, the 300th anniversary' of the landing of Colum- 
bus. The progress of the work of erection was slow, the architect 
being hampered by lack of funds. The needed money had to be raised 
either through the sale of lots in the Federal City, or through con- 
tributions from Marj'land and Mrginia. It was not until April, 
1800, that Congress gave any aid; and then made an appropriation 
of only $15,000 for the purpose of buying furniture. In spite of 
obstacles, however, the work had so far progressed in the fall of I799 
that General and Mrs. Washington were able, shortly before the 
former's death, to make a tour of inspection through the rooms. Yet, 
when President Adams and his wife came to Washington the following 
year and occupied the White House, they found a disheartening state 
of unpreparedness, which Mrs. Adams graphically described in her 
well-known letter of November 21st, iSoo: "There is not a single 
apartment finished," she wrote, "we have not the least fence, yard or 
other convenience, without, and the great unfinished audience room I 
make a drying-room of, to hang up clothes in. The principal stairs 
are not up, and will not be this winter." 

In spite of delays the White House was the first of the Govern- 
ment Buildings to be completed. Hoban's original plans called for an 
E. and W. terrace, similar to those recently constructed, but on a 
more modest scale. It is uncertain when the first terraces were added, 
but presumably during the administration of Jefferson, since it is 
known that his ofiice occupied the site of the present executive offices. 

The White House was one of the buildings seriously injured by 
fire during the British occupation in 1814. As it was rendered 
uninhabitable, the President and Mrs. Madison were glad to accept the 
hospitable offer of Col. John Tayloe. of his home, the Octagon House 
(p. 209) as a temporary White House. There they resided for a 
year, after which they rem'oved to one of the "Seven Buildings" (p. 215), 
at the cor. of Pennsylvania Ave. and 19th St. 

The task of planning and overseeing the restoration of the White 
House was entrusted to Hoban, the original architect. The extent 
of the damage is indicated in the report made by the Committee on 
Restoration in the following Xovember._ which reads in part as follows: 
"The vaulting which supports some of the floors is very little, if at 
all, weakened by the burning, and parts of the walls, arches and 
columns are in a state requiring a small expense to preserve them." 
Yet the cost of repairs eventually amoomted to $246,490. or slightly 
more than two-thirds the original cost of the building, namely: 
$333,207.04. 

On January ist, 1818, the White House was thrown open for the 
general reception of visitors for the first time since its restoration. 
Work on it, however, in the form of various improvements, continued 
for several years. In 1819 Congress appropriated upward of S8000 
for enlargement of "the office west of the President's house." The S. 
portico was added in 1823 at a cost of $18,000; the East Room was 
finished and furnished a few years later out of an appropriation of 
$25,000, and the north portico erected in 1829 at a cost of $25,000. 









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THE WHITE HOUSE 113 

Gas lighting was installed in the White House in 1848; and a 
system of heating and ventilation in 1853. About 1857 the W. terrace 
was built over with green-houses and its existence forgotten until 
unearthed during the wholesale reconstruction in igo2. The E. 
portico was removed some time prior to 1870. 

The White House continued to serve the double purpose of 
offices and residence of the successive presidents down to the fall of 
1902, notwithstanding that the discomfort of its inadequate space was 
steadily augmenting, and plans for a new Executive Mansion were 
seriously discussed. 

There were some who even advocated a change of site, and the 
high ground of Meridian Hill (p. 208), at what was then the terminus 
of i6th St., found numerous supporters. But the widespread public 
sentiment in favor of retaining an historic landmark, second in interest 
only to the Capitol itself, led to a determination to endeavor first to 
learn whether it would be possible, without destructive alterations, to 
adapt the old building to the modern needs. Accordingly, in the spring 
of 1902, Messrs. McKim, Mead and White were requested to make an 
exhaustive examination of the White House, and to submit plans and 
estimates for such changes as seemed necessary. In his message 
transmitting to Congress the reporlT of the architects, President Roose- 
velt succinctly defined as follows the spirit in which the proposed recon- 
struction was to be made: 

"The White House is t^e property of the Nation, and so far as is 
compatible with living therein it shall be kept as it originally was, for 
the same reason that we keep Mount Vernon as it originally was." 

The report of the architects having been approved, Congress 
appropriated $65,000 for the erection of temporary offices for the 
President, and $475,000 for remodeling and refurnishing the White 
House. 

The contract was let for the work, the stipulation being that 
everything must be done within four months, so that the family could 
again occupy the building and the President the offices. 

Most of the work was done during the summer months while 
President and Mrs. Roosevelt were at Oyster Bay. Upon their return 
in September they were quartered temporarily at No. 22 Jackson Place 
(P- 193), diagonally opposite the White House. In October the work 
was completed, and the President took possession of the new Executive 
offices, and his family moved into the now commodious quarters of the 
White House. 

The task of the architects had been vastly facilitated by the 
discovery in the Government archives of Hoban's original plans and 
specifications which differed in many respeats from the building he 
subsequently erected. Wherever practicable Messrs. McKim, Mead and 
White endeavored to realize the original architect's conception, with the 
result that the White House, as it stands to-day, is more nearly than 
ever before a fulfillment of Hoban's first intent. 

The alterations accomplished may be briefly summed up as fol- 
lows: the unsightly accumulation of green-houses west of the Wtute 
House was demolished, and the hidden colonnade of the west terrace 
brought to light. The buried foundations of the demolished east 
terrace were located, and both terraces rebuilt on a much more im- 
pressive scale than the originals, yet in hamiony with the spirit revealed 
in Hoban's plans. The new Executive offices erected at the extreme 
end of the W. terrace, aft'orded ample room for the President's official 
staff, making it possible to transform the space formerly occupiea Dy 
them in the S.E. section of the second story of the White House, 
into two additional bed-room suites and bathrooms. The eastern 
terrace was utilized as the main public entrance, including cloak rooms 
with compartments sufficient to meet the needs of 2500 guests. The 



114 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

most radical alteration within the house itself was the removal of the 
N. wall of the State dining-room, for the purpose of taking in the 
western end of the central corridor. This necessitated the sacrifice ot 
the historic old stairs; but it increased the seating capacity of the 
dining-room by 60 per cent, making it now possible to accommodate 
more than a hundred guests. The greatest transformation of all is one 
which has left no outward mark: i. e., the removal of the entire 
original wooden framework, and a substitution throughout of modern 
steel construction. The result is that the White House stands to-day 
essentially an up-to-date fire-proof building, fully adequate, so far as 
may be foreseen, to meet all requirements for a century to come. 

Formerly, not only were the state reception-rooms open 
to the general public, but occasionally, even so late as in the 
seventies, attendants would permit visitors to see some of 
the private apartments during the temporary absence of the 
President's household. For some time past the East Room 
and the corridors through which it is approached have been 
the only parts of the house visible to the casual stranger 
(open daily, 10 a. im. to 2 p. m.) The historic Red, Blue and 
Green Rooms could, however, be seen by special arrange- 
ment. This also applies to the President's offices, which are 
open to visitors only by appointment. 

The White House Grounds. Originally, the "President's 
Square" comprised about seventy acres, extending south to 
the Mall, and along Pennsylvania Ave. from 15th to 17th St., 
thus including the present sites of the Treasuiy Building 
(p. 122), and State, War and Navy Building (p. 126). This 
tract, however, was never fenced in as a whole. The present 
grounds, enclosed by a high iron fence, contain only fourteen 
acres. The two main gateways are on Pennsylvania Ave. 
near the N. E. and N. W. corners respectively. They were the 
scene of the suffragette "picketing" of 1917, and the resultant 
rioting. 

The beauty of the President's Grounds is due in the fin^t instance 
to Andrew Jackson Dowting, who introduced the English land- 
scape gardening system into America, and was commissioned by Con- 
gress to lay out these grounds, together with the Mall and Franklin 
and Lafayette Squares. Bowling died before he had made more 
than a beginning; but his plans were diligently carried out by his 
successor. 

The most notable subsequent improvements were made during the 
Grant administration, when the disfiguring iron fences which bordered 
the circular walks of the north grounds were removed, and the lawn 
thrown open to its present spacious proportions. At the same time 
the two executive avenues to E. and W. of the mansion on a line with 
Madison and Jackson PI. were cut through and graded; and the low 
lands at the S. of the park were filled in and planted with trees and 
shrubbery, by the late George H. Bro'uit, "father of the Washington 
parking system." A still more recent change, made during the Wilson 
administration, is the establishment, under the direction of Col. Harts, 
of two picturesque colonial gardens to the E. and W. of the mansion, 
south of the terraces. 



THE WHITE HOUSE 115 

Many of the trees in the grounds are historic. On the E. knoll 
in the south grounds, is an American elm, planted by President John 
Quincy Adams, and believed to be the oldest tree on the grounds. 
Another elm, almost directly in front of the mansion on the N. side 
is one of a pair planted by President Hayes, on the E. and W. curves 
of the driveway respectively. _ The eastern elm was uprooted -by a storm 
in 1913; the young tree which now occupies its place was planted the 
following year by President Wilson. A little fvtrther N. on the 
driveway is a fine sweet gum tree, planted in 1892 by President 
Harrison. The scarlet oak on the N. of the walk leading to the 
executive offices was set out by President McKinley in the second year 
of his administratiom. The fern-leaved beech near the entrance to the 
E. colonnade is one of a pair planted respectively by President and 
Mrs. Roosevelt. The president's tree died; but that of his wife is in 
fine condition. Lastly, several trees were planted by the grand- 
children of President Harrison; the finest is a scarlet oak, which 
towers over the N. E. gateway. It was set out by little Marie McKee. 

The Interior of the White House. The former main 
entrance to the White House, and the North portico, is now 
reserved for the use of the President's family and personal 
friends. The public, when admitted at all, traverse the length 
of the E. terrace and enter the central hallway of the ground 
floor. On N. and S. are two large ante-rooms (for men and 
women respectively), intended for the use of guests at the 
large receptions. Beyond these ante-rooms a broad and easy 
stairway leads to the floor above. 

This stairway is divided through the middle by a brass 
railing. Guests at receptions ascend the western half of the 
stairway to the receiving line in the Blue Room on the floor 
above, continue thence through the East Room to the door 
opening at the head of these stairs and descend the eastern 
half of the stairway to the wrap-rooms below. 

Opposite the stairs on the ground floor is the room 
remodeled by Col. W. W. Harts during the summer of 1916, 
to contain the steadily augmenting collection of White House 
china, glass and other table-service. Eventually all the wall 
space will be lined with cabinets ; but as yet only one cabinet 
has been installed. It is of the Georgian type and is of hard 
pine, painted ivory white. The pediment is inscribed in gold 
letters "China used by the President." The furniture in the 
room is part of the teakwood set acquired during the McKinley 
administration for the East Room. 

The cabinet is divided into five sections, containing 
variously three, four or five shelves each. The relics are 
arranged in the chronological order of the Presidential suc- 
cession. The oldest pieces are in the central section ; the 
rest of the collection being arranged in order toward right 
and left. 



ii6 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

On the upper shelf of the central section are several pieces of 
the table silver purchased by the Government from the retiring Russian 
Minister, Baron de Tuyll, including a coffee pot and bread tray, on 
which the Baronial Arms can still be traced. In the centre section 
are also the Washington and Adams relics, including a plate from 
Washington's famous Cincinnati dinner set, presented in 1916 by Mary 
Custis Lee, daughter of Robert E. Lee. The most interesting of the 
Adams relics are the John Adams goblet and a silhouette of Abigail 
Adams, first Mistress of the White House. 

On the first shelf, at the L. of the Washingtoniana, is a speci- 
men of the well-known Jefferson blue and white Cantonese porcelain, 
presented by a lineal descendant, the late T. Jefferson Coolidge, of 
Boston. Next to it is the Madison china, including reputed specimens 
of Dolly Madison's famous blue and gold set. 

To the L. of the centre section are relics representing the Presi- 
dents from Fillmore to Benjamin Harrison. Among the Jackson relics 
is one of a pair of old Sheffield candelabra, presented to President 
Jackson by Tammany Hall. President Taylor is represented by an 
ornate Mexican spur, a pair of silver candlesticks and the gold head 
of a cane inscribed "To the hero of Buena Vista." The Lincoln 
exhibit occupies a whole shelf, and most of the dishes were selected 
from the White House closets. They include, however, two recent 
donations, a tea cup and an after dinner coffee cup, which are especially 
prized because they have no duplicates among the White House china. 

The East Entrance Hallway, known also as the "New 
Basement Picture Gallery," contains several interesting por- 
traits : 

I. The second Mrs. Tyler (Julia Gardner), by F. Anelli; 
2. Mrs. Martin Van Buren (Angelica Singleton), wife of 
Alajor Van Buren. son of the President; 3. Mrs. Rutherford 
B. Hayes, by Daniel Huntington, presented by the Women's 
Christian Temperance Union ; 4. Mrs. James K. Polk, pre- 
sented b\^ the Women of Tennessee ; 5. Mrs. Benjamin 
Harrison, by Daniel Huntington, presented by the Daughters 
of the American Republic, of which society she was one-time 
president; 6. Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt, by Chartran. 

Here also are four marble busts: r. Martin Van Buren; 2. John 
Bright; 3. Christopher Columbus; 4. Amerigo Vespucci (the two last 
named are, together with the bust of Washington in the East Room, 
among the earliest art acquisitions of the White House). 

Ascending the stairs the visitor finds himself in the Cen- 
tral Corridor of the main floor, which formerly traversed 
the entire building from E. to W.. but now terminates at 
the point where its western extremity was incorporated into 
the State Dining-Room (p. 120). 

In this corridor are the portraits of several of the more 
recent Presidents : 

I. Chester A. Arthur, by Daniel Huntington; 2. Grover 
Cleveland, by Eastman Johnson; 3. Benjamin Harrison, by 
Eastman Johnson; 4. James A. Garfield, by E. F. Andrezvs; 



THE WHITE HOUSE 117 

5. William McKinley, by August Benzigcr (b. 1867) ; 6. 
Theodore Roosevelt, by John S. Sargent; 7. William 
H. Taft, by Zorn. 

The middle room on the S. side is a large oval apart- 
ment, extending beneath the curving southern portico and 
formerly known as the Diplomatic Room. 

The reason why this room never served its intended purpose is 
that, while the White House was originally intended to face the south, 
with main entrance on the present basement level, the northwest growth 
of the city necessitated transferring the entrance to the higher level 
of the Pennsylvania Ave. facade. 

The western half of the ground floor is now occupied by 
the steward's departments, the storerooms, large and small 
kitchens, heating apparatus and refrigerators. In the lower 
story of the west terrace wing are the laundry and ironing 
rooms, the maids' dining-room and separate quarters for the 
men and women servants. 

The Main Floor is occupied by the state departments, 
with the one exception of the family dining-room, which w^ith 
the adjoining pantry is situated in the N.W. corner, W. of 
main Entrance Hall. South of the Entrance Hall, across the 
corridor, is the elliptical Blue Room, with the Red Room on 
the West adjoining the State Dining Room, and the Green 
Room on the East adjoining the great East Room, which 
occupies the entire width of the East wing. 

Anyone entering the White House by the central northern 
entrance, finds himself in the spacious Vestibule or Reception 
Hall, which is in itself an impressive apartment, measuring 
40x50 ft., and, like all the rooms of the main story, 22 ft. 
from floor to ceiling. The floor and base of wainscot (as in 
the case of the central corridor) are of Joliet stone; the 
walls and ceiling are of plaster, finished in bufif and white. 
At (the S. end there was formerly a much admired but 
inappropriate screen of Tiffany glass, dividing the Reception 
Hall from the corridor. This screen has been replaced by 
a row of six columns. Two large tubs of Istrian stone, con- 
taining plants, occupy the spaces between the columns, on 
each side of the central opening. The E. and W. wall spaces 
are occupied in part by two spacious mirrors, extending 
from floor to ceilng. The Hall is lighted by bronze standards 
and a central bronze lantern, directly beneath which the 
President's seal, in yellow bronze, is inlaid in the stone 
flooring. Similarly, between the central columns is inlaid an 
ellipse of forty-five stars surrounding the dates "1792-1902." 



ii8 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Through the central corridor, whether entering through 
the Vestibule or by way of the Ground Floor, the visitor 
proceeds to the East Room^ the one apartment thrown open to 
the general public. It is the largest room in the White House, 
measuring 40x60 feet. The walls of this room are covered 
with enameled wood paneling, set into which are twelve bas- 
relief panels, representing themes taken from Aesop's "Fables" 
(executed by Piccirilli Bros.). The window draperies are of 
heavy yellow silk damask. Velvet cushioned seats surround 
the walls, but there are no chairs in this room, and the walls 
are bare of pictures, the portraits of General and Mrs. Wash- 
ington, which formerly hung here, having been transferred 
to the Red Room (p. 120). One notable work of art, how- 
ever, is the famous so-called "gold piano," valued at over 
$20,000. The inside of the lid contains a much admired 
painting of the Muses. 

Standing on cabinets set against the E. wall, are two 
beautiful blue Sevres vases, presented to President McKinley 
by the President of France in commemoration of the lajang 
of the Franco-American cable. 

The room is lighted by four bronze candelabra, placed 
respectively in the four corners ; also by three massive crystal 
chandeliers, suspended along the centre of the ceiling. The 
latter date from 1902. The original chandeliers installed in 
President Grant's administration were removed before the re- 
modeling oif the White House, reconstructed and are now 
serving in various Committee Rooms of the Capitol. 

The East Room, which Mrs. Adams once used as a drying-room, was 
originally intended as a State Banquet Hall, and was used as such 
until 1827, since which time it has been the State Reception Room. 
Prior to the restoration of the White House in 1902, it was once again 
used occasionally for large official banquets. 

This room has witnessed many historic scenes, both joyous and 
tragic. Among the brilliant weddings that have here been celebrated 
were those of: Nellie Grant to Algernon Sartoris, May 21st, 1874; 
Alice Roosevelt to Nicholas Longworth, February 17th, 1906; Jessie 
Woodrow Wilson to Francis B. Sayre, November 25th, 19 13. Among 
the many eminent Americans who have lain in State in this same room 
were: President Zacharj^ Taylor, Col. Ellsworth of the N. Y. Zouaves, 
May 24-27, 1861; Willy Lincoln, March 20th, 1862; President 
Lincoln, April 19th. 1865; President Garfield, "Sept. ,20, 1881; 
The wife and daughter of Secretary Tracy, February 5th, 1890; 
President McKinley, 1898; and the first wife of President! Wilson, 
August 7, 19 14. 

The Green Room, reached either through doorway at 
S.W. cor. of the East Room, or through the central corridor, 
is a much smaller apartment, measuring 30x22 ft. Nearly 
everything in this room is new, including the mantel, the 
furniture, rug and chandelier. The wall coverings and window ; 



THE WHITE HOUSE 119 

curtains are of green velvet, copied from an old piece of 
Genoese velvet. On the walls of this room are the portraits 
of the following Presidents : 

I. John Quincy Adams, by G. P. A. Hcaly; 2. Andrew 
Jackson, by E. P. Andrews; 3. Martin Van Buren, by Healy; 
4. William Henry Harrison, by Andrews; 5. Franklin 
Pierce, by Plealy; 6. James Buchanan, by Andrews; 7, 
Abraham Lincoln, Artist unknown; 8. Andrew Johnson, by 
Andrews; 9. Rutherford B. Hayes, by Daniel Huntington. 

Through the western door of the Green Room we enter 
the Blue Room, an elliptical apartment measuring 30x40 ft., 
and generally admitted to be the most beautiful room in the 
White House. The wall covering is a heavy corded blue silk 
embroidered at top and bottom with a Grecian fret. The 
curtain hangings are of the same material, embroidered with 
stars, and the curtain poles are surmounted by gilt eagles. 
The furniture is white and gold, upholstered in blue and gold. 
The mantel, dating from the restoration in 1902, is of pure 
white marble, the shelf being supported on bundles of arrows 
carved in marble with bronze tips and feathers. On the 
mantel stands a massive gold clock, said to have been the 
gift of Napoleon I to Lafayette, and presented by the latter 
to George Washington. 

Blind doors are in the walls near the southern end of the room, 
and at receptions the guests coming from the Red Room pass the 
receiving party standing in a single line directly in front of the 
windo.vs. The guests especially invited to share the Blue Rooni 
with the receiving party, face the President. A silken cord is stretched 
across the room from door to door to insure freedom of passage for 
the guests while being presented. 

The Blue Room was originally the President's dining-room, and 
was known variously as the "Circular Room," "Elliptical Dining-room," 
and later "Oval Reception Room." Under the Madison regime it was 
hung with yellow damask; this gave place successively to old rose, 
green and then for the first time under the Van Buren administra- 
tion, to blue. During Johnson's Presidency it was changed to red; 
while Grant was President it reverted to blue, which has remained 
its distinctive color ever since, the only variation having occurred 
during the Arthur administration, when the room was redecorated by 
Tiffany, and the pale tint adopted caused it to be temporarily called 
the "Robin's Egg Room." 

This has long been the favorite room for White House weddings. 
Among them may be mentioned the following: i. Maria Hester Monroe 
(daughter of the President) to Samuel Lawrence Gouverneur, March 
9th, 1820; 2. Mary Hellen (niece of Mrs. John Quincy Adams) to 
John Adams (son of the President), February loth, 1828; 3. Delia 
Lewis (daughter of an intimate friend of President Jackson) to 
Alphonse Josephe Yver Pageot (Secretary of the French Legation) ; 
4. _Mary Easton (niece of Mrs. Jackson) to Lucius B. Polk (also 
during the Jackson administration); 5. Elizabeth Tyler (third daughter 
of the President) to William Waller, January 31st, 1842; 6. Emily 
Piatt (niece of President Hayes) to Gen. Russell Hastings, June 19th, 



120 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

1878; 7. Frances Folsom to President Grover Cleveland, June 2d, 
1886. (For twenty years, from 1886 to 1906, there were no weddings 
in the White House), 8. Eleanor Randolph Wilson (youngest daugh- 
ter of the President) to William G. McAdoo (Secretary of the Treas- 
ury), May 7th, 1914. 

It was in the Blue Room that a brilliant reception was given to 
the Infanta Eulalie, daughter of the Queen Regent of Spain, May 19th, 
1893. 

The Red Room, situated immediately W. of the Blue 
Room, corresponds in position and dimensions to the Green 
Room (see above). This room is wainscoted in white enamel; 
the wall covering and curtains are of red velvet, and the 
furniture is upholstered in red damask. The room contains a 
richly carved mahogany cabinet, ornamented with gold, in 
which are seven exquisitely dressed male and female Japanese 
dolls, the whole constituting a present to Mrs. Roosevelt 
from the Japanese Legation. On the walls of the room are 
a number of portraits, including the historic full-length por- 
trait of George Washington, which formerly hung in the East 
Room and was long attributed to Gilbert Stuart, but is now 
admitted to be a copy by an obscure English artist. 

The traditional story still told to visitors is that Mrs. Dolly Madi- 
son cut this painting from its frame with a pair of scissors to save it 
from destruction by the British, and carried it with her in her fight 
from the Capital. But according to the testimony of her own letters, 
the painting was entrusted to the care of Mr. Custis, a nephew of 
Washington, who had come post-haste from Arlington to save it. The 
canvas was not cut or otherwise damaged, for a servant broke and 
removed! the outer frame, leaving' the picture intact. 

Here also is a portrait of Martha Washington, by E. F. 
Andrews, painted in 1878. Being a modern work, its chief 
interest centers in the fact that the dress is a faithful repro- 
duction of a masquerade costume made in Paris, and worn 
at a Martha Washington Centennial Tea Party, given in 
Philadelphia in 1876. The other portraits in this room are: 

I. John Adams, by G. P. ^. //(^a/y,- 2. Thomas Jefferson, 
by E. F. Andrezvs; 3. James Madison, Artist unknoivn; 
4. James Monroe. Artist unknown; 5. Zachary Taylor, by 
Andrezvs; 6. James K. Polk, by Healy; 7. Ulysses S. Grant, 
by Le Clair: (y-vin^c^j - *'-• c-txc^ 

The State Dining-room, adjoining the Red Room on 
the W., is now the second largest room in the White House, 
thanks to its enlargement in 1902, whereby, instead of accom- 
modating from 50 to 60 guests, it can now seat a maximum of 
107. The walls are paneled from floor to ceiling in dark 
English oak, richly carved ; the chandelier and wall-branches 
are of silver ; around the frieze are placed mounted heads 



THE WHITE HOUSE 121 

of American Game; on the floor is an Indian carpet in solid 
color; the window draperies are in green velvet. In this 
room are two tapestries of 17th century Flemish workmanships 
the one over the mantel illustrating a scene from Vergil's 
"Eighth Eclogue," and inscribed with the following quotation 
(in Latin) : 

"Nysa is given in marriage to Mopsus! What may not we lovers 
expect? 

Griffins novir snail mate with horses, and in the succeeding age the 
timorous does shall come to drink with dogs. 

Begin with me, my flute, Maenalian strains. 

Mopsus, cut fresh nuptial torches; for a wife is on the point of 
being brought home." 

The Family Dining-room, directly N. of the State 
Dining-room, is finished in green. It is reached from the 
second floor by a private staircase. The Main Stairway to 
the second floor leads from the E. wing of the central 
corridor. It is constructed of Joliet stone, and consists of a 
broad flight from the main floor to the landing, where it 
divides into two flights. A double gate of wrought iron, 
which rolls back into pockets in the walls, stands at the foot 
of the staircase. 

The Second Story, known as the "Family Floor," is 
devoted to the living rooms of the President's family, guest- 
chambers and the President's private office and library. As 
on the floor below, the Family Floor has a wide corridor, 
running E. and W., connecting two large sitting-rooms, one 
on the E., above the East Room, the other on the W., above 
the State Dining-room. There are seven bed-rooms on this 
floor, each with an adjoining bathroom. The four largest are 
situated respectively in the four corners, and each includes a 
small dressing-room. The N.W. bed-room was President 
Arthur's rooimi, and later the Clevelands' sleeping-iroom. Dur- 
ing the Harrison administration it was converted into a 
nursery for the young McKees. The opposite suite, in the 
S.W. cor., was occupied by Miss Rose Cleveland during part 
of President Cleveland's first term. In this room Mrs. Har- 
rison died; and here also President Garfield was brought 
after being wounded by the assassin, Guiteau. The bed-room 
immediately E., and directly over the Green Room, was long 
known as the "Prince of Wales' Room." Among the Presi- 
dents who have occupied it are Grant and Benjamin Harrison. 
This is the room which was assigned to Miss Frances Folsom 
on the eve of her marriage to President Cleveland. Subse- 
quently, it was transformed into a nursery for Ruth Cleveland- 



122 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

The next room to the E., an oval apartment, directly over 
the Blue Room, is now the President's Library. Beyond 
the Library, and opposite the main stairway, is the President's 
STUDY AND PRIVATE OFFICE, formerly known and used as the 
"Cabinet Room." On the marble mantel is the. following 
inscription : 

"This room was first used for meetings of the Cabinet during the 
administration of President Johnson. It continued to be so used until 
the year MCMII. Here the treaty of peace with Spain was signed." 

The entire eastern half of the attic floor is used for stor- 
age purposes. In the western half are the servants' bed-rooms 
and bath-room. 

IV. Other Buildings in the Executive Grounds 
a. The Treasury Building 

**The United States Treasury Building (PI. II— D4) at 
the S. W. cor. of Pennsylvania Ave. and 15th St., is an imposing 
rectangular granite structure, extending 468 ft. N. to S., and 
264 ft. E. to W. ; or inclusive of porticoes and steps 582 x 300 
ft. The order is pure Grecian Ionic, the columns and pilas- 
ters rising through the three stories of the superstructure, 
above which is an attic. Below are two basement stories, the 
lower one being rustic. The building is surmounted by a 
stone balustrade. The original section, now the east wing, 
was designed by Robert Mills; the N., S. and W. extensions 
by Thomas U. Walter. 

The site of the Treasury Building was formerly occu- 
pied by two brick Department buildings, corresponding in 
general design with the old War and Navy Buildings, W. of 
the White House (p. 126). The northernmost, or State 
Department Building was erected in January, 1820, approxi- 
mately where the north wing of the present building now 
stands, while the south wing covers the site of the original 
Treasury Building, contracted for by the Federal City Com- 
missioners, June 23d, 1798, at an estimated cost of $39,511. 
This was one of the buildings destroyed by the British in 
1814. The second Treasury Building, erected on the same 
site, was destroyed by fire in 1833. It was determined that 
the new edifice should be built upon a much more imposing 
scale, and the plans drawn by Robert Mills were accepted. 
By Act of Congress, dated July 4th, 1836. the President was 
directed to cause a site to be selected. It was the intention 
of the Committee in charge to choose a position such that 
the proposed structure would not interfere with an uninter- 



TREASURY BUILDING 123 

rupted view along Pennsylvania Ave., from the Capitol to the 
White House. Through lack of unanimity of opinion, the 
choice was so long delayed that President Jackson, so the 
story goes, becoming impatient one day, thrust his walking- 
stick into the ground at the N. E. cor. of what is now the 
eastern wing, exclaiming, "Here, right here, I want the 
cornerstone laid." This story is corroborated by testimony 
given by the architect in 1836, before a Congressional com- 
mittee to the effect that the precise position of the building 
had been "determined by the positive directions of the late 
President." 

The older portion of the Treasury Building, designed 
by Robert Mills, was commenced in 1836, and finished in 1841, 
at a cost of $660,773. It was T-shaped, consisting of a colon- 
nade facing E., and extending 340 ft. along 15th St., and a 
central wing projecting W. 170 ft. The facing of the outer 
walls and the thirty Ionic columns of the colonnade, were of 
Acquia Creek sandstone. In 1855 it had become evident that 
the Treasury Department had quite outgrown its quarters, 
and Thomas U. Walter was entrusted with the task of plan- 
ning enlargements on an extensive scale. His designs called 
for the erection of a N. and S. wing, extending westward 264 
ft, and connected by a W. wing which, uniting midway with 
the old central wing, formed a parallelogram, enclosing two 
square courts. Work on the extensions was begun in 1855, 
after Congress had passed an appropriation of $300,000. In 
1861 the S. wing was completed. Further progress was de- 
layed during the Civil War, and it was not until i86g that the 
final touches were put to the entrance portico of the N. wing. 
The edifice, begun by Young, from Walter's designs, was con- 
tinued by Rogers and completed by Mullett, at a cost of 
j approximately $6,000,000. 

I ^ All of the Treasury extensions, including the huge mono- 

- lithic columns and pilasters, are of granite from Dix Island, 

Maine. It was of these monoliths, lying along the street, en- 

I cased in wood, during the Civil War, that "Bull Run" Rus- 

I sell, correspondent of the London Times, taking a pessimistic 

view of the Capital City's future fate, wrote that they were 

I "lying there in their wooden coffins, with their heads as near 

Heaven as they would ever get to be." For nearly two-score 

I years the artistic unity of this building remained marred by 

, the incongruity of its three granite and one sandstone 

' fagades ; but at last, in 1907-08, the sandstone facing and drum 

i columns of the E. wing were replaced by granite from Mil- 

( ford. New Hampshire. 



124 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

The first Inaugural Ball o£ President Grant was held, in 
1869, in the north front of this building. 

The Treasury Building contains the offices of the Secretary of the 
Treasury and his Staff, and the following fiscal bureaus and offices: 
Comptroller of the Currency; Treasurer of the United States; Com- 
mi9sioner of Internal Revenue; Director of the Mint and Bureau of the 
Budget. The last named, most recent of all the Bureaus, was created 
by Act approved June 10, 1921; Its chief duties are to prepare for the 
President the annual Budget, and such supplemental estimates as he may 
recommend from time to time to Congress. The Treasury Building 
also contains the office of the supervising Architect, whose duties include 
the construction, alteration and repairs of all public buildings, and 
securing cessions from States of jurisdiction over sites, and payment 
for same. 

Today there is comparatively little to be seen by the 
casual tourist within the Treasury Building. The operation 
of printing all paper money, postage and revenue stamps is 
now conducted at the Bureau of Engraving and Print'ng. 
The famous Silver and Gold Vaults, in which is stored 
the greater portion of the Government's gold and silver 
reserve, situated in the sub^basement, beneath the N. wing, 
are shown only to visitors personally known to the Treasurer. 
These vaults are protected not only by combination and time- 
locks, but still further by an electrical protection system. It 
is said that upward of $100,000,000 is' stoired in one of these 
vaults. 

The main entrance is beneath the N. Portico, facing 
Pennsylvania Ave. Along the walls of the entrance hall, and 
along the North Corridor, are cases containing numerous in- 
teresting exhibits, all fully labelled. They include: 

Entrance Hall, E. Side: i. Redeemed fractional currency, 1862-76 
issues; Old keys to Treasury Vaults and money boxes, before the 
introduction of combination locks; 2. Specimens of redeemed mutilated 
bills; 3. Specimens of Gold and Silver* bars of various sizes^ and purity. 

West Side: i. Case containing rolled strips of gold from which 
Double Eagle, Eagle, Half and Quarter Eagle gold planchets are 
punched; also coin-gold ingot for Eagles, weight, 113 oz., 900 fine, value, 
$2102 (cuts 130 planchets); 2, Minor coins and planchets; bars of 
nickel for 5 cent pieces, weight 21 2/10 lbs., value $3.60 (cuts 1200 
planchets) ; Bar of bromze for one cent pieces, weight 23 lbs., value 
$3-45 (cuts 2ioa planchets). 

North Corridor, South Side (W. to _E.) : i. Presidential Medals; 
2. Navy ]\Iedals; 3. Army Medals; 4. Original hand-engraved dies for 
coin; specimen of transfer order of $60,000,000 from Denver to N. Y. 
Sub-Treasury; Grant of $200,000 to General Lafayette for services 
during" the Revolution. 

On N. side^of aisle, near E. end, hangs the ^-plag draped 
above box occupied by President Lincoln, in Ford's Theatre. 
April 14, 1865. The rip in lower edge of flag was made by 
Booth's spur where it caught as he leaped from the box after 
shooting the President. 



TREASURY BUILDING 125 

The Cash Room, diagonally opposite the Pennsylvania 
Ave. entrance, is the show room of the Treasury Building, 
and reputed to be one of the costliest in the world. It extends 
upward through two stories, and is hest seen from the gallery 
(open daily from 9 A.M. to 2 P.M.; no pass required). 

The lower story has a stylobate base of black Vermont marble, 
with mouldings of Bordiglio (Italian) marble, and panels of Sienna 
marble. Above this base are pilasters of black-veined Italian marble, 
and panels of Bordiglio marble. The upper story is like the lower, 
excepting that some of the panels are of Sarrangolum marble, from 
the Pyrenees. 

As its name implies the Cash Room is a cashier's office, where the 
Treasury cashes the various warrants drawn upon it, and presented 
here for payment. The daily transactions run into millions. 

North of the Treasury Building in front of main entrance is a 
fountain consisting of an immense granite vase, the tassa of which, 
measuring 12 ft. in diameter, is carved from one solid block of granite. 

In Sherman Plaza, facing the S. front of the Treasury 
building, stands the *Monument to Gen. William Tecumseh 
Sherman (1820-91), designed by Carl Rohl-Smith. It con- 
sists of an equestrian statue in bronze, heroic size, supported 
on a lofty pedestal of Vermont granite, standing on an emi- 
nence and approached from all four sides by a series of stone 
steps. At the four corners of the spacfbus base stand bronze 
figures of young soldiers in uniforms of the Civil War period, 
representing, respectively, the Cavalry, Infantry, Artillery 
and Engineers. The adornments of the pedestal consist of : 
I. Commemorative inscriptions ; 2. Symbolic groups repre- 
senting War and Peace ; 3. A series of four bas-relief tablets 
representing leading episodes in Sherman's military career ; 
4. Medallions of the principal officers on Sherman's staff. 
[These are placed as follows : 

I North side: Bas-relief represents "Sherman's March 
ithrough Georgia" ; below are the following inscriptions from 
his public utterances : 

"On no earthly account will I do any act or think any thought 
hostile to or in defiance of the old government of the United States," 

i Alexandria, Louisiana, Jan. i8th, 1861. 

I "War's legitimate object is more perfect peace," Washington, 
D. C, Feb. 23d, 1882. 

i West side: Symbolic group, "War." "War personifies a 
'terrible woman who tramples humanity under foot. She is 
'attended by Vultures, illustrating Sherman's famous comment, 
'War is Hell,'" Mrs. Carl Rohl-Smith. Below (to L. and R.) 
jfour medallion portraits, by Mrs. Theodore A. R. Kitson, of 
Boston: Logan, Blair, Ransom and Dodge; in the middle: 
bas-relief. "Sherman at the camp-fire." 



126 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 



"It was singularly impressive," says one biographer, "to see this 
soldierly figure walking there by the flickering camp-fire, while the 
army slept." 

South side: Bas-relief depicting the "Battle of Atlanta"; 
note especially the remarkable perspective; Sherman and his 
staff are watching the progress of an engagement taking place 
two or three miles away and largely obscured by the smoke 
of battle. The names of the principal officers and regiments 
are inscribed along the base of the tablet. 

East side: Symbolic group, "Peace," representing "a 
young girl with flowering branch of a fruit tree ; at her feet, 
on one side, the strong succors the weak; on the other side, 
animals are being fed, thus symbolizing the ideal and material 
sides of life," Mrs. Rohl-Smith ; below (to L. and R.) : 
medallion portraits of A. G. Smith, Grierson, Howard and 
McPherson. In the center, bas-relief, "Sherman at Mission- 
ary Ridge." 

The monument was unveiled in 1903. The cost was borne by 
tire Society of the Army of Tennessee, which contributed $11,000, 
and by the United States. An offer was made of $90,000 for com- 
petitive designs, and the competition was won by Carl Rohl-Smith in 
Jan., 1896. According to the terms of the contract the work was to 
be done in four years. The sculptor asked and received a year's 
extension, but died before completing his task, . in Copenhagen, Aug. 
20th, 1900. The work w-as so far advanced that it was decided to 
carry out tbe sculptor's designs. The working models of the Eques- 
trian and three of the soldiers were completed; the four bas-reliefs 
were nearly finished; and designs for War and Peace had been care- 
fully worked out. The completion of the work was accomplished by 
the aid of the follov/ing artists: 

The Equestrian) figure was completed by Laurits Jensen, of Copen- 
hagen; the/ fourth soldier was modeled by Sigvald Asbjomsen, of 
Chicago; Peace was finished by Stephen Sinding and Carl J. Bonnesen, 
of Copenhagen; and War by Sinding and Asbjomsen. 

Surrounding the monument and on a level with the Park, 
is a spacious mosaic pavement recording the names of all the 
battles in which Gen. Sherman took part. This was designed 
by Mrs. Rohl-Smilh, for which Congress appropriated $8000. 

b. The State, War and Navy Building 

The *State, War and Navy Building (PL II— C4), until 
the recent completion of the new Interior Department Bliildinii 
(p. 213), the second largest Government edifice in Wash- 
ington, occupies the S. E. cor. of Pennsylvania Ave. and 17th 
St., directly W. of the White House. It was designed ^ by 
A. B. MuUctt, supervising architect of the Treasury, and is a 
conspicuous example of his fondness for Renaissance architec- 



STATE, WAR AND NAVY BUILDING 127 

ture. It is on the Roman Doric order, and consists o£ a huge 
quadrangular structure, comprising a basement and sub- 
basement of Maine granite, and a four-story superstructure 
of Virginia granite, surmounted by a mansard roof. 
Dimensions: from N. to S. 567 ft.; from E. to W., 342 ft.; 
maximum height, 128 ft. There is a central pavilion with 
stairway and portico, consisting of a two or three-storied col- 
onnade with the columns grouped in pairs on all four fa- 
cades. The E. and W. pavilions comprise six stories, inclusive 
of the mansard. The building was begun in 1871, and the S. 
pavilion was finished and occupied by the Depairtment of 
State in 1875. Mr. Mullett was succeeded as supervising ar- 
chitect by General E. O. Babcock and Col. T. L. Casey, U. S. 
Engineers. The building, finally completed in 1893, covers 
4^ acres, and contains approximately two miles of corri- 
dors. The total cost was $10,405,850. 

This building occupies an historic site. Here, in 1 799-1801, was 
erected the first U. S. Department Building for the accommodation of 
the State, War and Navy Departments. In 1802 the Post Office 
Department was temporarily housed in this building. On August 25, 
1814, it was burned during the British occupation. Subsequently, two 
bridk buildings were erected on this site, one of them (in 1820) at the 
N. end, fronting on Pennsylvania Ave., and occupied by the War De- 
partment (dimensions 130x60 ft.); the other (in 1815) directly S., on 
the site of the destroyed building occupied by the N'avy Department 
(dimensions 59x57 ft.). These buildings were demolished in 1879 to 
make way for the new edifice. 

As its name implies, this building formerly held the 
principal offices of the State, War and Navy Departments, 
the first named occupying the southern section of the build- 
ing; the second, the western side; and the third, the eastern 
side. Since the completion, however, of the new Navy Build- 
ing (p. 34^) all the offices and bureaus of that Department 
have been removed, with the sole exception of the Navy 
Library. 

Hours. The buifding is open to the pubHc week days, 
holidays excepted, from 9 A. M. to 2 P. M. 

iThe visitor, approaching by the main or Pennsylvania 
Ave. entrance, will note on either side of exterior stairway 
I number of interesting war trophies. They include two 
Bronze Cannon captured at Santiago in 1898, and cast at 
pouay respectively in 1693 and in 1748; an 8-in. Bronze 
ijowitzer surrendered at Yorktown, Oct. 19, 1781 ; two small 
Cannon taken in the War with Mexico, and named respectively 



fter the Evangelists: "San Mateo" and "San Marco"; and 
^n original 42-pounder Rodman Gun, used in defence of Fort 
5umter, re-enforced and rifled in Richmond by the Con- 
ederates, and later recaptured by the Federal forces. 



128 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

If the visitor upon entering applies at E. end of North 
Corridor, an official guide may be obtained to conduct him 
through such roonis as arc O'pen to the public. A guide, how- 
ever, is not necessary ; and many tourists prefer to visit these 
rooms unattended and at their leisure. 

The Offices of the Secretary of State are situated in the 

5. Corridor, on the second floor. The Secretary's private 
office can be visited only by those having official business. 
The Ante-room, however (No. 214), is open to visitors, and 
contains an important collection of ^Portraits of former 
Secretaries of State. 

North Wall (E. to W.) : i. Elihu Root, Sec. of State 
1905-09 (Roosevelt's Administration); 2. Thomas S. Ba}-ard, 
Sec. of State 1885-89 (Cleveland's Admin.) ; 3. John C. 
Calhoun, Sec. of jState 1842-46 (Tyler's Admin.) ; Thomas 
Jefferson, Sec. of State 1793-1801 (Adams' Admin.), by 
C. L. Ransom, after Wilson Pcale; 5. T. Frelinghuysen, Sec. 
of State 1884-85 (Arthur's Admin.), by Daniel Huntington; 

6. John W. Foster, Sec. of State 1892-93 (Harrison's 
Admin.), by Henry Floyd; 7. William M. Evarts, Sec. ot" 
State 1877-81 (Hayes' Admin.) ; 8. Robert 'Smith, Sec. of 
State 1809- 1 1 (Madison's Admin.), by Freeniun Thorp; 9. 
Henry Clay, Sec. of State 1825-29 (John Quincy Adams' 
Admin.) : 10. James G. Blaine, Sec. of State 1881 and 1889-92 
(Garfield's and Harrison's Admin.) ; 11. William R. Day, Sec. 
of State 1898 (McKinley's Admin.), by Albert Sterner; 12. 
James Madison. Sec. of State 1801-09 (Jefferson's Admin.), 
by A. G. Heaton. 

West Wall: (N. to S.) i. John Hay, Sec. of State 1898- 
1905 (McKinley's and Roosevelt's Admin.) ; 2. William 
Jennings Bryan, Sec. of State 1913-15 (Wilson's Admin.), 
by Irving R. Wiles. 

South Wall: (W. to E.) i. Martin Van Buren, Sec. oi 
State 1829-31 (Jackson's Admin.), by E. E. Andrews; 2. John 
Marshall, Sec. of State 1800 (Adams' Admin.) ; 3. John 
Quincy Adams. Sec. of State 1817-25 (Monroe's Admin.) ; 

4. Edward Everett, Sec. of State 1852-53 (Fillmore's Admin.) ;; 

5. William R. Marcy, Sec. of State 1853-57 (Pierce's ' 
Admin.) ; 6. John M. Clayton, Sec. of State 1849-50 (Taylor's ; 
Admin.) ; 7. Louis McLanc, Sec. of State 1853-54 (Pierce's 
Admin.), by Hinckley; 8. Jeremiah Black, Sec. of State 
1860-61 (Buchanan's Admin.) ; 9. John Forsyth, Sec. of 
State 1834-41, (Jackson's and Van Buren's Admin.), by i 
Freeman Thorp; 10. William H. Seward, Sec. of State' 

I 



STATE, WAR AXD NAVY BUILDING 129 

1861-69 (Lincoln's and Johnson's Admin.) ; 11. Hamilton 
Fish, Sec. of State 1869-77 (Grant's Admin.), by Daniel 
Huntington. 

East Wall: (S. to N.) i. John Sherman, Sec. of State 
1897-98 (A'IcKinley's Admin.), by C. A. Whipple; 2. Philander 
C. Knox, Sec. of State 1909-13 (Taft's Admin.), by Alphonse 
Jongers. 

The Diplomatic Reception Room, diagonally opposite on 
the south corridor, in which the Secretary receives foreign 
Ministers, also contains a number of portraits : 

East Wall: (S. to N.) i. Robert Bacon, Sec. of State 
1900 (Roosevelt's A'dmin.). by Sorolla y Bastida ; 2. Richard 
Olney, Sec. of State 1895-97 (Cleveland's Admin.), by 
Hubert Vos. 

West Wall: (N. to S.) i. Daniel Webster, Sec. of State 
1841-43 (Wm. H. Harrison's Admin.), by G. P. A. Healey; 
2. Lord Ashburton, by G. P. A. Healey. 

South Wall: Walter Q. Gresham, Sec. of State. 

The State Library (Room 308), on the third floor, 
south corridor, was formerly regarded as the most interesting 
room in the building since it contained the original Declara- 
tion of Independence, which for greater safety has recently 
been transferred to the custody of the Library of Congress. 
The State Library, however, still possesses a number of 
national heirlooms which merit a visit, including the Szi'ord 
of Washington and the Staff of Franklin. 

The Sword was one of four bequeathed by Washington to his four 
nephews, and was in turn willed by Samuel 'Washington to his- son by 
whom it was presented to Congress in 1843. The Stafif was bequeathed 
by Franklin to Washington, "my friend and the friend of mankind." 
The will describes it afi "my fine crab-tree walking stick, with a gold 
head curiously wrought in the form of the Cap of Liberty. ... It 
was a present to me from that excellent woman, Madame de Forbach, 
the dowager Duchess of Deux-Ponts." 

The Library is open from 9 A. M. to 4 P. M. daily, 
except Sundays and holidays. It is a reference library for 
the use of the Department of State and Diplomatic corps. 
Others, however, may consult books by obtaining permission 
from the Secretary, Assistant Secretaries or Chief of the 
Bureau. The collection, comprising approximately 70,000 
volumes, consists principally of works on international law, 
diplomacy, history, travel, foreign law and biographies of 
statesmen. 

The Offices of the Secretary of War are on the second 
floor, west corridor. The Secretary's Reception Room (No. 



130 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

231) is open to the public, and contains a collection of por- 
traits of former Secretaries of War. 

North Wall: (E. to W.) i. John M. Scofield, Sec. ot 
War 1868-69 (Johnson's Admin,), by H. P. Curtis; 2. Al- 
phonso Taft (father of ex-President Taft), Sec. of War 
1876 (Grant's Admin.), by Daniel Huntington; 3. Stephen B. 
Elkins, Sec. "of War 1891-93 (Harrison's Admin.), 4. John 
P. Rawlins, Sec. of War 1869 (Grant's Admin.), by Robert 
W. Weir; 5. Jacob M. Dickinson, Sec. of War 1909-11 
(Taft's Admin.). In N. W. cor. stands a marble bust of 
Edwin M. Stanton. 

West Wall: (N. to S.) i. Henry Stimson. Sec. of War 
1911-13 (Taft's Admin.), by Gari Melchers; 2. Lindley M. 
Garrison, Sec. of War 1913-16 (Wilson's Admin.), by Emil 
Fuchs. 

South Wall: Major General Horatio Gates {1777). 

East Wall: (S. to N.) i. Major Gen. Hugh L. Scott, 
Sec. ad-interim, Fdb. -March 19116 (Wilson's Admin.) ; 2. 
Alexander Ramsev, Sec. of War 1879-81 (Haves' Admin.) ; 
3. Gen. William W. Belknap, Sec. of War 1869-76 (Grant's 
Admin.), by Huntington; 4. Newton W. Baker. Sec. of War 
1916-21 (Wilson's Admin.) ; 5. Robert T. Lincoln, Sec. of 
War 1876-77 (Grant's Admin.), by D. Cameron. 

On W. Wall are flags from Fort Sumter ; the one on L. 
was the Garrison Flag that floated over the Fort during the 
bombardment. See bronze tablet. On S. Wall, above man- 
tel is a case containing the flag which wrapped the cofifin 
of Abraham Lincoln on the journey from Washington to 
Springfield, 111.. April, 1865. "The clock on the mantel was 
installed by Jefferson Davis when Secretary of War in 1853. 

The S. door leads through an intermediate room to the 
Secretary of War's private office. (Not open to visitors 
except on busiiness). In this office hang the following pic- 
tures : 

North Wall: Elihu Root. Sec. of War 1899-1904, by 
Madrazo; East Wall: *General Henry Knox, First Secre- 
tary of War 1789, by Young after Gilbert Stuart; South 
Wall : Edwin M. Stanton, by Henry Ulke. 

In the intermediate room are the following portraits : 

East Wall: i. James ]McHenry, Sec. of W^ar 1796, by 
Daniel Huntington, after Pollock; 2. Alexander J. Dallas, 
Sec. ad-interim 1815, by Ph. Morton: 3. William H. Craw- 
ford. Sec. of War 1815. bv Huntington afte • John JVeslev 
Jarvis. North Wall: i. 'Wini:im C. Everett; 2. Russell 



THE OLD RESIDENTIAL SECTION 131 

Alger; 3. Jefferson Davis, 1853-57^ by Huntington. West Wall: 
I. George W. Crawford, 1849-50, by Huntington; 2. Gen. 
Peter B. Porter, 1828, by Huntington after IVcir. South 
Wall: I. Luke T. Wright; 2. John C. Calhoun, 1817, by 
Jarvis. 

The Navy Department Library, situated on the fourth 
floor, east corridor, is primarily for the use of the Officers 
of the Navy, and is officially closed to the general public. 
Visitors, however, will usually be admitted to the Reception 
Room, considered the finest apartment in the building. It 
measures 30 x 50 ft., with iron walls inlaid with 32 marble 
panels of Malachite, Sienna and Porphyry, given respectively 
by France, Italy and Spain. The Onyx disks that adorn the 
balcony rail were presented by Mexico, and the inlaid floor 
of Minton tiling by England. All these gifts were made 
during Grant's Administration. Especially notable are the 
four candelabra, consisting of bronze figures weighing 800 
lbs. each, which occupy the four corners, and represent 
respectively : i. War and Peace ; 2. Liberty ; 3. Industry and 
Mechanics; 4. Literature, Arts and Commerce. Outside," 
above entrance door, is a stone brought from Pomipeii. 

The resources of the Library are approximately 50,000 vols., ex- 
clusive of public documents which have never been accessioned. The 
collection is chiefly technical and professional, and is classed as one of 
the principal naval libraries of the world. Among its treasures are 
manuscript records of the War of 18 12. 

The room directly beneath the Naval Library, formerly 
the Reception Room of the Secretary of State, is now oc- 
cupied by General Pershing. 

The collection of models of historic battleships, which 
formerly occupied the corridors of the main floor, have been 
removed to the new Navy Building (p. 346). 

In leaving by main N. doorway, the visitor should note on E. Wall 
a Bronze T-ablet commemorating "The services and sufferings of the 
243.I35 horses and _ mules employed by the American Expeditionary 
Forces overseas during the great World War." 

V. The Old Residential Section 

(From C Street to Judiciary Square) 

C Street between 3d St. and John Marshall Place, was, 
until about 1870. the center of one of the most fashionable 
residential sections in Washington. As the center of fashion 
shifted N. and W., this locality remained a quiet back-water, 
scarcely touched by modern growth. Most of the old houses, 
full of historic associations, are still standing. 



132 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Trinity Church (founded 1829), the third Protestant 
Episcopal Church, occupies the N. E. cor. of C and 3d Sts. 
Its first edifice was on 5th St., between D and E Sts., on the 
site now occupied by the Columbian Building. The present 
church, dating from 1851, is a Gothic structure of brown- 
stone, with two octagonal towers surmounted by spires sug- 
gestive of minarets. In the center of the auditorium the 
ceiling rises in a spacious octagon. This was one of the 
churches used as hospitals during the Civil War. Henry Clay 
and Daniel Webster both attended service at Trinity. 

One block N., on the triangle formed by 3d and D Sts, 
and Indiana Ave., stands a bronze statue of Gen. Albert Pike 
(1809-91), a standing figure, heroic size, erected in 1901 by 
the Masonic Fraternity. Below is a seated bronze female 
figure symbolizing Fame and bearing a banner. G. Trenta- 
nove, sculptor. 

No. 318 Indiana Ave. was the home of Chief Justice 
Taney, and here he died in 1864. No. 324 was the last home 
of Rear-Admiral Robley D. Evans ("Fighting Bob"). It is 
now occupied by his married daughter. 

The large old-fashioned dwelling opposite Trinity Church, 
N. W. cor. of C St., was built in 1849 for David Aiken Hall, 
a distinguished member of the District Bar, and an intimate 
friend of Daniel Webster, with whom he was associated in 
many legal battles. Mr. Hall's first wife was daughter of 
Charles Bulfinch, one of the architects of the Capitol. This 
house is now a Temporary Home for ex-Union Soldiers and 
Sailors, under the Board of Charities. 

The square brown house on S. E. cor. of 3d St., with old- 
fashioned iron trimmings and a pagoda-like- roof, is now 
occupied (11922) by the Boys' Club of Washington. It was 
formerly for many years the residence of "Duke" William 
M. Gwin, and in ante-bellum days was regarded as one of the 
/'~^show places of Washington. 

William M. Gwin was colleagvie of Fremont as Senator from Cali- 
fornia. In earlier years he was one of the House members from 
Mississippi, and was recognized as the millionaire representative of the 
South, dictating all moves made in defense of states' rights and 
^.^^slavery. He went to Mexico to help Maximilian establish his brief 
Empire, and was rewarded with the empty title of Duke of Sonora. 

On the fourth or S. W. cor. of 3d St. is the Crosby House, 
an unpretentious rooming and boarding house. It was erected 
about 1836 as the private residence of Alarshall Cary Selden, 
and was a favorite rendezvous of fashionable society. 

South on 3d St. are several interesting old houses on the 
colonial order of architecture. No. 219, regarded as one of 
the best examples of its type in the city, dates from 1831, and 



THE OLD RESIDENTIAL SECTION 133 

was for some years a popular Congressional boarding-house. 
Franklin Pierce, Jonathan Cilley, James M. Mason and Robert 
C. Winthrop resided here while members of Congress. Diag- 
onally opposite, -No. 224, was formerly Mrs. Beveridge's 
famous Indian boarding-house, which harbored such notables 
as Red Cloud, White Feather and Crazy Horse. No. 226 
occupies the site where Millard Fillmore and John C. Calhoun 
once resided. 

Opposite on C St., No. 302, was the house of John W. 
Maury, Mayor of Washington 1852-53, and for many years 
president of the Bank of the Metropolis (now National 
Metropolitan Bank). No. 304 was, from 1839 until his death 
in 1867, the home of Dr. William Jones, whose wife was a 
sister of the late William W. Corcoran. • No. 306 was in 1847 
rented from its owner. Dr. Jonas Green, by Robert C. Win- 
throp, Speaker of :he House. The adjoining Arizona Hotel 
occupies in part the former site of 308, owned and occupied 
; for a time by Francis Scott Key, author of "The Star- 
I Spangled Banner," whose widow sold it in 1843. 
! No. 315 was once the home of Henry C. Schoolcraft, the 
well-known writer on Indian themes, and his wife, Mary 
J Schoolcraft. 

,i No. 322 was the home of Henry L. Ellsworth of Indiana, 
I first Commissioner of Patents (1836-48), whose daughter in 
'. 1842 dispatched the first telegraph message ever sent (p. 82) ; 
it was occupied by James Campbell while Postmaster Gen- 
eral (1853-57) ; and later was the home of Zenas C. Robbins, 
a prominent patent la\\yer and personal friend of Lincoln. 

Robbins was one of five commissioners appointed to organize a 
local Police Force. It is related that Lincoln, upon meeting the newly 

1 assembled board, explained to the five, naming them one by one, that 
he had appointed them on this, that and the other recommendation, 
concluding with the words, ''and I have appointed Mr. Robbins to 

! please myself." 

The second house to the W., No. 326, was the temporary 

\ home of Gen. John C. Fremont, the "Paiihfinder," when a 

( struggling young Lieutenant of Engineers ; and it was from 

I here in 1841 that he eloped with Jessie, the prettiest daughter 

of his near neighbor. Sen. Thomas H. Benton. Later he lived 

I for a time at No. 318. 

; The accounts of the family opposition which led to this elope- 

' ment are widely contradictory. In his own published memoirs General 
! Fremont states that his relations with Mr. Benton were most cordial, 
j and that the opposition came mainly from Mrs. Benton, who, while 
! always gracious to him, objected first on the ground of the youth 
1 of her daughter, who was only sixteen; and secondly because she 

I I dreaded the hardships of an army officer's wife, having delayed her 
, own marriage for seven years, until Mr. Benton resigned from service. 



134 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

This house was in 1866 purchased by members of the 
First Presbyterian Church as a parsonage for Dr. Byron 
Sunderland (1819-1902), under whose guidance, during the 
years that it was attended by President Cleveland, that church 
attained its highest eminence. 

Nos. 332-334, now partly modernized and thrown together 
as a printing establishment .(the eastern doorway is evidently 
unchanged), both have interesting associations. The former 
was for thirty years the home of the Rev. William McLain, 
one of the early pasters of the First Presb3'terian Church 
(1837-40) who died here in 1873. The other was for many 
years the home of Sen. Thomas H. Benton. 

On Feb. 27th, 1855, the house was totally destroyed by fire. Benton 
lost all the manuscript and notes of the nearly completed second 
volume of his Thirty Years Viezvs, all of which had to be replaced 
from memory. A new house was promptly erected on the same site, 
and here he wrote his Examination of the Dred Scott Case, in which 
he severely criticised Judge Taney; also his Debates in Congress, the 
concluding pages of which were dictated on his death-bed. When 
they were concluded he sent for a few old friends to bid them fare- 
well. Among those who obeyed the summons was President Buchanan. 

Diagonally opposite, on the N. E. cor. of John Marshall 
Place, is a quaint old house with a spacious front yard, 
dating from very early in the 19th century, and built by a 
sea-faring man, a certain Mr. Caldwell of Philadelphia. 
John Quincy Adams is said to have once lived here. 

During 1830-57 it was the home of Gottlieb C. Grammar, president 
for 35 years of the Franklin Fire Insurance Co., and of the Patriotic 
Bank, and vestryman of St. John's and later of Trinity Church. 

Diagonally opposite on the S. W. cor. of C St., stands 
the Metropolitan il/. E. Church, a dignified structure of 
brownstone in the early English Gothic order of architecture, 
erected 1854-69, at a cost of $225,000 (not including tower and 
steeple). 

History. The ground occupied by the Metropolitan Church was 
donated in 1854 by the Wesley M. E. Chapel, for the erection of a 
National Methodist Episcopal Church. The plan was approved at a 
meeting of the General Conference and the corner-stone was laid 
that same year; but for want of funds the edifice was not completed 
until March ist, 1869. 

As in many of the older Washington churches, the ground 
floor is occupied by the Church parlor and Sunday School 
rooms. Double stairways lead up from the vestibule to the 
main auditorium on the floor above. Two Presidents, Grant 
and McKinley, and two Vice-Presidents, Logan and Fair- 
banks, attended service here. The Presidential pew is No. 67, 
on the L. of the W. aisle. Behind it. No. 65, is the Logan 
pew. 



THE OLD RESIDENTIAL SECTION 135 

The pulpit and pulpit-rail are of olive-wood made from 
logs brought from Mt. Lebanon and the Mount of Olives. 
In the arch behind the pulpit, is a small black keystone in- 
scribed with Hebraic characters and consisting of a fragment 
from Solomon's Temple. To the R. of pulpit in the S. W. 
cor., are several memorial tablets: i. To Vice-President 
John- A. Logan ; 2. To the Rev. John P. Newman, D.D., 
Bishop of the Methodist Episcopal Church, the third pastor 
of the Metropolitan M. E. Church (1826-99); 3. To Ulysses 
S. Grant (tablet erected by his friend George W. Childs). 
To the L. is a marble bust of Bishop Newman. 

Bishop Newman was raised to the Bishopric in his third pastoral 
term in this church; and instead of resigning he followed the unusual 
procedure of remaining pastor tmtil the end of his term. 

In the rear of the church are several memorials including: 
I. To Matthew G. Emery (1818-1901) the last Mayor of 
Washington, and President for 32 years of the Trustees of 
the church ; 2. To President McKinley. 

The cost of erection of this church was met by contribu- 
tions from various Church Conferences throughout the 
country. The names of the Conferences which contributed 
are inscribed upon the name plates of the rear pews. The 
church has a chime of 16 bells. 

At 456 C St., adjoining the church, John A. Dix lived 
while Secretary of the Treasury (1860-61.) No. 458 was the 
residence of Edwin M. Stanton, while practicing law and 
also while Attorney General under Buchanan. He was still 
living here when he defended Daniel Sickles, on trial for the 
murder of Philip Barton Key (p. 188), but moved to H St. 
just W. of 14th when he became Secretary of War. 

Diagonally opposite, W. of the Harper Office Building, 

a modern business house occupies the site of an historic old 

hotel. In 1826 it was known as Davis' Hotel. Later it became 

a boardirig house kept by Miss Ann Hamilton and patronized 

by members of Congress. During the decade 1840-50 many 

confidential consultations were held there regarding slavery 

and the work of preparation for the advent of the Republican 

party. On the eastern lot there was formerly a spring, 

known as the City Spring, and the city Corporation laid 

! wooden pipes for carrying the water to running pumps on 

! 6th and 7th Sts., S. of Pennsylvania Ave. When William 

i Woodward, in 1802, erected his Centre Tavern on the site 

I now covered by the eastern part of the Metropolitan Hotel 

i (p. 4), he also purchased the lot with the spring on C St.; 

I and subsequently both the Metropolitan and National Hotels 

I depended on this spring for their water supply. It was on 



136 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

this same lot that Washington's first Public Baths were 
opened, in 1813. 

Further west, at the N. W. cor. of 6th and C Sts., formerly 
stood the old Criitchct House, where Alexander Stephens, 
Charles Summer, General Scott and Abraham Lincoln used 
to dine. 

On the W. side of John Marshall Place, midway between 
C and D Sts., stands the First Presbyterian Church, a sub- 
stantial brick structure, the corner-stone of which was laid 
April loth, 1827. Among the distinguished attendants have 
been Presidents Jackson, Polk, Pierce and Cleveland ; Vice- 
President Colfax and General Grant. The Rev. T. DeWitt 
Talmage, the famous Brooklyn preacher, wi.s once pastor of 
this church. 

History. The First Presbyterian church was organized in 1789, 
and on June 24th its first pastor, the Rev. John Brackenridge was in- 
stalled. The congregation worshipped first in the carpenter's shop 
of the White House, and later in the Supreme Court, in the basement 
of the Capitol. The history of the early years is somewhat obscure. 
Owing to poor health the pastor was absent much of the time, and the 
congregation gradually dwindled away. It is believed that for a time 
they had a house of worship in the square bounded by F and G, loth 
and iith Sts. Christian Hines in his quaint "Recollections," dating 
from boyhood, speaks of the "old one-story, round-top, frame meeting- 
house, where (it is said) Rev. Mr. Brackenridge used to preach." 
It is a curious fact that when, in 181 1, the church was revived this 
same Mr. Brackenridge was for a second time called and orHained 
as pastor. In 1812 the "Little White Church under the Hill," near 
Delaware Ave. and B St. S. W., was dedicated. In 1827 the present 
site was secured and the corner-stone of the present structure laid 
April loth. In 1868 this church received the first charter granted by 
Congress to any church in the District of Columbia. 

In the lobby of the church is a portrait bust of the Rev. Byron 
Sunderland, the most distinguished of the church's many pastors, 
who closed his long term of service by resigning in 1899, three years 
before his death. 

Opposite the church is the site of the home of Carlo 
Franzoni, one of the first sculptors of the Capitol, who died 
here 1819. The house, the front of which was elaborately 
carved with busts ;ind bas-reliefs, survived for many years, 
but the sculptures were destroyed in enlarging the entrance 
for business purposes. 

North of the church, on W. side, the house adjoining the 
corner was the residence of Rear Admiral Dahlgren for fif- 
teen years prior to his death in 1870. The corner house is the 
old Masonic Hall, the corner-stone of which was laid in 1826. 
It was occupied by the City Post Office for a year after the 
Blodgett Building was burned in 1836 (p. 142). During 1849- 
70 it was the home of Joseph H. Bradley, a prominent lawyer 
of the District. 



THE OLD RESIDENTIAL SECTION 137 

John Marsh-all Place, formerly 4>4 St., terminates at 
Judiciary Square, a rectangular plot comprising about 14 acres, 
bounded by 4th and 5th, D and G Sts. Its S. side marks the 
meeting place of two short Avenues : Indiana Avenue, run- 
ning S. E. to 1st St., and Louisiana Avenue, running S. W. 
to the Mall at loth St. Number 458 Louisiana Axe., a few 
doors W. of John Marshall PI., was. for several years prior 
to his death in 1846, the home of James Hoban, architect of 
the White House. 

Further W., midway between 4^ and 6th Sts., is the site 
of the second oldest theater in Washington. It was first 
called the Washington Theater, and later the American The- 
ater. It must have dated from the early 20's for it was 
enlarged and improved in 1828. Two inaugural balls are said 
to have been held in this Hall. 

Diagonally opposite. N. E. cor. of Louisiana Ave. and 
6th St., stands the District Police Court, occupying the site 
of the old First Unitarian Church attended by Presidents 
John Quincy Adams and Millard Fillmore. When, in 1878, 
the congregation moved to their second .church on 14th St. 
(p. 232) the old edifice was taken over and occupied by the 
Police Court, until it became too small for the latter's needs, 
and the present building was erected. This necessitated the 
demolition of several dwellings, to the E. on the Ave., includ- 
ing the house in which Daniek Webster spent his last years. 

On the S. side of the Square, facing John Marshall Place, 
stands the third oldest of the Government buildings, the 
venerable City Hall (PI. Ill — E4 — No. 23), known in recent 
years as the District Court House. It is the one important work 
designed wholly by George Hadfield, the young English archi- 
tect so enthusiastically recommended by Benjamin West at the 
time when Hallett was discharged from his position as super- 
vising architect of the Capitol. Owing to its severe simplicity, 
the tendency was formerly to underrate the really artistic pro- 
portions of City Hall. But critical judgment now recognizes 
the rare talent that infused so much classic spirit into mere 
brick and plaster. 

The central section, with its Ionic portico, is the oldest 
portion of the structure ; the east wing was finished in 1826 
(the year of Hadfield's death) ; the west wing was not com- 
pleted until 1849. The finished structure has a total frontage 
of 250 ft. and consists of a basement and two stories, with 
an elevation of 47 ft. The recessed center has a width of 
150 ft., while the wings have a frontage of 50 ft. each, and a 
depth of 166 ft. 



I3S RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

In iS/i the building- was conveyed to, the Federal Gov- 
ernment, and has since housed, not only the District Courts, 
but also the offices of the U. S. District Attorney, U. S. 
Marshal. Register of \\'ills and Recorder of Deeds. The old 
eastern court-room has been the scene of many historic trials, 
including those of Dr. Gardiner and Richard' H. White for 
burning the Treasury Building; Julian May for killing a man 
in a duel; Daniel E. Sickles for the murder of Philip Barton 
Key (p. i88), and Charles Guiteau for the assassination of 
President Garfield. 

THe building having become through long neglect badly 
out of repair, underwent in 1917 a thorough renovation. This 
necessitated the temporary removal of the District Court to 
the Emery Building, formerly occupied by the Census Bureau, 
at B and 2d Sts. In the course of repairs the S. -facade or 
main front, was somewhat remodeled. 

In front of the Court House stands a marble column, 35 
ft- high, surmounted by a full-length marble statue of Lincoln, 
modeled by Lot Flannery of Washington, said to have been 
a self-taught sculptor, and once a Lieutenant in the U. S. 
Army. The statue was unveiled April 15th. 1868, the third 
anniversary of Lincoln's death. A bill to replace this statue 
with another is now pending in Congress (Mav. 1922). 

The District Court of ^Appeals (PI. Ill— E4— Xo. 100), 
situated immediately X. W. of the old Court House, constitutes 
the first of a prbjected series of Municipal buildings which will 
fiank the two sides of Judiciary Sq. It was erected in 1910 
from plans by Elliott Woods, assisted b}- W. D. Kneessi and 
August Eccard. 

The architectural style is adapted Georgian ; and it is 
interesting to observe how closely and judiciously the archi- 
tect has followed Hadfield's work. The whole structure 
harmonizes with the old City Hall : and the stone work of the 
two basements, especially in the window arches, is practically 
identical. The material of the new building is : for base and 
approaches. Woodstock granite : for upper stories, Bedford 
Blue Indiana limestone. The main entrance is on the N. 
facade. The main staircase, on the left, leads up to an im- 
pressive foyer, from which corridors, to R. and L., give ad- 
mission to the Judges' Retiring rooms. The Appellate Court 
Room is in the center, and is windowless. being lighted 
throug-h the ceiling. When the Court is not in Session the 
attendants in charge will gladly admit visitors to the Court 
Room and the Judges' Retiring Rooms. 

Prior to the erection of the Pension Office, several 
Inaugural Balls were held in Judiciarv- Square, in temporary 



THE OLD RESIDENTIAL SECTION 139 

structures built for the occasion : namely, that of William 
Henry Harrison, in 1857; the first Inaugural Ball of Lincoln, 
in 1861; and the second of Grant in 1873. At the outbreak 
of the Civil War, the Lincoln ball-room was still standing 
at the corner of 5th and E Sts. ; and was used as an emer- 
gency hospital for the first wounded soldiers. 

The Pension Office (PI. Ill— E4). erected in 1883, stands 
in th^ upper portion of the Square, above the line of F St. It is 
a huge, ungainh- structure of red brick, notable chiefly for its 
multitude of windows. It is said to have been adapted from the 
Famese Palace at Rome. {General M. C. Meiggs, U. S. A., 
architect. See marble memorial tablet on wall of South 
entr\-.) 

Open to the public weekdays, from 9 a. m. to 2 p. m. 
There is, however, nothing to interest the tourist excepting 
the big central hall. 

The Per.sion Office contains the ofnces of the Commissioner of 

Pensions, who supervises the examination and adjudication of all claims 

for service in the arm.y or navy rendered wholly prior to Oct. 6, 1917: 

I claims for bounty-land' warrants based upon services rendered prior to 

, March 3, 1S55. and claims under the Act of May 22, 1920, providing 

for the retirement of employes in the classified Civil Service. 

, The building forms a parallellogram 400x200 ft., sur- 

rounding a roofed-in Roman cortile. Surmounting the third 
' stor}- are four gables forming a cross. Height to cornice, 75 
( ft. ; to central ridge of roof, 149 ft. The cost was approxi- 
mately $900,000, and i5,ooo,ooo"brick were required in course 

* of construction. It is completely fire-proof, — a fact which, 
when repeated to General Sheridan, evoked his historic com- 
ment, "^^'hat a pit\-!" 

The one artistic feature of the building is a spirited three- 
foot terra-cctta bas-relief frieze, extending unbroken around 
all four sides, and portraying successiveh- the various branches 
of the Service : the ^larching Infantry-, the Cavalry-, the Boys 
of the NaA*A' rowing ashore, the Army Supply-wagons, and the 
Woimded being assisted to the rear. (Designed b}- C. Buberl ; 
executed by the Boston Terra-cofta Company). 

The three-foot squares comprising- the frieze are cleverly matched. 
' so as to permit of various arrangements and repetitions, thus making 

it possible to bring a different branch of the service over each of the 

four central entrances, which are accordinglv named respectivelv: i. 
, North side. Gate of the Invalids; 2. West 'side. Gate of the Staff; 
I 3. South side, Gate of the Line; 4. East side. Naval Gate. 
I In the pendentives of the doorways are symbolic figures, also in 

terra-cotta: i. (repeated in E. and W. entrances) War, represenied 
, (on R.) by Mars, with chariot and horses: Minerva (on L.\ fully anned 

and accompanied by the Owl of Wisdom: 2. (repeated in N. and S. en- 
, trances) Peace, symbolized by Justice (on R.). with scales: and Truth 

• (on L.), with torch; beside her are the discarded masks of Tragedy and 
' Comedy. 



140 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Interior. The vast inner court, 316x116 ft., and ris'ng 120 
ft. to roof, is surrounded by arcaded galleries resting on two 
tiers of imitation marble columns, 152 in number, the lower 
tier being Doric and the upper Ionic. 

The floor of the court is now occupied with tiers of 
drawers, containing the papers of applicants for pensions. 
The cases on file exceed one million. The work has been 
so thoroughly systematized that the entire record of any 
pension case can be furnished within five minutes after inquiry. 

The Pension Building has been the scene of many in- 
augural balls, at which no less than 18,000 people have been 
entertained. The list includes the inaugural balls of President 
Cleveland, 1885 and 1893 ; Harrison, 1889 ; McKinlev, 1897 and 
1901 ; Roosevelt, 1905 ; Taft, 1909. 

The Pension Bureau Reference Library is of recent origin, 
estaiblished July 18th, 1910, by the authority of the Commis- 
sioner of Pensions. It is a reference library for the use of 
the employees of the Bureau ; but its privileges are extended 
to any one having business with the Bureau. 

The site triginally chosen for the Pension Office was on B St., at 
Louisiana an 1 Ohio Ave.; but this was found to be unsafe, because it 
consisted in part of filled-in ground of what was formerly the Wash- 
ington canal. 

On 5th St., facing the Square, No. 416-18, the Cohimbiaa 
Building occupies the former site of Trinity Episcopal Church, 
upon the removal of which in 1851 to its present site (p. 132), 
the old edifice was taken over by the then newly organized 
Congregational Church. The latter was short-lived, but for 
a brief time in 1854, just after the publication of Uncle Tom's 
Cabin, it was the scene of some stirring revivals and anti- 
slavery demonstrations. 

No. 420, the Law Department of Hoivard University, 
erected 1892, contains a large auditorium, known as the 
W^illiam 11. Evarts Hall. 

This side of the Square is ooccupied by many law offices. 
The N. W. cor. of 5th and E Sts. is occupied jointly by the 
Columbian Title Insurance Co. and the Real Estate Title In- 
surance Cct. Diagonally opposite, on E St. S. E. cor. of 6th 
St., is the large brick structure of the Law School of George- 
town University. The old-fashioned square brick dwelling 
on the opposite N. W. cor. of 6th St., was formerly the home 
of Justice Salmon P. Chase, also of Senator William Sprague. 
who married Kate Chase, daughter of the Chief Justice. 

Continuing N. on 5th St. we pass, at S. E. cor. of F St., 
the unpretentious draib brick structure of Wesley Chapel 
(M. E.), organized in 1823. The original edifice was destroyed 
by fire, and the present chapel erected about 1856, at a cost 



THE MODERN SHOPPING DISTRICT 141 

of $>i6,ooo. Just N. of Judiciary Square, on the E. side 
of 5th St., between G and H Sts., we may see the short, 
heavy spire of the German R. C. Church of St. Mary, the 
only German church of that denomination in the city, and 
consequently without parochial limitations. The interior is 
rich but somber, with many memorial windows representing 
the Saints of the church, grouped in pairs. The principal 
window in the apse represents the Virgin and Child. Near 
the entrance is a memorial tablet to Matthias Alig (1803-82), 
born in Switzerland, the founder and first rector of this 
church. The present structure, early Gothic, of trap-rock, 
dates from 1890. 

Further N., at 6th and G Sts.. stands Adath Israel, the 
oldest Jewish synagogue in the city, founded in the early fifties 
by Mannasses Oppenheimer, from Bavaria, one of the eight 
Jews then in Washington. The present building dates 
from 1873. 

VI. The Modern Shopping District 
a. F Street to the Treasury Building 

F Street was from very early times down to the last 
quarter of the 19th century, a fashionable street, and even 
in the 70's, when President Grant and A. T. Stewart, New 
York's first "Merchant Prince," prophesied that it was des- 
tined to become the fashionable shopping street of the Cap- 
ital, there were few who believed it. Yet to-day from 6th 
St. to the Treasury Building, with the exception of a few 
churches, F St. is wholly given over to business, containing 
many of the leading shops and stores, some of which were 
formerly conspicuous features on Pennsylvania Ave. 

Just S. of F St., at No. 522 6th St., is the Washington 
headquarters of the Women's Christian Temperance Union. 
No. 614 F St. was formerly the home of Thomas U. Walter, 
one of the architects of the Capitol. No. 622 F St., the 
Pacific Building, contains the rooms of the Columbia His- 
torical Society, an institution organized April 4th. 1804 "^ot 
the collection, preservation and diffusion of knowledge re- 
specting the history and topography of the District of 
Columbia." 

The Society possesses a valuable specialized library comprising ap- 
proximately 800 volumes, and 4000 magazines and pamphlets. It is 
primarily intended for members, but any other students are welcome. 
Open every Wednesday, 11 A. M. to 4 P. M., from November to May 
inclusive; at other times by appointment with the Secretary.- 

At the S.E. cor. of 7th and F Sts. is the Shuhcrt-Garrick 
Theatre, one of Washington's high-class playhouses (p. 24). 



142 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

West of 7th St. the north side of F St. is occupied for 
two squares by the Patent Office, and the S. side to 8th St. 
by the General Land Office. 

The United Statees Patent Office (PI. I— Ci), which up 
to 1917 housed the entire Department of the Interior (p, 213), 
occupies two city squares, bounded on N. and S. by F and G 
Sts., and on E. and W. by 7th and 9th Sts. This site was the 
reservation set aside in L'Enfant's plan for a National Church 
and Mausoleum. The building is a three-story rectangle, measur- 
ing 453 ft. E. to W., and 321 ft. N. to S., w'ith an interior quad- 
rangle about 265 X 135 ft. The style is consistently Doric, 
imposing by its severe simplicity. There are four massive 
porticoes. The main one. fronting on F St., opposite the termina- 
tion of 8th St., is reached by a lofty series of steps, and con- 
sists of a double row of fluted Doric columns, sixteen in 
number, six feet in diameter, and thirty-two feet high, 
raised in sections and flanked by immense pilasters. It is 
modeled after the portico of the Pantheon at Rome. 

The ground occupied by the S. W. cor. of this building, at E 
and 8th Sts., is the site of the historic Blodgett's Hotel, so named 
from its projector, Samuel Blodgett of Philadelphia, who planned to 
make it a lottery prize to raise money for building a canal. The 
hotel was begun July 4th, 1793, from plans by Jai}ies Hoban. The 
government gave the freestone for the basement story. About $35,000 
was expended in putting up the frame and roofing-in. The building, 
however, was not completed as the lottery scheme failed. Although 
known by the various names of "Great Hotel," "Lottery Hotel" and 
"Union Pacific Hotel," it was never used as a hotel. In 1800 a 
Philadelphia theatrical man named Wingall opened it as the United 
States Theatre, and presented the first series of theatrical entertain- 
ments ever given in Washington. The opening night was August 226.. 
1800, when Venice Preserved and The Spoiled Child were enacted 
before an audience of about 150. For the next ten years the main 
auditorium was used for various entertainments, meetings and relig- 
ious services; while the rooms of the unfinished upper stories housed 
the families of foreign artisans employed on the Capitol. In 1810 
Blodgett's was purchased by the Government, and from 18 12 to 1836 
was occupied by the City Post Office and part of the time by the Post 
Office Department and Patent Office. When the British captured 
the city, in 1814, one of the officers ordered a gun to be trained upon 
this building. It was saved by Dr. William Thornton, at that time 
in charge of the Patent Office. It is related that Thornton rode up 
and jumped from his horse in front of the gun, demanding: "Are 
you Englishmen or Goths and Vandals? This is the Patent Office, the 
depository of the inventive genius of America, in which the whole 
civilized world is concerned. Would you destroy it? If so, fire away 
and let the shot pass through my body!" 

Owing to the destruction of the Capitol by the British, when 
Congress was next convened, September 19th, 1814, it occupied Blod- 
gett's for a brief period. See memorial tablet on S. facade of present 
building. 

Another historic site is near the middle of the W. side of the 
Patent Office, on 7th St. Here, before the northern extension 
was built, stood two brick buildings occupied by the Government as 



THE MODERN SHOPPING DISTRICT 143 

the city branch of the Post Office. In the upper story or one of 
these houses was established the first office in the world for receiving 
and dispatching messages by magnetic telegraph. The location is marked 
by a bronze memorial tablet. 

The original section of the present building is the south 
wing with a 270 ft. front on F St., and 70 ft. deep. It was 
erected in 1837-42 to house the Patent Office when it was 
still a Bureau of the Department of State. Robert Mills, 
superintending architect; designs by W. P. Elliott. Mate- 
rial, freestone from Government quarries at Aquia Creek, 
Va. In 1849, when the Department oi the Interior was 
created, the first extension, consisting of the east wing, was 
authorized, and was begun by Mills, from designs by Thomas 
U. Walter. Mills was succeeded in 1851 by Edzvard Clark, 
assistant architect of the Capitol, under whom the east wing 
was completed in 1855, the west wing in 1859, the north 
wing in i860 and the north portico in 1868. The new por- 
tions are all of ]\Iaryland marble on the exterior (inclu'ding 
basement), and of New England granite on the quadrangle. 
The building, as originally completed, contained 191 rooms, 
and cost approximately $2,700,000. Here in 1865 the second 
Lincoln Inaugural Ball was held. 

The Patent Office was organized in 1790, when the first patent was 
taken out by one Samuel Hopkins, July 31st, "for making pot or 
pearl ashes"; and the second by Joseph Stacey Sampson, August 6th, 
"for the manufacture of candles." Before the outbreak of the Civil 
War more than 30,000 patents had been issued; and the war so far 
stimulated inventive genius that by 1870 the number had risen to 
40,000. Todaj' the total number is upward of 900,000 patents; and 
the earnings of the Office are said to have been far in excess of the, 
total expenses since its origin, including the cost of buildings. 

The Patent Office possesses an important Scientific 
Library, now approximating 95.000 volumes (including books, 
pamphlets and bound volumes of periodicals). It is strictly 
a reference library, open daily, except Sunday and Holidays, 
from 9 A. Al. to 4 130 P. M. 

The Patent Office Library was practically founded in 1836; but its 
real history dates from 1852, under the direction of W. W. Turner, 
its first regularly appointed Librarian, through whose efforts the 
foreign patent and periodical files were greatly increased, and the 
scope of the Library broadened. In 1869 the Library was able to 
boast that it possessed "a complete set of the reports of the British 
Patent Commissioners — the reports of French Patents are also complete, 
and those of various other countries are being obtained as rapidly as 
possible." The Library is entirely dependent upon Congressional approp- 
riations, which have been gradually increased until at present there 
is an annual allowance of $2,500. 

Prior to the erection of the old National Museum, the 
upper story of the Patent Office, known as the "Model 
Room," contained, in addition to models of patents, a museum 
of miscellaneous exhibits, the nucleus of which was the 



144 RIDER'S WASHINGTOxN 

natural history collection brought home in 1842 by the U. S. 
Naval Exploring Expedition under command of Commodore 
Charles \Vilkes. Here also were formerly exhibited many 
of the nation's most valued historical relics, including per- 
sonal effects of George Washington, and the original Declara- 
tion of Independence (now in the Library of Congress). 
The collection was finally transferred to the National 
Museum (p. 260). 

South of the Patent Office, occupying the block bounded 
on E. and W. by 7th and 8th Sts., and on N. and S. bv t and 
E Sts., is the Old General Land Office Building (PI. I— 
C2) originally erected for the General and City Post Office. 

History. The southern or E St. portion was commenced 
in 1839, and finished by Robert' Mills, architect. Material : 
marble from New York quarries. In 1842 Congress pur- 
chased the north half of the square bounded by E St., and 
in 1855 the extension on that space was completed. T. U. 
Walter, architect ; Capt. M. C. Meiggs, U. S. Engineers, super- 
intendent. Material : Alaryland marble. 

The completed building is Roman Corinthian in style. It 
measures 204 x 300 ft., and consists of two stories resting on 
a rustic basement. The interior courtyard measures 95 x 194 
ft. The outer facing of the whole building is white marble, 
that of the court is granite. The columns and pilasters, laid 
in sections, extend through three stories, supporting the 
architrave, frieze and cornice. On the 8th St. front is a 
carriage-w^ay entrance, formerly intended for the reception 
and delivery of mail. The carving on the keystone of the 
entrance arch represents Fidelity. The bas-reliefs on the 
spandrils, winged female figures bearing (N. side) a thunder- 
bolt, (S. side) a locomotive, symbolize respectively Electricity 
and Steam. Estimated cost of the entire building, $1,700,000. 

The General Land Office removed in 1917 to the new Interior 
Dei>artment Building (p. 213). During the World War Gen. Enoch 
Crowther, head of the National Selective Draft Board, occupied the 
old building; and here, after his return from France General Pershing 
had his headquarters. It is now (1922) occupied by several minor 
Government bureaus including the Federal Farm Loan Bureau: the 
U. S Tariff Commission; the Panama Canal: and the International Joint 
Commission (with jurisdiction ovei- the boundaries between the United 
States and Canada). 

At S. W. cor. of F and 8th Sts.. was formerly the home 
of George Hadfield, an architect of the Capitol. 

The intersection of 9th and F . Sts., at S.W. cor. of the Patent 
Office, is the busiest transfer point in Washington of the city's trolley 
lines. More than half the lines intersect at this point. 

The N. E. and S. E. corners of 9th and F Sts. are to- 
day occupied respectively by the old Masonic Temple, and 



THE MODERN SHOPPING DISTRICT 145 

the nine-story building of the WashingiC'n Loan and Trust 

Co., organized 1889. 

On these two corners there still stood as late as 1859 two hotels: 
I. the Model House, on the site of the Masonic Temple; and 2. the 
Herndon House, later called the St. Cloud Hotel, a more pretentious 
hostelry of substantial brick. W. of the Model House in those days 
was an open sewer, and beyond the sewer stood the buildings and 
grounds of old Gonzaga College (p. 362); and on a grade, some distance 
above the street, stood old St. Patrick's church and graveyard. 

South on loth St., immediately adjoining the new Metro- 
politan Theatre, is the historic structure, once *Ford's The- 
atre (PI. I — ^B2), in which Abraham Lincoln was assassinated 
on the night of April 14, 1865, while attending a performiance 
of "Our American Cousin." John Wilkes Booth, an actor, 
who knew the theatre well, entered the box, shot the President 
through the head, then leaped to the stage and escaped. He 
was overtaken, however, while hiding in a barn near Freder- 
icksburg, Va., and fatally wounded while resisting arrest. 

This building, now closed to the public, occupies the site of one of 
the several edifices of the First Baptist Church. When that organization, 
in 1862, moved into a new building, its former premises were taken 
over by one James R. Ford (d. January 12th, 1917) and opened on 
March 19th of that year with "The French Spy," by Lucille Western. 
The subsequent performances included engagements by: Maggie 
Mitchell. Edwin Forrest, John McCollough and Laura Keene. 

Opposite Ford's Theatre is the *House where Lincoln 
died, No. 516 loth St. It contains at present the Oldroyd 
Lincoln Memorial Museum. 

History. Into this house, the home of one William Petersen, the 
wounded President was carried from the theatre a few minutes after 
10 o'clock, into the room at the rear end of the entrance hallway. 
Throughout the night he lay in this room surrounded by his wife and 
son Robert, his private Secretary, John Hay, Secretaries Stanton. 
Vyelles and Usher, Atty. -General Speed, Senator Sumner, Dr. Gurley, 
his pastor, and five physicians. The President remained unconscious 
to the end. ^^ At 7 A. M. a bulletin^ was issued: "Symptoms of immediate 
dissolution." and twenty-two minutes later Lincoln died. Secretary 
Stanton broke the solemn silence with the historic words, "Now he be- 
longs to the Ages." It was in an adjoining room that Stanton, during 
the night-long suspense, spent hours dictating orders and preparing an 
official account which is recognized today as the best condensed history 
of the assassination. 

The Oldroyd Collection, which is at present housed here, 
is the result of a patient collection through fortv years, by 
Mr. Osborn H. Oldroyd, of miscellaneous L.incolniana, com- 
prising 3000 exhibits, and consequently of widely varied de- 
grees of interest and authenticity. For ten ve'ars the col- 
lection was housed in the old Lincoln homestead in Spring- 
field, 111. In the early 8o's (so the visitor is told) friction 
between Mr. Oldroyd and Mr. Robert Lincoln resulted in 
the former's summary dispossession, and the removal of the 
collection to Washington. One or two Congres.<;men so far 



146 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

interested themselves that the building was purchased by the 
Government. The collection itself, however, is still owned 
by the Oldroyd family, who occupy the upper stories. 

jMuseum open every day and evening, "at all hours." 
Admission 30 cents. 

The exhibits occupy the four rooms on the ground fioor, and in- 
clude in addition to the more important relics, which merit special 
mention: A. over 300 newspapers containing Lincoln's speeches and 
war papers, and notices of his death and burial: B. 255 funeral ser- 
mons, addresses and eulogies; C. 253 portraits, including photographs, 
steel engravings, lithographs, etc.; D. 66 pieces of sheet music published 
at the time of his death; E. more than a hundred caricatures of Lin- 
coln's presidential campaigns and administrations. 

•In the front parlor, between the windows, is shown what purports 
to be Lincoln's last signature. In this room also is the Family Bible, 
100 years old, from which his mother read to him in childhood. It is 
claimed that the autograph on the cover was written by Lincoln when 
only nine years old. 

Between the front and back parlors is a black locust rail, accom- 
panied by an affida\at attested to by Gov. Oglesby, declaring it to be 
an original rail split by Lincoln in 1830. 

The back parlor is interesting mainly for its pictures 
and other mementoes of the pursuit, capture, trial and execu- 
tion of the Lincoln conspirators. These exhibits include : a 
Ford's Theatre hand-bill of The American Cousin, dated 
April 14th, 1865 ; a reward bill offering $100,000 for the cap- 
ture of Booth, Harold and Surratt; and 37 portraits of 
Wilkes Booth. 

On the S. wall is a series of pictures showing the route followed 
by Booth in his flight, the houses at which he successively stopped, and 
the burning bam in which he was shot by Boston Corbett. There are 
also four photographs of the execution "of four of the conspirators, 
showing: i. The condemned prisoners on the platform of the gallows 
with their spiritual advisors; 2. The condemned with ropes adjusted; 
3. The springing of the trap; 4. The bodies still hanging after they 
have been pronounced dead. 

The N. door opens into the small hall-room (11x22 ft.) 
in which Lincoln died. The death-bed stood in the N. E. 
cor., behind the hall door. The walls are hung with framed 
prints and engravings representing the group around the 
dying President. Note especially the *Woodcut from Frank 
Leslie's Weekly. 

It is claimed that the wallpaper has not been changed since Lin- 
coln's death; but the pattern differs from that shown in the early pic- 
tures; and this, coupled with the fact that the building was for maiiv 
years a rooming-house, makes this claim doubtful. 

The door at W. end of hall-room opens into a fourth and much 
larger room, containing: A. Furniture from the Lincoln Homestead, 
Springfield, 111. (13 pieces), including the cradle in which the Lincoln 
children were rocked; also the last cook stove used by Mrs. Lincoln in 
the homestvrad, and the office chair from Lincoln's law office in Spring- 
field (said to be the chair in which he sat while drafting his first 
inaugural address); B. A library of upward of 1000 volumes "of I incoln 
biographies and histories of slavery and the Civil War; C. Portraits 



THE MODERN SHOPPING DISTRlICT 147 

and busts of Lincoln, including: i. Portrait from life, by F. B. Car- 
penter (purporting to have been taken approximately at the time of 
the Gettysburg Address, November 19th, 1864); 2. Bust from life, by 
Thomas Jones, 1860-61; 3. Plaster bust, by Leonard W. Folk, Chicago, 
i860. 

In the adjoining house, No. 518 loth St., the Spanish War 
Veterans' Association was established Alay i/th, 1899. 

North of F St., on E. side of loth St., stands St. Pat- 
rick's Church (R. C.) (PI. I— Bi), a Norman Gothic struc- 
ture built mainly of trap rock, architecturally one of the most 
impressive church edifices in the city. 

History. On April loth, 1794, Father Anthony Caffery purchased 
lots No. 5 "and 6 in the original plot bounded by 9th and loth, F and G 
Sts., for which he paid £80 sterling. These lots were deeded to Bishop 
Carroll in 1804. Later the church obtained, by purchase or gift, addi- 
tional lots from No. 7 to 15 inclusive. 

Father Caffery was succeeded by Father William Matthews, the 
first native born American to be raised to the priesthood in the United 
States, and remembered as the "Parochial Patriot of Washington City." 
He was the parochial priest of the whole city; President of Georgetown 
College during a crucial period of its existence (p. 467). He built 
the first frame church, and later replaced it with a brick one, about 
1808, at the corner of loth and F Sts., known as Old St. Patrick's. 
He also laid the foundation of Gonzaga College (p. 36^), and founded 
in 1 83 1 St. Vincent's Female Orphan Asyhim, (under care of the Sisters 
of Charity) which fof years occupied the site of the present Woodward 
& Lothrop store, and was later removed to the estate of Mrs. Kate 
Chase Sprague, near Eckington (PL III — C5). 

Father Matthews remained- pastor of St. Patrick's for nearly half a 
century (1802-54), and numbered among his parishioners Chief Justice 
Roger B. Taney, Major L'Enfant, James Hoban, architect of the White 
House, and Robert Brent, first Mayor of Washington. 

This first brick church remained until the early seventies, when 
under the zealous administration of the Rev. Jacob Ambrose Walters 
(rector 1854-94) plans were made for a new stone church, the present 
site was chosen, and the corner-stone laid November 3d, 1872. Father 
Walters was followed by the Rev. John Lloyd, during whose rectorship 
the churcih was decorated. The fine line of parochial buildings occupy- 
ing most of the block on G St. were added during the administration 
of the Rev. Dennis J. Spofford (1901-08). 

Originally the parish of St. Patrick's included the entire city. The 
first subdivision was into eight parishes, namely: i. St. Patrick's; 2. 
St. Peter's (p. 411); 3. St. Matthew's Op. 234); 4. St. Mary's 
(German) (p. 141); 5. St. Aloysius' (p. 362); 6. St. Stephen's; 
7. Immaculate Conception; 8, St. Joseph's (p. 365). 

The site of St. Patrick's was originally a part of the Tommy Burnes 
farm; and directly where the church now stands there was, until as 
late as 1810, a highly prized spring of water, known first as the 
Burnes spring, and later as St. Patrick's spring. Here on summer 
evenings the Burnes family used to gather under the great oaks and 
amuse themselves playing games and swinging from the branches. 

The church is open daily until after sunset. Note the 
interesting Norman French gargoyles and the variegated 
marble columns of the central portal. The interior is dig- 
nified but not ornate. There are a number of fine windows 
(mostly memorials), by Meyer and Bros., of Munich. The 
subjects are as follows: 



148 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Transept and nave: Twelve scenes from the life of 
Christ. Nori'h transept (E. to W.) ^ i- The Annunciation; 
2. Mary's Visit to Elizabeth; Nave, N. side: 3. Adoration of 
the Magi; 4. Presentation in the Temple; 5. Christ in 
Joseph's Carpenter Shop ; 6. Christ in the Temple ; Nave, 
S. side (W. to E.) : 7. Marriage at Cana; 8. "Suffer Little 
Children to Come Unto Me" (Mark x, 14) ; 9. The Lajt 
Supper; 10. "If it be possible let this cup pass from me" 
(Matthew xxvi, 39) ; South Transept: 11. The Resurrec- 
tion ; 12. The Sermon on the Mount. 

The seven windows in the Apse contain scenes from the 
life of St. Patrick, beginning with the Annunciation by Angels 
of his Mission; and closing with the scene of the Saint's 
death. 

Note especially the altar in Norman Gothic style, harmonizing with 
the architecture of the church, and constructed of American statuary 
marble and, Mexican onyx, inlaid with panels of Carrara marble carved 
in Florence. The largest of these panels represents the Last Supper. 

At the N. W. cor. of the church, on L. of entrance, is a 
recently remodeled Baptistry containing a Pieta {Edward 
Berge, Baltimore, sculptor). On the walls of the baptistr> 
is a series of mural paintings by Gabrielle Clements (also 
of Baltimore) : immediately behind the Pieta are depicted 
the Cross and Instruments of Crucifixion ; on R. are Joseph 
of Aramathea and Nicodemus; on L. are St. John and Mary 
Magdalene. 

IVoodzvard & Lothrop, the leading department store of 
Washington, stands on the N. side of F St., partly on the 
former site of St. Vincent's Orphanage, and occupies almost 
the entire square included between loth and nth and G Sts. 

The N. E. cor. of F and 13th Sts. is the site of the first 
United States Branch Bank, established in 1801. North on 
13th St., No. 613, is the Na'Amial Metropolitan Bank, organ- 
ized January 13th, 1914. 

West on F St., No. 1331, is the site of the former home 
of Henry R. Schoolcraft, the Ethnologist. Here also, at an 
earlier date, lived William Thornton, first architect of the Capitol. 

The Adams Building, Nos. 1333-35, immediately adjoining 
on the W., takes its name from the historic mansion which 
formerly stood on this site, occupied by John Quincy Adams 
while Secretary of State. 

The Adams hou.se was a three-story structure of red brick, and was 
originally occupied by James Madison, who continued to reside there 
until he became President. Subsequently it was taken over by Madison's 
brother-in-law, Richard Cutts, who lived there until he moved into his 
new residence on H St. and Lafayette Sq., now the Cosmos Club (p 
188). Adams occuiiied it during 1821-25. 



THE MODERN SHOPPING DISTRICT 149 

Diagonally opposite, at Nos. 1336-38, is the site of a 
house occupied by Aaron Burr. 

At the S. E. cor. of F and 14th Sts., stands the New 
Ebbitt House, occupying in part the site and perpetuating the 
name of the historic old Ebbkt House, first established as a 
hotel in 1865. 

The history of the older Ebbitt House goes back much farther thaw 
this. The building consisted of four houses, the oldest of which was 
the one adjoining the corner, built about 1800, by one David Craufurd, 
who acquired the property in 1798. The corner house was erected in 
1836 by one Bushrod Washington Reed, a grocer, who for many years 
occupied the first Hoor. Prior to 1856 these buildings were known as 
The Frenchman's Hotel. In 1856 the hotel was bought by William E. 
Efbbitt, and was run as a boarding-house by Mr. and Mrs. Ebbitt, after 
whom the present hotel is still called. 

The old Ebbitt House was the home of President William McKinley 
when a member of Congress; and als.ii of the famous journalist, Ben 
Perley Poore, who died here after a residence of more than twenty 
years. The basement story was for many years occupied by newspaper- 
men, and -known as "Newspaper Row." 

Opposite, at S. W. cor. of 14th St.. now occupied by the 
northern proportion of the Neiv JVillayd (p. 3). former- 
ly stood IVillard's Hall, a popular place of entertainment. 
Here was given the first regular course of lectures ever 
offered in Washington, the list of lecturers including; 
George Vanderhoff, E. P. Whipple, and Phineas T. Barnum, 
the famous Showman. 

At 1424 F St. is Lowdermilk's Old Book Store, "veritable temple 
of Americana, venerable and dear to generations of literary browsers" 
{Paul Wilstach). It is believed to occupy approximately the site of 
the home of Secretary McLane when, in 1832, Washington Irving, 
recently returned from Spain, made it his headquarters during a 
three-months' visit to the Capital. 

The S. E. cor. of F and 15th Sts., facing the Treasury 
Building, is occupied by the northern fa(:ade of the newly 
erected Washington Hotel (p. ). 

b. The Section Immediately North of F Street 

Starting from 9th St., the eastern end of the section included 
between G and I Sts., is of comparatively little interest. Further west, 
however, it already bids fair to rival F St. in the quality of its shops. 

No. 713 9th St., between G and H Sts., marks the site 
of a former home of Alexander R. Shepherd, Governor of 
the District of Columbia, 1873-74 (p. ). 

On the S. side of H St., between 9th and loth Sts., is 
the Laboratory Building of the Medical Department of 
Georgetown University. The building occupies the site of 
the original church edifice of the P. E. Church of the Ascen- 
sion, built through the generosity of John P. Van Ness. The 
Van Ness mausoleum, now in Oak Hill Cemetery (p. 437), 
formerly stood in the old churchyard. 



150 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

One block S. on G St., cor. of loth St., is the site of 
Carroll Hall, where Charles Dickens gave his readings. Two 
blocks W., on the N. side of G St., No. 1205 marks the former 
home of William Douglas O'Connor, author of Harrington 
and The Good Gray Poet. North on 12th St., at No. 812, the 
house is still standing in which George S. Boutwell, Secre- 
tary of the Treasury, and John A. Logan, while Senator 
from Illinois, resided.* 

In 1828 Count Charles J. Denmon, the French Minister, invested 
in this square, first acquiring the five lots extending on H St. from 
13th to the center of the square. Subsequently he acquired nearly 
half the square. On lots 3, 4 and 5 were erected three brick resi- 
dences, of which the central one became the official home of the 
French Legation. After 1835 these houses were owned by Commodores 
W. B. Kenvon, Granville S. Cooper and S. S. Gouverneur, and Surgeon 
H. S. Haskell, all of the U. S. N. 

One block S., at the N.E. cor. of G St., is the Colorado 
Building, occupying the original site of the Foundry (M. E.) 
church. 

The P. E. Church of the Epiphany (organized 1842). on 
the N. side of G St., midway between 13th and 14th Sts.. 
is externally an unpretentious Gothic structure, the oldest por- 
tion of which dates from 1844. The structure was enlarged 
in 1857, remodeled in 1874 and again altered in 1890; the 
latter time under the supervision of Edzvard J. Neville-Stent. 
It is now (1922) undergoing extensive repairs. During 
the Civil War this church served for six months as 
a hospital for the wounded. It has numbered among its 
parishioners Jefferson Davis. Edwin M. Stanton, Chief Jus- 
tice Waite. ex-Secretary John Sherman, Lord Ashburton, 
Lord Napier, Sir Edward Thornton, Justice Field and Sec- 
retary Bayard. By an interesting coincidence the Jefferson 
Davis' pew was the one later occupied by Mr. Stanton, then 
Secretary of War. 

The church is open daily and merits a visit. Note espe- 
cially, at N. W. cor., a semi-circular alcove serving as the 
Baptistry, wainscoted with pink Numidian marble. The font 
rests upon a pavement of Roman mosaic quaintly depicting 
a pool with conventionalized fishes. The three bays contain a 
pictorial frieze, by Hemming of London, m three divisions : 
I. The Infant Jesus in Simeon's Arms; 2. His Baptism in 
the Jordan ; 3. Jesus Blessing little Children. 

Only a few memorial windows are yet in place. The 
most notable is the Epiphany Window in the chancel, by 
Henry Holliday of London, the theme of which is the two- 
fold idea. Qirist manifested at once to the Jewish Shepherds 
and to the Wise Men from the Gentile world. 



THE MODERN SHOPPING DISTRICT 151 

The three memorial windows in the nave are : i. The 
Geisy Window, showing the Savior on the Mount teaching 
His Disciples ; 2. The Fisher Window, in two panels : a. The 
Lord as the Good Shepherd; b. The Lord as the Light of 
the World; 3. (from the Tiifany Studios), a richly colored 
window in two panels, showing the Sea of Galilee and the 
Garden of Gethsemene. 

c. The Section Between F Street and Pennsylvania Avenue 

The triangular district having Judiciary Square for its 
base, and F St. and Pennsylvania Ave. for its two longer 
sides, is still a sort of back-water, in which the currents of 
retail business have made feeble headway. Seventh St., to 
be sure, is fairly well Ijned with small shops of the cheaper 
sort; and 9th St. is given over mainly to moving-picture 
houses, foreign restaurants, dairy lunches, shooting galleries, 
and various catch-penny devices. But the rest of the district 
is sordid and shabby, and interesting chiefly for associations 

jhalf a century old. 

I South on E. side of 6th St., near the Police (p. 137), 

(which occupies the former site of the Unitarian church, was 
the home of Charles Bulfinch, one of the early architects of 

Ithe Capitol. 

I On the S. side of E St., of 6th St., is the present 

|Washington home of the Knights of Columbus. The build- 
ing which they occupy was formerly a Baptist church, and 
was used during the Civil War as a military hospital. Just 
beyond, No. 618, is the house in which John C. Calhoun 
resided while Secretary of War and Vice-President (1817-29). 
On E. side of 7th St.. midway between D and E Sts., 
stands the District Odd Fellozvs Hall. The old building, 
long a local landmark, was demolished in May, 1917. The 
new hall is of Indiana limestone, with a frontage of yy ft. 

,'J(JV. S. Plager, architect). 

j Directly opposite, No. 427 7th St. occupies the former 
site of the office of the National Era, in which Uncle Toms 
^Cabin was originally published during 1851-52. 

j Adjoining the S.E. cor. of 7th and D Sts. formerly 
stood a row of five houses known as Blagden's Rozv, erected 

ip 1852 by one Thomas Blagden. Three of these houses 
were occupied respectively by Senator Robert Toombs, of 
Deorgia, Chief Justice Taney and Marston of Pennsylvania. 
Diagonally opposite, on N.W. cor. was the office of the 
National Intelligencer. 

,. The N.E. cor. of 8th and D Sts. is the site of the old 

if^ranklin Inn, a popular hostelry in the early 30's, kept by 



152 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

one James Kennedy. At the S.W. cor. of gth and E Sts. is 
the site of a still older hotel, the Centre House Inn, opened 
in 1804. One square N. on gth St.. at N.W. cor. of E St., 
is the site of the residence of Joseph Gales, Jr. (about 1822- 
30), one of the editors of the National Intelligencer. 
Diagonally opposite, at No. 918 E St., was one of the many 
Congressional "messes." where James Buchanan resided b*e- 
fore he became president. 



WASHINGTON NORTHWEST— 
THE RESIDENTIAL SECTION 

(From the Executive Grounds to Rock Creek) 

I. Seventeenth Street South 

a. Seventeenth Street from Pennsylvania Avenue to 
Potomac Park 

The six short blocks on 17th St., betw. Penns3lvania Ave. 
and B St., offer more separate attractions of keen interest to 
visitors than any other equivalent extent of street or avenue 
in Washington ; for they include the Corcoran Art Gallery, 
the National Headquarters of the American Red Cross, the 
National D. A. R. Building and the Pan-American Union. 

On L. the State, War and Navy Building (p. 126), ex- 
tends southward to New York Ave. Opposite, at N. VY. cor. 
of F St., is the Winder Building, erected in 1848 by W. H. 
[Winder, and purchased by the Government in 1854. It has 
■been used in various capacities by the War Department, and 
at present houses the U. S. Bureau of Efficiency. 

i The duties of this Bureau are to establish and maintain the system 
I of efficiency ratings of the Executive Departments, and to investigate 
i the dupliciation of w^ork, and the methods of business in the various 
I branches of the Government service. 

( The opposite cor. of F St. is the site of General Grant's 
headquarters in 1865. West of F St., No. 1724, is the Civil 
\ Service Commission. 

I This Commission, organized March 9, 1883, under an Act "to 

regulate and improve the Civil Service of the United States," consi-ts 
of three Commissioners, of whom not more than two may be adherents 
I of the same political party. Civil Service examinations are held in all 
I the principal cities of the country, through approximately 3000 local 
\\ boards. On July 31, 1921, the number of officers and employees in the 
I j executive Civil Service was 597,482. 

'' At the S. W. cor. of 17th St. and New York Ave. is the 
\ Corcoran Art Gallery (see p. i/i). Opposite, extending- south- 
j ward to B St. is the President's Park, or Executive Grounds. 
'On the ellipse, occupying the centre of these grounds, are four 
'baseball diamonds, used by various amateur leagues in the 
District. Near the upper margin of the ellipse, directly 
opposite the S. curve of the White House grounds is the — 
Millet-Butt Memorial Fountain, It consists of a simple 
shaft rising from a basin and bearing the following inscrip- 
tion: "In memory of Francis Davis Millet (1846-1912) and 
'Archibald Willingham Butt (1865-1912), this monument has 



154 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

been erected by their friends with the sanction of Congress." 
M^illet, the well-known artist and author, was a drummer-boy 
in the Civil War. Captain Butt was aide to Presidents 
Roosevelt and Taft. They both lost their lives on the ill- 
fated White Star liner Titanic, lost April 15th, 1912. The 
sculptured figures on E. and W. sides of the central shaft 
symbolize respectively Art and Chivalry, the latter in allusion 
to Captain Butt's conspicuous part in saving "women and 
children first." The architect of the Memorial was Thomas 
Hastings; sculptor, Daniel Chester French. 

b. The American Red Cross Building 
The National Headquarters of the American Red Cross 

(PI. II— C5). on 17th St., betw. D and E Sts., is a 
classic white marble structure of monumental character, the 
main fagade being broken by Corinthian pilasters rising 
through two stories, and supporting a massive cornice, above 
which rises a third or attic story. At each end, and on the 
main eastern front, supporting the entrance portico, are 
colonnades O'f stateh^ Corinthian columns. Trowbridge & 
Livingston, architects. 

The idea of raising a memorial to the devoted women of the Civil 
War Sanitary Commission (forerunner of the American Red Cross) was 
first conceived by Alajor-General Barlow, whose wife died in 1864 from 
typhus contracted while nursing- the wounded. It was through the 
efforts of Capt. James A. Scrymser, a comrade-in-arms of Major-Gen. 
Barlow, with the energetic co-operation of Miss Mabel T. Boardman, 
that the memorial was finally achieved. It was authorized by Act of 
Congress in Oct., 1913, on condition that it should cost not less than 
$700,000, of which sum $400,000 was to be raised by private contribution. 
The corner-stone was laid in March, 1915, and the dedicatory exercises 
took place in May, 1917- 

Hours. The ibuilding is open to visitors week days from 
9 a. m. to 8 p. m. ; Sundays, 11 a. m. to 4 p. m. 

Upon entering the building the visitor notes above landing 
of main stairway a marble tablet hearing the following 
.inscription : 

A Memorial 

Built by the Government of the United States 

and Patriotic Citizens 

To the Women of the North 

And the Women of the South 

Held in Loving Memory 

By a Now United Country 

That their Labors to Mitigate the Suffering of 

The Sick and Wounded in War may be Forever Perpetuated 

This Building is Dedicated to the Serv-ice of 

The American Red Cross. 

The three windows in the wall above this tablet are 
surmounted by broad ledges containing three symbolic busts : 
Faith, Hope and Charity, executed 'by Hiram Pozvers. On the 



D. A. R. CONTINENTAL HALL 155 

second floor is a ispacious Assembly Room, finished in the 
Colonial style, the interior furnishings being contributed by 
Mrs, Adolphus Busch, of St. Louis. In the N. wall, opposite 
entrance door, is a three-panel memorial window of favrile 
glass, typifying "The Ministry to the Sick and Wounded 
through Sacrifice." Designed by Louis C. Tiffany, after sug- 
gestions by Elihu Root and Miss Mabel Boardman. The cost 
was $10,000, half of which- was paid by the Women's Relief 
Corps of the D. A. R., and the other half by the United 
Daughters of the Confederacy. 

1 Central Panel (joint gift of the two Oirganizations) : A 

I scene from the days of the Crusades, showing an army of 
gallant Knights riding to battle with spears and banners. In 
the foreground is a standard bearer carrying a large white 
flag with the Red Cross emblem. Near him a faithful 
comrade is supporting a wounded warrior who has fallen 
from his horse. 

West Panel (gift of Women of the North) : St. Filomena, 
t famed for her powers of healing, stands surrounded by her 
'handmaids symibolizing Virtues. She is rofced in gray and her 
'.hands rest upon a shield decorated with the Red Cross. Hope 
' follows bearing a banner marked with an anchor, Mercy 
I carrying a flagon of wine, Faith bearing a torch, and Charity 
ia basket oif fruit. 

I East Panel (gift of Women of the South) : The central 
I figure is Una, from Spencer's "Faerie Queen," personification 
lof fortitude, her apron overflowing with roses, emblematic 
of good deeds. Her three attendants bear respectively a 
Cross, a Lamp of Wisdom and a White Banner on which 
gleams a Golden Heart. 

I Opposite the Assembly Hall, in the S. Transcept, hangs 
a painting by Luis Mora, entitled "Thine is the Glory." The 
picture was based upon a composite photograph, by Major 
|j. G. Kitchell, U. iS. A., of several hundred Red Cross workers 
in the World War. 

In the basement is a Museum, established as a memorial 
to the services of the Red Cross workers in the \\'orld War, 
] which was opened in Sept., 1919. It contains a series of 
miniature models, including the famous "Tent City" in Paris ; 
the first Emergency Canteen opened for refugees returning 
to the devastated area of France; a Surgical Dressings' Work- 
room, etc. 

Lc. D. A. R. Memorial Contnnental Hall 
^Memorial Continental Hall (PI. II— C5), the head- 
uarters of the National Society of the Daughfcrs of the 



156 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

American Revolution, is situated at the N. W. cor. of 17th 
and D Sts., midwa}- between the Pan-American Union and 
the American Red Cross Building. It is an imposing structure 
of white Vermont marble, designed on the classic order of 
architecture prevalent in colonial times. Edivard P. Casey, 
architect. 

History. The Society of the Daughters of the American Revolu- 
tion dates from October nth, 1890, when its original eighteen members 
met in Washington to organize it. At the expiration of the first year 
816 persons, constituting the Charter Members, had been admitted. 
On February 20th, 1896, the Society was incorporated by Act of 
Congress, which required that it should file an annual report with the 
Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution, and permitted it to deposit, 
either in that Institution or in the National Museum, its collection of 
historical material. During its first twenty-five years the Society in- 
creased to a membership of more than 114,000, with upward of 
1430 Chapters, exclusive of those in Cuba, Mexico and the Philippines. 

The first practical step toward the erection of the Memorial Con- 
tinental Hall dates from June 4th, 1902, when the building committee 
voted to purchase the present site, formerly occupied by the city resi- 
dence of Captain Thomas Carberry, Mayor of Washington during 
1822-24. In January, 1904, Mr. Casey's plans were accepted, and on 
April 19th of that same year the cornerstone was laid with Masonic 
rites, the gavel used being the historic one used by Washington for 
laying the cornerstone of the Capitol. The work was pushed so 
rapidly that the central portion of the building was sufficiently ad- 
vanced by April, 1905, to allow the fourteenth Continental Congress 
to be held 'there. The whole building was practically completed by the 
spring of 1907, and the greater part of the interior decorations, furni- 
ture and window hangings were in iplaqe by 19 10. In 1914 began the 
purchase of additional ground back of the Hall; and the society now 
owns practically the entire block bounded by 17th, i8th, C and D Sts. 
When war was declared this ground was offered to the Government, 
and was used for the offices of the National Council of Defense. 

On Nov. 12, 1921, the first plenary meeting of the Conference on 
the Limitation of Armament, as well as the closing meeting three 
months later, were held in the Memorial Continental Hall. The flag- 
staff' penholder made of native wood from 28 states and territories, 
with which Secretary Hughes signed the treaty is preserved in the 
society's museum. 

The Hall is a rectangular structure consisting of a 
basement, two stories and an attic. It has corner pavilions 
and two notable porticoes. The larger one, occupying the 
centre of the main, or eastern fagade, rises through the two 
main stories, is supported by sixteen massive drum columns 
on the Ionic order, and surmounted by a pediment. The 
four columns on the N. and S. sides respectively are grouped 
in pairs, leaving a sufificient central space for a driveway. The 
second, or memorial portico, projects from the S. fagade and 
is semi-circular in form. It rests upon a spacious marble 
terrace, to which a stairway ascends. Like the east portico, 
it rises throughout the main superstructure, and is supported 
upon thirteen monolithic, fluted. Ionic columns, which were 
the gift respectively of either the Society Chapters, or the 



D. A. R. CONTINENTAL HALL 157 

Legislatures of the thirteen original states, and stand in the 
order in which these states entered the Union, namely : 
I. Delaware; 2. Pennsylvania; 3. New Jersey; 4. Georgia; 

5. Connecticut; 6. Massachusetts; 7. Maryland; 8. South Car- 
olina; 9. New Hampshire; 10. Virginia; 11. New York; 12. 
North Carolina; 13. Rhode Island. 

At the main entrance are three pairs of memorial bronze 
doors, the central pair being in memory of the Society's 
Founders and Charter Members, presented by Mrs. Francis 
Berger Moran, while the N. and S. doors were respectively 
the gifts of the Society's Connecticut and Massachusetts mem- 
bers. These doors admit the visitor directly into : — 

The Entrance Hall. This is a spacious parallelogram 
whose white marble walls are divided into panels by ten 
pairs of Ionic, fluted pilasters. In the centre of the inlaid 
marble floor is sunken the coat-of-arms of Pennsylvania in 
bronze, the Entrance Hall being the gift of the Chapters of 
that state. The sole furnishings and decorations in this cham- 
ber are two benches and four chairs, upholstered in green 
leather, a fine old hall clock and a number of marl)le busts. 
A few of the latter are on pedestals arranged along the wall, 
and include: i. Martha Washington; 2. Oliver EUsv/orth ; 
3. Thomas Jefferson; 4. Benjamin Franklin; 5. Afrs. Mary 
Hammond Washington, the first "real daughter." Ten other 
busts occupy the circular niches in the panels forming the 
frieze. These, with the organizations presenting them, are as 
follows: I. George Washington (D. A. R., Washington 
State) ; 2. John Hancock (John Hancock Chapter, Mass.) ; 
3. Edward Hand (D. A. R., Kan.) ; 4. Isaac Shelbv (D. A. R., 
Ky.) ; 5. James Edward Oglethorpe (D. A. R., Ga.) ; 

6. John Adams (John Adams Chapter, Mass.) ; 7. Ethan 
Allen (D. A. R., Vt.) ; 8. John Stark (D. A. R., N. H.) ; 
9. George Clinton (N. Y. C. Chapter, N. Y.) ; 10. Nathan 
|Hale (D. A. R., Conn.). 

On the W. side of the Entrance Hall, facing the main 
entrance, are the doorways opening into the Auditorium, 
which rises throughout the height of the building, and is 
ilighted bv a ground-glass ceiling, divided into twenty-five 
panels. The Auditorium contains three large galleries on 
the N., E. and S. sides respectively, and has a seating capac- 
ity of approximately 2000. All the furnishings of the Audi- 
torium, including the platform, boxes and rest-rooms, are the 
several gifts of Chapters and individuals, the complete list 
bf which may be found in the Society's Handbook. (For sale 
m the Entrance Hall, price 25 cents.) Note especially the 
|large tables, one of which is a facsimile of the historic" table 



158 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

on which the Declaration of Independence was signed ; the 
other is of Hawaiian Koa wood, the gift of the Aloha Chap- 
ter, Honolulu. 

On the west wall of the Auditorium, to L. and R. of the 
platform respectively, hang two paintings : i. Martha Wash- 
ington, by EUphalet F. Andrcn's; 2. Washington on Dorches- 
ter Heights, by Darius Cobb. 

It is said that the artist received his inspiration from reading a 
letter written by Washington to Lee, describing the heavy sense of 
responsibility which weighed upon him as he stood on those heights 
at daybreak, watching the havoc wrought upon the British fleet by the 
night's storm. This picture was presented as a memorial to Mary A. 
Livermore in fulfillment of her expressed desire that it should be 
given to the Society. 

Hanging from the cornice of the Auditorium are fort>'- 
eight flags, twelve on each of the four sides, representing the 
several states of the Union and arranged in the order in 
which the states ratified the Constitution, from Delaware, 
1787, to Arizona, 1912, During the week of the annual 
Continental Congress there "is also hung, suspended • from 
the ceiling, the Betsy Ross flag, consisting of a circle of thirteen 
stars on a field of blue (given by the Flag House Chapter, 
Philadelphia, Pa.). 

In the side walls of the Auditorium are ten pairs of slid- 
ing mahogany doors, all of them memorials, those on the N. 
side opening into the Library; and those on the S. side open- 
ing into the Museum. The main doorways, however, to the 
library and museum open respectively from the N. and S. 
corridors, which branch off R. and L. from the Entrance 
Hall. 

The Library began from a nucleus of 125 volumes, and 
was officially recognized as part of the Society's working 
equipment in 1896, when the office of Librarian General was 
created. The collection now numbers upward of 11,000 
titles, and is strong in American history, with special refer- 
ence to local and family histories. A collection of works on 
Georgia, to be known as the Emily Hcndrce Park Memorial, i 
was presented by the Georgia Chapters of the Society, to- | 
gether with a bronze bas-relief portrait of Airs. Park, State j 
Regent of Georgia, 1899-1902, and Vice-President General. 
1904-07. 

The furnishings of the Library, including the steel stacks, were the 
gift of the Mary Washington Chapter, "the first organized and the 
largest in the District of Columbia." Among objects of special interest 
in the Library are: i. Portrait of Mary S. Lockwood, one of the 
founders (author of Historic Homes of W^ashington, and successively 
Historian General, Librarian General and Chaplain General of the 
D. A. R.), painted by Aline E. Solomons, a Washington artist, and 
another former Librarian General; 2. A replica of Houdon's Washing ' 



D. A. R. CONTINENTAL HALL 159 

ton, the gift of Miss E. B. Johnston, a former Historian General; 
3. An arm-chair from the former Dolly Madison House, now the 
Cosmos Club (p. i88) ; 4. Portrait of Thomas McKeau, a Signer of the 
Declaration of Independence, together with an old divan from his home. 

The Museum occupying on the South* side of the Audi- 
torium a position corresponding to that of the Library on the 
North, and opening upon the Memorial Portico, was given by 
the N. Y. C. Chapter, which also gave most of the furnishings, 
including five exhibition cases, and the window draperies of 
lace and old-rose damask. 

Among the exhibits contained in the Museum are: two tapestries, 
the larger of which, "The Conqueror's Return," dates from the i6th 
century, while the other, portraying the "Last Supper," was made in 
1770; a model of the frigate Constitution; a colonial mirror, from near 
Hartford, Connecticut, where it is said to have lain buried for eight 
years at the time of the Revolution; and two quaint rush-bottomed 
chairs, brought to America in the Mayflower. 

The principal Administrative Offices (with the excep- 
tion of the Treasurer's and jRegistrar's offices, which 
are in the rear) are situated on the main front of 
the building, and open respectively on the North and South 
Corridors, The Business Office, the gift of the Missouri 
Chapters, is situated immediately N. of the Entrance Hall. 
On the walls are a portrait of Mrs. John R. Walker, 
first Vice-President General of Missouri ; and a bronze tab- 
let commemorating the famous Pony Express, which origi- 
nated in St. Joseph, and was appropriately presented by the 
St. Joseph Chapter. The Office of the Historian General 
was the gift of the Ohio Chapters, including the wall-cov- 
ering of old-gold damask, and the window and door draperies 
Df royal-blue velvet. The Office of the Registrar General 
was the gift of the Iowa Chapters collectively, while the fur- 
lishings were severally presented by the Rose Standish, Abi- 
a:ail Adams, Council Bluffs and other Chapters. The Office 
of the Treasurer General, given by the Maryland Chapters, 
contains several interesting pictures, including: i. portrait 
bf Samuel Chase, a Signer of the Declaration of Indepen- 
dence; 2. portrait of Mrs. A. L. Knott, founder of the D. A. R. 
\n Maryland; 3 portrait of Thomas Johnson, first Gov- 
ernor of Maryland, by Waldeniar F. Dicterich (b. 1876), 
from Johnson Family Group, by Charles Wilson Pcale. The 
idjoining Treasurer General's Private Office is the gift of 
Tennessee, and contains a portrait of Andrew Jackson, framed 
h hickory; also a painting representing "The Hermitage and 
Tomb of President Jackson." The Office of the Organiz- 
ing Secretary General, inclusive of all furnishings, was 
he gift of the Illinois Chapters. Note especially the quaint 
llJesign of the chairs, with brocaded green hair-cloth seats. 

V 

U 



i6o RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

This room contains a portrait of George Rogers Clark, a 
bronze statuette of Clark, and a candlestand which once be- 
longed to William Penn. The Reception Room was appro- 
priately given by the District of Columbia Chapters. It 
contains a portrait of Miss Mary Desha, a founder of the 
Society, by Aline E. Solomons; a picture of "A Visit of 
Washington to Monticello," and a pen-and-ink drawing of 
"Washington in the Heart of His Country." 

Adjoining the elevator in the South Corridor, is a bronze 
tablet designed by Mrs. Sally James Farnham, of New York, 
and inscribed as follows : 

"This elevator was given in memory of Josiah Bartlett, Signer of 
the Declaration of Independence, and Mary Bartlett, his wife, by one 
of their descendants." 

This tablet also contains a bas-relief reproduction of 
Trumbull's portrait of Josiah Bartlett, and of the latter's 
home in Kingston, N. H. Another bronze tablet in the Cor- 
ridor commemorates the "Heroes of the Independence." 

The South and North Main Staircases are respectively 
the gift of the Chapters of Minnesota, and of the Fort Greene 
Chapter, Brooklyn, N. Y. The latter is a Memorial to Mrs. 
S. V. White, whose tireless efforts on behalf of the Prison- 
ship Martyrs' Monument are commemorated by a tablet bear- 
ing bas-relief presentment of the monument, at the first turn of 
the stairs. 

Second Story. The most important room on this floor is 
the National Board Room, the gift of the Connecticut 
Daughters of the American Revolution and for that reason 
sometimes called the "Connecticut Room." The visitor should 
note especially the spacious mahogany table, around which 
the Board holds its meetings ; the twenty-one carved chairs, 
thirteen of which bear the coats-of-arms of the original thir- 
teen states ; the President General's chair, being a facsimile 
of Washington's chair in Independence Hall, used by him 
during the Constitutional Convention; the blue satin draperies 
bearing the state arms of Connecticut embroidered in. gold ;j 
the rug especially woven abroad with an oak-leaf border designi; 
typical of Connecticut's "Charter Oak"; and lastly the lace 
window curtains, consisting of a star-and-stripe pattern, also 
designed and woven expressly for this room. 

Other rooms on this floor include: i. The President' 
General's Reception Room, the gift of Alabama Chapters, 
and containing, among other objects, a portrait of Mrs. T. 
Morgan Smith, former State Regent of Alabama ; and ai 
carved chair from Belle Mina, residence of Thomas Bibb 
first Governor of that State. 2. Office of the President] 



D. A. R. CONTINENTAL HALL i6i 

General, gift of Indiana Chapters, containing portraits of 
Mrs. Donald McLean, President General, 1905-09, and of 
Mrs. Cornelia Cole Fairbanks, who presided over the cere- 
monies attending the laying of the cornerstone of Memorial 
Continental Hall, and also presided over the first Continental 
Congress held therein. 3. Office of the Recording Secre- 
tary General, gift of New York Chapters. Among the 
relics here preserved are a mahogany folding table on which 
George and Martha Washington took supper (its authenticity 
being vouched for by two framed affidavits) ; also a framed 
original autograph poem by Dolly Madison, dated 1848. 4. 
Office of the Corresponding Secretary General, gift of the 
Texas Chapters. 5. Certificate Room, given by the Massa- 
chusetts Chapters. This room contains numerous relics, 
including a chair from the Josiah Quincy Mansion, a table 
which had been in the Warren family for many generations, 
an antique clock, presented by the Boston Tea Party Chapter, 
and a copy of "America" in the author's handwriting. 6. 
Office of the Assistant Historian General (California 
Chapters). On the walls of this room are several interest- 
ing pictures, including the "Mission of Dolores of St. Francis 
Assisi," by Alice B. Crittenden (b. i860) ; "Springtime at San 
Juan Capistrano Mission"; and three framed groups of pic- 
tures (six in each) of California Missions, especially valu- 
able since several of these Missions have ceased to exist; 
also a marble bas-relief panel, "California, and the National 
Society of the Daughters of the American Revolution," by 
Julia Bracken Wendt. Note also the frieze of California pop- 
pies, designed especially for this room. 8. Committee Room 
(New Jersey Chapters). This room is notable chiefly for its 
unique furniture and woodwork, all of which was made from 
the oaken timbers of the British frigate Augusta, sunk during 
the Battle of Red Bank, N. J., October 23d, 1777, where it 
lay for more than a century in the waters of the Delaware 
River, mellowing to its present varied shades of silver-gray. 
On the walls hang portraits of the five Signers of Declaration 
of Independence for New Jersey: i. Richard Stockton, after 
original by Sully; 2. President Witherspoon, copy of original 
at Princeton University; 3. Abraham Clark; 4. John Hart, 
and 5. Francis Hopkinson, after original in Independence 
Hall, Philadelphia. 

Third Floor. The chief attraction on this floor is the 
Banquet Hall, finished throughout in blue and white, which 
are the National Society's colors. The furniture is of mahog- 
any, upholstered in hair-cloth of a somewhat darker blue. 



i62 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

"Each article, dining-tables, side-tables, side-board, chairs, silver, 
china, and even the smallest article in the fire-place, have been the 
tribute of Chapters and individuals throughout the Society, to this 
Memorial Room." (The contributing Chapters and individuals numl>er 
together 79.) 

The other rooms on this floor include: i. The Commit- 
tee Room, gift of the Maine Chapters. Interesting details: 

a. Pine-cone pattern rug, green and brown, product of a spe- 
cial industry of Cranberry Island, off the coast of Maine; 

b. Mantel, removed from a Washington house formerly occu- 
pied by Henry Clay ; c. Mahogany pedestal and case, includ- 
ing ceiling electric lamp, from Battleship Maine (sunk in 
Havana Harbor), presented by the Navy Department. 2. 
Room of the Children of the American Revolution. This 
memorial room and its furnishings were presented by the 
C. A. R. It contains a portrait by Tarbell, of ]\Irs. Daniel 
Lathrop, founder of the C. A. R. 3. Private Dining Room, 
gift of the Virginia Chapters. It contains portraits of Francis 
Lightfoot Lee, of Dolly Madison and of Chief Justice John 
Marshall; also a framed miniature of Patrick Henry, and an 
etching of Christ Church, Alexandria. The marble coat-of- 
arms of Virginia was a gift from the sculptor, Moses Ezekiel. 
4. The Kentucky Room, containing interesting colonial furni- 
ture from that state. 5. Delaware Room, given to the State 
of Delaware in memory of Mrs. Caroline Peterson Mahon 
Dennison, by her surviving sisters. The furniture was given 
by the State Chapters. There are also on this floor the West 
Virginia Room, the Editorial Office of the D. A. R. 
Magazine, and the apartment of the Superintendent, 

The new Administration Building now in course of 
erection (1922) is placed some 75 ft. W. of the Hall, and has a 
frontage of no ft. and depth of 100 ft. It is a white lime- 
stone structure of dignified design, harmonizing with that of 
the main building, but properly subordinated to it. 

The new building was planned purely as a business office to serve 
the special working needs of the society. The chief feature of the first 
floor is the central rotunda devoted to membership files and card 
catalogues, and surrounded by wide corridors leading to the offices of 
the National Officers and Executive Manager and to the working 
departments of the society. The second floor contains offices and living 
quarters of the President General; an Assembly Room, with seating 
capacity of 150; offices of the D. A. R. Magazine; and a large meeeting 
room for the Children of the American Revolution. 

d. The Pan American Union Building 
The home of the *Pan American Union (PI. II— C5) 
occupies a five-acre block situated on the W. side of 17th 
St., facing the Executive Grounds, and extending from B tj 
to C St., N. W. This site w^as long known as "Van Ness 
Park" (p. 170), and some years ago was acquired by the 



THE PAN AMERICAN UNION 163 

George Washington University (p. 214), whose change of 
plans, however, placed it again upon the market. The pres- 
ent building, begun in 1908 and dedicated April 26th, 1910, 
is a square structure of white, blue-veined Georgia marble, 
measuring about 160 ft. each way. Its architectural order 
is a combination of Renaissance motives in what has aptly 
been termed a Mediterranean blend, combining as it does 
French, Italian and Spanish derivations. The plans chosen 
were the result of an architectural competition in which 75 
designs of high merit were submitted. The successful archi- 
tects were Albert Kelscy and Paul P. Cret, of Philadelphia. 
The total cost of the building and grounds was about $1,100,- 
000, of which $850,000 was given by Andrew Carnegie and 
the balance by the American Republics, including the United 
States. 

This building is open to the public week-days from 9 A. M. 
to 4 P. M,; from the middle of June to the middle of Septem- 
ber, it closes on Saturdays at i P. M. 

- History. The Pan American Union is an organization 
voluntarily maintained by the twenty-one American Repub- 
;!ics, and devoted to the development and conservation of 
commerce, friendly intercourse and good understanding among 
the nations composing it. 

, It was the outcome of the first Pan American Confer- 
ence, held in Washington in 1889-90, and presided over by 
Ifames G. Blaine, then Secretary of State. A resolution was 
then passed by the delegates providing for a "Commercial 
Bureau of the American Republics." At the second Pan 
American Conference, held at Mexico City in 1901, the 
name was changed from "Commercial" to "International 
Bureau." At the third Conference, held at Rio de Janeiro 
in 1906, the scope of the organization was still further 
broadened, and at the fourth Conference, at Buenos Aires 
1910, the preesnt name. Pan American Union, was adopted. 
The Union as now constituted is controlled by a Governing 
Board, composed of the Secretary of State of the United 
States and of the diplomatic representatives at Washington 
of the other American nations, and administered by a Di- 
^•ector General and Assistant Director chosen by the Board. 
Among the Union's many activities may be mentioned: i. A 
large correspondence, averaging many thousand letters per 
tnonth with diplomatic representatives and other officials of 
foreign countries, with manufacturers, importers, exporters, 
tapitalists, investors, etc. ; 2. The publication of a monthly 
bulletin in magazine form, in three separate editions : English, 
Spanish and Portuguese, devoted to current information con- 



THE PAN AMERICAN UNION 165 

•cerning the American Republics; 3. The publication and distri- 
bution of booklets on each of the Latin-American nations; 4. 
: The maintenance of a library, known as the Columbus 
Memorial Library (p. 37), devoted to books relating to the 
American Republics. 

From December 1906 until the new building was com- 
, pleted, the Union occupied an old residence on the cor. of 
' Lafayette Sq. and Pennsylvania Ave. (p. 184). 

The Present Building. The main fagade, approached by 
J broad marble steps, consists of a lofty central portico with 
^sloping roof of corrugated tiles, and divided by four Corin- 
:thian pilasters into three panels occupied by the three stately 
^ entrance arches. Flanking the portico are two simple, massive 
pylons, which give to the fagade something of the effect 
produced by the customary two towers of typical Latin- 
American church architecture. Beyond the pylons, on either 
side, are extensions designed to contain the working offices, 
, library book-stacks and other adjuncts to the main central pur- 
f pose of the Union, and therefore properly subordinated in 
; their relative proportions. 

\ The sculptures of the main fagade symbolize the equal 
share of the northern and southern continents in this Union 
of American Republics. On either side of the entrance steps, 
against the pylons, are two sculptured groups : on R., North 
America, by Giitzon Borglum (1867 — ) ; on L., South Amer- 
» ica, by Isidore Konti (1862 — ). In each of these groups a 
■draped female figure is cherishing a nude boy, just awaken- 
ing to adolescence. Above these groups, on a line with the 
cornice, are two panels in low relief, each expressing an act 
of heroic self-sacrifice : on R., Washington Bidding Farewell 
to his Generals, by Giitzon Borglum; on L., San Martin, hav- 
ing liberated Chili and Peru from the Spanish Yoke, meets 
j Bolivar and relinquishes his Leadership, by Konti. 

j Above the bas-reliefs, respectively, are two symbolic birds, the Eagle 

' of North America and the South American Condor, both by Solon 
1 Borglum (iS68 — ). In the cornice above the portico arches is a panel 
of reddish gray marble inscribed in large Roman letters, "Pan Amer- 
ican Union." At either end of the inscription is a decorative design 
; in relief: i. (on N.), A Caucasian Child; 2. (on S.), An American 
Indian Child, each surrounded by fruits and other symbols of the North 
and the South {Isidore Konti, sculptor). The visitor should also note 
the pilaster caps, also designed by Konti and showing among the Acan- 
thus leaves a female figure, typifying peace, holding olive branches and 
standing upon the western hemisphere. 

The richly wrought bronze grills of the three entrance 
gates deserve detailed examination. They are said to be 
specifically suggested 'by the grills in the Cathedral of Sara- 
gossa, Spain, but with free adaptation through the introduction 
of eagles, condors and various Latin-American motives. 



i66 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

A detailed study of the ornamentation of this building, both 
within and without, well repays the visitor, who will discover on all 
sides motives derived not only from Spanish colonial architecture, but 
also from Aztec and Mayan aboriginal art. For example: the decorations 
of the parapet of the section flanking the pylons are adopted from the 
foundation of the Salto del Agua, Mexico City; while the design of the 
balustrade above the cornice of the pylons is taken from the Cathedral 
of Chihuahua. 

The entrance doors open directly upon the spacious 
Vestibule, running the full width of the central section and 
rising through to the height of two stories to its barrel- 
arched ceiling. Opposite the entrance arches are three cor- 
responding arches looking out upon the Patio, access to 
which is had through the central arch. At the N. and S. ends 
of the Vestibule respectively, are a pair of columns flanked 
by pilasters, all monoliths, of Grand Antique black marble, 
veined with white, with bronze capitals and bases. Beyond 
these columns, at the S. end, is the reception room, at the 
N. end a retiring room for women. 

The chief single artistic feature of the Vestibule is the 
set of *Four large bas-relief medalions by Konti, placed on 
the E. and W. walls, high up in the spaces between the 
arches, just at the curve of the vaulted ceiling. They are of 
a dull golden bronze ; and each contains a symbolic female 
figure whose form is barely veiled by filmy drapery. They 
represent, respectively: i. "Enlightenment" (holds Roman 
lamp in left hand) ; 2. "Peace"' (with clasped hands holding 
olive branch) ; 3. "Law" (right hand upraised in admonish- 
ment, left hand holding scroll) ; 4. "Patriotism" (shield on 
right arm, unfurled flag behind her). 

The marbles of the Vestibule floor deserve attention; the centre, 
of Tennessee marble, is surrounded by a broad inter-lacing border of 
Knoxville marble, outlined by brass, which forms at the foot of each 
grand stairway a loop centered by Formosa marble. 

*The Patio. The most unique spot in this exceptionally 
attractive building is the Patio, or central court. The visitor 
entering here finds himself suddenly in the midst of a trans- 
planted corner of the tropics. On all sides of the four L- 
shaped flower beds there arise giant palms, bread-fruit trees, 
rubber plants and numerous other species of South American 
flora while amid this foliage brilliant red and blue Macaws 
scream discordantly. 

The walls of the patio are of a rough white stucco broken on all 
sides by wide spaces through which a view of the interior may be 
commanded from the Vestibule, the stairways and the Gallery of 
Patriots. Above is a polychrome terra-cotta frieze containing the 
inscribed names of twelve great leaders, three on each wall, and each 
of them flanked by two escutcheons, designed to contain the coats-of- 
arms of the various American Republics. As it happens the latter 



THE PAN AMERICAN UNION 167 

number at present only twenty-one. Accordingly the coat-of-arms 
of Canada has been, somewhat incongruously, mckided (the excuse 
being found in the inclusion of Champlain among the inscribed names) ; 
^ while, after considerable debate, the two escutcheons flanking the single 
' name of Columbus, were filled respectively with the Scales of Freedom 
and the Broken Chain, symbolic of freedom. Above the frieze a seven- 
foot cornice, tinted in bright colors, surrounds the court. Its design 
is reminiscent of that of the patio in the Municipal Palace at Barcelona. 
The leaders whose names were chosen to be enrolled in the patio 
^ frieze are as follows. West Wall: San Martin, of La Plata (now 
Argentina); Columbus; Washington. North Wall: Marti, of Cuba; 
Hidalgo; Morazan of Central America. East Wall: Champlain; Boli- 
var, of Venezuela; O'Higgins, of Peru. South Wall: Artigas, ot 
Uruguay, Bonifacio, of Brazil; L'Ouverture, of Haiti. 

i In the centre of the Patio is a fountain modeled and 

1 executed by Gertrude Vanderbilt IVhitney (Mrs. Harry Payne 
Whitney), 

It consists of an octagonal basin, from the centre of which rises 

a pillar supporting two other basins from wtich the water descends. 

The chief sculptural motives of the fountain are three figures on the 

central pillar symbolizing the past, present and future of America. 

)i The first, facing the entrance, is an archaic figure of an Aztec warrior; 

'i the second is a semi-barbarous American Indian such as the first 

European explorers found him; the third is a womani whose attitude 

I and gesture seem to refuse to reveal the secret of the future. By a 

I complicated mechanism the fountain can be beautifully illuminated, 

,' electrically, at night, the colors and change of water being controlled 

; from a key-board in an adjacent room. Another notable feature of 

' the patio is the pavement of Enfield tile, composed of small cubes 

; with coarse mosaic designs in black, adapted from Mayan and Incan 

originals by J. H. Dulles-Allen. The two chief groups, one of two seated 

j figures, the other of three figures, of which the central onet isi standing, 

1 are both copied from low-reliefs in the Palace at Palenque. 

( W. of the Patio are the lobby and large Reading Roem 

' (100 ft. by 40 ft.) of the Columbus Memorial Library, the 

offices and stack-rooms of which occupy almost the entire 
,' portion of both stories on the N. side of the building. The 

library has grown rapidly, and now contains (1922). approxi- 
j mately 50,000 volumes of works relating to the Americas in 

English, Spanish, Portuguese, French and German. 
; The library is open free for reference at all times when 

I the building itself is open to the public. There are private 
. studies for the use of persons engaged in special research work. 

I Among the interesting exhibits in the main reading room are: 

■j a huge central relief map of Latin America, which vividly portrays the 
\ topography and nature of the land; a case showing the leading 
I agricultural products of Central and South America; a case contain- 
ing variovis different species of valuable woods, including Ebony, 
Royal palm. Black heart wood and Diablo muerto from Central 
! America, Log-wood from Guatemala, Mora or Fustic wood from Mexico 
^ and white Mahogany from Bolivia; and a case containing miscellaneous 
groups of the products of Latin-America, including a collection of 
1 gold and silver ores and other minerals, of cocoa, Dominican Hemp 
i and the Tonca bean from Venezuela, together with an exhibit illus- 
^ trating the manufacture of Panama hats. 



i68 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

The Gallery of Patriots. The visitor may now return to 
the Vestibule and ascend the stairs leading into the foyer on 
the floor above, which, with the adjacent N. corridor, con- 
stitutes the Gallery of Patriots. This collection will eventually 
consist of twenty-one portrait busts in marble, each of which is 
a contribution from one of the twenty-one Republics. The 
pedestals on which they rest are plain square pilasters of dark 
reddish-brown Languedoc marble, which is also used for the 
wall bases and door trims. 

Of the twenty-one busts, sixteen are already in place, the United 
States being temporarily represented by a plaster copy of Houdon's 
Washington, which occupies the central point in the foyer, facing the 
Hall of the Americas. The other busts already in place are as follows, 
beginning with the N. aisle: i. Dessalines (Normil Ulysse Charles, 
sculptor), presented by Haiti; 2. Marti, presented by Cuba; 3. Barrios, 
presented by Guatemala; 4. Unanue, presented by Peru; 5. Sucre, pre- 
sented by Bolivia; 6. Bolivar (Rudolph Evans, sculptor), presented by 
Venezuela; 7. San Martin (Herbert Adams, sculptor), presented by 
Argentine Republic; 8. O'Higgins, presented by Chile; 9 Artigas (/. 
Belloni, sculptor), presented by Uruguay; 10. Jaurez, presented by 
Mexico; 11. Bonifacio (Charpenticr. sculptor), presented by Brazil; 12. 
Herrera (Chester Beach, sculptor), presented by Panama; 13. Mora 
(Juan R. Bonill, sculptor), presented by Costa Rica; 14. Morazan. 
presented by Honduras; 15. Delgardo (Ferraris, scuptor), presented by 
Salvador. 

Opening from the foyer, on the W., is the Hall of the 
Americas, the chief show room of the building. It measures 
100 X 65 ft., and is finished throughout in white, the only 
touches of color being the purple and gold of the furniture 
and the gilded bronze of the chandeliers. The vaulted ceil- 
ing, barrel-arched like the foyer and great Vestibule, is sup- 
ported by twenty-four fluted Corinthian columns. The side 
columns are" free and grouped in pairs inclosing side aisles ; 
the end columns are engaged. The five W. windows, cor- 
responding to the five entrances from the foyer, have colored 
borders, consisting of the arms and other symbols of the 
American Republics (Nicola D'Asccnzo, artist). 

At each end of the Hall of the Americas is a smaller 
hall, originally designed respectively for the Governing Board 
Room, and the Committee or Dining Room. The latter 
(reached from the foyer), has been re-christened the Colum- 
bus Room, and contains the nucleus of a collection of Colum- 
bus relics. They consist mainly of early woodcuts and 
engravings, facsimile reproductions of ancient maps and photo- 
graphs of historic spots associated with the great Genoese. 

*The Governing Board Room. This room is closed to 
the public; but visitors may obtain a fairly satisfactory view 
through the entrance on the E. The color scheme is brown 
and gold, the wall covering being a dull ellow brocade, up to 



T E R. B. AC E 




SECOND FLOOR PLAN OF THE NEW BUILDING OF THE 
: .._ PAN AMERICAN UNION 



i;o RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

the gilded bronze frieze. The chairs and oval table (20 x 9 ft.), 
are Dominican mahogany. On each chair are carved the name 
and coat-of-arms of one of the Republics. 

The most noteworthy single feature of this room is the Bronze 
Frieze, consisting of four panels illustrating the chief events in the 
early history of the new world. They were modeled by Sally James 
Farnum (Mrs. Paulding Farnum), of New York, and have a uniform 
height of 2 ft. 9 in.; the length of the side and end panels being 
respectively 25 ft. and 9 ft. 6 in. 

South Wall. South American panel (L. to R.) : i. Pizarro's 
ruthless conquest of the peace-loving, sun-worshipping Incas; 2. Simon 
Bolivar, the Liberator of South America, leading bis dismounted cav- 
alry across the Andes; 3. San Martin and O'Higgins meeting at the 
Battle of Chacabuco, 181 7. Separating these historic scenes, and 
framed within torsion columns_ are two familiar types of South Amer- 
ica: on L., the Llama driver, wrapped in his poncho; on R., the gaucho 
or roving cowboy of the pampas, with his bolas in his hand. West 
Wall. North American panel: Champlain negotiating with the Indian 
chiefs. North Wall. Mexican and Central American panel (L. to R.) : 
I. Cortez and the Aztecs (note especially the invader's native wife, 
Marina, walking beside his war horse and preceded by the sinister figure 
of the Grand Inquisitor; 2. The landing of Columbus; 3. Balboa dis- 
covering the Pacific. Dividing these scenes, and framed by reproduc- 
tions of tbe famous Stela of Copan, are two symbolic figures: i. on 
L., Indian figure of Goddess of Plenty, representing Agricultural 
Wealth; 2. on R., Indian toiling in mine, representing Mineral 
Wealth. East Wall. Brazilian panel: Dom Joao, King of Portugal, 
landing at Rio de Janeiro, commemorating the transference, in 1808, 
of the Portuguese seat of government to the New World. 

Behind the main building, at the extreme western limit 
of the attractive formal garden, is the Pan American Annex, 
erected in 1912 (Kelsey and Cret, architects), its dimensions 
and position being in part dictated by the desire to shut from 
sight certain unsightly factory buildings. It is used for extra 
offices, exhibits and storage purposes. 

Its interest to visitors centres in its triple-arched loggia, which 
is said to be the most beautiful attempt of its kind to re-embody in 
modern construction the aboriginal art of Latin-America. Here, in 
both high and low relief, in bright and in dull colors, fragments of 
this early American art taken from Palanque, Copan, Quirigua, Mitla 
and Chichen-Itza have been brought together and faithfully reproduced, 
affording a glimpse of the highly developed civilization which flourished 
in southern America before the coming of Columbus, Cortez and 
Pizarro. The splendor of Chichen-ltza, the Holy city of early Mexican 
civilization, has supplied the greater part of the design. The general 
form of the composition is taken from its famous monastery. The 
huge monster's head in the centre is copied from the Iglesia or 
church, and the two standing figures on either side of the jaws are from 
the Temple of the Jaguars, while the smaller panels, of various forms 
and colors, have been taken from a large number of beautifully sculp- 
tured facades and crumbling temples. x 

The large figure facing the pool in front of the Annex is a repro- 
duction of a famous stone carving known as the "Sad Indian" and 
regarded as one of the most precious relics of the Aztec period. ' 

Within the Pan-American grounds is the site of the historic cot- 
tage of Davy Burnes, one of the four original owners of the land com- 



THE CORCORAN ART GALLERY 183 

Shadows Lie; Thomas P. Anshut^ (1851-1912), A Dutchman; 
Thomas Sully, Portrait of Mrs. Fanny Yates Levy ; John S. 
Sargent, Portrait O'f Gen. Leonard Wood; Emil Carlsen 
(1853- ), Moonlight on a Calm Sea; Mary Cassatt, Little Girl 

Embroidering; /. Alden Weir, Portrait of Miss de L ; 

Walter MacEzvcn (i860- ), Un Ancetre ; Walter Elmer Scho- 
field (1867- ), Cliff Shadows; /. Francis Murphy (1853- ), 
October. 

East Wall: Carl Rungius, Landscape; Robert Lee Mac- 
Cameron (1866-1912), GroLipe d'Amis. 

Continue through the W. door to Gallery G, at S. W, 
cor. O'f building. This room is used for temporary exhibits. 
At present (1922) it contains the collection of ''Flag Paint- 
ings," by Child e Hassam. 

The north door leads into Gallery H : 

North Wall: (E. to W.) : Jules Breton (1827-1906), Brit- 
tany Widow; Leon A. L'hermitte (1844- ), La Famille. 

West Wall: Jules Dupre (1811-89), The Pond of the 
Great Oak; Erskine Nicol (1825-1904), Paddy's Mark; George 
Morland (1763-1804), The Warrener ; C. F. Daubigny (1817- 
78), A Hamlet on the Seine near Vernon; Adolphe Monticelli 
(1824-86), Landscape; Emile-Van Marke (1827-90), Landscape 
with Cattle; /. B. C. Corot (1796-1875), The Wood Gatherers; 
Gustave Courbet (1819-78), Landscape; Jea^i Charles Cazin 
(1840-1901), Moonlight in Holland; Ferdinand Heilbuth 
(1826-89), On the Pincian Hill. Rome (Cardinal Questioning 
Acolytes) ; A^. V. Diaz de la Pena (1808-76), The Approaching 
Storm; Constant Troyon (1810-65), The Drinking Place; 
Blaise Alexandre Desgojfe, Souvenirs of the Sixteenth and 
Seventeenth Centuries. 

South Wall: F, H. Kaemnierer (1839-92), Beach at 
Scheveningen ; C. F. Daubigny, Landscape ; Cesare Maccari 
(1840- ), The Fortune Teller; Alphonse M. de Neuville 
(.1836-85 ) , Champagny. 

East Wall: Theophile de Bock (1851-1904), The Poudon 

Commons; Ludzmg Knaus (1829-1910), The Forester at 

j Home; Thomas Couture (1815-79), Female Head; Entile 

\ Breton, Winter Moonrise; Jozef Israels (1824-1911), Interior 

] of a Cottage; /. /. Hcnner (1829-1905), Joan of Arc in 

Infancy; Martin Rico (1850-1908), The Banks of the Adige ; 

Adolphe Schreyer (1828-99), The Watering Place: Felix Ziem 

j (1821-1911), Constantinople from the Golden Horn. 

Return to the atrium, and enter Gallery I through first 

door on left, N. of stairwav. 

I ^ North Wall: (E. to W.) : Jules Dupre (181 1-89), Moon- 

jlig-ht by the Sea; Jean Louis Gericault (1791-1824), Study of a> 

Torso; Jean Georges Vibert (1840-1902), The Schism; Entile- 

1 



i84 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Renouf (1845-94), The Helping Hand; Fran:: Linder (1738- 
1809), The Butterfly; Johannes H. L. De Haas (1832-80), 
Holland Cattle; Gaetano Chierici (1838- ), Fun and Fright. 

West Wall: Loitis Alnie Japy (1830-1916), Twilight; 
Ary Scheffcr (1797-1858), Portrait of Commodore Charles 
Morris; Oscar Bjorck (i860- ), The Nail Makers; John 
Jackson (1778-1831), A Portrait; B. Peretti, Autumnal Corn 
and Grapes; Liiigi Chialiva (1842-1914), A Shower; Hector 
Leroiix (1829-1900), *The Vestal Tuccia ; Johann IVilhebn 
Preyer (1803-89), Fruit; Luigi Chialiva, Fine Weather; Louis 
Mettling (1847-94), Study Head of a Young Man; Emilc 
Breton (1831-1902), Sunset; Sir Philip A. de Laszlo, *Head 
of an Indian Prince; Louis A. Japy, Spring Landscape. 

South W^all : Giistave Loiseau (1865- ), The Inundation; 
Simon Saint-Jean (1808-60), Fruit; Jan Bedys Tom (1813- ), 
Cattle; E. L. G. Isahey (1804-86), The Wedding Festival; 
Samuel F. B. Morse (1791-1872), The Old House of Repre- 
sentatives; Giovanni Battista Piaszetta (1682-1754), Two 
Heads; Pierre Edouard Frere (1819-86), Preparing for 
Church; Pierre E. T. Rousseau (1812-67), Landscape; Luigt 
Loir, Effect of Snow. 

East Wall: Aime Morot (1850- ). *E1 Bravo Toro : 
Frank Blackwetl Mayer (1827-99), Leisure and Labor: 
Georges C. Jeannin, Vase of Flowers; Richard Burnief 
(1826-84), Cattle on the .'Sea Shore, near Scheveningen ; 
Ferdinandus De Brackeleer (1792-1883), The Happy Family; 
Jean Louis de Marne (1754-1829), Interior; Franz Lenbach 
(1836-1904), *Otto, Fuerst von Bismarck; F. De Braekeleer, 
The Unhappy Family; Emilc Gustave Couder, Flower Piece;; 
Charles Ferdinand Venneman (1803-75). The Village Doc- 1 
tor; Pierre Charles Comfe (1823-95). A Scene at Fontaine-] 
bleau: Anatole Vcly (1838-82), *The Talking Well. 

The Corcoran School of Art, in the N. end of the Art 
Gallery Building, but with entrance on New York Ave., is 
open annually, from October to May, inclusive. It gives free 
instruction in drawing, painting, composition, anatomy and 
perspective. The only charge is an annual entrance fee of' 
$10.00 paid in advance. 

III. Lafayette Square 

Lafayette Square, (PI II — C4) facing the White House 
on the north, is a rectangular park of about seven acres 
bounded on the S. by Pennsylvania Ave., on the N. by H St. 
and on the E. and W. by Madison and Jackson Places 
Historically it is the most interesting of the smaller parks 
having been for nearly a century the center of Washington 
social life, while almost every house surrounding it is rich 



LAFAYETTE SQUARE 185 

in historical associations. Across this square Farragut 
walked with his seconds, on his way to the duel which was 
to end in his death ; on the E. side of the square Sickles 
shot and killed iPhilip Barton Key ; while on the Tuesday 
follo,wing Lincoln's assassination, when the body lay in state 
in the East Room, and the public were admitted, the entire 
square was thronged with waiting crowds, even at nightfall, 
when the doors were closed. 

As originally planned, Lafayette Square extended all the way 
from 15th to 17th St. The name is said to have been chosen by Wash- 
ington. No attempt to improve or lay out the grounds was made until 
after the War of 1812, the whole space remaining a neglected common 
destitute of trees, and used as a parade ground for military muster. 
At the W. corner there was an oval race-course, and Pennsylvania 
Ave. betw. 17th and 20th Sts. was the home-stretch. Jefferson was 
the first to interest himself in improving the park, at the same time 
considerably reducing it by cutting off both ends on the lines now 
marked by Madison and Jackson Pis. The first edifice facing the 
Square was St. John's Church (p. 195), erected in 1816, and the 
first private residence the Decatur House (p. 192), dating from 1819. 

-^ Lafayette Square contains five noteworthy monuments. 
At the S. E. corner is the Lafayette Memorial, erected by 
Congress in memory of the services of General Lafayette 
and his compatriots in the years of 1777-83. The figures 
were modeled by two French sculptors, Alexandre Falguiere 
and Antonin Mercie, and the pedestal designed by Paul 
Pujol. Surmounting the pedestal is the standing figure of 
[Lafayette in bronze, heroic size, while ibelow, in front, a 
partly draped figure, symbolizing America, is reaching up her 
sword to him. On the E. and W. sides of the pedestal re- 
spectively stand bronze figures of D'Estaing and De Grasse, 
of the French Navy, and of Rochambeau and Duportail of 
the French Army (note the distinguishing details of the 
anchor and the mortar). 

■]_ The plans by Falguiere and Mercie, chosen out of seven submitted 
in competition, in their original form proposed for the four subordinate 
statues of French ofificers the names of Rochambeau, Custine, Lauzin 
and Lameth. The Commissioners appointed by Congress and consist- 
ing at that time of Secretary Endicott, Architect Clark and Senator 
Everts, were not satisfied with the choice. Accordingly they invoked 
Ithe aid of Robert C. Winthrop, Bancroft the historian, and almost 
.every historical society in America, before arriving at the selection 
eventually approved. 

At the ,N. E. cor. of the Square stands the monument to 
Tadeusz Kosciuszko (1746-1817), tlie "Hero of both Hem- 
ispheres," a full length statue lin bronze, heroic size, sur- 
mounting a lofty pedestal of Vermont granite (height 17 ft., 
weight 115 tons), surrounded by four bronze sculptures 
^{Antonio Popiel, artist). Th° monument fronts to the N. 
,On the pedestal is inscribed the one word, "Saratoga," the 



i86 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

scene of Kosciuszko's chief service in America. Above: in 
bronze, the Western Hemisphere, with an American Eagle 
holding the Stars and Stripes. S. side: "Raclawice" (the 
scene of Kosciuszko's greatest Polish victory, April 4th, 
1794). Above: in bronze, the Eastern Hemisphere with 
Eagle of Freedom strangling Serpent of Despotism. 

"The inscription is the well-known quotation: "And Freedom 
shrieked as Kosciuszko fell." The statue was "erected by the Polish 
National Alliance of America, and presented to the United States in 
behalf of the Polish-American Citizens, May nth, 1910." 

E. side : Bronze group. American soldier cutting the 
bonds of the American farmer, freeing him from the foreign 
yoke. W. side : Polish soldier wounded and falling, is pro- 
tected by Polish farmer with scythe. 

At the N. W. cor. of the Square stands the monument 
to Baron von Steuben (1730-94), modeled by Albert Jaegers, 
and unveiled Dec. 7th, 1910. A replica presented to the 
former Emperor of Germany, William II, and to the German 
nation was unveiled at Potsdam Sept. 2d, 191 1. 

On the W. Side of the pedestal is a bronze group consisting of 
a seated woman admonishing a kneeling lad and symbolizing "Com- 
memoration." On the E. side a helmeted warrior in classic garb is 
instructing a youth, representing "Military Instruction." On the S. 
side: bronze plaque with medallion portraits of Col. William Worth 
and Maj. Benjamin Walker, aides and friends of von Steuben. 

Baron von Steuben offered his services to Congress in 1778, and 
was appointed instructor general of the Continental Army, with rank 
of Major General. He drilled W'ashington's defeated army at Valley 
Forge, took active part in the siege of Yorktown, and was a member 
of the Court Martial which tried Major Andre. Congress granted 
him a pension of $2400. 

S. W. cor. : Monument to Rochambeau given by France 
in 1902 {F. Hamar, sculptor). Bronze figure, heroic size, 
facing S. ; below : female figure symbolizing liberty, holding 
sword and banner, with American eagle at her side. N. 
side, inscription :' 

"We have been contemporaries and fellow-laborers in the cause 
of liberty, and we have lived togther, as brothers should do, in 
harmonious friendship." Washington to Rochambeau, Feb. ist, 1784. 

Rochambeau came to America with! an army of 6000 French soldiers 
to help Washington, and his co-operation with the forces of Lafayette 
resulted in the defeat 6f Cornwallis at Yorktown. When this statue- 
was unveiled by President Roosevelt, in 1902, among those present were 
representatives of the families both of Lafayette and Rochambeau. 

In the center of the Square is located the much dis- 
cussed Equestrian Stat-ue of Andrew Jackson, modeled by 
Clark Mills and cast by him at Bladensburg, where he set 
up a furnace for the purpose. It was the first successful, 
large bronze casting made in the United States. 

This statue cast from cannon captured by Jackson in his various 1 
battles, was inaugurated Jan. 8th, 1853, being the 38th anniversary ot 
Jackson's victory at New Orleans. 



LAFAYETTE SQUARE 187 

There arc two bronze replicas: on^^ New^ Orleans, the scene 
of Jackson's achievement; the other in Nashville^XTenn., where his 
ashes repose. 

A popular legend, repeated in practically all the guide books, 
is to the effect that this statue of a rearing horse is so delicately ad- 
justed that it stands poised on hind feet without any pivot or anchor. 
In point of fact it is securely bolted to the foundation as a protection 
against the danger of high winds, a possible earthquake shock or other 
casualties. But the statue does balance; and Mr. Mills used to 
demonstrate this fact with a miniature replica of the horse, which 
balanced perfectly whether mounted or unmounted. -^ ■ 

Almost every house facing on Lafayette Square is his- 
toric. Beginning on the E. side, at Pennsylvania Ave. and 
Madison Place (formerly 15^^/2 St.), adjoining the Riggs 
Bank on the E. and the Belasco theatre on the N. is the 
recently erected Treasury Annex, a classic structure of gray 
Indiana limestone, with 8 Ionic columns on the principal or 
Lafayette Park facade. It is connected with the Treasury 
[Building by a tunnel under Pennsylvania Ave. The Annex 
(contains the Income Tax Unit. The site which it occupies 
lis that of the seventh house on the Square, erected 
;about 1836 by Dr. Thomas S. Gunnell, a dentist, whom 
President Van Buren appointed City Postmaster. Later 
Postmaster General Samuel D. Hubbard lived here. During 
the Civil War this house was temporarily (1863) headquar- 
ters of the Department of Washington. 

The Belasco Theatre, formerly the Lafayette Square 
Opera House, was designed and supervised by U. H. 
\Painter, a civil engineer. A bronze memorial tablet, erected 
by the architect's daughters in 1902, records the fact that the 
building "was erected of steel skeleton construction, stone, 
terra-cotta, mackite and brick, to prove that an opera house 
can be made safe at all times from fire and panic.*' The 
theatre was first opened September 30th, 1895. 

ill The above mentioned tablet also preserves in bronze a basrelief 
ipresentment of the historic *Rodgers House, which occupied this site 
for the greater part of a century. The land was once owned by Henry 
iClay, who conveyed it to Commander John Rodgers in exchange for 
a jackass which Rcdgers had brought from a foreign port. Here 
■Rodgers built the third house on the Square, in 1S31. After his death 
it became the home of Roger B. Taney while Secretary of the Treasury 
1(1833); then of James K. Paulding, Secretary of the Navy (1838). 
After this it was, for a w"hile, a fashionable boarding house, number- 
ing among its guests John C. Calhoun, while Jackson's Secretary of 
War, and Henry Clay, while Secretary of State. Subsequently, it be- 
came the home of the fashionable and exclusive Washinaton Club. 
Daniel Sickles and Philip Barton Key were both members; and it was 
about 100 ft. S. of the club house door that Sickles shot and killed 
(^ey; February 27th, 1859 (P- I93)- The house was modernized and 
bccupied by William H. Seward, while Secretarv of the State under 
^ ^Lincoln; and here, on the night of April 14th, 1865, Mr. Seward, then 
|ritically ill as the result of a runaway accident, was attacked and 
\ 

i 



i88 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

nearly killed by Lewis Payne, one of the Lincoln conspirators. The 
house was next occupied by General and Mrs. Belknap, tnen for a 
time it was Government headquarters for the Commissary Department, 
Lastly it was purchased by James G. Blaine, who died here. 

No. 21, adjoining the theatre on the N., was erected in 
1828 by Benjamin Ogle Tayloe, second son of Col. John 
Tayloe of the Octagon House (p. 209). He personally 
preferred a country residence; but after his marriage, in 
1824, to Miss Julia Maria Dickinson, he yielded to his bride's 
desire for a city home. The house, until his death in 1868, 
was one of the chief centres of social life and hospitality in 
Washington. Here, President William Henry Harrison paid 
his last visit to any private house. Here, Philip Barton Key, 
a connection of the Tayloes by marriage, was brought to die 
when shot by Sickles. Mr. Tayloe's famous collection of pic- 
tures, ornaments and curios was exhibited for some years 
in the Corcoran Art Gallery, but has recently been claimed by 
the Tayloe heirs and removed to Troy. 

A later occupant of the Tayloe house was Admiral Paulding, a 
son of John Paulding, one of the captors of ]\lajor Andre. It was the 
birthplace of Lolly Hammersley, later Dowager Duchess of Marl- 
borough. Vice-President Garrett C. Hobart lived here; and during 
the McKinley administration it was the home of Senator Marcus A. 
Hanna, and was popularly known as the "little White House." The 
Tayloe house is now a part of thei Cosmos Club (see below), and is 
used as a Ladies' Annex. The barn in the rear has been converted 
into an assembly hall for scientific and literary meeetings. 

The Cosmos Club (PI. II— D4), on S, E. cor. of Madi- 
son PI. and H St., is one of the foremost social institutions in 
America, not only because of its exclusiveness, but because 
of its many distinguished members. Many leading authori- 
ties in science, art and literature are included in its member- 
ship of approximately 11,100 (resident members 700; non- 
resident 400). 

This club was organized November i6th, 1878, sand according t^ 
its articles of incorporation: "The particular objects and business of 
this association are the advancement of its members in science, htera- j 
ture and art, their mutual improvement by social intercourse, the ac- 
quisition and maintenance of a library, and the collection and care of 
materials and appliances relating to the above subjects." The club's 
by-laws membership is restricted to "men — (a) Who have ^done I 
meritorious work in science, literature or the fine arts; (b) Who, tho j 
not occupied in science, literature or the fine arts, are known to be j 
cultivated therein; (c) Who are distinguished in a learned profession 
or in public service." 

The Cosmos Club is the regular meeting place of several important 
scientific societies: i. The Biological Society of Washington, organized 
December 3d, 1880, "to encourage the study of Biological Sciences, an! 
to hold meetings at which papers shall be read and discussed." It hnn 
a membership of over 300. 2. The Botanical Society, organized Novem- 
ber 23d, 1901, through the consolidation of the Botanical Seminar 
(1893), and the Washington Botanical Society (1898). Its membership' 



LAFAYETTE SQUARE ' 189 

is about 150. 3. The Chemical Society of Washington, organized 
January 31st, 1884. Present membership about 360. 4. The Washing- 
ton Society of Engineers, organized November 23d, 1905. Present 
membership upward of 400. 

The buildings occupied by the club include the historic 
"Dolly Madison House," the Tayloe house, already described, 
and a modern annex erected between them on the sites of 
two dwellings (demolished 1908), the former homes respect- 
ively of Col. Robert G. Ingersoll and William lllndom, Sec- 
retary of the Treasury. 

The Dolly IVIiadison House is a structure in the Colonial 
style, dating from 1818. Its builder and first occupant 
was Richard Cuffs, brother-in-law of Mrs. Madispn, 
whose name is perpetuated historically in the "John Gilpin" 
parody, published after Mrs. Madison's flight from the White 
House at the approach of the British forces in 1814: 

"My sister Cutts and Cutts and T, 
And Cutts' children three, 
Will fill the coach. So you must ride 
On horseback after we." 

Owing to the fact that Mr. Cutts was in debt to Presi- 
dent Madison, the house passed into the latter's hands about 

1835, and constituted part of his estate on his death in June, 

1836. Mrs. Madison was then too poor to occupy it, her 
personal property having been squandered by her son, Payne 
Todd. In March. 1837, Congress appropriated $30,000 for 
the purchase of Madison's diary of the debates and events 
connected with the framing of the Federal Constitution. 
Mrs. Madison was thus enabled to return to the Capital, and 
she resided in this house until her death in July, 1849. Sub- 
sequent tenants include: Attorney General Crittenden, Sena- 
tor William C. Preston and Commodore Wilkes, who, by 
curious coincidence, found himself, in 1861, obliged to take 
his former close neighbor, Slidell, from the British 
Steamship Trent. During the Civil War this house was occu- 
pied by Gen. George B. McClellan as headquarters of the 
Army of the Potomac. Note bronze tablet on H St. Fagade. 

Diagonally opposite, on the N. W. cor. of H St. and Ver- 
Inont Ave., which here radiates towards the N. E., is the re- 
cently erected Arlington Building, occupying the site of the 
famous old Arlington Hotel, demoKshed in 1912, to make way 
'or a more ambitious hotel structure, an enterprise later aban- 
doned. The main body of the hotel, erected in 1869, occupied 
he northern portion of the plot, replacing three historic dwell- 
ings formerly standing on the Vermont Ave. side. These were 
|tN..to S.) : I. (cor. of I St.) the home of Rcverdy Johnson, 
ine-time Minister to England and Attorney-General under 



190 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Taylor ; 2. home o-f William D. Marcy, Secretary of State un- 
der Pierce; 3. home of Lewis Cass, one-time Minister to 
France, Secretary of War under Jackson and of State under 
Buchanan. The H St. addition, built in 1890, incorporated 
the former homes of Charles Sumner (on the H St. cor.) 
and of Senator Pomeroy, adjoining it on the W. 

The Arlington was unrivalled among Washington hotels in its 
list of celebrated guests, including Emperor Dom Pedro of Brazil, 
King Kalakaua of the Hawaiian Islands, the Grand Duke Alexis, 
President Diaz of Mexico, Henry Irving and Adelina Patti. Li 
Hung Chang stayed here with his suite of one hundred. During 
the Russian-Japanese war Prince Fushimi of Japan occupied the 
entire H Street annex. Practically all the Presidents stayed at the 
Arlington before their inauguration, from 1870 until McKinley's 
time. This hotel was long the diplomatic headquarters of Latin 
America. Mexico's destiny during the Madero revolution was framed 
here. And it is said that the Peace Conference of American Re- 
publics could not have reached a pact, except for what took place 
in Room 31 during 1907. 

Walter O. Gresham, Secretary of State, and Henry C. Payne, 
Postmaster-General, bdth died in the Sumner portion of the annex. 

The Arlington Building is a ao-story structure of gray 
Indiana limestone, designed on the Corinthian order, and was 
completed in Nov., 1919. It houses the United States Veterans 
Bureau, created by Act of Congress, approved Aug. 9, 1921, 
which assumed all the powers and duties formerly pertaining 
to the War Risk Insurance Bureau, together with that part 
of the functions and duties of the Federal Board for Voca- 
tional Education conferred -by the Vocational •Rehabilitation 
Act of June 27, 1918. There is nothing within this building 
to interest sightseers. 

Adjoining the Arlington Building on the W. is a large 
square double mansion, the eighth house erected on the 
Square, often called the *Ashburton House. It was 
buih by Matthew St. Clair Clarke, Clerk of the House 
of Representatives during 1822-34. Clarke lost a fortune of 
$200,000 in speculation, and consequently the pretentious 
$5000 marble portico which he had ordered for his house 
never left the marble yard in Baltimore. Later it was the 
home of Joseph Gales, editor of the A'ational Intelligencer. 
Lord Ashburton resided here when in 1842 he was sent by 
Sir Robert Peel to settle the "Northeastern Boundary" ques- 
tion. It was the home of John Nelson, Attorney-General 
under Tyler in 1843. Later it became the British Legation 
during the regime of Sir Henry Lytton Bulwer (1849-52"), 
who brought with him as escretary his nephew, Robert Bul- 
wer, known in literature as "Owen Meredith." The tradi- 
tion is that the latter's most widly read poem. Lucile, was^' 
written or at least begun in this house. Later tenants were:| 
Attorney-General Nelson and I^Irs. Alargaret Freeman. 



LAFAYETTE SQUARE 191 

Adjoining on the west, N. E. cor. of i6th St., is the his- 
toric St. John's Church (see Sixteenth Street Section 
p. 195) ; and opposite, on the N. W. cor., is the residence of 
the late John Hay (p. 199), now occupied by bis son-in-law, 
James VV. Wadsworth, Jr., Senator from New York. 

No. 160S H St., west of the Hay House, is the residence 
built about 1885 for Henry Adams, the historian, one of four 
brothers grandsons of John Quincy Adams. It is now occupied 
by the Brazilian Embassy. 

Two famous old dwellings, the Stockton House and Cor- 
coran House, which formerly occupied the remainder of the 
block westward to Connecticut Ave., were demolished in the 
spring of 1922, to make way for a National Headquarters that 
i IS being erected by the Chamber of Commerce of the United 
^toites, a body comprising upward of 1200 separate business 
organizations. The designs for the new building have been 
prepared by Cass Gilbert, and the estimated cost is $'2,750,000 

ficP 2Z t?° -Tv, ?°"n- (^°-./6o7), a large cream-colored brkk edi- 
fice was the ninth dwelling built upon the Square, and was erected and 
first occupied by Commodore Richard Stockton. It wa3 later purchased 
,by Thomasi Ritchie President Polk's anti-Blair editor described as 
\rtZT f'"''t ^''^ ^T"" '^^' ever wore nankeen trousers and b'oad- 
.brimmed straw hat." Its next tenant was Senator John Slidell from 
^Louisiana, who later gained notoriety in the Mason-Slidel episoT 
'It was next occupied by Gideon Welles, Secretary of he Nav; 
ithroughout the Lincoln and Johnson administrations; by Daniel Lamont^ 
?ru4'7n'nd^' h""^-''' Cleveland and by Russell A.^Alger Secretary 
:-j ^^.^V under Harrison. Its last oocupants were the American 
jAssoctatton of Umversity Women, now at 1634 I St. ^>nencan 

j The Corcoran House which formerly adjoined the Stock- 
|:on House on the west at the N. E. cor. of H St and 
-.onnecticut Ave., was built by the father of one-time Gov- 
ernor Ihomas Swann of Maryland. Its early tenants were- 
'■. the^ Russian Minister, Krudener ; 2. Aaron Vale Van 
jiurens Assistant Secretary of State; 3. Daniel Webster 
becretary of State under Harrison and Tvler (1841-43) 

la. ^^hl 'a?A ^"Po^^ant transaction during Weloster's tenure of office 

estern hmfiH"'*°w^''^*^\'^VT'^^- ^^^^^^ ^^^ "^"'^h disputed north- 
' ?rtnn ^°"",^^^y between the Umted States and Canada. Lord Ash- 

urton was frequent y entertained by Webster who, as part of his 
lolTZl' 'j '"1, '° \";^- Pl^""ed a series of dinneis that^ would have 
l.tonished Lucullus— Maine salmon, Massachusetts cod, Connecticut 
^ltr^l7llf'Z'^T ^"'^ ^-^'^^^ canvasbacks, served in ^fashion 
fuS^'^^^r^^^^^'^ ^^^^^^' ^"^ ^^^ -'--^ - ^he shores 
\ \^.ff^Z\^^v'^^ himself, after his resignation, unable to keep up 
'aiS and fonnS""'"/- .T^^ '^ '° ^^^"^T ^^ Corcoran, the millionair? 

m^t.l ^ founder of the Corcoran Art Gallerv (p. 171) and the 
^omse Home Op. 228 . After the outbreak of ^'the Civil War Mr 
lEie"ofTe°T"''^ sympathies for the South incurred tSe dH- 
!So4riW in Fn?nnT"Tv,"''T.^']^ 'i"^ ^°,""^ 't wise to exile himself 
\Kr^.l^l- " Europe. The Federal authorities were on the point of 

nfiscating his home, when they fom.d themselves blocked by ?he fa?t 



192 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

that he had leased the property to the French Minister, the Marquis de 
Montholon. After Mr. Corcoran's death, in 1888, the house' was 
occupied successively by Senator Calvin S. Brice, Senator Chauncey 
Depew, and William Corcoian Eustis, who was Chairman of the 
Inaugural Committee at President Wilson's first Inauguration. 

No. 1617 H St., a large square red brick house at the 
N. W. cor. of Connecticut Ave., was the residence of Rear 
Admiral Williain B. Shubrick, who served with distinction 
on board the Constitution, and was for many 3^ears, until 
1874, head of the Light House Board. 

No. 162 1 was the home of the late Judge George Bancroft 
Davis, former Secretary of State and Minister to Germany. 

No. 1623, a weather-beaten structure, of which the lower 
story has lately been remodeled into shops, was for many years, 
until his death, the home of George Bancroft, the historian. It 
was here that he completed his History of the United States. 

The *Decatur House, (PI. II — C4) the first private residence 
on Lafayette Square, stands at the S. W. cor. of H. St. and 
Jackson Place (formerly 16^ St.), facing the Von Steuben 
Monument. It was designed by Latrobe and 'built in 1819 for 
Commodore Stephen Decatur, the hero of the war with 
Tripoli. For a single season this house was a brilliant social 
centre, presided over by the Commodore's beautiful and 
accomplished wife, who had once been sought in marriage 
by Jerome Bonaparte. On March 22d, 1820, Decatur died 
here, from wounds received in an encounter with Captain 
(later Commodore) James Barron, on the famous Bladens- 
burg Duelling-ground (p. 414). 

The ill-feeling between the two officers dated back to 1808, when 
Decatur was a member of the court-martial which suspended Barron 
for five years from rank and pay, for his surrender of the Chesa- 
peake to the Le\opard. The immediate cause of the duel, however, 
was Decatur's severe criticism of Barron for not returning from 
abroad to do his part in the war of 1812. Decatur, mortally wounded,, 
was carried from the field and died in a few hours. The funeral, 
three days later, was attended by the President and his Cabinet.! 
the Supreme Court Judges and almost the whole Congress. J 

The house was leased by the widow (1823) to the Ru3-!| 
sian Minister, Baron de Tuyll. Later it was occupied sucli 
cessively by three Secretaries of State: Henry Clay (1825-, 
29); Martin Van Buren (1829-31), resigning from Jack, 
son's Cabinet to become Minister to England; and Edwarc' 
Livingston (1831-33), brother of Chancellor Livingston, whCj 
administered the oath of office to Washington. 

It was during Van Buren's occupancy that the second-stor» 
window on the South side was cut through, in order that the Secie| 
tary could watch for signals from the White House. 

Later occupants include the British Minister, Sir Charles Vaughanl 
the French Minister, Baron Hyde de Neuville, whose vivacious wife ' 



LAFAYETTE SQUARE 193 

remembered for the amusing error of her habitual greeting, "I am 
charming to see you"; John Gadsby. host of the National Hotel; Joseph 
Gales, who with Seaton owned the National Intelligencer; Howell Cobb. 
Secretary of the Treasury (1857-80); the two brothers, John A. and 
James C. King of New York, father and uncle respectively of Mrs. 
Bancroft-Davis; and Judah P. Benjamin, Senator from Louisiana, and 
subsequently Secretary of State under the Confederacy. During the 
Civil War this house was rented by the Government and used as 
offices. Subsequently it was acquired by General Edward Fitzgerald 
Beale, grandson of Commodore Truxton. under whom Decatur,^ first 
owner of the house, once served as midshipman. Here General Grant, 
after his retirement from the Presidency, stayed many weeks as guest 
of General Beale. 

No. 22 Jackson Place, home of JVilliam L. Marcy while 
Secretary of War under Polk ; later of Representative New- 
berry (Mich.) ; James G. Blaine. Sr., and Representative 
William L. Scott. It was occupied by President Roosevelt 
in 1902 during the remodeling- of the White House, and 
hence was popularly known as the "Temporary White 
House." It is now the home of the Women's City Club (1600 
;imembers). 

I No. 20, former home of Charles C. Glover, a banker. No. 18, 

.former home of William J. Mitrtagh who, in i860, founded the National 
\Rcpublican, which staunchly supported the candidacy of Lincoln; later 
'home of General Frank Steele. No. 16 (on N. side of Alley), former 
jhome of Major-General J. G. Parke. 

\ N'o. 14, the Stockton-Sickles House, was the second 
dwelling erected on the Square. It was originally built prior to 
1820, by Dr. Ezvell, a Naval Surgeon, and was probably the 
birth place of the rebel General Ewell ; subsequently it was 
occupied by three Secretaries of the Navy: i. Smith Thomp- 
son (until 1823); 2. Samuel L. Southard (1823-31); 3. 
Levi Woodbury (1831-34). Other tenants were: i. Senator 
William C. Rives of Virginia, grandfather of Amelie Rives 
Chanler. the novelist; 2. Dr. Harris of the Navy. It was 
Durchased by Stockton, a Purser in the Navy, and on his 
jleath by Daniel E. Sickles. 

From the upper windows of this house Mr. Sickles' misguided 
lyoung wife used to exchange signals with her lover, Philip Barton 
Key, at his club-house across the Park (p. 187). The gossip in this 
club presently reached the husband's ears; the wife's confession and 
jthe murder of Key promptly followed. 

1' Subsequently ^^ice-President Schuyler Colfax resided here for many 

years, from the time he was chosen Speaker of the House! in 1863. 
fj No. 12, former home of Mrs. James Blair, daughter of 
General Jessup. No. lo, former home of Senator Arthur P. 
Gorman. No. 8, residence of Admiral Aid en; then for many 
^ears the home of Major Henry R. Rathbone and his young 
!wife (daughter of Senator Ira Harris), both of whom were 
in the box with the Presidential party on the night of Lin- 
coln's assassination. It was Rathbone who grappled with 



194 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Booth, and received a thrust from the latter's dagger. Other 
tenants have been General N. L. Anderson and Senator 
Dolph. 

No. 6, residence of: i. Mrs. Green, daughter of 
Admiral Dahlgren ; 2. Col. William H. Philip. No. 4, for- 
mer residence of Johti McLean, editor of the Cincinnati 
Enquirer. No. 2, former residence of Peter Parker, one- 
time Minister to China. From 1906 until 1910 it v^as the 
temporary home of the Bureau of American Republics. 

Directly W. of the above mentioned house, on Pennsyl- 
'vania Ave., are two fine old mansions: the first, No. 1651, 
a four-story, yellow sandstone building, is the Blair House, 
built in 1810 by Surgeon-General Joseph Lovell. From its 
windows were witnessed the burning of the White House 
by the British, and the flight of Dolly Madison. After Dr. 
LoveU's death the house was bought by Francis P. Blair, 
editor of the Globe, the official organ of the Jackson admin- 
istration, and became a favorite rendezvous of Senator Ben- 
ton, Van Buren, Levi Woodbury, Silas Wright, etc. 

The Blair House was leased to George Bancroft, while 
Acting Secretary of War, and it was while living here that 
Bancroft gave orders for General Zachary Taylor to cross 
the Rio Grande and invade Mexico. Subsequent tenants 
were: John Y. Mason of Virginia, Secretary of the Navy 
under Tyler; and next Senator Thomas Ewing of Ohio. 

Senator Ewing had, in 1829, adopted William T. Sherman, and 
secured him a cadetship at West Point. The Blair House, during 
Ewing's tenacy, was the scene (1850) of the marriage of Sherman and 
Miss Ellen Ewing. The ceremony was attended by President Fillmore 
and his Cabinet, Clay, Webster and other notables. Blair's son, 
Montgomery Blair, Postmaster General under Lincoln, inherited the 
house and occupied it many years. 

The second historic house is No. 1653, the Lee Mansion, a 
three-story brick dwelling with mansard roof, residence of 
the late Rear Admiral Lee. Before the Civil War, General 
Robert E. Lee was a frequent visitor at both the Blair and 
Lee houses, and it is said that in one of them he received 
the offer of the command of the United States Army. 
Andrew Johnson resided here while Vice-President. The 
building is at present a Department of State Annex, occupied 
by the Office of the Foreign Trade Advisers. 

Beyond the Lee Mansion, at the N. E. cor. of Pennsyl- 
vania Ave. and 17th St., stands the original Corcoran Art 
Gallery, a red brick structure on the French Renaissance , 
order, with brownstone trirn (James Renrcvick, arch.). The 
eleven exterior niches encircling the building at the second 
story level, were formerly occupied by statues of sculptors 



SIXTEENTH ST. TO PINKY BRANCH BRIDGE 195 

. and artists executed by M. Ezckiel. The building was com- 

pleted in 1859, but not opened to the public as an Art Gallery 

until 1873, having been taken over during the Civil War for 

; the Quartermaster General's Department. Note the initials 

"W. W. C." three times repeated, on the main facade and in 

^ the pediment a medallion portrait in bronze of William W. 

. Corcoran. The building is now occupied ;by the 

Court of Claims of the United States. This Court was 
established by Act of Congress Feb. 24, 1855, and has genera' 
..jurisdiction oi all claims founded upon the Constitution or 
, the United States or any law of Congress (except for nen- 
1, sions), or upon any contract expressed or implied with the 
,! Unitecf States Government, or for damages where the plaintiff 
) would be entitled to redress in a Court O'f law if the ("Tinted 
- States were suable. By recent enactments the Court of Claims 
^has jurisdiction over certain specified claims arising from the 
i late \\'oTld War, and it is estimated that such claims will 
[.ultimately approximate $2,500,000,000. Famous claims adjudi- 
: Gated in this Court include such important litigation as that of 
<i the French Spoliations Claims and the claims arising out of the 
y Civil War and the War with Spain. 

:) Open to the public from 9 A. M. to 4 P. M. The Court 
proom contains many portraits of famous American jurists. 
liThe benches still used are the same that were formerly in the 
(original Hall of Representatives, and were once occupied by 
'such statesmen as Daniel Webster, Henry 'Clay, John Randolph 
-and John C. Calhoun. 

IV. Sixteenth Street to Piney Branch Bridge 

^Sixteenth Street, formerly called "The Avenue of the 
IPresidents," runs northward from Lafayette Square and in- 
cluding its recent extension over Meridian Hill continues in 
la straight line to the District Iwundary about 6^ miles. It is 
ktill one of the principal residential streets and contains many 
Iforeign legations, leading churches and other semi-public 
buildings. 

At the N. E. cor. of H and i6th Sts. stands the quaint, 
stucco-walled structure of *St. John's Protestant Episcopal 
Church (PI. II — C4), the second oldest church of that denom- 
jination within the former city limits of Washington. It dates 
.from 18 18, and has many historical associations, its attendants 
Including not only the early Presidents, but a long line of cabinet 
ininisters, members of Congress, army and navy officers and 
tforeign diplomats. A special pew (one of the original large 
-box pews, removed in 1842) was set apart "for the use of 
jthe family of the President for the time be'ng. and not 



196 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

chargeable with any rent." The Presidents who, during their 
term of office, worshipped here more or less regularly were : 
Madison, Alonroe, John Quincy Adams (usually the afternoon 
service, attending in the morning the Unitarian Church, which 
he had helped to found), Jackson, Van Buren, Harrison, 
Tyler, Taylor and Fillmore. After this no other President 
became connected with St. John's until President Arthur, who 
presented the church with a memorial window to his wife, 
whom he had lost the previous year (see below). Among, 
other distinguished attendants may be mentioned : Vice-Presi- 
dents CrJhoun, Dallas and Alorton ; Chief-Justices Chase and 
Fuller ; Secretaries of State Lewis Cass, William H. Seward, 
and Hamilton Fish, and several foreign ministers, including Lord 
Ashburton, Sir Henry Lytton-Bulwer, and Lord Pauncefote. 

History: I'he cornerstone of St. John's was laid Sept. 
14, 1815, by the Grand Lodge of Masons of the District. The 
edifice, designed by Beujamin H. Latrobe, one of the archi- 
tects of the Capitol (p. 52), was completed early in 1816, the 
trustees were appointed on April 14 of that year, and the first 
vestrymen chosen on July 16, nearly all of them prominent 
figures in the local history of the city. They included : 
Thomas H. Gilliss, John Tayloe, James Thompson, John 
Graham, Roger C. Weightman, Peter Hagner, John H. Van 
Ness, and James Blake. 

The church, as first erected, was a simple Greek cross ; at 
the intersection of the nave and transepts stood massive 
pillars, from which sprang the cupola and lantern, while a 
graceful circular gallery subtended the north, west and south 
transepts. Four years later, the need of more space compelled 
an enlargement to Latin Cross, and the west transept ex- 
tended almost to the building line on i6th St. Further altera- 
tions were made in 1842 ; and in the early eighties extensive 
improvements were undertaken, according to designs by 
James Rciiivick, including the enlargement of the chapel, the 
addition of a chantry and the instalment of 27 stained-glass 
windows. The seating capacity was increased to 780. In 1919 
the church underwent a careful restoration through the gener- 
osity of the late Mrs. John Barton Payne (1857-1919), as a 
memorial to her parents (see tablet at W. end, S. of entrance 
door). 

The above-mentioned series of *Memorial Windows con- 
stitute the church's chief ornamental feature, and were made 
at Chartres, France, at the famous studios of Mme. Lorin, 
Veuve. The subjects of these windows are as follows, be- 
ginning at the S. W. cor. of the nave: 



SIXTEENTH ST. TO PINEY BRANCH BRIDGE 197 

Lower Series (S. wall of Nave) : i. Leonard Gift Win- 
dow ; Upper Medallion : The Entry into Jerusalem, St. John 
XV, 12-15 ; Lower Medallion : Christ Walking on the Sea, St. 
John, vi, 16-21 ; 2. Randall Memorial Window ; Upper Me- 
dallion: The Baptism of Christ, St. Matthew iii, 13-17; 
Lower Medallion : Christ with Mary and Martha, St. Luke x, 
38-42; (S. Transept): 3. Carroll Memorial Window; Upper 
Meda'llion : The Ascension, St. Luke xxiv, 50-51; Lower Me- 
dallion. The Adoration of the Shepherds, St. Luke ii, 15-20; 
4, Memorial to Ellen Lewis Herndon Arthur (1837-80), Wife 
of Chester A. Arthur (gift of the President) ; Upper Me- 
dallion: The Women at the Tomb, St. Mark xvi, 1-6; Lower 
Medallion : The Angels of the Resurrection, St. John xv, 
11-12; (Chantry): 5. Memorial to Rear-Admiral Joseph 
Smith. U. S. N. (1790-1877) ; Upper Medallion: St. Peter 
Attempting to Walk on the Water. St. Matthciv xiv, 25-32; 
Lower Medallion : The Multitude before the Throne, Revela- 
tions vii, 9, 10; 6. Memorial to Charles Henry Crane, U. S. A. 
(1825-83) ; Upper Medallion: The Good Samaritan, St. Luke, 
X, 30-36; Lower Medallion: The Harpists, [Revelations xiv, 
1-2; 7. Memorial to Col. John J. Abert. U. S. A. (1788-1863) ; 
Upper Medallion : The Feast of the Passover, Jesus and His 
Disciples, St. Luke xxii, 7-14: Lower Medallion: The Annun- 
ciation to the Shepherds, St. Luke xi, 8-14; (Above Altar) : 
8. Three-paneled Window, the central panel being the Steele 
Memorial; The Last Supper; R. and L. panels are, respec- 
tively, the Lockwood and Wilkes Memorials (Rear-Admiral 
Wilkes, U. S. N.), consisting of ornamental glass with half 
figures of angels; (N. Transept): 9. The Blair Memorial: 
St. John's Window, the Titular window of the church ; Upper 
Medallion: The Calling of St. John, St. Matthezv iv, 21-22; 
Lower Medallion : St. John's Mission. St. John xxi, 20-23 ; 
; 10. Memorial to Col. Joseph C. Audenried, U. S. A. (1837- 
80) ; Upper Medallion : The Marriage of Cana, St. John ii, 
i-ii; Lower Medallion: The Good Centurian, St. Matthew 
viii, 5-13; (Nave, N. side): 11. Memorial to Peter Hagner 
(1772-1850), one of the founders of the church; Upper Me- 
dallion: St. John with his Emblems; Lower Medallion: The 
Angels before the Throne, Revelations v, 11-12; 12. King 
Gift Window ; Upper Medallion : St. John at Island of Pat- 
mos, Revelations v, 6; Lower Medallion: The Crucifixion, 
St. John xix, 25-27. 

Gallery Series: (Nave, S. side): 13. Memorial to Lieut.- 
Gen. Winfield Scott (gift of Hamilton Fish) ; Upper Medallion : 
Pool of Bethesda, St. John v, 2-9; Lower Medallion: The 
young Christ among the Doctors. St. Luke, ii, 41-51 ; 14. 



198 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Memorial to Maj.-Gen. Buchanan, U. S. A.; Ornamental 
glass with figure of Angel; (S. Transept); 15. Memorial 
to Col. William Turnbull, U. S. A., and his wife ; Ornamental 
glass with figure of Angel; 16. Gift of John Chandler Ban- 
croft Davis; The Healing of the Lame Man at the Beautiful 
Garden of the Temple, Acts iii, 1-9; 17- Churr Gift Window; 
Copy of Raphael's "Madonna della Sedia," in the Pitti Palace, 
Florence: (Apse, S. side); 18. Memorial to Brig.-Gen. Amos 
B. Eaton (1806-77) ; Lunette: The Transfiguration, St. Mark 
ix, 2-8; 19. King Gift Window; Lunette: The. Garden of 
Gethsemane, St. Mark xiv, 32-42; (N. wall) ; 20. Memorial to 
Lieut.-Gen. Ramsey, U. S. A.; Ornamental glass: (N. Tran- 
sept) ; 21. Alemorial to Harrison, Tyler and Taylor (Gift of 
the Vestry); Flight into Egypt, St. Matthew ii,' 13-15; 22. 
Memorial to "The Rt. Rev. William Pinckney, D.D. (1810-83), 
Bishop of this Diocese (Maryland), 1879-83)"; Christ in the 
Palace of the High Priest; St. John xviii, 15-18; 23. Mem- 
orial to Madison, Monroe and Van Buren (Gift of 
Vestry) ; The Adoration of the Magi, St. Madthew 
ii, I, 2 and 11; (Nave, N. wall); 24. Markoe Memorial; 
Copy ot Raphael's "Belle Jardiniere'' (Holy Family), in the 
Louvre, Paris; 25. Memorial to William Henry Seward; 
Upper Medallion: The Sower, 5^. Matthezv xiii, 3-9; Lower 
Medallion : The Presentation of the Infant Christ in the 
Temple, St. Luke ii, 22-39. 

Mr. Bancroft Davis,- a member of tl:e Committee on Windows, 
when visiting the Lorin works ordered a complete set of reduced 
copies of the windows, hand-painted in water-color; the descriptive text 
was set up in London, and two copies only were printed, one of which 
was bound with the paintings. This unique volume, the sole existing 
copy, may now be seen in the Print Department of the Congressional 
Library. 

The church contains two marble memorial tablets: i. 
(on E. wall of N. transept) to Rev. W^illiam Hawley (1715- 
1845), "Rector of this church for 28 years." His body is 
interred beneath the chancel; 2. Rev. Smith Pyne, D. D. 
(1803-75), Rector, 1845-64. 

Notable Events: St. John's has been the scene of several weddings 
of international interest, including the wedding of Mary Leiter to 
Lord Curzon (then the Hon. George Curzon, secretary of the British 
Legation) ; of the Hon. Lilian Pauncefote to her cousin, the Hon. 
Robert Bromley; and of Mary Endicott, daughter of William C. Endi- 
cott, Secretary of War under Cleveland, to Joseph Chamberlain, -later 
Premier of England. Here also took place the funerals of Dolly Madi- 
son, of ex-Secretary John Sherman, and of Lord Herschel, ex-Lord 
Chancellor of England. 

One of the most highly prized possessions of St. John's is a 
$10,000 Communion chalice, of solid gold encrusted with jeavel?, 
made from the rings, brooches and other jewelry given by Judge 
Bancroft Davis to his wife during his life, and afterwards willed by j 
the late Mrs. Davis to the church for this purpose. 



SIXTEENTH ST. TO PINEY BRANCH BRIDGE 199 

The chalice is ten inches high, and studded with sixty-one dia- 
monds, six rubies and a .sapphire. On the facie of the cup is a diamond 
cross, the central stone of which is from Mrs. Davis's engagement 
ring. This chalice is used only on especially solemn occasions, such 
as Easter Sunday. 

Opposite, on the N. W. cor. of H and i6th Sts., is the 
former residence (erected in 1885) of the late John Hay. 
Secretary of State under McKinley and Roosevelt, and 
author of Little Breeches, The Bread Winners, and (in 
collaboration with Mr. Nicolay) an authoritative Life of 
Lincoln. At S. E. cor. of I St. stands the Hotel Lafayette 
(p. 5). The house diagonally opposite, at N. W. cor. of I St., 
was once the residence of Absociate Justice Horace Gray. 

On this corner in 1846 lived Commodore Morris, one of the heroes 
of the war with Tripoli, and Commander of the Brandywine, which in 
1825 bore Lafayette back to France. Here William W. Corcoran 
courted the Commodore's daughter, Louise, who, because her father 
objected to a son-in-law "outside the service," consented to an elope- 
ment. The Commodore, discovering her in the act of climbing through 
the side window, very sensibly conducted the young couple into the 
house, sent for a minister and held a midnight wedding. 

No. 903 was formerly (1890) occupied by the Italian 
Legation. No. 916 is the Hotel Gordon (p. 5). No. 930, 
at S. W. cor. of K St., is the former home of Major George 
M. Wheeler, U. S. A., who conducted the surveys west of 
the looth meridian. Opposite, at S. E. cor. of K St., is the 
home of the widow of General Anderson, hero of Fort 
Sumpter ; it is a conspicuous structure of red brick, on the 
^Renaissance order, designed by Richardson, Boston. No. 
looi, on N. E. cor., is the residence of ex-Senator Eugene 
Hale of Maine. No. 1006 was formerly (1906) the Cuban 
Legation. No. 1013 formerly the Brazilian Embassy and later 
the Chilean Embassy is now the residence of Senator Joseph 
S. Frelinghuysen. No. 1017 was until 1916 the Venezuelan 
Legation. 

I On the N. E. cor. of L St. is the former home of Senator 
JRedfield Proctor of Vermont. No. 1103 was formerly (1894) 
the Portuguese Legation. No. 1125. built by the widow of 
George M. Pullman, is now (1922) the Russian Embassy. 
-,jNo. 1 155, former home of Senator Elihu Root of New York. 

*The National Geographic Society (PI. Ill— D3— 

iNo. 82) occupies the greater part of the western block between 
!'L and M Sts. It includes two buildings: i (at the S. W. cor. 
of M St.) The Hubbard Memorial Hall, erected in 1902 by the 
Hheirs of the late Gardiner Greene Hubbard, first President of 
I'lthe Society. This building, which the society soon outgrew, 
!|is now occupied by the Board Rooms and Library; 2. The new 
[\Admi71istration Building, immediately adjoining on the S., a 



200 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

white brick structure with hmestone trim, on the ItaHan 
Renaissance order, erected in 1913 at a cost of $125,000 (Arthur 
B. Healon, architect). 

History. The National Geographic Society was founded in Wash- 
ington, January, 1888, by a small group of explorers and students, 
with the declared purpose "to promote the increase and diffusion of 
geographic knowledge." For the first ten yeaTS the membership was 
limited to technical geographers. The organization, however, was 
ambitious to extend its activities in two directions: i. by arousing 
a widespread interest in geography, both in schools and among the 
general public; 2. by equipping and sending out from time to time 
scientific exploring parties. Lack of funds held these aims in abey- 
ance until in 1899 the suggestion was made and promptly acted on, 
to establish a National Geographic Magazine, to be devoted niainly_ to 
pictures and articles acquired through the society's exploring parties. 
At the same time, conditions of membership in the society were 
radically modified, making eligible practically all persons interested, 
on the sole condition that the candidate shall be nontinated by at 
least one member. The remarkable success of the new venture 
has resulted in a membership of over 350,000, and an income of 
$850,000; the magazine has over two million readers; while after 
all the expenses of its costly production are paid, there is still an 
annual surplus of between $50,000 and $60,000 available for exploration 
purposes. 

No. 1201 i6th St. is the new home of the National Edu- 
cational Associati-on, a society dating from 1857, which in its 
early days accomplished the estaWishment of the Bureau of 
Education in the Interior Department, and is now furthering 
the project of a Federal Department of Education. 

No. 1232 i6th St. was the home of the late Eliphalet 
Frazer Andrews, founder of the Corcoran School of Art 
(p. 184) of which he w^as director 1877- 1902. He painted 
several of ijhe portraits in the White House, including those of : 
Martha Washington, Dolly ]\Iadison, Jefferson and Garfield. 

Scott Circle, situated at the intersection of Massachu- 
setts and Rhode Island Aves.. i6th and N Sts., occupies an 
area of about one acre. In the center, facing S., stands the 
Equestrian Statue of Lieut. -Gen. Winfield Scott, in bronze, 
heroic size, modeled by H. K. Brozvn, and cast in Philadel- 
phia from cannon taken in the Mexican campaign. This 
monument was erected in 1874 at a cost of $20,000 for the 
statue, and $25,000 for the pedestal, which consists of five 
huge granite blocks from Cape Ann. 

On the E. side of Scott Circle stands the semi-circular 
^Memorial to Christian S. F. Hahnemann, founder of homeo- 
pathy. It consists of a spacious and lofty exedra, \yith a 
central niche and canopy containing on a pedestal a seated 
bronze statue of Hahnemann. On the base is inscribed the 
Latin maxim embodying the fundamental principle of homeo- 
pathy: Similia similibus curcntur ("Likes are cured by likes")- 
To R. and L. are four bronze bas-reliefs depicting Hahnemann 



iSIXTEENTH ST. TO PINEY BRANCH BRIDGE 201 

as: a. The Student; b. The Chemist; c.. The Teacher; d. The 
Practicing Physician. The bas-reHefs and statue are by 
C. H. Niehaus. The monument is the gift of The American 
Institute of Homeopathy (1900). 

Opposite, on the W. side of Scott Circle, is a monu- 
ment to Daniel Webster (1782-1852). It consists of a full- 
length figure in bronze, heroic size, surmounting a pedestal 
bearing on E. and W. fagades two bronze tablets in high re- 
lief, depicting Webster: i. Addressing the Senate; and 
inscribed, "Liberty and Union, now and forever, one and in- 
separable"; 2. Addressing an out-door gathering of his con- 
stituents, and inscribed, "Our country, our whole country, 
and nothing but our country." The bronzes were designed 
by G. Trcritanove, and cast by Fratclli Galli, Florence, Italy. 
The monument was the gift (1900) of Stilson Hutchens 
who, like Webster, was a native of New Hampshire. 

At N. E. dor. of i6th St. and Rhode Island Ave., No. 1301. 
is a red brick ibuilding reputed to be one of the largest private 
i dwellings in Washington. It has had many distinguished oc- 
, cupants, including the Chinese Legation, George von L. Meyer, 
i Secretary of the Navy under Roosevelt, Hamilton Fish,- and 
i Francis Burton Harrison, former Governor of the Philippines. 
No. 1325, former residence of Rev. Alexander Mackay-Smith, 
* one-time rector of St. John's. No. 1327 is the Colombian 
] Legation. No. 1333, S. E. cor. of O St.. residence of Elihu 
I Root, while Secretary of State. 

; The First Baptist Church occupies the opposite, or S. W. 

cor. of O St. It is a red brick structure on the Italian 
Renaissance order, with an imposing square campanile 140 ft. 
!l high (erected 1890: JV. Bruce Gray, architect). 

The First Baptist Church was organized March 7th, 1802, with 

six members. The first church edifice was erected at the S. W. coi 

1 of I and 19th Sts. In 1833 the congregation moved to a new building 

,] on the E. side of 10th St., between E and F Sts., the site of tho 

' historic Ford's Theatre (p. 145). 

I No. 1401, N. E. cor. of O St., was occupied by Vice- 
President James S. Sherman ; also for a time by Russell A. 
Alger when Secretary of War under McKinley. No. 1412, 
residence of John McElroy, editor and author ; served in 
1 the Civil War; his Andersonvillc, published 1879, reached 
' a sale of 600,000 copies. 

., The Administration Building of the Carnegie Institution 
j'j of Washington (PI. II — Di) occupies the S. E, cor. of i6th 
I'l and P Sts. The design of the building is an adaptation of 
I the Corinthian order, with an imposing portico consisting of 
j a double row of Corinthian columns. The material is Indiana 
'.limestone (erected 1908). 



202 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

The Carnegie Institution of Washington was founded January 28, 
1902, by Andrew Carnegie with an endowment of ten millions in s% 
registered bonds, to which /the donor added two more millions in 1907. 
The purpose of the Institution, as set forth in the Articles of Incorpora- 
tion is: "To encourage, in the broadest and most liberal manner, 
investigation, research and discovery, and the application of knowledge 
to the improvement of mankind." 

The exceptionally broad provisions of these Articles have_ made 
it possible for the Institution, not only to establish a series of 
permanent departments for investigation along lines that have suc- 
cessively commended themselves, but also to conduct from time to 
time special temporary investigations, and to enroll into the service 
of the Institution a corps of specialists whose work gives promise 
of exceptional value. Ten permanent departments have already been 
organized, and cover the following fields: i. Botanical Research 
(Tucson, Arizona) ; 2. Economics and Sociology (Worcester, Mass.) ; 
3. Experimental Evolution (Cold Spring Harbor, L. I.); 4. Geophysical 
Laboratory (Washington D. C, 441); 5. Historical Researcili (Wash- 
ington, D. C); 6. Marine Laboratory (Dry Tortugas, Fla.); 7. Meridian 
Astronomy (Albany, N. Y. ; 8. Solar Observatory (Pasadena, Cal.); 
9. Terrestrial Magnetism (Washington, D. C.) ; 10. Nutrition 
Laboratory (Boston, Mass.). 

Opposite, at S. W. cor. of P St., are the offices of the 
Alien [Property Custodian. 

No. 1500, N. W. cor. of P St., yellow brick building, 
former home of Senator Joseph B. Foraker of Ohio. No. 
1513," is the Persian Legation. No. 1528, former residence of 
Senator William A. Clark of Montana. 

The Foundry M. E. Church, at the S. W. cor. of Church 
St., is a gray limestone structure in perpendicular Gothic, 
erected in 1903-04 (Appleton P. Clark, of Washington, archi- 
tect). The laying of the corner-stone and attendant services, 
originally planned for an earlier date, were postponed until 
Saturday and Sunday, June 27-28, 1903 (June 28th being 
Wesley's birthday). The church contains three large stained- 
glass windows, by /. & R. Lamb, N. Y. i. On South, The 
Holy Family; 2. On North, The Angel and Women at the 
Empty Tomb ; 3. On East, over entrance, The Arisen Christ. 

History. The Foundry Church has a unique origin. Henry Foxhall 
(1758-1823), an Englishman, who, for a time had been a partner in 
the Eagle Iron-works (Phila.) of Robert Morris (signer of the 
Declaration of Independence), removed in the early years of the 19th 
centtrry to Georgetown, and there established the only foundry south 
of Philadelphia, At the outbreak of the War of 1812 he obtained the 
government contract for guns and ammunition, and furnished an 
important part of the cannon used during the war. 

When the news came that the English were marching upon Wash- 
ington, Foxhall naturally feared that because of his nationality his 
foundries would be the special mark of British vengence. Being an 
attendant at the Georgetown M. E. Church (to which all Methodists 
in Washington had to come, having no church of their own), Foxhall 
made a vow that if the British spared his foundry he would erect a 
church of his faith in Washington. As the British approached, burning 
and pillaging, a violent storm broke, accompanied by a cyclonic wind, 
and the British host hurried on to the Capitol, leaving the foundry 
unscathed. 



SIXTEENTH ST. TO PINEY BRANCH BRIDGE 203 

In accordance with his vow Foxhall, that same year, gave a plot 
of land situated on the N. E. cor. of 15th and G Sts., and erected upon 
it a substantial brick edifice, the Foundry Church, professedly named 
for the historic foundry in England where John Wesley held services 
but presumably with Foxhall's own foundry in mind. The church 
was twice rebuilt and enlarged, first in 1848, and again in 1864: The 
latter was demolished in 1902 to give place to the Colorado Building. 
So great had been the rise in value of this site that the purchase price 
more than paid for the present grounds and edifice. Consequently, the 
congregation can still feel that their new church remains the gift of 
Henry Foxhall. 

No. 1633 i6th St. is occupied by the Ecuador Legation, 
The *Chiirch of the New Jerusalem, at'the S. E. cor. of i6ch 
and Corcorcan Sts., is a graceful structure of Bedford lime- 
stone, designed on the English perpendicular order, slightly 
modified by French Gothic influence as seen, for instance, in 

! the gargoyles. Among architects it is known as the "Church 
of the Magdalen Tower," because of its resemblance to the 

! famous tower over the main entrance to the Magdalen Col- 
lege, in Oxford, England. Note the rose wreath carved in 
the moulding of the Bride's Door, on the Corcorcan St. side. 
Adjoining the church, on the S., is the Sunday School and 
Parish House Building, the fagade of which, being of dressed 
stone, is thrown into prominence by contrast with the rough 
finish of the main edifice. Architect, Prof. H. Langford 
Warren, head of the department of architecture. Harvard 

j University; constructing overseer, Paul J. Pels. 

I History. It is interesting to remember that the New Church in 

' America traces its organization back to Maryland and Virginia. The 
( first congregation was formed in Baltimore in 1792, while many prom- 
[ inent Virginians, including Col. Robert Carter, Dr. John J. Cabell and 

Lord Thomas Fairfax, were instrumental in disseminating the doc- 
^ trines. George Washington's library included a number of Sweden- 
ij borg's works. 

'< The Washington Society of the New Jerusalem, however, was not 

' founded until 1846. It has had six pastors including the present it:- 

cumhent, the Rev. Paul Sperry. The earlier church edifice, situated 
I on Capitol Hill, was destroyed by fire in 1889. The present National 

New Church was begun soon after the installation of the fifth pastor, 

Rev. Frank Sewell, and was dedicated May 3d, 1896. 

The church contains some interesting windows, designed 

ii to carry out symbolically the whole history of man's fall and 

I redemption, from Genesis to the Apocalypse. The series 

ii begins with the window at the W. end of the nave, above the 

entrance, portraying the Creation ; the Works of the Six Days 

being symbolized by globes carried by six angels. Beneath is 

the Angel with the Flaming Sword who has expelled Adam 

and Eve, and is guarding the gate of Paradise. In the upper 

panel is the Lord, represented as a Youth, the Eternal Logos 

or Word, "by whom all things were made that are made." 

From studios of /. & R. Lamb, New York. 



204 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

The nave contains six windows of which the northern 
three will eventually be devoted to Old Testament prophets, 
and the southern three to Qld Testament kings. The only 
one yet installed is the David window^, made by MacDonald 
of Boston, representing David as a youth playing the harp 
before Saul. 

In the N. transept is the Gospel window, consisting of 
three panels representing (W. to E.) : i. Christ the Good 
Shepherd ; 2. Christ the Comforter ; 3. Christ the Teacher 
of Little Children. Above and below are some sixteen small 
panels containing scenes depictmg the life of Christ, and 
including: the Adoration of the Magi; the Flight into Egypt; 
the boy Christ in the Temple ; the Miracle of Loaves and 
Fishes; and the Last Supper, designed by Ford & Brooks, 
Boston. 

The S. transept window, to be installed in the autumn of 
1917, will depict the Resurrection and Ascension. In the 
chancel are seven narrow^ windows, which have been placed 
as memorials of ministers prominent in the history of the 
New Church in America (L. to R.) : the Rev. Messrs. Hay- 
den, Hibbard, Silver, Giles, Fox, De Charmes and John 
Worcester. These windows are emblematic of the seven 
promises of the Spirit to the Angels of the Seven Churches 
{Revelations i, 2-3) ; i. Ephesus; 2. Smyrna; 3. Pergamos ; 4. 
Thyatira ; 5. Sardis ; 6. Philadelphia ; 7. Laodicea. From studio 
10 f Ford & Brooks, Boston. 

Around the frieze of the church, bordered with an an- 
cient Gothic decoration, runs the legend {Revelations xxi, 2.) 
"And I, John, saw the Holy City, New Jerusalem, coming down 
from God, out of Heaven, prepared as a bride adorned for 
her husband." 

The Western and Chancel Windows were made from 
designs by Mrs. John H. James, daughter of the late pastor, 
Rev. Frank Sewell. 

No, 1720 i6th St. was formerly the residence of Associate 
Justice Henry B. Brown. 

The *Scottish Rite Temple (PI. Ill— D3— No. 76) 
occupying upper half of block on E. side of i6th St., between 
R and S Sts., was erected in 1916, at a cost of approximately 
$2,Gdo,odo, by the thirty-third degree Masons, the highest order 
of the great masonic body. This beautiful structure, said to 
be reminiscent of the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus, one of the 
seven Wonders of the Ancient World, was designed by John 
Russell Pope. At a competitive exhibition held in New York 
in I'cbruary, 1917, by the Architectural League of America, 



SIXTEENTH /ST. TQ PINEY BRANCH BRIDGE 205 

this Temple was decreed to be the finest buildmg erected during 
the previous year, and a gold medal of honor was awarded 
the architect. 

The primary purpose of its erection was to afford a 
meeting place for the National Conventions of the order, 
which occur only once in two years. The building, however, 
is open to the public on week days. A page will be as- 
signed to show visitors through the Temple proper, the 
banquet hall, library and committee roo'ms. 

The Temple stands on an eminence several feet above 
the street level, and is approached by four successive flights 
of steps, respectively three, five, seven and nine in num- 
ber, — which, like almost all the measurements, decorations 
and inscriptions throughout the building, have symbolic signifi- 
cance. 

The edifice itself consists of an almost perfect square, 
having a frontage of 2175^ ft., and a depth of 212 ft. Sur- 
mounting the basement story is a square Greek Temple, sur- 
rounded by a colonnade of Ionic columns thirty-three ft. 
in height, ten of which form the western or main fagade. 
By adding the additional nine on the N. and S. sides, and 
the five (three of them engaged columns) on the rear, we 
have again the mystic number thirty-three. Above the en- 
tablature and cornice, which encircle the colonnade, the Temple 
terminates in a pyramidal roof. On massive plinths, to R. 
and L. oif main approach, are two sphinxes (by A. A. Wcin- 
mann) symbolic of Divine Wisdom and Power. The one 
is depicted with open eyes, and the other with eyes closed. 
On the plinths are inscriptions in Egyptian hieroglyphics 
and Phoenician characters. Before the main door, let into 
the pavement, in copper bronze, are two flaming swords, and 
, between them the following inscription : 

I "THE TEMPLE OF THE SUPREME COUNCIL OF 
THE THIRTY-THIRD DEGREE AND LAST DEGREE 
OF THE ANCIENT AND ACCEPTED SCOTTISH RITE 
OF FREE-MASONRY FOR THE SOUTHERN JURIS- 
DICTION OF THE UNITED STATES. ERECTED TO 
GOD AND DEDICATED TO THE SERVICE OF 
HUMANITY. SALVE FRATER." 

Carved on the frieze, over the entrance, is the inscrip- 
tion: "Freemasonry builds its Temples in the Hearts of 
Men and among Nations." A plaque on the Great Door 
bears an oblong square containing a triangle, in the center 
of which is inscribed the number 33. 



2o6 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

The Great Door admits the visitor into the Atrium, or 
entrance hall, occupying the central portion of the main story. 
It is 64 ft. square by 25 ft. high. On the N. and S. sides 
are a series of four fluted columns of polished dark green 
granite. The door on L. opens into the apartments of the 
Sovereign Grand Commander. The door on the R. leads into 
the apartments of the Secretary General. Both of these 
apartments are finished in Russian walnut. 

At the rear of the Atrium a double flight of stairs curves 
upward in the eastern elliptical extension, to the Great 
Chamber in the upper story. This chamber forms a perfect 
cube of "J}) ft., measuring to the top of the perpendicular 
sides. It is surmounted by a dome which rises 100 ft. from 
the floor below. The chamber is lighted by three great 
arched windows on the N., W. and S. sides, each divided by 
two columns of green granite, the lower portion of each 
being screened by a tracer}^ of intertwined bronze serpents. 

Extending around the Temple hall is a frieze of black 
marble, bearing the inscription : 

"FROM THE OUTER DARKNESS OF IGNORANCE 
THROUGH THE SHADOW OF OUR EARTHLY LIFE 
WINDS THE BEAUTIFUL PATH OF INITIATION 
UNTO THE DIVINE LIGHT OF THE HOLY ALTAR." 

In the center of the Temple stands the Great Altar, a 
solid block of black marble, veined with white, with four 
horns at the respective corners. Let into the pavement around 
the altar is the inscription : 

"FROAI THE LIGHT OF THE DIVINE WORD, 
THE LOGOS, COMES THE WISDOAI OF LIFE, THE 
GOAL OF INITIATION." 

Concealed in the dome is a great organ, 'which can be 
played from the floor of the Main Temple. 

From here we descend to the Library of the Supreme 
Council, 33c?. Degree, in the S. W. cor. of main floor, with 
stacks in the eastern ellipses under the stairs. This library, 
now containing over 100,000 volumes and pamphlets, dates 
from a resolution passed by the Supreme Council in 1878, 
appropriating money for the purchase of books. General 
Albert Pike, who was the Grand Commander, 1859-91, gave 
his own collection of over 5,000 volumes ; and thanks to this 
and many other subsequent donations, the library is today 
said to be the richest and most complete collection of the 
literature of Freemasonry contained in any Masonic or other 
librarv in the world. 



SIXTEENTH ST. TO PINKY BRANCH BRIDGE 207 

In the stack-room, ranged along the curve of the inner 
wall, are table cases containing the Albert Pike Memorial 
Collection, including the General's various insignia and 
trophies, manuscripts, gifts, and personal relics of widely 
varied nature. Note especially the last lines written by 
him just before his death, and the pencil with which he wrote 
them. 

A marble staircase at the rear of the entrance hall leads 
to a great Banquet Hall in the basement story, filling the 
entire space beneath the Atrium. On the walls are por- 
traits of former Grand Commanders. On N. and S. art 
spacious committee rooms which, like the banquet hall, are 
richly finished in carved woodwork. 

The present Grand Commander is Charles E. Rosenbaum. 

No. 1813 i6th St., residence of Francis E. Leupp, author 

and journalist (has published The Man Roosevelt. Biography 

of William H. Taft, The Indian and his Problem, etc.).^ 

No. 1821, former residence of General Rufus Saxton, U. S. A. 

No. 1923, residence of Associate Justice Willis Van Deventer 

■ (formerly occupied by Justice David J. Brewer). 

1 Sixteenth St. is intersected at U St. by New Hampshire 

j Ave. At N. E. cor. of these streets, No. 2001 New Hampshire 

' Ave., is the Congressional Club, the leading women's club of 

Washington, organized in May, 1908, and incorporated by 

special act of Congress. It forms the center of social activity 

:| for the congressional women, those eligible for membership 

( being the wives of Senators, Representatives, Justices of the 

i Supreme Court and Members of the Cabinet (or a daughter 

< or sister, if she presides over the household). The wives, 

-i respectively, of the President, Vice-President and Speaker of 

the House are honorary members. The land was given by the 

wife of the late Sen. Henderson, of Missouri, and the club 

! house erected in 1914, at a cost of $30,000. At the intersection 

,, with New Hampshire Ave. also stands the Evangelical 

I Lutheran Church of the Epiphany. 

; No. 2100 i6th St., N. W. cor. of V St., residence of 

-j former Justice Charles Evans Hughes, when nominated for 
\ the Pre9idency in 1916. It is now occupied by John Wingate 
- Weeks, Secretary of War. No. 2108, a notable dwelling on the 
, Mission order, with spacious grounds, formerly occupied by 
the Argentine Legation. 

No. 2200 Sixteenth St., at the intersection of Florida 
Ave., is the former home of the late Senator John B. Hen- 
derson (who drafted the 13th Amendment abolishing slavery). 
It is popularly known as "Henderson Castle." 



2o8 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Sixteenth St. here ascends the grade, known historically 
as Meridian Hill, because the street follows the meridian 
line of the original Ten-mile Square (see Introduction). On 
this slope stood the cabin of the late Joachim Miller, 
"Poet of the Sierras." It was situated a little W. and not, 
as often stated, directly in the line of i6th St., for the latter 
was cut through the hill some twenty years before Miller 
located his cabin there. In recent years the cabin was 
removed to Rock Creek Park (p. 436). 

The recently laid-out Meridian Hill Park, now in course of 
completion, occupies the equivalent of four city squares on 
E. side of i6th St., extending through to 15th St. and north 
from W to Euclid St. The park contains eight entrances, 
the principal one, with grand staircase leading to central 
terrace, on i6th St., opposite Crescent St. (laid out under 
supervision of Col. William W. Harts, by George Burnham, 
the present architect-in-chief of outdoor Washington). 

Space has been left for a large sun-dial which will mark the line 
of meridian of old Washington. It will consist of a stone exedra 
serving as background for a huge stone globe supported on the 
shoulders of a group of bronze figures, and surrounded Iw an equatorial 
band of bronze, marking the hours of the day. In the lower section 
of the Park, will also stand a memorial monument, already approved 
by Congress, of President Buchanan, for which purpose $100,000 was 
provided in the will of the late Harriot Lane Johnson. 

Two notable statues have recently been unveiled in this park, that 
of the poet Dante stands on the E. side of the park, half way down 
the southern slope. It is a colossal bronze figure, a replica of the one 
erected in New York City, and was given by the Italian Societies of 
America. Ettore Ximencs, sculptor; pedestal designed by Whitney 
Warren. On the brow of the terrace, facing S., stands the Equestri-an 
Statue of Joan of Arc, the gift of French women in New York City 
to the Women of America. It is an exact copy of the statue by Paul 
Dubois, which still stands, unmarred by the war, in front of the Rheims 
cathedral, and which art critics regard as one of the finest eciuestrian 
statues of modern times. The copy was executed under direction of 
the French ^Minister of Education and Fine Arts. Pedestal designed by 
McKim, Mead & White. 

On the high ground opposite Meridian Park, at No. 1624 
Crescent Place (a short street curving to the S. W.), is the 
home of former Ambassador to France. Henry W^hite. Here 
General Joffre, M. Viviani and other members of the French 
Commission were quartered in Alay, 1917. 

No. 2400 i6th St. is a large apartment house; Justice 
Willis Van Deventer, of the Supreme Court, and several 
Senators reside here. It also contains the offices of the 
Panama Legation. No. 2460 is the French Embassy. No. 2600, 
home of former Secretary of the Treasur}-, Frankl'.n Mac- 
Veagh. No. 2630 is the Cuban Legation. No. 2640 is the 
Polish Legation. It was formerly the home of Mr. Pullman, 
inventor of the Pullman Car, 



NEW YORK AVE. TO THE NAVAL HOSPITAL 209 

At No. 2829 i6th St., King Allbert and Queen Elizabeth 
of Belgium and their son, the Duke of Brabant, were the guests 
of Breckinridge Long on their visit to Washington in Oct., 
1919. Later it was for a time the Mexican Legation. 

A few rods further N., where Harvard St, intersects 
Columbia Road, is the nearest point from which to reach the 
eastern entrance to the Zoological Park (p. 444). Here, at 
the junction of i6tih and Harvard Sts., is now in course of 
erection the new church edifice of All Souls Unitarian Church, 
successor of the one recently demolished at the S. E. cor. of 
14th and L Sts. 

About one mile N., i6th St. is carried by "^Pincy Branch 
Bridge across a deep ravine, through which Piney Branch 
flows S. W., to empty into Rock Creek. _ The bridge was 
designed by IV. J. Douglas, Engineer of Bridges for the Dis- 
trict of Columbia. It is 272 ft. long by 65 ft. wide, and the 
roadway is about 60 ft. above the stream. The finish is two- 
colored concrete, the main expanse of the spandril walls con- 
sisting of a concrete made of gray stone dust, while the con- 
crete of the trim is of yellow sand. Flanking the approaches 
are two pairs of bronze Tigers, modeled by A. Phimister 
Proctor. 

V. New York Avenue from the White House to 
the Naval Hospital 

New York Avenue, interrupted by the Treasury Building 
and White House grounds, continues S,W\ from 17th St., 
midway between E and F Sts, Passing on S.W. cor. the 
Corcoran Art Gallery (p. 171) we reach, on opposite s'de of 
avenue, the recently completed and admirably equipped 
Central Dispensary and Emergency Hospital, a nine-story 
edifice designed by Nathan C. Wyeih. 

Facing the hospital is the new Navy Annex. 

*T}ie Octagon House (PI. II— B-5), one of the most 
charming examples surviving of the i8th century type of 
Colonial town house, stands at the N. E. corner of 
New York Ave. and i8th St. It was designed for Col. John 
Tayloe in 1798, by William Thornton (p, 51), and was 
finished in 1800, 

Col. Tayloe was reputed to be the richest Virginipn of his time. 
His estate at Mt. Airy was the largest in the Old Dominion, and his 
500 slaves included artisans of every class. Among his distinguished 
friends was Washington, whose advice induced him to abandon his 
intention of settling in Philadelphia, and to build instead in the new 
Capital. Washington took a keen interest in the Octagon House, and 
frequently visited the site during its erection, but died before it was 
completed. From 1800 until the death of Col. Tayloe, in 1828, the 
Octagon House was famous for its hospitality. Among its distinguished 



NiE,W YORK AVE. TO THE NAVAL HOSPITAL 211 

guests were Presidents Jefferson, Madison, Monroe and John Quincy 
Adams; also Decatur, Porter, Clay, Calhoun, Randolph and Lafayette. 

After the destruction of the White House during the British occu- 
pation of 1814, President and Mrs. Madison occupied the Octagon 
House for the greater part of a year, at the invitation of Col. Tayloe, 
who was one of the many leading Washingtonians that promptly offered 
their homes for a temporary Executive Mansion. During the Civil 
War the house was contiscated and used as a hospital for wounded 
soldiers. Subsequently it became a Seminary for Young Ladies. Within 
recent years it has been occupied and carefully restored by the Amer- 
ican Institute of Architects, which is contemplating the erection of 
an extension in the rear, to accommodate the Society's business offices, 
and leave the whole of the original building free for exhibition 
purposes. 

The American Institute of Architects was founded February 23d, 
1857, for the avowed purpose of the advancement of architecture, a 
profession then scantily appreciated by the American public. The 
Civil War interrupted the meetings of the Society until 1864; and 
from that date until 1889 the progress of the Institute was slow. 
Nevertheless, in that period it founded 11 chapters, formed the 
nucleus of a library and established a schedule of fees for archi- 
tectural services. In 1889 the Institute consolidated with a younger 
organization, the Western Association of Architects, founded in 1884 
by a group of energetic young men of the Middle West, which 
rapidly acquired a large membership. Since then the growth of the 
Institute has been rapid, and the total membership has risen from 
338 to more than 1000. In 1898 the Institute first leased the Octagon, 
and opened it on the occasion of the convention held that year, at 
which a new Constitution and By-laws were adopted. In 1902 the 
Institute purchased the Octagon House, through the initiative of Charles 
F. McKim, then President. 

Since 1900 the Institute has to its credit numerous important 
achievements. It initiated the movement for systematic improvement 
of American cities; secured the appointment of a Commission to 
report on the development of Waishington City; prevented the 
remodeling of the White House and extension of the Cai)i;ol on lines 
which would have destroyed their beauty; and preserved the Mall 
by demonstrating that an improper location of the Agricultural 
Building would destroy the future artistic development of the city. 
It also aided in the establishment of the American Academy in 
Rome; and has initiated a movement to establish a post-graduate 
school of the Fine Arts in Washington. It gave in 1907 its first 
Gold Medal for distinguished achievement in architecture to Sir 
Aston Webb, the noted English architect, thus establishing a prece- 
dent of honoring those who have distinguished themselves in mat art. 

The main fagade of the Octagon House stands diag- 
onally facing the street corner, with a large central cir- 
cular tower and two extensive wings running back respec- 
tively along New York Ave. and i8th St. The material 
is red brick with trimmings of Aquia Creek sandstone. The 
interior arrangement is quite simple, the main floor con- 
sisting of a large circular vestibule, 20 ft. in diameter, open- 
ing upon a central hallway with curving stairs and a well 
open to the roof ; and on right and left respectively of this 
hallway the drawing-room and dining-room, each measur- 
ing 20 X 30 ft. The upper floors follow subsitantially the same 
arrangements, excepting that there are more subdivisions. 



212 RIDER'S WASHINGTOiV 

The circular vestibule is at present used as an exhibi- 
tion gallery of portraits of former presidents of the Insti- 
tute and other distinguished architects. Opposite the en- 
trance, at east of rear door, is a bronze memorial tablet 
inscribed: "1857-1807. The American Institute of Archi- 
tects on the fiftieth Anniversary of its Foundation places 
this Tablet in honor of its Founders and of those who 
joined with them to frame its Constitution and By-Laws." 
Then follows a list of the founders, which among others, 
includes the names of Richard Upjohn, Leopold Eidlitz, 
Thomas U. Walter, James Renwick and Richard Morris Hunt. 

Above the tablet hangs the original plaster model of the Society's 
gold medal, designed in 1907 by A. A. Weinman. To R. and L. of 
rear door are alcoves occupied by two small quaintly shaped stoves, 
said to date back to Col. Tayloe's occupancy. The portraits, from R. 
to L., beginning on W. of north door, are as follows: i. Richard 
Upjohn, President of the Institute 1857-78, by A. Milo Upjohn; 2. 
Richard Morris Hunt (bas-relief medallion); 3. William S. Eames, 
President 1904-05, by Mtiller; 4. Ceorge B. Post, by A. E. Foringcr; 
after E. H. Blashfield ; 5. Walter Cook, President 1912-13; 6. G. r>erja- 
niin Henry Latrobe (1764-1820); 7. George B. Post (bas-relief medal- 
lion). 

The visitor should note, as an example of the careful workman- 
ship of this house, that all the work of this circular vestibule coin- 
cides with the circumference of the tower, the doors, window sash 
and glass all being made on the circle. 

The central hall, even larger than the vestibule, has 
beneath the first landing of the curving stairs, which as- 
cend on the east, a north door opening on the old garden 
enclosed by quaint brick walls. The origmal drawing-room, 
now used by the Institute for board-meetings and recep- 
tions, is entered from the hall, on the E. It was here, in 
front of the mantel at the N. E. end of the room, that Mrs. 
Dolly Madison used to stand while receiving her guests ; 
and the most brilliant series of receptions during her whole 
reign as Mistress of the White House were those of the so- 
called "Peace Year," 1814-15, which were held in this draw- 
ing-room. 

The original dining-room, on the opposite side of the 
hall, is at present occupied by the. Archaeological Institute 
of America. Here the general work of the Archaeological 
Institute is carried on, its records kept, and the plans and 
photographs of its Schools, sites of excavations, etc., are 
exhibited. 

The Archaeological Institute of America, founded in 1879 and 
incorporated in 1906, now includes 50 affiliated societies, 40 in the 
United States and 10 in Canada, with a total membership of over 
3100. Besides its many other activities, it publishes the American 
Journal of Archaeology. 

The circular room on the second floor, directly above 
the entrance vestibule, now the office of the .Secretary of 1 



NEW YORK AVE. TO THE ,NAVAL HOiSPITAL 213 

the Institute of Architects, was once the private study of 
President Madison; and here on February i8th, 1815, the 
President signed the Treaty of Ghent, which ended the war 
of 1812. 

The rooms above the old dining-room are now occu- 
pied by ofhces of the American Academy in Rome and the 
American Federation of Arts, an organization dating from 
1909 and already comprising upward of 200 Chapters. The 
other rooms on this floor are occupied by various offices 
of the Institute. 

Opposite the Octagon House, at S.E. cor. of New York 
Ave. an.d 18th St., is the site where, more than a century ago, 
Dr. William Thornton had a city garden. 

W^est of the Octagon House is the new ^Department of 
the Interior Building (PI. TI — B4), occupying the entire block 
bounded by E and F, i8th and 19th Sts. The structure is 
approximately 400 ft. long by 392 ft. wide, is E-shaped, and is. 
six stories high on the principal or F St. fagade (the limit of 
height under D. C. regulations for residential sections), but is 
increased to seven stories in the rear (E St.) by dropping grade. 
On the E St, front, midway between the wings, are entrance 
driveways leading down to the two great courts, the pave- 
ment of which is at basement level. Accordingly the court 
elevations' show eight stories. The building contains 500,000 
sq. ft.- of ofifice space, divided into 737 rooms, with accom- 
modations for upward of 1700 employees. 

The Secretary of the Interior's duties include supervision of the 
General Land Office. Reclamation Service, Ceological Survey, Bureau 
cf Mines, Office of Indian Affairs, Patent Office. Bureau of Pensions, 
Bureau of Education. National Park Service and certain hospitals and 
other institutions within the District. He also exercises certain powers 
and duties in relation to Alaska and Hawaii; and is authorized to 
I adjust and pay claims against the U. S. Fuel Administration audi alfo 
icilaims filed under the War Minerals Relief Act. 

The Bureaus of Pensions and of Education occupy the 
iPension iBuilding (p. 139) and the Patent Office also has 
its own home (p. 142). The remaining divisions are all 
|housed in the new Interior Building, as follows : 

I I. Thq Geological Siirz'ey occupies almost the entire F St. front, 

logether with the central wing, pressroom wing and half of each of 

the two-story southern links. Its activities include the making of a 

geologic map of the United States, an annual collection of statistics of 

nineral iproduction, and investigations relating to surface and underground 

l.vaters. z. The General .Laud Office occupies the entire west wing, 

|xcepting the top fioor. 3. The Reclamation Service occupies the top 

I, oor of the west wing. Its duties comprise the survey, construction and 

I'peration of irrigation works in the arid states. 4. The Bureau of 

niucs has the lower stories of the east wing, and half of the easterly 

nithern link. 5. The Bureau of Indian Affairs occupies the third and 

iourth floors of the north wing. 

|] 



214 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

The offices of the Secretary of the Interior take up the 
remaining two upper Hoors of the north wing. The Public 
Office is notable for its artistic finish, being wainscotted from 
floor to ceiling in paneled English oak, with a molded ribbed 
plaster ceiling, recessed windows, and simple Tudor mantel, 
with paneled oak overmantel. The library and auditorium 
(the latter having a seating capacity of 300) are separate 
buildings projected into the courts, and accessible from the 
public corridor on the first. In the south part of the east 
court is the press-room, containing the great color presses 
of the map-making division of the Geological Survey. 

Opposite the Interior Building, at the N.W. cor. of i8th 
and F St., is a dwelling occupied successively by Chief Justice 
John Alarshall, Richard Wallach, Mayor of Washington dur- 
ing 1861-68, and Chief Justice Melville W. Fuller. 

One block further N. on i8th St., at S.E. cor. of G St.. 
are the building and tennis-courts of the Young Men's 
Christian Association (PI. II — C4). 

The library in this building is no longer the private property of the 
Association, but constitutes one of the branches of the Washington 
Public Library (p. 226), and is open to the ipublic. The tennis-courts 
on the corner lot occupy the site of an historic residence, a large brick 
building erected and occupied by Edward Everett when Secretary of 
State under Fillmore. Subsequently it was successively occupied by 
Jefferson Davis while Secretary of War under Pierce, and Jacob 
Thompson, Secretary of the Interior under Buchanan. During the 
Civil War it was used as Quartermaster's Department of the Army 
in charge of General Tucker. Next it became the home of Henry A. 
Wise. U. S. X., son-in-law of Everett; and lastly was rented by the 
Medical Department of the Navy, 
i Another old landmark, recently demolished, was the Wirt mansion, 

which stood a few rods E. of the Everett house. It was first occupied 
by Tobias Lear, Washington's private Secretary. Later it became the 
home of the eminent jurist William Wirt, who lived here twelve years 
while Attorney-General under Monroe and the younger Adams. 

West on G St., No.j.qi4^s a venerable dwelling built 
about 1802 by CommodoreTruxton. and later occupied by 
Lewis Cass. In recent years it became the home of Major- 
General A. W. Greely, best known for his Arctic exploration. 

No. 2024 G St. was the home of Daniel S. Lamont. 

Opposite, occupying most of the block from 20th to 21st 
St., is George Washington University, one of the oldest and 
best equipped schools of higher learning at the Capital. It 
mcludes a preparatory school, departments of under 
graduate and postgraduate academic studies, the Corcoran 
Scientific School, and Schools of Law, Medicine and 
(Dentistry. It is also affiliated with the College of 
Veterinary Medicine, and the National College of Pharmacy. 
The names of many prominent members of the Smithsonian 
Institution and Geological Survey, as well as officers distin- i 



PENNSYLVANIA AVE. TO ROCK CREEK 215 

guished in the technical branches of the Army and Navy are 
found upon its list of professors and lecturers. 

The University dates from 1821, when it was established by Act 
of Congress as a theological school, under the title of Columbian College 
of the District of Columbia. In 1873 the name was changed to Co- 
lumbian University, and in 1904 the present name was adopted. 

The University possesses a small but valuable library (approxi- 
mately 40,000 ivolumes, exclusive of the law and medical libraries). 
Its special features are the classsical library of Prof. Curt Wachsmuth of 
the University of Leipzig, the library of Germanic philology belonging 
to the late Prof. Richard Heinzel of the University of Vienna, and the 
"Mount Vernon Alcove" of international law and political science, 
established by Mr. Andrew Carnegie. ^— — __ „ ^ _ ,— *7 

One square S., at No. 2017 F'^t., is the Tioiise in which 
James Monroe was living when elected President. This 

1 house was also, for a time, the home of the famous meteorol- 

1 ogist, Cleveland Abbe (p. 237). 

Three squares W., on the W. side of E St., between 23d 
and 25th Sts., are the grounds and building formerly occu- 
pied by the U. S. Naval Observatory (p. 442), and now the 
Naval Museum of Hygiene. Here is exhibited a collection 
of appliances used in the Navy for the protection and preserva- 
tion of human life. In the same grounds a.rethQ Naval Hospital, 

I the Naval Medical School and the Pay Officers' School. 

} In the grounds is a monument to Dr. Benjamin Rush 

1(1745-1813). a distinguished physician of his day, who ren- 
dered valiant service during the yellow fever epidemic in 
Philadelphia. He was one of the Signers of the Declaration 
of Independence. The monument was erected in 1904 by the 
American Medical Association. 

JVI. Pennsylvania Avenue from the White House 
j to Rock Creek 

|_ This section of Pennsylvania Ave. is historically interest- 
ling as sharing with the immediate vicinity of the Capitol the 
distinction of having been one of the earliest residential 
jzentres. Here were erected the historic "Six Buildings" and 
"Seven Buildings," in which scores of members of Congress 
were glad to find an abiding place. Here also, a little later, 
vas the Franklin House, one of the most celebrated of early 
W^Hshington hotels. Today there is comparatively little to 
interest the stranger, and most points of interest may be 
^expeditiously seen from the trolley car during the trip to 
"l^eorgetown (p. 10). 

The Mills Building, at S. W. cor. of Pennsylvania Ave., 
ind 17th St., was named from its owner, Gen. Anson Mills, 
Retired. Until the completion of the new Department of 
^bor Building in 1917, it rortained most of the offices of 
hat Department, including those of the Secretary of Immi- 



2i6 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

gration, Information, Naturalization. Labor Statistics and the 
Children's Bureau. 

Opposite, at the N. W, cor. of 17th St., is the site of the 
headquarters of General Mansfield during the Civil War. 
Passes were issued here to cross the Long Bridge and through 
the Federal lines. 

During the last quarter of the 19th century a number of 
Central and South American States had 'their Legations in tha 
block between 17th and i8th Sts., but the old houses which 
they occupied have all been replaced by modern structures. 

No. 1732 Penns3dvania Ave. is the site of the house ii 
which General Winfield Scott resided. 

At N. E. cor. of i8th St. is the Hotel Pozvhatan, a ten- 
story structure of buff brick, recently enlarged (p. 5). 
Milbiirn Heister & Co., architects. Directly opposite, on the 
S. E. cor: of i8th St., is the newly erected building of the 
Interstate Commerce Commission, an eleven-story structure of 
buff brick and limestone, on the order of the modern loft building. 

This Co?3imission constitutes a Bureau empowered, under the Act 
of February 4, 1887, to examine into the management of the business ot 
all Common Carriers. All interstate traffic is under its jurisdiction. It 
was formerly located in the Sun Building, 131 7 F St. 

The new Commerce Building (PI. Ill — ^£3 — No. 39), an 
eleven-story structure of buff brick, stands at the N. E. cor. 
of Pennsylvania Ave. and 19th St. It contains the offices of the 
following Bureaus; i. Foreign and Domestic Commerce: 2. 
Lighthouses ; 3. ^Navigation ; 4. Steamboat Inspection. 

Here also is the Labor Statistics Library, Room 201-209 (U. S. 
Department of Labor), founded in iSS.^?. and now containing approxi- 
mately 28,000 volumes and pamphlets. Open 9 A. J\L to 4 P. ^L daily, 
except Sundays and Holidays. Reference library open to all students 
and investigators of social problems. 

Opposite, across a triangular square at the S. E. cor. of 
19th and H Sts., stands the Volunteer Engine House, still 
bearing the inscription "Union Engine Instituted 18 15." It 
is now occupied jointly 'by the surviving members of the 
original Volunteer Association and by the Association of 
Oldest Inhabitants. 

The Association of Oldest Inhabitants was organized December 7, 
1865, and has numbered among its Presidents, Benjamin Ogle Tayloe, 
W. A. Bradley, Dr. J. B. Blake and Theodore W. Noyes, editor of 
the Star. 

The declared object of the Association is "to cement and strengthen 
the interest and associations arising out of a common residence for a 
long period in the same locality, to keep alive the remembrances of the 
l>ast, and the social and paternal communion of the present and the 
future." 

Requirements: local residence of 35 years, and age of 50 years and 
upward. Since the Veteran Volunteer Fireman's Association must in- 
evitably be extinguished through death, this building, assigned by Act 



PENINSYLVANIA AVE. TO ROCK CREEK 217 

of Congress, is destined to become the exclusive possession of the 
"Oldest Inhabitants." 

The Association possesses a museum which contains among other 
historic relics the surveyor's chain, used in laying out the streets and 
avenues of Washington. 

At N. W. cor. of Pennsylvania Ave. and 19th St., Nos. 
1901-1913, still stand the historic "Seven Buildings," com- 
pleted about 1800. The corner house was the State Depart- 
ment when John Marshall was Secretary. James Madison 
occupied it as the Executive Mansion, 1815-17, during the 
restoration of the White House (p. 112), and after his tem- 
porary stay in the Octagon House (p. 212). Elbridge Gerry 
and Martin Van Buren occupied it when vice-presidents, and 
Robert J. Walker when Secretary of the Treasury. Here also 
Gen. George B. McClellan had his headquarters in 1861. 

In this row( also lived General Trureau de Garambonville, Minister 
of France, in 1804, and Gen. John Armstrong, George W. Campbell, 
James K. Paulding and Benjamin W. Crowninshield, Cabinet officers. 
In 1 81 6 No. 1905 becam-ei the residence of Jose Correa da Serra, first 
Portuguese Minister to the United States. In 1864 it was occupied by 
Chevalier Joseph Tjertinatti. Minister Resident of Italy. 

The N. W. cor. of 21st and I Sts. is historic. Here, 
about 1800, one William O'Neale opened a public house, 
which became a favorite stopping place for Congressmen 
from Tennessee; among others. Senator Williams and Repre- 
sentatives Claiborne, Hogg, Marr and Rhea. Here General 
Eaton, from 181 1 onward, and later General Jackson, made 
their home. Here also Vice-President Clinton died April 
I2th, 1812. 

This hotel was called at first O'Neale's Hotel, and later the 
Franklin House. About 1823 John Gadsby, who had been a successful 
landlord in Alexandria (p. 516) and Baltimore, bought out the hotel 
and 'clonducted it until 1828, when he leaded the National (p. 100)."^ 

The chief historic interest connected with O'Neale's Hotel centers 
in the proprietor's daughter, Margaret, popularly known as Peggy 
O'Neale. In 1816, while still a mere girl, she married John B. Timber- 
lake, a purser in the U. S. Navy. He died in 1824. She married for 
the second time, 1829, General Eaton, Secretary of War under Jack- 
son. This marriage precipitated a social war in Washington. Accusa- 
tions against the lady's good name were made openly, both in Cabinet 
circles and in the New York Ave. Presbyterian Church, which she 
attended. The ladies of the Cabinet refused to recognize her. Presi- 
dent Jackson instituted an investigation and championed her cause, to 
the extent of sending home a favorite niece then acting as mistress 
of the White House, who was obdurate in her refusal to receive Mrs. 
Eaton. The President thought that he saw a way out of the dilemma 
by appointing General Eaton Minister to France; but this the General 
declined, refusing to retreat under fire. Incidentally, the New York 
Ave. Presbyterian Church was split in two, and between resignations on 
both sides the minister found himself preaching to an almost empty 
house. 

Subsequently General Eaton was appointed Minister to Spain; and 
here, for a few years, Peggy O'Neale probably enjoyed the happiest 
[period of her life. After her husband's death she received, in her 



2i8 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

later years, in some measure the social recognition that had earlier 
been denied her. Her crowning folly was her third marriage. An 
Italian, Antonio Buchignani, who claimed to be a Count, and who 
established a dancing school in Washington, not only won her elderly 
affections, but cajoled her into transferring to him the bulk of her 
property. Thereupon he eloped with his bride's married granddaughter, 
one Emily Randolph. Peggy O'Xeale rose to the situation, and through 
legal channels accomplished her own divorce and that of her grand- 
daughter, and compelled the marriage of the latter with her errant hus- 
band. She lived on in Washington until her 8oth year, and died at 
the Lochiel House, 512 9th St., November 8th, 1879. She was buried 
beside her second husband, General Eaton, m Oak Hill Cemetery (p. 479). 

The Fratiklin hotel was later converted into dwellinfj 
houses and known, first as Gadsby's Row, and later as Mc- 
Blair's Row, and descendants of the Gadsby-McBlair family 
continued to occupy these houses down to 1906. 

Nos, 2107-21 17 Pennsylvania Ave. constitute the row for- 
merly known as the "Six Buildings." In 1800, No. 2107 was 
the first Navy Office, and here Samuel Houston, Governor 
of Tennessee, U. S. Senator and first President of Texas, 
had his residence. Other distinguished occupants of these 
buildings include: Gen. James Wilkinson, General-in-Chief of 
the Army, 1796; John Francis Mercer, first president of the 
C. and O. Canal Co., and James Madison when Secretary 
of State. 

Opposite, No. 2106, Is the house in which William B. 
Magruder, sixteenth Mayor of Washington (1856-57) lived 
and died. 

PennsyJ\-ania Ave. intersects New Hampshire Ave. at 
Washington Circle, the crossing point of 23d and K Sts, In 
the centre ot this Circle stands an Equestrian statue of Wash- 
ington, upon a pedestal of white marble blocks. 

This statue, modeled by Clark Mills, was unveiled February 22, 
tSSo. It is intended to represent Washington as nearly as possible as 
he appeared at the Battle of Princeton. The face was modeled from the 
head done by Iloudon; the uniform was copied from one actually worn 
by Washington; and the trappings of the horse were taken from those 
represented by Trumbull, who was one of Washington's Aides. 

On the S. E. side of Washington Circle, W. of New Hampshire Ave., 
is St. Ann's Infant Asylum. The eastern section of this building is an 
old private residence dating back to the early 20's. It was originally 
build by a Captain Kuhn of the Marine Corps. Later it was occupied 
as the Legation by Fox, the British Minister, and nephew of Charles 
Fox, the famous statesman. 

At 2Sth and L Sts. is the Columbia Hospital for Women {Nathan 
C. Wyeth, architect). Opposite, at S. E. cor. of Pennsylvania Ave. 
and 25th St. is St. Stephen's Catholic C/»«rc/i, organized in 1865. The 
building is of red pressed brick, on the Byzantine order of architecture. 
The United States Weather Bureau is situated on the S. 
side! of M St. between 24th and 25th Sts., directly in the rear 
of the Columbia Hospital for Women. It is a branch of the' 
Department of Agriculture, and its chief activities fall under 
five heads: i. Weather Forecasts and Warnings; 2. River 



OTHiER RESIDENTIAL STREETS 219 

and Flood Forecastings ; 3. Climatological Work; 4. Agricul- 
tural Meteorology; 5. Vessel Reporting. 

History. Early attempts to interest Congress in the establishment 
of a National Weather Bureau met with little response. On September 
ist, 1869, Dr. Cleveland Abbe inaugurated daily weathef forecasts for 
the Cincinnati Chamber of Commerce; and the success of this ex- 
periment resulted in an Act of Congress, dated February 9th, 1870, 
authorizing and requiring the Secretary of War "to provide for taking 
meteorological observations at the military stations in . . . the 
United States, and for giving notice on the northern lakes and on the 
sea coast ... of tlie approach and force of storms." 

The appropriation bill for 1872 extended the scope of the Weather 
Bureau by providing "for expenses of storm signals announcing the 
probable approach and force of storms throughout the United States, 
for the benefit of Commerce and Agriculture." 

By an Act dated October ist, 1890, the meteorological work of the 
Signal Office was transferred to the Department of Agricfulture, and 
under this Act the present Weather Bureau was created. 

To the general public the Weather Bureau is best known 
through its daily forecasts and weather maps. These fore- 
casts are based upon simultaneous observations of local 
weather conditions taken daily at 8 A. M. and 8 P. M. 
(75th meridian time), at approximately 200 stations scat- 
tered throughout the United States and West Indies, and sup- 
plemented by daily reports from various other points in the 
northern hemisphere. 

Within two hours after the morning observations have been 
taken, forecasts are telegraphed to 1600 distributing points, from which 
they are further disseminated by telegraph, telephone, wireless telegraphy 
and mail. The enormous number of individuals reached by this system 
is illustrated by the fact that the forecasts are delivered daily by mail 
to approximately 90,000 addresses, and by telephone to upward of 
5,500,000 subscribers. 

The Weather Bureau Library (which 'has remained sep- 
arate from the other Bureau libraries of the Agricultural De- 
partment) includes today upward of 34,000 volumes, includ- 
ing pamphlets. In meteorology and climatology it is be- 
ilieved to be stronger than any other library in the world. 

I Regulations. Open daily, except Sundays and Holidays, from 9 

;A. M. to 4 P. M. It is a reference library, intended primarily for the 
'officials and staff of the Bureau, but ovitsiders engaged in scientific 
^investigations are welcome to use it. 

! VII. Other Residential Avenues and Streets 
a. Vermont Avenue 
Vermont Avenue runs N. N. E. from Lafayette Square 
jand H St. to Florida Ave., a distance of about one and one- 
third miles, and is interrupted by McPherson Square and 
Thomas and loiva Circles. 

I On W. side from H to I Sts. is the Arlington Building, 
I low housing the Veterans' Bureau (p. 190). 



220 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Between I and K Sts. is McPherson Sq., containing a 
bronze equestrian statue, heroic size, of Maj.-Gen. James B. 
McPherson (1828-64). James T. Rohisso, sculptor. 

The figure, 14 ft. in height, represents the General as surveying 
a battlefield. On one panel is inscribed the single word "Atlanta," the 
scene of McPherson 's death. The statue, made from Confederate cannon 
captured in Georgia, was erected by the Society of the Grand Army 
of the Tennessee, at a cost of $48,000. Unveiled 1876. 

Facing the square, at N. W. cor. of I St., is the home of 
the University Club, a handsome six-story structure of buff 
brick and limestone, designed by George Oakley Totteti. 
Note the terra-cotta medallions on E. and S. fagades, con- 
taining the seals of the principal Universities. 

The University Club, composed, as its name implies, of the gradu- 
ates of American Colleges and Universities, has a present membership 
of over 1450, of which 925 are resident members. Its declared objects 
are "educational, literary, musical and scientific, for the promotion of 
the Arts and for mutual improvement." The smaller entrance door, at 
west end of the I St. fagade, gives admission to the Club Annex, con- 
taining parlor and restaurant, where the wives and daughters of mem- 
bers may entertain their friends. 

Directly across McPherson Park, at N. E. cor. of 15th 
and I Sts., is the Hotel Bellevue (p. 5). 

At the N. E. cor. of Vermont Ave. and K St. is the 
8-story building now occupied by the Department of Justice. 
Portraits of former Attorneys General offer the only attrac- 
tion to sightseers. Open to visitors week days, from 9 a. m. 
to 2 p. m. 

In the block N. of K St. are several historic homes. No. 
1014 is the former residence of Joseph G. Cannon when 
Speaker of the House. No. 1016 was once the Hayti Lega- 
tion. No. 1022 was the home of James Wilson, for sixteen 
3^ears Secretary lof Agriculture. Opposite, on E. side, is the 
Arlington, a recently opened Apartment Hotel. 

No. 1 120 is The Burlington, one of the largest Apart- 
ment Houses on the Avenue. Adjoining, on the N., No. 1122, 
is the former home of Supreme Court Justice William B. 
Woods (1824-87). Prior to 1880 it was for a time the Jap- 1 
anese Legation. No. 1124 was formerly the home of Senator 1 
William B. Allison. 

At Thomas Circle, 14th and M Sts., Vermont and Massa- 
chusetts Aves. intersect (p. 228). On S. side of Circle, at an' 
angle formed by 14th St. and Vermont Ave., is the Portland j 
(p. 5), a residential hotel. Here at various times have I 
lived Secretary of the Navy Charles J. Bonaparte, Secretary i 
of the Navy John D. Long, Senator Albert J. Beveridge and ' 
Secretary of Agriculture J. Sterling Morton, the originator J 
of "Aribor Day." It was the first apartment building in^l 
Washington (erected 1880). 



OTHER RESIDENTIAL STREETS jji 

In the N. triangle formed by Massachusetts and Vermont 
Aves., and directly in front of the Lutheran Memorial 
Church, stands the "^Martin Luther Statue of bronze, heroic 
size, erected by the Lutheran Church of America at a cost 
of $10,000. This justly admired statue was cast in Ger- 
many from the same molds as Rietschels center-piece of the 
memorial at Worms. 

The Lutheran Memorial Church is a pleasing structure 
in ornate Gothic, the cornerstone of which was laid in 1870. 
The spacious auditorium is almost elliptical in shape, and 
contains so'me interesting memorial windows. The best of 
these, in memory of the Rev. Henry N. Pohlmann, D.D., 
"Eor 53 years a faithful minister of Christ," contains the full- 
length figure of Luther, "The liberator of modern thought." 
Other windows contain medallion portraits : W. side, John 
Knox; Calvin; Ulric Zwingli ; John Wesley; E. side, Gus- 
tavus Adolphus; John Huss; John Wicklif; Philip Mel- 
ancthon. 

East on N St., No. 1310, is now (1922) the office of the 
Japanese Embassy. 

One block N. on Vermont Ave., W. side, just above N 
St., is the Vcruwnt Avenue Christian Church, a commodious 
Gothic structure of red brick, popularly known as the Gar- 
field Memorial Church, and constituting in the District of 
Columbia the Mother church of the Christian or Campbellite 
Faith. 

During the many years that Garfield served in Congress, 
he worshiped- in a little frame chapel which stood on the 
site of the present church. W'hen he was elected President, 
the Society determined to erect a new church which should 
'be the leading one of this Faith in the country. The old 
'pew occupied by Garfield while President has been marked 
Iwith a tablet, and stands in the N. W. cor. of the present 
rhurch, adjoining the door leading into the Sunday School. 
Above this door is an admirable bronze tablet by U. S. J. 
punbar, portraying the Rev. Frederick D. Power, the pastor 
i)f the church in Garfield's time. In the Church Parlor may 
!)e seen a photograph of the original chapel, and the Sexton 
(Vill point out the window through which the assassin 
|juiteau had planned to fire his fatal shot, only a week or 
wo befor.e the actual murder ; he happened to choose one of 
he very few Sundays when Garfield was absent from service. 

At Iowa Circle, 13th and P Sts., Vermont and Rhode 
sland Aves. intersect. In the centre of this Circle is the 
questrian bronze monument, heroic size, to Gen. John A. 
-ogan. It was erected at a cost of $65,000, of which $15,000 



222 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

was given by the Societ}- of the Army of Tennessee, and the 
balance by Congress. (Franklin Sirmnons, sculptor.) 

The statue surmounts a massive and highly ornamental bronze 
pedestal, resting on a base of pink granite. At the N. and S. ends of 
the pedestal are two bronze female figures, symbolizing respectively 
America in War and in Peace. On the sides of the pedestal are two 
large groups in relief representing: (W. side) General Logan presiding 
at a Council of War; (E. side) Vice-President Logan taking Oath of 
Office. 

North of Iowa Circle, No. 1503 Vermont Ave., was the 
home of Norman J. Colma.n, the first Secretary of Agriculture. 

North of this point the Avenue is occupied largely by 
negroes, and offers nothing of interest to the tourist. 

b. Connecticut Avenue 

Connecticut Avenue, running N. N. W. from Lafayette 
Square, measures, inclusive of its new extension to ChevA' 
Chase Circle at the District Line, approximately five miles. 
The lower section has been spoiled for residential purposes 
by the encroachment of retail business, and the squares 
immediately N. of K St. constitute Washington^'s principal 
"Automobile Row." North from Dupont Circle, however, the 
Avenue passes through the heart of the newer residential 
section, where may be seen many of the finest dwellings 
and apartment houses in. the city. 

The N. E. cor. of Connecticut Ave. and H vSt. is occu- 
pied by the site of the old Corcoran Mansion, lately acquired 
by the National Cham'ber of Commerce (p. 191). Immediately 
adjoining on N., No. 815 (S. E. cor. of I St.), is the 
Rochambcau, one of the largest of Washington's apartment 
houses. Here, from time to time, have been housed a number^ 
of the South American Legations. 

At the intersection of the Avenue with 17th St., between! 
I and K Sts., is Farragut Square, containing a colossal 
bronze statue of .A.dmiral Daxid Glasgow Farragut, modeled 
by Mrs. Vinnie Ream Hoxie, and cast at the( Washington] 
Navy Yard, from metal taken from Farragut's flag-ship, thci 
Hartford. The standing figure, ten feet in height and sur- 
mounting a twenty-foot granite pedestal, represents Farragut) 
in naval uniform with a telescope, watching the enemy s 
movements. It was, unveiled in 1881. 

No. 1015 Connecticut Ave. has been successively the 
home of the Legations of Belgium, Austria-Hungary, Ita!> 
and Costa Rica. 

At L St. and Connecticut Ave. (E. side) is Stoncleiuhi 
Court, another of the most important apartment housesi 
which, from time to time, has housed a number of foreignj 



OTHER RESIDENTIAL STREETS 223 

Legations, including (1922) Portugal and Nicaragua; here 
also was the home of James Wilson, late Secretary of Agri- 
culture. 

At the N. E. cor. of Connecticut Ave. and De Salles St 
is the Grafton Hotel (p. 5). 

At the S. E. cor. of M St. and Connecticut Ave. is The 
Connecticut, an apartment house in which Justice Joseph 
McKenna, of the U. S. Supreme Court, resides. 

Connecticut Ave. intersects i8th St., between M and N 
Sts., forming two small triangular parks. In the S. triangle 
is a monument to the poet Henry W. Longfellow, consisting 
of a seated bronze figure, heroic size, clad in Academic gown, 
and surmounting a pedestal of polished pink granite. It w'as 
the gift of the Longfellow National Memorial Association, 
and was unveiled in 1909. William Conpcr, sculptor. 

In the N. triangle is a statue of John Witherspoon 
(1722-94), a Scottish-American Presbyterian minister, and 
once President of Princeton University. He was the only 
.clergyman among the Signers of the Declaration of Inde- 
pendence. The statue was presented in 1909 by the Wither- 
iSpoon Memorial Association. William Couper, sculptor. 

I On the north side of the pedestal is the following quotation from 
Witherspoon's utterances: 

"For my own part, of property I have some, of reputation more. 
That reputation is staked, that property is pledged on the issue of this 
contest; and although these gray hairs must soon descend into the 
sepulchre, I would infinitely rather that they descend thither by the 
land of the executioner than desert at this crisis the sacred cause of 
Iny country." 

^ The Presbyterian Church of the Covenant, at the S. E. 
br. of N and i8th Sts., directly faces the Witherspoon 
nonument. Owing to a lack of any Presbyterian church con- 
jeniently adjacent to the newer residential section, this church 
vas organized by a group of prominent men including Alatthew 
alt, William Walter Phelps and James G. Blaine. 

The church edifice was approaching completion in 1889, when one 
ight the tall white tower crumbled to the earth, destroying a large part 
i the body of the church, and postponing the completion for many 
tionths. 

j Two of the windows in this church are memorials given by Mrs. 
,eed, sister of the late Admiral Dahlgren. They represent: i. The 
nnunciation; 2. The Adoration of Magdalen. 

President Benjamin Harrison attended service in this church. 

The British Embassy (No. 1300) stands directly W. of 

le Church of the Covenant, at the N. W. cor. of Connecticut 

iye. and N St., running back to 19th St. The visitor cannot 

jiij to recognize over the entrance doorway the familiar 

ritish crest, in bronze, of the Lion and the Unicorn. Here, 



if 



224 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

during his term of office, resided the Hon. James Bryce, 
author of "The American Commonwealth." 

This was the first of the foreign Embassies and Legations to build 
and own a permanent residence in Washington. It dates from the Lite 
70's. The German Embassy, No. 1423-37 Mas^^achusetts Ave., was the 
next to follow suit. 

No. 1331 Connecticut Ave. is the home of Alexander 
Graham Bell, the inventor of the telephone. His father, 
Dr. Alexander Melville Bell, founder of the Volta Bureau 
(p- 475)' died in this house. No. 1339 is now (1922) the 
Legation of the Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. 

At intersection of Connecticut Ave. with P and i8th Sts.. 
Massachusetts and New Hampshire Aves. is Dupont Circle, 
named after Admiral Samuel Francis Dupont (1803-1865). In 
centre is a Memorial Fountain (Daniel Chester French, sculp- 
tor ; Henry Bacon, arch.), replacing former statue of the 
Admiral (by Laitnt Thompson), now in Delaware. 

At the intersection of Connecticut Ave. and California 
St., in a small triangular park, stands a monument to Gen. 
George B. McClellan (1826-88), the joint gift of Congress 
and the Society of the Army of the Potomac, dedicated 1907. 
Frederick MacMonnies, sculptor. 

Directly W. of thei McClellan monument stands The Highlands, an 
ap>artment house, designed by Arthur B. Heatan, which has housed, 
among others, the Guatemala and Panama Legations. 

At No. 1800 Connecticut Ave., cor. of S St., is now 
(1922) the Netherlands Legation; and a little beyond, at No. 
1838, is the Greek Legation. 

West of Connecticut Ave., near the cor. of S St. and 
Phelps Place, is the site of the historic estate of Kalorama, 
once the home of the poet and diplomat, Joel Barlow. Count 
Rumford and Robert Fulton were both visitors here. | 

In a barn baak of the house Fulton is said ta have madqi his fir^t] 
steamboat in 1806, local joiners and blacksmiths doing the work. The! 
boat was launched in the mill-pond of Rock Creek (to which the estate j 
tlien extended) and the experiment was pronounced a success a yearl 
before the launching of the Cleriiioyit on the Hudson. 

Kalorama (t. e., "Beautiful View") was a forty-acre tract lying^ 
between what is now Connecticut Ave. and Rock Creek, and forming 
part of the old Holmead estate. The historic mansion, standing ap- 
proximately on the site of the William A. Mearn's house, was erected' 
about 1750, and its foundation walls, built, according to tradition, of 
English brick, were so thick and substantial that they gave promise 
of lasting for centuries. In 1794 this Holmead Mansion, including 
the forty-acre tract, was bought by one Gustavus Scott, of Maryland 
and shortly afterwards passed into the possession of William Augustine 
Washington, who remodeled the house and added a spacious cast win^ 
containing drawing-rooms and a banquet hall. He had intended tc 
make it a permanent home, but succumbed to the temi)tation of '<■ 
$14,000 offer made by Joel Barlow, to whom he conveyed the propertj 
in 1807. Once again the Mansion was extensively remodeled undc 



OTHER RESIDENTIAL STREETS 225 

the joint advice of Latrobe and Robert Fulton, the inventor, who was 
a close personal friend of Barlow. The grounds were laid outi anew, 
and there were erected a pretty Greek lodge, designed by Latrobe* after 
an Ionian Temple, and a summer-house, designed by Fulton, which 
stood on the brow of the hill, at the present intersection of 24th and 
U Sts. The family mausoleum (where Commodore Decatur found a 
temporary resting place) was situated in a grove at what is now the 
intersection of Florida and Massachusetts Aves. 

When Barlow was appointed Minister to France, in iSii, the 
house was leased to the French Minister Serurier. Barlow never re- 
turned home. He died in 1812 while following the fortunes of 
Napoleon, and was buried in Zarnivica, Poland. Although almost 
forgotten now. Barlow in his time was recognized as America's greatest 
poet, and his Coliiuibiad, dedicated to Fulton, was regarded as a great 
National epic. 

Kalorama was occupied by Barlow's widow until her death in 
18 1 8, after which it became the property of her brother-in-law, George 
Bonford, who for thirty years worthily supported its traditions as a 
centre of hospitality and fashionable life. After many vicissitudes the 
Mansion was demolished m 1889, and the estate cut up into city 
blocks. Today nothing remains as a landmark excepting the two 
names, Kalorama Road and Decatur St., marking approximately the 
northern and southern limits of Kalorama. 

Adjacent on S St., No. 2040, is now (1922) the Ccccho- 
slozvkian Legation. 

Four blocks N. of S St., Connecticut Ave. intersects 
Wyoming Ave. East on Wyoming Ave., No. 185 1, was the 
residence of Josephus Daniels while Secretary of the Navy. 

North from here Connecticut Ave. curves slightly west- 
ward, between a series of apartment houses, to the eastern 
bank of Rock Creek. The Connecticut Ave. bridge, com- 
pleted in 1906, was designed by George S. Morrison, under 
'supervision of Edzvard P. Casey, consulting architect. At 
sach end of the bridge are a pair of Lions, moulded in con- 
:rete, which critics have described as ''presumably modeled 
'from an extremely old lion, dragged from his cage in a 
dying condition." The sculptor has wisely refrained from 
jittaching his signature. The rather fine series of bronze 
i;tandards which support the electric lamps, at the approach 
iind throughout the bridge, were designed by the /. L. Mott 
Vo., New York. 

5 (For Connecticut Ave. Extended see p. 440) 
•i 

c. Massachusetts Avenue 

*Massachusetts Avenue starts opposite the District Alms 
^^ouse at 19th and D Sts. S. E., and runs in a northwesterly 
lirection parallel to and about half a mile N. of Pennsylvania 
Vve., to 23d and R Sts. N. W., from which point its extension 
"uns due N. W. to the District boundary. Its course is inter- 
"upted by Lincoln Sq. (p. 366), Stanton Sq. (p. 366), the 
Jnion Station Plaza (p. 358), Mt. Vernon Sq. (p. 226), Thomas 



226 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Circle (p. 220) Scott Circle (p. 200) and Dupont Circle 
(p. 224). Total length about eight miles. 

Until recently Massachusetts Ave., between 9th St. and 
Rock Creek, had for a quarter of a century been a leading 
residential street, especially favored by the foreign Diplomatic 
Corps. The steady trend of fashionable life northward has 
already materially changed the aspect of the Avenue, and 
there are a notable number of vacant houses.^ The German 
Embassy still remains here in lonesome isolation. 

Although its prestige is already waning, Massachusetts Ave. is one 
of the comparatively modern streets. It is interesting to read the im- 
pressions of the English novelist, Anthony Trollope, recorded as late 
as 1862: 

"Massachusetts Ave. runs the vi'hole length of the city, and is 
inserted in the maps as a full-grown street about four miles in length. 
Go there, and you will find yourself not only ou* of town away among 
the fields, but you will find yourself beyond the fields in an uncultivated, 
unchained wilderness. Tucking your trousers up to your knees, you 
will wade through the bogs; you will lose yourself among rude hillocks; 
you will be out of reach of humanity." 

There is little of interest on the Avenue between North 
Capitol and 9th Sts. Between 'North Gapitol and ist Sts., 
on N. side is the Hotel Harris (p. 4). Where the Avenue 
intersects H and 3d Sts., and again at I and 6th Sts., are 
two small triangular parks. 

The Public Library of the District of Columbia (PI 
III — E-IV — No, 73) occupies the cen)ter of .Mt. Vernon 
Square, at the intersection of Massachusetts and New York 
Aves. The white marble building, on the classic order, was 
the gift of the late Andrew Carnegie, and was constructed 
under the supervision of Bernard R. Green, superintendent of 
construction for the Library of Congress. 

History. The establishment oi the Public Library was largely 
due to the efforts of Theodore W. Noyes, editor of the Evening Star, 
who( has been president of the Library's board of trustees ever since its 
establishment. The library was created by the Act of June 3, 1896; 
and a nucleus of 12,412 volumes was provided by the Washington City 
Free Library, a voluntary institution supported by private contributions, 
which turned over its collection when an appropriation for opening the 
new library was made in 1898. The central library building, formally 
dedicated Jan. 7, 1903, cost $375,000. Mr. Carnegie also offered $350,000 i 
(or more if needed) for branch library buildings, the first of which, 
the Takoma Park Branch, was accepted by permission of Congress, anti , 
opened Nov., 1911; the second, the Southeastern Branch, costing $67,000, \ 
will be ready late in 1922; located 7th St. & Penn. Ave. S. E. 

Owing to the lack of a full system of branches, the Public Library i 
utilizes more than 150 other agencies for the distribution of books, 
including various deposit stations in social settlements; in the central 
Y. M. C. A. building; the District Building; seven public high-school' 
libraries; 85 graded schools, etc. It circulates more than 1,000,000 
volumes annually. The library is supported almost wholly from Con- 
gressional appropriations. It hasi had but two chief librarians: Weston 
Flint, until 1904, and since then George F. Bowerman. 



OTHER RESIDENTIAL STREETS 227 

Resources. Approximately 250,000 volumes; also a large collection 
of newspaper and magazine cuttings, aomprising very useful material, 
especially that relating to the history of Washington; about 60,000 
unmounted pictures and 135 maps relating td the District of Columbia. 

A portrait of Theodore W. Noyes, ipresident of the Board of 
trustees, has recently been hung in the main delivery room. • Richard 
S. Meriman, artist. 

At the N. W. cor. of Massachusetts Ave. and 9th St., 
diagonally facing the Sq., stands the new home of the 
American Federation of Labor (founded 1881). It is a 
seven-story structure of limestone, terra-cotta and huff brick, 
resting upon a granite foundation. (Milburn, Heistcr & Co., 
architects.) The cornerstone bears the inscription, "This edi- 
fice erected for service in the cause of Labor — Justice — 
Freedom — Humanity, 1915-1916." On the 9th St. fagade is 
the Seal of the Society in terra-cotta, showing the globe 
with two hands clasped across the sea, with the motto, 
Labor omnia vincit. The President of this organization is 
Samuel Gompers. 

The American Federation of Labor, now 36 years old, has in its 
affiliations 86 National and International Trade Unions, which have in 
turn upward of 30,000 local branches, with a membership of approxi- 
mately 1,882,500; also 489 Federal local Unions with 23,763 members. 

Of course the so-called Labor Movement in the United States goes 
far back of 1881. Some of the Unions are quite old^^ as, for instance, 
the International Typographical Union of Washington, D. C, which 
dates from 1852. Some of the local Trade Unions which make up the 
National organizations afifiliated with the Federation, date back more 
than a century. For example, the Washington (D. C.) Printer's Union 
was organized in 1815. 

Opposite the Federation building, at the angle between 
Massachusetts Ave. and K. St., stands the National Methodist 
Episcopal Church .South, erected at a cost of approximately 
$250,000. 

The Church of the Ascension, at the N. W. cor. of 
Massachusetts Ave. and 12th St., dates from 1874. It is on 
the order of early English decorated Gothic, of gray lime- 
stone, with brownstone trim. 

History. The church was organized in 1844, in a small school- 
house at the corner of 9th and H Sts. The first church edifice was 
erected on H St., between 9th and loth Sts., on grounds now occupied 
by the Medical Department of Georgetown University, and was due 
chiefly to the generosity of Mrs. John Van Ness (Marcia Burnes). 
The first rector was Dr. Pinckney (subsequently P. E. Bishop of Mary- 
land, and nephew of the famous Maryland lawyer, William Pinckney). 
He was a life-long friend of William W. Corcoran, who was a member 
of the Vestry, and who subsequently erected the monument in memory 
I of Dr. Pinckney in Oak Hill Cemetery (p. 479). During the War of 
, the Rebellion, Dr. Pinckney, being a South^'rn symi)atlnzer, gave 
I offence to the Government by refusing to pray for northern victory. 
j Consequently he found himself one Sunday debarred from entering his 
I church by a guard standing with fixed bayonets. Dr. Pinckney subse- 
quently pleaded that his refusal to offer such prayers was based upon a 



228 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

church law prohibiting any addition to or subtraction from the prescribed 
service of the church; and in this he was sustained by the House of 
Bishops. 

No. 131 1, former home of Mr. E. Francis Riggs, banker (for many 
years partner of W. W. Corcoran). No. 13 12, Academy of the Holy 
Cross No 13 14, former home of Mr Justice Morris of the District 
Supreme Court No. 13 18, former home of J. Stanley-Brown, Secretary 
to President Garfield, and his wife, Mollie Garfield. No. 1326, former 
residence of Robert T. Lincoln, Secretary of War under Arthur. 

In Thomas Circle, situated at the intersection of Massa- 
chusetts and Vermont Aves. and 14th St., is a notable equestrian 
bronze *statue, heroic size, of Maj. -General George H. 
Thomas (born 1816), by /. Q. A. Ward. The statue was 
erected in 1879 by the Society of the Army of the Cumber- 
land, at a cost of $40,000. It is supported by a pedestal uf 
Virginia granite 16 ft. high, which was the gift of Congress, 
and cost $25,000. 

No. 1406 Massachusetts Ave. is the present Venezuelan 
Legation. 

No. 1407 Massachusetts Ave. was the residence of the late Kt. Rev. 
Henry Y. Satterlee, the first Protestant Episcopal Bishop of Washington. 
No. 1413, former residence of Thomas F. Bayard, Secretary of State, 
and first Ambassador to Great Britain. Senators William B. Allison 
and Shelby M. Cullum also once resided here. No. 1421, former resi- 
dence of S H. Kaufman, proprietor of the Evening Star. No. 141 5, 
former residence of Samuel F. Miller, Justice of the Supreme Court 
during 1862-90. Nos. 1423-37, the German Embassy. No. 1445, former 
residence of the late Spencer F. Baird, Secretary of the Smithsonian 
Institution. No. 1500, now occupied by ex-Vice-President Levi P. 
Morton, was former residence of Elihu Root while Secretary of State. 
No. 151 5, former residence of George Shiras, Justice of the Supreme 
Court during 1892-1903. ^ 

The Louise Home occupies the block on the S. side of the Avenue, 
between 15th and i6th Sts. It was' founded by William W. Corcoran 
as a Home for aged gentlewomen who have met with reverses, and was 
named in memory of his wife (Louise Morris) and his daughter Louise, 
who married Hon. George Custis of Louisiana. 

The Louise Home, consisting of three stories and a mansard, was 
designed by G. E. Lind, of Baltimore. It contains a portrait of Mrs. 
Ogle Tayloe, by Daniel Huntington. 

At Scott Circle (p. 200) Massachusetts Ave. intersects Rhode 
Island Ave., N and i6th Sts. 

No. 1 601 Massachusetts Ave. was the home of the late Willian. 
Windhaiin when Secretary of the Trea>ury. No. 1603, former home of 
the late Stilson Ilutchins, fo^r many years proprietor of the Washington 
Post. No. 1621, former home of Ainsworth R. Spofford, for thirty-three 
years Librarian of the Congressional Library. No. 1631 is now' (1922) 
the Legation of the Dominican Rct>iiblic. 

Southwest corner of i7tli St., light stone building, is the old home 
of Beriah Wilkins, editor and proprietor of the ll'ashi}igtoit Post. 
Opposite No. 1701, residence of Redfield Proctor when Secretary ut 
War; later the home of Bisihop Hearst. No. 1707 is now (1922) the 
Bolivian Legation. No. 1708, first Washington home of Thomas' Nelson 
Page (1894-97). No. 1709, former home of William Gibiis Mc.Adoc,, 
Secretary of the Treasury. No. 1714, formerly occupied (about 188b) 
by the Legation of Sweden and Norway. No, 1715, the present Greek 
Legation. No. 1730, former Spamish Legation (about 1890). No. 1735. 1 
home of William Crozier, Brig-General and Chief of Ordnance. 



OTHER RESIDENTIAL STREETS 229 

The Force Public School, Nos. 1738-44, a red brick struc- 
ture on the S. side of the Ave., is one of the most notable 
primary schools in Washington because of the many sons of 
famous men who have attended it. The list includes : James 
Garfield, grandson of President Garfield ; Theodore, Archibald 
and Quentin Roosevelt, sons of President Roosevelt ; and 
Charles Taft, son of ex-President (now Chief Justice) Taft. 
In the school yard is a memorial tree planted for Quentin 
Roosevelt, who died in the Air Service in France during the 
World War. 

No. 1765, for twenty-five years the Washington home of Senator 
Henry Cabot Lodge. No. 1770, the later home (from 1890 onward) of 
Mrs. Frances Hodgson Burnett. No. 1780, now occupied (1922) by 
the Belgian Embassy. 

Northeast corner of i8th St.: here for several years was tho 
Spanish Legation, down to the outbreak of the War in 1898. Diagonally 
opposite, No. 1800 Massachusetts Ave., is the former home of the late 
Chief Justice Melville W. Fuller. It was subsequently occupied by 
Senator Charles W. Fairbanks; and in 19 10 was^ the Argentine Legation. 

At 19th and P Sts., where Massachusetts, Connecticut 
and New Hampshire Aves. intersect, is Dupont Circle (p. 224), 

No. 1915 Massachusetts Ave. is the former residence of Senator 
William A. Clark of Montana. No. 2010, residence of Grace Denio 
Litchfield, the novelist. No. 201 1, until 19 16 the Belgian Legation. 
No. 2013, former residence of the late Charles M. Ffoulke, whose col- 
lection of tapestries was ranked as one of the finest private collections 
in the world. No. 2019 is the residence of Supreme Court Justice 
Mahlon Pitney. 

Southeast corner of 21st St., one of Washington's finest private 
residences, built by the late Thomas F. Walsh, and said to have cost 
$3,000,000. No. 21 1 1, former home of ex-Senator Edmonds of Vermont. 
It was occupied from 1895 onward by Mrs. U. S. Grant and her 
daughter, Mrs. Algernon Sartoris (Nellie Grant). No. 21 18, residence 
of Larz Anderson, former Minister to Japan. No. 221 1, residence of 
Mrs. Sheridan, widow of General Philip Sheridan. 

At 23d and R Sts. the Avenue reaches Sheridan Circle. 
Here stands the equestrian statue of General Philip Sheridan, 
by Giitrjon Dorglum, erected by Congress in 1909, at a cost 
of $60,0000. 

^ One square W. on Q St. we reach the new *Rock Creek 
Bridge (igi6), designed jointly by Glenn Brozvn and his son 
Bedford Brozvn. It is a curved structure, somewhat on the 
fashion of a iRoman Aqueduct, but is built exclusively ci 
American materials and ornamented with American symbol.^. 
The corbels .start with Indian heads, modeled after the life- 
mask of "Kicking Bear," now in the 'National Museum. Each 
end of the bridge is flanked by a pair of American Bison 
{A. Phimister Proctor, sculptor). 

(For Massachusetts Avenue Extended see p. 442). 



230 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

d. The Numbered Streets East of Sixteenth Street 

Fifteenth Street north from Pennsylvania Avenue. 
The three blocks on 15th St., from the point where Penn- 
sylvania Ave. is interrupted by the Executive Grounds, to 
its resumption where New York Ave. diverges to the N. E., 
are occupied on L. by the Treasury Building (p. 122). Oppo- 
site, from Pennsylvania Ave. to F St., is the new Wash- 
ington Hotel (p. 3). At No. 613 15th St. is the National 
Metropolitan Bank, a white marble building on the classic 
order, designed by B. Stanley Simmons. This, the second 
oldest banking institution in Washington, was organized in 
1814 as the Bank of the Metropolis. Its first President was 
John iP. Van Nessi (p. 170). 

At the S. E. cor. of 15th and G Sts., on the site of the 
old Riggs House, stands the Riggs Office Building, an eight- 
story structure, with a frontage of 116 and 178 ft. respec. 
tively, designed by /. H. de Sibour. It contains Keith's 
Theatre (p. 25), the auditorium of which rises to the sixth 
floor level. 

The upper floor and roof are occupied by the Natioml 
Press Club, which, from an original membership of fifty men 
organized in 1908, now has upward of a thousand members, 
including some of the most prominent men in the country, 
such as : the President of the United States, several Cabinet 
members and the Governors of two states, who prior to hold- 
ing office had joined the club as writers, reporters or pub- 
lishers. 

At the N. E. cor. of 15th St. and New York Ave. is the 
National Savings and Trust Company, the oldest Savings 
Bank in the city. Opposite, at the N. W. cor. of 15th St. 
and Pennsylvania Ave., the American Surety and Trust 
Company occupies the site of the old Bank of the United 
States. 

The intersection of 15th and H Sts. is marked by some of 
the finest office buildings in Washington. At the S. E. cor. 
stands the Wood^vard Building. At the S. W. cor. is the 
Union Trust Company {Wood, Donn and Deming, archi- 
tects). At the N. E. cor. is the Southern Building. 

The N. W. cor. is occupied by the Hotel Shoreham 
(P- 3), one of Washington's leading hotels, occupying the 
site of a historic dwelling, originally built for Samuel Har- 
rison Smith of the National IntcUigenccr, and afterwards 
owned by Representative Samuel Hopper and temporarily;; 
occupied by Gen. George B. McClcllan when he was restored!: 
to the Command of the Army of the Potomac by Lincoln in 
1862. 



OTHER RESIDENTIAL STREETS 231 

No. 817 15th St. was once the home of Gen. William 
T. Sherman. No. 821 was the home of James G. Blaine, 
during" the Hayes administration. 

Between I and K Sts., 15th St. passes McPherson Square, 
crossing Vermont Ave. ; for historic houses at intersection 
With I and K Sts. respectively, see p. 220. 

On the W. side of 15th St., between L and M Sts., stands 
St. Augustine's Church, the largest R. C. colored church in 
the United States, founded in 1863. The present building, 
dedicated in 1874, contains some interesting windows. Oppo- 
site, at No. 1 147, is the Episcopal Eye, Ear and Throait 
Hospital. 

Grace Reformed Church, at the N. E. cor. of 15th and 

Sts., was organized in 1877, and was attended by Theodore 
Roosevelt throughout the years of his official life in- Wash- 
ington. The present structure, erected in 1901, is of gray 
limestone, on the Gothic order. Above the main doorway 
are carved the shields of Zurich and Geneva. The church 
contains some excellent windows, best seen by afternoon 
light. The Roosevelt pew is No. 5, on the N. side of the 
,central aisle. 

; There is nothing of interest to the casual visitor N. of 
,this point. 

1 Fourteenth Street north from Pennsylvania Avenue. 
pn W. side, from Pennsylvania Ave. to F St., is the New 
Willard Hotel (p. 3). Opposite, at S. E. cor. of F St., is 
the Ehhitt House (p. 3). Just above G St., 14th St. inter- 
sects New York Ave. East on H St., No, 1333, is the George 
jV ashing ton Hospital. 

One block E., at the angle where New York Ave. inter- 
sects H St., stands the Nezv York Avenue Presbyterian 
Church, a sombre structure of red brick with brownstone 
trim. The main entrance, facing E. toward the apex of 
:he triangle, is adorned with a Roman-Corinthian portico 
and pediment, and is reached by incongruous curving iron 
stairways. 

This church has been attended by many Presidents, including John 
Juincy Adams, Andrew Jackson, W. H. Harrison, Millard Fillmore, 
.^ranklin Pierce, James Buchanan, Abraham Lincoln, Andrew Johnson, 
Benjamin Harrison (before his Presidency) ; also Associate Justice 
iiarlan. 

|] At the opposite apex to the E., at 13th St. and New 
'iTork Ave., stands the Masonic Temple, a gray limestone 
tructure, designed by Wood, Bonn and Deming. It con- 
lains a large auditorium used at present mainly for 
Ipoving pictures; also the rooms of the Grand Lodge Library 



2Z^ RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

and the George Washington University Law Library. 
On the N. side of H St, facing the New York Avenue 
Presbyterian Church, at No. 1335 H St., stands the George 
Washington Hospital. No. 1325 is the site of the former 
home of the widbw of Alexander HamiltO'U, first Secretary 
of the Treasury, 

North on 14th St. we reach, at I St. (on E.), Franklin 
Park, occupying the entire square bounded by I and K, 
14th and 15th Sts., and comprising approximately four acres. 
Midway, on the 14th St. side, stands a bronze statue, heroic 
size, of John Barry, Commodore U. S. N. (1745-1803). It 
surmounts a lofty white granite base, in front of which, also 
of white granite, is a female figure representing Freedom, as 
indicated by the symbolic eagle and Liberty cap (erected 1914. 
John J. Boyle, sculptor). 

It is a matter of history that when the Indian tribes of this 
vicinity met in Counqil on the peninsula formed by the Eastern 
Branch and the Potomac River, many a war-dance was celebrated in 
the present Franklin Park. In the early years of the history of 
Washington it became a truck garden, connected with the Van Ness 
estate (p. 170). At the outbreak of the Civil War it was the site of 
the encampment of the 12th New York Volunteers, commanded by 
Gen. Daniel Butterfield. 

Diagonally opposite the Park, at the N. E. cor. of 14th 
and K Sts., is the remodelled Neiv Hamilton Hotel (p. 5) 
and at N. E. cor. the Franklin Square Hotel (p. 5). 

One block N., at the S. E. cor. of L. St., formerly stood 
the All Souls' Unitarian Church. The new church edifice is 
now in course of erection at i6th and Harvard Sts. (p. 203). 

History. The First Unitarian Church dates from 1820, 
when a small congregation met in a room over some public 
baths on C St., between 4^4 and 6th Sts., to listen to the 
sermons of a certain Robert Little. In Nov., 1821 the church 
was organized, its founders including John Quincy Adams, 
John C. Calhoun, the two Joseph Gales, Sr. and Jr. and 
William Winston Seaton (the last two named being propri- i 
etor and editor of the National Intelligencer, Washington's ; 
pioneer newspaper), and Charles Bulfinch, the architect. 
The first church edifice, designed by Bulfinch and dedicated • 
in 1822, stood on the N. E. cor. of 6th and D Sts., where j 
it served its purpose for 55 years. During this time it ' 
numbered among its pastors the Rev. Edward Everett Hale ■' 
(Oct., 1844 to ]^>Iarch, 1845) ; the Rev. Moncure Daniel Con- 
way (1855-56) : and the Rev. Samuel Longfellow, brother 
of the poet. The Rev. William Henry Channing was pastor 
during the Civil War, and was the first clergyman in Wash- 
ington to offer his church for use as a war hospital. The 



OTHER RESIDENTIAL STREETS 22,i 

offer was accepted, and in return the congregation was given 
the use of the Senate Chamber for Sunday services. 

The old church bell, said to be the first in the city, and 
later transferred to the present edifice, was cast in a foundry 
established by Paul Revere, near Boston. Dr. Shippen, one 
of the later pastors, says : 

"Down to 1861 this bell was rung for public purposes. I 
am informed that it tolled a requiem for John Brown on the 
day of his death. Thenceforward it was. denounced by some 
as an abolition bell, and in the exciting times of 1861 its use 
by the city authorities was discontinued." 

This earliest church was attended by two Presidents, John 
Qvixpzy Adams and Millard Fillmore. The second struc- 
ture, dedicated as All Souls', in place of the earlier name of 
First Unitarian, was attended for many years by President 
Taft, who before his election occupied a rear seat near the 
N. W. cor. The Presidential pew was No. 27, 3d pew on L. 
of South aisle (the Sexton explaining that this change of pews 
was necessary, "to keep the congregation from turning their 
heads to look at the President"). 

At M St., 14th St. is interrupted by Thomas Circle, wher& 
Massachusetts and Vermont Ave. intersect. In the centre of 
the Circle stands a monument* to Gen. George H. Thomas 
(1816-70). This statue, in bronze, of heroic size (19 ft.), 
and considered one of the finest equestrian statues in this 
country, was erected with great ceremony in 1879, by the 
Society of the Army of the Cumberland (/. Q. A. Ward, 
sculptor). The total cost was $65,000, to which the fore- 
named Society contributed $40,000. The balance, furnished 
by Congress, paid for the cost of the pedestal, including the 
bronze ornamental lamps, and insignia of the Army of the 
Cumberland. 

General Thomas was a West Point graduate, who had fought in 
the Seminole and Mexican Wars, and had been an instructor at West 
Point. From Major of Volunteer Cavalry he rose to Maior-General in 
the regular army, and is remembered as the "Rock of Chickamauga," 
and hero of Nashville. 

1 At the N. apex of 14th St. and Vermont Ave. stands the 

I statue of Martin Luther (p. 221). 

I At 14th and N Sts. is the Lutheran Eye, Ear and Throat 

Infirmary. Just N., at No. 1321, is the Northern Dispensarv 
\^and Emergency Hospital. 

At 14th and S Sts. is the Washington City Orphan 
, Asylum. Here during 1866-67 the State Department was 

temporarily housed, and here, in 1867, the purchase of Alaska 

was arranged. 



234 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Beyond this point there is nothing of interest to the 
casual visitor. 

e. The Numbered Streets West of Sixteenth Street 

Seventeenth Street north from Pennsylvania Ave- 
nue. Passing the old Corcoran Art Gallery (p. 194), we 
reach, at H St., S. W. cor., the five-story club-house of the 
Metropolitan Club, the wealthiest and most fashionable of 
the social clubs in Washington. According to the constitu- 
tion it was organized "for literary, mutual improvement and 
social purposes." Diagonally opposite, at the N. E. cor. of 
17th and H Sts., is the Richmond Hotel (p. 4.), where Sen- 
ator George F. Hoar formerly lived. Between I and K Sts. 
17th St. passes Farragut Square, crossing Connecticut Ave. 
(p. 222) ; for historic houses at intersection with I and K Sts., 
see pp. 235 and 237. 

North of this point there is little to interest the tourist 
At the S. E. cor. of P St. stands the Plymouth Congrega- 
tional Church. Just E., No. 1620 P St., is the house in which 
Prof. Simon Newcomb, America's greatest astronomer, lived 
and died. 

East of i8th St. on Rhode Island Ave. is St. Matthew's, 
one of Washington's leading R. C, churches. At the S. W. 
cor. of N St. is the former residence of Justice Stanley 
Matthews (served 1881-89). East on N St., No. 1775, was 
the residence of Elihu Root, while Secretary of War, and 
later the home of Senator Chauncey M. Depew. No. 1734 
N St. was formerly the Uruguay Legation. 

West on N St., No. 1810, is the house in which Theodore 
Roosevelt resided while Assistant Secretary of the Navy. 
Just beyond. No. 1820 N St., formerly housed the Sivedish 
Legation. 

No. 1323 i8th St. is the residence of Robert Lansing, 
former Secretary of State. The house at the N. E. cor. of 
P St. was once the home of former Secretary of the Treasury. 
Daniel Manning. Opposite, at N. W. cor. of P St., is the 
home of Miss Mabel Thorp Boardman. of world-wide distinc- 
tion for her services in behalf of the Red Cross Society. East 
on P St., No. 1763, was the home of Mollie Elliott Sewell. 
the novelist. 

Midway between P and Q Sts., at S. E. cor. of i8th and 
Church Sts., is the attractive little P. E. church of St. 
Thomas. It contains a number of fine memorial windows : 

Over Altar, "In the beginning God created the heavens and the 
earth," Genesis 1, 1 (13 panels). Nave, S. side: i. St. Hilda; 2. St. 
Aidan (memorial virindow to Maj. E. K. Webster, U.S.A., 1852-1911); 
3. St. Augustine; 4. Queen Bertha; 5. St, Colomba; 6. St. Patrick; 1 



OTHER RESIDENTIAL STREETS 235 

7, St. Alban; 8, Joseph of Arimathea. Nave, N. side; i. Venerable 
Bede; 2. St. Swithin; 3. Stephen Langton; 4. William Laud; 7- Queen 
Anne; 8. Bishop Seabury. In vestibule, N. window: "Many shall come 
from the East," (three panels). S. window: "Thomas said, 'My Lord 
and my God.'" St. John xx, 28 (three panels). 

On the E. wall of the N. transept is a memorial tablet to Archibald 
Gracie, commemorating his rescue from the steamship Titanic, April 
15th, 1 91 2, and also the fact that, shortly before his death the following 
December, he "proclaimed in this church that his ret-cuc was due to 
the power of prayer." 

At the N. E. cor. of i8th and Q Sts. is the house in which 
John Lee Carroll, former Governor of Maryland, lived and 
died. 

Midway between Q and R Sts., on Corcoran St., No. 
1806, is the Argentine Embassy (1922). 

East on 18th St., at No. 1759, is the home of Thomas 
Nelson Page, formerly occupied by the Italian Embassy. No. 
1742 R St. is the residence of 'Brig.-Gen. Ernest A. Garlington, 
who commanded the Grecly Relief Expedition in 1885. 

Half a mile further N., at the intersection of 18th and 
Co'lumbia Road, is the site of the ill-fated Knickerbocker 
Theatre, which during a severe blizzard in Jan., 1922, suddenly 
collapsed upon the audience during progress of a performance, 
killing approximately 100 persons. A new theatre is now 
(May, 1922) in course of erection. 

Nineteenth Street North of Pennsylvania Avenue. 
No. 1215 19th C>., between M and N Sts., is the house in 
which Theodore Roosevelt resided while Civil Service Com- 
missioner. No. 2001 19th St., at N. E. cor. of U St., is the 
Chinese Legation (1922). The edifice was designed by 
B. Stanley Simmons. 

On the north-and-south streets W. of 19th St. there is 
little of interest to the stranger. 

f. I Street 

The only lettered streets in the residential section which 
offer sufficient attractions to the visitor to require separate 
sections are I and K Sts. Whatever points of interest are 

I to be found in the other lettered streets to the north will be 

: found in the chapters devoted to the nearest adjacent ave- 

I nues or numbered streets. 

I Aside from the squares E. of 3d St. (see North Capitol 
St. Section, ip. 356), there is nothing to interest the visitor 
until we reach the N.E. cor. of I and 13th Sts., where the 
Garfield Apartment Elouse, facing Franklin Sq. (p. 237), 

, occupies the site of the home of James A. Garfield while a 
member of Congress. 

No. 1415 I St. is the former home of Chief Justice Morrison R. 
Waite (1816-88). At the N. E. cor. of I and 15th Sts. is the Bellevue 



2Z(> RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Hotel (p. 5). No, 1535, a red-brick dwelling with mansard roof, was 
the residence of James G. Berret, Mayor of Washington during the 
Civil War. 

I St. now crosses i6th St. (p. 199). No. 1614 I St. was 
formerly the Ecuador Legation. No. 1617 is the former 
residence of the late George W. Riggs, for many years 
partner of W. W. Corcoran. It is now occupied by his 
daughters. No. 1631, now included in the site of the Army 
and Navy Club, was the home of Benjamin F. Tracey while 
Secretary of the Navy, and the scene of the tragic fire in 
wihich Mrs. Tracey lost her life. 

No, 1634 I St. is now occupied by the American Associa- 
tion of University Women, which was recently obliged to 
vacate its first Washington home, the Stockton House, when 
the latter property was acquired by the Chamber of Commerce 
of the United States (p. 222). 

The American Association of University Women was formed in 
Boston in 1882 for the purpose of opening educational opportunities to 
women. Today it represents eighty colleges and universities and its 
membership numbers many thousands. The purchase of a national head- 
quarters was authorized at the biennial convention in St. Louis in 19 19. 
The money for alterations and furnishings of the club house was 
raised by gifts and loans from college women throughout the country. 
$15,000 for the furnishings was pledged by the alumnae of six of the 
larger co'lleges, while those of Wellesley College gave the furnishings 
of the large lounge on the ground floor. The reception room was fur- 
nished by the daughters of former Secretary Lamont in the name of 
Elmira College, and to the memory of their mother, who occupied the 
house for many years. All of the furnishings and memorials were 
removed from the Stockton House and will occupy corresponding posi- 
tions in the Association's! new home. 

No. 1708 I St. was, in the early 8o's, the residence of Postmaster- 
General Timothy O. Howe. No. 171 o, former residence of Mrs. Stanley 
Matthews. No. 171 1, former residence of Paymaster-General Watmough, 
U. S. N. No. 1720, residence of Supreme Court Justice Oliver Wen- 
dell Holmes. No. 1728, once the home of Charles Goodyear, in- 
ventor of vulcanized rubber. 

The Frelinghuysen House, a dignified old mansion with 
Corinthian columns, was successively the home of four Cab- 
inet officers : Theodore Frelinghuysen, and William M. 
Evarts, while respectively Secretary of State; William C. 
Whitney, as Secretary of the Navy; and John Wanamaker, 
as Postmaster-General. Subsequently it was acquired by S. 
S. Howland, son-in-law of August Belmont. No. 1736 was 
the last residence of Jefferson Davis in Washington. 

No. 180 1 I St., at N. W. cor. of i8th St., was built by 
Marshall Brown, father-in-law of Richard Wallach, Mayor 
of Washington. Here was held the first International Amer- 
ican Conference, at which the Pan-American Union was es- 
tablished. The United States delegates included James D. , 
Blaine and AndreW Carnegie. I] 



OTHER RESIDENTIAL STREETS 237 

Nos. 1809-13 are occupied by the Friends' Meeting House 
and School. No. 1826 was the residence of the late Rear 
Admiral Schley. No. 1828 was formerly (about 1878) the 
Austro-Hungarian Legation. No. 1829 was for about ten 
years (until 1902) the Russian Emibassy. 

At 20th St., PVMinsylvania Ave. intersects 1 St. obliquely, 
dividing the broad open rectangle thus formed into two tri- 
angular parks. On the N. side of this rectangle stands No. 
2005 I St., former home of General T. B. Rucker, U.S.A., 
father of General Sherman's widow. No. 2013, residence of 
Admiral Selfridge. /■ No. 2015, residence of General Robert 
Macfcely, U.S.A. jNo. 2917, now the home of the new Arts 
Club, of which th'e sculptor H. K. Bush-Brown is president. 
The ibuilding was occupied for a short time by President 
Madison after he left the Octagon House (p. 209), and 
later by Monroe while Madison's Secretary of State. 

Opposite, across the park, at No. 2018 I St., is the house of Prof. 
Cleveland Abbe (b. 1838), wljo in 1869 inaugurated daily weather 
forecasts, and became widely known as "Old Probs." 

g. K Street from 11th Street to Rock Creek 

K St., W. of nth St., has many interesting associations 
and contains the former homes of more distinguished people 
than any other one of the lettered streets. 

No. 1 1 01, at N. W. cor. of nth and K Sts., is the Strathmore 
Arms, former home of Mrs.. Mary J. Lockwood, author of "liistoTic 
Houses in Washington." No. 1141, former home of John M. Wilson, 
once Superintendent of Publici Grounds and Buildings and Chief oi 
Engineers, U.S.A. At the S. W. cor. of 12th St. is the parsonage of the 
New York Avenue Presbyterian Church (p. 231). Opposite, at No. 
1203 K St., was the home of Commander A. S. Wadsworth. Here his 
nephew, Flenry W. Longfellow, stayed when visiting Washington in 
1839. No. 121 1 was successively the home of the French and the 
P>elgian Legations. 

K St. here passes Franklin Park (on S.). The large red 
brick dwelling at the N. W. cor. of K and 13th Sts. was the 
Mexican Legation at the close of the Civil War; subse- 
quently it was occupied by the Netherlands Legation, and 
was, for a time, the home of Senator Roscoe Conkling. No. 
1303, immediately adjoining it, was the home of Supreme 
Court Justice Noah H. Swain (1804-84). No. 1307 is the 
house used for the meetings of the Joint High Commission, 
which framed the Treaty of Washington, settling the 
Alabama Claims ; and here the treaty was signed May 8th, 
1871. No. 13 1 1 is the house built by Ben Holiday, who 
operated a Pony Express across the continent before the 
Union Pacific Railway was built. Later it was successively 
the home of J. W. Noble, Secretary of the Interior, and of 
Justice Howell E. Jackson. 



238 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

The S. E. cor. of 13th and K Sts. is occupied by the 
Franklin School. 

No. 1321, a large gray limestone house with elaborately 
carved Facade, was built by Secretary of State John Sher- 
man, who lived and died here. No. 1323, once the residence 
of Edward M. Stanton, Secretary of War, who died here. 
No. 1403, one of the former homes of 3enator Arthur P. 
Gorman. No. 1426, former residence of John G. Carlyle 
(Ky.), Speaker of the House, U. S. Senator and Secretary 
of the Treasury. No. 1428, former home of Admiral 
Worden, Commander of the Monitor during her fight with 
the Mcrrimac. No. 1432, former home of Supreme Court 
Justice Samuel Blatchford (1820-93). 

No. 1537 K St.. a granite and yellow brick structure, 
was the home of Philander C. Knox while successively 
Attorney-General and Secretary of State. (For Anderson 
and Everts houses, at intersection with i6th St. see p. 199.) 

No. 1601 K St. was the last home of Admiral George 
Dewey, who died here. No. 1603 K St. was the home of 
William H. Taft while Secretary of War, and here he 
received the news of his nomination for the Presidency. No. 
1609 was the former home of Senator Wetmore of Rhode 
Island; also of one-time Postmaster Gener.al Wilson S. Bissell. 
No. 1612 was the residence of Robert Bacon while Assistant 
Secretary of State. No. 1623, formerly the home of Secretary 
of the Interior Hoke Smith, and later occupied by the Rev. 
Randolph Harrison McKim, when Rector of Epiphany Church. 
No. 1626, former home of Senator Stephen B, Elkins 
of Virginia. 

No. 1627 K St. is the residence of Col. Jerome Bona- 
parte, great-grandnephew of Napoleon. It is a conspicuous 
edifice in French i6th century Gothic {Gray and Pope, 
architects). No. 1632, on S. E. cor. of 17th St., was the home 
of the late Vinnie Ream Hoxie, wife of Lieut. R. L. Hoxie, 
U.S.A. 

Mrs. Hoxie (1847-1914) was one of the best known women sculptors 
in America. She studied under Bonnat in Paris, and under Majoli in 
Rome. While abroad she modeled Cardinal Antonelli and Liszt. Ex- 
amples of her work in Washington inclufle the Lincoln statue in the 
Rotunda of the Capitol, Governor Kirkwood and Sequoyah, a Cherokee 
Chief (p. 96) both in Statuary Hall; Farragut, in Farragut Square 
(p. 222) and ner own monument in Arlington Cemetery (p. 511). 

K St. now passes the northern end of Farragut Square 
(p. 222). Facing the Square, at the N. W. cor. of 17th St.. 
is the house occupied by Charles W. Fairbanks when Vice- 
President. No. 1703, once the Chilean Legation, is now the 



OTHER RESIDENTIAL STREETS 239 

home of Charles Carroll Glover, a distinguished Washington 
financier, and President of the Riggs National Bank. 
No. 1705, site of former home of Don Cameron (about 
1879) ; then successively Chinese and Russian Legations. It 
was erected and occupied by Alexander R. Shepherd after he 
was Governor. 

No. 1730 K St. was the earlier Washington home of Dr. 
Swan M. and Mrs. Frances Hodgson Burnett. "Little Lord 
Fauntleroy" was written here. 

Five squares W., at 2203 K St., is the home of Dr. 
Charles Greeley Abbot, Director, since 1907, of the Smith- 
sonian Astrophysical Observatory. 

One square further W., at Washington Circle, K St. and 
Pennsylvania intersect. Beyond, at Nos. 2506 and 2508, and 
still further W. at No. 2618-20 there still stand some ancient 
looking brick dwellings in fair preservation, althoug'h dating 
from 11798. They were built by Robert Peter, one of the 
Original Proprietors of Washington City, who married Martha 
Washington's granddaughter, Martha Parke Custis. When 
built they stood upon what was then the highway from 
Georgetown to the Capital City. George Washington was 
a frequent visitor at No. 2618-20 when it was occupied by the 
Peters ; and a bronze tablet beside the entrance records that 
he passed the night there on the occasion of his last visit to 
the Capital. 



240 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 



WASHINGTON SOUTHWEST AND 
THE MALL 

I. The Mall from the Botanic Gardens to 
Fourteenth Street 

*The Mall (PI. Ill— E4), one of the main arteries of the 
city's park system, extends westward from the Capitol Grounds 
1Y2 miles, connecting with the Executive Grounds on the N. and 
with Potomac Park on the W. It comprises (from E. to W.) : 
I, The Botanical Gardens; 2. the Public Gardens; 3. Armory 
Square; 4. the Smithsonian Grounds; 5. the Agricultural 
Grounds ; 6. the Monument Grounds. The first two of these 
divisions are triangular in shape; but W. of 6th St. the 
Mall has a uniform width of approximately a quarter-mile, 
extending from B St. North to B St. South. 

.The E, end of the Mall abuts on First St., directly op- 
posite the western stairway and portico of the Capitol, and 
extends from the circle at the foot of Pennsylvania Ave., 
containing the Peace Monument (p. 97), to that at foot 
of Maryland Ave., occupied by the James A. Garfield Me- 
morial. This monument, the gift of the Society of the 
Army of the Potomac, was designed by /. Q. A. Ward, and 
consists of a standing portrait statue in bronze, heroic size, 
surmounting a lofty triangular pedestal, at the three cor- 
ners of which are three seated male figures, symbolizing 
The Student, The Warrior and The Statesman, — the three 
successive phases of Garfield's career. Erected in 1887 at 
a cost of $65,000, one-half of which was contributed by 
Congress to pay for the pedestal and symbolic figures. 

Radical changes in the Mall are among the chief factors in tlie 
elaborate plans for beautifying Washington, as formulated by the Art 
CoanmLssion, and submitted to Congress in 1901. The leading features 
of these changes, wliich involved a protracted battle with one Con- 
gressional coimmittae after another were: first, the ckHnplcte removal 
of the Botanic Gardens, and restoration of the wide, oipen square 
conteTni)Iated in L'Knf ant's original plan; secondly, the substitution of 
a new main, axis for the Mall, in place of the preselnt axis, for the 
purpose of rectifying tlie mistake or oversight of tlie bmldersl of the 
Washington Monument in placing that Mcmiorial more than 100 ft. 
southeast of the true line. This latter change was accomi>lished by 
drawing a new line from the Dome of the Capitol through the Wash- 
ington Monument, and prolonging it to the Potomac, to serve also as 
the axis for the Lincoln Memorial that was part of the Art Commission's 
plan. It was proposed alsio that all the central trees and shrubbery 



THE MALL 241 

filiould be cleared away, leaving a smooth carpet of greensward 300 ft. 
wide, with two lines oi stately elms plantedi in columnsi oi four, one 
ciolumn on each side, thus bringing! the Monument into the vista of the 
Cai)itol, a mile and a half away. The new axis is now' an accomplished 
fact, and the three great Memorials to Wiaishington, Lincoln and Grant 
conform to it. The Botanic Gardens, however, stubbornly hold their 
ground, and bid fair to delay for some( time to come the full realization 
of the Art Commission's plans. 

a. The Botanic Gardens 

The Botanic Gardens (PI. I — D3). These Gardens, oc- 
cupying- the truncated triangle lying between Pennsylvania and 
New Jersey Aves., ist and 3rd Sts., contain the Grant Memorial 
Monument, ik^Bartholdi Fountain, a number of fine old His- 
toric Trees, ivA a system of Conservatories housing rare p'lants 
from all parts of the world. The gardens are open to the 
pii'blic daily from sunrise to sunset; conservatories open from 
8 a.m. to 4 :30 p.m. ; on Sunday only the main conservatory is 
open. 

History. The Botanic Gardens were established by the 
Columbian Institute for the Promotion of Arts and Sciences, 
jncorporated by Act of Congress April 20th, 1818. The pres- 
ent site was granted by Congress in 1820 and there is a tradi- 
tion that George Washington contemplated the establishment 
of gardens in this locality. Up to 1836 no- improvements had 
been made. The tract was a stagnant and malarial swamp, and 
jCongress was prevailed upon to make an appropriation of 
$5000 for improvements, including pipes to convey the surplus 
water from the Capitol, and the purchase of a fountain to be 
designed by Hiram Pozvers. 

! The real beginning, however, of the Botanic Gardens 
^ates from the Wilkes Exploring Expedition of 1838-42. In 
;he Naval Appropriation Act of May 14th, 1836, the Presi- 
dent was authorized to send out a surveying and exploring 
expedition to the Pacific and South Seas. This expedition 
'onsisted of six Government ships, under Lieut. Charles 
vVilkes, U. S. N. They sailed August i8th, 1838. The staff 
ncluded a botanist, W. D. Breckenridge, who brought back 
1 large collection of specimens, including seeds and cuttings. 
Phis formed the nucleus of the Botanical collection. The 
•resent site, however, was not occupied until 1850, and the 
nain conservatory building, a structure 30 ft. long, with a 
ucntral dome 60 ft. high, was not erected until 1867. 
1 The Gardens in their preistent location are a serious obstacle 
p the comprehensive scheme for beautifying Washington 
[P« 354) > and the present available space is wholly inadequate 
jor the development of a National Botanic Garden on the 



242 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

same liberal lines as the Rock Creek Zoological Park. Yet, 
although their removal to some suburban tract has been stead- 
ily urged for more than 20 years, public indifference and active 
opposition have united to keep them where they are. As 
recently as Feb., 1922, a plan was announced for incorporating 
them as a part of the comprehensive scheme for beautifying 
Washington, through the acquisition of a broad strip of land 
south of the present gardens, all the way to the river. 

"Among scientists the Boitanic Garden has no partictular standing 
for it has long been regarded as a joke, and quite unwoithy of the 
Government of the United States. Being under control of the Con- 
gressional Joint Committee on the Library, it is practically an inde- 
pendent institution wihout guidance, direction orai.;^jponsibility." — 
Charles Moore. "Daniel H. Burnham." 

b. The Grant Memorial Monument 

The *Grant Memorial Monument (PI. I — D4), unveiled 
April 2y, 1922, the centenary of Grant's birth, is situated at thi^ 
end of the Botanical Gardens, with its center on the line of 
the newly established axis of the Mall, and a few feet S. of 
the old axis. This monument was authorized in February. 
1901, when Congress appropriated $250,000. In August, 1902, 
the contract was awarded for $240,000 to Edward Pearce 
Casey, architect, and Henry Merwin Shrady, sculptor, and 
constituted the largest Government contract thus far awarded 
for any single piece of monumental sculpture. There followed 
a protracted discussion regarding choice of location, the White' 
House grounds and the Union Station Plaza being both^ 
strongly urged. Finally the present site, representing the' 
choice of the Art Commission, and individually indorsed by 
Augustus Saint-Gaudens, Charles F. McKim. Daniel Chester! 
French and other prominent artists, was decided upon. Work| 
upon the foundation was begun October 7, 1907, but was 
stopped two days later by an injunction intended to prevent- 
ihe necessary removal of three historic trees, including thc\ 
Crittenden Peace Oak. There followed protracted hearini 
before the Joint Library Committee, which had the matter ir^ 
charge. The opposition was headed by the venerable Dr, 
William Ri. Smith, for 55 years Superintendent of the Botanic* 
Gardens. No decision was reached until Secretary Taft ap 
peared before the Committee and emphatically stated that tlii: 
site had been selected for the Grant Memorial, because it wa 
an essential part of the Park Commission's comprehensivi 
plans for improvement. The outcome was that the Crittendei 
and Beck trees were moved, and the work on the Memoriaj; 
went forward. 



THE MALL 243 

In the course of these hearings the interesting fact was revealed 
that a large^ proportion of the trees contained in it are historic!, having 
been planted 'by famous men, both Americans and foreigners. It was 
found necessary, however, to conceal the identity of these tree® from 
the public, as thel only .practical means of saving themi fromi vandalism. 

The marble superstructure of the Memorral, 262 ft. long 
by 69 ft. in widtli, consists of a terraced platform surmounted 
by three pedestals, the central and loftiest of which supports 
an equestrian figure of Grant colossal heroic size. At the 
four corners of this pedestal are recumbent lions. The N. 
and S. pedestals support respectively spirited bronze groups 
representing .Cavalry and Artillery. The third branch of 
the service, Infantry, will be represented in two bas-relief 
panels that are yet to be placed on the N. and S. sides of the 
main pedestal. These groups face inward, and picture a mad 
rush toward the center, across the wide stretch of white marble 
that separates them from the mounted figure of Grant. 

The General is portrayed wearing the familiar slouch hat 
and army cloak of his Civil War ompaigns. His pose is that 
pf a reviewing officer, and his characteristic serenity is empha- 
sized by the fiery spirit of the huge stallion he bestrides. This 
Memorial is said to be exceeded in height, among equestrian 
itatues, only by that of Victor Emmanuel in Rome.v Some idea 
)f the size and proportions of the Memorial as a whole is con- 
veyed by the statement that the Cavalry group alone weighs 
5 tons. Special Artillery and Cavalry drills were given at 
Nest Point and other posts to aid the sculptor in the develop- 
ment of his design. Mr. Shrady spent upward of 15 years 
ipon these sculptures. He died in New York April 13 1022 
ust two weeks before the dedication of the Monument. 

At the ceremony of the unveiling, among those present 
rere the Princess Cantacuzene, granddaughter of General 
rrant, and her little daughter Ida, who unveiled the statue 
he principal speaker, Vice President Coolidge, characterized 
.rant as having "lived the great realities of life," adding that 
IS Lincoln could put truth into words, so Grant could out 
uth into action." 

"Few of the people who now gaze through the iron fence can 
^ahze the transformation planned when the Memorial to General Grant 
as located in the grounds of the Botanic Gardens . Of the 

-aina and heart's blood that have gone into this work,, the future will 
ii. ioday It stands in thel alien companv of an overpowering cast-iron 
aintam and towering greenhouses. Some day high wall and iron 
nee, fountain and greenhouses will be cast aside like a cocooji and 
en will appear the great square designed by L'Enfant as the he4d of 

Mall, with the Grant Memorial as its chief ornament."— C^ar/^^ 



oore. 



244 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

-Midway in the gardens, and N. of the main conservar 
tory. stands the Bartholdi Fountain, designed by Auguste Bar- 
tholdi, the French sculptor, who also designed the Statue of 
Liberty in New York Harbor. This fountain was one of the 
attractions at the Centennial Exposition of 1876, and cost 
$6000. 

The Historic Trees in the Gardens are not labelled, but can most 
of them be easily identified. The Crittenden Oak, of the mos y overcup 
variety, stands close to the E. gale, and was planted by John J. 
Crittenden to mark the spot of a debate between several statesmen, 
in which he made a fine but unavailing' effort for peace between the 
North and South. A few feet S. of this oak stands the l^eck-Washington 
Elm, a scion of the elm planted by Washmgton at the west front ot 
the Capitol. The parent tree died fromj injury to its roots when the 
present marble terrace was constructed. One of the* most mterestint; 
trees is an Oriental Plane standing at the west end of the Gardens 
the seed of which came from the Vale of Cashmere and was planted 
by Thaddeus Stevens. This and one other Plane Tree planted ni 
Ldncoln Square from the same consignment of seeds, are the parents O! 
all the Oriental Plane trees in Washington. Near this parent 1 Ian- 
stand the following' trees: a British " Oak, planted by Mr. Bayard or 
Delaware, while American Ambassador to England, a cut-leaved Oriental 
Sycamore, planted by Senator Daniel Voorhies; and an Aipencan Oak, 
planted by President Hayes. Near the E. end of the conservatory is 
Jefferson Davis's Tree, a Monterey Cypress, a; species discovered in the 
mountains of the trans-Mississippi country by government explorers 
when seeking- a practical trans-continentali route. Afthe S. front of the 
main conservatory are two tall Cy^iress trees of the Bald variety, 
planted respectively by John W. Forney, a journalist, and Edwin Forrest, 
the aictor. Nearby is a Chinese Oak, raised from seed growing at the 
grave of Confucius. It was a gift from the garden of Charles A. Dana, 
and was planted by Representative Cummings of New \ oa-k. On the S. 
walk of the Gardens are two Cedars of Lebanon, planted respectively by 
Senator Ploar and Senator Everts. Near the S. front of the Extra- 
Trcjoical greenhouse is thei Albert Piket Acacia, a tree of Masonry; audi 
near it is another Acacia raised from a sprig of the Acacia wreath placed 
by Masons on the bier of Garfield. f 

Beyond the Botanic Gardens is a second and smallei 
triangle, the Public Gardens, with apex on 3d St. and bas< 
on 6th St., its other two sides being bounded hy Maine anci 
Missouri Aves. It is divided by 4^ St. into two section; j{ 
known officiailly as East and West Seaton IP ark, both of whicHj 
were added by Act of Congress, 1917, to the area of th.^' 
Botanical Gardens. 

Facing the Public Gardens. No. 467 Missouri Ave., wai| 
the residence of John Tyler before he became President. 

Armory Square, a narrow parallelogram lying betwec 
6th and 7th Sts., contains at its N. E. cor. the site of th 
former Baltimore and Ohio R.R. Station, where President Gu 
field was shot by Charles Guiteau, July 2d, 1881. This co» 
ner is at present used for tennis-grounds. It has. howevr 
been donated by the Government for the proposed Geor^;. 



THE MALL 245 

Washington Memorial, for which more than $300,000 have 
already been raised. 

The proposed Memorial is to be a four-story structure on the 
Grecian order of architecture. On the ground iloor there is to be a 
large auditorium, with a seating capacity of 7,000; also seven con- 
vention halls seating from 500 . to 2,500. Behind the Auditorium 
balcony will be a banquet hall accommodating 700 diners. 

The second and third floors will contain upward of 100 rooms, of 
which each State in the Union will have one, for display purposes. 
Various patriotic organizations, such as the Colonial Dames, are paying 
for certain rooms, which will be their property in perpetuity. The 
price asked for these rooms is $25.00 per square foot. 

The fourth floor will contain a memorial to the Signers of the 
Declaration of Indeiiendence; also a Washington Museum, in charge 
of the George Washington Memorial Association. 

A large drawing of the design for the building, approved by the 
National Fine Arts Committee was temporarily placed on exhibition in the 
basement of the New National Museum in April, 19 17. The main 
fagade has a colonnade of sixteen Ionic columns, above which is 
inscribed, "Let us raise a standard to which the wise and honest 
can repair. The event is in the hands of God." The cost, including 
endowment fund for maintenance, is to be $2,500,000. Tracy and 
Swartwout, architects. 

Much of the area both of the Public Gardens and of 
Armory Square, is still disfigured by the ungainly bulk of 
temporary Government buildings hastily erected during the 
War, and still housing certain branches of the Executive 
Departments, such as the Bureau of Census (Building D) and 
the U. S. Employees' Compensation Commission (Building 
F). 

c. The Bureau of Fisheries 

*The Bureau of Fisheries (PI. I — C4), containing a small 
but interesting Aquarium, is in the Mall, at 6th and B Sts., 
^. W., in the so-called Armory building, a rectangular three- 
story brick structure, erected in 1855 as an Armory for the 
'District iMilitia. When, at the close of the Civil War, the 
regiments v^ere mustered out, the building was no longer 
needed for its orignal purposes. It was used for a time 
(until the completion of the old National Museum, p. 322) as 
1 storehouse for the exhibits acquired by the Smithsonian 
[nstitution from the Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia. 
Aquarium open dail}'-, excepting Sundays and holidays, 9 
\. M. to 4:30 P. M. 

History. The Bureau of Fisheries was instituted in 187 [ 
)y an Act of Congress, creating the office of Commissioner 
)f Fish and Fisheries, to be filled by a civil officer of the 
jovernment properly qualified, who was to serve without 
ompensation. The first Commissioner was Prof. Snencer 



246 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

F. Baird subsequently Secretary of the Smithsonian Institu- 
tion, who served until his death in 1887. The growth of the 
Bureau had then become so rapid that the -office of Commis- 
sioner was divorced from other governmental work with an 
independent salary. The organization remained directly re- 
sponsible to Congress until 1903^ when it was made a bureau 
in the new Department of Commerce. In addition to the 
propagation of useful food fishes and their distribution, the 
investigation of American fishing grounds and compilation of 
statistics, the duties of the Bureau now include the administra- 
tion of the salmion fisheries of Alaska, the fur-sealed herd on 
the IPribilof Isands, and the protection of sponges off the 
coast of Florida. 

Scope of work. As originally constituted the Bureau was an insti- 
tution, "for investigating the condition of fisheries in respect tO' their 
alleged depletion, the causes which may have led to their impoverish- 
ment, and the means by which they might be conserved and their 
productiveness increased. ' It was at once seen that the remedy was 
through the agency of fish culture, and an appropriation to this end 
was promptly obtained from Congresis. 

The work began experimentally in 1872 when a few salmon and 
shad were hatahed and .planted. By 1880 eight specimens of fish were 
being distributed on an extensive scale, and experiments with other 
species were being conducted. The work has now grown tO' enormous 
proportions. During the fiscal year 1921 the Bureau handled some 
fifty specimens of fish, the fresh-water mussel and lobster. The official 
summary of distribution during this year shows (including eggs, fry. 
"fingerlings," yearlings and adults) a total number of 4,962,489,405. Of 
the separate species, the following figures are fairly representative of 
the choicer and the rarer types: Whitefish, 420,450,000; Haddock, 
460,820,000; Chinook Salmon, 39,560,765; Brook Trout, 12,058,845: 
Rainbow Trout, 6,839,565; Large-mouth Black Bass, 1,846,955. 

These enormous distributions are made entirely free of cost, ex- 
cept cartage from point of delivery. Any individual or association may 
send in applications on blanks provided by the Bureau. The endorse- 
ment of a Senator or Representative is required. The Bureau has now 
36 stations and 94 sub-stations, located in 34 states and in Alaska. It 
has its special delivery cars and system of messengers, the distribution 
of a single year involving over 600,000 miles of travel. 

The main entrance is on the N. or Mall side, opening' 
upon the Central exhibition room. On L. are incubation] 
troughs, containing: i. Specimens of eggs or fry of trout,: 
salmon, etc., varying with the season of the year (each spe-, 
ciesi having its own date of incubation) ; 2. In centre : Large ^ 
tank formerly containing a pair of Fur-Seals (male and^ 
female), the only Fur-Seals ever reared in captivity.^ It isj 
now occupied by a miscellaneous collection of species, includ- 
ing Catfish and Carp. 

One of the most important funations of the Bureau of Fisheries isf' 
its entire administrative control of the Pribilof Islands, including tile 
native inhabitants and the Inir-Seal herds which resort to the Island?; 
during breeding season. This involves also the enforcement of tli« 



THE MALL 247 

laws relating to the fisheries and taking of fur-bearing animals in Alaska. 
The annual value of the Alaskan fishery products is approximately 
$20,000,000, more than two and one-half times the original purchase 
cost of Alaska. 

South of the large tank are exhibition cases containing: 
Collection illustrating results of the Bureau's experiments in 
artificial propagation and growth of sponges of commercial 
value; An adjacent collection (for purposes of comparison) 
of foreign sponges, illustrating the commercial varie- 
ties derived, from the Mediterranean and Caribbean iSea, 
the Gulf of Mexico and Bahama Islands; Exhibition of 
Fresh-water mussels; Fresh-water pearls; and pearl shell 
suitable for buttons, with examples of pearl buttons in various 
stages of development ; On S. Wall : Bronze memorial Tablet 
to Spencer Fullerton Baird (1823-87). This tablet contains, 
besides the low-relief portrait, the following tribute: 

"Founder and Organizer of the U. S. Bureau of Fisheries; Comrnis- 
sioner of (Fisheries 1871-87. He devoted his life to the) public service, 
and through the application of science to fish culture and the fisheries, 
gave his country world-wide distinction. His co-workers and followers 
in this field dedicate this tablet on the anniversary of the establishment 
of the fishery service February 9, 1916." 

The central door on W. opens directly upon a T-shaped 
extension, lined with a series of twenty-eight wall tanks con- 
taining approximately 25 species of fish. These exhibits are 
arranged as follows (from R. to L.), beginning on the N. 
side: 

Main Aisle (E. to W.) : i. Bream; 2. Roach; 3. Sucker; 
4. Channel Catfish; 5. Yellow Catfish; 6. Little Sunfish. 

Transverse Aisle, East Wall (S. to N.) : i. Gar Pike; 2. Small- 
mouth Black Bass; 3- (N. Wall) Carp; 4. (W. Wall) Crappie; 5. Pearl 
Roacih; 6. Gold Fish: 7. Large-mouth Black Bass; 8. Yellow Perch; 
9. Rock Bass; 10. Small-mouth Black Bass; 11. (S, Wall) Bowfin; 
12. (E. Wall) Albino Brook Trout; 13-14, Rainbow Trout; 15. Brook 
Trout. 

' Main Aisle, South Side: i. Gold Fish; 2, Black Bass; 3. Common 
Sunfisih; 4. Pike Perch; 5. Yellow Perch; 6. Gold Fish. 
; In Commissioner's room and hallway on second floor are portraits 
of former Commissioners: i. Spencer F. Baird, 1871-77; 2. G. B. 
Goode, 1887-89; 3. Marshall McDonald, 1888-95; 4. John J. Brice, 
1896-98; 5. George M. Bowers, 1898. 

' The library, on third floor, is open to the public for refer- 

mce. It contains approximately 30,000 volumes, and is strong 

)n ichthyology, fish culture, commercial fisheries and ocean- 

Igraphy. 

\ d. The Army Medical Museum 

The Smithsonian Grounds (PI. V— B4), forming an al- 
most perfect square, extend from 7th to 12th ;Sts., and con- 
lin the bviilciin.g& of gix important artistic and scientific insti- 



248 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

tutions: i. The Army Medical Aluseum ; 2. the Old National 
Museum ; 3. the New National Museum ; 4 the Smithsonian 
Institution ; 5. the Astrophysical Observatory ; 6. the Freer Art 
Museum, now in course of construction. 

Directly W. of the Bureau of Fisheries, at the N. W. 
cor. of 7th and B Sts. S. W., stands the Army Medical 
Museum Building (PI. I — ^04), a plain red hrick structure 
consisting of basement and three stories, with a frontage of 
232 ft. and three wings extending back 136 ft. (erected 1886- 
88; Oluss and Schulze, architects). 

The Museum was founded and a large -and important 
part of its medical and surgical exhibits were collected during 
the Civil War. For approximately twenty years it was housed 
in the historic Ford's Theatre, on loth St. (p-. 145), from 
which it was removed to its present quarters in 1887. The 
collection is said to be the richest in the world in specimens 
illustrating the results of gun-shot wounds, and in the surgical 
instruments which such wounds necessitate. 

In addition to administrative offices, laboratories, etc., 
the building contains the Aluseum and Medical Library, both 
comprised within a Bureau of the War Department, under 
the direct control of the Surgeon General. ' They are 
open free to the public daily, except Sundays and holidays, 
from 9 A. M. to 4.30 P. M. Unlike most anatomical museums, 
no notices are posted restricting admission on the ground of 
sex or age. The museum is located on the second floor, at 
the E. end of main hall, and rises through two stories of the 
entire east wing, with a gallery encircling all four sides. The 
collection is naturally of primary interest to physicians and 
surgeons ; but it merits more than a cursory inspection by 
any other visitor sufficiently stoic to face its gruesome details. 
The collection comprises a vast array of human bones, skulls, 
etc., showing every imaginable form of fracture and muti- 
lation; human tissues (skin, muscles and internal organs), 
both healthy and diseased, in jars of preserving fluid; andj 
minutely accurate reproductions in colored wax, life size.' 
showing the process of healing wounds, the spread of skin- 
diseases and the successive stages of malignant growths. | 

The exhibits are all fully labeled. The S. end caoe.lj 
contain an extensive collection of microscopes and other ap-" 
paratus used in modern bacteriological research. The upv 
right cases along both E. and W. walls are devoted mainh'] 
to tumors and other local diseases of the internal organs 
fibrous tumors; cancers and abscesses of the liver; tuimor" 
and cancers of the peritoneum ; intestinal diseases and in|[ 



THE MALL 249 

juries; appendicitis; diseases of the mouth and oesophagus, 
etc. The last few cases on the S. E., while no less patho- 
logical, offer the relief of diversity, containing: i. Animal 
parasites and diseases (Tape-worm, Hook-worm, Trichina, 
Botfly, etc.); 2. Vegetable parasites and. diseases; 3. Mon- 
strosities (both human specimens and lower animals). The 
central cases contain exhibits illustrating pathological effects 
upon the human tissues (skin, heart, liver, lungs, etc.). 
wrought by the more deadly contagious diseases, including: 
Typhoid, Tuberculosis, Yellow Fever, Beri-beri, Small-pox, 
Epidemic Cholera, Leprosy, Bubonic Plague, Glanders, Pneu- 
monia, Diphtheria and Cerebro-spinal Meningitis. 

The collection of *Surgical Instruments is contained in 
a series of table cases in front of E. and W. windows. They 
are arranged historically, beginning with reproductions of 
ancient Roman instruments found in Pompeii, and coming 
down to the American Army Surgeon's kit of the Civil War 
period, the Spanish-American War and the present day. 

Surmounting the central cases are portrait 'busts of great 
anatomists of the past including Galen, Linnaeus, Cuvier, 
Agassiz and Oliver Wendell 'Holmes. 

The gallery exhibits, reached hy stairs at S. W. cor., 
consist chiefly of bones showing gunshot fractures ; also dis- 
locations and abnormalities. The first case on W. wall, 
opposite stairs, should not be missed, for it contains a few 
historic relics possessing a grim interest. They include : 
^Vertebrae from the neck of Wilkes Booth, showing fcullet 
wound made by Boston Corbett ; Hair from around the 
wound on Lincoln's head ; Skull and Spleen of Charles 
Suiteau, assassin of Garfield; Armbones of Gen. Daniel F. 
Sickles; plaster cast of Brain of Laura Bridgman, the famous 
deaf-mute; plaster cast of Armbone of David Livingstone, the 
African explorer, showing fracture caused by bite of lion ; 
Skull preserved for pathoilogical reasons, but happening by 
coincidence to be that of a ''funny old woman who was an 
upper domesitic" in a hotel where Dickens stayed at Sandusky, 
3hio (sec American Notes). 

jl The special *Hookwor7n Disease Exhibit, arranged by 
iiie International Health Commission, Rockefeller Founda- 
ion, is in a small room reached through middle door of west 
fallery. The exhibit includes : i. a series of cases showing 
he life cycle of the hookworm, by means of models magnified 
from 42 to 600 times ; wax models of hands and feet, showing 
ijhe characteristic inflammation or "Grounditch," caused by the 
nntering eml)ryos; life-size models of boys in advanced stages 



250 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

of the disease; 2. reduced models of a typical southern log 
cabin and surroundings, showing, first, the slovenly and in- 
sanitary conditions that foster the hook-worm ; secondly, the 
transformation wrought by sanitation ; 3. charts, maps, photo- 
graphs and statistics, showing the percentage of victims in 
the infected areas. The exhibit is a model of its kind in 
clearness and convincing force. 

The Army Medical Library is at the opposite end of the 
of the building, in the west wing. It is a reference library; 
but books are lent to the medical profession. Resources about 
190,000 volumes and about twice as many pamphlets. 

This library was begun by Surg. Gen, Lovell prior to 1836, and 
for many years consisted of a small collection kept solely for the use 
of the Surgeon General's office, amounting at the time of the Civil 
War to barely 400 vohimes. Ii^ithe fall of 1865 Dr. John Shaw liill- 
ings became librarian, and under his administration b^gan a remarkable 
growth which has resulted in making this the leading medical library 
of the world. 

The only objects of interest to the casual visitor are some 
exhibits of rare and curious old medical works in table cases; 
and portraits, chiefly of former Surgeon Generals, on the 
walls. The latter include: West Wall (R. to L.) : i, Benja- 
min Fordyce Barker (1818-91); 2. Samuel G. Morton (1799- 
1851) ; 3, John Hunter (1728-93), a physiological writer on 
surgery, copy after Joshua Reynolds; Philip Byng Physick 
(1768-1837), by Rembrandt Peale.. South Wall: i. John S. 
Billings (in charge of library 1865-95), "presented by 250 
physicians of America and Great Britain" ; 2. James Tilton, 
Surg. Gen., 1813-15 ; 3. Joseph Lovell, Surg. Gen. 1818-36. 
East Wall : i. Thomas Larson, Surg. Gen. 1836-61 ; 2. Clement 
A. Finley, Surg. Gen. 1861-62; 3. Joseph K. Bangs, Surg. Gen. 
1864-82; 4. R. M. O'Reilly, Surg. Gen. 1901-09; 5. Charles H. 
Crane, Surg. Gen., 1882-83. North Wall : 1,. M. F. X. Bchat, 
1771-1802; 2. Robert Fletcher, M.R.C.S., Eng., Principal Assist- 
ant Librarian, (1876-1912) ; 3. Thomas G. Mower, 1790-1853. 

In the Smithsonian grounds, N. W. from the Medical 
Museum, stands a bronze statue of Prof. Samuel D. Gross, 
M.D. (1805-84). -inodeled by Alexander Sterling Colder 
(1870- ), and cast in Paris l)y Jaboeuf & Bacout. It was 
erected in 1897 by the American Surgical Association, and 
the Alumni Association of the Jefferson Medical College. 
The inscription reads: "American Physicians erected this 
statue to commemorate the great deeds of a man wlio made 
such an impression upon American surgery that it has,, 
served to dignify American medicine." \\ 



THE MALL 251 

Midway between the Army Medical Museum and the 
Old Museum, officially known as the Arts and Industries 
Building of the [National Museum (cor. 9th and B Sts. S.W.) 
stands a memorial to Louis Jacques Mande Daguerre (1789- 
1851), inventor of the Daguerreotype process. It consists of 
a huge sphere of polished dark gray granite, surmounting a 
massive square pedestal. Resting against the sphere, at N.W. 
cor., is a bronze medallion portrait of Daguerre. A par- 
tially draped female figure of bronze, life-size, half kneel- 
ing, is draping both medallion and sphere with a bronze 
garland. Jonathan Scott Hartley, sculptor. 

The Arts and Industries Building is described on p. 322. 

Immediately adjoining the Old Museum on the W., is 
the original building of the Smithsonian Institution (PI. I — 
B4), out of which have grown the National Museum, the 
National Art Gallery, and various other activities, all of 
which, except the Simithsonian itself, are supported by appro- 
priations by Congress. For description isee p. 255. 

j South of the Smithsonian Institution is a group of 
I frame buildings constituting the Astrophysical Observatory. 
This observatory investigates the radiation of the sun, and 
its relation to the temperature of the earth. It has ob- 
servation stations on Mt. Wilson, Cal., Mt. Harqua Hala, 
Ariz, and Mt. Montezuma, Chile. In this same group is a 
ismall metal building facing on B St., S. W., and now serving 
as — 

The Aircraft Building of the National Museum. It con- 
tains a collection of aircraft and accessories illustrating the 
progress of aeronautics during the World War. Open to the 
public week days from 9 A. M. to 4.30 P. M. 

Immediately W. of the Astrophysical Observatory, at 
the S. W. cor. of the Smithsonian grounds (cor. 12th and 
B Sts. SwW.) is the new Freer Museum, which will be opened 
■o the public as soon as the collection, recently installed, has 
jeen comipletely catalogued and arranged. For description 
ke p. 339. 

I Directly opposite the Smithsonian Building on the N. side 
t)f the Mall is the recently erected "New Museum," officially 
mown as the Natural History Building of the National 
Museum (for description see p. 260). About 100 ft. S. E. of 
he Museum building stands a Marble Urn, erected as "A 
VIemorial to Andrew Jackson Downing (1815-52) a Landscape 
pardener who laid out the parks between the Capitol and 
'he Potomac, the White House Park and Lafayette Park." 



252 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

This memorial was erected in accordance with a resolution passed 
at Philadelphia in September, 1852, by the American Pomological 
Society, of which Mr. Downing was one of the founders. 

e. The Agricultural Department Buildings 

The Agricultural Grounds (PI. I — A3), occupy the sec- 
tion of the Mall lying between 12th and 14th Sts., comprising 
about 40 acresi. The main Ad)iiinistration Building and princi- 
pal laboratories of the Department of Agriculture are situated 
on the southern side, while the Green-houses, Plant Quaran- 
tine, etc., are on the north side. 

History. Although the Department of Agriculture dates only 
from 1862 as an independent department, it traces its origin back 
to Washington and Franklin. The former, in his last message to 
Congress, advocated the organization of a Government branch to 
care for the interests of farmers; while Franklin, when Agent of 
Pennsylvania in England, sent home silk-worm eggs and mulberry 
cuttings, thus setting a precedent since followed by U. S. Consuls all 
over the world, through whose efforts new and valuable species of 
plants, fruits and domestic animals have been successfully introduced. 

The official history of the department dates from 1839, when 
Congress made a first appropriation of $1000.00 for the purpose of 
distributing seed, investigating agricultural conditions and collecting 
statistics. At the same time an Agricultural Bureau was created as 
a division of the Patent Office, then a branch of the Department ot 
State. In 1848, when the Department _ of the Interior was created, 
the Patent Office was transferred to its jurisdiction, including thf 
Agricultural branch. The latter remained under the direct super- 
vision of the Cornmission of Patents until 1862, and its chief activities 
were still the distribution of seeds and publication of agricultural 
information. Its establishment as an independent department dates 
from the appointment of the first Commissioner of Agriculture, the 
Hon. Isaac Newton (1862-67), to whom the present department 
grounds on the Mall were assigned for an experimental farm. They 
could not, however, be used for this purpose until the close of the 
Civil War, being needed by the Army for a cattle-yard. Under the 
second Commissioner, Gen. Horace Capron (1867-71), important prog- 
ress was made: a system of exchanges of seeds and plants was 
established with many foreign governments; the Administration Build- 
ing was completed; and the activities of the department extended to 
include five divisions: Chemistry, Garden and Grounds, Entomology, 
Statistics and Botany. 

In 1889, largely through the influence of the Farmers' Congress, , 
the department was raised to first rank, the office of Commissioner ■ 
abolished and a new Cabinet officer. Secretary of Agriculture, created 
in his stead. Since then the growth and broadening scope of the , 
department have been phenomenal. To-day it includes the following. 
Bureaus: i. Office of F'ann Management and Farm Economics; -'..j 
Weather Bureau; 3, Bureau of Animal Industries; 4. Bureau of Plaitii 
Industry; 5. Bureau of Forestry; 6. Bureau of Chemistry; 7. Bureau oril 
Soils; 8. Bureau of Entomology; 9. Bureau of Biological Survey; ii).| 
[)ivision of Publications; 11. Bureau of .\ccmuits and Disbursement^ ;ij 
12. States Relations Service; 13. Bureau of Public Roads; 14. Bureaiiji 
of Markets and Crop Estimates; 15. Packers and Stockyards Administi i-I 
tion; 16. Administration of (irain Future Trading Act; 17. Insecticiilei 
and Fungicide Board; 18. Federal Horticultural Board; 19. Fixed Nitro-tjj 
gen Research Laboratory. i 

II 



THE MALL 253 

The Administration Building, a plain rectangular red- 
brick structure three stories and mansard roof, erected 1867, 
formerly contained a museum, comprising collections of 
plants, insects, etc. These have been transferred to the 
National Aluseum ; and the only collections now in the Ag- 
ricultural buildings are for laboratory purposes and other 
work of the department and are not open to the public. The 
ofifice of the Secretary of Agriculture is on the ground 
floor, N.W. cor. It contains portraits of former Secre- 
taries of the department: i. (E. wall) James Wilson, Sec. 
1897-1913, by William M. Chase; 2. (W. wall) J. Sterling 
Morton, Sec. 1893-97, by Freeman Thorp ; 3. (in ante-room) 
Jeremiah Rusk, Sec. 1889-93 ; 4. Norman J. Colman, last Com- 
missioner and first Secretar\^, 1885-89. (Another portrait of 
Secretary Wilsion, by Freeman Thorp, said to be a better like- 
ness than the Chase portrait, hangs in the Chief Clerk's office 
diagonally opposite). 

Immediately behind the Administration Building is a 
small, square structure now occupied by the Bureau of En- 
tomology. The New Agricultural Building, when completed, 
will occupy the greater part of the S. side of the Agricul- 
tural Grounds; the plans call for a large central building 
surmounted by a dome, and connected with two subordinate 
buildings extending E. and W., with a total frontage of 750 
ft._ Rankin, Kellogg & Crane, architects. This proposed 
building was a pet project of Secretary Wilson who, find- 
ing that he could not obtain from Congress a sufficient 
appropriation for so large a structure, proceeded with the 
money granted to erect the two wings, hoping to add the 
main central building later. These two wings, dating from 
1907, are L-shaped structures on the Greek order, the base- 
ment being of Medford granite, the superstructure of Ver- 
mont marble, and red tiles for the roof. The main fagades, 
facing N., have at each end a pavilion with six Ionic col- 
umns, three in front and three on the side. The pavilions 
are surmounted by pediments containing sculptured groups 
:onsisting, in each case, of a pair of nude seated figures, 
liupporting between them a shield adorned with appropriate 
j;mblems of one of the agricultural products, with the name 
inscribed above. Adolph A. Weinman, sculptor. 

The subjects of the fovir pediments are from E. to W., as follows: 
;. Fruit; 2. Flowers; 3. Cereals; 4. Forests. When first erected the 
lihields bore the names in Latin: "Fructiis," "Flores," "Cereales," 
,'Forestes." One day a visitor called Secretary Wilson's attention to 
he fact that Forest cs was not classic Latin, and suggested that it 
hould be corrected; whereupon the Secretary decided that there was 
iio good reason for Latin inscriptions on an American Government 
-uildmg, and had them replaced with the English equivalents. 



254 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

These buildings contain nothing of interest to the tour- 
ist, being devoted almost wholly to laboratories. 

The Library of the Department of Agriculture is in the 
new yellow brick building facing the Mall, on B St. S. W., 
near 14th St., east wing, ground floor. The library is in- 
tended primarily for use in the work of the Department, 
but is free to the public for reference. Open 9 A.M. to 4 
P.M. daily, except Sundays and Holidays ; Saturdays dur- 
ing summer months, 9 A.M. to i P.M. 

The Library dates from the establishment of the Department of 
Agriculture in 1862. Its present resources are upward of 
140,000 volumes and pamphlets. Its collections are strong in all 
branches of agriculture, also in forestry, botany, applied chemistry, 
pharmacy, foods, zoology, especially economic entomology, hunting 
and game preservation. Connected with the main library arc twelve 
Bureau libraries which, with the exception of the Weather Bureau 
Library, are administered as branches of the Department library and 
there catalogued and charged. It is claimed that this collection 
constitutes the most extensive agricultural library in the world. 

The Administration Building faces a large square, formal' 
garden, occupying the center of the grounds, with a terrace, on J 
the N. side, descending to a driveway directly on line with 13th | 
St., and flanked by exceptionally fine rows of Gingko trees. | 
This avenue brings the visitor to the Green-houses. Those 
on the W. side are open to the public from 9 a. m. to 4.30 p. m. 
Most visitors will naturally enter the gate opposite the path- 
way on S. side of the Green-houses, but will find that the' 
doors to many of the houses are locked. Just outside the 
grounds, on B St., is an entrance to the main corridor ol 
the building, from which all of the Green-houses can be' 
readily visited. In the first, or easternmost, house is still pre- 
served the parent stem of the Bahia, or Navel Orange, 
America. In recent years this tree nearly died in the process 
of transplanting, and three-quarters of its girth is now over- 
laid with a plastering of rubber. The attendant, however 1 
will point out how the new bark is slowly covering the injurccj 
portion. 

The Green-houses on the E. side of the driveway, ex- 
tending to the I2th St. corner, are closed to the public. The}' 
are occupied by the Plant Quarantine Division of the Bureai; 
of Plant Industry. 

The main activities of this Bureau date from the opening of th' 
20th century, and have been exerted mainly in the introduction ani 
popularization of new varieties of foreign cereals, fruits, vegetables 
plants and trees. It was presently discovered that along with th , 
beneficial "Plant Immigrants" there were being introduced a numbe: 
of destructive foreign insects and plant diseases. In fact, the moa 
serious menaces in recent years to American agricultural interests hay 
entered this country from abroad, including the Cotton-boll Weeyii. 
the Citrus Canker and the Pink Boll Fly. 



THE SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION 255 

Consequently a most important field for this bureau's activities is 
its quarantine work. All importations of foreign plants, seeds, roots 
and cuttmgs are subject to inspection, small consignments at port 
of entry, larger ones (upon due notice) by local inspectors at th© 
point of consignment. All specimens found diseased or doubtful or 
imported from infected zones are sent to the Washington green-houses 
for study, and if necessary for treatment, and not released until it is 
established that they are free from any di'eases or jtarasitc harmful 
to their species or to kindred native families and genera. 

Specialists are occasionally permitted to inspect the methods here 
employed. But to the casual visitor the Quarantine Department is as 
rigidly closed as a Small-pox hospital. 

II. The Smithsonian Institution — The Smithsonian 

Building 

; *The Smithsonian Institution, constituting to-day one 
Sf the most important scientific centers of the world, origi- 
lated in the curious whim of an Englishman who had never 
iven visited the United States. James Smithson was the 
latural son of Sir Hugh Smithson, first Duke of Northum- 
)erland. He was graduated from Oxford in 1786, and subse- 
luently devoted himself to scientific studies, specializing in 
ihemistry. He seems, however, to have had no settled home, 
Iternating between lodgings in London and lengthy sojourns 
ti Paris, Berlin, Florence and Genoa, in which last-named 
•Jty he died, June 27, 1829. Thanks to the generosity of the 
:)uke, his father, and his own simple habits, he left a fortune 
|f approximately half a million dollars, which he willed to 
is nephew for life; and in the event of the latter dving with- 
ut_ issue, then the whole of the property was left "to the 
Jnited 'States of America, to found at Washington, under the 
ame of the Smithsonian Institution, an establishment for the 
icrease and dififusion of knowledge among men." The 
resent fame of the Institution goes far to justify the 
rophesy made by its founder, that his name should "live in 
le memory of man when the titles of the Northumberlands 
nd the [Percys are extinct and forgotten." 

Smithson's nephew died without heirs in 1835. Consequently the 

: operty reverted to the United States, and in September, 1838, after 

suit in Chancery, the bequest was paid into the Federal treasury. 

s disposition was for several years before Congress: and it was not 

ilil August, 1846, that the Smithsonian Institution was founded and 

act passed directing the formation of: i. A library; 2. A museum 

r the reception of collections belonging to the government; 3. A 

llery of art. It left to a Board of Regents the power of adopting 

ch other parts of an organization as they should deem best suited 

> promote the object of the bequest. Under the terms of the act there 

IS set aside, especially reserved for the purpose, the S. W. quarter 

the square of land in the Mall extending from 7th to 12th Sts and 

w known as Smitlisoniam Institution Park (p. 247). 



256 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

The Board of Regents subsequently decided upon the following 
general plan upon which the operations of the Institution are con- 
ducted: . 

"To Increase KnozvJedge. It is proposed: i. To stinuilate men 
of talent to make original researches, by oflering suitable rewards 
?ur memoirs containing^ew truths; and, 2. To appropriate annuaUy 
a portion of the income for particular researches, under the direction 
of suitable persons. 

"To Diffuse Kvozvledge. It is P/oposed: i. To publisb a series 
of periodical reports on the progress of the different branches of knowl- 
edge; and, 2. To publish, occasionally, separate treatises on subjects 
of general interest." 

The Institution is unique in representing the only instance up U 
that time in which a trust of this nature had been accepted by the .Ameri- 
can government. Its controlling body consists of. the President of the 
United States, the Vice-President, the Chief Justice, and the member^ 
of the Cabinet ex-officio. There is also a Board of Regents, consisting ot 
the ViQC-President and Chief Justice of the United . States, three Sena- 
tors, three Members of the House of Rpresentatiyes and six other 
emiAent persons nominated by a joint resolution of the Senate and th^ 
House of Representatives. The Board elects one of its nuniber as 
Chancellor. It als(* elects a Secretary, who is the executive officer 
the Institution, and the Director of . its activities The duties of thi. 
Board are to administer the foundation fund of the Institution and to 
make annual reports of the same to Congress. The publications of the 
Institution are in three principal issues: i "Contributions ^to Kiioaa 1- 
edge"; 2. "Miscellaneous Collections"; 3. "Annual Reports. 

The Smithsonian Building. This, the oldest of the group 
of buildings in the Smithsonian Institution Park, is a pic- 
turesque structure in the later Norman or Lombard style ot 
Architecture in vogue during the last half of the twelttli 
century, and representing the latest variety of the rounder 
style immediately preceding the advent of Gothic. The ma 
terial is a lilac-gray freestone from quarries near the moutl 
of Seneca Creek, a tributary of the Potomac, twenty-thrc. 
miles N. of Washington. This stone has the advantage o 
being soft when first quarried and hardening upon exposur 
to the weather. The plans were drawn by James Renzvick 
Jr subsequently architect of St. Patrick's Cathedral Nev 
York City. The cornerstone of the Institution was laid ' 
May 1847, with Masonic ceremonies, in the presence 
President Polk and a large throng of spectators. The build 
ing was co'inpleted in 1855. 

Renwick's design as originally carried out consisted of a mx 
central building, two stories high, and two lateral ^v\ng-\,,^J^ ^ ."'I' 
sisting of a single story, and connecting with the '»f ." j!"^^^^"^' ! 
intervening ranges, each of the latter having a cloister with . 
open stone^ screen on the northern front. The only important chang 
that have since been made are the reconstruction of the e.iste 
wing and range (raised to four and three stories respectively), t,- 
closing m of the western cloister (for laboratory purposes), a, | 
complete fire-proofing of the whole building The necessity of this 1< 
mentioned improvement was painfully taught by the disastrous fire \ 



THE SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION 257 

1865, which destroyed the upper part of the main building and with 
it the official, scientific and miscellaneous correspondence, the record 
books and manuscripts in the Secretary's office, Stanley's gallery of 
Indian portraits and the personal effects of James Smithson. 

The dimensions of the building as it now stands are as follows: 
extreme length 447 ft.; main central structure 205 ft. long by 57 
ft. wide and 58 ft. high to top of corbel course. In the centre of 
the fagade of the main building are two towers, the higher rising 
to a height of 145 ft. In the middle of the S. front is a single massive 
tower 37 ft. square and 91 ft. high. From the N. E. cor. of the 
main building rises a double campanile tower 17 ft. square and 117 ft 
to the top of the finial; while at the S. W. cor. is a lofty octagonal 
lower containing a spiral stairway. These main towers together with 
four smaller ones, were the cause of one sarcasti0 critic's simile of 
a collection of church steeples which had gotten lost and were 
;onsulting' as to the best means of getting home to their respective 
murches.' ^ 

The eastern wing, now devoted to the offices of administration 
yas for many years the home of Prof. Joseiph Henry, thei Institution's 
irst Secretary. Here also Secretary 'Langley pursued his investigations 
n aerodynamics, resulting in the invention of the flying machine. 

The only rooms in the Smithsonian building now accessible 
:o the public are the main central gallery, the S. pavilion and 
-he western range and wing. The visitor enters through the 
nan doorway in the middle of the northern side. To the L. of 
.he vestibule, in an alcove closed by a grating, is the Mortuary 
::hapel of James Smith so xX. It contains a marble sarco- 
'hagus surmounted by an urn. marking the last resting-place 
f the Institution's founder. His grave was formerly in the 
Anghsh cemetery near Genoa, Italy, but in 1906 his remains 
vere brought to this country and placed beneath the orginal 
nonument bought from Genoa. 

jl On the wall immediately S. of the alcove is a bronze 
iiemorial tablet to Samuel Pierpont Langley (1824-1906), 
•ecretary of the Institution — 1887-1906. Between the vesti- 
ule and main gallery, in the narrow hallway from which 
;airs ascend to R. and L., are two wall cases containing 
'ersonal Relics of James Smithson. These include several 
utograph pages ; a couple of published monographs by 
mithson on scientific topics; a miniature of Smithson by 
\9hns, painted in 1816; miniature of Col. Henry Lewis Dick- 
ison, a half-brother of Smithson; Smithson's matriculation 
agister of Oxford University, dated 1782, in whch he has 
gned himself Jacobus Ludovicus Macie (the name first 
lopted by Smithson from his mother, Elizabeth Macie; a 
lotograph of Smithson's former grave, Genoa, Italy; two 
)mmissions from King George III to Col. Dickinson; and 
ost interesting of all, Smithson's last will and testament in 
s own handwriting, in which the bequest for the founding 



258 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

of the Smithsonian Institution may still be read; the word 
"Washington" in the upper line of the right-hand page ii 
especially distinct. 

The Exhibition of Graphic Arts, forming part of the 
National Museum collections, now occupies the greater part 
of the galleries open to the public. It comprises exhibits on 
the development of writing, illustrating, printing and the 
reproductive arts. Since special stress is laid upon the 
material side of art, the cocllection includes not only manu- 
scripts, drawings and prints, but papers, canvasses, pencils, 
brushes, colors, inks, types, tools and machinery. It is gen- 
erally conceded to be the largest exhibit of its kind in the 
world. 

Main Central Gallery, East Section. (N. side, W. to 
E.) : Case i. The History of Writing, including specimens 
of pictographs (earliest known form of writing), photographs 
of tablets giving account of the Deluge, papyrus manuscripts, 
copy of the Rosetta Stone; Case 2. Samples of early printing, 
including first Chinese newspaper, Horn Books, etc.; Case 
3. Original drawings in various mediums, crayon, rniniature 
painting, etc.; Case 4. Wash-drawings, black-and-white, pen- 
and-ink, water colors, including early Chinese water color; 
also bladders of paints used before the invention of modern, 
lead tubes; ('S. side, E. to W.) : Case 5- Manufacture oi. 
printing inks, from the flaxseed to the finished product— each^ 
exhibit fully labelled; Case 6. Processes of making hani-i 
made paper and of water-marking; Case 7. 'Reproduction o'l 
a i6th century type foundry and two books completed entircbl 
by ithe work of the donor, Dard Hunter, who made tlu| 
punches, cast the type and printed it on his own hand-mad'j 
paper; also other examples of modern printing; Case 8: 
Exhibit of modern type compared with i6th century type 
also models of first movable metal type ever made (Cores 
1403), from originals in the American Museum of Naturaj 
History, N. Y. 

Main Central Gallery. West Section. Seven case' 
devoted to history of wood engraving, showing: i. How hvy 
wood blocks are made, and the tools with which the work 
done; 2. Modern method of making a wood block (hari 
maple)' for color work; 3. Exhibit of old color prints, i6o(i; 
1812, ranging from two to twelve printmgs ; 4- Wood blocH:; 
by Timothy Cole, and one original block by Alexander Andei 
son, the first American engraver who made wood engraviiiiti 
extensively. A central case, at W. end, contains an Industriij 
Group, showing the Japanese method of cutting wood hlod, 



THE SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION 259 

and printing wood cuts, from the uncut block to the finished 
print in 25 colors. 

West End Cases. Six cases illustrating the History of 
Engraving, beginning with an early specimen dating from 
1448. 

The W. door of the main hall leads into the — 

Press Room. This hall contains, besides exhibits of 
lithography and etching, several old printing presses, including 
the Bradford Press (1693), said to be the first printing press 
used in New York City; the first printing press to use the 
toggle joint (1819), invented by Wells; also an early linotype 
(1885). Continuing W., we next enter — 

The Chapel, a large hall at extreme W. of the building, 
containing reproductive processes based upon photography, 
and a few substitute processes. The exhibits include : First 
recorded success in photogravure, by Nicephore Niepce 
(1826) ; Screen for making photogravures, invented by Gen. 
von Eglofifstein (1865), and screens used today in rotary 
intaglio ; early specimens of Karl Klic's photogravure process 
(1894) ; exhibits showing Ives method of makng half-tones 
(1881) ; set of 13 Levy half-tone screens, from 50 to 400 lines 
to the inch : Collotype process for pirinting from gelatine films. 
Other exhibits include the Ben Day rapid shading mediums, 
nature printing, wax engraving and electrotyping, both wax 
and lead processes, and McKee processes of putting the dver- 
jlay in the plate itself. 

j At the northern end of the Cha.pel is now housed Horatio 
Greenongh's much discussed Statue of Washington. This statue repre- 
sents Washington clad in a Roman toga and seated in. a Curule chair, 
with one arm raised in a gesture of warning and advice. This statue 
was ordered by Congress in 1832 to commemorate the centennial of 
Washington's birth. The sculptor spent no less than eiglit years upon 
t and received the sum of $20,000 in payment. The statue formerly 
'aced the main entrance to the Capitol; it was found, however, that 
exposure to the weather was seriously affecting the Carrara marble 
j'rom which it was carved. 

Smithsonian Bureaus. There are seven branches under the 
liharge of the Smithsonian Institutian, the expenses of which 

ilire sustained by annual-governmental appropriation. These 
ire: 
I. The United States National Museum, the depository of 
he national collections. It is especially rich in the natural 
jiistory of America, including : zooilogy, paleontology and 
thnology (see Natural History Building, p. 260), and has 
xtensiye series relating to American history and the arts and 
idustries (see Old Museum p. 322). Under "Hilstory" are 
Kluded the World War Collection which has been accnmu- 



26o RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

lated with co-operation of the War and Navy Departments, 
and already comprised some 35,000 objects (see p. 266). 

2. The National Gallery of Art including the Freer Gallery 
(see p. 271 and p. 339). 

3. The International Exchange Service: the agency of the 
United States Government for exchange of scientific, literary 
and governmental publications with foreign governments and 
institutions, receiving and dspatchinig about 600,000 pounds of 

printed matter annually. 

4. The Bureau of American Ethnology, engaged in the 
collection and publication of knowledge relating to American 
Indians, and the natives of Hawaii. 

5. The Astrophysical Observatory, engaged in investigat- 
ing solar radiation and related phenomena. 

6. The Naitional Zoological Park (p. 444). 

7. The International Catalogue of Scientific Literature. 
This organization consists of a Central Bureau in London, and 
33 regional bureaus in the principal countries of the world. 
That for the United States is administered by the Smithsonian 
Institution. 

III. The Smithsonian Institution — The Natural 
History Building 

(The "Nezv'^ National Museum) i 

The Natural History Building of the United States] 
National Museum, popuiarlv known as the "New Mus-; 
eum," (PI. I — B3) situated on the N. side of the Mall'l 
directly opposite the buildings of the Smithsonian Institution,!; 
and with its main entrance almost in line with loth St., is; 
a rectangular granite structure four stories in height, and 
covering an area of about four acres. It is on the modern, 
classic order of architecture, with a distinct French influence ■ 
shown in the mansard roof and dormer windows. The mate-.i 
rial of the exterior walls consists of three varieties of granite I,; 
the ground story being of pink or a warm gray Milford (Mass.),! 
granite; the two main stories of white granite from Bethe i 
(Vt.) and the attic story of a nearly white granite fron. 
Mt. Airy (N. €.). Hornblozver & Marshall, Architects. 

a. General Description 

There are two entrances: one from the Mall, on S. sid( 
opening into the first or main floor; the other, on the N. s:dj 
opening from B St. into the ground story floor. 

Hours: The Museum is open to the public, free, week-days, 9 A. 
to 4.30 P. M.; Sundays, 1.30 to 4.30 P. M. 



262 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

A broad approach of granite steps, broken by an inter- 
mediate platform, leads up to a Roman-Corinthian portico 
at the south main entrance, supported by eight columns, the 
capitals of which are patterned after those of the Temple of 
Jupiter Stator, at Rome. This portico opens into a large 
pavilion and rotunda, from which three wings diverge to the 
N., E, and W., respectively. Each wing consists of a central 
sky-lighted hall, side aisles and an end pavilion. Two L-shaped 
ranges, extending N. from the S. W. and S. E. pavilions, con- 
nect with the pavilion of the N. wing, and complete the en- 
closure of twO' spacious inner courts (128 ft. sq. each). The 
outer dimensions of a building are: length of S. front, 
561 ft.; N. front, 499 ft; E. and W. sides, 313 ft. 

The Rotunda deserves more than a passing word. In 
form it is an irregular octagon, rising through three stories 
and culminating in a noble dome formed of Gustavino tiles. 
It is supported on four massive piers, so placed as to form 
the alternate shorter sides of the octagon. The screens be- 
tween the piers are practically identical in composition in each 
of the three tiers, consisting of four unfiuted monolithic 
columns of breccia sta:^.zi}ia marble, the only difference being 
that in the first-story tier they are of the order of mutulary 
Doric, while the second and third tiers are Roman Ionic. The 
widest diameter of the Rotunda is 83 ft. 5^/^ in. The inside 
diameter of the dome at base is 71 ft. 

The visitor should also note the floors of the Rotunda and gal- 
leries. The former is of roseal Tennessee marble, with borders 
of green serpentine and Cipollino. The gallery floors are of pink Ten- 
nessee marble, with borders of Sienna marble. The wall bases, plinths 
for door trim, etc., are of the same material as the floorings. 

Lavatories for Men and for Women are situated in the North 
Wing of the ground story, the former on the west side, the latter on 
the east. i 

A catalogue of the collections of the National Gallery of Art is 1 
now in press. A special illustrated catalogue of the Ralph Cross I 
Johnson Collection of. Padntings is on sale,i in the room containing these ! 
works. There are no other official catalogues on sale of any of the i 
collections in this Museum. Monographs of certain portions of the 
exhibits have been from time to time prepared by the Smithsonian Insti- 1 
tution and may be found among its publications. j 

The museum contains four passenger elevators, two in the main i 
pavilion at E. of entrance; the other two W. of N. entrance. |j 

Division of space. The total available floor space of the 
museum is 468,118 sq. ft. At present more than half this 
space is open to the ipublic, the exhibits occupying all of the 
first and second stories, with the exception of one range, asi 
well as the north wing and pavilion and northwest range ofl 
the ground story. The collections of Natural History, Anthropol-i 
ogy, Biology, etc., which legitimately belong in this •building,!'! 

II 



THE NEW NATIONx\L MUSEUM 263 

are at present seriously crowded because of the necessity of 
making room for twO' other collections : I. The National 
Gallery of Art (p. 271) and II: The World War His- 
torical Collection (p. 266), both of which will eventually 
be housed in buildings of their own. At present the War 
Exhibits occup}- the main floor Rotunda and the north wing 
and northwest range of the ground story. The 'National Gallery 
of Art is housed mainly in the Central Hall of the N. wing 
and the N. pavilion, together with the entrance pavilion of 
the ground story. There are no Natural History exhibits in the 
ground story. The first story (apart from the rooms occupied 
by the National Gallery of Art), is divided almost 
equally between the exhibits of Anthropology, Biology and 
Geology. The aisles and pavilion of the N. wing, together with 
the northern sections of both ranges, are occupied by the 
Ethnological collection; the western wing and adjacent section 
of the western range are occupied by the collections of Mam- 
mals and Birds; the eastern wing contains the collections of 
Paleontology; and the adjoining section of the eastern wing 
is devoted to Physical and Chemical Geology. Second story: 
the W. wing and W. range are occupied mainly by collections 
of Reptiles, Fishes. Invertebrates and Osteological and various 
special exhibits ; the N. wing and eastern range contains 
Anthropological exhibits, illustrative of American and old- 
world Archaeology; the eastern wing is devoted to Geology 
(minerals and gems, also building and useful stones). 

b. The Vestibule and North Pavilion 

The visitor approaching the museum from the N. will 
find it most convenient to enter through the northern or B St. 
doorway, which opens directly into the ground story. In the 
vestibule, on L. of entrance, is a bronze panel in high relief, 
representing An Incident of the Mexican War, by Isidore 
Konti (1862- ). 

The army sent from Santa Fe to occupy California was met and 
defeated by the Mexicans at San Pasquale. The Ameirican forces 
were driven upon a butte in the desert on which there was no water, 
ind there surrounded by Mexicans. Edward F. Beale and Kit Carson, 
both famous explorers of the West, volunteered to slip through the 
iVIexican lines and obtain reinforcements from Stetson's fleet at San 
)iego. The artist has represented them at the moment when they 
liscover the fleet. 

Opposite, at R. end of the vestibule are the *Bronze 
iDooRS for the W. entrance of the United States Capitol, 
;lesigned and modeled in 1910 by Professor Louis Amateis, 



264 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

of Washington. They consist of a transom and two doors 
with an ornamental frame, all of bronze. The dimensions 
of the doors are 7 ft. 8^2 in. wide, and 9 ft. 6 in. high ; 
the height, including transom and frame, is 13 ft. 10 in. 

The transom represents "The Apotheosis of America"; America is 
represented seated in a chariot drawn b}' lions (typical of strength), 
and led by a child (signifying the superiority of the intellect over brute 
force). Beside the chariot are figures representing Education, Archi- 
tecture, Literature, Painting, Music, Sculpture Mining, Commerce and 
Industry. At R. and L. of transom are statuettes representing respec- 
tively, i'fcomas Jefferson and Benjamin Franklin. At the four corners 
of this panel are medallion portraits of George Peabody, Ralph Waldo 
Emerson, Horace Mann and Johns Hopkins. 

The eight panels of the doors (from upper left-hand panel down- 
ward) represent: i. Jurisprudence; 2. Science; 3. Fine Arts; 4. Min- 
ing; 5. (upper right-hand panel), Agriculture; 6. Iron and Electricity; 
7. Engineering; 8. Naval Architecture and Commerce. Each panel is 
flanked by statuettes and medallions of men famous in these several 
lines of achievement. 

I. Jurisprudence. This panel represents the Supreme Court of the 
United States, with Chief Justice John Marshall presiding. Stat- 
uettes: (R.) James Madison; (I4.) Daniel Webster. Medallions: 
Patrick Henry, Chief Justice Roger B. Taney and Rufus Choate. 

II. Science. A group of world's greatest scientists, from Hippar- 
chus, the Egyptian astronomer, to Charles Darwin. Statuettes: (R.) 
Joseph Henry, physicist; (L.) Oliver Wolcott Gibbs, chemist. Medal- 
lions: James D. Dana, geologist; Simon Newcomb, astronomer; Alex- 
ander Graham Bell, inventor of the telephone; and Samuel F. B. 
Morse, inventor of the telegraph. 

III. l""ine Arts. This is represented by a group including Homer, 
Virgil, Dante, Shakespeare, Goethe, Hugo, Palestrina, Beethoven and 
Rossini. Statuettes: Edgar Allan Poe and William Thornton, architect 
of the original Capitol. Medallions: (R.) H. K. Brown and (L.) 
Gilbert. Stuart. 

IV. Mining. This represents a scene in a mine. Statuettes: (R.) 
Alexander Holley, metallurgist; (L.) James W. Marshall, discoverer of 
gold in California. Medallions: (R. to L.) Abram S. Hewitt, states- 
man; Clarence King, geologist; E. B. Case, engineer. 

V. Agriculture. A harvest scene. Statuettes: (R.) James Wilson, 
agriculturist; (L.) Samuel G. Morton, ethnologist. Medallions: (R. 
to L.) Benjamin Bussey, agricultural chemist; Justin S. Morrill, United 
States Senator; J. P. Norton, agricultural chernist. 

VI. Iron and Electricity. Scene showing group of iron and 
electric workers. Statuettes: (R.) H. A. Rowland, physicist; (L.) 
Peter Cooper, philanthropist. Medallions: (R.) Thomas A. Edison, 1 
inventor; (L.) Matthias W. Baldwin, founder of locomotive works. \ 

VII. Engineering. A scene with workers laying railroad tracks.. 
In the background is a long bridge. Statuettes: (R.) Thomas L. i 
Casey, engineer; (L.) James B. Eads, builder of the St. Louis Bridge., 
Medallions: (R.) Stevens, founder of Stevens Institute; (L.) Wash- 1 
ington L. Roebling, builder of the Brooklyn Bridge. J 

VIII. Naval Architecture and Commerce. A Figure typifyingi* 
Architecture is showing to Commerce, Industry and Agriculture, on ai' 
globe held by a youth, the places where they can dispose of their wares. ; 
A sailor wearing a liberty cap symbolizes the "open door" policy. Stat- 
uettes: (R.) John Ericsson, inventor of the Monitor: (L.) Robert ; 
Fulton, inventor of the steamboat. Medallions: (upper R.) Elias Howe, 



THE NEW NATIONAL MUSEUM 265 

inventor of the sewing machine; (upper L.) Eli Whitney, inventor of 
the cotton gin; (below,. R. tc L.) John Lenthall, naval constructor; 
Cyrus W. Field, layer of first Atlantic cable; John C. Fremont, 
the "Pathfinder." 

These doors are temporarily deposited here, awaiting the contem- 
plated remodeling of the West front of the Capitol. 

From the vestibule, we enter directly the spacious Lobby, 
finished in white marble and containing the following- sculp- 
tures and paintings : 

(W. to E.) I. Frederick J. Waiigh, The Knight of the 
Hody Grail (painting) ; 2. Derwent Wood, William Pitt, Earl 
of Chatham (MaI^ble statue presented in 1915, by American 
women living in the United Kingdom, as a memorial of the 
hundred years peace between England and America) ; 

3. Preston Pozvers, Bust of Justin Smith Morrill (marble) ; 

4, Bronze Image of "The Buddha of Five Wisdoms," Toku- 
gawa Period. 

According to Japanese inscription on back of Buddha, the image 
was made by Saburo-biyoye Katsiitane, and offered to the Temple of 
Joshozan Soan, in Yamada, Seishui in 1648. 

5. Attributed to Harriet Hosnier, Esmeralda (marble) ; 
6. Henry Kitson, Victor Emanuel III (bronze bust) ; 7. Vin-^ 
nie Ream Hox^ie, Sappho (mai^ble) ; 8. Joseph Hosier, II 
Penseroso (marble) ; 9. Heijry H. Kitson, James Bryce, 
Ambassador to United States, 1907-13 (bronze bust) ; lO. 
Elisahet Ney, Mrs. Siddons as Lady Macbeth (marble) ; 
II. Edward Moran, First recognition of the American Flag 
by a Foreign Government (painting) ; 12. Ferdinand Pcttrich, 
Statue of George Washington (plaster model) ; 13. Edward 
Kemeys, Panther and Cubs (bronze) ; 14. Model of Columns 
(actual size) from iPortal of Maya Temple in the prehistoric 
City of Chichen Itza, Yucatan; 15. Edward Kemeys, The 
Still Hunt (ibronze) ; 16. Edzvard Moran, Burning of the 
Frigate Philadelphia (painting) ; 17. Andrew O'Connor, 
Model of proposed monument to Commodore John Barry, 
; "Father oif the United States Navy"; 18. Edzvard Moran, 
Midnight Mass on the Mississippi (painting) ; 19. The 
Same. The Brig Armstrong Engaging a British Fleet; 20. 
Branko Dechkovitch, The Victory of Liberty (gift of the 
sculptor) ; 21. Ferdinand Pettrich, Death of Tecumseh 
i (marble). 

1 The Northeast Range, entered by door on L., contains 
Administrative Offices and the small but important Library 
of the National Museum, containing the collection of works 
relating to the field covered by the Museum exhibits. Open 
|to the public for reference only, week days, 9 A. M. to 
4:30 P. M. 



266 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

c. The World War Historical Collection 

Northwest Range : World War Historical Collection. 
While this is a temporary installment, it may remain several 
years, as no definite plans for an adequate building have yet 
been made. The exhibits comprise mainly uniforms and equip- 
ment, guns and ammunition and original paintings for war- 
time posters. Through the W. door of the Lobb}' we enter 
the— 

Northwest Range, North Aisle. The center of this aisle 
is occupied by 15 large cases, beginning with E. Wall Case: 

I. Belgian Uniforms; 2. War Decorations: British, French, 
Belgian, German, Austrian, Bulgarian and Turkish ; 3. Uni- 
forms : British, Japanese and United States : 4. Rifles, bay- 
onets, etc., French and German ; 5. German Uniforms, includ- 
ing one actually worn by Chancellor Bethmann-Hollweg; 6. 
German Field equipment, including knapsacks, field maps, etc. ; 
also New Zealand insignia ; 7. German army uniforms. Cor- 
poral, private, etc. ; Austrian uniforms. Prince, General, Major, 
Captain; 8. German food containers; 9. Austrian uniforms 
continued; Turkish tmiforms; 10. German epaulettes, etc.; 

II. Italian uniforms; 12. German swords and bayonets, also 
helmets and caps used in Turkish service ; 13. Italian army 
uniforms continued ; 14. German weapons continued ; pistols, 
bayonets and swords; 15. (W. Wall Case), Italian uniforms 
continued, including the uniform of General Diaz. 

West Aisle, Central Cases (N. to S.) : i. (N. Wall Case), 
German shells and shell baskets ; 2. German shells continued : 
1916 pattern field gun shells ; 75 mm. light minenwerf er smoke 
shells, etc. ; 3. German gas alarms ; 4. French trace shells, 
incendiary shells, gas shells, etc.; 5. French flame j;)rojectors; 
German smoke producers ; 6, British respirators. P. H. hel- 
mets, etc., French 'masks ; 7. Italian smoke candles. Austrian 
incendiary bombs ; 8. Italian, German and Austrian masks ; 
9. British Livens projector, etc. 10. British electric detona- 
tor; German projectors; 11. British mortars; 12. Hand gre- 
nades, position lights, rifles, etc. ; 13. Rangefinders ; 14-16. 
Browning machine gun and other types of machine guns; 
17. Incendiary bombs; H. C. B. bomb Mark III, etc. 18. 
Artillery and cavalry sabres; 19. French Chauchat automatic 
rifle; 20. (S. Wall Case), Army spades and shovels, Amer- 
ican and English. Extending beside Cases 15-19 is: The 
Propelling Machinery from ex-German Submarine U. B. 14? 
In returning to entrance the visitor may now inspect the right- 
hand Wall Cases: , 



i.t: 



THE WORLD WAR COLLECTION 267 

E. Wall Cases (S. to N.) : i. Italian mustard gas suit 
and mittens ; 2-3. French mustard gas suits, warning signs, 
etc.; 4, Diagram showing formation of gas clouds; 5-7. Horse 
mask, K. T. mask, A. T. mask, etc., showing method of 
manufacture. 

N. Aisle, S. Wall (W. to E.) : i. British, Canadian, 
Piper Gordon Highlander uniforms and equipment; also wom- 
en's war uniforms and equipment; 2. New Zealand, Punjabis, 
Russian Expeditionary force of British army uniforms and 
equipment; 3. Air service, Canadian Highlanders. Welsh 
Fusilliers, Australian, uniforms and equipment; also copy of 
uniform worn by Field Marshal Sir Douglas Haig; 4. French 
Colonial, African Chasseurs, Tirailleurs, Indo-Chinese uni- 
forms and equipment; 5. French cavalry, artillery, Algerian 
Tirailleurs, Chasseur a Pied, Spahis (African), Army nurse, 
uniforms and equipment ; 6. French uniforms continued, includ- 
ing uniform^ as worn by Marechal Foch. 

Collection of Original Paintings for Liberty Loan Post- 
ers (given by the artists). S. Wall, beginning at entrance 
door (E. to W.) : i. Francis C. Jones, Home Again; 2. 
Ossip Perelma, Portrait of Marshal Joffre ; 3. George Elmer 
Broivne, The Sinking of Unarmed Fishermen off the Coast ot 
Cape Cod. 4. Philip R. Goodwin. Charge on the Hinden- 
burg Line of the 105th Inf. 27th Division ; 5. Clifford Ulp. 
Gen. Allenby in Palestine; 6. Ossip Perelma, Portrait of Gen. 
Collardet; 7. John C. Todahl, The iRescue; 8. H. C. Murphy, 
Jr., The 27th Division Breaking the Hindenburg Line; 9. IV ni. 
de la Montagne Gary, The Warrior's Return; 19. Fred. Dana 
Marsh, Over the Rhine; to Victory; 11. Louis P. Bernekcr, 
The Wall Between ; 12. John F. Parker, Retreat of the 
Serbian Army; 13. Charles Hopkinson, The Sinking of the 
Hospital Ship ; 14. James Knox, First Attack of the Tanks ; 
15. /. D. IVhiting, Army Transport ; 16. Hozmrd Giles, Boys 
O'f the 165th Infantry Breaking Through; 17. Eva Brook 
Donly, Arrival at Baltimore of U-Boat Deutschland; 18. 
Reynolds Seal, Sinking of the U. S. S. Jones; 19. Edzvard 
H. Potthast, The Argonne ; 20. Harry L. Hoffman, The 
Argonne; 21. Fred J. Hoertz:, Cargo Carriers; 22. Frank 

' Tenney Johnson, Cam.el Supply Train Resting ; 23. Sidney E. 

''Dickinson, The First Raid on the Americans, -Nov. 3, 1917; 

I 24. Parker Nezvton, Victory Fleet in the North River ; 25. 

I James Weiland, Signing of the Armistice. 

W. Aisle, N. Wall (W. to E.) : Thornton Oakley, The 
Cannon Maker ; 2. H. Bolton Jones, The Finger O'f the Hun ; 
3. O. P^/'i'/wM/ Operation on a Hero of the War; 4. H. Bol- 



268 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

ion Jones, Wiheat for the Allies; 5. F. C. Stahr, "Go-to- 
Hell" Whittlesey and the Lost Battalion; N. Aisle. W. Wall; 
6. Carl Rengitis, Bringing up the Guns; 7. Matilda Bronmc, 
Belgian Refugees; 8. W. C. Rice, The Night Raiders, E. Wall; 
9. Nathan Dolinsky, The Battalion of Death; 10. Hozvard 
Russell Butler, Crime by Moonlight; 11. John C. Johansen, 
Gas land High Explosives. N. Wall ; 12. Ossip L. Linde, 
Louvain; 13. E. L. Blumenschein, Portrait of Charles \. 
Lembke, 91st Division; 14. Willard D. Paddock, "They 
Shall Not Pass" (bas-relief). 

Returning through the Lobby, the visitor now proceeds 
through south central door tO' — 

Central Gallery. World IVar Collection continued; Cen- 
tral Exhibits (N. to S.)- i. Gen. Electric 38-inch barrel 
type searchlight ; 2. Gen. Electric Model No. 2 60-inch open 
tyipe Searchlight; 3. Model of standard type Trench and Cave 
Shelter Chamber "Dugout" ; 4. Engineer pack train equip- 
ment, consisting of four pairs of boxes ; 5. Light gas railway 
locomotive, used by Expeditionary Force in France ; 6. Alod- 
els of Ponton wagons. Ponton bridges, etc. ; 7. Company car- 
penter chests ; 8, Limber and Caisson wagon, Brill type ; har- 
ness, Artillery type. 

W. Side Exhibits (S. to N.) : i. Model of camouflaged 
gun position; 2. Parabolic listening device; 3. American 
sound-ranging set; 4. American flash-ranging set; 5. Gen. 
Electric 60-inch barrel type Searchlight; 6. Photographic 
and drafting equipment. 

E. Side Exhibits (N. to S.) : i. Field dental equipment; 
portable dental chair ; 2. Medical equipment ; 3. Portable dis- 
infector or delousing machine; 4. Liberty kitchen; 5. Red 
Cross ambulance. 

Collection of Liberty Loan I^aintings, continued. N. Wall, 
W. of Entrance Door: i. Hugo Rosenfield, The Effect of 
the Long Range Gun, Paris ; 2. Felecie Waldo Howell, Re- 
turn of the 27th Division, Marching up Fifth Avenue; 3. Or- 
lando Rouland, Portrait; 4. Ebcn F. Comins, Juist Home 
From Over There; 5. Emily Nichols Hatch, Washington's 
Birthday: The 77th Division Parades on Fifth Avenue. 

West Wall (iN. to S.) : i. Laura A. Fry, Her Dream; 
2. Colin Campbell Cooper, Forward (The Crusaders) ; 3- 
E. L. Blumenschein, The Long Range Gun in Paris ; 4- 
Charles Hopkinson, The Sinking of the Lusitania; 5, Charles 
S. Chapman, Allies; 6. ^^aul King, Major-Gon. Hugh L. 
Scott; 7. Henry Salem Hubbcll, Capt. Walter B. Flannery; |^ 
8. Capt. H. Ledyard Tozvle, Capt. Eddie Rickenbacker ; 9. 



THE WORLD WAR COLLECTION 269 

/. Mort'wier Lichtenauer, Brig. Gen. Palmer E. Pierce; 10. 
Blendon R. Campbell, Brig. Gen. Cornelius Vanderbilt; 
II. William Woodward, Col. Allison Owen; 12. Martha 
Wheeler Baxter, Portrait; 13. Helen Watson Phelps, Dr. 
Henry Van Dyke; 14. Martha Walter, Brig. Gen. Charles 
L. de Bevoise; 15. Kenneth Frader, Signing of the Armistice. 
On W. Row of Columns (S. to N.) : i. George Varian, 
The Crumbling of the San Mihiel Salient; 2. John O. 
Todahl, Prey of the U-Boat ; 3. Douglas E. Parshall, British 
Infantry at Arras Cathedral ; 4. George N. Richards, The 
Accolade; 5. Arthur E. Bechcr, Sergeant Brown Captures 
His Huns ; 6. Richard V, Schluter, The Leviathan Return- 
ing With the 27th Division. 

East Row of Columns (N. to S.) : i. James G. Tyler, 
Torpedoed; 2. C. A. Aiken, Battle of Dogger Bank; 3. 
O, H. Von Gottschalk, Fair Game for the Hun; 4. Richard 
V. Schluter, Standing By to the Rescue; 5,. Clara Weaver 
Parrish, Deportations of the Belgians ; 6. /. W. Weaver, 
Naval Guns in Action; 7. John I. H. Doivnes, German 
Cruiser Emdcn Destroyed by Australian Cruiser Sidney; 
8. Truman E. Fassett, Naval Guns in Action on French Soil. 
East Wall (S. to N.). i. Carroll T. Berry, Battle of 
Siechprey; 2. Clifford Carleton, The 77th Division Leaves 
New York; 3. Richard V. Schluter^ Victims of the Sub- 
marine; 4. Howard Russell Butler, Eagle and -Shark; 5. 
Andrew T. Schwartz, The First American Shell ; 6. Charles 
F. Rosen, The Marines Attack; 7. John O. Todahl, A Clean 
Hit; 8. E. N. Vanderpocl, Ypres After the War; 9. F. K. 
Detwiller, Ships and More Ships ; 10. Harry C. Edwards, 
Edith Cavell Next; 11. Allyn Cox, Across the Piave ; 12. 
Os^ip Pcrelma, Portrait; 13. The Same, Rear Adm. R. P. 
Rogers; 14. Arthur M. Hazard, "Not by Might." 

North Wall (E. to W.) : i. John F. Barker, Zero Hour; 
i 2. Ehen Cumins, Colored Hero ; 3. The Same, Wounded 
I Soldier; 4. Edwin A. Blashfield, "The Spirit of the Past will 
, Carry the Future to Victory" ; 5. Theodore Oakley, Inistconck. 
' Doors in West Wall give admission to — 

' Rooms 44, 45, 46 and 47, containing Paintings and Draw- 

\ ings made by the Official Military artists of the American 
] Expeditionary Forces in France during the War with _ Ger- 
\\ viany. The following eight artists are represented : William 
|i James Aylward, W. J. Duncan, Harvey Dunn, George 
^l Harding, W. J. Morgan, Ernest C. Peixotto, J. Andre^ Smith 
jl and Harry Townsend. The collection comprises 497 pictures. 
1: Room 47 also contaiins a *Collectiox of 82 Drawings in pencil, 



2/0 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

pen, charcoal, chalk, crayon and water color, executed and 
signed by Eminent Contemporary French Artists, and pre- 
sented to the people of the United States by the citizens of 
the French Republic as a token of their appreciation of the 
sympathetic efforts of American citizens toward relieving 
the distress occasioned by the European War. This notable 
collection was received in July, 191 5. 

Doors in East Wall of Central Gallery lead into— 

Rooms 2>7i 38, 39 and 40, containing respectively : X-ray 
equipment; types of folding beds^^ invalid chairs, etc.; physio- 
theraphy; and U. S. Army equipment in Post and Base 
Hospitals. 

Facing the S. end of the Central Hall and directly under 
the Rotunda, is a spacious Auditorium with a seating capacity 
of 565 (one of the side doors is usually open through which 
the visitor may obtain a glimpse of the interior.) From the 
corridor, fronting on the Auditorium, stairs ascend R. and L. 
to the main or First floor, where doors open directly upon a 
circular corridor surrounding — 

The Rotunda : Occupied temporarily by the Naval 
Exhibits of the World War Collection. These comprise various 
types of torpedoes; models of torpedo boats, eagle boats, mine 
sweepers, etc. ; hydrophones used to locate submarines ; a 
paravane, a British device to protect vessels from moored 
mines; "Y" gun, or depth charge projector; and a primer that 
fired the last shot against the Germans from one of the U. S. 
Naval Railway Batteries. Note especially the *Model of 
Bellean Woods, from a survey by the Topographical Detach- 
ment, U. S. Marine Corps. 

The Circular Corridor surrounding the Rotunda contains 
the following paintings and sculptures, beginning at N. door- 
way (R. to L.) : I. Augustus St. Gaudens, Bronze Bust of 
Lincoln, from statue in Lincoln Park, Chicago; 2. Herbert 
Adams, Bronze statue of Joseph Henry; 3. Portrait of Henry 
Clay; 4. Portrait of William W. Corcoran; 5. Rear Adm. 
Andrew Hull Foote, U. S. N. (pilaster cast) ; 6. Rear Adm. 
Charles Henry Davis, U. S. N. (plaster cast) ; 7. Paul W. 
Bartleii, Equestrian statue* of Lafayette (plaster cast of the 
bronze statue erected in 1900, in the Court of Honor of the 
Louvre, Paris, by the school children of the United States) ; 
8. John F. Weir, Statue of Benjamin Silliman (original plas- 
ter model for bronze statue at Yale University) ; 9. John J. 
Boyle, Chippewa familv (bronze group) ; 10. Dona Pond. 
Portrait of Admiral W. S. Benson, U. S. A.; 11. Artist Un- 
knozvn. Portrait of Andrew Jackson; 12. A)ine Whitney, ^ 



THE NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART 271 

Bronze statue; 13. Piaster statue, life size, of Baron Kam- 
onno-Kami Naosuke, pioneer diplomat of Japan ; 14. Plaster 
statue, Francis Scott Key Alemorial; 15. /. Connor, statue of 
Robert Emmet. 

d. The National Gallery of Art 

North Wing: Central Hall: *National Gallery of Apt. 
The main portion of this art collection is housed temporarily 
in this Hall; and is shown to surprisingly good advantage 
in view of the fact that the lighting facilities were not pri- 
marily designed for art exhibits., 

History. The National Gallery of Art, the legal depository 
of all objects of art belonging to the Nation, had its inception 
in the Act of Congress approved Aug. 10, 1846, establishing 
the Smithsonian Institution and directing that, in addition to 
a Natural History Museum, provision should also be made for 
"a chemical laboratory, a library, a gallery of art, etc." In 
planning the Smithsonian building the Board of Regents set 
aside two galleries 60 ft. in length, and soon afterwards in- 
creased the small nucleus of poirtraits, husts and miscellaneous 
paintings, by the successive purchases of the Marsh collection 
of prints, Catlin's "Indian Gallery," and the temporary deposit 
of the J. M. Stanley collection of Indian paintings. Serious 
discouragement resulted from the disastrous fire which, ^ in 
1865, burned out the second story of the Smithsonian Institu- 
tion, destroying a large portion of the art collection, including 
the Stanley paintings. The surviving works were removed 
the paintings and statuary to the Corcoran Gallery, and the 
engravings to the Library of Congress. Many years later the 
majority of these were returned to the Smithsonian. Little 
of importance, however, occurred until 1903, when the Harriet 
Lane Johnston collection of paintings and other art work was 
bequeathed to the Corcoran Art Gallery, subject to the condi- 
tion that should a National Gallery be established in Washing- 
ton they should become the property of that Gallery. Since 
it was evident that Mrs. Johnston had been unaware of the 
existence of the collection in the Smithsonian Institution.^ a 
friendly suit was started to decide whether this collection 
was within the meaning and intent of the law a National 
Gallery of Art. The Supreme Court of the District of Col- 
umbia decreed that it was, and in 1906 awarded the Johnston 
collection to the Institution. The National Gallery of Art 
; thereupon assumed its present title, but continued to be ad- 
] ministered in connection with the National Museum until July 
I I, 1920, when, by Act of Congress, its connection with the 



272 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Museum was severed, and it became the seventh administrative 
branch under the Institution. 

The permanent collection now includes the following im- 
portant units : 

I. The Harriet Lane JohustiUi Collection, comprising 31 
pieces, paintings, marbles and miscellaneous objects. 

II. The IVUliam T. Ezvus Collection, Mr. Evans, a 
citizen of Montclair. N. J., in 1907 announced his intention 
of donating 36 representative paintings of American artists. 
Subsequently he gradually increased the number, with the 
result that now (1922) the Evans Collection includes 151 
paintings, representing 106 ^ contemporary American artists, 
besides many wood-engravings. 

III. The Charles L. Freer Collection, presented in 1906, 
and now Ma\^, 1922, being arranged in a new gallery (p. ), 
situated S. W. of the old Smithsonian Building, and soon to 
be opened to the public. 

IV. Contemporary French Drawings. In July, 1915, the 
National Galler}^ received from France a collection of draw- 
ings by 82 contemporary French artists, all of which are 
autographed. 

V. The Ralph Cross Johnson Collection, received in 
1919, and consisting of 24 paintings by old blasters, Dutch, 
Flemish, Italian and English. 

VI. The 'Rev. Alfi^ed Duane Pell Collection of porcelains, 
potteries and antique furniture. 

Entrance Alcove (E. to W.) : Ignacio Ziiloaga, Rosita; 
Gabrini, Grand Canal, \''enice ; /. William Fosdick, Adoration 
of St. Joan of Arc (Fire etching) ; Eliliu Vcdder, The Cup of 
Death; Elliott Daingcrfield, The Child of Alary: William 
Ba.vter Closson, The Angel; Hugo Ballin, The Sybilla Europa 
prophesies the Massacre of the Innocents; Jose de Ribcra, Job 
and his Comforters. 

Through central N. door we enter — 

Room A. North Wall (E. to W.). Stanley Grant 
Middleton, (1852- ), Portrait of Hon. Andrew D. White; 
Lucian N. Pozcell (1846- ). Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone 
River; Carroll Beckzcith (1852-1917). The Blacksmith; George 
da Madura Piexotto, Portrait of Julius Bien, Sr. ; Sydney 
Laurence, "The Top of the Continent." Mt. AIcKinley, Alaska: 
Arvid F. Nyholm {1^166- ). Capt. John Ericsson. 

West Wall: Tliomas Mof'ati, Grand Canyon of the Yel- ' 
lowstone. 

South Wall: /. J'an Lerius (1823-76), Death Preferred; 
Frederick E. Church (1826-1900), Aurora Borealis ; Henry \ 



THE NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART ^^i 

Ulke (1821-1910), Portrait of Joseph Henry; Thomas LeClear, 
Gen. U. S. Grant; Edward Moran, The Ocean, the Highway 
of all Nations; Alexander H. Wyant (1836-92), The Flume— 
Opalescent River, Adirondacks. 

East Wall: Thomas Buchanan Read (1822-72), Portrail 
of Thomas Buchanan Read ; Gilbert Stuart, George Washing- 
ton (lent by Supreme Court of District of Columbia) ; W. H. 
Fisk (1797-1873), Portrait of George Catlin. 

The N. door leads into — 

Room B. North Wall (E. to W.), George Innness (1825- 
94), Elf Ground; William Sartain (1843- ;, Algerian Water 
Carrier; Nicolaas Berchcm (1620-83), Landscape with Cattle; 
William Morris Hunt (1824-79), The Spouting Whale. 

West Wall: William Jiirian KanJa (1871 — ), Evening; 
John W. fi-atty (1851- ), Plymouth Hills; Henry Ward 
Ranger (1858-1916), Entrance to the Harbor; W. S. Conrow, 
Portrait of Dr. W. H. Dall ; Charles Melville Dewey 
(1849- ), The Close of Day; Guy C. Wiggins (1883- ), 
Gloucester Harbor; John Francis Murphy (1853-1921), The 
Path to the Village; G. P. A. Hcaly (1808-94), Portrait of 
William C. Preston; Arthur Turnhull Hill, After a Storm, 
Amagansett ; Chawicey Foster Eydcr (1868- ), Landscape. 

South Wall: Salvatti Aly, The Adieu; Jean Gustave 

Jacquet, Female Head; Eastman Johnson (1824-1906), Portrait 

of Mrs. Cross ; Eisman Semenowski, Head of Young Woman. 

East Wall: Worthington Whitteredge (1820-1910), Noon 

in the Orchard ; Eugene Verboeckhoven, Sheep ; Mrs. M. 

Leslie BusJi-Brown, Portrait of Miss Ellen Day Hale; Childe 

Hassam (1859- )> The Georgian Chair; Frederick B. Williams 

(1872- ), Conway Hills; Homer D. Martin, The Iron Mine, 

1 Port Henry, N. Y. ; Flarriet Blackstone, Soldat de Crimee; 

! /. Alden Weir (1852-1919), A Gentlewoman; Osman Hamdy 

Bey (1842-1910), Tomb of "Mahomet the Gentleman," at 

Broussa ; Hillner, Alpine Landscape. 

1 Room C. {William T. Evans Collection). North Wall: 
Henry Golden Dearth (1864- ), Chu-rch at Montreuil ; Wyatt 
Eaton (1849-96), ^Portrait of William T. Evans; Thomas 
Wilmcr Dciving (1851- ), Summer. 
I j West Wall : Edward Lord Weeks, Hindoo Merchants ; 
ICarleton Wiggins (1848- ), Evening After a Shower; 
^Theodorff Robinson (1852-96), La Vachere ; H. Hobart 
\Nichols (1869- ), Moonrise at Ogunquit; E. Irving Cause 
((1866- y, Elk-Foot, Pueblo Tribe; Robert F. Blum, (1857- 
I1903), Canal in Venice, San Travaso Quarter; W. Granville 



274 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Smith (1870- ), Grey Day; /. Foxcroft Cole (1837-92), 
Late Afternoon near Providence; Frank De Haven (1856- ), 
Castle Creek Canyon, South Dakota. 

South Wall: Will H. Loiu (1853- ), ^Christmas Morn; 
Otto Walter Beck (1864- ), "Suffer the Little Children to 
come unto Me" (three panels) ; George Fuller (1822-84), 
Portrait of Henry B. Fuller; Charles Frederick Naegele 
(1857), Mother Love; George Fuller, Ideal Head; Otto 
Walter Beck, Christ hefore Pilate. 

East Wall: IrzHng R. Wiles (1S61- ), Russian Tea: 
Homer D. Martin (1836-97), Evening on the Seine; William 
E. Norton (1848-1916), Night Attack on the General Arm- 
strong off Pico, Azores; Irving R. Wiles, *The Brown 
Kimono ; Sanford R. Gifford, The Villa Malta ; George Inness, 
^September Afternoon; Frederick S. Church, *The Black 
Orchid; Homer D. Martin, Lower Ausable Pond; Charles 
Wan-en Eaton, (1857- ), Gathering Mists; John La Farge 
(1835-1910), *Visit of Nicodemus to Christ. 

In the centre of the room : Bronze Bust of William T. 
Evans (1904), by /. S. Hartley (1845-1912). 

Room D {William T. Evans Collection, continued) : 
North Wall: (E. to W.) : Elisabeth Nourse (i86a- ), Fisher 
Girl of Picardy; Anders Zorn (1860-1920), Portrait of a 
Lady; John W. Alexander, June. 

West Wall: /. H. Twachtman (1853-1902), The End 
of Winter ; William E. Norton, Mussel Gatherers ; /. Francis 
Murphy (1853-1921), Indian Summer; Alexander H. Wyant, 
Spring; Leon Dabo (1868), Evening on the Hudson; Wiilinm 
M. Chase (1849- ), Shinnecock Hills; Corieton Wiggins, 
The Pastue Lot; George Glenn Nezvell (1870- ), Mists of 
the Morning; Cluirlotte B. Coman (1833- ), Early Summer; 
Frank A. Bicknell (1866- ). October Morning; Alfred C. 
Hou'land (1838-1909), Friendly Neighbors: R. Szrnin Gifford, 
On the Lagoon, Venice; /. Aldcn Weir, Upland Pasture. 

South Wall: Childe Hassain, Sunrise, Navesink High- 
lands: Lillian M. Genth, Adagio; Frederick M. Waiigh, 
* After a North-Easter ;• C/iflr/c^? Melville Dezcey (1849- ), 
The Harvest Moon ; Lillian M. Genth, Depth of the Woods. 

East Wall : Bruce Crane, Afternoon ; Guy C. Wiggins,, 
Columbus Grcle, Winter ; /. H. Twachtman, Fishing Boats 
at Gloucester; Ben Foster (i8S2s ), Birch-Clad Hills; 
William Langson Lathrop, The Three Trees; Emil Carlsen,; 
The South Strand; /. H. Tivachtman, Round Hill Road; 
The Same, The Torrent; Leonard Ochfinan. Morning Haze;i 
Frederick S. Church, Circe. , 



THE NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART 275 

Centre Case: Selections from Recent Bequest of Mrs. 
Mary Huston Eddy, including Isabey, Marie Antoinette ; The 
Same, Duchess of Devonshire; Nodirt (After Lc Brim), 
Mme. Le Brun and Child; Artist Unknown, Taj Mahal; 
Artist Unknozvn, Sultana of Shah Jehan. 

Returning through RooiUi B, we reach, through N. door — • 

Room E. North Wall (E. to W.) : Albert Pike Lewis, 
Octoher Breezes; George de Forest Brush (1855- ), The 
Moose Chase; Louis Paul Dcssar (1867- ), The Watering 
Place; Frederick^ Ballard Williams (1872- ), A Glade by the 
Sea; Ralph A. Blakelock, Sunset, Navarro Ridge; Paul 
Dougherty (1877- ), Sun and Storm. 

West Wall : Henry W. Ranger, The Cornfield ; Douglas 
Volk, *The Boy With the Arrow ; Henry IV. Ranger, Groton 
Long Point Dunes; George Inness, Sundov/n; Henry IV. 
Ranger, *Bradbury's Mill Pond No. 2; Clara Tagart Mac- 
Chesney, A Good Story; Henry IV. Ranger, Connecticut 
Woods. 

South Wall : George Inness, Niagara ; William Henry 
Hozve (1846- ), Monarch of the Farm; George H. Bogert 
(1864- ), Sea and Rain; Charles H. Davis (1856- ). Sum- 
mer; Albert L. Groll (1866- ), Laguna — 'New Mexico; 
Charles Paul Gruppe (i860- ), The Meadow Brook. 

East Wall: William S. Robinson (1861- ), Monhegan 
Headlands; Alphonse Jongers (1872- ), ^Portrait of William 
T. Evans; Edward Gay (1837- ), The Hillside; George 
Elmer Broume (1871- ), The Wain Team; James Henry 
Moser (1854-1913), Evening Glow, Mt. Mclntire; Orlando 
Rouland (1871- ), Portrait of J. J. Shannon; Winslozv 
Homer, *High Cliff, Coast of Maine. 

The N. door opens into — 

Room F. North Wall (E. to W.) : Attributed to 
.Raphael, Madonna and Child; Narcisse Diaz de la Pena 
1(1809-74), Landscape; Walter ShirJazv, Study of Head — 
I Madam Capri. 

I West Wall : Herman Safteven, Landscape ; Harrington 
^Fitzgerald (1847- ), The Wreck; Wyatt Eaton. Ariadne; 
\ George Henry Story (1835- ), Portrait of Abraham Lin- 
Icoln; Adriene Moreau (1843-1906), Cro^ssing the Ferry; 
Henry Siddons Mozvbray (1858- ), Idle Hours; Artist Un- 
knozvn, George Washington; Walter Shirlazv, Water Lilies; 
\Miigene Louis Gabriel Isabey, The Gathering Storm. 
; South Wall: Loii'is Paul Dessar (1867- ), Return to the 
iFold; Frank Duveneck (1848- ), Portrait of Walter Shir- 
|law; Frank B. Mayer, Independence; /. Aid en JVeir, Port- 
irait of Wyatt Eaton. 



^-j^y RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

East Wall: F. C. Church, Mountain Scene; Roswell M. 
Shmtleff (1838-1915), The Mysterious Woods; IVilliam 
Edgar Marshall (1837-96), Portrait of Henry W. Long- 
fellow; A. G. Powers, Portrait of Franklin Pierce; Mar 
Bohm (1868- ), The Happy Mother; George IV. Maynard, 
Dr. Edward Maynard; George P. A. Healy, Portrait of John 
Tyler; /. Diday (1854- ), Mountain Scene; William H. 
Holmes, The Wanderlusters. 

The E dcor leads into — 

Room G. (Ralph Cross Johnson Collection). North Wall 
(E. to W.): John Constable (1776-1837), Dedham. Vale- 
Summer Morning-; Francesco Giiardi (1712-93), View in 
Rome, with the Church of Ara Coeli ; Titian, Portrait of a 
Cardinal; Francesco Giiardi, Ruins and Figures. 

West Wall: Sir Thomas Lazvrence (1769-1830), Portrait 
of Mrs. Towry; William Hogarth (1697-1764), Portrait of 
Mrs. Price; Giacomo Francia (1486-1557), The Mystic Mar- 
riage of St. Catherine of Alexandria; Nicholaes Maes (1632- 
93), A Burgomaster; Govaert Flinch, (1615-60), Madonna 
and Child; Sir Henry Raeburn (1756-1823), Portrait of 
Archibald Skirving, Esq.; George Romncy (1734-1802), 
Portrait of Sir Sampson Wright. 

South Wall: Sir Joshua Reynolds (1722,-92), Portrait 
of Viscount Hill; /. M. IV. Turner (1775-1851), Edinburgh: 
A Painting of Sunlight and Air; Richard Wilson (1714-82), 
Summer Afternoon About 4 P. M. ; Lorenzo Lotto (1480- 
1554), A Venetian Senator; Sebastiano Mainardi (d. 1513). 
Madonna and Child; Sir Joshua Reynolds, The Duchess of 
Ancaster ; David Cox, Outskirts of a Wood. 

East Wall : Thomas Gainsborough, A Family at the 
Cottage Door; Rembrandt, Portrait of a Man Wearing a, 
Large Hat; Peter Paul Rubens, The Holy Family, with St. 
Elizabeth; Richard Wilson, Grand Italian Landscape: Sun- 
set Glow; Bernard Van Orley (1493-1542), The Virgin and 
Child: Sir Thomas Laurence, Portrait of Lord Abercorn; 
Thomas Gainsborough, Lord Mulgrave in Naval Uniform. 

Returning across Room F to W. door, we reach — 

Room H : Harriet Lane Johnston Collection. North Wall : 
(E. to W.) : Rembrandt Pcale, George Washington (loaned) ; 
Charles W. Peale, George Washington (loaned) ; Thomas 
Rossiter, The Prince of Wales (Edward VII) at Washin?:- 
ton's Tomb; George Frederick JJ'atts, Love and Life: Rc''. 
J. A. Ocrtel, The Walk to Gethsemene: Artist Unknoum 
(after Correggio), Aladonna and Child; Francis Pourbus the\\ 
Younger (1569-1622). Portrait of Tosepha Bocgart. 



THE NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART 2-77 

West Wall: Oiho V<in Veen, Nativity; Sir William 
Becchey (i753-i839), Portrait of Miss Murray; Sir Thomas 
Lawrence (1769-1830), *Lady Essex as Juliet; Titian (copy), 
Portrait of Artist's Daughter; Sir Joshua Reynolds, *Portrait 
of Mrs. Hamimiond ; Bernardino Luini (1460-1535), *A 
Madonna and Child; Walter Shirlazv, The Inn, Germany; Johi 
Hoppner (1758-1810), *'Mrs. Abington ; Cornelis-Janson Van 
Cenlen (1594-1666), Portrait of Mme. Tulp ; G. Mazzolini 
(about 1560), Portrait of Beatrice Cenci; Gorge Romney 
(1734-1802), *Portrait oif Miss Kirkpatrick. 

South Wall: Walter Shirlazv, Roses; Artist Unknoivn, 
Salome with Head of John the Prophet; G. P. A. Healy, 
M. F. P. G. Guizot ; Dubois Fenelon Hasbrouck (i860- ), 
Autumn Landscape; Raphael [original or replica), Holy 
Family. 

East Wall : William T. S medley , One Day in June ; Ben- 
jamin West, Portrait of the Artist; Robert David Gauley 
. (1875- ), The Fur Muff; John Constable, The Valley Farm; 
Sir John Watson Gordon (1798-1864), The Prince of Wales 
(Edward VII) ; Edivin Lord Weeks, Street Scene in the East; 
^Frederic Remington, Fired On; Harper Pennington (1854- 
1920), Portrait of James Buchanan Johnston; Attributed to 
Sir Godfrey Ivneiler, Portrait. 

I Case in the center of the room : Bible on which Mr. 

Buchanan took oath of office as President, March 4. 1857; 

First message sent over the Atlantic Cable, by Queen Victoria 

to President Buchanan, August 16, 1858; Miniature of James 

Buchanan, by /. Henry Brown; Photograph of Queen Vic- 

oria with autograph signature, 1898, 

ij'l This room also contains the following pieces of statuary: 

^^enry Rinehart, Henry Elliot Johnston (Marble bust) ; The 

'Same, Mrs. Harriet Lane Johnston (Marble bust) ; The Same, 

Herfry E. Johnston, Jr. (Two years old), as Cupid (Full- 

ength Marble) ; The Same, James Buchanan (Marble bust). 

Returning through Room F, we reach, by N. door — 

Room I. West Wall (N. to S.) : Alexander H. Wyant, 

Vutumn at Arkville; John W. Alexander, A Toiler; Edivin 

Villard Deming (i860- ), The Mourning Brave; William 

Lenry Hozve (1846- ), My Day At Home; Edzvardo 

<omagois. Refectory. 

South Wall: Orlando Rouland. Portrait of John Muir; 
I P. A. Healy. Portrait of Vinnie Ream; R. E. W. Earl, 
Vndrew Jackson. 

East Wall: Max Weyl (1837-1914), Klingle Ford; Ed- 
ward W. Redfield, The Island; Attributed to Hobbcma, The 

II] 



278 RIDER'S WASHINGTOxX 

Old 'Mill ; Rubens, The Infant Jesus and St. John ; Frederick 
Waugh, Southwesterly Gale, St. Ives. 

The E. door leads into — 

Room J. {William T. Evans Collection continued) , aSIorth 
Wall (E. to W.) : Henry Oliver Walker, Portrait of Mrs. 
Evans and Son; Hugo Ballin, The Lesson; Louis Loeh, The 
Siren. 

West Wall: Louise (Hozvland King) Cox, May Flowers; 
Henry Oliver Walker, Musa Regina; Edgar Melville Ward, 
The Blockmaker ; Kenyan Cox, Plenty. 

South Wall : Winslozv Homer, The Visit of the ^Mistress ; 
Robert Weir, The Mirror; Henry Oliver Walker, *Eros et 
Musa; Theodore Robinson, Old Church at Giverny; Charles 
Courtney Curran (1861- ), The Perfume of Roses. 

East Wall: William Sergeant Kendall, An Interlude; 
Henry B. Fuller, Illusions ; William Baxter Palmer Closson 
(1848- ), Nymph and Water Babies at Play. 

In Center: Bien Aimee, A Bacchante (marble). Re- 
turning across Room I, we enter, through W. door — 

Room K. North Wall (E. to W.) : Albertinelli (copy), 
Salutation; Frank Duveneck (1848-1914), Water Carriers, 
Venice; Copy of Del Sarto, Holy Family. 

West Wall : Sir William Beechey, Mrs. Hawkins and 
Family; Guido Reni, St. Michael; George Frederick Watts, 
Lady and Two Children. 

South Wall : Painting on Cloth in Vegetal Colors, St. 
Anthony and the Lions (loaned). 

East Wall: Richard Wilson (1713-82). Rome and thei 
Campagna; Perugino, Madonna and Child; E. Keyser, Gath-| 
ering Flowers. 

In Center: WiUiam H. Rinehart, The Sleeping Children 
(marble group;. 

North Pavilion : National Gallery of Art continued^ 
South Wall (W. to E.) : i. Augustus St. Gaud ens, Bronze} 
statue of Abraham Lincoln (reduced copy of original in 
Lincoln Park, Chicago) ; 2. Harriet Hosmer, Puck (marble) ; 
3. Case containing Sevres porcelains, 16 specimens; 4. JVillinin 
F. Halsall. The Song of the Sea (painting) ; 5. WilUan 
Coupcr, Tennyson's "Princess" (marble) ; 6. M. Herbert] 
Roman Soldier Legionary (plaster) ; 7. Daikoku, Japancs' 
God of Wealth, seated on bale of rice, symbol of agricultur-l 
(bronze) ; 8. Louis Potter, The Fire Dance (bronze) ; 0. Lau)i\ 
Thompson, Napoleon (bronze, heroic size) ; 10. P. F. Conif. 
nelly, Cordelia (marble) ; 11. Case containing American Ar* 



THE NATIONAL GALLERY OF ART 279 

Pottery; 12. Paolo Veronese, Untitled painting; 13. Horatio 
Greenough, Samuel F. B. Morse (marble bust). 

North Wall (E. to W.) : i. Daiiiel Chester French, Hon. 
John Sherman (marble bust) ; 2. Case containing porcelains, 
old and new Europe; 3. Case containing Chinese and Japanese 
blue and white porcelains; 4. Case containing Chinese and 
Japanese Pottery, large and small bowls, vases, etc. ; 5. Case 
containing Capi di Monte porcelains (Naples, Italy), figurines, 
vases, bowls, also bronze figures, etc. ; 6, Moses W. Dykaar, 
Hon. Champ Clark (marble bust) ; 7. Royal porcelain vase, 
Berlin. 

North Pavilion, North Alcove. The Rev. Alfred Duane 
Pell Collection of Porcelains, Potteries and Antique Furni- 
ture (the porcelain exhibits enumerated in the preceding 
paragraph also belong to this collection). 

North Wall beginning L. of entrance door (W. to E.) : 
I. Vitrine, France, i8th cent., containing Meissen ware; 2. 
Florentine Cabinet with Ivory inlay, containing English por- 
celain : Worcester, Crown Derby, Doulton, Spode, etc, ; 3. 
French Commode, copy of original in Chantilly Museum, sur- 
mounted by three large Sevres vases ; 4. Case containing 
(above) French banquet set (bronze), by Thomiere, i8th 
cent., special artizan to Napoleon I; (below) Collection of 
silverware, English and German, including tankards and other 
large pieces in fine preservation ; 5. Florentine secretary-cabinet 
with ivory inlay. 19th cent. ; 6. Sevres cabinet of bronze and 
porcelain, period of Napoleon I ; 7-8 Walnut bedstead and 
bureau, style of Henry II, made for Centennial Exposition of 
1876, by Potter & Stymiis, New York; 9. Bronze clock, after 
Jean Goujon. 

l'j North Wall (E. to W.) : i. Porcelain and glassware 
ffrom various European countries ; 2. Porcelains : Vienna, 
;i Carlsbad, Meissen, Berlin, Russia. 

li 1 West Wall : i. Walnut cabinet, France or Flanders, 19th 
:ent., containing Part of Service from Chateau Tuilleries 
mder Napoleon III (bought by Dr. Pell's uncle at public sale 
in 1871) : (above) Par of bronze candelabra, France; Sevres 
ase, mottled blue and green porcelain. 

South Wall (W. to E.) : Moses IV. Dykaar, bust of Maj. 

; pen. George O. Squier, U.S.A.; 2. Vitrine. France, i8th cent., 

1^: containing vases, cups, etc; 3. Piano, tulip wood and bronze, 

^^rance, 1849 ; 4. Florentine cabinet with ivory inlay, containing 

'orcelains : plates, vases, cups, etc. Note especially Meissen 

'late. "The Lute Player," after Eglon Vander Meer; 5 

itrine, France, i8th cent, containing: Meissen and Berlin 

gures, Copenhagen and Rostrand (Sweden) porcelains. 



28o RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Center Exhibits (W. to E.) : i. Desk of elegant design, 
19th cent, copy of original in Louvre; 2-4. Cases containing 
pre-historic ceramics from Casas Grandes, Chihuahua, Alexico 
(loaned by the Archaeological Society of Washington). 

e. East Wing — Collections on Paleontology 

Main Floor — Continued: East Wing. This wing is de- 
voted to Palaeontology; the sky-lighted East Hall contains 
the large spectacular exhibits of Fossil Reptiles and a few 
Fossil Fishes; the Southeastern Pavilion contains the Fossil 
Birds and Mammals; the South Aisle is devoted to Fossil 
Invertebrates, and an Historic Exhibit of the Geologic Strata 
of North America; and the North Aisle contains Fossil 
Plants, Petrified Woods, etc. 

Central Hall. Upon entering this room from the Ro- 
tunda, the visitor cannot fail to notice, directly facing him on 
the second story of the East wall, a large mural painting 
(on canvas, 25 x 11 ft.), *Diana of the Tides, by John Elliot 
(p. ). It depicts the goddess standing erect in her chariot, 
rainbow-tinted sea-shell, drawn by four horses, typifying the 
flowing of the tides. 

The principal exhibits are arranged down the center of 
the hall: i. (L.) Case containing Skull of a Two-horned 
Dinosaur, Diceratops hatcheri Lull, the only known species 
of Ceratopsia without a horn on the nose; 2. (R.) Case con- 
taining Skull of a Three-horned Dinosaur, Triceratops cali- 
(oniis Marsh. Both of these specimens are from Upper 
Cretaceous, Converse County, Wyoming; 3. Mounted skeleton 
of *Basitosaurus cet aides Owen, a sea-living mammal 
of the Eocene period, between three and four million years , 
ago. This exhibit, obtained from deposits in the vicinity of i 
Cocoa, Alabama, is made up of the best preserved portions . 
of two partial skeletons. Length, 55 ft; 4. (R.) Giant Deer, | 
Alee giganteiis (Blumenbacch), from Pleistocene clays under-; 
lying peat deposits, Ireland; 5. (R.) American Mastodon,; 
Mammut Americamim Kerr, from peat deposits, Church, j| 
Michigan.; 6. (L.) Mastodon, a second specimen from Pleis-; 
tocene swamp deposit, Pulaski County, Ind.; 7. Cast of a^ 
Dinotherium giganteum, an extinct quadruped related to the| 
mammoth and elephant ; from Eppelsheim, Rhine Valley ; 8. 
Small case containing skeleton of Epigaultis, an extinct rodent;' 
9. *Horned Dinosaur, Triceratops prorsus Marsh, from. 
Lance formation, "Ceratops Beds," Converse County, Wyoming'. 

A reconstructed skeleton, from bones of several specimens; com. 
pare miniature resto.-ation, modeled by Charles R. Knight; also, oi*! 



PALEONTOLOGY COLLECTION 281 

opposite S. wall, large painting showing Dinosaur in natural habitat of 
swamps and pools, by Charles R. Knight, Charles Livingston Bull and 
Walter King Stone. 

10. Life-size Restoration of an Armored Dinosaur, Stcgo- 
saurus stenops Marsh, modelled conjecturally^ from bones 
in the Museum; 11. Skeleton of an Armored Dinosaur, made 
up of the bones of several individuals of about the same size 
and proportions, all from the same quarry; 12. *Skeleton of 
an Armored Dinosaur, exhibited lying in the position in which 
it was found, in the sandstone of the Morrison Beds, of the 
Jurassic period, near Canyon City, Col. ; it is said to be the 
most perfect specimen yet found. 

Wall Exhibits. The visitor may now make the circuit 
of the wall exhibits, from R. to L., beginning at the N. E. 
cor. These exhibits are displayed partly in four series of 
table-cases oi five sections each, extending from the four 
corners of the hall along the N. and S. walls, and partly in 
vertical frames and cases in the central and upper wall spaces. 

Northeast Cases: Notable exhibits: Sets of Spines from tail of 
Stegosaur. Skull of Crocodile-likei reptile, Rutiodon carolincnsis Em- 
monsi. Skull of fossil Crocodile, Tlioracosaitriis neocesariensis. Portions 
of skeletons of various carnivorous reptiles: teeth, claws, forefoot, etc. 
Extinct Batrachian, Actinodon frossardi Gaudry, from Lower Permian 
(cast). Fossil Batrachians, Carboniferous; Footprints made by Am- 
phibians. Skeleton of extinct 'Kt^tilt, Diadectc^s phaseolinus Cope, Per- 
mian, from Red River Oil Fields, Comanche Co., Okla. Above on wall. 
Paddle of Marine Reptile, PHosaiirus bracliydirss Owen; Reptile tracks 
and Rain Drop Impressions; Extinct ]\Iarine Reptile, Ichtliyosaurus 
qnadrisissus (Erass), Lower Jurassic, Wurtemburg, Germany; Ichthyo- 
saurus interrmedius Conybeare, Lower Jurassic, Lymef Regis, England; 
Two skeletons of flying Reptiles Rhainphorhychus gcinmingi Meyer, 
both from Lithographic Quarries, Copper Jurassic, near Eichstadt, 
Germany. In central wall space: (ist large ca'^e) Ceratosaurus nasicornis 
{Marsh), an extinct f!esh-eating reptile, from sandstones of the Morrison 
i Beds, Jurassic, near Canyon City, Colo.; this specimen, partly embedded 
in rock, measures 1 7 ft. 4 in. to tip of tail: (2nd large case) Giant Spined 
Reptile, Dimetrodon gigas Cope, Permian formation, Baylor Co., Texas; 
1 Above on wall: Two exhibits of Fossil Fish, Gyrodus circulariss 
I (Agassiz) ; Jurassic, Bavaria (the two together form an unusually 
i complete skeleton, showing scales; it was divided in two by the cleavage 
of the stone containing it). 

' Northwest cases: Notable exhibits: Fossil remains of Mastodon and 
Mammoth; teeth, portions of skull, etc. Tusks of Northern Mammoth, 
^Elephas priiuigenius. Sipecimens from carcass of a Mammoth found 
frozen in a cliff along the^ Beresovka River, in N., E. Siberia, in 1901; 
Ihair, fat, blood and stomach contents. Collection of skulls and front 
and hind feet, showing the evolution of the Horse, from the primitive 
Eohippus, Lower Eocene through the Mesohippus Merychippits and 
Hipparion, to the modern' horse. Above, on the wall space, are three 
jextinct fishes, including a Fossil Monk Fish. Squatina alifera; also 
,Tusks from Mammoth from banks of Yukon River, Alaska. Measure- 
Iment 8 ft. 8 in, 

] Southwestern cases: (W. to E.) i. Skeleton of fossil Porpoise, 
\Delphinodon dividum. Fossil Sharks' Teeth (note especially the huge 
I teeth of the Carcharodon megalodon) {Agassis), Eocene period 



282 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

from near Charleston, S. C; from the evidence of the teeth it is calcu- 
lated that this species attained a maximum length of 75 ft. Fossil 
Fishes: Oldest known species from the Ordovician beds of Colorado. 
On wall above: specimens of fossil fishes, from Green River shales — 
I. Lepisosteus simplex Leidy; 2. Lepisostus atrox; also Portheus bolossus 
Cope. 

During the Cretaceous period, the region now included by Texas, 
New Mexico, the Great Plains States and Canada was an inland sea, 
inhabited by huge fish, such as the Portheus, by large swimming 
reptiles, the Mosasaurs, by the Toothed Diving Bird, the Hesperornis, 
while Pterodactyls soared above it. All these species are represented 
in the adjacent exhibits. 

In Central Wall Space: *Duck-billed Reptile, Trachodon annectens 
Marsh, Upper Cretaceous, Wyoming. This monster measures 26 ft. 
4 in. in length, and stands 8 ft. high at the hips (compare adjacent 
restoration, a painting by Charles R. Knight) ; Glass case containing the 
skeleton of a Marine Reptile, Brachanhenias lucasi Williston, the 
shortest-necked Plesiosaur yet discovered; it is exhibited as found in 
the Benton limestone, Ottowa County, Kansas, the rock being cut away 
only sufficiently to expose the underside of jaws, skull, backbone and 
ribs. Case containing Fossil Eocene Fishes from Green River Basin 
of Wyoming. 

These exhibits are from shale deposits of the Eocene (Tertiary) 
age, formed some 3,000,000 to 4,000,000 years ago. Even, in that early 
day fishes had become so far specialized as to be very modern in 
appearance. Several living families are represented by these fossil 
forms, most of the present species being confined entirely to tropic or 
sub-tropic zones. The specimens here exhibited are all frdsh water 
forms. 

Southeast Cases: Extinct Saurwrae, or Reptile-like Birds with 
toothed jaws, biconcave vertebrae, free metacarpals ending in claws, 
and long tail with feathers arranged in pairs. Case contains casts of 
Hesperornis regalis; Moa feathers; plaster cast of Archaeopteryx (ear- 
liest known bird); egg of Aepyornis; Skull of giant bird, Phororachos 
longissiinus, from Miocene of Patagonia. Mosasaurs, long, slender 
Reptiles from Upper Cretaceous Period, measuring from 6 to 40 ft. 
in length. 4 and 5. Fossil Turtles. The 20 specimens in Case 5, are 
all of the fossil land turtle, Stylemys nebrascensis Leidy, showing 
growth from young to mature individual. Above, on wall: Skull ot 
Tylosaurus proriger; alsoi Wing-bones of a Flying Reptile, Pteranodoii 
ingens Marsh, from Niobrara Chalk Beds (the expanse of wing in this 
specimen is estimated! at 22 ft.). Adjacent is a restoration of an allied 
species, Petranodon longiccps Marsh, a gift of the Peabody Museum, 
Yale University, which owns the original. 

Southeast Pavilion: Fossil AIammals^ Birds and Reptiles. 
The following are the principal exhibits in this room : Central 
Cases, from S. to N. : i. Great Cave Bear, Ursus Spelaev.s\\ 
Blumenbach, Pleistocene, near Ariege, France; 2. Two- 
horned Rhinoceros, Dicerathcrcum cooki Peterson. Miocene,| 
Agate Springs, Nebr. ; 3. Skeleton of the smallest knownij 
Dinosaur, Brachyceratops Montancnsis Gilmore, from northern! 
Montana; 4. Short-footed extinct Rhinoceros. Tclcvccrn.<i 
fossigcr, Late Tertiary, Phillips County, Kansas; S\ 
*Extinct Reptile, Camptosaunis brozvni Gilmore, froml 
Jurassic, Albany County, "Wyoming (a typical species of 
Ornithopod, or Bird-footed Dinosaur ; in the same easel 



PALEONTOLOGY COLLECTION 283 

is a smaller allied species, C. nanus Marsh ; 6. Extinct 
Bird, Emeus crassiis Owen, from Quaternary deposits. 
South Island, N. Z. ; 7, Giant Moa, Dinomis maximus; 8. 
*Extinct Toothed Bird, Hespcrornis regalis Marsh, from 
Niobrara Chalk Beds, Kansas (this is one of the rarest 
American fossils, and the specimen here shown is one of 
the very few sufficiently complete to be exhibited in an articu- 
lated condition) ; 9. Extinct Reptile, Thescelosaurus neglecttis 
Gilmore, Upper Cretaceous, Converse County, Wyoming; 
Extinct Mammal, Brontotheriuin hatcheri, from western 
Nebraska ; Case containing extinct Wolverine and Peccary, 
from near Cumberland, Md. ; also extinct Wolf, from near 
Los Angeles, Calif.; Case containing skulls and bones of ex- 
tinct Horses, Musk-oxen, and notably, Entelodonts, an extinct 
group of Ungulates, having no living representatives, but re- 
motely related to the Pigs and Peccaries ; extinct Armadillo- 
like animal, Schistoplcuniui typiis Nodrot, whose remains are 
found in the Argentine ; Saber-tooth Cat, an unusually com- 
plete specimen, from the "Big Bad Lands" of S. Dakota; 
Case containing skulls of extinct Sea-Co w. Camel and various 
|species of Rhinoceros; Right hand leg of Brontosaurits, 10 ft. 
in height, from Jurassic, Colo.; Hind legs and pelvis of 
AUosannis fragilis, from Jurassic, Colo. Wall case, northeast 
corner, containing: Skulls, bones and models of large horned 
Dinosaur, Triccratops, and of the Duck-billed Dinosaur, 
\rrachodon. On wall above : Skeleton of long swimming 
reptile. Tylosaurus proriger Cope. This specimen is 25 ft. 
in length. Wall case at southeast corner contains : Fine 
series of skulls of the large plains-living mammals, the 
Titanothercs. More than 20 species are represented. 

South Aisle: The north, central and south series of ex- 
hibits in this room are each scientifically grouped in an 
ascending scale from west to east, and are most profitably 
visited in that order. 

; The visitor may now proceed to the South Aisle, devoted 
•mainly to Fossil Invertebrates. 

,1 I. North Wall : *North American Historical Geology 
p^xhibit. This series, occupying the entire length of the wall, 
consists of : a. a long, narrow wall map, or chart, showing 
I cross-section of the geologic strata of the North American 
Continent, from the Pacific to the Atlantic, the line followed 
.leing a broken one, shifting to N. or S., according to the 
.location of the best known areas : b. table cases of paleontologic 
i Exhibits, arranged chronologically, to show the characteristic 
k^ossils and rocks belonging to each successive geologic period ; 
i 



284 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

c. a series of North American maps, one for each geologic 
period. This collection well repays a prolonged visit. 

Central Exhibits (W. to E.) : i. Specimen of an ancient 
Sea Beach, Cambrian (Potsdam) Sandstone, from Port Henry, 
N. Y. 2. (Specimen of sandstone with -rill marks, LinguLi 
ciineata Conrad; Silurian (Medina sandstone) Lockport, N.Y. ; 
Fossiliferous sandstone, from Knoxville, N.Y. ; Fossiliferous 
shale, Lower Cambrian; .Fossiliferous marble. Carboniferous, 
from Durham Co., England. 3. Specimen of alternating cal- 
careous and sandy shale, Ordovician ; Quartz Conglomerate, 
Silurian. 4. Specimen of Edgewise Conglomerate, Ordovician 
period ; Limestone Conglomerate, Mesozoic. 5. Case contain- 
ing stalactites and stalagmites from caves near Harrington 
Sound, Bermuda; reef-forming corals, including Brain Coral, 
Diplodia ccrehriformis; Sea Ginger, Millepora alciconiis; Star 
Coral, Ociilina diffusa. 6. Table Case containing specimens of 
large fossil Crinoid, or Sea Lily, Scyphocrinns elegans Zenker, 
Lower Devonian. 7. Fossil Crinoids continued. 8. Fossil 
Shells, Sea Weeds, etc. 9. Table Case containing Vermes orj 
Worms: one of the rarest types of fossils, because these ani-| 
mals have scarcey any hard portions to fossilize. 10. Gigantic! 
Cretaceous Clam, from William's Creek, N. W. of Pueblo ' 
Coil. II. Many-armed Mesozoic Crinoid, Pentacrinus subang-' 
ularis Jlliller, Mesozoic. from Lyme Regis, Engl:ind. 12. Un-j 
usually perfect specimen of Isotehis brachycephalus, founc 
near Dayton, Ohio. 13. Limestone Slab, showing stratigraphic 
unconformity (Middle Ordovician) from Elkins, Ky. \ 
Columnar Calcareous Alga, Proterozoic, from near Whitfj 
Sulphur Springs, Montana. 14. Specimen of Crinoidal Lime- 
stone, Williamson Co., Tenn. ; Section of ancient Conifer Tret, 
(Collixylon). changed to silica in fossilization. 15. *Cre 
taceous Sea Bottom, exhibiting a colony of the largest knowi 
species of Crinoid, Uiutacrinus sofialis (GrinneU), a species 
which owes its name to having been first discovered in th« 
Uinta Mountains, Utah. 16. Fossiliferous Sandstone, Tertian 
— Eocene, from Acquia Cliffs, Potomac River, Va. ; Track 
of marine animals on surface of Potsdam sindstone. 17, 
Fossil Shrimps (Peneus speeiosiis and Aegir tipularis, Jurassic^ 
from lithographic limestone. 

West Wall (N. to S.) : i. Rocks of New Hampshire 
column showing proportional thickness of stratified forma' 
tions ; 2. Fossil Sea Lily, Pentacrinus suhangularis Miliar 
Lower Jurassic, Wurtemburg; 3. Uinta Crinoid. slab 6 fl" 
square, showing over 100 specimens of Ujnfacrinus socialU 
GrinneU: 4.. Slab of shale, representing bottom life of Lowe'i] 
Carboniferous sen-floor (from Crawfordsville, Ind.). 



PALEONTOLOGY COLLECTION 285 

South Wall W. to E.) : Case i. Containing* Middle Cam- 
brian Fauna, found in dark silicious shale, from the Canadian 
Rockies, 3280 ft. above Field, British Columbia. Note espe- 
cially the large trilobite, Neolenus scrrains (Rominger) ; the 
Lace Crab, Marclla superba (JValcott) ; Ffcropods, or wing- 
footed shells. Hyolithes carinatus (Matthezv) ; and the Sidney 
Crab, Sidneyia incxpcctans (Walcott). 

Previous to the discovery of this splendid fauna, fossils showing 
the strircture of their soft, fleshy parts have been exceedingly rare; 
in these specimens the most delicate structures, showing all the internal 
anatomy, have been preserved. Among the more interesting specimens 
are the following: the Gephyrean Worm, Ottoia prohfica (Walcott) 
(specimens of fossil worms are rarely found and those here exhib- 
ited are among the most perfectly preserved fossil forms) ; the Holo- 
thurian, or fossil Sea Cucumber, Eldonia ludivigi {Walcott), showing 
the coiled alimentary canal; also Scenclla conica (Matthew), a small, 
conical Gastropod shell, allied to the modern limpet. 

Case 2. Fossiliferoius Rocks: Marble, Limestone, Calcareoi-is Tufa, 
Coquina, etc.; Case 3. Fossil Protozoa: Foraminifera; Radiolaria; Fossil 
Sponges or Porifera; Fossil Corals; Case 4. ^Fbssil Corals con-iinued: 
Chain coral, Honeycomb croal, Sunflower coral, Compound coral (Middle 
Devonian) cut and polished to show radial internal structure. Case 5. 
Slab showing nearly 79 specimens of crinoid locrinniis subcrassiis; 
jMiddle Cambrian Siliceous Shale, with specimens of Holothurian, Eldonia 
ludzvlgi; Slab with 60 ispecimens; of Glyptocrinus dyeri Meek; Grap- 
tolites: Black carbonaceous bodies, branched or unbranched to the 
Medusae and Corals; they are found in great abundance in Paleozoic 
rocks, and are of world-wide distribution; Fossil Medusae or Jelly Fish. 
Cases 6-8. Fossil Crinoids continued. Case 9. Fossil Sea-Urchins; note 
especially Melon-like Sea-Urchin, Melonites multiporus. Case 10. Fossil 
^Asteroidea or Starfish; Blastoidea, an extinct group of Echinoderms 
(Palaeozoic) ; Cystidea, extinct sac-like Echinoderms (Ordovician and 
Silurian); Case 11. Brachiopods and rock specimens of different ages 
composed largely of their remains; Fossil Ccplialopoa, the most highly 
organized of all mollusks. Note especially the Straight Cephalopods 
Middle Orovician) : Endoceras proteifornic Hall; also Orthoceras 
zhinense, embedded in limestone, cut and polished to show internal 
^tructure. In this form these slabs are known to the Chinese as Pagoda 
Stones, fro-m the popular belief that the figure is formed in the earth 
vherever the tower of a pagoda casts its shadow on the ground. 

Case 11-12. Ammonites, an extinct group of Cephalopoids, closely 
elated to the living Pearly Nautilus. Specimen of largest known 
\merican Ammonite, the Pachydiscsus, which must originally have 
neasured 4 ft. in diameter. 

Case 14. Pelecypoda: clams, oysters, scallops and mussels; Gas- 
ropoda: snails, periwinkles and cionch-shells. 

Casei 15. Giant swimming crab (Tertiary), from Gatun Formation, 
'anama Canal Zone (the ancestor of the present edible crab of the 
'acific Coast); Fossil barnacles; Case 16. Fossil Hexapoda or Insects: 
lie oldest known air-breathing land animals, and also the rarest of 
dssils are two groups of Paleozoic Insects, the Blattoidea or Cock- 
oaches, and the Plectoptera or May-flies; Note also fossil grasshopper, 
lagonfly and water-skipper, Jurassic from lithographic limestone, 
'.ich?tadt, Bavaria; also fossil Coleoptera, Isjptera (white ants) and 
cpidoptera, from Quatenary deposits, Zanzibar, Africa; Cases 16 

IE. side), 17 and 18: The I. H. Harris Collection of Cincinnati fossils: 
! ;rranged to show the animalsi and plants that lived in the Mississippian 
l; 



286 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Sea in the region of Cincinnati, O., towards the close of the Lower 
Silurian period. The entire collection was bequeathed to the Museum 
in 1897^ and contains upward of 17,000 specimens; Case 19. Slab of 
fossiliferous bluish limestone, Richmond Group, near Oxford, O.; 
composed almost entirely of Brachiopod shells; Case 20. Fassiliferous 
stratified rock with coral reef; rocks exposed by stream cutting, which 
outcrop along Chenoweth Creek, near Louisville Ky. 

North Aide: Fossil Plants, Petrified Woods, etc. The 
fossil plants are represented by a large variety, including the 
notable Lacoe Collection of Carboniferous forms, comprising 
over 100,000 specimens. The collection has recently been rear- 
ranged and fully labeled, and even the casual visitor who. is not 
a specialist must be impressed by the giant exhibits at the W. 
end of aisle and the brilliant colorings of the petrified woods 
from the so-called "Petrified Forests" of Arizona. The follow- 
ing features, however, should be especially noted : 

(W. to- E.) Base of trunk and roots of Lepidodcndron, a gigantic 
carboniferous tree, ancestor of present-day Ground Pine or Club-Mo-s 
(from Pennsyh-ania coal-mine) ; Sections of fossil tree-trunks in whicli 
the original organic matter has been wholly replaced by silica in tlie 
form of icjhalcedony, jasper and opal; sandstone cast and mold of Clul>- 
Moss trunk, the inner surface of the mold being covered by the large 
rhomboidal figures of leaf-cushions, characteristic of the Lepi'dodendron; 
Complete brain-like calcarious Algae, from Wellington limestone; Cycad, 
trunk with small leaf scars; Fronds of various species of extinct ferns 
from Pennsylvania coal beds; Clay with leaves of fossil fig and magnolia. 
Eocene period; Classified collection illustrating North American fossil 
plants: Petrified remains of a low form of coral life, pressed into true 
coralline reefs; Grottp of silicified fossil logs; Dark impressions of the 
Ulodendron, giant fossil trees which contributed much material in the 
formation of coal ; Fossil oaks, the original w-ooden material replacea ' 
by opal; Polished^ cross-sections of tree trunks changed toi opal, but still' 
showing the original woody structure; Fossil palm tree, preserved in 
fine-grained shaile, showing the apex of the trunk, with a crown ofi 
six leaves. 

Main Floor continued: Eastern Range: Mineralogy: 
East wall-cases (S. to N.): i. Specimens of rock' 
showing various forms of faulting and of faulting cleavage 
2. (on platform) : fine large specimens of folded Jasper}, 
hematite; 3. (platform): Specimens of potholes in Basalt/ 
4. Blocks of limestone showing glacial action; 5. a. (S. side) j 
Specimens illustrating glaciers and glacial phenomena; b. (Nlj| 
side): Specimens of volcanic dust; specimens of deep--^-": ■ 
deposits ; exhibits illustrating the decompositon of rocks 
the origin of sediments ; 6. Relief Map of the United Sta 
showing the theoretical restoration of the Ancient Ice Shoe; 
at the statge of the Glacial period, following the maim sil! 
epoch. 7. Coillection of Imitative Forms, assumed by inlj 
organtic matter so closely resembling organic matter as ti 
be misleadinig. 8. Fine specimen of Glacial Pothole, f'l 
Concretionary Granite, 2 specimens. 00. a. (S. side) ; Ex|, 



PALEONTOLOGY OOLLECTION 287 

hibits showing the prooesses of rock weathering and soil 
formation; b. (N. side) : Exhibit of vein formations in 
marble, dolomite, quartz, slate, etc. 11. (on platform) : Sand- 
stone concretions from near the mouth of Cannoin Ball River, 
North Dakota; 12 — \y. Collection illustrating- the process of 
concretionary structures ; Relief maps, photographs, trans- 
parencies and specimens illustrating the physical features of 
the Yellowstone National Park; 18. Stereogram of the Henry 
Mountains, Utah; 19. (on platform): Exhibit of Coiumnar 
Basalt from quarry near Asbach, Rhenish Prussia. 20. 
Map showing distribution of known meteoric falls in the 
United States. 21. Collection illustrating volcanoes and vol- 
canic phenomena. Note especially "Pele's Hair," from Kilauea 
crater, Hawaiian Islands, formed by the action of the wind 
in catching up the jets of boiling lava and stringing the mate- 
rial into long greenish brown fibres, in which form it cools too 
quickly to permit of crystallization. 22. (table case) : Con- 
tains specimens of North Carolina flexible sandstone; also 
exhibits illustrating the eruption, Jan. loth, 1914, of the long 
inactive volcano of Sakurajami, Japan; 22,. Siliceous and 
calcareous deposits from extinct hot springs in S. W. 
Wyoming; 24. a. (S. side) : Collection of Gypsum incrusta- 
tions, Selenite crystals and other cave formations, chiefly 
from the Mammoth Cave, Ky. ; stalagmite marble,\ travertine 
and calcareous tufa; b. (N. side) : Limestone caverns and 
associated phenomena ; stalactites and stalacmites ; exhibits 
illustrating cave life; the cave bat, blind cray fish, cave sala- 
mander and cave beetle; 25. Pictures and model of section of 
Marengo Cave, Indiana; 26-27. Stalactites continued; This case 
contains the most picturesque and popularly interesting part 
of this group. 

I Central Exhibits ('N, to S.) : These consist chiefly of the 
'^luseum's meteorite collection, containing altogether several 
lundred small specimens ; also, on W. side of the Range, casts 
of some of the largest known mieteorites. Case i. Portraits 
)f the principal geologists and paleontogists of former U. S. 
geological Surveys. 2. Collection of portraits of early Amer- 
ican Geologists and their works. 3. Meteoric iron. 4. Meteoric 
stony iron found in Christan Co., Ky. 5. Meteoric iron con- 
inued. 6. Meteorites : a. from Canyon Diablo, Ariz. ; b. from 
Tucson, Ariz, (known as the "Signet") ; c. from Casas 
jrandes, Chihuahua, Mex. 7. Case of meteorites arranged to 
ihow classification and other features. 8. Kugel Gabbro 
[Potatoe rock), from about 70 mi. S. E. of Christiania, 
fJorway. 10-13. Meteorites cont-imied. 



288 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

West AVall (S. to N.) : These cases contain a Systematic 
Collection of Rocks, classified according to the prevailing 
system also the following special exhibits: Relef map of 
Eureka District, Nevada ; Typical Rocks of the Gem Region : 
Collection illustrating the occurrence of Tourm'alin.e and other 
gems in the Pegmatites of southern California; Cast of 
Boculirito Meteorite; from State of Sinaloa, Mex. Cast of 
The Ahmighito meteorite ("The Tent"), measuring 6 ft. by 
7 ft. 6 in., by II ft. 2 in. The orginal brought by Peary 
from Melville Bay, Greenland, in 1896-7, is in The American 
Museum of Natural History, N. Y. Geological relief map of 
Washington and Vicnitv ; Geological relief maps of Leadville 
Col 

f. Exhibits of Ethnology 

**The American Indian Exhibits, constituting by far the 
most important part of the Museum's Ethnological collec- 
tions, are displayed in the North Wing (in the aisles sur- 
rounding the National Picture Gallery), and in the North- 
west range, the different tribes being arranged mainly as 
follows : Indians of Alaska, British Columbia, Greenland, 
etc., in the South Aisle; Indians of the Plains and Rockies, 
in the West aisle; Pueblo Indians and other tribes of the South- 
west, Mexico and Central South America, in the Northwest 
Range. 

To the visitor entering from the Rotunda, the most con- 
spicuous objects in the South gallery, are the collection of 
Totem Poles, and Inside House Posts made by the Haida 
Indians of the village of Tanu, Queen Charlotte Island. 

Totem Pole is the popular name for carved poles set! up by Indians 
of the Northwest Coast of North America. Among the Haida or Queen 
Charlotte Island Indians, where they attained their highest perfection, 
there were two varieties: one set up in front of the house midway 
between the eaves, and bearing the crests or emblems of the owner's clan 
and that of his wife's; secondly, the inside house posts, set up within j 
the house, which support the house beam. [ 

The pair of House Posts immediiately to R. and L. of entranc&f 
arq of especial interest. Each consists of a thick plank oi giant cedar 
wood (Thua plicata), carved and painted on the front with a decorative 
symbolic design representing an imaginary sea-monster called. "Tsemos,"j 
whiah is thought to move erratically like a drifting tree whose roots 
are laden with stones. Notice also a 38 ft. Totein pole at extreme 
S. E. cor., on which the animal carvings (beginning below) are: the| 
Killer-whale, Chief, Sea-monster, Chief's hat, Eagle and human figurei^ 
with two toads. The Killer-whale is the owneir's crest and the eaglej 
and toadsi are the crest of his wife; also a 42 ft. Totem pole at extreinef 
S. W. cor., the carved figures on which are: a Beaver, WTiale, Deep-sea(jj 
Grizzly Bear, Cormorant and Eagle. 



ETHNOLOGY EXHIBITS 289 

The visitor will find it convenient to proceed to the R. 
and begin with the few cases of Indian exhibits that, for 
lack of space, have been crowded into the S. end of the E. 
aisle (which is otherwise devoted to the Asiatic collections). 
The central exhibits both here and in all the galleries devoted 
to ethnology, consist largely of representative *Fan-ily Groups, 
admirably life-like, and scientifically accurate to the minutest 
detail. The wall exhibits are cases containing collections illus- 
trative of the life and culture of the different tribes, costumes, 
household utensils, weapons, pottery, basketry, textiles, etc. 
The numbers used in the following list are intended m.erely 
as a guide to the relative position of each exhibit: the cases 
themselves bear no numbers, but are abundantly supplied 
with descriptive placards. 

East Aisle, Central Exhibits: i. Smith Sound Eskimo, 
called the "Arctic Highlanders," the most northern people in 
the known world ; the group represents a family as it might 
appear moving across the ice-tields. (Designed by W. H. 
Holmes, and modeled by H. J. Ellicott) ; 2. Dwelling Group 
of the Western Eskimo, Western Alaska, consisting of dome- 
shaped houses made of earth, piled over a cobwork of timbers; 
3. Dwelling Group of Central Eskimos, consisting of a winter 
house and outbuildings, and another in course of construction; 
Model of dwelling of Kinugmut Eskimo of Alaska ; 4. Family 
Group of Western Eskimo, illustrating usual summer occupa- 
jtions and amusements. 

East and South Wall Cases (N. to S., beginning opposite 

4th Family Group) : Case i. Carvings in slate made by Haida 

Indians. The material is fine grained and easily worked. 

The figures represent the mythological characters and stories 

:hat are shown on Haida Totem Poles. Collection also includes 

slate pipes, dishes and plaques, stone mortars, pestles and 

shallow dishes for grinding paint; Case 2. Tribes of South 

\laska and British Columbia : masks, helmets and headdresses ; 

Taida Chief's crest with plume ; Bear's head dance mask ; Bird 

eremonial headdress (Tlinkit) ; Seal clubs; ancient Thunder- 

Mrd_ club; Slave killer (Haida) ; Case 3. Alaskan Indians 

onfinued. Carving, inlaying and metal work. Rattles and 

Vooden pipes ; carved charms, ear pendants and medicine sticks 

if shell, horn and bone; stone Totemic charms; Case 4. (N. 

Vail) War costumes and weapons of the Aleuts, Tlinkit, 

-laida and Chilkat ; plate, slat, rod and skin armour ; helmets, 

reaves, clubs, bows quivers, etc. ; Case 5. Basketry of 'N. W. 

oast Indians : Decorated baskets for various ornamental and 

seful purposes ; Haida ceremonial hat, with mythological 

! evices representing Totemic animals. 



290 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

West Wall Cases (N, to S., beginning opposite 4th Central 
Case) : i. Tribes of the Nol^th Pacific Coast : costumes, tex- 
tiles and wood carving; 2. Indian decorative art. collection 
of decorated wooden masks, painted rug, carved wooden 
figures; 3. Chests of cedar wood, carved and painted with 
Totemic designs. 

The visitor now passes again through entrance vestibule, 
continuing inspection of cases on S. Wall: i. (E. of door- 
way) : Alaskan Basketry continued : Baby shoes, mats, baskets 
and bags, made from Carcx which flourishes abundantly in S. 
Alaska; 2. (W. of doorway): Costumed figures of Eskimo 
men and women from Kotzebue Sound, Point Barrow and 
Labrador. 

West Aisle: Central Exhibits (S. to N.) : Family Groups : 
I. Chilkat household, consisting of wood worker, carving a 
ceremonial mask ; woman weaving a Totemic blanket ; girl 
serving man in ceremonial costume, etc. Designed by W. H. 
Holmes; 2. Collection of carved wooden vessels ; 3. Textile 
work of Tribes of Columbia River Region (Salish) ; male 
figure wearing woven blanket ; 4. Table Case showing develop- 
ment of slashing weapons with short hilts : weapons for cut- 
ting and thrusting ; also hand weapons for stabbing and pierc- 
ing; 5. Family Group of Loucheux. type of the Yukon- 
Mackenzie Province ; 6. Iroquois Village Group, Northern 
New York, representing a stockaded village of "the Iroquois 
Confederacy during- the Aboriginal Period. Modeled by /. B. 
Millner; 7. Dwelling Group of Seminole Indians, Florida, Im 
center is house where cooking is done ; 8. Navaho Indians 

9. Dwelling Group of the Papago Indians, Sonora, Mex. ; 

10. Dwelling Group of Sioux Indians ; 11. Dwelling Group 
of the Chippewa Indians, Lake Superior Region; Models of 
houses of birch bark, mats and rushes; 12, Family Group:' 
Navaho Indian blanket makers ; one woman spinning and the 
other weaving; 13. Table Case: Development of the spindlej 
and shuttle; 14. Table Case: Development of the lamp, from; 
the crudest stone lamp to the electric bulb ; 15. Family Group ; 
Zuni women (New Mex.) making pottery; 16. Table 

-Case: Showing development of the adze and the hammer | 
17. Table Case: Showing development of the Fish-hook anc 
Harpoon Barb; 18. Family Group of the Sioux Indians, typ«!; 
of the Aborigines of the Great Plains region ; 19. Tabl'j 
Case: Development of the drill, the scraper, the jack-knif; 
and the saw ; 20. *HistOTic Group ; Captain John Smith tradiiii'i 
with the Powhatan Indians. Designed by IV. H. Holmes; 211 
Table Case: Showing development of knife, fork, spoon, c\ii\ 
and tobacco pipe ; 22. Family Group of Cocopa Indians of fai^ 



ETHNOLOGY EXHIBITS 291 

Southwest, intended as t3'pe of this region: Group includes 
woman milHng corn in wooden mortar, young man teaching 
boy the use of how and arrow, returning hunter asking for 
water, and w-oman winnowing grass-seed. 

West Wall Cases (N. to S.): i. Burial frame of a Cheyenne 
child; 2. Model of Sioux woman and child; 3. Sioux Indian warrior, 
wearing war shirt with bead work, cuH fringe and scalp trophies, plume 
of eagle feather and necklace of bear's claws. The face is that of 
Kicking Bear, a Sioux Medicine Man, who was prominent with Sitting 
Bull in the Ghost Dance craze of 1890. The costume was secured from 
hinii and a ca?t taken of his face when he visited; Washington in 1902. 
4. Georg^ Catlin Collection: Relics of Catlin's Explorations among the 
Indians, . 1830-71 ; 5. Examples of work in quills and Moose-hair, on 
moccasins, shirts, leggins, belts, pouches, fringes, necklaces, etc.; 
6. Indians of the Northern Plains continued, chiefly Sioux: Woman's 
painted robe, beaded cradle, svui-dance robe (Blackfeet); Sitting Bull's 
flintlock; Chief Gall's quiver; Beaded shirt, feather headdre.-s; scalp 
of Nez Perce; 7. Charms, trophies and examples of objects connected 
with native religion, which were used principally by western tribes; 
8. Osage Indians, Okla.; Sacred bundles used in ceremonies; 9-10. Plains 
and Rocky Mountains Tribes; Beaded tobaqco poiuches; pipes, flutes, 
whistles and drums; Ston-head war clubs; bone war clubs with spikes; 
ceremonial shields and shield-covers, quivers, bows, arrows and toma- 
hawks: II. James Mooney Collection: Earthenware vessels of Cherokee 
(N. C.) Indians; Seneca (N. Y.) Indians: Flutes, bark-rattles, etc.; 
Iroquois (N. Y.) Indians; silver brooch, beadwork pouches, etc.; 

12. Tribes of the Northern Woodlands; Collection ofl Rev. Peter Jones, 
a half-blood Ojibwa Indian, who becayme a Christian missionary. This 
collection includes a beladed bandolier and headdress worn by Indian 
delegate to the Co^trt_of George IV and Queen Victtoria; an ancient 
knob-club, scalping knife, medicine-bone, wampum, etc. In same case 
are birch bark vessels and other implements of the Ojibwa sugar industry. 

13. Tools of the Eskimo; 14. Eskimo work-boxes, tool-iboxes, boxes 
for lance-heads, snuff, trinkets, etc.; 15. Lamps of the Eskimo; from 
Labrador and Greenland on E. to Alaska and Aleutian Islands; 

16. Dwelling Groups of Digger Indians (type of /Calif ornian Province); 

17. Alaskan Collection lent by Mrs. IV. H. Emory; 18. Western Eskimo. 
Wooden dishes, pails, dippers, ladles and spoons, cut from solid wood; 
19. (S. Wall) Eskimo continued: Harpoons and bird tridents, fish 
spears, throwing sticks and smew-backed bows. 

! ^ ^ East Wall Cases (S. to N. This is a continuous case, 
'divided only by the structural columns along the E. wall. 
The numbers refer to alcoves between columns) : 

I. _ Tribes of Alaska: Costumes of Tinkit and Haida Tribes; 
j2. Eskimo of S. E. Alaska: Garments, including, a waterproof dress, 
weapons, paddle, icje-skimmers, lamps, boxes, snow-shoes, and a com- 
plete skin canoe or kayak: also' model of house showing method of 
construction; 3. Greenland Eskimo; Costumes of ornamented sealskin, 
robes of eiderdown, full-size dog-sled, spears and small models of 
jiative boats; also exhibit of the Labrador Indians, including' fur cos- 
tume, painted-skin dress, snow-shoes, toboggan sleds and model of 
louse; 4. Tribes of Northern Canada. Tanned-skin clothing, dishes, 
lousehold utensils, bows, nets and snow-shoes; Indians of the Eastern 
aid Southern States; Basket's, household utensils, masks; also figure of 
^>eminold man wearing a Chief's cio&tume of today; 5. Chipewa Indians: 
Floor-mats, beaded tobacco bags, household and agricultural implements; 
j). Sioux Indians: beaded clothing, robes, dried foods, baskets, sticks 



292 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

and stones used in chiiiikcy game, stick and balls used in, shinny game, 
woman's elk-tooth dresis, papoose cradle, stone mallets, war bonnets, 
bo^'S and spears; 7. Kiowa Indians. Costumes, medicine staffs, sctdp- 
lock dress ornament, saddles, shields, lances, beaded cradles and reed 
beds; 8. Arapalio and Cheyenne Indians: Robes, rawhide cases, lance?^ 
shields, all ornamented with paint, feathers, beads and elk teeth; also 
buifalo' skulls and horns, war bonnets and war clubs; 9. Tribes of the 
Rocky Mountains; Utes and other Shoshones: Costumes of an early 
day, collected by Major J. W. Powell and others. 

The visitor now turns W. (opposite elevators) into — 

Northwest Range, North Section. Indians of the South- 
western United States, Central and South America : 

Central Exhibition Cases (K. to W.), These exhibits 
consist mainly of Family Groups alternating with Tabic 
Cases showing historical development o^f implements, 
weapons and arts and crafts, i. (E. Wall Case) Basketry 
of the Fraser-Columbia region; 2. Table Case; Development 
of the Torch and Candle; 3. Familjir group of Hupa Indians 
from northern California ; 4. Table Case : Development of 
Fire Making and Illumination from primitive method of fric- 
tion to the electric light ; 5. Faimiily group of eight Pueblo 
Indians, (the Zuni of New Mexico : Man 'bringing home his 
crap of vegetables and fruit ; woman weaving a belt on her 
hand loom; young girl carrying a jar oi water on her head; 
man drilling Turquoise for beads, etc. ; 6. Table Case. De- 
velopment of European Ax and Aboriginal American Ax ; 7. 
Faimily group of Hopi Indians from northeastern Arizona ; 
8. Taible Case: History of Weaving, including the spindle, 
shuttle and loom ; 9. *The Snake Dance : an episode in a Hopi 
Dance for Rain, designed by IV. H. Holmes, and modeled by 
U. S. J. Dunbar. 10. Table Case: Development of Tools and 

These Indians celebrate in the month of August, at intervals of j 
in black, "brown, red and yellow. Mohave, Cocopa and Yuma Tribes; j 
pose being to beseech the gods for rain for their crops. The culmi- : 
nation is an open air ceremony in which live snakes are carried, and ; 
the most striking episode in this dance is presented in this group, which i 
shows a trio of Snake priests, respectively the "Carrier " tie "Sus- , 
tainer" and the "Collector," a line of priests of the Antelope Society , 
who act as chorus, and a maid and matron whose office it is, along j 
with others, to scatter sacred meal on the participants as a sacrifice io ;\ 
the gods. 

Appliances used in Metal Working; 11. The Arrow Makers: 
Group illustrating the manufacture of stone implements by 
the American aborigines ; modeled by U. S. J. Dunbar ; 12. Tablei! 
Case: Reduction in Metal Working; also Methods of Manu- 
facture, including hammering, casting, overlaying, etc.; I3- 
Kiowa Group: Indian children at play, showing child 
life of Plains Indians as illustrated by the wheel and darti. 
game, whip and tops, and mimic warfare; 14. Table Case:^ 



ETHNOLOGY EXHIBITS 293 

Toggle harpoons, sinkers, fish-hooks and lines ; 15. Family 
group of Tehuelche Indians (Patagonian region) breaking 
camp; 17. Family group of four Maya-Quiche Indians (type 
of the Central Americani region) ; group designed by IV. H. 
Holmes, modeled by U. S. J. Dunbar; woman grinding corn 
on a stone; man carrying corn in a net-bag over his shoulder, 
etc.; 18. Feather work, basketry and bead work of Indians 
of British Guiana. 19, (to R.) Model of Mission Church, 
Zuni Pueblo, New Mexico; Estufa or "Kiva" (Ceremonial 
room), Jamez Pueblo, New Mexico; 20. Model of the Hopi 
Pueblo, N. E., Arizona. The mesa in which it is situated 
is about 500 ft. above the level of the plain, and totally des- 
titute of vegetation. Modeled by Victor and Cosmos Min- 
deleff; 21. (N. to S.) a. Dwelling Group of the 
Tehuelche Indians, t^-pe of the Patagonian Region, b. Dwell- 
ing Group of the (joajiros Indians, type of the Orinoco 
Region. 22. Ancient Sun-Shrine, crescentic mass of weather- 
worn sandstone. From sandy mesa in Arizona ; Cases 23-25 
are the southernmost row in the N. W. Pavilion. From E. 
to W. they contain : 23. Industries of Pima Indians, Ariz. : 
Loom with cloth in process, doll in cradle, woven belt, hair 
ornaments and shields; Pima, Papago- and Maricopa Tribes: 
Bows and arrows, carrying baskets and saddles. 24. Tribes 
of South America: Textiles, robes, skirts, girdles, hammocks 
and bags, made fro^m skin, bark, cotton and other vegetable 
fibre. 25. Tribes of Peru, Central Brazil, Guiana and Argen- 
tina: Bows and arrows. 

The visitor may now return to E, end and inspect the 
exhibits on the northern side. 

Wall Cases, North Wall (E. to W.) : r. Mohave Indian Chief, 
Yuman stock, from hot desert region of Southwest Arizona. Modeled 
by Theodore Mills; 2. Hupa Indians of the Valley of Trinity River, 
Cal.: Baskets, carved elkhorn spoons, stone knives, pestles, baking 
dishes, etc.; 3. Costumes, ornaments, ceremonial head-d'resses, etc., of 
the Hupa, lamath, McCloud, Porno and Tulare Indians of California; 
14. Tribes of New Mexico and Arizona. In N. E. Arizona are the 
'Hopi Indians, the wesiternmoist of the Pueblo Indians. They pre- 
serve more fully than other Pueblo tribes the ancient arts and customs. 
This case contains pottery, matting, spindles, bows and arrows, stone 
implements, etc.; 5. Seri Indian Hunter, modeled by U. S. J. Dunbar; 
lalso Birdskin Blanket of Seri Indians, made from'i the California Brown 
iPelican, Pelkamis CaJifornicus; and a child's garment of Cormorant 
skins, Phalacrocorax pencillatns. 

I The Seri Indians occupy Tiburon Island, the Gulf of California. 
[They wear skirts of pelican skins, and are noted for their large stature, 
ijslender limbs, and great breadth and depth of chest. 

j 6. New Mexico and Arizona continued: Zuni Pueblo Indians: Cere- 
monial Dolls, madei by a Zuni in imitation of the mein who personified 
the gods in sacred ceremonies; they are used by the mothers in teaching 
their children the symbolism of the gods; (same cases) Masks of the 



294 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Zuni Kok-ko Society, worn by members of the Sacred Dance Fraternity 
when personating the ancestral god'.-; 7. Ceremonial objects of the 
Znnis: Feather wands, sword-swallower's wands, sacred bundles, rattles, 
and sacred games used in various ceremonies; 8. New ilexico and 
Arizona continued: Zuni Pueblo Indians, living in Western New ^^lexico 
on one of the head streams of the Little Colorado River: Case contains 
pottery, basketry, gourd vessels, spindles, etc.; 9. *Relics from Pueblo 
Indian Missions of New Mexico, antedating those of California: Holy 
Water Font, carved and painted wooden figures, painting,-; on skins 
and on wood, crosses and sconces; also paintings on dressed bualo skins. 
These paintings are a combination of Christian and pagan art, due to 
the crude ideas pi the^ Indians wlio designed them. Done by Indian 
converts, under direction of the jNIission Fathers; 10. Tribes of Southern 
Arizona, the| Pima, Papaga and Maricopa Indians, Lower Gila and Salt 
Rivers (these tribes have now coalesced and are now practically uniform 
in culture): Pottery, basketry, brushes, cJubs, drums, flutes, etc.; 

11. Woman of Chiapas, Southern Mexico, modeled by U. S. J. Dunbar; 

12. Tribes of California, Kawia and Dieguenos Indians, inhabiting the 
mission area of S. Cal.: Specimens of pottery, basketry, gourd vessels, 
etc.; 13. Mexican tribes: Yaki, Tarahumare, Cora, and other tribes: 
woA'en pouches, etc,.; 14. Mexican Tribes continued: Lacquered bowls, 
machetes, water jars and other article's illustrative of arts derived from 
aboriginal sources, but which cannot now be traced to any particular 
tribe; 15. West Indian Islands (Haiti, Porto Rico, San Domingo and 
Cuba): Baskets, gourds:, guitars, etc.; also Indian tribes of Central 
America (Panama, Casta Rica and Guatemala): Garments of Kekchi 
women; mask and dance costume of Talamanca Indians; 16. Talamanca 
and Guatuso Indians of Costa Rica Inland Forests, and now on the 
verge of extinction: Bows, arrows, pottery, necklace^ of jaguar teeth. 
Note the crudity of the art; 17. Upper Amazon River: a. Peru, various 
tribes •.( Textiles, ornaments, musical instruments; also' Ancient Peruvian 
Mummy; b. Bolivia: various tribes: Blankets and slings of vicuna wool; 
niodels of reed boats, c. Brazil, various robes; Bark cloth, wood carv- 
ing; 18. Tribes of British Guiana (Carib and Arawak) : Fine basketry 
and well-developed pottery; 19. a. Argentine, various tribes: Textiles, 
ornaments, pies and ear-plugs; b. Paraguay: Feather cinctures, plvmies, 
shell and bear ornaments, knit hammocks and bags. 

West Wall (Same Series continued): 20. Tribes of the Amazon, the 
Bororo, and other groups: Specimens brought home in 1852 by Herndon 
and Gibbon, including bows, clubs, spears and arrows; also two' dried 
headb of Xivaro Indians (skull removed and head shrivelled to one- 
third natural size); 21. Patagonian tribe'?. Painted robes of horehide, 
skins and robes lof Guanaco, boots, spurs, bolas, etc.: 22. Paraguay: 
Gran Chaco Indians (tribes similar in culture to the Plains Indians of 
North America) : Arrows, bows, clubs, feather headdresses, costumes, 
etc.; 23. Xivaro Chief, modeled by Theodore A. Mills. Note especially 
the resplendent costume ornamented with the vivid plumage of South 
American birds; 24. Tribes of Fuegia, the Alikulof and other groups: 
Bows, spears, fish-nets of sinew- harpoon-heads, etc. i 

South Wall. A colonnade here forms an aisle on the 
S. side, which is divided by transverse cases into a series 
of alcoves, partly screened from view by the outer row of 
cases facing the central Family Groups. 

(E. to W.) Alcove i: Basketry of Middle and South America; the 
checker and twilled _ work from British Guiana and ancient Peru; ; 
basketry of California tribes, including the Maidu, Panamint, Washc 
Tulare and Mission Indians; Tahltan tribe, British Columbia; necklaces, 
bracelets, belts, beaded bags and fans; leather- working tools, paints 

i! 



ETHNOLOGY EXHIBITS 295 

and dyes; Apache Man and Squaw; twined and coiled basketry of Porno 
Indians. Tribes of Puget Sound Region: mats, nobes, skirts, carrying 
bands, baskets, clubs, tools and digging sticks. 

Alcove 2:1 Ella F. Hubby Collection of California Indian Baskets, 
received in 192 1, and including specimens by the Luiseiios, Channel, 
Mission, Coahuilla, Piute, Muna, Maidu, Mono and others. Pacfific 
Coast Tribes: Bows, arrows and quivers from various tribesi of Oregon 
and California. Costume and adornment of California Tribes. Tribes 
of Eastern States: Basketry of the Iroquois, Cherokee, Chocktaw and 
Cheetimacha Indians. 

Alcove 3: Tribes oif the Pueblo Region: (Arizona and New Mex- 
ico) : Every-day tools and utensils of the Hopi and Zuni. Leather 
shields decorated in Pueblo symbolic art; war hats, spears, bows and 
arrows of Zuni and Upper Rio Grande Pueblos; boomerang-like clubs 
of the Uopi; bows for war, hunting and cerem;ony. Basketry of the 
Apache, Pima, Papago, Seri. Pueblo music and games; flutes and 
rattles; rums made from hollow logs; tops, shuttlecock, and cup-and- 
ball-and-sticks. Dwelling! Group of Pawnee Indian. 

Alcove 4: Pueblo Tribes continued. Costumes of cotton and wool, 
moccasins, belts and blankets. Navaho-, New Mexico^ and Arizona 
weaving; Blankets, belts and looms. Basketry of various Pacific Coast 
tribes. Ceremoniai dolls of the Hopi Indians, carved from the root of 
the co'tonwood tree. Hopi and Zmii ceremonial headdresses of carved 
and painted wood; masks of leather, cloth and basketry; ceremonial 
shields, etc. Metal work of the Navaho Indians. 

Alcove 5: Zuni decorated pottery: The ware is made by coiling 
ropes of clay and pressing them together; the surface is covered with a 
wash of white clay, and designs in iron ore colors ar^ painted on, and 
the ware fired in a primitive kiln. All the designs are symbolic. Hopi 
weaving and embroidery: Ceremonial sash; man's sacred sash; man's 
sacred kilt; ceremonial blanket; Bride's blanket (pure white); looms 
for weaving belts, sashes and blankets; spindle with yarn, weft combs, 
weaving sticks, etc. Hopi pottery: The middle row shows Nampeo's 
revival of ancient forms and designs; examples of ancient Hopi vases 

i from ruined Pueblos. Dwelling Group of Jarnamadi Indians (West 
Brazil). Dwelling Group of Navaho. 

Alcove 6: Acoma and Sia Pueblos. N. M.: Acoma decorated pottery 

' in black, brcnvn, red and yellow. Mohave, Cocopa and Yuma Tribes; 

1 Yuma ceremonial headdresises; willow work, war club, cradle frame, 

I pottery bowls,, basketry, etc. Model of Altar of Little Fire Fraternity, 
Zuni Indians, New Mexico: Ancient Shrine of Awatobi, Moki Reservation 
discovered by Don Pedro de Tabor in 1340. In 1700 warriors from other 
Hopi pueblos, believing that the Awatobis had become sorcerers on 

i account of their cordial reception of the padres of the Franciscan 
Mission, pillaged this pueblo and massacred the inhabitants. This shrine 

, was found in the middle of the river where the warriors were congre- 
gated on the fatal night. The Apache, Arizona: Weapons of war, 
costumes, leather work and basketry. Collections of offerings at various 
Indian Shrines. Decorated pottery from Rio Grande Pueblo. Dwelling 
Group of the Carib Indians, British Guiana. 

( Alcove 7: Rio Grand Pueblo pottery: A black, burnished type, 

,made chiefly at Santa Clara Pueblo. Navaho Blankets: also saddle blan- 
kets, dress, pueblo sash, and models of looms., Pueblo of Taos, N. M. 
(one of the Rio Grande group of Pueblos), modeled by W. H. Jackson. 
Collection from Mexico (made by Harry S. Bryan): Crucifixes, bead 

.work, embroidery, etc. Model of a oki Altar. 

Alcove 8: Tribes of Panama: Costumes, basketry, tools, toys, masks, 
etc. Tribes of Mexico: Objects used in manufacture of Pulque. Mescal 
and Palm-wine by Mexican Indians; also specimens of plants from 
which these drinks are made; specimens of cord making and weaving. 



296 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Model of the Pueblo of Oraibi ("Place on the Rock"), the largest 
of the Hopi Pueblos, 99 miles N. E. of Flagstaff, Arizona. Modeled 
by Victor and Cosmos Mindeleff. Life forms in pottery (of Pueblo 
Region), figurines of birds, including owls, ducks, etc. On S. wall, and 
continuing VV. to end of wall, is a portion of the W. E. Safford Collec- 
tion of Indian portraits, mainly from Peruvian Tribes: Cashivo Girl, 
Napo Indian, Fuegian Man, etc. 

North Wing: East Aisle. Ethnology, continued: Europe 
Asia and Africa. 

Central Cases (S. to N.), beginning opposite the second 
window N. of Eskimo Group (p. 291) : i. Alodel of the Wat 
Chang or "Great Monastery Pagoda," the finest edifice of 
Bangkok, Siam, gift of Marquis Visuddha, Siamese Minister to 
England; 2. Parsee ceremonial objects, including fire urn, used 
to hold sacred fire, religious costume, suit of Parsee school 
girl; also model of Parsee Tower of Silence or Dakhma; 
3. Chinese porcelains and furniture collected on the Perry Ex- 
pedition of 1853. 4. Table case containing Shinto charms ; 
5. The Tninor arts of India, metal work, wood work, lacquer, 
etc.: Examples of furniture, hangings, jewelry, domestic 
utensils and figurines. 6. The George Keenan (Collection (loaned) 
of Central Asian and other Weapons, consisting of scimitars, 
broad-swords, daggers, pistols, guns, etc., of gold, silver, steel 
and ivory, also duelling pistols, guns and swords of artistic 
and historic interest, including African weapons secured 
during the Stanley Expedition. 7. and 8. Cases containing 
lacquer boxes, bottles and other objects of Chinese art; 9. Col- 
lection of equipments of war of the Japanese Feudal period. 
Collected by Theodore Roosevelt, Albert Beveredge, Horace 
Capron and others. It includes specimens of spears, saddles, 
helmets, stirrups and two life-size figures in armor; 10. Pujah 
set, or ceremonial vessels used in Hindu family worship; 11. 
Dwelling Group of the Aino, the aboriginal inhabitants of 
Yezo, Japan; 12. Objects of Buddhist religious art, including 
bronze seated statues of Buddha, etc. Case containing exam- 
ples of Oiinese art in porcelain, ivory, jade, pewter, etc.; I3- I 
Social life and arts of the Siamese Empire, including objects ' 
conneced with the Palace of the King and Royal Family; also 
weapons and theatrical masks ,and models of Siamese boats; ; 
14. Group of six Japanese warriors representing a Japanese \ 
General receiving tidings of a disaster from an escaped prisoner. \ 
The armor, spears, etc., are the kind used 400 years ago. Made I 
and costumed in Japan; 15, Ancient costume of Japan; twOij; 
life-sized figures, man and woman, showing the beautiful ': 
fabrics of ancien ttmes ; 16, Japanese lady and maid-servant j! 
costumed in style formery in vogue; 17. Objects of Hebrew! 



ETHNOLOGY EXHIBITS 297 

religious worship : prayer shawls ; old English Sabbath lamp 
made for ten wicks, with oil dipper beneath. 

East Aisle, continued. West Wall Cases (N. to S.): i. European 
Folk Art: Costumes, jewelry, pottery, etc., from Rumania, Bulgaria, 
Greece, Servia, Spain, Sweden, Finland and Iceland; 2. Ghadames girl 
(Hamitic Family), life-size figure of 12-year old girl, Bertjer race; 3. 
Peoples of North Africa: Moorish Art. Specimens of weaving, 
embroidery and metal work employed in rugs, hangings, saddles and 
costumes. The saddles were presented by Theodore Rqosevelt and 
Talcott Williams; 4. Siam. Articles presented by the King of Siam in 
1876, including Sarongs or men's waist dress, baskets, matting, drums, 
lacquer and brass work; 5. Peoples of the Chinese Empire: Articles 
illustrating the social life "of Tibetans and Mongols; also/ life-size figures 
of Mongol and Tibetan men, modeled by Theodore A. Mills; 6. 
Chinese Empire, continued : Chinese Imperial robes^ made at the royal 
looms at Mukden and . woven by members of the Imperial family; 7. 
Peoples of the Japanese Empire: The Koreans. Dress- worn by men, 
women and children, hats, belts, screens, cabinets, cooking utensils of 
soapstone; also life-size figure representing Korean gentleman in street 
costume. 8-9. Japanese Empire, continued. Robes of silk worn at 
Court ceremonies; Buddhist shrine; lacquer boxes, buckets, candlesticks 
and other domestic utensils; two life-size figures in native costumes; 
10. The Ainos of Yeso: Specimens of their chief industries, weaving 
and wood-carving. The remaining exhibits S. of this point have already 
been described under "Indians of the North Pacific Coast'' (p. 290). 
East Wall Cases (S. to N.) : beginning beyond second window, next 
to Eskimo exhibit (p. 291). The collections in these cases illustrate 
mainly the principal Religions of Asia and Europe: i. Buddhism : 
Collection of images of Buddha and various articles connected with 
Buddhist ceremonials. 2. Statue of Teak wood, lacquered (6 ft. 5 in. in 
height); 3. S. S. Hoivland Collection of Buddhist Art. Buddha Sitting 
in Meditation (bronze) ; Buddha passing into Nirvana (Alabaster gilded 
and encrusted with precious stones) ; Chinese Gods of War and ot 
Peace (gilded wood) ; Buddhist Shrine, representing Buddha seated on 
a lotus and surrounded by 14 other figures representing gods, saints and 
temporal guards; 4. Shintaism, the national and ofificial religion ot 
Japan; Shinto Shrines of various kinds; Mikoshii or portable Shrine; 
household shrines; Shrine of Inari or Fox Goddess; temple masks, straw 
chaplets, etc.: Brahmanism : Images of Brahma, Vishnu, Siva. Lakshmi, 
Devi, etc.; the ten Incarnations of Vishnu; 5. Mohammedanism: Aralolc 
ma»nu9cript of the Koran in black, red and gold on vellunt; prayer rug, 
wooden model of a mosque; mosque tablets from Constantinople. 6. 
Costume of Dancing Dervish and of Persian Priest. 7. Tuscany: 
Costume of the Misericordia, a charitable secret order in Florence. 
8. The Eastern or Greek Church: Bcclesliastical vestment of Ru=sian 
I priest; Pastoral staff of Greek Catholic Bishop; Russian Icons; Armenian 
I natriarch's staff, from Constantinople. 9. Costumes of Greek Catholic 
I '^Tonk and Armenian priest; alsO' habits of Dominican,, Benedictine and 
Cc.puchin monks. 10. The Roman Catholic Church; priests' vestments; 
I Catholic Altar from Roman Churchj at Hildesheim; Chalice, Paten, etc. 
I 11-15. Judaism: Five-armed candlestick: Hanukah lamp used at Feast 
of the Dedication; Veil of the Holv Ark; Micrah or panel of embroidered 
j silk with figures of Abraham and Isaac. 

North East Range: Ethnology, continued: 
Central Cases (W. to E.) : i. (W.Wall Case) Tribes 
I of the Philippines; Head-gear from various localities, made 
h from straw, tortoise shell, fur and embroidery; 2. Family 



ETHNOLOGY EXHIBITS 299 

Group of the 'Samoan Islands. - Six figures represent :_ 
bark cloth with crude stenciling, etc.; 3. Family Group of 
Dyaks Borneo', on porch of communal house ; 4. Family Group 
of Filipinos. The group represents the several processes con- 
nected with the making of coth, the ginning of cotton, spin- 
ning with primitive wheel, and the weaving of the cloth ; 5. 
Philippine Islands: Moro mental work, betel boxes, lime cups, 
trays, bowls and other appliances connected with the use of 
the narcotc betel ; 6. Family Group of the Bontac Igorets 
(Phillipine Islands), five figures all engaged in domestic occu- 
pations; 7. Family Group of the Negritos (Philippine Islands), 
showing their primitive method of making fire, pounding rice 
and cooking; 8. British East Africa; The Chagga: vessels of 
wood, iron implements, beaded leather aprons, oirnaments of 
brass, horn arrd ivo^ry ; 9. Tribes of British and Po'rtuguese 
South African; Zulu and Kaffirs: wooden drums, pottery, 
pipes, battle axes, ornaments; 10. Congo Free State; the 
Kassai and other tribes basketry, knives, paddles, pipes, etc. ; 
II. Congo Free State, continued: drums, masks, figurnes, 
carved ivory, ceremona knives and axes ; 12. Zulu-Kaffir 
Group, showing section of house : woman cooking mush, 
another ladling out beer, another carrying water, and man 
playng the marimba. 

South Wall: As in the case of the Northwest Range, 
the S. side has an aisle divided from the main hall by a 
row of columns, and the cases containing exhibits are 
arranged in groups forming a series of alcoves. 

Alcove i: Tribes of the Pacific: War spears, daggers, shark- 
teeth swords, armour of knotted cocoanut fibre; Tribes of British India: 
Nicobar Islanders: baskets, cocoanut vessels, wooden carvings, bowls, 
dishes, etc.; Tribes ,of Africa: The Sudanese; e^camples of the finest 
leather work found among uncivilized peoples — pouches, knife cases, etc.; 
The Abyssinians: amulets, bracelets, baskets, shields, weapons, etc.; 
Andaman Islanders : spears, bows and arrows, necklaces, bracelets, nets, 
baskets and belts; Tribes of Papua: War spears, showing extraordinary 
ingenuity in manufacture; Model of Papuan man, by Theodore Mills; 
Model of Bulu man, by Henry J. EUicott. Alcove 2: Tribes of the 
Pacific, continued : War clubs of Samoa, Tonga and Fiji, made chiefly 
of Polynesian ironwood; Tribes of Liberia, W. Africa: The Mandingoes; 
examples of the excellent textile work. Model of Wolof man (W. 
Sundan); Social and domestic arts of the Congo Tribes; The Pacific 
Islanders: The Tapa Makers Art; tapa board andi log, grooved mallet 
and marking pens; also specimens of tapa cloth; Arts of New Guinea 
Tribes, including carved wooden utensils and ornaments, baskets with the 
intricate "mad weave," canoe prow ornaments, etc.; Model of Wachaga 
man (German E. Africa), Alcove 3. Tribes of Polynesia and Melanesia: 
Costumes, tools and utensils; fans and personal ornaments, mostly from 
Fiji Islands; Costumes, Jewelry and decorative art, chiefly from New 
Guinea; also wood carving from the Solomon Islands; The Wood Carvers' 



300 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Art, including ceremonial adzes, clubs, paddles and stilts decorated in 
the style of tapa cloth. Social life of the Hawaiians; Note especially 
paraphernalia of the Hula dance; Stone money of Yap. Alcove 4. 
The Engano Islands: Girdles and bead skirts, baskets and hats; The 
W. L. Abbott Collection from Southern Malaysia: Household Gods, 
shrine images and other religious objects; Samoan plaited mat robes; 
textiles of New Zealanders; Tribes of the Eastern Pacific: War and 
ceremonial clubs; Social and domestic arts of the Nias Islanders; Mis- 
cellaneous collection of utensilsi and ornaments from Solomon, Marshall 
and Caroline Islands. Alcove 5. The Dyaks of Borneo: Costumes, 
kilts, sarongs and girdles; household utensils, wedding mat; Dyak 
musical instruments: Dr. IV. L. Abbott Collection: Hawaiian feather 
work: Feather cape made of rare bird feathers (vivid reds and yellows) 
woven with hemp background; Lais, or feather hair ornament; also 
ceremonial feather staff: Arts of the Easter Islands. Headdresses of 
feathers, staffs paddles and stone implements; Dyak spears, blowguns 
and shields; Dyak basketry; Native Arts and Industries of Southeast 
Africa; sandals, war horns, swords, carved ivory, etc. Alcove 6. 
Tribes of the Philippines: Offensive and defensive weapons of 
Mindanao; General F. D. Grant: Collection from Samar Island 
(Philippines) : Cutting weapons of various types, arrows for war and 
hunting palmwood bows, scourges for punishing prisoners; Tribes of 
East Indies: Weapons of the Nias, Engano, Pagi and Simalur Islands; 
note especially Shelter shields from Engano Islands; Philippine textiles 
from various localities: Igorot blankets; Moro print; Palm spathe texture; 
Buri palm cloth; also Arts of the Bagobo Tribe of Southern Mindanao: 
Beaded hemp jacket, woman's beaded belt; bolo with beaded sheath; 
spears and ornaments; Basketry of Luzon, ^Mindanao, and other Phil- 
ippine Islands; Dwelling Group, showing Zulu village. Alcove 7. 
Philippines, continued: Pottery of the Tagals and other groups ol 
Luzon; Land and water transportation; models of sleds and carts, 
canoes, freight and passenger boats; Tools and utensils of New Guinea; 
also Dwelling Group of the Dyaks; Village Group of the Early 
Hawaiians; Basketry of the African Tribes: note the fine checker weaving 
confined to Madagascar, where it was introduced by Malay colonists 
at an early period; Basketry of Oceanic Peoples: Dwelling Group of 
Samoans (Polynesians) of the highest type) ; houses of elaborate frame- 
work tied together with cocoa fibre and thatched with palm leaves. 

North Wall Cases (W. to E.) : Model of Dyak man, 
b}^ Theodore Mills; 2. Moros of Mindanao, a Mohammedan 
tribes, excelling in brass and iron work, weaving- and house 
building. Case contains armor helmets, shields, swords, lamps 
and bowls ; also inlaid Kris, Datto's mantle, Datto's Biiyo set, 
etc.; 3. Social Life of the Igorot (living in the mountains of 
Luzon and in grade of culture half-way between the Negrito 
and civilized tribes) : Case contains model of Igorot house 
and granery; domestic utensils, baskets for carrying ore, 
and storing food; fire-pistol for lighting fire, weapons and 
shields, traps and nooses for game, 4. Dyaks of Borneo: 
Drums, grinding dishes, cocoanut shredders, rice sieve, water 
gourds, quivers for blowgun darts, betel boxes (W. L. Abbott 
CoUecton). 5. Maiori Man (New Zealand), modeled by 
Henry /. Ellicotf. 6. The Fijians, noted for skill in work- 
ing wood: Case contains carved dishes, forks, spatulas, etc.; 



ETHNOLOGY EXHIBITS 301 

also pottery of various shapes, glazed with resin. 7. Arfs 
of the Sajnoans : Fine mats, fans, and baskets ; tapa cloth 
with fish designs, tapa skirt, cocoa cups and Kava bowls. 
The Samoans are skilled in making mats, baskets and fans 
from the pandanus and palm-leaf; their mats are of exquisite 
fineness, trimmed with red parrot feathers, and are valued 
as heirlooms ; baskets woven in checker designs of black and 
natural colors. The exhibits include a Kava bowl presented 
to President Cleveland b}' Malietoa, King of Samoa. 8. Tlie 
Hazvaiians: Excellent examples of stonework, including poi 
pounders, adze blades, net weights, lamps, divination stones, 
etc.; 9. Arts of the Fijians: {Collection of Wilkes Exploring 
Expedtion of 1838-42). 10. The Papuans: Characteristic 
material culture rich in objects pertaining to a low-grade of 
social life, spears, shields and daggers of bone and of obsidian, 
bone spatulas, nose-flutes, baskets and fetiches. 11. Models 
of a Somali Alan (E. Africa) and a Bambara an (Sudanese), 
from the Trocadero Museum, Paris, modeled by M. Herbert. 
12. Tribes of Oceania: Specimois t.vpical of the Oceanic cul- 
ture, in which the knowledge of iron Is lacking. Tribes of 
Australia (among the most primitive of mankind) : Spear 
throwers, iDoomerangs, clubs, stone axes, ornamented fur 
ro'bes, message stick, pair of shoes believed tO' render the 
wearer invisible; also Austrian Man modeled by Theodore A. 
Mills. 14. Africa. Collection of George W. Ellis, Jr.: In- 
cludes baskets, musical instruments, beaded aprons, wooden 
spoons, leather work, words and scabbards (from Vai, Gola, 
Mandingo, etc., in Liberia). 

The Herbert Ward African Collection, the gift of the 
sculptor's widow, Mrs. Sarita San ford Ward, now occupies 
the Northeast corner of the main floor of the Museum, which 
has been railed off from the rest of the Northeast Range, 
forming a separate pavilion. It comprises some 2600 objects 
of native industry, illustrative of the Ethnology of primitive 
Africa, together with the bronze statues representing Herbert 
j Ward's life work as a sculptor. The collection was installed 

i under the personal supervision of Mrs. Ward, and opened to 
the public March i. 1922. 
Herbert Ward was born in England in 1863. At the age of 15 be 
I set out on travels which took him through many unexplored lands. At 
j 21 he began his ■«'ork in Africa. While in the Congo, im the employ 
I of the Belgian Government, he rendered important aid to Stanley in 
^ his _ explorations. iF'or more than 5 years Mr. Ward lived among the 
natives of Central Africa, during which time he conceived the idea of 
preserving an epitome of the primitive native life as an index to the 
primitive life ofl all men. The records which he made on the spot were 
the basis of his subsequent famous sculptures. Mr. Ward's desire 



302 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

tliat his collections should be given to the Smithsonian was due partly 
to the fact that the founder of the Institution was also an Englishman 
and a wanderer like himself, but more especially because he realized 
that the largest body of the negro race that has attained civilization was 
here in America. 

The Ethnological Collection is arranged partly in a 
series of cases extending around three sides of the paviHon, 
and partly in huge groups upon the walls above the cases, in 
which countless strange and fantastic knives, spears and javelins 
form vast metallic sunbursts. The cases, beginning at the 
N. Wall and proceeding from W. to E., contain the following 
exhibits : 

I. Instruments of music, notably great war horns, worked 
from elephants' tusks, reduced by scraping to the thickness 
of a gourd; drums of wood, xylophones with gourd resona- 
tors, and having from 12 to 15 tongues, rattles, bells of wood 
and O'f iron, and rude harps. 2. Works in iron, clay and 
other substances; a variety of ivory objects ranging from 
fetches to oirnaments, bracelets and carved pipes. 3. Natural 
History Collection : An articulated skeleton of a gorilla, skulls 
of monkeys; teeth, horns and tusks of various mammals. 
4. Native fetiches and wood carvings ; stools, head-rests and 
domestic utensils. Above on wall gigantic head of a bull 
elephant. 5. Knives and other small weapons ; poisoned 
arrows of the African Dwarf Tribes. 6. Costumes and 
adornments : textiles native to the ' Congo, the tie-and-dye 
fabrics and tufted fabrics ; primitive loom for raffia cloth ; 
basketry and neck ornaments. 7. Swords and large cutting 
weapons : the variation from the primitive leaf form of blades 
indicates the talent of tihe smaths who forged with rude imple- 
ments. 

The ^Collection of Bronzes. The more important 
sculptures occupy the central space of the pavilion. The 
visitor approaching from W. notes first, on L., The Fugitives 
(a mother, baby and small child fleeing from slave hunters). 
On R. The Charm Doctor (representing a sorcerer perform- 
ing an incantation). Further R. is *A' Congo Artist (this 
figure tracing a picture on the sand typifies the rude beginning 
of art). In center of pavilion is *The Chief of the Tribe 
(symbolic of the weight of primitive government). Near 
E. Wall, from L. to R., are : The Idol Alaker (native carving 
a wooden fetish) ; Defiance ; The Fire Maker ; *Distress 
(Mr. Ward's last work and in the opinion of critics his great- 
est) ; The Forest Lovers (exhibited in Paris under title "Les 
Bantus," the Bantu stock having furnished most of the slaves 
brought to America). Behind The Charm Doctor is The 



ZOOLOGICAL EXHIBITS 303 

Wood Carrier (modeled from a Senegal girl). Along the 
wall between the cases are some smaller sculptures : Head 
of Gorilla (only attempt at animal sculpture); Congo Boy; 
Sleeping Africa; Fragment (headless, armless female 
figure) ; Head of Bakongo Girl; Head of Aruimi Man (type 
of Congo cannibal), Mr. Ward's first work; Crouching 
Woman. At N. W. cor. of pavilion is a portrait bust of 
Herbert Ward, by Sir William Goscomhe John. 

g. Zoological Exhibits 

Main Floor — Continued: West Wing and Range: Zo- 
ology: Mammals and Birds. 

Central Hall, Mammals of North America: The spec- 
cial features of this collection are some admirable Habitat 
Groups, and unusually complete exhibits of species and sub- 
species of certain families, especially among the smaller 
fur-bearing mammals of commercial value. The central cases 
(the larger single, the smaller in pairs) are, from E. to W., 
as follows: 2. (R.) Sea Otter, Latax lutris (Linn.) ;■ 3. (L.) 
Mink, Marten, Weasel, Ferret, Fisher, etc., 20 species ; 4. Paci- 
fic Walrus, Odobenus divergens (IlUg.) ; 5. North American 
Eared Seals, or Sea-bears (Fam. Otariidae) : Alaskan Fur 
Seal, Callotaria alascanns {Jordan and Clark) ; California 
Sea-!lion, ZaJophus calif ornianus (I^esson) ; *St€llar's Sea- 
lion. Eumetopias stelleri (Lesson) : 6. *Habitat Group : 
American Bison, collected and mounted by William T. Horna- 
day in 1886-87. Note typical alkaline water-hole of Great 
Northern Range; also vegetation including the low Buffalo 
Grass, Bouteloua; Broom Sage, Andropogon, and Prickly 
Pear, Opiintia; 7. *Haibitat Group : Wapiti or "Elk," Cervus 
canadensis (Erxleben), Snow scene: the specimens are from 
the Yellowstone National Park; 8. *Habitat Group. Eastern 
Moose, Alces americamis {Jar dine) ; Cases 9. (R.) and 10. 
(L.) Fam. Sciiiridae, Squirrels and Chipmunks (55 varieties) ; 
Cases II. (R.) and 12 (L.), Fam. Leporidae, or Hares and 
Fam. Ochotonidae, or Pikas (22 species) ; 13. (R) Pocket 
Gophers, Kangaroo Rats, Prairie Dogs, Woodchuck, etc. (32 
speciefs) ; 14. (L.) Fam. Muridac, 'Rlats, Mice, Lemmings, Musk- 
rats, etc. (35 species) ; 15. (R.) Fam. Hystricidae or Porcu- 
j:>ines ; Fam. Castoridae or Beavers ; Fam. Aplodontiidae or Se- 
wcllels; 16. (L.) Fam. Talpidae or Moles (7 species) ; Fam. 
Soricidae or Shrews (9 species) ; Fam. Vcspertilionidae or Bats 
(9 species); 17. South American Mammals: Vicunya, Lama 
vicugna {Molina) ; Savanna Deer, Odoco ileus gymnotis 



304 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

(Weigmann) ; also 14 species of S. Amer. Monkeys and 
2 Sloths. 

Wall Cases. A tour of these may now conveniently 
be made, beginning on the north wall, W. end, and proceed- 
ing eastward: i. Mammals of the Nearctic Region: Musk- 
ox, Oinbos moschatus {Zhnmcnnann) ; Alaskan White Sheep, 
Ovis dalli (Nelson) ; White-lipped peccary, Tayassu pecari 
(Fischer)^ etc.; 2. Habitat Group: Prong-hoTn. Anti- 
locapra umericana (Ord), seven specimens; 3. Habitat 
Group : Texan Nine-banded Armadillo, Dasypus novemcinc- 
tiis (Linn.); 4. Habitat Group: Rocky Mountain Sheep or 
Bighorn, Ot/is canadensis (Shazv) ; 5. Habitat Group; 
American Badger, Taxidea iaxns {Schreber) ; 6. Habitat 
Group: Musk-oyi, Ovihos moschatus {Zimmermann) ; 7. *North 
American iSeals and Manatees : a. Florida Manatee, Triehe- 
chus latirostris {Harlan); h. Harp Seal. Phoca groenlandica 
{Erxlehen) ; c. Harbor Seal, Phoca vituUna (Linn.) ; d. Rib- 
bon Seal, Phoca fasciata (Zimmcrmann) ; e. Ringed Seal, 
Phoca hispida (Schreber) f. Bearded Seal, Erignathus har- 
batus (Erxleben) ; g. Caribbean 'Seal, Monachus tropicalis 
(Gray) ; h. California Elephant Seal, Mirounga angustirostris 
(Gill); i. Hooded Seal, Cystophora cristata (Erxleben). 

Wall Cases continued. East Wall : i. North American 
Cats, Skunks, Raccoon and their Allies : 2. North America 
Wild Dogs, Foxes and Wolves. 

South Wall: i. Habitat Group: Prairie Wolf, Coyote; 
male, female and young, designed by William T. Hornaday ; 
2. North American Bears : a. Polar Bear, Thalarctos 
maritmus (Phipps) ; b. Kodiak Bear, Ursus middendorfi 
(Mcrfiam) ; c. Grizzly Bear, Ursus horribilis (Ord) ; 
d. Barren Ground Bear, Ursus richardsoni ( Swains on) ; Black 
Bear, U. amcricanus (Pallas) ; *Glacier Bear, U. emmonsi 
(Dall), a rare species; 3. Habitat Group: Barren Ground 
Caribou, Rangifer granti (Allen); 4. Habitat Group: 
Prairie Dogs, designed by William T. Hornaday; 5. Habi- 
tat Group: Rocky Mountain Goat, Oreamnos amcricanus 
(Blainville), collected and presented by George Bird Grinnell; 
6. Habitat Group : Virginia Opossum, Didelphis virginiana 
(Kerr), designed by William T. Hornaday; 7. Habitat 
Group : Newfoundland Caribou, Rangifer terraenovae 
(Bangs); 8. Mammals of the Nearctic Region: a. Moun- 
tain Caribou, Rangifer montanus (Scion Thompson) ; b. 
Alaskan Moose, Alces gigas (Miller) ; c. Sonoran Deer, 
Odocoileus couesl (Cones and Yarrozv) ; d. Olympic Elk, Cer- 
vus roosevelti (Merriam). 



ZOOLOGICAL EXHIBITS 305 

West Wall: Central and South American Mammals: 
I. Fam. Felidae: Mexican Jaguar, Felis hernandesii {Gray) ; 
Mitis Cat, Felis mitts (Cuvier) ; Ocelot, F. pardalis (Gray) ; 
Paraguay Jaguar, F. paraguensis (Hollistcr) ; Puma, F. con- 
color (Linn.); Jaguarondi, F. jaguarondi (Fischer); Wea- 
sels, Otters, Kinkajous, etc.; 2. S. Amer. Mammals continued: 
Caipybara^ Hydrochaerus (Erxleben) ; Coypu, Myocastor coy- 
pus (Molina); Venezuela Rice-rat, Orysomys flavicans 
(Thomas); Giant Armadillo, Priodontes gigas. (Cuvier). 

West Wing, continued: North Aisle, Chiefly European 
Mammals and Birds : i. *Habitat Group, Polar Bears, col- 
lected in Barents Sea, by party on board the S. S. Frithjof, 
Second Relief Ship to the Ziegler Polar Expedition; 2. 
Kashmir iStag, Cervus cashmerianus (Falconer) ; European 
Red Deer, Cervus elaphus (Linn.) ; Norway Elk, Alces alces 
(Linn.) ; Musk Deer, Moschus moschiferus (Linn.) ; Roe 
Deer, Capreolus capreoluis (Linn.) ; Pere David Deer, 
Elaphurus davidianus (Milne-Edwards), from China, but 
5xtinct in wild state; Fallow Deer, Dama dama (Linn.); 
3. European Bison, Bison bonasus (Linn.) ; Chamois, Dorcas 
pazelle, etc. ; Takin,, Budorcas taxicolor (Hodgson) ; 
faftanese Serow, Nemorrhacdus crispus (Temminck) ; Thar. 
\lpine Ibex, etc. ; 4. Pamir Sheep, Kamschatka Sheep, Great 
Thibetan Sheep or Argali, European Mouflon or Wild 'Sheep, 
Vlarkhor, African Sheep, Aru, Urial or Sha and Chinese Wild 

' The cases W. of this point contain birds, which had best 
le taken in later, in connection wnth the W. Range. Re- 
timing E. to starting point, we pass on S. Wall three cases: 
Case I. European Badger, Japanese Badger, Japanese Otter, 
'^^^ashmir Fox, Genet, Mongoose, etc. ; Case 2. Weasels, Mar- 
ens, Moles, Shrews, Polecats, Hedgehogs and Syrian Coney ; 
kase 3. Various kinds of European Dormice, Squirrels, Red 
iarmot, Jerboa, Rabbits, Hares, Lemmings, Hamsters and 
foles. Note especially the exhibit of rats w^hich carry the 
bubonic Plague. 
nj The visitor may now cross through the Central Hall to 
■flhe E. end of the South Aisle, containing chiefly South Asiatic 
\lamviah: i. *Habitat Group : Or?ing-ni?ir\. Pongo pygmaeus 
^Hopphis) ; represents a fight between two old males and con- 
squent alarm of females and young; mounted by William T. 
ifornaday; 2. Habitat Group: Proboscis Monkey, Nasalis 
\\irvatus (IVurmb), mounted by C. F. Adams: 3. Habitat 
r[roup: Gibbon. Hylobafes Icuciscus (Miiller and Schlegel), 
lounted by C. E. Adams; 4. Collection of Asiatic Monkeys, 



3o6 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

14 species; Indian Tapir, Long-nosed Boar, Babirussa, Black 
Buck, etc.; 5. Zebu, Bos iiidicus (Linn.) ; Yak, Poephagus grun- 
niens (Linn.) ; 6. Sambar, Rusa unicolor {Kerr), largest deer 
in India; Bornean Barking Deer, Axis Deer, Indian Muntjac. 
etc. ; Asiatic Carnivora : Tiger, Marbled Cat, Leopard, Bintu- 
iTong, Banded Civet, etc.; 7. Dugong, Halicore dugong {Erx- 
lebcn), gift of Linnean Society of New South Wales; also 
Panda, Ailurus fulgens (F. Ciivier) ; fcadgcrs, bats, shrews, 
etc.; Australian Mammals; Kangaroos, 12 species, ranging from 
the Great Gray Kangaroo, Macropus giganteus to the Common 
Rat Kangaroo, Potorous tridactylus ; 8. South [Pacific, Australia 
and Nezv Guinea; Dingo Dog, Flying Phalanger, Common 
Wombat, Sea Elephant, etc.; African Mammals: Wild Hog of 
Africa; Gorilla and other African Apes; African Monkeys, 14 
species: 10. African Monkeys continued; 15 species; Hyaenas 
and Jackals; 11. Carnivora of Africa; Lion, Leopard, Chetah, 
etc. ; African Antelopes, 

North Wall Cases: (W. to E.) i. Mammals of the 
Oriental Region: Monkeys, 5 exhibits; 2. Squirrels, 5 
exhibits ; 3. Bats, Flying Squirrels, Porcupines, Crateromys, 
Rats and Mice, 21 exhibits; 4, Mammals of Australia 
and Tasmania; Common Echidna, Tachyglossus acideatus\ 
(Shazc) ; Duckbill, Ornithorhynchus anatinus (Shaw) ; Tas- 
manian Marsupial Wolf, Thylacynus cynocephalus (Harris) : 
Dasyures, Anteaters. Tasmanian Devil, Sarcophilus ursinus 
(Harris) ; 5. Ethiopian Region Temminck's Pangolin. Manis 
femminckii (Stnuts), Aard Vark, Orycteropus capensis 
(Gmelin), etc.; 6. Ethiopian Region continued: Numerous 
species of Mouse, Dormouse, Squirrel, Cape Jumping Hare, 
etc. ; 7. Ethiopian Region concluded : Shrew, Ichneumon,| 
Mongoose, Ratel, Falanaka, etc. t 

Southwest Pavilion: Zoology continued: Mammal^ 
of Africa. This collection includes important exhibits se i' 
cured by the Smithsonian African Expedition under CoU 
Theodore Roosevelt. ji 

Case I. (S. W. cor., opposite S. Aisle) : *Habitat Group! 
three adult lions and two cubs, drinking from water-holtin 
dug by Zebras (Roosevelt Expedition, British West Africa) \ 
mounted by George B. Turner; Case 2. African Antelopej' 
(partly Roosevelt Expedition, partly gift of Dr. W. L. Abj. 
bctt and others). Bush Duiker, Cephalophus grimmia (Shaw) 
Maxwell's Duiker, Cephalophus maxzvelli (H. Smith); Black j 
crowned antelope C nigrifrons (Gray); Sassaby, Damaliscm 



ZOOLOGICAL EXHIBITS 307 

lunatus (Burchell) ; Topi, DamaUscus jimcla (MatscJiie) ; 
Wildebeest, Conrwchaetes gnu (Ziniui.) ; Brindled Gnu, Conno- 
chactcs iaurina {Burchell) ; Bontebok, D. pygargiis {Pallas) ', 
Coke's Hartebeest, Alcelaphus cokci {Giinther) ; Case 3- 
Equine Antelope, Hippotragus cquinus {Geoffroy) ; Sable An- 
telope, Hippotragus niger {Harris) ; Case 4. (West Wall) 
Habitat Group : Horsetailed Monkey, Colobiis caudatus 
{Thomas), group of five collected by Dr. W. L. Abbott in juni- 
per forests at base of Mt. Kilimanjaro; Case 5. (Central Ex- 
hibit) Habitat Group: Coke's Hartebeest (Roosevelt Expedi- 
tion) ; mounted by James L. Clark; Case 6. *Habitat Group: 
Square-lipped Rhinoceros, Ceratothcrium simiim cottoni {Ly- 
dekkcr) ; also Rhinoceros bird, Buphagus erythrorhynchus, the 
inseparable companion of the rhinoceros (Roosevelt Exped.) ; 
mounted by James L. Clark; Case 7. (East W^all) Antelopes: 
Defassa W^aterbuck, Kobus deifassa nzoiae {Matschie) ; Water- 
buck, Kobus cllipsiprymnus {Ogilby) ; Masailand Klipspring- 
er, Oreotragus oreotragus schillingsi {Neumann) ; Nile Lech- 
wii, Onoiragus megaceros {Fitzinger) ; Kirk's Pigmy Antelope, 
Madoqiia kirkii {Giinther) ; Cape Oribi, Ourebia ourebi 
\{Zimm.) ; Case 8. (E. Wall continued) Antelopes: Gerenuk, 
Lithocranius zvallefi {Brooke), Thompson's Gazelle, Gaaella 
'hompsoni {Giinther); Grant's Gazelle, Gaaella granti 
^Brooke) ; Pallali Antelope, Aepyceros melampus {Lichten- 
}tein) \ Pencil-eared Gemsbok, Oryx callotis {Thomas); 
Case 9. (Center Exhibit) ^Habitat Group: East x\frican 
jBuflfalo, Synceras caffer radcliffei {Thomas), accompanied 
oy the Cow-beron, Bubnlcus hicidus, that feeds upon 
grasshoppers, etc., aroused by the passing of the 
Buffalo (Rodsevelt Exipiedition) ; mounted by G. B. Turner; 
Tase 10. Two-Horned RJiinooeros, Rhinoceros bicornis 
[Linn.)', West African Buffalo; African Elephant. "Mungo," 
?ift of Adam Forepaugh'; Case 11. Burchell's Zebra, Equus 
\urchelli {Gray) ; Case 12. (Gentral Case Exhibit) Habitat 
Jroup: Three Grevy's Zebras, Equus grevyi {Oustalet) and 
Ijwo East African Beisa, Oryx annectens {Ilollister) ; Case 
HZ- (W. Wall) Equine Antelope, Hippotragus equinus {Geof- 
\roy) ; Case 14. (N. Wall) Uganda Giraffe, Giraffa camel- 
pardalis roth\schildi {Lydekker) ; *Okapi, Okapia johnstoni 
\\Sdater), a rare animal related to the Giraffe and known to 
'laturalists only since 1900; Reticulated Giraffe, Giraffa reticii- 
\\'ata {de Winton) ; Case 15. Habitat Group: Ostriches and 
tljoung, Roosevelt Expedition, 



3o8 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

West Wing: North Aisle concluded: The western half 
of this aisle is occupied by part ot the collection of Birds: 
but since it is crowded, badly lighted, and consists mainly 
of the least complete and least interesting portion of this 
sub-division, little time need be spent here. There are two 
cases to a row, each case double-sided : 

Row I. Birds of Africa: conspicuous are the Kaffir 
Great-tailed Whydah, Blue-bellied Roller and Senegal King- 
fisher; Row 2. Many species of South African Plantain- 
eaters and Hornbills ; Row 3. African Eagles and Vultures ; 
Guinea^ Fowl, 5 species; (E. side) iSaddle-billed Stork, 
Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis {Shaw) ; Marabou Stork, 
Leptoptilos crumeniferus {Lesson) ; Kavirondo Crane, Balea- 
rica gibhericeps {Reichenow) ; Rosy Pelican, Pelecanus 
rosens {Gmelin), all of these from Roosevelt Expedition; 
Rows 4 and 5. Birds of Asia, Philippine Islands, Malacca, 
etc.; Row 6. Asiatic Eagles, including the Monkey-eat- 
ing Eagle, Pifthecophaga jefferyi {Grant) ; Jungle-fowl, in- 
cluding the Red Jungle-fowl, Gallus galliis {Linn), ancestor 
of the domestic species; Javan Jungle-fowl, Gallus varius\ 
{Shaiv) ; Gray Jungle-fowl, Gallus sonnerati {Temminck ), 
etc.; also (E. side) Pheasants, Peacocks, Adjutant Bird, Bit- 
terns, etc. ; Rows 7-10. Birds of Euro'pe. The eastern 
cases, containing mammals, have already been visited (p. 305). 

On the S. Wall (E. to W.) are three small Habitat 
Groups: i. Argus Pheasant, Argnsiamis argiis {Linn.):] 
2. Rhinoceros Hornbill, Biiceros rhinoceros {Linn.), show- 
ing curious nest ; 3. *Whale-headed Stork, Balaeniceps rex 
(Roosevelt Expedition). 

Western Range: Birds continued: The collections here 
exhibited include the Birds of Australia and the South Pacific f 
and the Birds of North and South America. The cases irj 
this range along the W. wall are placed transversely, or a 
right angles with the wall ; those on the E. side are groupec 
so as to form alcoves, often with a small central case in thf 
alcove. Since the birds are grouped according to habitat 
from S. to N., the visitor will find it more convenient tf 
zigzag back and forth between the transverse cases and thi 
alcoves, thus covering both sides of the range simultane 
ously. 

Entering from S. W. Pavillion, we find on L., a smal 
Habitat Group, the *Kea or Mountain Parrot, Nestor nota\ 
bills {Gould). 

This bird, a native of New Zealand is naturally vegetarian in diet) 
about 1870, however, when sheepraising was extensively introduce^ 



ZOOLOiGICAL EXHIBITS 309 

many sheep were found dead, with gaping wounds torn in their backs 
and sides. The source of destruction was traced to these parrots, which 
had acquired an unnatural appetite for sheep fat. This group shows two 
birds at their abnormal feast. 

2d Habitat Group, *Lyre Bird, Menura siiperha 
{Latham): ist Transverse Case: Birds of Paradise: 
*Empress Augusta Victoria's Bird of Paradise; ^Greater 
Bird of Paradise; Meyer's Promerops ; Grand Prome- 
rops, etc.; 2d T. Case: Paroquets, Lorikeets, Cocka- 
toos, Kingfishers, and other birds of Australia, New 
Guinea, Tasmania, Celebes, etc.; In central aisle are 
two small cases: a. Australian Birds concluded: Fly- 
catchers. Robin-chats, Fantails, and other small varieties; b. 
South American Birds: vivid hued Caciques. Orioles, Trou- 
pials, etc.; 3rd, 4th and 5th T. Cases: South America con- 
tinued: Toucan, 26 species; Aracari, 12 species; Costa Rican 
Quetzal ; Reisplendent Trogon ; Chachalaca, Curassow, etc. ; Op- 
posite, 1st Alcove; Cassowary, Ibis, Wandering Albatross, 
Herons, Ducks, etc.; Parrots. 70 species; Hawks, 43 species; 
5d Central Aisle Case : South American Crackles and 
,Drioles; Habitat Group, *Hoatzin, Opisthocomus hoazin 
■QhiUcr) ; 2d Alcove : Sun-grebes. Penguins, Rheas, etc. ; here 
dso begms the Collection of **North American Birds, the 
nost extensive, best arranged, and most fully labeled of the 
Vluseum's ornithological exhibits : This alcove contains many 
(ong-birds: Buntings, Cardinals; Tanagers, Orioles, Black- 
.)irds, Bobolinks, etc.; 6th T. Case: Finches, 108 exhibits; 
>parrows, 108 exhibits ; Swallows. Wax-wings. Wrens, Mock- 
ng-birds, Thrushes, Dippers, Larks, Wag-tails, etc., 172 ex- 
libits; 3d Alcove: Warblers. ;Shrikes, etc., continued: 161 
xhibits; Habitat Group: Carolina Parakeet, Conuropsis 
irohnensis (Linn.); Auks, Puffins, Guiillemots, Auklets, etc.; 
*Great Auk and Auk's Egg, Plautus impennis, {Linn.). 

This bird has for many years been extinct and specimens 
f either bird or eg^ constitute one of the great rarities of 
'llections. 'There are only three known specimens in Amer- 
i : a. at Vassar College. Poughkeepsie ; b. at the Academy of 
atural Sciences, Philadelphia; c. the present specimen, in 
e U. S. National Museum. 

;th T. Case: Flycatchers, Phoebes. Chickadees. Alagpies, 
avens. Jays ; Owls. 56 exhibits. 8th T. Case : Woodpeckers, 
ipsuckers, Kingfishers, Swifts, Humming-birds. Whioooor- 
dls. Goatsuckers, Cuckoos, Flickers, gth T. Case: Hawks, 
ites. Falcons. 66 specimens; Eagles, Vultures, etc., 2^ speci- 
ens. Opposite, 4th Alcove: Ptarmigans, Sage Grouse, Bob- 



310 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

whites, Quail; Habitat Groups; Q. Ruffed • Grouse ; 2. Dusky 
Grouse. 5th Alcove: Plovers, Lapwings, Oyster-catchers, 
Sandpipers, Snipe, Curlews, and other wading birds; Grouse. 
Wild Turkeys, Frairiehens, etc. loth T. Case: Doves, 
Pigeons, Cranes, Coots, etc. At W. end, wall case containing 
*Habitat Group, "An Interrupted Meal." 

This group, mounted by Frederic A. Lucas, received a 
diploma of honor from the Society of American Taxidermists, 
in Boston. It shows a Red-tailed Hawk, Buieo horealis, at- 
tacked by a Goshawk, Accipitcr atricapillus, while eating a 
Ruffed Grouse. 

nth T. Case: Terns and Gulls, 75 exhibits. Adjoining 
E. end. : *Habitat Group. Passenger Pigeons, Ectopistcs 
migratorius Linn. 

In Audubon's time, this species of bird, now extinct, ex- 
isted in thousands of millions. They were wantonly killed inj 
prodigious quantities, for food or for sport, but also for feed-j 
ing hogs. The last surviving specimen died in captivity in the; 
Cincinnati Zoological Garden, Sept. i, 1914- 

I2th T. Case : Herons, Egrets, Bitterns. 36 specimens! 
13th T. Case : Geese, Brants. Spoonbills, Ibises. Eider Ducks 
Swans, Mergansers, etc. At E. End. Habitat Group, AmericarJ 
Flamingo. Phornicopferus ruber (Linn.) . 14th T. Case: Loom 
Grebe, Petrel, Fulmar, Albatross. Opposite, 6th Alcove : Teal 
Widgeon, Wood Duck, ^Mallard, Booby, Anhinga or Snak< 
Bird, Cormorant, Man-o'-war Bird, Pelican. 

h. Miscellaneous Collections 

Second Floor. Rotunda Gallery. Here is placed (1922' 
the Hugo Worch Collection of Pianos. It comprises 112 ex 
hibits, including specimens from Europe, Austria, Italj 
America, etc. Note especially the Italian Harpsichord, 153^ 
The Upright Piano made by C. F. L. Albrecht, Phila., 182 
(one of the first Uprights made in that city) ; Upright Piani 
made by Andrew Stein, Vienna, 1788 (the oldest and rares 
Upright in this country) ; Upright Piano made by John Os 
borne, Boston, 1817 (the most primitive American UprigH 
of which there is any trace) ; Piano made by John Sellert 
Phila., about 1775 (one of the first pianos made in Americal 

Skcoxd Floor. East Wing. South Aisle: Minerolog 
continued: 



MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS 311 

Central Cases: Nos. i to 7 contain the *Isaac Lea Col- 
lection of Gems and Precious Stones. 

The nucleus of this collection was assembled by Dr. Isaac Lea, 
the well-known naturalist of Philadelphia. In 1894 it was willed 
to The National Museum by his daughter, Mrs. Frances Lea Chamber- 
lain. Her husband, Dr. L. T. Chamberlain, who was Honorary Asso- 
ciate in Mineralogy until 1913, added a large number of specimens, 
and in his will left a sum of money the income of which is to be 
applied to the preservation and increase of the collection. 

Case I. Specimens of Corundum, Rubies, Topazes, Sap- 
phires, etc. ; Case 2. Aquamarines, Beryls, Emeralds, Zircons^ 
Pyropes, Tourmalines, etc.; Case 3. Moonstone, Amazonstone, 
Lapis Lazuli, Rhodonite, Obsidian, Malachite, Amber, etc.; 
Case 4. Amethyst, Citrine Quartz, Rose Quartz, Smoky 
Quartz, etc. ; Case 5. Rock Crystal, Opalescent Quartz, Aven- 
turine Quartz, Chr3'SOphrase, Cat's eye, Tiger-eye, Jasper^ 
Bloodstone, etc.; Case 6. Agate and Moss-Agate, On.vx and 
Cameos of Onyx, Carnelian, Sardonyx, Chalcedony, etc.; 
Case /._ Jade. Opal, Baroche and other Pearls, Shell Cameos, 
Turquoises, Variscite, Coral, etc. 

The two succeeding cases contain: Case 8. Many varie- 
Jes of Gem Opal, imbedded in rocks; Case 9. Gold nug- 
jets, wire gold, leaf gold, crystallized gold, placer gold, native 
[filver, etc. 

'I North Wall Cases : This exhibit consists of 14 double 
lases, containing a Systematic Collection of minerals 
rranged in series according to Dana's "System of Mineral- 
ogy," 6th ed., 1892. The classification follows : i. The Chem- 
:al Composition. 2. The Crystallo'graphic Relationships. The 
pecimens in the several cases are fully labeled and explained. 
West End Wall : Systematic Collection, continued. Sup- 
lemental cases: Exhibits of minerals showing Physical 
. froperties, namely, a. Color; b. Lustre; c. Hardness; d. 
Crystalization ; e. Structure, f. Radioactivity. 
; South Wall Cases: i. Exhibit illustrating Native Ele- 
ments. Only 17 of the chemical elements, so far identified, 
re found in appreciable quantities in the native or free state. 
Calcite an Aragonite. 3. Table Case: Exhibit of imitation 
nd artificial gems ; the former being ingenious substitutes,, 
hile the latter are chemical reproductions of the 
itural stones. 4. Quartz and its variations (the most abun- 
mt and most widely distributed of all minerals). 5. Table 
ase: Gem minerals, a. in natural rough form; b. Gems 
: the cut and finished form. 6. Dishrow Collection of New- 
'Tsey Zeolites and Associated Minerals. Gift of William 
Disbrow, Newark, N. J. 7. Table Case: Miscellaneous 



312 RIDER'S \VASHINGTOx\ 

collection of specimens recently described in the Museum 
Publications. 8. Containing mainly carved specimens of Rock 
Crystal, Agate, Serpentine, etc. 9. Varieties of Silica occurrinii 
in the natural state. 10. Table Case: Shepard Collection of 
Minerals, containing many new mineral species discovered and 
tontaining complete series of all known radioactive minerals 
and radium ores, both American and foreign, together with 
photograph autographed card of Madame Curie. 

Charles Upham Shepard (1804-86) was one of the earliest of 
American mineralogists. His collection, part of which is contained 
in this case, includes over three hundred gems, and is exhibited through 
the courtesy of his son, Dr. C. XJ. Shepard of Summerville, N. C. 

II. Varieties of Carbonite of Lime occurring in nature. 
12. Table-case : Shepard Collection continued. 13. Miscel- 
laneous exhibit of minerals, comprising specimens too large 
to be included in the Systematic Collection on N. Wall, 
14. Table-case: Minerals of Lake Superior Region. Mich.i 
This locality has become famous for the beauty of its min-j 
erals, especially for its copper and iron ores. 15. Miscellaneou^i 
exhibits continued from case 13. 16. Recent accessions (i9i6-| 
17) not yet classified. 17. ^Malachite and Azurite. Note thfj 
vivid colorings. 

South East Pavilion. This hall is devoted to exhibits of 
L The metal-bearing minerals ; IL The non-metallic minerals 
The former are shown in cases along the S. E. and N. wallsi 
"beginning with the first case E. of No. 17 in South aisle 

I. Radium ores and Radio-active minerals : Carnotite, Tor 
bernite, Uraninite, Gummite, etc. 2. Copper Ores. Easj 
Wall : 3. Gold Ores. 4 and 5. Silver Ores. 6. Lead Ores. 
Zinc Ores. 8. Copper Ores. 9. Copper Ores concluded; Ore'i 
of Antimony and minor metals, including Arsenic, Bismutl 
Cadmium and Platinum. 10, Mercury and Aluminnuim ores' 

II. Nickel ores. 12. Tungsten. Vanadium and minor metal 
msed in steel making (Titanium, Molybdenum, etc.). i; 
14, 15, 16. Iron Ores. 

West Wall (N. to S.) : Non-metallic Alinerals. i. Natun 
Salts, Rare Earths and Minor Minerals. 2. Nitrates, Borate 
and Sulphates. 3. Haloid Salts ; Halites, Fluorites and Cryc 
lites. 4. Micas, Steatites and Soapstones. 5. Asbestos, Crud 
and Manufactured. 6. The Diamond. This exhibit illui 
trates the geological conditions of the famous diamond fielo' 
constituting the De Beers Consolidated Mines, Ltd., Kini 
berly, S. A. 

East Wing, North Aisle : The exhibits herein containc|' 
■oomprising thirty-three wall cases and many other specimen 



MISGELLANiEOUS COLLECTIONS 313 

attached to the walls, and exhibited in the central corridor, 
consist exclusively of building and ornamental stones, marble 
granite onyx, etc. By far the greater part of the collection 
has been donated by the leading quarries of America, and 
consists chiefly of cubes, showing the grain and quality of 
the stone both polished and in the rough. 

East Range and North Range, East Section: North 
American Antiquities. This collection extends uninter- 
ruptedly through these two ranges and inner side aisles, and 
may be most conveniently visited by following one line of 
cases at a time, throughout the entire length of both ranges. 

East Range, East Wall: (S. to (N.) : i. Model of 
Penasco Blanco, an ancient ruined Pueblo of New Mexico. 
2. Ancient pottery from the Rio San Francisco, New Alexico. 
3-4. Antiquities of New Mexico: Arrow points, pottery, bone 
whistles, bone awls, etc. 5. Antiquities from pre-historic 
ruins in southern Arizona: mats, baskets, bags, knives, 
sandals, etc. 6. Ancient pottery from the Jemez Plateau. 
N. M. 7. Fabrics, sandals, basketry, etc., from Socorro 
Co., N. M. 8. Aboriginal stone implements from New 
(Mexico. 9. Basketry, woven cloth, sandals, hafted axes, 
etc., from Cliff Dwelings of Colorado. 10. Mauls, 
axes, pestles and ancient pottery from S. W. Colorado. 
II. Grooved stone axes of many types from many localities. 
i[2. Antiquities oi western Utah, including wooden agricul- 
ijural implements, _ pottery, pestles, arrow heads, bone awls, 
|tc. 13. Antiquities from Wyoming. 14. Implements, weap- 
ons, etc., from Idaho, Washington, ^Montana, California and 
;] Oregon. 15. Synoptic Series of Abraiding implements used 
; ^y Indians from Maine to California; also Synoptic Series 
' )f Plummit stones. 16, Arrow-heads, stone implements and 
jDOttery from Texas, Iowa, Arkansas and Indiana. 17. Rejectage 
;i?f blade-making, from Mill Creek Chert Quaries, Illinois. 
^i!8. Arrow-heads, implements, pottery, etc.. found in mounds 
\i Illinois. 19. Synoptic Series of Notched axes. 

North Wall (E. toW.) : i. ^Aboriginal Iron-Mining Group, 
,wking underground in an ore-body of hematite. 2. Synoptic 
series of hematite implements, also samples of ore and of yel- 
)w and red oxides and white Kaolin, dug out by pre-historic 
ribes in Missouri. 3. Antiquities of Missouri. 4." Rejectage of 
jianufacture, Flint Ridge Quarries, Ohio, 5, Ohio continued. 
|rrow-head_s, spearpoints, hammer-stones, pipes, knives, etc. 
\. Antiquities from Madisonville cemetery. Ohio. 7. The 
H. Harris Collection of Archaeological oibjects from Ohio 
d Missouri. 8. Contents of a Spring Shrine, Afton, Okla, 



314 RIDER'S WASHINGTOxN 

p. Antiquities from West Virginia and Tennessee. lO. Reject- 
age of blade-making, from Peoria Chert Quarries, ii. Mound 
Collection, mainl}' from Monroe and Loudan Cos., Term. 
12. Picks, sledges and sheets from aboriginal mica mines, 
N. C 13. Antiquities of Kentucky, including grooved axes, 
celts, pestles, spear-heads, drill-points, etc.; also ancient pot- 
tery from Arkansas. 14. Novaculite Quarries of Arkansas: 
refuse oif manufacture and implements used in the work of 
making leaf -shaped blades. 15. Antiquities of Arkansas, 
including earthenware, arrow-heads, hammer-stones, etc. 16. 
Synoptic Series of cache blades. 17. Ancient earthenware of 
the Eastern States. 18. Synoptic Series of tobacco pipes. 

North Range, Central Cases (W. to E.) : i. (W. Wall 
Case) xAboriginal sculpture of the United States, including 
casts. 2 and 3. Synoptic Series oif Tobacco Pipes (most 
varied in design of any aboriginal stone work) : 4. S>'noptic 
Series of pierced tablets and gorgets — a numerous and widely 
distributed class of pre-historic rehcs, which are usually: 
regarded as personal omaments. 5. Ceremonial objects! 
(temporary instalment). 6. Synoptic Series of Boat-shapedj 
Amulets; also Bird-shaped Amulets-; found in burial mounds 
and graves in the Ohio Valley and around the Great Lakes; 
also Series of "Bannerstones," resembling double-bladed adzcej 
and pierced to receive a haft; use unknown; 7. Masterpieces 
of flint chipping: long blades, arrow-heads, etc. 8. Synopti 
Series of pigment plates (stone plates or palettes used byi 
Mound Builders for grinding pigments) ; also Synoptic Series 
of gaming discs used by eastern U. S. tribes. 9. Chipped 
fiint blades. 10. Synoptic Series of cache blades. 

(East Range, Central Exhibits) N. to S. : i. "The Stone 
Implement Maker," model of figure chipping a bowlder witB 
a stone hammer. 2. Chipped flint discs peculiar to Ohio, Misn 
sissippi, Temiessee and Cumberland River valleys. 3. Syni 
optic Series of cup stones, eastern U. S. 4. S3nioptic Seriej 
of Agricultural Implements, chiefly from middle Mississippi 
valleyT 5. Tennessee and Missouri: blades, celts, alsi 
abraiding stone used to sharpen stone implements. 6. Synt 
optic Series of Celts, eastern U. S. 7. Pseudo-Artifactsi 
This series contains natural forms of rock variously produce^ 
resembling or suggesting works of art, but bearing no actual 
trace of human handiwork. 8. Synoptic Series of Adz Blades 
eastern U. S. 9. Co'pper ornaments from mounds ; also rub(| 
bing stones and implements. 10. Agricultural ImplementI 
continued. 11. Bone awls and other relics from mounds nea|| 
Naples, III, models of mounds ; also series of grooved anj| 



MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS 315 

uiigrooved adzes from Alaska, Washington, Oregon and Cali- 
fornia. 12. Synoptic Series oi the Grooved Ax, eastern U, S. 
13. Ancient textiles from caves in Morgan Co.. Tenn., also 
wooden carvings from Unga Island, Alaska. 14. Synoptic 
Series oil Hammer-stones, eastern U. S. 15. Stoiie imple- 
ments from various Pueblo tow^ns and ruined sites. 16. Stone 
implements from arid region of Colorado, Arizona, etc. 
17. Specimens oi ancient pottery of the Pueblo region. 

East Winig continued: West Wall Cases. (iHere, as on 
the Main Floor, the side aisle is divided at each pillar into 
alcoves, each alcove containing 6 or more cases. While the 
abundance of these exhibits delights the specialist, there is 
so much repetition that the average visitor will care only 
for a few of the more striking objects here, noted,. The num-" 
bers refer to the alcoves and not to the separate cases. 
I. Antiquities of Arizona : note especially *Model of Cliflf 
Dwelling, "Mummy Cave Ruin," so named from mummy of 
•an infant found there ; situated in Canyon del Muerto. North- 
east Arizona ; modeled by Cosmo Mindelcff ; Model oif Com- 
pound A, Casa Grande Ruins, Pinal Co., Ariz, ; also Antiqui- 
[ies of Little Colorado River region, chiefly from collection 
oi Dr. J. Walter Fezvkes. 2. Arizona continued : Pottery 
(ind implements from cliff dwellings ; Comprehensive model 
>i)f Casa Grande Ruins, (Compounds A, B, C and D), dis- 
tovered by the Jesuit father, Eusebio FranciscO' Kino in 1694. 
|. Arizona continued: Note especially large assortment of 
•eliigious oibjects from Bear Creek Cave, Graham Co., sug- 
gesting that this was a spot of peculiar sacredness. 4. Antiqui- 
ies of the Southwest, chiefly from California, 5. Antiquities 
if Pacific States : not especially *Aboriginal Soapstone Quarry 
jroup. s'howing man with stone pick cutting out a roundish 
nass of soapstone, while woman with rude chisel roughs out 
[ I glo'bular pot. 6. Pacific Coast continued : Note wood 
lijarvings from burial cave, Delaroff Hair'bor, Alaska. 
[,i. Southeast Alaska: Tools and household implements of 
one, stone, slate, etc. Note at corner of North Range large 
tone Image, from Easter Island (in S. Pacific Ocean, 2000 

from any other inhabited land). 

North Range: Sbuth Wall Cases (E. to W.) : Alcove i. 
ntiquities from Obsidian (volcanic class) Mines of Mexico: 
Antiquities of West Indies; A. Stone Collars: B. Tri- 
binted Idols: C. Maskettes of Stone; D, Pentaloid Celts; 
vlcove 2. West Indies continued : Celts and chisels ; Antiqui- 
les of Porto Rico, pottery and beadwork; Alcove 3. Santo 
'omingo: terra,-icotta; vessels plates for grinding cassava; 






3i6 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Miscellaneous collection from caves and prehistoric village 
sites in Aleutian Islands; Alcove 4. Relics of Hunter tribes 
of Kansas ; Antiquities of Ohio and of Hawaii ; Alcove 5. 
Antiquities of Texas ; Colonial Relics of European manufac- 
ture, found in Indian graves ; Alcove 6. Collection illustrat- 
ing the manufacture of Hatchet-blades ; Collection of Archae- 
ological Relics of the District of Columbia; Alcove 7. Antiqui- 
ties of Costa Rica and California. 

North Hall/ East Aisle: American Archaeology con- 
timied; Antiquities of Mexico, Central and South America. 
A large part of this collection necessarily consists of casti 
and models, reproducing famous ruins and prehistoric art 
treasures which have not been permitted to leave their native 
countries. The plaster casts are mostly from sculptures pre- 
served in the National Museum at Mexico City. The models 
of temples and other ancient buildings, on a scale of 1/24 
original size, were all made under thd direction of W. H, 
Holmes, by De Lanccy Gill, architect, H. IV. Hendley and W. 
H. Gill, sculptors. 

Central Exhibits (N. to S.) : i. Commemorative Stonel 
of Tizoc (plaster cast), a huge disc with calendar marksl 
and other sculptures, sometimes called the "Sacrificial Stone" 
(dug up in the principal plaza of Mexico City) ; 2. Reduced! 
model of the "The Castle," in ancient city of Chichen-Itzi,! 
Yucatan. This is the best preserved of the several pyramid; 
temples of that city. The pyramid is 190 ft. sq. at base, 6r 
ft. sq. at summit and 80 ft. high. The temple measures 
44x48 ft. ; 3. Chac-Mool, reclining human figure, heroic size, 
found at Chichen-Itza (the name signifies "Tiger," and w: 
given because the figure was found near the Temple of Tigers ) 

4. Colossal figure of Aztec deity from ancient City of Mexico 

The complicated carvings of this huge sculpture apparently repre 
sent a standing human figure, but the human elements are dominatet 
by those of serpents and monsters. The opposite fronts are supposef 
to symbolize respectively Teoyaomiqui, Goddess of Death, and Huitzilc 
pochtli, Goddess of War, the whole being symbolic of the hideous 
religious beliefs of the Aztecs, involving ruthless human sacrifices. ThI 
visitor should compare this exhibit with the much finer specimen a 
Maya art. No. 9, below. 

5. Model of ruined temple of Xochicalco ("Hill of Flowers")| 
situated 40 miles S. of Mexico City. 6. Model of "The Palace* 
at Mitla, Mexico; 7. *Colossal figure of a Maya Deity (plaste 
cast), from ruined city of Quirigua, Guatemala; 8. Reduce 
model of "The House of the Governor," one of the chiel 
surviving structures in the ruined city of Uxmal, Yucatani 

9-16. Case Exhibits: 9. Antiques of Mexico: froi 
Nahvartl, Vallev of Mexico. Terra-cotta stamps and mould! 



MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS 3i7 

spindle-whorls images, etc. ; lo. Central and South America ; 
Carved amulets, beads, pendants, etc., of jade and other semi- 
precious stones. II. Antiquities of Patagonia: Stone imple- 
ments, flints, scrapers, arrow-points, etc., mainly from Rio 
Negro District ; also earthenware effigy vessels from Manizales, 
Colombia; (C A. Pope Collection.) 12. Antiquities of Chile: 
^Primitive mining implements found in the Restauradora 
Mine in iSgg. 

The most important feature of this find was the desiccated body of 
a prehistoric miner, who apparently had been accidentally caught and 
crushed by a cave-m of earth and stone. This body, curiously pre- 
served from decay because impregnated with copper salts, is now ex- 
hibited in the American Museum of Natural History, N. Y. C. (see 
Rider's New York City, p. 296). 

■ (b.) Antiquities of Ecuador and Bolivia : Note espe- 
:i'ally *Ancient silver image from ruins O'U island in Lake 
Titicaca, Bolivia; (c.) Antiquities of Venezuela; 13. An- 
:iquitities of Peru : pottery, vessels, stone implements and 
jtensils, bronze and copper articles, breastpins, beads, etc. ; 
[4. Peru continued. *Mummy of a child from grave near 
Ancon, Peru ; Another child mummy ; aprons, belts, ponchos, 
ptc. 

i| This case also contains textiles, pottery and copper implements from 
ipre-Columbian Haucas (or mounds) and cemeteries in the Valley of 
;)hicama. 

(^ 15. *Feathered Ponchos or Indian capes. Two speci- 
nens consisting of feathers sewed upon woven fabric, and 
orming elaborate patterns in vivid colors. These are ranked 
mong the finest specimens of itheir kind. Gift of Dr. A. 
ilrdlicka. 

f At South end of Aisle : i. Temple doorway in Chichen- 
iltza, Yucatan; 2. Portion of Interior Wall and sloping ceiling 
v,f a ceremonial chamber in the principal temple of the tennis 
purt or gymnasium in wbat is known as the "Temple of 
',||ie Jaguars" (so-called because of the line of Jaguars form- 
ig a frieze around the exterior). 

'1 East zvall (S. to N.) : i. Section of a column from Chichen-Itza 
cast) ; 2. Model of the Temple of the Cross, Palenque, State of 
hiapas, Southern Mexico; 3. Antiquities of Argentina; 4. Costa Rican 
ntiquities; 5. Antiquities of Brazil; 6. Rica, idols, etc.; 7. *Antiquities 
Nicaragua: pottery with curious decorations of snakes, frogs and 
zards; 8. Costa Rica continued : 9. Ancient Mexican sculptures (plaster 
csimilies) : Aztec deities including: Serpent Deity, Goddess of Fertility, 
oddess of Water, etc.; 10. Costa Rica continued; 11. *Habitat group, 
lowing two Indian stone-cutters eanployed respectively in dressing a 
luare block, and ornamenting one side with sculptures; 12. Costa 
ica continiied; 13. Mexican sculptures continued: coiled teatherede 
rpent, stone yokes, etc.; 14. Costa Rica: stone idols continued : is-i?-. 
ntiquities of Mexico continued : Note especially figure of Centeotl, 
Dddess of Maize. 



3i8 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

North End Case: Prehistoric musical instrvuiients, inclu'dinu 
specimens from ^lexico, Central and South America, pottery rattles, 
whistling bottles and vases (from graves), flageolets and pan-pipes (oi 
stone, reed, bone and pottery). 

West Wall (N., to S.) Cases i and 2. Mexican antiquities. 
Between these cases is a facsimile of the great Calendar Stone. 1 1 ft. 
2 in. in diameter, found on the site of the present Cathedral of Mexico, 
formerly occupied by the Aztec Teocalli Temple, destroyed by the 
Spanish conquerors. Beyond, occupying the greater part of the western 
wall, are two long cases of five divisions each, containing antiquities of: 
a. Mexico (States of Chihuahua, Jalisco, Oaxaca, etc); b. Guatemala; 
c. Honduras; d. Nicaragua; e. Costa Rica; f. Panama; g. Peru; h. 
Argentina. Note especially the elaborate and grotesque Oaxaca idols anl 
Nicaragua painted pottery. Affixed to the wall are numerous plaster casts 
of sculptured panels, etc. The most noteworthy is a dark red panel at 
S. E, cor., being an altar^ panel from the ancient Maya Temple of the 
Sun, at Tikal. Guatemala. 

North Hall. Wc si em Aisle: Antiquities of Europe, x\sij 
and Africa. South End: Plaster casts of classic sculptures 
I. The Laocoon (original in Vatican) ; 2. Hermes (from the 
Island of Andros) ; 3. The Fates (E. Pediment of the Parthe- 
non) ; 4. Model of the Parthenon. 

East Wall Cases; (S. to N.) : i. Mediterranean An- 
tiques, casts of Greek and Roman sculptures; 2. Italiar 
potteries: vases, jugs and bowls; 3 and 4. Anf'quities of West 
ern Asia: (Hebrew, Syrian, etc.) : The Bible in Latin, Greek 
Turkish, Korean, etc.; also copy of "The Life and Moral 
of Jesus of Nazareth," compiled by Thomas Jefferson ii 
1804, together with the two copies of the English Ne\\| 
Testament from which Jefiferson took his cHpping; musics 
instruments mentioned in the Bible; costumes of Palestiii- 
and Syria ; ornaments and utensils ; coins mentioned in tli'i 
Bible (Hebrew, Persian, Greek and Roman) ; Prec'ous stonei 
mentioned in the Bible; 5. Assyrian and Babylonian Antiqi 
uities : Plaster casts of bas-reliefs, etc. *, 6. Antiquities oij 
Egypt : sculptures, natural products, Egyptian textile artj 
modern Eg3ptian bricks ; agricultural products, cotton, sugar 
cane and wheat; Egyptian sculptures (casts), funeral con 
and fragments of mummied animals ; 7. Egypt continttcc 
Mortuary relics, mummy cloth, etc. 

West Aisle continued; Central cases (N". to S.) : Case 
Greek, Roman and Etruscan Pottery; Case 2. Collection o 
Roman Bronzes and Glass-ware, lent by Thomas NelsQ 
Page ; Case 3. Greek and Roman Pottery and Bronzes cofil 
tinned: Case 4. EgA'-ptian Antiquities, necklaces and figurinosi| 
Mummied cat; Case 5. Roman and Etruscan terra cottj 
figurines (lent by Mrs. E. A. H. Magrndcr) ; Case 6. Ancieji 
coins : Greek, Roman, Syrian and Armenian Case 7. Roman ar| 
Etruscan fish-hooks, surgical and dental instruments, awlj 



MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS 319 

bodkms, needles, razors and bronze household articles ; Case 8. 
Germany, Stone Age: Flake knives; roughly chipped celts; 
partly pO'lished celts ; flint daggers ; ax hammers, etc. Case 9. 
Miscellaneous bronzes : celts, daggers and sickles from: Hun- 
gary, Italy, Germany, Switzerland (Lake Dwellers), Sweden 
and England ; Case 10. East Africa, Somaliland : Implements 
of flint and quartz collected and presented by Sir H. W. Seton- 
Karr; Case 11. Antiquities of Ancient Troy: Collection of 
pre-historic objects found at Hissarlik, the site of ancient 
Troy, by Dr. Henry Schliemann during the years of 1870-82. 
Presented by Mrs. Schliemann. Also collection of Armenian 
antiquities from the ancient necropolis of Monci-yeri, ne'ir 
A.llahverdi in the Caucasus; Case 12. A. Africa, Stone Age: 
Stone implements and fragments of pottery, collected mainly 
from Kitchen-middens and caves of Cape Colony; B. Egypt 
md Palestine Stone Age : Antiquities from Wady El-Shiekh ' 
md from tomb of Osiris at Abydos ; Case 13. Model of a 
Swiss Lake Dwelling settlement; Cases 14-15. Stone Age in 
^apan, Korea, Australia and Tasmania; Case 16. Antiquities 
;)f Asia ; India, Indo-China and Cmbodia ; collection of chipped 
mplements found by A. C. Carlyle, of the Arch^ological Sur- 
tey, in the caves and rock shelters of the Vindhva Hills, Cen- 
ra India; collection of objects from Kitchen-middens on the 
hores of Lake Ton-le-Sap, by Prof. L. H. James. 

i West Wall Cases (S. to N.) : i. Stone Age implements 
toni Denmark, Sweden and Norway. 2. Antiquities found in 
)anish Kitchen-middens. 3-4. Antiquities from the Lake- 
i) welling period in Switzerland (Neolithic Age). 5. Stone- 
Vge in Belgium: Bones, animal skulls, celts, axes, flint 
^nives and other relics. 6. Mesvinuan and Strepijan Arti- 
acts: Nodules and flakes of flint or brown chert, adapted 
) the purpose of hammering, cutting, etc. 7. Dolmen 
ieposits in France, Neolithic period. 8. Art works of the 
!tone Age: Casts of sculptured and engraved horns. 9. France 
ontimied: Fragments of implements from caverns illustrate 
'lig the arts of the Paleolithic period. 10. Stone Age in 
ingland: Flakes, gun-flints, etc. made at Brandon, 'Suffolk. 
:. Arrowheads, chisels^ knives, flakes, celts and scrapers 
|om England and Ireland, iNeolithic Period. 12. Ancient 
joins, Roman, Persian, Macedonian, etc. 13. England con- 
wed: flint implements and other relics of the Paleolithic 
jiriod, including a number of Eoliths, believed to be the 
^irliest known attempts of man at tool-making. 14. Coins, 
)ttery and other antiquities from Egypt and Italy. 15. Pre- 
storic Antiquities from the Terremare settlements in Italy 2: 



320 ' RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

arrowhead flint implements, etc. i6. Roman and Etruscan 
Antiquities. 17. Turkestan : collection oif potteries and tiles 
dating from the 12th and 13th centuries. 18. Potteries from 
Greece and Italy, including much Italian Black-ware and 
Arretine pottery. 

North Central Pavilion: Antiquities of Egypt, Assyria 
and Palestine (Unless otherwise stated these exhibits are 
plaster reproductions) : 

South IV dl (W. to E.) : i. Statue of the God Hadad, 
with inscription in old Aramaean. Erected in North Syria by 
Panammu II (see exhibit 9 below) ; 2. Stele of Sargon 11, 
King of Assyna 709-05 B. C. (father of Sennacherib). The 
original Stele was found in 1845 on the Island of (Cypress , 

3. Human-headed, winged bull, found on site of Ninevah in 
1846, by Sir Austin H. Layard (original in British museum) ; 

4. Lid of sarcophagus of Sebaski, an Egyptian priest of about 
700 B. C, Rosetta Stone; 5. Babylonian code of Hammurabi 
The original was found 1901-02 in the ancient city of Susa (tlu 
Shushan of the Bible). The compiler of these laws is identifiic 
with Amraphel, mentioned in Genesis (Gen. XIV, 9), a con- 
temporary of Abraham. Consequently, this code is 1000 yean 
older than the Hebrew Pentatuch ; 6. Human-headed, winged 
Jion from Ninevah, Layard Expedition (see above exhibit 3.) : 

7. Horus, Egyptian god, personification of the Morning Sun- 

8. Hopi, Egyptian god of the Nile; 9. Torso of Panammu III 
found at Senjirli. Asia Minor (a King who held sway in the; 
country of the Hittites in the 8th century B. C). The in- 
scription consists of 23 lines in old Aramaean, constituting om! 
of the oldest existing specimens of that language. 

East Wall Case: Mortuary Customs of Ancient Egyp 
(coffins and mortuary boxes). 

Central Exhibits (E. to \\\) : i. Egyptian Mummy o 
Luexor, 1886. gift of Hon. S. S. Cox, then U. S. Minister t( 
Turkey. 2. Relief map of Palestine ; 3. Cast of ancient Siloam 
recording the o^^ening of tihe Pool of Siloam by King Heze 
kiah; 4. Reproduction of a Greek Inscription from the Tempi 
of Jerusalem; 5. Cast of Obelisk of Shalmanesor II. Kinj 
of Assyria; 6. Aloabite Stone (original in Louvre); 7. Roma; 
Mosaic, Lion attacking a Wild Ass. 

This exhibit is practically the only remnant of an elaborate mof^ai 
flooring in the Temple of Astarte, Carthage. It was rescued by Si' 
Richard Wood, the British Consul General to Tunis, exhibited at th' 
Philadelphia Centennial Exposition, and presented by him to the Smitr 
sonian Institution. 

8. Cast of Statue of Queen Amenerdas (about 720 B. C.) 

9. Cast of Statue of Chepeen, third King of 4th Dynast3(i 



MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS 321 

3666 B. C. ; 10. Medeba Mosaic Map (colored drawing of 
Palestine, from floor in old church in Medeba, in what was 
formerly Moab). 11-12. Two cases holding Egyptian antiq- 
uities : Book of the Dead, papyri, Greco-Egyptian portrait, 
etc.; 13. Wall case, containing coffins and canopus jars. 

Central Exhibits continued: East Range (N. to S.) : 
I. and Dolphins: Central exhibits: i. Life-size Model of 
Sulphurbottom Whale. Balcenoptera miis cuius .{Linn.) from 
Newfoundland coast length, 78 ft.; 2. Gray Whale, Rhachi- 
ancctcs glaucus {Cope) reduced model; 3. Skeleton' of com- 
mon Fniback Whale, Balaenoptera phvsalus {Linn.); 4. Skel- 
eton of Little Piked Whale, B. acufo-rostrata {Lacepede) ; 
5. Humpback Whale, Me.::aptera nodosa (skeleton and one- 
half model, split lengthwise) ; 6. Skeleton of Sulphurbottom 
Whale; (total length, 7s ft.; skull. 19 ft. 6 in.); 6. Skull 
of Killer Whale, Orcinus orva {Linn.); 7. Skull of Baird's 
Whale, Berardius Bcrardi; 8. Skull of Humpback Whale, 
Megoptera longimana ; 9. North Atlantic Rig^ht Whale, 
Bal?ena glacialis (Bonnaterre). 

North Wall (E. to W^) : Case i. Models of Whales 
and Porpoises, 10 species; Case 2. Skeletons of Whales and 
Porpoises, nine species; Case 3- Skeletons, continued: four 
species. 

This aisle also contains at present (1922) a number of 
additional exhibits temporarily transferred from the North- 
west range. These include : L Fauna of the District of 
Columbia (note especially the collection of Washington 
Birds, in 14 cases) ; II. General Entomological Collection 
(along tS. side of aisle; note especially the tropical Lepi- 
ioptcra. Butterflies of India, Borneo, Siam, Java, Philippines 
find iSouth America) ; III. *The J. P. Iddings Collection 
)F Butterflies and Moths, consisting of about 2500 named 
pecies, presented in 1921 by the heirs of Dr. Iddings. 
1^ Sonthivest Pavilion: Zoology continued; Reptiles and 
Mshes. Most of these exhibits are skilful and accurate 
.hodels of originals. Note, however, among central cases, 
■■^ collection of *Tropical Fish in tanks of preserving fluid ; 
|11 the original vivid coloring has been retained. Note 
jSpecially the following: Rock Beautv, Holocanthus tricolor 
scarlet, yellow and black) ; "Pa Kul Kui," Tenthis achilles 
haw, Hawa'i (black, scarlet and blue) ; "Kihi-ki'hi," Zanclus 
'^nesccns Linn (wihite, black and blue) ; Portuguese Butter- 
jy, Chaeto'don striafus Linn (pale blue and lemon). 
J Southwest Pavilion, North End. and North Aisle of West 
png: Comparative Anatomy. The greater part of this 



Z22 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

exhibit consists of a systematic collection of the skeletons of 
Mammals, Birds, Reptiles and Fishes. 

The Western Section oif the North Range is temporarily 
closed to the public. 

IV. The Smithsonian Institution — The Arts and 
Industries Building 

{The "Old'' National Museum) 

West of the Army Medical Museum, between 9th and 
loth Sts., stands the rectangular and somewhat ungainly 
structure constituting the Arts and Industries Building of 
the National Museum, popularly known as the "Old Na- 
tional Museum." 

The Museum is open daily, except Sunday, from 9 a. m. 
to 4.30 p. m. There is a small luncheon room situated at the 
extreme end of the E. wing : good and economical. Lavatories 
in S. E. corner of Museum. 

History. The National Museum traces its origin to a society organ- 
ized in Washington in 1840 under the title of the "National Institute," 
the object of which included the administration of the Smithsonian be- 
quest, and the bringing together of collections of Natural Hi;stor\-, 
Ethnology and kindred subjects, for the purpose of forming a general 
museum. Congress granted temporary quarters in the Patent Office: 
and here for some years was housed the nucleus of the collection, con- 1 
ststing of miscellaneous "Curiosities" acquired: i. By gift of ■ 
Foreign Powers to the United States; 2. Sent home by American 
Consuls resident abroad; 3. Presented by Naval Officers. These col- ( 
lections were subsequently transferred to the building of the Smith- * 
sonian Institution, under whose auspices the establishment of a Na- \ 
tional Museum had been authorized by act of Congress in 1846 {| 
(V- 255); and as yea.r by year the bulk of the collection augmented, j| 
the Institution found itself seriously cramped for space. In 1876 camC; 
the Centennial Exhibition at Philadelphia, from which so large a col-j 
lection of valuable articles was acquired by gift to the United States! 
through the Smithsonian Institution, that they had to be stored in the| 
so-called Armory Building, now occupied by the Fish Commission j| 
(p. 245). 

Prof. Joseph Henry in a letter dated Oct. 8th, 1877, brought 
to the attention of Pres. Hayes the urgent necessity of a new structure 
to house these additional and valuable exhibits. Accordingly the Presi- 
dent in his message recommended that an adequate appropriation should 
be made for the establishment and maintenance of a National Museum. 

When the matter was taken up by Congress, it was found that a 
Museum building worthy to rank among the permanent structures ot 
the National Capital could not be erected under a million dollars: 
but that a fairly spacious exhibition building, fairly fireproof and largt 
enough to house the growing collections for some years to come, migh' 
be erected for a quarter of that sum. Accordingly $250,000 was appro, 
priated for the purpose. 

This first Museum building, completed in 1881. was ar 
attempt so far as the funds would allow, to achieve a sor 
of modernized Romanesque style of architecture, in orde;i| 



OLD NATIONAL MUSEUM 



323 






NX 




GRAPHIC ARTS. 



NAVAL ,■ t5RAPHir. ARTS ! ■ ■ ETHNOLOGY: ( ETHNOLOGY 

I* * NOTTH WEST COyHT. ^ IWHTrtWtST RANG 

,1 ''• i ■ « '^"- t ''^^ 

'1 i MrtRTM MA! I ; ESKIMO, 

ARCHITECTURE J GALLERY : CERAMICS I I "OKrnMAcL, ^ PUEBLO REGION, y ^ ^ ^^^g^g 



NORTH EAST RANCt!( NORTH EAST COURt 
XK. i 




CATLIN COLLECTION 
WEST NORTH RANGE. 

xq. 

EASTERN AND GREAT 
PLAINS TRIBES. 



OKOUNO - PLAM. 




//ORTHvVESJ-pAVlLIOf/ 
<?X 



MAIN ENTRANCE. 



324 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

to harmonize with the Norman st^le of the original Smith- 
sonian building, — no easy task when confined to brick, iron 
and slate as materials (Cluss and Schidzc, architects). 

The resultant structure is a square building of a single 
story in height, covering in all about an acre and a half of 
ground. It consists of four large naves and central rotunda 
forming a Greek cross, with ranges and covered courts filling 
the corners. 

The central rotunda is octagonal below^ with a diameter 
of 65 ft., surmounted by a sixteen sided polygon, and cov- 
ered by a slate roof rising to a central lantern, with a total 
height of 108 ft. 

The main entrance is on the Mall, in the center of the 
N. facade. It consists of a tall, arched framework of Ohio 
sandstone surmounted by a pediment with sculptured group 
representing, "Columbia as Protectress of Science and In- 
dustry" (C Bubcrl, N. Y.. sculptor). 

The first use to which the then newly finished building was put' 
was for the Inaugural Reception of President Garfield, March 4th, 1881.J 

There is no general official guide-book to the collections in this 
building. A special catalog of the Historical Costumes Exhibit (p. 331) 
is on sale at the curio stand in the Rotunda, price soc. | 

Main Floor, North Wing: United States History. Thesej 
exhibits are contained in wall-cases and in four rows oit| 
center-cases, two rows on each side of the main aisle. ThCj 
following description starts with the W. center row, fron-| 
N. to S., returning by the W. side row, then crossing to thcj 
E. center row. returning by E. side row and leaving the cir j 
cuit of the wall-cases for the last. 

The visitor should note above the main entrance, a large allegories ^ 
mosaic, designed by Bracquecand, and made by Haviland aniT Com 
pany, Limoges, France. It consists of 900 tiles of Limoges Faience^ 
and depicts. "The Genius of Man dominating and utilizing Fire anc; 
Water. In the right hand the figure holds a casting in bronze. It^ 
the left a beaut'ful vase. The service of these elements in trans 1 
portation and in turning the wheels of industry is shown by a loco( 
motive and group of factories." The mosaic measures 15 ft. 4 in. b;j 
II ft. 5 in. It was displayed in Philadelphia at the Centennial Ex,' 
h'.bition in 1876, and presented to the United States by the makers. 

West Central Aisle: Case i. Abraham Lincoln: Conij 
tents include plaster face-mask of Lincoln made in Apri' 
i860, and bronze casting from it; also plaster molds of Lin 
coin's hands with bronze castings ; both by Leonard IV. Volk 
Case 2. Ulysses S. Grant: a. (upper section). *Cotlectio: 
of ancient Japanese gold coins presented to Gen. Grant h 
1880. by the Japanese Government, in return for a thorough 
bred horse given to the Emperor ; also numerous gol( 
medals; *Ivory-handled silver trowel, used by Pres. Graii 



OLD NATIONAL MUSEUM 325 

in 'laying the cornerstone of the American Museum of Nat- 
ural History, N. Y., June 4th, 1874; b. (lower section) 
Elephant's tusks, gift of the King of Siam. Case 3. Grant 
Collection continued: a. Gold and silver caskets presented 
to Gen. Grant by various cities of Great Britain and Ireland, 
with enclosed "Certificates of Freedom" (the certificates are 
now displayed in N. W. Range) ; porcelains presented to 
Grant in China, 1879; b. Bound copies of Addresses of 
Welcome and other speeches in honor of Gen. Grant. Case 
4. William Tccnmseh Sherman: a. Uniforms, Shako and 
epaulets worn by Sherman in 1842 and 1869 ; service swords ; 
medals and badges ; b. Commissions to the various military 
ranks held by Sherman (exhibit disadvantageously placed) ; 
Case 5. Judson Kilpatrick : a. Silver service presented by 
the Veterans' Association of Connecticut, to Major-General 
Kilpatrick in recognition of his services during the Civil 
War; b. leather saddle, etc.; Case 6. Myers-Mason Collec- 
tion : Family Heirlooms, consisting of historical costumes, 
ornaments of personal wear and articles of the toilet used 
by the family during the years 1812-1900. Case 7. Samuel 
F. B. Morse: Portrait of Morse by Edward L. Morse; ex- 
hibits showing the early development of the telegraph. Case 8, 
Joseph Henry: a. Specimens of electric apparatus; a copy 
of portrait of Prof. Henry embodied in bronze tablet, de- 
signed by Augustus Saint-Gaudens for the Chapel at Prince- 
ton University; b. Pictures illustrating Prof. Henry's dis- 
coveries and inventions. Case 9. Cyrus U\ Field: a. Specimens 
'of telegraph caibles laid across the Atlantic, 1.858, 1865 and 1866 ; 
also model of grapnel used m raising cables ; Field's walking 
stick made fromi wood of the Great Eastern, ibroken up in 
[890; Portrait of Field, by Daniel Huntington: b. Pennant 
{32 ft. long) used on the Great Eastern and other steamers 
vvhile engaged in laying cables across the Atlantic, 1857-66. 
,3ase 10. W infield Scott Schley: a. (jold medals incrusted 
vith diamonds and enamel ; Masonic apron of lambskin and 
plue silk; naval service uniform and cap; canes and swords 
^presented to Schley; b. Section of steel armor plate from 
(/. S. Brooklyn, damaged by shell in battle of Santiago, July 
i;d. 1898; canes, swords, etc. Case 11. David Glasgozv Far- 
\agut: Service uniform and cap; tw^o pairs of epaulets; 
Jewelled sword; water-color o\i the Farragut coat-O'f-arms ; 
hotographs of Farragut's ships, the U. S. S. Franklin, etc. 
\\ West side Row (S. to N.) : Case i.Rear Admiral Andrezv 
\\{. Foote, U. S. N.: Naval uniform, epaulets and shoulder 
J traps ; spurs, steel bayonet and Mexican dirk ; Miscellaneous 



326 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

articles found in the snow, belonging to Lieut. Commander 
De Long and his men on the Polar Expedition of 1881. Case 
2. Schley Exhibits continued: a. Silver service made of Spanish 
coins recovered from the Cristobal Colon, sunk in the battle 
off Santiago de Culba, July 3d, 1898, etc. ; h. medals and silver 
loving-cups. Case 3. Cyrus W. Field: Terrestrial globe used 
by Field and his associates in selecting the first cable route; 
specimens of cables. Case 4. *The Appomattox Chair, upon 
v^'hich it is said Gen. Grant sat when he wrote and signed the 
articles of capitulation of the Confederate army, at Appomat- 
tox Court House, Virginia, April 9th, 1865 ; also *Chair in the 
McLean house at Appomattox Court House, Virginia, April 
9th, 1865, and used by Gen. Robert E. Lee when writing the 
note accepting the terms proposed by Gen. Grant for the sur- 
render oif the army oif Northern Virginia. Case 5. Miscel- 
laneous collection of Civil W'ar period, including: gold medal 
presented to Col. E. E. Ellsworth at the Marshall House, 
Alexandria, Va., May 24, 1861 ; also scarf pin he was wearing 
when killed; uniform worn by Lieut. Charles R. Carville, 
including sword, scahbard and epaulets. Case 6. Judson Kil- 
patrick: Gilded hust of Major-General Kilpatrick, U. S. 
Volunteers, and Minister to Chile, 1865-68; glassware, china, 
etc. ; also uniforms worn by him. Case 7. George Brinton 
McClellan: Uniform, chapeau, gauntlets, silver spurs, gold 
and jewelled sword presented b}- the city of Philadelphia, ! 
other swords carried by McClellan ; dress saddle cloth, 
revolvers, belts, etc. Case 8. Frederick D. Grant: a Uniform, 
service swords, shoulder straps and sashes worn by Major- 
General Grant, h. Saddle owned by Major-General Grant, and 
used on his horse at his funeral ; high military boots, etc. 
Cases 10 and 11. Ulysses S. Grant: a. Cloisonne vases pre- 
sented at Tientsin, China, June, 1879, by Viceroy Li-Hung- 1 
Chang; Uniform coat of the rank of Lieut.-General ; swords,! 
canes, etc. b. Japanese embroidered picture, presented by the 
citizens of Japan. Gifts presented to Gen. and Mrs. Grant 
during their trip around the world, including a lacquered 
cabinet, a gift from the Empress of Japan, and said to be 
1000 years old; b. Saddle used iby Gen. Grant in all the battlesi 
from Feb., 1862, to April, 1865; Case 11. Marble bust of 
IVilliuui H. Sezmrd, by Giavanni Maria Bensoni. Case 12. 
Cast from Death-Mask of President McKinley by E. L. A. 
Pausch, N. Y., Sept., 1901. The original mask was destroyed] 
after this cast was made. 1 

East Central Row (N. to S.) : Case i. Awards of*i 
Honor and Merit: *Glass epergne decorated with silver and;i 



OLD NATIONAL MUSEUM 2,27 

gilt design, given as grand prize of the International Exhibi- 
tion, Berlin, 1880, presented to Spencer A. Baird, United 
States Commissiioner of Fish and Fisheries; *Replica of 
vase presented to William CuUen Bryant on his 80th birth- 
day (designed by James H. Whitehouse) ; miscellaneous 
medals, etc.; Case 2. Discovery of the North Pole: (medals 
and other tributes to Robert Edwin Peary) ; *Peary Arctic 
Club Medal of Honor, being the first and only award of 
this medal (the five metallic points of the star are from 
Ahnighito meteorite brought from Cape York by Peary in 
1897) ; Peace Flag, presented to Peary by the Daughters of 
the Revolution and displayed by him at the North Pole, 
April 6th, 1909; also numerous medals, loving-cups, etc., in- 
cluding the Cullum gold medal of the American Geographi- 
cal Society (first impression and first award) ; Cases 3 and 4. 
Colonial Period: Loan collection of the National Society of 
Colonial Dames ; Case 5. Loan collection of the National Society 
of the Daughters of the Revolution ; Case 6. Miscellaneous 
exhibits, including silver tea service owned by Laura Wol- 
cott, daughter of Oliver Wolcott, signer of the Declaration of 
Independence; Case 7. IV infield Scott Hancock: Swords, regi- 
mentals, walking sticks ; Case 8. Naval Relics : Uniforms, 
swords, etc., belonging to Admiral David H. Porter, Rear 
Adm. John W. Philip, etc. ; fatigue cap and coat of (Captain 
Charles B. Gridle}^, Commanding officer of the flag-ship 
Olympia, battle of Manila Bay, May ist. 1898; Case 9. 
Miscellaneous collection : Relics, epaulets, swords, uniforms, 
etc., of various army and navy officers. Case 10. Relics of 
Prof. Samuel P. Langley ; Case 11. Awards and Honors 
bestowed upon Prof. Simon Newcomib in recognition of his 
' services in Astronomy (note especially the badge of the French 
Legion of Honor, with rank of Commandeur) ; Newcomb's 
1 uniform as Professor of Mathematics to the U. S. Navy 
j (with rank of Rear-Admiral). 

.| ■ East Row (S. to N.) : Case i. Capron Family: Sword 
1 and spurs of Capt. Allyn Capron ; shoulder knots, cavalry 
helmet, etc. Case 2. Confederate Relics • Uniforms and 
swords, bronze bust of Col. John S. Mosby, by Edzvord V. 
I Valentine. Case 3. Miscellaneous Relics of Gen. Thomas 
Swords, U. S. A.,, during Civil War period ajid earlier. 
Caise 4. Miscellaneous collection including swords of Maj. 
Gen. Alexander AldComb, Commander in Chief, U. S A., 
1828-41. Case 5- Printing press used by Benjamin Franklin 
,when a journeyman printer in London, 1725-26; Case 6. 
Period of the War with Spain : ^Steering wheel from Bat- 



328 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

tleship Maine; blue and white plates and saucers, wine glasses 
and other relics recovered from Maine; Spanish chair from 
Alorro Castle, Havana. Case 7. Loan collection of the 
Daughters of the American Revolution; Case 8. Memorials 
of the Bradford Family. Case 9. Loan collection of the 
Colonial Dames of America, including silver urn made by 
Paul Revere. Case 10. Swords and scabbards of Gen. George 
W. Morgan during War with Mexico. Case 11. China tea 
set owned hy Col. Philip Marstcller, a pall bearer at Wash- 
ington's funeral ; two statuette groups purchased in Paris by 
Gouverneur Morris. 

Wall Exhibits, beginning on E. Wall from N. to S. : 
Case I. Mahogany secretary owned by Brig, Gen. Rufus 
Putnam. Case 2. Bronze inkstand with candlestick, snuffer 
and blotting sand, owned by Harvard University during presi- 
dency of Josiah Quincy, Edward Everett, Jared Sparks, James 
Walker, Cornelius Felton, Thomas Hill and Charles W. 
Elliot. Case 3. Furniture and portraits of early 19th cen- 
tury : mahogany chest presented to George Washington by his 
brother Lawrence ; child's dressing table presented by Gen. 
Lafayette to Martha Custis, granddaughter of Mrs. Washing- 
ton ; leather-ibacked chair and drawing room screen owne.l 
by W^ashington in New York and Philadelphia, and later 
at Mt. Vernon. Case 4. Arm-chair owned by Gen. Lafa3Ttte 
and used by him on the day of his deaths May 20, 1834; walk- 
ing stick presented by Jefferson to Dr. Joseph Priestley, dis- 
coverer of oxygen ; scimitar presented to Jefferson by the 
Su'ltan of Morocco. Marble-top table owned by JeffersO!i 
at Monticello. Case 5. Early American chairs ; side-table 
owned by Alexander Hamilton; chairs owned by Maj. Gen. 
Philip Schuyler ; arm-chair owned by Commodore Joshua 
Barney, Continental Navy. Case 6. Rosewood chairs owned 
by Chief Justice John Marshall ; mahogany chair owned by 
James Madison; rocking-chair owned bv Henry Clay, 

South Wall Cases: i. Alodel of MayfJowcr. 2. America 1 
flag made in Scotland by five Scotch girls and used at fun- 
erals of American soldiers lost on transport Tuscania. 3. Jasper 
\a.se presented to Simon Newcomb by Alexander IH of 
Russia. 4. (W. oif door) George W, Custer relics, includin* 
a buckskin coat worn by Custer in campaign against the 
Sioux ; 5. War with 'Spain : The stern ornament of the j 
Colon ; 6. Ancient pieces of masonry from the Wall of i! 
Servius Tullius, presented to the United States in 1912 to ! 
replace a vsimilar block sent in i86.n, after the assassination ', 
of Pres. Lincoln and lost in transit. It bears a memorial 
inscription in Latin. 



OLD NATIONAL MUSEUM 329 

West Wall Cases: 1. Case containing early 19th century 
furniture, chairs, sofas, andirons, etc. ; also two portraits 
by Charles Wilson Peale (dated 1792) of Brig.-Gen. John 
Cropper (Virginia) and Mrs. Catherine B. Cropper; 2. *The 
Starr-Spangled Banner, being the Garrison flag of Ft. Mc- 
Henry, Baltimore, during the bombardment of the Fort 
by the British, Sept. 13-14, 1814. Francis Scott Key, detained 
with the British fleet, had eagerly watched for this flag, and 
when he saw it still waving on the morning of the 14th, he 
was inspired to write, "The Star-Spangled Banner" ; 3. Mexi- 
can onyx side-board presented to Grant by the citizens of 
Pueblo, Mexico; 4. Chippewa Family Group, heroic size, 
being the original plaster model by John J. Boyle, of a bronze 
group now in Chicago. 

Rotunda. Here were formerly exhibited a number of the 
larger trophies, gifts of Foreign Bowers, etc. These, ho ^p 
have temporarily made way for cannon, mortars, etc., belong- 
ing to the World War collection. In the center, dominating 
i all other exhiibits, is the colossal plaster statue, *Liberty (19H 
ft. high), made in Rome by Thomas Crawford, and used 
, by Clark Mills in 1868, for casting the ibronze statue now 
I surmounting the Dome of the Capitol. In doorway lead- 
' ing from North Wing are two Colossal Faience Vases from 
' Limoges, France, made to commemorate the Declaration of 
'. Independence, and exhibited at Philadelphia, 1876; presented 
' by the manufacturers, Haviland and Co., to the Unite'd 
I States Government. Height 7 ft. 8,V< in., greatest circum- 
1 ference 11 ft. 4 in. Value of pair, $17,500. 

! The average visjtor, especially if limited in time, will probably visit 

\\ next the spacious W., S'. and E. Wings, opening directly from the 
u Rotunda, leaving the Ranges and Pavilions until later. A more practical 
procedure, however, is to return at once to the Northern .Range, West 
Section, finish the American Historic exhibits and Gontinue the circuit 
of the Ranges from, R. >to L., taking in the Wings a^^ they are succes- 
sively reached. This aqcordingly is the method 'here pursued. 

North Range, East Section: United States History con- 
tinued: The most important exhibits in this room are the 
personal possessions, household furniture, etc., formerly at 
Mt. Vernon, known as the **"Lewis Collection of Wash- 
ington Relics," purchased by the United States Government 
in 1878 from the heirs of Mrs. Laurence Lewis (Eleanor 
Parke Custis). They are contained in first cases south of 
main aisle (E. to W.) : i. Miscellaneous Washington relics, 
including Bronze bust of Washington, copied from Houdon's 
life-cast in 1785; *Miniatures of George and Martha Wash- 
ington, painted on wood by Trumbull (1792-94); 2. Candle- 



330 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

sticks and taJbleware owned by Washington ; 3. Miscellaneous 
relics, including an English ke3^ed Zither, presented by Wash- 
ington to Nellie Custis ; 4. Washington's writing case used 
during the War of the Revolution; his camp mess-chest with 
utensils, his treasure chest, etc. : In lower compartment : Tent 
poles and tents used in the Revolutionary War ; 5. Mirror, 
tables and chairs owned by Washington at Mt. Vernon ; 
6. China, glassware and other objects owned by Washington 
while President. 7. Swords, canteens, powder-horns, etc., 
from the Revolution. 8. Swords, uniforms and other relics 
of the U. S. Navy in the early 19th century. 9. Silver cen- 
terpiece loaned by the Aztec Club of 1867. 

Second South Row (W. to E.) : i. Silverware, silhou- 
ettes and pertsonal ornaments of the early 19th century. 2. Gus- 
iavus Vasa Fox Collection of works illustrating Russian life 
and history. Mr. Fox was sent to Russia in 1866, as special 
Minister to congratulate the Emperor on his escape from 
assassination. 3. The Gan^evoort Collection of swords, uni- 
forms, portraits, etc., from the Revolutionary and Civil Wars. 
4. Swords, pistols, silverware, etc.. period of the War of 
1812. 5. Lezvis Collection continued: Chairs owned by Wash- 
ington at Mt. Vernon, including easy chair used by him in 
his bedroom shortly before death. 6. Mirror presented by 
Washington to his wife in 1/95; panel from the Washington 
coach, etc. 7. Military Collection of Maj. Gen. John R. 
Brooke, including presentation and service swords, uniform 
and insignia. 8. Swords and other relics of Gen. Henry 
W. Lawton. 9. Swords and other relics of Jose Antonio 
Paez ; sword carried by Simon Bolivar. 10. Medals and 
decorations presented to George F. Barker, the physicist. 

Third South Row: Cases 1-4. Old English Blue china 
plates, etc., decorated with early views of New York City: 
The Battery; Old Park Theater; the Great Fire; Plates with 
scenes from Uncle Tom's Cabin; China forming part of 
dinner services used during the administrations of Madison, 
Monroe, Lincoln, Grant and Hayes, etc. 5. Mrs. F. W. 
Dickens Collection of china and porcelain. English and 
American ware, copper lustre. Wedgwood, Staffordshire, etc. 
6. Old china continued. 7. Dinner service of Lowestoft, a 
ware generally used in American homes as the best china 
on special occasions (i 775-1825). 

West Wall: The Wall Cases contain: (S. to N.) : i-3- 
Official costumes of William L. Dayton and of Major John 
Biglow as American Ministers to the Court of Napoilcon III ; 
also of Sidney Mason (1829) when American Consul at Porto j 



OLD NATIONAL MUSEUM 331 

Rico. 4. Collection of National American Suffrage Asso- 
ciation: Portraits of Dr. Anna Howard Shaw, and Mrs. Carrie 
Chapman Catt; certified copy of joint resolution of Congress 
extending right of suffrage to women. 

North Wall Cases (W. to E.) : i. Woman's Suffrage 
Collection continued : Relics of Susan B. Anthony. 2-8. 
Exhibit of swords, partly the Alfred S. Hopkins Collection, 
and in part lent by War Department. East Wall : Swords 
lent by War Department continncd. 

North Aisle Cases (W. to E.) : i. Mahogany table owned 
by Susan B. Anthony when w^riting the "Declaration of Sen- 
timents" for women in 1848; also inkstand, purse, gold watch. 
etc. Cases 2-13. Badges and insignia of officers and enlisted 
men in U. S. Army, U. S. Navy and U. S. Marine Corps ; 
U. S. Army decorations and certificates; U. S. War Medals 
awarded by individual states in recognition of services during 
War with Spain and in World War; also ^French Bronze 
Memorials commemorating World War events : Burning of 
Rheims Cathedral, Defense of Verdun, Victory of the 
Tanks, etc. 

On the wall a:bove are several historic portraits, including 
Gustavus Vasa, King of Sweden, 1523-60, by Adelaide 
Lenhusen; Gen. Jose Antonio Paez, First President of Vene- 
zuela, by John J. Peoli ; Joihn Custis and Frances Parks 
Custis; Rear- Admiral George W. Melville, by Sigismond de 
Ivanowski. 

West Range, North Section: *American Historical Cos- 
tumes: This collection is due to the efforts of Mrs. Julian- 
James, with the co-operation of Mrs. Stephen B. Elkins, Mrs. 
John Hay, Mrs. Harriet Lane Johnston, Mrs. Rose Gouverneur 
Hoes and a number of other ladies. The most interesting 
feature is a series of life-size models clad in dresses worn 
by former mistresses of the White House. The heads and 
faces of these lay figures were modeled in plaster by H. W . 
Hendley, of the National Museum, the same face being used 
for all the figures, and differing only in the arrangement of 
the hair. All the cases and exhibits are fully numbered and 
accompanied by explanatory placards. 

Case I. Salmon pink silk dress, hand-painted, worn by 
Mrs. Washington ; chair, tray, decanter and glass from Mt. 
Vernon ; 2. Plum-colored crepe dress worn by Mrs. John 
Adams; 3. Yellow satin brocade dress representing dress 

I worn by Mrs. Dolly Madison; Blue silk dress worn by Mrs. 

I Samuel L. Gouverneur, youngest daughter of President 



Zi2 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Alonroe, and the first bride of the White House; 4. White 
net dress worn by Mrs, John Quincy Adams; also old gold 
satin brocade dress worn by Mrs. Andrew Jackson Donald- 
son ; 5. Blue velvet dress worn by Mrs. Sarah Angelica 
Van Buren, wife of the President's eldest son ; 6. Gray 
plush dress worn by Mrs. Jane Irwin Findlay, mistress 
of the White House under William Henry Harrison ; White 
gauze dress, vividly embroidered, worn by Mrs. Tyler when 
presented at the Court of Louis Phillippe; 7. Blue brocade 
satin dress worn by Mrs. James K. Polk ; Green silk grena- 
dine worn by Miss Betty Taylor, the President's daughter ; 
8. Lavender silk dress worn by Mrs. Fillmore ; Black tulle 
dress worn by Mrs. Franklin Pierce ; 9. White moire antique 
silk dress worn, on the occasion of her marriage, by Mrs. 
Harriet Lane Johnston; (Un-numbered Case) Dress worn 
by wife of President Lincoln. 10. White silver brocade dress 
worn by Mrs. Ulysses S. Grant. 11. Dresses worn 'by Mrs. 
Rutherford B. Hayes and Mrs. James A. Garfield. 12. Silk 
brocade dress, pale green with American Beauty roses, worn 
by Airs. Grover Cleveland; also dress worn by Mrs. Mary 
Arthur McElroy, sister of President Arthur. 13. Plum-col- 
ored brocade worn by Mrs. Benjamin Harrison; also cream- 
white satin dress worn by Mrs. McKinley; 14. Dress worn 
by Mrs. Theodore Roosevelt; also white chifTon dress, em- 
broidered in the Philippine Is-lands, and worn by Airs. William 
H, Taft. This, like several of the other dresses, was worn 
at the Inaugural Ball. 15. Djesses worn by the first an 
second wives oif ex-President Woodrow Wilson. 

In the bewildering profusion of other exhibits, the visitor 
should not fail to note the following: Case 21, No. 6. Irish 
Valenciennes lace collar, made by the novelist, Maria Edge- 
w'orth ; No. 9. Point d'Argentine lace from a collar once 
belonging to the Empress Eugenie ; Case 34, No. 2. Wedding 
dress of Mrs. Julia Ward Howe ; Case 47. Breeches and 
riding boots, waistcoat and linen shirt worn by Thomas 
Jefferson ; Case 48. Uniform worn by General Washington 
when he resigned his commission as Commander-in-Chief of; 
the Continental Army ; Case 56. Two costumes worn by Char- 
lotte Cushman in Henry VIII. 

Northzvest Pavilion: This room, entered from the WestI 
Range, contains three special collections: i. Musical Instru- 
ments of the world, arranged in the four series of wall cases;; 
2. Numismatics, arranged in table-cases ; 3. Philately, a generalli 
collection of postage stamps now valued at, approximately,! 
$250,000; and especially strong in United States stamps. It) 



OLD NATIONAL MUSEUM 333 

has recently been augmented by the valuable private collection 
of the late David W. Cromwell, of New York. 

The stamp collection is in charge of Mr. J, B. Leavy, 
whose office is in the Historical Department's room, in the 
West Range. 

This room also contains the Robert Heivett Collection 
■of Medallic Lincolniana; and the Thomas Kelly Boggs Col- 
lection of decorations, medals and badges. 

Above the wall cases are arranged a miscellaneous series 
of bronze busts, 48 in number, including Scientists, Judges, 
Presidents, and State Governors. 

West Wing : This wing, formerly devoted to Ethnology, 
is at present in a transition state, and still contains at W. 
end a few Chinese exhibits ; while at E. end considerable 
space has been, usurped by an overflow from the Rotunda 
of the World War collection. 

The chief Technological exhibits include: (N. Wall) 

1. Miodel showing occurrence and mining of Tin ; 2. Model 
showing the mining of deep gold placers in frozen ground, 
near Fairbanks, Alaska. 3. Exhibits showing the various 
methods oif mining gold. 

Central Exhibits, i. Model of Charcoal Blast Furnace. 

2. Specimens of copper ore, showing typical examples of 
native copper. 3. Large model of Iron Mine, showing ex- 
posed sections of earth's strata. 

South Wall: i. Model of Copper Mine of Utah Copper 
Co., Bingham Canyon, Utah (a mountain of copper ore % mi. 
high, which in ten years has produced enough copper to 
stretch a telegraph Wiire 500 times around the earth). 
2. Model of Salt Creek Oil Fields, showing both surface and 
underground conditions. 

West Range, South Section : Mineral Technology, con- 
tinued : The Story of White Lead, showing the world's 
1 supply by countries, and some of its industrial uses: Zinc, 
' its oxides and industrial uses; Manufacture of Glass; Exhibit 
! of Natural Ingredients for making Glass; Examples of the 
'first successful production of optical glass in Amerca ; 
I Model of Regenerative Glass Melting Furnace (Macbeth- 
Evans Glass Co., Pittslburgh) ; Exhibits of Natural and Arti- 
j ficial Abrasives. 

I Southwest Pavilion: Exhibits of Coal, Coke, etc.; *Min- 

:' iature Colliery and' Coke Plant: Platform exhibit 30x44 ft., 
gift of the Consolidation Coal Co., Fairmont, W. Va. This is 
I 



334 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

an exact reproduction of the company's property, including 
mines, railway tracks and yard, coke furnace, etc. The ma- 
chinery operates for three minutes every quarter hour. 

South Range, West Section: Mineral Technology, con- 
tinued. West Wall (N. to S.) : i. Mica, its occurrence and 
trade values. 2 and 3. Asbestos, its occurrence and uses. 
South Wall : i. American Clay Products ; ornamental pottery 
showing technique of clay working. 2. .Model of Sulphur 
Mine, showing the Frasch Method. 3. Soda Manufacturing 
Plant, representing the source and extraction of raw materi- 
als, salt, limestone and ammonia, and their treatment in manu- 
facturing caustic soda, soda ash and baking soda. 4. Natural 
Gas production transmission, service and conservation. East 
Wall : I. Petroleum Technology : Model showing occurrence 
extraction, transportation and refining of crude oil. 

2. American Dyes. 3. Technology of Asphalt : Specimens 
shownng physical properties of natural asphalt and their appli- 
cation in use. North Wall: i. Asphalt continued. 2. Limes, 
'Concretes and Plasters. 

Central Exhibits (W. to E.) : i. (R.) Model showing 
occurrence and mining of Salt, and preparation for commer- 
cial use. Gift of Worcester Salt Co. Machinery operates 
every 15 minutes. 2. (L.) Model showing Portland cement 
manufacturing in Lehigh District of East Pennsylvania; con- 
structed in co-operation with Atlas Portland Cement Co. 

3. (R.) Model of Lime Manufacturing Plant, 1/48 natural 
size. Gift of the Charles Warner Co., Wilmington, Del. 

4. (L.) Model, 1-48 actual size, showing method of mining 
gypsum and its treatment preparatory to nianufacturng it 
into plaster : Constructed in co-operation with the U. S. 
Gypsum Co. 5. (R.) *Model of Trinidad Pitch Lake, gift 
of the Barber Asphalt Paving Co.; 6. (L.) Idealized Indus- 
trial Site, illustrating the close relation among chemical indus- 
tries. The intermediate plant forms the connecting link 
between; the products of sulphur, coal, air, salt, etc., and 
medicines, flavors, perfumes, dyes, war-gasses and explosives. 

South Wing: Hall of Textiles. A. Cotton: Central 
Aisle, W. side (first four cases) : a. Manufacture of cotton 
thread; West Wall cases: b. Cotton ginning; c. Cotton spin- 
ning; d. Cotton wash fabrics; e. Cotton flannels; f. Hand- 
block painted chintz; ^Shakespeare Cretonne, the design con- 
taining 69 English flowers mentioned in Shakespeare's plays 
and poems; g. Roll printed cotton draperies. 

B. Wool Textiles: Central Aisle, W. side (5th case et 
sea.) : a. The crude wool; b. Carding and spinning; c. Mann- 



OLD NATIONAL MUSEUM 335 

facture of worsted yarn ; d. Woolen dress goods ; cashmere, 
batiste, voile, challie, etc.; e. Dress Goods, confmued: pnmella, 
serge, taffeta, ratine; f. sihetland, Oheviot, zibeline. chinchilla, 
g. United States Flag made of Panama cloth, h. Steps in 
production of carded woolen fabrics ; i. Specimens of carded 
woolen fabrics; j. Spray printing; Fabrics decorated with 
the airbrush J k. Fabrics decorated by roller printing; 1. 
Tying and dyeing; m. Wax-resist dyeing; Batik work. 

C. Silk Textiles : Central Aisle, E. side cases : a. Life 
history of the silk worm; b. Sericulture as practiced in Japan; 
c. Raw silk ; d. Spun silk, showing the manufacture of thread 
from waste silk; e. Cartridge cloth (i. e. S'pim-silk fabrics 
Uised for bags to hold charge of smokeless powder foe large 
guns) ; f. Piece-dyed silk stuffs ; g. Dress and lining satins ; 
h. Skein-dyed silks, Scotch plaids ; i. Warp printing (the 
pattern is printed on the warp threads, before weaving) ; 
j. and following cases: Taffeta ^silks, novelty silks, necktie 
silks, veilings, etc. 

D. East Wall cases (temporary installation, 1922) ; Col- 
lection of looms and household implements for spinning, reel- 
ing and winding; carding machines, etc. 

South Range, Eastern Section: Textiles, continued. Cen- 
tral Cases : silk pile fabrics for wraps, trimmings and uphol- 
stery; textile fur fabrics; crepe-finish cotton cloth; drapery 
and upholstery fabrics ; cotton pile fabrics ; crepe dress goods 
(all cotton, cotton and silk, all wool). These exhibits are 
mainly presented by American manufacturers, whose names 
are on the cases. 

Wall Cases : Japanese silk fabrics ; moire silks, etc. ; note 
especially case at S. E. cor. : *Handicraft work of the Blind ; 
also E. Wall Case : *Chinese embroideries, including brocaded 
robe made for the Emperor Hsin Fung, and taken from the 
Yuen-Ming- Yuen, when that Palace was destroyed by fire in 
i860, by order of the English and French allies. 

Southeast Pavilion : Wood Technology : The S. and E. 
Walls are devoted to specimens of industrial woods in form 
of polished slabs and planks. Around the balcony railing are 
a series of pictures in color showing : A. Scenes in Govern- 
ment Forest Reservations ; B. Typical stages in Lumbering ; 
C. Forest Industries. 

The Central Exhibits include: i. Large model, 16x16 
ft, showing how the National Forests are administered and 
used ; the model shows bridges, forest homestead, grazing 
cattle, hydro-electric power development, summer resorts, etc. 



336 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

2. Model showing Turpentine Orcharding and manufacture 
of gum spirits (iSouthern Yelilow Pine region). 3-7. Cases 
showing progressive steps in the manufacture of the golf 
driver, electric sadiron handle, cedar cigar box, baseball bat, 
tennis racquet, bowling ball and tenpin, 8. Large model show- 
ing a typical lumber treating process. 9* Large section of 
heavy oak beam taken from roof of Westminster Hall during 
recent repairs. 

The roof was built under the orders of Richard II in 1399, and the 
oak timbers used (allowing for age of tree) must be at least 1000 years 
old. The section, presented to the Museum by the British Government 
exemplifies the durability of British oak, and the beauty of the old 
craftsman's work. 

East Range, South Section : Contains exhibits illustrat- 
ing the development of scientific and industrial instruments : 
Sextants and compasses; calculating machines; telescopes and 
microscopes; galvanometers; standards of weights and 
measures ; typewriting machines ; telegraph and telephone 
instruments ; gramophones ; clocks, watches, etc. 

East Wing : Exhibits showing the Evolution of the Rail- 
way Track; development of the bic3xle ; early specimens of 
the gasoline automobile, etc. 

The Central Exhibits include : Cylinder of the Horn- 
blower engine, the first engine on the western continent, im- 
ported from England in 1753: the "Stourbridge Lion," built 
in 1828 for the D. & H. Canal Co. It was the first locomo- 
tive in the western hemisphere to run upon a railway built 
for traffic. A placard records that on Aug. 18th, 1829, it 
was first run on a section of the Delaware and Hudson Canal 
Company's road "with good speed, around a curve and across 
the bridge and up the railroad for about a mile and a half." 
Diagonally opposite stands another locomotive, the John Bull, 
built in 183 1 by John Stevenson, Newcastle-on-Tjme. It is 
the oldest complete locomotive now existing in America. 

Northeast Paznlion: This Hall, reached from E. Wing, 
is devoted chiefly to a collection of armor and arms; rifles, 
revolvers,, muskets, etc. 

East Range, North Section: History of Water Trans- 
portation : "Water craft of the world, from the raft to the 
full-rig<T^ed ship." Above the S. entrance door are four 
bronze busts of pioneers among American shipbuilders : a. 
John Stevens, builder of the first twin-screwed steamboat; 
b. John Ericsson, inventor of the Monitor; c. Robert Fulton, 
builder of the Clermont; d. Charles H. Haswell, First Engi- 
neer-in-Chief, U. S. N. 



OLD NATIONAL MUSEUM 337 

The visitor's eye is first caught by the important collection 
of Indian Canoes suspended from the ceiling and walls, 
including a *Giant Dugout War Canoe, Vancouver Islands 
(1876) ; a three-seat skin boat or Bidarka, Aleutian Islands 
(1885); and a two-seated Bidarka from Unalaska (1889). 

In the Central Cases (W. side) aire models of various 
steamships and sailing- vessels, including (W. side) steamship 
Philadelphia (1889); Full-rigged Merchant Ship; model of 
Viking Ship; (E. side) Cutter Yacht, English type (1884); 
Hendrik Hudson's Half Moon; Columbus' Santa Maria, 
Susan Constant, of the Jamestown Colony; steamship Savan- 
nah (1819), the first steamship to cross the Atlantic (Savan- 
nah to Liverpool, May 22d-June 20th) ; steamship R: F. 
Stockton (1839), first vessel with screw propeller and iron 
hull to cross the Atlantic (machinery designed by Ericsson) ; 
models of the Monitor and of the Mcrrimac, etc. 

Wall Cases : These contain a bewildering collection of 
models of ancient and modern water craft of both hemi- 
spheres. To the American the most interesting part of the 
display is in the Western Wall Cases (acquired chiefly 
through the U. S. Fish Commission). It consists of repro- 
ductions, many of them of painstaking accuracy, of American 
sailing vessels, fish schooners, lobster trawlers, etc. (over 75 
specimens), showing the history of the American sailing 
vessel ; while in most cases the name of the particular boat 
from which the model was made and some details of her 

I histor- are given. 

North Range, East Section: This hall is occupied mainly 
by collections of hand-made laces and "Arts of the Thread" 
(26 cases) ; brocades and various embroideries, fancy work- 
bags, etc. (in wall cases) ; fans (four table-cases) ; also a loan 
exhibit of Limoges enamels (table-cases in S. W. cor.). A 
recent installmenit is a selection oif rare Oriental rugs, from 
! the collection oif "A Connoisseur of Washington." 
b Gallery Floor: The Galleries in this Museum encircle 

'i the four Pavilions and the W., S. and E. Wings, and are so 
connected that they may all be seen consecutively without 
; descending to the ground floor, provided the visitor begins 
j with either the N. E. or N. W. Pavilion. The stairways are 
!j reached from the Rotunda at the corners of the E. and W. 

I I Wings. 

Ij Northii.'est Pavilion Gallery: The History and evolution 
1^ of Photography: i. First permanent heliograph by "asphalt 
l| process," made by Joseph N. Niepcc, 1824 ; 2. The Daguerre- 
! otype, invented by A^. /. M. Daguerre, 1839; 3. Calotype, in- 



338 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

vented by Henry Fox Talbot (considered one of the most 
important steps in photography, as it includes the photographic 
negative) ; 4. The Stereoscope and Stereoscopic photographs. 
Note *Stereoscopic portraits of Maj.-Gens. W. T. Sherman, 
James B. McPherson, Franz Siegel, N. P. Banks, A. E. Burn- 
side, etc.; 5. Ambrotype; 6. The plain Silver Print (Crystal- 
otype) ; 7. The Albumen Silver Print (wet collodion nega- 
tive) ; 8. Carbon Printing; 9. Platinotype, invented 1873; 10. 
Development of the Photographic camera. This collection 
comprises a series of some 250 pieces of apparatus dating 
from the introduction of Frederick Scott Archer's Collodion 
wet-plate process, 1852, and includes most of the important 
improvements up to 'the present time; 11. Motion Pictures, 
represented by a large numlber of prints and some apparatus 
used by Muybridge, the pioneer in motion picture art : also 
a series of Jenkins earily motion picture models ; 12. Collec- 
tion of pictorial photographic specimens by H. P. Robinson, 
Frederick Hollyer, etc. ; 13. Printing by development ; rep- j 
resenting various "gas-light papers" ; 14. Photography in ^ 
Astronomical work; 15. X-Ray Photography; 16. The 
Photomicrograpih. 

West Wing Gallery: Collections illustrative of the 
Rites and Development of the Great Historic Religions : 
Judaism, Buddhism, Brahmanism, Shintoism and the Rus- j 
sian and Roman Catholic Churches. ! 



Southwest Pavilion Gallery: Industrial Arts: Feathers j 
and feather-work; sealing wax and glues; brushes and bris-j 
ties; leather and leather-work, including gloves and shoes;} 
feather-bone and whale-bone; carved horn, including moun- j 
tain sheep and rhinoceros horn; tortoise shell; mother-of-jj 
pearl work, including buttons; carved teeth and tusks, includ-j 
ing alligator, walrus and mammoth ivory. 

South Wing Gallery: Industrial Arts continued: Exhi-^ 
bition illustrating the manufacture of felt hats; exhibition ofl 
various textile materials and fabrics, including raffia, palmf 
fibre, pineapple fibre and banana fibre ; collection of strawi 
and other braids; exhibition of Japanese textiles, cotton cordj 
and rope ; more textiles, including bark-cloth, crude bast,( 
jute, and several cases of hemp, including Japanese, Spanish^' 
Italian and native Kentucky species. 



THE FREER GALLERY 339 

Northeast Pavilion Gallery: Ceramics: Aboriginal Pot- 
tery, Native tribes of North America ; Spanish-American and 
Portuguese-American Wares; Pottery and porcelain of the 
United States ; English pottery and porcelain, including 
Wedgewood ; French pottery and porcelain, including Sevres ; 
Holland Old Blue and Polychrome, Delft and Amstel; Span- 
ish and Hispano-muresque pottery ; *Af rican ceramic work 
(Moorish); Siamese brass repousse and enamel; Korean 
mortuary pottery and ceremonial vessels from graves (iith 
Century A. D. and earlier) ; Japanese pottery and porcelain, 
bronzes and lacquer ware ; Silver and gilt work from the 
Philippine Islands. 

V. The Smithsonian Institution — The Freer Gallery 

The ''Freer Gallery of Art (PI. I— B-4), at the S. W. 
cor. of the Smithsonian Grounds, is, together with the collec- 
tion which it houses, the gift of Charles L. Freer of Detroit, 
Mich., who during his lifetime generously erected the Gallery 
at a cost of $1,200,000, and left by will an endowment of some 
$2,000,000, the income of which provides a fund for purchases 
of works by American and Oriental artists. Mr. Freer died 
Sept. 25, 1919, and the entire Freer Collection was received in 
November of the following year. Since it was found that 
visitors seriously interrupted the task of unpacking and dis- 
tributing the exhibits, the Freer Building has been closed 
' to visitors during the work of installation. 

, The Freer Building, designed by Charles A. Piatt, is 

ja rectangular structure of gray Milford (Mass.) granite, on 
j the Italian Renaissance order, measuring 228 ft. in length by 
,| 185 ft. in depth, and consisting of a high basement surmounted 
by a single main story, divided into 19 exhibition halls of 
various dimensions, surrounding a central open court approxi- 
Imately 60 ft. square, exclusive of surrounding loggias. This 
' court is of Tennessee marble. The basement contains in ad- 
1 dition to the Administrative Offices, an Auditorium, a series 
!of study rooms and ample storage space for such portions of 
ithe collection as will not be placed on public view. Through- 
jout the main story, on which the works of art will be 
'exhibited, the floors', of both galleries and corridors are 
i I entirely of marble and tarazzo. The Curator is Mr. J. E. 
jl Lodge, of the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston. 

I' History. In Dec. 1904 Mr. Freer offered to bequeath or make 

'1 present conveyance of his collection, either to the United States Gov- 
jernment or to the Smithsonian, under certain specified conditions. The 
story goes that Prsident Roosevelt, learning indirectly of this generous 



340 RIDER'S WASHINGTOxX 

offer, insisted upon having it looked into, and thus saved to the Nation 
a unique collection which seemed then on the point of being lost. 

The conditions under which Mr. Freer's offer was finally accepted 
by the Board of Regents, Jan. 24, 1906, were in part as follows: 
That the collections and building should always bear the donor's 
name "in some modest and appropriate form"; that no addition or 
deduction should be made after the donor's death, and nothing else 
ever be exhibited with these collections or in the same building, and 
no charge ever made for admission ; that the building itself should be 
arranged with special regard for the convenience of ftudents, and a 
suitable space provided, in which the famous Peacock Room, made by 
Mliistler for the shipbuilder Leyland, should be re-erected complete; 
that the collection should remain' in Mr. Freer's possession during life, 
and subsequently in possession of his executors until completion of the 
building. Mr. Freer afterwards modified some of these conditions, 
and decided upon an early erection of the building and transfer of the 
collection to Washington. War conditions, however, delayed the work, 
and he died before seeing his project fully realized. 

The principal entrance to the Freer Gallery is through a 
loggia and vestibule opening up'on a large square hall. 
On R. and L. of entrance are coat rooms. The corridor 
which divides this hall from the inner open-air court leads 
on R. to four rooms devoted to paintings by American artists 
three being assigned respectively to works by Thomas W. 
Dewing, Dzvight IV. Tryon and Abbott H. Thayer, while the 
fourth contains a miscellaneous collection. The galleries on 
the further side of the building, five in number, are devoted 
wholly to the works of JVhistler, the one at the extreme left 
corner containing the famous Peacock Room. All the re- 
maining galleries on the exhibition floor are devoted to works 
of Oriental Art, the Chinese, Persian and Lydian exhibits 
being assigned to the rooms on the L. side, and the Japanese 
on the R. side of the central court. 

Each of the exhibition galleries has its own separate 
skylight, and all these rooms have purposely been made 
small in order that the light shall fall upon the walls at a 
proper angle. Equally careful attention has been given to 
regulation of temperature. The Freer collection contains manv 
Oriental objects which might suffer injury from too dry an 
atmosphere. Accordingly, devices have been installed to 
furnish the requisite moisture whenever the air becomes too 
dry. 

Since it is impossiible, at the present stage of installation ' 
(1922). to give even approximately a summary of the con- 
tents of the separate rooms, the following general statement 
of the scope of the Freer Collection is here given for informa- 
tion of visitors, in the event of the unforeseen early opening 
of the Museum. 



THE FREER GALLERY 34i 

American Paintings, Drawings, etc. Thomas Wilmer Dewing (1851- ): 
I. Portrait of a Young Girl; 2. The Piano; 3. The Blue Dress; 
4. After Sunset; 5. The Carnation; 6. Early Portrait of the Artist's 
Daughter; 7. Before Sunrise: 8. Portrait in Blue; 9. Study of a Woman 
Seated; 10. Girl with Lute; 11. Mandolin ; 12. La Comedienne.; 13. The 
Mirror; 14. Yellow Tulips; 15. Lady Playing the Violoncello; 16. The 
Garland; 17. In WTiite; 18. The Lute; 19. The Four Sylvan Sounds 
(painted on wooden screens) ; 20-22. Portraits, including one of the 
artist; also 9 pastels and 3 silver points. Childe Hassam (1859- ), 
The Chinese Alerchant?; Winslow Homer (1836-1910), Early Evening; 
also 3 water colors- Gari Melchers (i860- ), Portrait of President 
Roosevelt; John S. Sargent. (1856- ): i. Landscape with Goats; 2. The 
Weavers: Joseph Lindon Smith (1863- ): i. Priestess from Ankor-Wat, 
Cambodia; 2. Seated Buddha, from monument of Boro-Boedor, Java; 
Abbott H. Thayer (1849-1921): i. Head; 2. The Virgin; 3. Diana; 4. 
Sketch of Cornish Head'ands; 5. Capri; 6, Monadnock in Winter; 7. 
Monadnock No. 2; 8. Winged Figure; 9-1 1. Three Portraits, including 
artist's son and eldest daughter; Dzvight H\ Tryon (1849- ): i. A 
Lighted Village: 2. Moonlight; 3. The Rising Moon — Autumn; 4. Sea — 
Sunset; 5. Twilight — Early Spring; 6. Springtime; 7. Daybreak — May; 
8. Sunrise — April; 9. New England Hills; 10. Twilight— May ; 11. 
Evening Star; 12. Morning; 13. Sea — Night; 14. Sea — Morning: 15. 
Springtime; 16. Summer; 17. Autumn; 18. Winter; 19. Dawn; 20. The 
Sea— Evening; 21. April Morning; 22. October; 23. Autumn Day; 

24. Night; 25. Autumn Morning; 26. Twilight — Autumn; 27. Evening — 
September; 28. Twilight — November; 29. Autumn Evening; 30. Morning 
Mist; also 2 water colors and 16 pastels: John Henry Twachtman 
(1853-1902): I. Drying Sails; 2. The Hidden Pool. 

The chief feature, however, of the American Art Collec- 
tion is comprised in the 1200 examples of the work of James 
McNeill Whistler (1834-1903), including oils, water colors, 
etchings and lithographs. The following is a list of the oil 
paintings, with a brief summary of the other works. 

Oil Paintings. i. Portrait Sketch of Mr. Whistler; 2. Portrait of 
Major Whistler; 3. Portrait of F. R. Leyland; 4. Rose and Silver — -La 
Princesse du Pays de la Porcelaine; 5. Jeune Femme Dite L'Americaine 
— Arrangement in Black and White No. i; 6. Nocturne: Southampton; 
7. Nocturne: Blue and Silver— Bognor; 8. Nocturne: Blue and Silver — 
Batter-ea Beach; 9. Nocturne: Blue and Silver — Chelsea Embankment; 
10. Symphony in Gray — 'Early Morning, Thames; 11. Nocturne: Opal 
and Silver; 12. The Thames in Ice; 13. Blue and Silver — Trouville; 14. 
Variations in Pink and Gray — Chelsea; 15. \'ariations in Flesli Color 
and Green — The Balcony; 16. Harmony in Purple and Gold, No. 2 — 
The Golden Screen; 17. The Little Blue and Gold Girl; 18. Venus Rising 
from the Sea; 19. \"enus; 20. Symphony in Green and Violet; 21. The 
White Symphony — Three Girl^; 22. Symphony in White and Red; 23. 
Variations in Blue and Green; 24. Symphony in Blue and Pink; 

25. Rose and Gold — The Little Lady Sophie of Soho; 26. The 
j Little Red Glove (vnifinished) ; 27. Rose and Brown — La Cigale; 

I 28. An Orange Note' — Sweetshop; 29. A Note in Blue and 
(pal — 'The Sun Cloud; 30. Vert et Or — Le Racon-teur; 31- Petite 
Mephiste; z^- Green and Gold — The Great Sea; 33. The Little 
Nurse; 34. The Angry Sea; 35. The Summer Sea; 36. Blue and Silver — 
Boat Entering Pourville; Z7- Gray and Gold — High Tide at Pourville; 
38. The Butcher Shop: 39. The Gray House; 40. Purple and Gold — 

. Phryne, the Superb, Burlder of Temples; 41. Chelsea Shops: 42. Blue 
and Gray — Unloading; 43. The Sea and Sand; 44. Harmony in Brown 
and Gold— Old Chelsea Church; 45. Blue and Green— The Coal Shaft; 



342 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

46. The White House; 47. Wortley — Note in Green; 48. Low Tide; 49. A 
Note in Red; 50. A Portrait; 51. Devonshire Landscape; 52. Little 
Green Cap; 53. Yellow and Blue; 54. Purple and Blue; 55. Trafalgar 
Square — Chelsea; 56. Portrait of Stevie Manuel; 57. Nocturne: Blue 
and Gold — •Valparaiso^; 58. The Little Faustina (unfinished) ; 59. Gray 
and Silver — The Life Boat; 60. Gold and Orange — The Neighbors; 61. 
The Little Red Note; 62. The Sad Sea— Dieppe; 63. The Music Room. 

Water Colors, Pastels, Drawings, etc. The Whistler Collection 
inckides, in addition to the Oil Paintings, 47 Water Colors; 40 Pastels; 
117 Drawings and Sketches; three Wood Engravings; 683 Etchings 
which include several impressions of some of the plates; 194 Lithographs; 
38 Original Copper Plates; and *The Peacock Room, Whistler's famous 
creation for the London residence df thei latd F. R. Leyland, including 
complete woodwork and all decorations. 

The Oriental Collections, comprising the second and far 
larger portions of the exhibits, embraces a dozen different 
divisions of Eastern Arts and Crafts : 

Babylonian: Bronze metal work, one exhibit; Byzantine : Crystal, i; 
manuscripts, 29; gold metal work, 8; paintings, etc.^ 10.: Cambodian: 
ivory, 6; bronzes, 4; C/im^J^." furniture, 22; glass, 14; jade, etc., 503; 
lacquer, 17; bronze and other metal work, 725; paintings, 1255; pottery, 
481; sculpture, 196; textiles, 183; Cypriote: 2 exhibits; Egyptian: glass, 
1391; pottery, 254; sculpture. 40; Greek: 3 exhibits; Japanese: lacquer, 
29; metal work, 47; paintings, 804; pottery, 821; sculptures, 63 textiles. 
79; Corean: metal work, 197; pottery, 229; sculptures, 14; East Indian: 
metal work, 22; paintings, 139; pottery, 317; Palmyran: i sculpture; 
Tibetan: 13 paintings. 

VI. The Washington Monument 

The **JVash{ngton Monument (PI. II — D-6), stands in the 
center of a gently sloping mound, a little S, E. of the point i 
where the central axes of the Executive Grounds and the Mall 
would intersect at right angles. The surrounding area, com- 
prising about 41 acres, is known officially as Washington Park. 

History. At the close of the Revolutionary War, in 1783. 
an Equestrian Statue of Washington was authorized by the 
Continental Congress, and the American Minister to France 
was directed to order it. The plan, however, was held in 
abeyance through lack of funds. Nevertheless, the present 
site of the Monument was designated for the statue on 
L'Enfant's plan of the city, and approved by Washington 
himself. On Dec. 24th, 1799, within the week following 
Washington's funeral. Congress passed a resolution to the 
effect, "That a marble monument be erected bv the United 
States at the City of Washington, and that the family of 
General Washington be requested to permit his body to_ be 
deposited under it." In 1800 the House of Representatives!; 
appropriated $100,000, and again in if^-oi. $200,000, for the' 
purpose of "creating a Alausoleum." but both bills were de- | 
f eated through Senate amendments and other technicalities. 



THE WASHINGTON MONUMENT 343 

In 1816 the scheme of removing Washington's remains to 
the Capitol was revived, but when Mr. Bushrod Washington, 
then the owner of Mt. Vernon, was approached by the com- 
mittee in charge he emphatically refused: and when the 
proposition was renewed in 1832, to Mr. John Augustine 
Washington, he was equally definite in his refusal. 

The scheme of a National Tomb having been disposed of, 
an organization was formed in 1833, entitled "The Washing- 
ton National Monument Society." Chief Justice John Mar- 
shall was the society's president, and George Watterston, 
the prime mover in its formation, was Secretary. Mrs. James 
Madison, Mrs. John Quincy Adams and Mrs. Alexander Ham- 
ilton were among those appointed to receive contributions. 

The plans accepted were by Robert Mills, for over twenty 
years architect to the Government. They included a grand 
colonnade or Pantheon, 250 ft. in diameter and 100 ft. high; 
above the portico was to be a colossal statue of Washington, 
30 ft. high, in a chariot drawn by six horses and driven by 
Victory. The interior' or Rotunda was to be ornamented 
with statues of the Signers of the Declaration of Independence 
set in niches ; and upon the wall above the niches the prin- 
ciple battles of the Revolution were to be represented in bas- 
relief. From the center of the whole structure was to arise 
a marble shaft 600 ft. in height. With the exception of this 
shaft, all the features of Mills' plans were subsequently 
abandoned. 

I ^ The corner-stone of the monument was laid July 4th, 1848, 
'with Masonic ceremonies, in the presence of the President 
and Vice-President of the United States, and both Houses 
Df Congress. The Grand Master wore the apron and used 
the trowel with which Washington laid the corner-stone of 
the Capitol (pp. 518 and 519). The stone weighed 12 tons, and 
zontained a large zinc-lir^ed cavity in which were placed about 
po articles, including books, portraits, maps, newspapers, 
:oins, medals, Masonic records and the architect's design for 
the monument. The address was delivered by Robert C. 
jWinthrop, then Speaker of the House. 

] In 1854 the shaft had reached the height of 150 ft. An 
^addition of four feet exhausted the Society's funds. Congress 
fVas appealed to for appropriations ; but owing to political 
j!:omplications the monument remained at a standstill until 1878. 
'j _When the plan to complete the monument was definitely 
Revived, a committee, appointed to investigate the foundations, 
.eported that they were of insufficient spread and depth to 
ijustain the weight of the completed shaft, but expressed their 



344 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

belief that it was feasible to strengthen them without disturb- 
ing the superstructure. 

The task of reinforcing the foundation and completing 
the monument was entrusted to Gen. Thomas L. Casey, Chief 
of Engineers, U. S. A. The work of excavating beneath 
the monument was begun Jan. p8th, 1879, and the new foun- 
dation finished May 29th, 1880, at a cost of $94,474- The 
building of the monument was then resumed largely through 
appropriations by Congress. The capstone of the pyramid 
was placed in position Dec. 6th, 1884, and the finished monu- 
ment was dedicated Feb. 21st, 1885, on which occasion the 
oration was delivered by the venerable Robert C. Winthrop, 
who had delivered the address at the laying of the corner- 
stone 27 years earlier. The total cost was $1,187,710.31, of 
which only about $300,000 was raised by individual subscrip- 
tions. 

Description. The Monument is a shaft, the proportions 
of which follow the ratio dimensions of ancient Egyptian 
obelisks. The taper of the shaft is 54 in. to the foot; the 
base is 55 sq. ft. ; the height, measured from above the door- 
sill, is 555 ft. sYs in. The walls are 15 ft. thick at the base 
and taper to 18 in. at the 500-foot elevation, where the 
pyramidal top begins. It is estimated that the total number 
of stones used in building the monument is approximately; 
23,000; that the weight of the whole monument is slightly j 
over 8i,oda tons, and the mean pressure on the base is 5 tons 
to the square foot. 

The materials used in building the monument are: for j 
the enlarged foundation, solid blue rock forming a square | 
126^ ft., with a depth of 38 ft., and an area of approxi-j 
mately 16,000 sq. ft.; for the outer facing of the walls, pure;' 
white marble from Baltimore Co., Alarjdand ; the inside of; 
the walls in the older section (first 10 ft. above base) is ofi.. 
blue granite, not laid in courses. Above this point the in-(! 
terior backing consists of regular courses of New Englanc-; 
granite, corresponding with the courses of marble on th( ; 
outside. The pyramidon forming the last 55 ft. of the monu- 
ment is built wholly of marble. The topmost stone of the! 
pyramidon, weighing 3300 pounds, is approximately 4^ ft, 
high, with a 3-foot base tapering to 5 in. in diameter at th(* 
top, where the aluminum cap fits on. This aluminum cap* 
chosen because it will not tarnish, is 9 in. in height anc; 
weighs 100 ounces. j 

The monument is open from 8:30 A. M. to 4:50 P. ^ 
The elevator (free) starts at 9 a. m., ascending every haljf 

i 



THE WASHINGTON MONUMENT 345 

hour; last trip 4 P. M. It has a maximum capacity of 35 
passengers, but the rules allow only 30. The official time 
of ascent to the 500-foot level is 5 minutes. Usually it takes 
slightly longer. The elevator waits 15 minutes. 

The ascent may also be made by stairs (898), built be- 
tween the walls and the elevator shaft, and broken at 10 ft. 
intervals by platforms situated alternately on E. and W. 
The interior of the shaft below the pyramidon is windowless; 
but it is well lighted by electricity, enabling the visitor to 
study the inscriptions on the various *Memorial Stones built 
into the walls. These stones, 177 in number, have come 
from most diverse sources ; including 40 states and 16 cities ; 
various foreign governments ; 15 lodges of Free Masons ; 13 
of Odd Fellows; 7 of Sons of Temperance; and numerous 
other organizations, some of them long smce forgotten. 
These stones begin at the ist landing (30 ft.) and end at the 
31st (330 ft.), or somewhat more than halfway to the top. 
Few visitors care to take this climb; but many, after as- 
cending by elevator, prefer to walk down. Accordingly, the 
following abbreviated list of the more interesting stones is 
given in inverse or descending order. 

31st Landing (330 ft.) : Marble block inscribed "Top of 
Statue on Capitol"; 26th Landing (280 ft.): Bas-relief bust 
of Shakespeare, with inscription "All that live must die," a 
"tribute of respect from the Ladies and Gentlemen of the 
Dramatic Profession of America" ; From the citizens of Alex- 
andria, Va., "The descendants of the friends and neighbors 
of Washington" ; 25th Landing : Stone from Alexandrian 
Library, Egypt; 22d Landing: Braddock's Field; Battle 
Ground, Long Island; Wales (note Welsh inscription); 21st 
Landing : Kentucky ; Tennessee ; 20th Landing : Chinese and 
Japanese Memorial Stones, with inscriptions; Minnesota; 
Montana; Nebraska; Nevada; Oregon; Wyoming; also 
I"Cherokce Nation, 1850"; loth Landing: Michigan; Kansas; 
i8th Landing: West Virginia; City of Richm.ond, Va. ; 
17th Landing: Switzerland; Greece; Siam ; Brazil; Turkey; 
i6th Landing: Pennsylvania; City of Philadelphia; 15th 
Landing: Vermont;' Boston; Bunker Hill Battle Ground; 
14th Landing: New York; 12th Landing: Otter's Summit, 
Virginia's highest peak; nth Landing: City of New York; 
loth Landing: California; 9th Landing: Iowa; 8th Land- 
ing: Rhode Island; North Carolina; Wisconsin; 7th Land- 
ing: Mississippi; Missouri; Ohio; 6th Landing: Maryland; 
Virginia; "The city of Washington to its founder"-; 5th 
jJLanding: Connecticut; Massachusetts; New Jersey; 4th 



346 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Landing: New Hampshire; South Carolina; 3d Landing: 
Georgia; Illinois; Indiana; 2d Landing: Alabama; Louis- 
iana; 1st Landing: Delaware; Maine; Stone presented by 
George Watterston, Sec. of The Washington National Manu- I 
ment Society. 

Under the new plans of the Park Commission for improvement of 
the Mall, not only has the main E. and W. axis been shifted southward 
(p. 240) so as to pass through the center of the Washington Monument, 
but plans have also been made for radical changes in the surroundint;: 
grounds of Washington Park, convei'ting the present mound into a 
level plane. "This plane, as extensive as the Piazza in front of St. 
Peter's at Rome, will be flanked by elms carried on terraces. Broad 
marble steps on the western side letad down to a formal garden, enclosed 
by wooded terraces; and from thisi garden the( broad opening leads to a 
long level, tree-^bordered, as at Versailles." — Charles Moore, "Daniel 
H. Burnham." 

A complete Guide to the Monument, including the me- 
morial stones and translations of the foreign inscriptions, is 
on sale at the summit, price 25c. 

Navy and Munitions Buildings (PI. II — B-6), these two 
buildings, demanded by the imperative need of increased space 
for the vast activities of the World War, are situated in the 
grounds of Potomac Park, fronting on the S. side of B St., 
and extending approximately from 17th to 21st St. The twO' 
buildings are similar in design and construction, being three- 
story concrete-covered frame buildings of the so-called "ten- 
year" type; both consist of a "head house" extending along the 
street front, with a series of wings projecting southward into 
the Park. The dimensions of the Navy Department buildini 
are: Head house, 860 ft. long, with 9 wings, 60 ft. wide by 
500 ft. deep ; while the Munitions Building of the War 
Department is slightly smaller : Head house, 784 ft. long, 
with only 8 wings of same dimensions as the other building. 
The two structures are united by a covered bridge, spanning 
19th St. 

Taken together these buildings exceed in volume and floor space' 
any other office building in the world. The total floor area is estimated, 
at more than 40 acres, or approximately 1,800,000 sq. ft. A comi>lete 
circuit of the exterior walls, including all the wings, is about 4 miles. 
Both buildings were erected under a single contract at a speed of con-ii 
struction that established a new reciord. The contract was let Feb. 25, 
1918; the buildings were completed and occupied the first week of thet 
following Oct. Cost of Navy Building, $3,292,145; Munitions Building*' 
$2,926,351. 

The Navy Department Building now houses the officesi 
of the Secretary of the Navy, and, with few exceptions, all 
the important Bureaus of the Department, the whole organiza- 
tion having moved down boHi'v from the o'ld State, War and| 



THE WASHINGTOlN MONUMENT 347 

Navy Building (p. 126), where nothing of this Department now 
remains excepting the Naval Library. The new building also 
contains the offices of the United States Shipping Board, the 
Emergency Fleet Corporation and the National Advisory Com- 
mittee for Aeronautics. 

The building contains a collection of models of famous 
war ships, and portraits of former Secretaries of the Navy, 
arranged in the central portion of main hallway, on second 
and third floors. Open to the public week days, from 9 A. M. 
to 2 P. M. 

The main entrance faces i8th St. The portraits of 
Secretaries begin above first landing of W. stairway : 

West Wall, above stairs (S. to N.) : Benjamin F. Tracy. 
Sec. of Navy, 1889-93, by C. IVhipple; William A. Graham. 
Sec. of Navy, 1850-52; George E. Badger, Sec. of Navv. 
1841. 

Second Floor, Main Hallway, South Wall (W. to E.) : 
Isaac Toucey, Sec. of Nav3% 1857-61 ; James C. Dobbin, Sec. 
of Navy, 185:5-57; Adolph E. Borie, Sec. of Navy, March- 
June 1869; John Branch, Sec. of Navy, 1829-31; George 
i Cabot, First Secretary of the Navy, appointed May 3, 1798; 
'John P. Kennedy, Sec. of Navy. 1852-53; Robert Smith, 
Sec. of Navy, 1801-5; Richard W. Thompson, Sec. of Navv, 
'1877-80; William H. Hunt, Sec. of Naw, 1881-82, by E. F. 
\Andrews; Levi Woodbury, Sec. of Navy, 1831-34. 
J East Wall (above ascending stairs) : John Y. Mason, 
j(Sec. of Navy, 1844-45 and 1846-49; Jaul Morton, Sec. of 
iNavy, 1904-05; (above descending stairs): George Bancroft, 
l:Sec. of Navy, 1845-46; Hilary Herbert, Sec. of Navy, 1893- 

I North Wall (E. to W.) : Josephus Daniels, Sec. of Navy, 
1I1913-21, by R. S. Meryman; Charles A. Bonaparte, Sec. of 
'Navy, 1905-6; Bronze bust of Christopher Columbus, taken 
[from Spanish Cruiser Cristobal Colon, sunk July 3, 1898. in 
naval engagement off Santiago de Cuba. The attached bronze 
talblet is made of metal from wreck of Spanish Cruiser Maria 
[Teresa. On the same wall is the tattered remnant of flag 
(from submarine F-4, sunk March 25, 1915, at Honolulu, and 
raised the following August. On table cases in this Hall are 
peven modds of battleships, including the old Kearsarge, the 
South Carolina, the Virginia, the Connecticut and the San 
Diego. 



348 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

In the Third Floor Hallway are 8 more models of 
battleships. 

The adjoining Army Munitions Building contains noth- 
ing of interest to the sightseeing visitor. 

Within the Washington Monument grounds is situated 
the recently established National Sylvan Theatre, an outdoor 
theatre free to the public, and representing the first venture 
of the United States Government into the theatrical field. 
It is due largely to the persistent efforts of Mrs. Christine 
Hemmick of Washington, and was planned and built by Col. 
William \V. Harts, out of funds appropriated by Congresb 
for the improvement of public buildings and grounds in 
Washington. The theatre, which is scarcely more than a 
grassy platform nestling in a hollow on the S. side of the 
Monument, was opened on June 2d, 1917, with elaborate 
ceremonies, and with a pageant written by Mrs. Hemmick, 
and called "The Drama Triumphant." Among the many 
distinguished performers who volunteered their services 
were : Mme. Louise Homer, John Mason, Otis Skinner, 
James K. Hackett. Viola Allen, Ethel Barrymore, Roben 
Mantell and the Russian dancer, Andres Pavley. 

VII. From the Monument Grounds to the Army j 
War College 

South of the Bureau of Engraving and Printing, the great 
mapority of visitors know practically nothing of Washington | 
South v/EST, with the exception of Potomac Park (see below, 1 
P- 352), and the steamship wharves along Washington 
Channel. Yet historically the whole peninsula long known 
as Greenleaf's Point is quite interesting, for it was the ) 
district which Robert Morris. Thomas Law and their associates | 
believed to be the center of future growth; and here were 
erected many of the first blocks of dwellings in the new 
Federal City. 

Southeast of the Moiuiment Grounds, at the S. W. cor. of 
14th and B Sts. S. W., is the rectangular hrick structure 
which, until 1.914, housed the Bureau of Engraving and 
Printing. It is now the Auditors' Building, and contains the^ 
offices of the General Supply Conunittce. 

This Committee, created by Act of June 17, 1910. is composed of 
officers, one from each Execittive Department. Its duties are to make 
an annual schedule of supplies for each Department and other Govei n- . 
ment establishments in Washington, to standardize such supplies audi 

s (licit bids for them. 



TO THE ARMY WAR COLLEGE 349 

The new ^Bureau of Engraving and Printing (PI. Ill — 
F-3 — No. 12), erected in 1911-14 from plans drawn by IV. B. 
OUnstcad in the office of the Architect of the Treasury, and 
reputed to be the largest engraving plant in the world, is 
situated on the W. side of 14th St.. betw. C and D Sts. It 
consists of a basement, four stories and an attic ; the ground- 
plan is a capital "E," but with four wings instead of three. 
Dimensions: Length of "head-house,'' 505 >4 ft.; width, includ- 
ing depth of wings, 295^ ft. The main fagade. comprising a 
.series of massive stone columns, harmonizes with the classic 
and monumental style prevailing in the other Government 
buildings; the wings, however, are constructed on modern 
factory lines, and a full 60 per cent of the wall space is 
given to windows. The total floor area is approximately 
476,700 sq. ft. Cost O'f building, including ground, $2,869,000. 

This Bureau is a branch of the Tre?si;ry Department, and design-, 
engraves and prints all the moneys and securities of the Government 
including: Notes, bonds, certificates, national-bank notes, and Federa' 
reserve notes; all Government stamps, including: Postage, internal 
revenue, thrift, war savings and customs stamps; besides various other 
documents such as: Treasury warrants, passports and patent and pension 
certificates. 

Hours. Open to visitors week days, from 9 a. m. to 
II a. m., and from i p. m. to 2:30 p. m. The public is 
not allowed upon the main floor O'f any of the factory rooms ; 
but there are specially constructed miezzanine galleries 
throiighout the ibuilding, aggregating 1800 ft. in, length,, 
through which visitors are taken in parties by an official guide, 
who explains the various processes witnessed. 

The actual work of engraving plates is not shown. But 
,all the other processes, from the printing of bank notes on 
a special silk-fibred paper, to the counting, numbering and 
collection into packages of 100 notes each by machinery, may 
all be witnessed. In another division may be seen the print- 
ing of the familiar postage stamps in daily use, regarding 
Iwhich the guide gives plentiful statistics. It is interesting 
to remember that the various issues of Liberty Bonds, includ- 
ing the Victory Lo^an, were printed in this building. 
j Three blocks S., on G St., at No. 926, Alexander R. 
[Shepherd, the Governor identified wdth the period of Wash- 
ington's most extensive improvements^ was born Jan. 31, 1835. 
One block S. on 9th St. brings us to Water St., where we 
pass (at foot of 7th St.) the docks of the Mt. Vernon and 
Marshall Hall Steamboat Co., the Norfolk and Baltimore 
Lines and the Alexandria Ferry. One block E. now brings 
us to 6th St., on which, betw. M and N Sts., is still standing 



350 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

No. 1252, temporarily the ihome of Thomas Law, who invested 
his fortune in Washington lots, and upon his marriage to 
Elizabeth Parke Custis, granddaughter of Mrs. Washington, 
in 1795, lived here during the completion of his mansion on 
New Jersey Ave. 

Southeast from the Law house, on Four-and-a-half St., 
Nos. 1313-21, is stilil standing the first range or row built 
in the Federal City, 1793, popularly known as "Wheat Roiv." 
It was erected by a syndicate consisting of Robert Morris, 
"Financier of the American Revolution," John Nicholson, 
Comptrollttr General of Pennsylvania and James Greenleaf, 
cne-time American Consul at Amsterdam. This syndicate, 
and Mr. Law and Daniel Carroll of Duddington, built prac- 
tically all the dwellings 'which were, in readiness when the 
seat of Government was transferred to Washington in 1800. 

James Greenleaf, son of 'the William Greenleaf who read the 
Declaration of Independence from the balcony of the Boston State- 
house, July 18, 1776, came to Washington in 1792, formed a syndicate 
with Robert Morris and one Cranch, and obtained control at an aggre- 
gate price of $700,000 of 6000 out of the 10,000 available public lots, 
and 2500 of the second 10,000 allotted to the original proprietors of 
land comprised within the District. As a result of this wholesale specu- 
lation Morris died in a debtor's prison; Branch in secluded poverty, and 
Greenleaf, although eventually released, never wholly succeeded in 
straightening out the tangles of his indebtedness. 

One iblock S. of "Wheat Row," on P. St., is the entrance 
to the grounds of the Army War College. 

The Washington Barracks (PI. Ill — 'G-4), containing the 
Army War College and the Army Engineering School, are 
situated at the extreme southern end of the city, on what 
was formerly known as Greenleaf's Point, at the mouth of the 
Anacostia River. They command a fine view of Washington, 
Georgetown, Alexandria and the Potomac River. The grounds 
form a long narrow quadrangle measuring 3576 ft. from N. to 
S.. with an average width of 900 ft., and are bounded on 
the W. by Washington Channel, and on the E. by James's 
Creek Canal. 

History. These grounds were from 1861 to 1881 occupied by the 
Washington Arsenal, constituting one of the principal Arsenals of 
construction in the ITnited States. Its numerous workshops were 
equipped with what were in those days regarded as the most advanced 
type of machinery for manufacturing ordnance stores and equipments. 
There was a Model-Office containing a collection of models of ♦''' 
various weapons i sed in this country and in Europe. In front of 
old Arsenal square were exhibited many trophies captured in battl 

The chief historic interest, however, of this locality centers . ■ 
the fact that the old Penitentiary was situated here, being used for' 
several years, until its removal in 1869. as a storehouse for ordnance 
material. It was in this building that those charged with complicity itij 
the murder of President Lincoln were tried and sentenced; and in the I 



NORTH CAPITOL STREET 357 

The hotel is managed entirely by women, and no man is allowed "• 
above the first floor. There are valetingi rooms on each floor, a vanity 
parlor and a shampoo basin, at whiich women can wash their own hair. 
There are accommodations for women with small children, including 
rockerless cribs and heaters for milk bottles. 

The new *City Post Office (PI. I— Ei), situated at the 
N. E. cor. of North Capitol St. and Massachusetts Ave., and 
adjoining the Union Station on the E., is a classic structure 
in the Roman Ionic order of architecture, the material being 
mainly Tavernelle marble from Vicenzia, Italy. It was erected 
in 1912 (D. H. Burnham & Co., architects). 

The cost of the land was $300,000, which was more than doubled 
by the expense of filling in the sunken lots. The foundations required 
115,000 cubic ft. of Bethel (Vt.) granite, and 5000 tons of steel were 
used in the shell of the building. 

The main facade is on Massachusetts Ave., and con- 
sists of fourteen Ionic columns rising through three stories, 
with an additional pair of columns in each of the corner 
pavilions. All the panels between the columns, throughout 
the three stories of this facade, are of bronze. The columns 
are surmounted by a cornice and attic. Graven upon the 
former are two inscriptions : 

I. (Eastern corner), "COURIER OF NEWS AND 
KNOWLEDGE, INSTRUMENT OF TRADE AND IN- 
DUSTRY, PROMOTER OF MUTUAL ACQUAINT- 
ANCE, PEACE AND GOOD WILL AMONG NATIONS." 

IL (Western corner), "MESSENGER OF SYM- 
PATHY AND LOVE, SERVANT OF PARTED 
FRIENDS, CONSOLER OF THE LONELY. BOND OF 
THE SCATTERED FAMILY, ENLARGER OF THE 
I COMMON LIFE." 

The piquant interest of these inscriptions lies in the fact that they 
I are an instance of unintentional collaboration by two distinguished 
j men. At the request of the architects, Ex-President Eliot of Harvard' 
furnished the original text which, in accordance with the requirements 
in case of an inscription on any Government building, was turned 
over to Secretary Tumulty for approval. The latter, unaware of the 
authorship, submitted it to President Wilson, .whose felicitous altera- 
tions may be seen by comparison with the original version; I. "Couiier 
of News and Knowledge, Instrument of Trade and Commerce, Pro- 
; moter of Mutual Acquaintance Among Men and Nations, and Hence 
of Peace and Good Will." II. "Courier of Love and Sympathy, Mes- 
senger of Friendship, Consoler of the Lonely, Bond of the Scattered 
Family, Enlarger of the Public Life." /" 

The two main entrances are through the E. and W. 
pavilions. Note, flanking the approaches, the two pairs of 
■ massive bronze lanterns which, like all the bronze work in 
the building, were executed by the Gorham Company. Note 



358 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

also that the prevailing motive in the carved ornamentation 
of the building is consistently a honeysuckle design. 

The public corridor is on the Massachusetts Ave. side. 
It is elaborately finished in bronze and marble, the ceiling 
supported by twenty-eight richly veined dark green mono- 
lithic pillars, costing $1350 each. 

The out-going mail is carried directly to the trains over 
a "Bridge of Sighs," connecting the Post Office with the 
Union Station. The northward and westward-bound mail 
goes to the street level ; the southward-bound mail to the 
lower tunnel-level. All mail coming to the Office is placed 
on huge belts, conveyors, which automatically distribute it. 
Practically all the transportation in the building is accom- 
plished by machinery. 

Immediately E. of the Post Office is the new Union 
Station, with wide oval Plaza in front. 

The **Union Station (PI. Ill E-5— No. .103), front- 
ing on the spacious Plaza (1000 ft. x 500 ft.) formed by 
the juncture of Massachusetts and Delaware Avenues, serves 
as a central terminal for all the Railroad lines entering 
the city, and also as a through station for the main trunk 
lines. It was erected during the years 1903-07, from plans 
drawn by Daniel H. Buniham of Chicago, and constitute? 
one of the most beautiful and most spacious of the public 
buildings of Washington, covering somewhat more area than 
the Capitol itself. 

The history of this building is distinctly unusual. It was indi- 
rectly the result of an insistent popular demand for the abolilion, of 
grade-crossings within the city, and the removal from the Mall of 
the station and unsightly tracks of the Baltimore and Potomac R. R- 
Congress by an act dated February 12th, 1901, authorized a new and 
enlarged station on the site of the old Baltimore and Potomac station, 
with an overhead viaduct across the Mall and along Maryland and 
Virginia Aves., and by the same act provided for a station for the 
Baltimore and Ohio Road approximately on the • site of the present 
Union Station, with an overhead viaduct extending N. This same year, 
however, witnessed the beginning' of a bold and comprehensive plan 
for beautifying the National Capital, through a commission appointed 
at the sngf.estion of the American Institute of Architects, and con- 
sisting of Daniel H. Burnham. Frederick Law Olmsted. Jr., Charles 
F. McKim and Augustus St. Gaudens. The work of this commission 
had barely started when it became evident that any plan for beauti- 
fying and developing the city's parks depended upon the removal of the 
tlien existing tracks and railway stations. Accordingly the scheme for 
a Union Terminal was laid before the executive officers of the respec- 
tive railways concerned and received prompt and hearty co-operation. 

The new station wa5 authorized by Act of Congress Feb. 28th, 
1913, providing: that the building should cost not less than $4,000,000; > 
and that Congress should pay $1,500,000 each to the Pennsylvania and 
Baltimore and Ohio Railways, the former sum to be paid equally bv 
the United States and the District of Columbia, the latter wholly t v 
the general government. 



NORTH CAPITOiL STREET 359 

Considering the Union Station as a vestibule or gateway 
to the Capital city, its designer appropriately drew its archi- 
tectural motives from the triumphal arches of Imperial Rome. 
The dimensions of the main building are 620 ft. long and 
343 ft. wide, with a height of from 65 to 120 ft. The Concourse 
befiind it is 760 ft. long and 130 ft. wide, almost equalling 
the combined areas of the Grand Central and Pennsylvania 
Terminal Concourses in New York. In the central pavilion 
of the main fagade there are three noble entrance arches 
30 ft. high by 30 ft. wide, which lead into a vaulted open-air 
vestibule and thence into the main waiting room. To R. 
and L. of the central pavilion extend the E. and W. wings 
of the station, borne respectively on seven smaller arches 
and terminating in end pavilions, each containing a 40 ft. 
arched carriage entrance, the eastern one leading to a private 
suite for the President and his guests, while the western 
pavilion contains the general carriage porch. The exterior 
material of the station is a white granite from Bethel Va.. 
here employed for the first time in any large public building. 

It is told that the quarries from which this exceptionally fine 
granite comes were tie property of an eccentric Easterner who, having 
early in life suffered the loss of a favorite child in a railway accident, 
solemnly vowed that the stone from his quarry should henceforth be 
used solely for the purpose of tombstones — a vow he maintained until 
his death. 

The inscriptions on the E. and S. facades consist of quo- 
tations selected by ex-President Eliot of Harvard University. 

1. Southeast Pavilion, East fagade : 

''Welcorne the coming, speed the parting guest." 
"Virtue alone is sweet society. 

It keeps the key to all heroic hearts. 

And opens you a welcome in them all." 

2. Soultiheast Pavilion, South fagade : 

"Let all the ends thou aimest at 
Thy Cotmtry's — thy God's — and Truth's. 

"Be noble, and the nobleness that Hes 
In other men — sleeping, but never dead- 
Will rise in majesty to meet thine own." 

3. Southwest Pavilion, South facade : 

"He that would bring home the wealth of the Indies must carry 
I the wealth of the Indies with him. So is. it in travelling — a man 
|must carry knowledge with himi if he would bring, home knowledge.'' 

The chief artistic adornment of the main fagade is the 
series of six symbolic *Monolithic Statues, by Louis St. 
Gaudens. They are of colossal size and are ranged along 
the cornice surmounting the six columns which flank the 
arches of the main entrance. Each is accompanied with an 
inscribed legend. From W. to E. thev are as follows : 



360 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

1. Fire, a robed female figure bearing a torch. Legend: 

"Fire, greatest of discoveries, enabling man tn live in various 
climates, use many foods, and compel the forces of nature to do his 
work." 

2. Electricity. Male figure holding forked lightning in 
hand. Legend : 

"Electricity, carrier of light and power, devourer of time and space, 
bearer ot human speech over land and sea, greatest servant of man 
itself unknown, thou has put all things under his feet." 

3. Freedom. Female figure with laurel branches in her 
right hand and a sword in her left. Legend : 

"Sweetener of hut and of hall, bringer of life out of naught, 
Freedom, O fairest of all the Daughters of Time and Thought." 

4. Knozvledge. Male figure with stylus and scroll. 
Legend : 

"Man's imagination has conceived all numbers and letters; all tools, 
vessels and shelters, every art and trade, all philosophy and poetries, 
and all politics: the truth shall make you free." 

5. Agriculture. Female figure with a sheaf. Legend: 

"The farm, best hope of the family, main source of national wealth, 
foundation of civilized society, the natural Providence." 

6. Mechanics. Male figure with forceps, anvil and ham- 
mer. Legend: 

"The old Mechanic Arts, controlling new forces, build new highways 
for goods and men, override the ocean and make the very ether carry 
human thought. The desert shall rejoice and blossom as the rose." 

The "^General Waiting Room is a spacious hall 220 ft. 
long by 130 ft. wide, and is crowned by a Roman barrel- 
vault 90 ft. high, which is decorated with sunken coffers 
after the manner of the Baths of Diocletian. Light is ad- 
mitted through a series of semi-circular windows ; those at 
the two ends of the vaulted roof measuring 75 ft. in diameter, 
and the five on each side wall measuring 30 ft. each. At the 
E. end is a Restaurant ; at the W. end the Ticket lobby with 
accommodations for checking packages. The Smoking-room 
and JVouien's Waiting-room are respectively to L. and R. of 
the main entrance. Beyond the waiting-room is the Passenger 
Coticoiirse or lobby, being one of the largest rooms in the 
world under a single roof : It has been estimated that it 
would provide standing room for an army of 50,000 men. 

Thirty-three tracks enter this station. Twenty of these 
are on a level with the waiting-room ; the remaining 13 enter 
on a lower level 20 ft. below, and seven of these continue 
under the building and southward in a tunnel on the line of 
1st St., passing beneath Capitol Hill at a depth of 40 ft. meas- 
ured from the Neptune Fountain in front of the Library of ! 
Congress. 



NORTH CAPITOL STREET 361 

One block N. of the Post Office on W. side of North 
Capitol St., and extending from G St. to H St., is a group 
of buildings constituting the ^Government Printing Office 
(which must not be confused with the Bureau of Engraving 
and Printing, the latter being a branch of the Treasury 
Department). The main building is an eight-story brick-and- 
steel structure of the modern factory type, and claims to be 
the largest printing plant in the world, having a w^orking 
floor space of 400,000 sq, ft. It w^as completed in 1902 at 
a cost of $2,400,000 — several thousand dollars less than the 
original appropriation. 

Hours. Open to the public daily, excepting Sundays and 
1 holidays, from 10 to 12 A. M. and from i to 2 P. M. Visitors 
are conducted through the building in parties by official 
guides. 

History. Until the middle of the 19th century practically all public 
printing was done by contract, or election, a public printer being ap- 
pointed foil" each House of Congress. In 1852/ this system was changed, 
and the office was created of Superintendent of Public Printins. 
Cornelius Wendell, once public printer for the Senate, put up a large 
establishment on the present site of the Government Printing Office. 
j In i860 this became Government property at a cost of $135,000; and 
I when the office ofl Superintendent was subsequently abolished, and the 
< Senate was authorized to elect a practical printer to take charge of 
; all work for both Houses ;of Congress and all Government Departments, 
. Wendell became one of the first Public Printers. There were then 
approximately 30O' employees. To-day, therei are upward of 4000, more 
■ than one-third of whom are women. It is a Union shop. There are 
' 96 linotype machines, and over 100 presses of various types. 
' The Public Printer acts under direction of the Joint Committee on 

I Printing, created in 1846, and consisting of three members each from 
-j the Senate and the House of Representatives. Its prinoipal dutieis, 
I, as set forth in the Printing Act approved Jan. 12, 1895, are to adopt 
' all necessary measures to remedy any neglect, delay, dupWcation or 
1 waste in the public printing, binding and distribution of Government 
publications; to control the arrangement and style of the C'Ongressional 
Record, and direct the preparation of the Congressional Directory, the 
annual abridgement of messages and documents and other similar 
I publications. 

I The Government Printing Office is remarkable for the 

I enormous size of its operations, rather than for anything 
j unusual in machinery and equipment. Here the visitor may 
1 witness on a vast scale all the varied processes of type- 
I setting, printing and binding, including the interesting opera- 
I tion of gold-lettering and of marbling the edges of books. 
, But the interest centers in the magnitude of the operations 
j witnessed. They include the daily printing of several thousand 
\ copies of the Congressional Record, all bills introduced into 
j Congress, and all bulletins, reports, etc., of the various Gov- 
1 ernment Departments, millions of pamphlets being printed 



262 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

for the Department of Agriculture alone. Other large items 
include money order forms and post cards, the latter alone 
running to over a billion a year. 

Most Government printing matter is distributed free, or used in 
the various Deipartments, but the Superintendent of Public Documents 
is authorized by law to sell any public document in his charge at 
actual cost, unless its disposition is otherwise provided for. Such 
sales run to upwards of five million copies annually. 

Continuing N. we reach, at the N. W. cor. of I St., 
St. Aloysius Church, one of the largest Roman Catholic 
churches in Washington, organized in 1859, and dedicated 
October 15 of that year. It is an unpretentious structure of 
painted brick, with a frontage of 80 ft., and a depth of 160 
ft. It was built from designs by the Rev. B. Sestini, S.J., 
and cost approximately $50,000. 

The painting over the main altar, representing the First Com- 
munion of St. Aloysius, was executed by Constantino Brumidi (p. 61). 
The principal female figure in the picture is said to have been posed 
for by Mrs. Stephen A. Douglas. 

Immediately W. of St. Aloysius church and parochial 
buildings, is Gonzaga College, a Catholic institution founded 
in 1821. by Father Caffery, then Rector of St. Patrick's (p. 
147). The present structure dates from 191 1. 

One block further W., at N.W. cor. of 2d and I Sts., are three 
historic houses, known as Douglas Row. They were built in 1858-59: 
No. 201 by Stephen A. Douglas, Senator from Illinois; No. 203 by John 
C. Breckenridge, then Vice-President; and No. 205 by Henry M. Rice, 
Senator from Minnesota. Breckinridge never occupied his house; Rice, 
lived in No. 205 until the outbreak of the Civil War, when the three 
houses hecame Douglas Hospital. Directly opposite stood Stanton Hos- 
pital, on the site now occupied by the Seaton Public School. No. 201 
was occupied in 1869 by ex-Mayor Richard Wallach (1861-68), and 
later became the Papal Legation, and was occupied for several years 
by the, late ]Mgr. Martinelli. No. 203 was presented, after the war, to j 
William T. Sherman. It is now occupied by the Children's Court. \ 
No. 205 was purchased by a number of prominent citizens, after the I 
close of the war, and presented to General Grant, who lived here until j 
his election to the Presidency. It was later for many years the home 
of Matthew G. Emery, the last Mayor of Washington. i 

No. T140 North Capitol St., between L and M Sts., is the 
Sibley Hospital. West on, M St., at S. W. cor. of 4th St.. j 
is the former home of Charles Warren Stoddard, the poet 
and essayist, and intimate friend of Joaquin Miller. East on Ij 
M. St., at 6th St. and Florida Ave., is the Cohitnbia Institute ' 
for Deaf Mutes (p. 3^)- 

On 1st St. N. W., between N and O Sts.. is the recently 
erected Dunbar High School (dedicated in the spring of \ 
1917), an institution named in memory of Paul Laurence 
Dunbar, the negro poet, and regarded as the finest and best 



NORTH CAFITiOL STREET 363 

equipped Public High School for colored youth in the United 
States. The building and equipment cost $550,000, exclusive 
of grounds. 

On the E. side of North Capitol St., from V to Bryant 
Sts., is the Prospect Hill Cemetery. One block W., at No. 
2122 ist St., between V and W Sts., is the residence of 
Samuel Gompers, since 1882 President of the American Fed- 
eration of Labor. No. 2126 is the home oif James O'Con- 
nell, since 1895 Vice-President of the same organization. On 
the W. side of North Capitol St., extending from Channing 
St. to Michigan Ave., are the extensive grounds of the city 
Filtration Plant; and adjoining it on the W. the New Res- 
ervoir, overlooked on further side by the grounds and build- 
ings of Howard University (p. 430). Opposite the Filtration 
Plant, on E. side of North Capitol St., is Glenwood Cemetery. 

North Capitol St. terminates at Michigan i\ve., which 
forms the southern boundary of the grounds of the Soldiers' 
Home (p. 432). 



364 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

II. From the Capitol Grounds to Columbia Institute 

This section of Washington, comprising approximately 
2^ sq. mi., is largely built over with monotonous rows of 
neat, two-story brick houses, mainly occupied by the thrifty 
middle-class. There is nothing to tempt the casual visitor 
E. of Lincoln Square, except the Eastern High School. 

The Old Capitol Building (PI. I— F3), of which the 
corner portion, No. 25, has . been recently acquired as the 
National Headquarters of the Woman's Party, stands at 
S. E. cor. of First St. and Maryland Ave. N. E. The building 
takes its name from having been erected to accommodate the 
Houses of Congress during restoration of the Capitol after de- 
struction by the Biritish in 1814, In front of this building 
President Aionroe took Oath of Office, March 4th. 181 7. 

The combined cost of purchase and remodelling the old 
building for its new purpose is estimated at $250,000. Formal 
dedication, May 21, 1922. 

History. Until shortly before the War of 1812 the site of the 
Old Capitol remained a garden. Then the corner portion was 'occupied 
b}' Coolidge's Hotel, later To-mlinson's, from 181 2 to 181 4. when it \yas 
burned by the British. Thereupon a committee of citizens, including 
William Law and Daniel Carroll, immediately took steps to provide 
a temporary building for Congress. The future bricks for its walls, 
and timbers for its floors were then unbaked clay and unfelled trees; 
yet desoite this handicap the building was completed and handed over 
to the Government December 4th, 1815. Here both branches of Congress 
continued to hold their sessions until the restoration of their respective 
chambers in the Capitol was completed. 

The Old Capitol Building is described as a dingy red brick edifice 
of the old English style, not unlike the primitive Quaker buildings still 
to be seen in Philadelphia. When abandoned by Congress in 1825, it 
became a fashionable boarding-house. Among its distinguished guests 
was John C. Calhoun, who died here in 1850. The sculptor, Luigi 
Persico, occupied a room here while engaged on the models of his 
works in the Capitol. Anne Royall, known as the "Mother of yellow 
journalism," also resided here. She first appeared in Washington in 
1830, being then more than sixty years of age, and founded and edited 
the Paul Pry, a sort of Town Topics, and in thov^e aays so daringly 
frank that it scandalized society, and brought her many enemies. 
Charges of blackrnail were openly made: but an the other hand she had 
a few_ staunch friends in Congress. Her most famous exploit was in 
interviewing President John Ouincy Adams. The Ftory runs that havinp 
repeatedly failed to obtain an audience, she discovered that the President 
was in the habit of going daily, in the early dawn, through the Presi- 
dential grounds, to the Potqmac for a morning swim; whereupon the 
dauntless old lady followed him one morning, and seating herself ui>oii 
his clothing on the bank, com.pelled the President to remain in the 
water until he had answered her questions. .\nne Royall occupies an 
unmarked grave in the Congressional Cemetery. 

At the commencement of the Civil War the Old Capitol 
Building, then very much out of repair, was converted into a 
prison, for the detention of State and Military prisoner^ 



THE CAPITOL TO CO'LUMBIA INSTITUTE 365 

Among those confined here was the notorious Wirtz, Keeper 
of Andersonville prison, isuibsequently executed (p. 414). In 
the late 6o's the building became the property of a Mr 
Brown, then Sergeant-at-Arms of the Senate, and was re- 
modeled into dwelling houses, ornamented with mansard 
roofs. The corner dwelling was for many years the home of 
Chief Justice Field. 

The Senate Office Building (PI. I — ¥3) occupies the 
square bounded by Delaware Ave. and B, C and First Sts. 
N, E., which corresponds to the site of the House OfBce Build- 
ing at B and First Sts., S. E. (p. 403). Both of these buildings 
were erected under the supervision of Elliott Woods from 
designs by Carrere and Hastings, the House Building having 
received the personal attention of Mr. Hastings, while Mr. 
Carrere was responsible for the Senate Building. Both build- 
ings are on the classic order, but with a French interpretation. 

The Senate Building consists of a rustic lower story and 
two upper stories, surmounted by an entablature and balus- 
trade. The principal, or B St.. iaqade consists of a colon- 
nade of sixteen columns rising through the second and third 
stories, and flanked by porticoes. Unlike the House Office 
Building, the Senate Building is not a hollow square, but 
extends around only three sides of its grounds, leaving the 
central court open on the ist St. side. The exterior walls 
, are of Vermont marble ; the court walls are of Indiana lime- 
' stone. The appropriation for this building was $3,000,000. 

The broad entrance, at the corner of Delaware Ave. 
and G St., opens into a spacio'us rotunda, rising through all 
three stories, and surrounded by an arcade of columns. Be- 

; yond the rotunda, directly N. E. of the entrance, ascend the 
main double stairs, on the Italian Renaissance order. At 
head of stairs, on second floor, is the Senate Caucus Room, 
a spacious chamher finished throughout wiith polished marble, 

I and constituting the show room of the building. 

I East of the Senate Building, at No. 226 Maryland Ave., 
I was the home of the late John A. Joyce, author of "Laugh, 

and the World Laughs With You." The N. lE. cor. of 2d 
I St. and Maryland Ave. is credited with being the only spot 

within the city limits where armed defence was made against 
;the British in 1814. At N. E. cor. of C and 2d Sts. stands 
jthe R. C. Church of St Joseph, organized in 1868, and the 



366 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

original building erected from plans modeled upon the Cologne 
Cathedral. In 1886 it changed from a German to an English 
congregation, and the present brownstone edifice was finished 
and dedicated in 1891 by Cardinal Gibbons. Dimensions, -75 x 
156 ft. ; seating capacity, 1200 ; cost $<8o,ooo. 

Two squares E. on C St. brings us to Stanton Square, 
3^ acres, at intersection of ^Massachusetts and Maryland 
Aves. It contains an equestrian Statue of General Nathanael 
Greene (1742-86), by Henry Kirke Brozvne, erected in 1887 
at a cost of $50,000. 

General Greene held important commands under Washington, and 
especially distinguished himself in his southern campaigns, notably at 
Eutaw Spring and Hobkirk's Hill. He presided over the court which 
condemned Major Andre to death. 

Five squares S. E„ on Massachusetts Ave., is L'ncoln 
Square, containing, at the W. end, Statue of Lincoln popularly 
known as the *Emancipatiox Monument. It is a bronz? 
group, heroic size, representing Lincoln standing, holding in 
his right hand the Proclamation of Emancipation and with 
his left resting upon the shoulder of a crouching negro, whose 
shackles have been broken (modeled by Thomas Ball, 1874; 
cast in Munich by Fred. Muller, 1875. Cos.t $17,000). Be- 
low is the following inscription : 

"FREEDOM'S MEMORIAL: In grateful memory of Abraham 
Lincoln. This monument was erected by the Western Sanitary Com- 
mission of St. Louis, Mo., w'ith funds contributed solely by eman- 
cipated citizens of the L"^nited States, declared free by his Proclama- 
tion, Jan 1st, A.D., 1863." 

The first contribution of Five dollars was made by Charlotte 
Scott, a freed woman of Virginia, being her first earnings in freedom, \ 
and consecrated by her suggestion and request on the day she |i 
heard of President Lincoln's death, to build a monument to his 
memory. 

This monument, 12 ft. high, was unveiled on April 14th, 1876, 
the iith anniversary of Lincoln's assassination. The inaugural oration 
was delivered by Frederick Douglass. 

Returning E. three squares to 8th St., the visitor may 
take a northbound Florida Ave. car w^hich passes the main j 
entrance to the Columlbia Institute for Deaf Mutes (i mi. N.). 

The Columbia Institute for Deaf Mutes (PI. 3— D5). 
including Gallaudet College, the first established schooll 
of higher learning for deaf mutes, occupies a tract 
of about 100 acres, known as Kendall Green and)] 
situated on the N. E. side of Florida Ave., be- 
tween L and O Sts., N. E. The Institution com- 
prises to-day four departments: i. Gallaudet College; 2. 



THE CAPITOL TO COLUMBIA INSTITUTE 2,^7 

The Department of Articulation and Normal Instruction; 3. 
The Kendall School (primary department) ; 4. The Domes- 
tic Department. The collegiate department for 1916-17 shows 
an enrollment of 107 students, 65 male, 42 female. Among 
these forty states are represented. 

History. The Columbia Institute for Deaf Mutes, incorporated hy 
Act of Congress in 1857, had its origin in a small school (founded 
1856), which numbered among its trustees the Hon. Amos Kendall, one 
of Washington's prominent citizens. When the school was dissolved 
(within its first year), five of the pupils, who were deaf mutes, were 
bound over by the Orphans' Court to Mr. Kendall as their guardian, 
and formed the nucleus of the present institution. It was opened 
June 13th, 1857, under the superintendence of Edward Miner Gallaudet, 
son of Thomas Hopkins Gallaudet, founder of the Instruction of the 
Deaf in America. 

At the start the only available funds were an allowance granted 
by the Act of Incorporation, of $150 per annum for each indigent 
pupil from the District of Columbia. In 1858 Congress granted $3000 
per annum for the ensuing five years for salaries and incidental ex- 
penses, at the same time authorizing free admission of deaf or blind 
children of men in service of the U. S. Army or Navy. The original 
ground for the Institution was given by Mr. Kendall, who in 1859 
erected at his own expense the first of the Institution's new buildings, 
immediately adjoining the old frame dwelling previously used. In 1862, 
the number of pupils having increased to 41, Congress appropriated 
i $9000 for additional buildings. In 1864, the attention of Congress 
having been called to the great need of a College for the higher edu- 
cation of the deaf, an Act was passed "to authorize the Columbia In- 
stitution for the Deaf and Dumb and the Blind to confer degrees," 
and on the 8th of April was approved by President Lincoln, then ev 
officio patron of the Institution. This new department, under the name 
of National Deaf-Mute College, was opened in the autumn of 1864 with 
13 students. In the following year Congress provided for the transfer 
of such blind children as were then in the Institution to Baltimore, 
\ and the words "and the Blind" were stricken from the corporate name. 

Amos Kendall, first President of the Institution, resigned in 1864, 
and was succeeded by the former superintendent, Mr. Gallaudet. After 
the death of Mr. Kendall, Congress made appropriations (in 1872-74) 
of more than $80,000 for the purchase of the beautiful eight-acre 
country seat still known as Kendall Green, which adjoined the Institu- 
tion's original grounds on two sides. 

In 1894. Upon petition by the students, the name of the 
collegiate department was changed to Gallaudet College, 
in honor of Dr. Thomas Hopkins Gallaudet. 

The main entrance is on Florida Ave., diagonally op- 
posite /th St., N.E., and near the N.W. corner of tne 
grounds. Directly opposite the entrance is the College cam- 
pus, on the N. side of which are the Professors' houses 
(the largest, that of the President, stands at the extreme 
N.W. corner). Facing the gateway, at the eastern end of 
the campus, is the Gymnasium, built in 1881 at a cost of 
$14,000. The interior arrangement was planned by Dr. D, 
lA. Sargent, Director of the Hemingway Gymnasium of Har- 
j|vard University. Fronting the S. side of the campus is the 



368 RIDER'S WASHINGTON^ 

main College Building, completed in 1877, at a cost of 
approximately $125,000. 

South of the College Building, and structurally con- 
nected with it, is the Chapel, facing Florida Ave. Diag- 
onally opposite the chapel and facing it, is a notable statue- 
group in bronze, representing Dr. Thomas H. Gallaudet ol 
Hartford teaching his little friend, Alice Coggswell, to form 
the letter A. Daniel C. French, sculptor. The statue was 
the gift of. the Deaf of the United States, erected in 1889. 

The pedestal is inscribed: "The Deaf People of the 
United States, in grateful remembrance of Thomas Hop- 
kins Gallaudet, mark the centennial of his Birth with this 
Memorial, 1887" ; "Erected by contributions from every State, 
Territory and District of the United States." 

The Institute grounds were laid out by Frederick Law 
Olmsted. The architect of the main building, chapel, etc., 
was F. C. Withers, of New York. 



WASHINGTON SOUTHEAST 

I. The Library of Congress 

**The Congressional Library (PI. Ill— F5) on the 
square bounded by ist, East Capitol, 2d and B Sts., S. E., 
with its entrance diagonally opposite that of the Capitol, is 
a rectangular structure on the Italian Renaissance order of ar- 
chitecture, measuring 470 ft. N. to S. by 340 ft. E. to W. It 
consists of a basement and two upper stories, relieved by four 
corner partitions, and two central pavilions, on the W. and E. 
facades respectively. From the centre of the rectangle rises 
an octagonal rotunda reinforced by massive buttresses and 
surmounted by a copper dome, the panels of which, between 
the green ribs, are overlaid with 22-carat gold. The dome 
culminates in a lantern crowned with a gilded torch, symbol- 
izing the emitting flame of knowledge. The building oc- 
cupies 3^ acres of its lo-acre cite, and contains approx- 
imately 10 acres of floor space (430,255 sq. ft). It was 
erected under Act of Congress at a cost of $6,925,700, in- 
cluding cost of land ($585,000). 

It was begun in 1886 from plans by /. /. Smithmeyer 
and Paul Pch, subsequently modified by Edivard P. 
Casey. In 1888 General T. L. Casey, Chief of Engineers, 
U. S. A., was placed in charge, with Bernard R. Green as 
superintendent and engineer. The building was completed in 
Feb., 1897, and opened in November. 

Hours. The Library is open to the public from 9 a. m. 
to 10 p.m. dail}^; Sundays and holidays, from 2 to 10 p.m.; 
closed on Christmas and Fourth of July. 

History. The Library of Congress was established by the "Act 
to make provision for the removal! and' accomodation of the Government 
of the United States," approved April 24, 1800, which carried with it 
an appropriation of $5000 for the purchase of books. In Jan., 1802 
John Beckley was appointed first Librarian of Congress, the Library 
then numbering "212 folios, 164 quartos, 58 r octavcxs, 7 duodecimos, 
and 9 maps." During the War of 1812 this modest collection was 
destroyed. It had been housed in a wooden passageway where the 
■Rotunda now stands; and when the Capitol was burned by order of 
Admiral Cockburn, the books were used as kindling for the North 
Wing. Upon learning of the disaster* Thomas Jefferson.^ then living in 
retirement at Monticello, offered toi the Government his own private 
library of 6700 volumes at _ cost price ($23,700), an offer which was 
accepted by Congress. Twice again the Library suffered from fire: 
on Dec. 22, 1825, and much more seriously on Dec. 24, 1851, when 



370 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

more tlian half the books, including two-thirds of the Jefferson collec- 
tion werel destroyed. In 1864 Ainsworth Rand Spofford was appointed 
Librarian, and under his direction the Library showed an amazing 
growth, increasing in 33 years from about 70,000 volumes to 787,715 
vols. This was in large measure due to the passage, in 1870, of an 
amended copyright law placing the entire department in the hands of 
the Librarian of Congregs, and requiring that two copies of every 
copyrighted book must be deposited in the Library of Congress to 
perfect copyright. Since 1897 the collection has more than doubled, 
and is now in the neighborhood of three million printed) books and 
pamphlets and nearly two million other items. The present Librarian 
is Dr. Herbert Putnam, appointed 1899. 

Resources. In addition to purchase of books (for which there is 
an annual appropriation of $98,000), accessions are made by gift, by 
copyright, by receipt of U. S. Government documents, by international 
exchange with foreign governments and by additions/ to the Smithsonian 
deposit. The Library is rich in special collections, acquired since 
1897. The Manuscript Collection is of first importance including the 
Papers of fourteen Presidents (Washington, Jefferson, Madison, Monroe, 
Jackson, Van Buren, Tyler, Polk, Taylor, Pierce, Johnson, (Zleveland, 
Roosevelt and Taft) ; of American Statesmen and politicians such as: 
Benjamin Franklin, Robert Morris, Alexander Hamilton, John M. 
Clayton, Salmon P. Chase, John J. Crittenden, Edwin M. Stanton 
and John Sherman; military papers, including the Pickett papers and 
those of Gen. George B. McClellan and Gen. W. T. Sherman; and 
naval papers, including those of Edward Preble, John Rodgers, David 
Porter and John Paul Jones. There are over 400 volumes of papers of 
the Continental Congress, papers from the files of the House of Repre- 
sentatives: Colonial documentary history; Records of the \'irginia 
Company; Spanish papers of New Mexico and Florida, Philippine and 
Guam documents and upwards of 100,000 folios of transcripts of 
documents relating to American colonial history. Among printed books 
should be mentioned the Weber Library (Sanskrit literature, 4020 vols.), 
including pamphlets; Hattala Library (Slavic, 1500 vols.); the Yudin 
Library (Russian, 80^00 vols.) ; the John Boyd Thacher collection of 
Incunabula (deposited); anrl the Deinard collection of Hebraica (10,000 
titles), gift of Mr. Jacob H. Schiff. The music collection is the most 
extensive in the western hemisphere. The prints include the Gardner 
G. Hubbard collection; the Garrett collection (19,113 prints; on deposit) 
and the George Lothrop Bradley collection (1980 engravings). 

a. General Description and Approaches 

This Library Building, admittedly one of the most artistic ' 
structures in America, both within and without, offers the 
double interest of being, first, the home of America's great ' 
National Library, already one of the great libraries of the 
world ; and secondly, a treasure-house of the best con- 
temporary American art in the departments of sculpture and 
mural paintings. From the central rotunda radiate the book- 
stacks, dividing the interior of the rectangle into four courts, 
those on the E. side measuring 150 x 100 ft., and those on the j 
W. 150x75 ft. It may interest the visitor to note that the ,; 
main life of the library, as a depository and circulating: : 
medium for books, is practically confined to the central read- 
ing-room and the book-stacks, and that all the corridors and 




'>TfM ^ 



^12 RIDER'S \\'ASHINGTON 

pavilions of the enclosing rectangle might be swept away 
•without seriously incommoding the practical book service of 
the library. 

Exterior Decorations. The main or western facade natu- 
rally claims the visitor's chief attention, although a part of the 
scheme of sculptures extends around all four sides. The 
material of the exterior is of Concord (N. H.) granite; the 
buttresses and visible walls of the octagonal rotunda are of 
gray Maryland granite. The basement story is constructed 
of rough or "rock-faced" blocks ; the first or main story is 
more finely dressed and the monotony of the heavy stotie 
work relieved by having the blocks of the pavilion corners 
dressed with vermiculations or "wormings." The granite of 
the second story is smoothly dressed. 

The Central Pavilion, with the sweeping approach of its 
double staircase, and the ordinance of eight pairs of Ionic 
columns on the second elevation, forms the main external 
architectural feature. The steps of the main entrance are 
of Troy (N. H.) granite. They rise on N. and S. from the 
street level meeting half-way up in a central landing, the 
flags of which are red Missouri granite. The W. retaining 
wall of this central landing forms the background of Roland 
Hinton Perry's 
*Neptune Fountain. 

This fountain, directly on the line of the street, is the first 
object which grips the visitor's attention. In the wall behind 
the semi-circular basin are three niches ; the central one is 
occcupied by a colossal bronze figure (12 ft. high) of Neptune, 
God of the Sea; the other two by sea-nymphs joyously bestrid- 
ing plunging sea-horses. Neptune's Realm is further sym- 
bolized by the presence of a bronze sea-serpent and numerous 
bull-frogs and Florida turtles. 

The Dolphins, carved in relief at either side of the niches, 
are by Albert Weinert. 

Before ascending the stairs the visitor should make an 
outside circuit of the library, in order to study its most im- \ 
portant external sculptural feature, the ^Ethnological Heads I 
carved upon the keystones of the thirty-three arched windows ' 
in the main story of the four corner and E, and W, central : 
pavilions. These heads were modeled, some by Willianx ' 
Boyd, and others by Henry J . Ellicott, with the assistance of < 
Prof. Otis T. Mason of the Department of Ethnology in the '^ 
National Museum. Their chief interest lies in the pains taken 1 
to make them accurate, and all the necessary data were j 
provided by the resources of the Smithsonian Institution, Many :1 



THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 2>7?> 

of the heads (as the visitor may see for himself) are copied 
directly from the habitat groups in the Nationnl Museum. 
These heads, grouped so far as was practicable ac- 
cording to racial kinship, are placed in the following order, 
beginning at the N. end of the Entrance Pavilion and continu- 
ing S., and then E., etc., around the building: 

West Central Pavilion, European Types; i. Russian Slav; 2. Blonde 
European; 3. Brunette European; 4. ]\iodern Greek. 

Southwest Pavilion, The Nearer East: 5. Persian; 6. Circassian; 
7. Hindoo; 8. Hungarian (Magyar); 9. Semite (Jew); 10. Arab 
(Bedouin). 

Southeast Pavilion, The East, continued (Australasia): 11. Turk; 
12. iVIodern Egyptian; 13. Abyssinian; 14. Malay; 15. Polynesian; 16. 
Australian. 

East Central Pavilion, Negro Types: 17. Negrito (Indian Archi- 
pelago); 18. Zulu (Bantu); 19. Papuan (New (guinea); 20. Soudan 
Negro; 21. Akka (Dwarf African Negro). 

Northeast Pavilion, Native American Types: 22. Fuegian; 23. 
Botocudo (South America); 24. Pueblo (Zuni, etc.); 25. Esquimaux; 
26. Plains Indian (Sioux, Cheyenne, etc.). 

Northzvest Pavilion, Asiatic Types: 2y. Samoyede (Northern Fin- 
land); 28. Corean; 29. Japanese; 30, Aino; 31. Bunnese; 32. Thibetan; 
33. Chinese. 

The spacious landing at the top of the granite stairway 
rests upon an arch of solid masonry, through which a drive- 
way, running N. and S., gives access to the basement entrance. 
The main story of the central pavilion contains the three 
archways of the main entrance. The second story consists 
of a colonnade of sixteen Corinthian columns, grouped in 
pairs. Behind them are a double row of windows, 
the lower rectangular, and the upper circular. In 
front of these upper windows (which are nine in number, 
including the two side windows on N. and S. respectively) are 
placed a series of granite portrait busts, colossal size, of the 
world's great writers, which are thrown into sharp relief by 
the dark background of the glass. From N. to S. these busts 
'and their sculptors are as follows: i. Demosthenes, by Her- 
Ibert Adams (1858- ); 2. Emerson, by /. Scott Hartley; 
3. Irving, by Hartley : 4. Goethe, by Frederick W. Ruck- 
K^tuhl (1853- ) ; 5. Franklin, by Ruckstuhl; 6. Macaulay, 
!by Ruckstuhl; 7. Hawthorne, by Hartley; 8. Scott, by Adams; 

ig. Dante, by Adams. 
The pediments of the central pavilion are supported by 
four granite Atlantes, colossal size. In the pediment are 
jsculptured American eagles with supporting figures of chil- 
dren. These, as well as the keystones of the circular win- 
dows with standing winged cherubs, are all sculptured by 
\William Boyd. 



374 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Over the three entrance arches are sculptured, in low- 
relief, three pairs of symbolic female figures, typifying Lit- 
erature, Science and Art: (from N. to S.) i. Literature: on 
L.. Creative Work; on R., Meditation; 2. Science: on L., 
female figure with torch and scroll ; on R., female figure 
with celestial globe; 3. Art: on L., Architecture with mallet 
and Doric capital ; on R., Painting with palette and brush. 

The three pairs of massive *Bronze Doors in the main 
entrances are designed to cover symbolically the entire his- 
tory of recorded knowledge, from the primitive oral trans- 
mission to the invention of the printing-press. They are as 
follows : 

1. North Door, by Olin L. Warner (d. 1896). The lu- 
nette represents Tradition, symbolized by a woman of the 
primeval age recounting to a child the traditions of her race. 
Around her are grouped representatives of four primitive 
peoples, accustomed to hand down their traditions orally: 
(.L. to R.) I. Shepherd, with crook, typifying Pastoral Races; 
2. Norseman, with winged cap and battle-axe; 3. Man of 
the Stone Age, with crude stone axe ; 4, American Indian, 
with arrows (modeled from Chief Joseph, of the Nez- 
Perces). The panels in the valves of the door consist of 
symbolic female figures depicting respectively: (L.) Imagina- 
tion, with lyre; (R.) Memory, mourning her dead whose hel- 
met and sword she holds. 

The visitor should note the profuse bas-relief carvings in the stone 
work surrounding the entrance doors, of which no two are alike. The 
decorations tf the N. door consist mainly of grape vines, ivy and Indian 
maize. 

2. Central Door, /;v Frederick IV. MacMonnics (1863- ). 
The lunette represents the Art of Printing. Minerva, god- 
dess of learning, is sending forth her winged messengers bear- | 
ing books to all the world. To R. and L. are the owl of 
wisdom, the stork, emblematic of home, a Pegasus, represent- 
ing poetry, and an old-fashioned printing-press. The in- 
scribed legend is "Homage to Gutenberg'' (inventor of print- 
mg, 1400-68). In panels of valves below are two stately f e- | 
male figures almost identical except for the facial expres-' 
sions, and personifying respectively: (R.) "Intellectus" ; (L.) 
''Humanitas." 

3. South Door, by Olin L. Warner. The lunette sym-' 
bolizes the Art of Writing, in the form of a mother instruct- 
ing her children from a written scroll. Grouped around 
her are representatives of four races whose written record^i 
are conspicuous in history: (L. to R.) i. Greek, with lyre?: 



THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 37=7. 

2. Christian, with cross ; 3. A Jewish Patriarch ; 4. Egyp- 
tian Scribe with stylus. Below on valves of door: (L.> 
Truth, with mirror and serpent; (R.) Research, holding torcK 
The R. valve is inscribed : "Begun by Olin Warner who. 
died 1896. Completed by Herbert Adams. John Williams, 
founder, N. Y." 

Vestibule. Entering the door, the visitor finds himself 
in the vestibule, or western corridor of the Main Entrance 
Hall, which, like the rest of the hall, is finished throughout, 
in white Italian marble. On the pilasters of the western 
wall, and also on the marble piers, supporting the arches 
which sustain the galleries above, are massive brackets sus- 
taining repeated pairs of figures representing Minerva in her 
two capacities as Goddess of War (with sword and torch), 
and Goddess of Wisdom (with scroll and globe), Herbert 
Adams, sculptor. Note the electric lamp standard between 
each pair, modeled after a Greek altar. These statues, as 
well as the lavish ornamentation of the ceiling, are of stucco. 
The abundant gilding of the ceiling is of 22-carat gold. 

The checking desk for umbrellas, parcels and cameras is oil 
R. of entrance. Women's cloak room and lavatory, under S». 
stairway. Men's lavatory in the basement, N. E. cor. of 
entrance pavilion. There is an excellent Restaurant on the 
upper floor. Take elevator. 

b. The Main Entrance Hall 

^^Main Entrance Hall. This hall, occupying, with its. 
surrounding corridors, the whole of the W. central pavilion, 
approximately 125x100 ft, is one of the most lavish and im- 
pressive entrance halls in any building in the world. The 
central portion is open to the roof, a height of 72 ft. It is .in 
almost square rectangle, surrounded on all four sides by 
; massive piers and arches, which sustain the galleries of the 
second floor. Here the piers are replaced by lofty Corinthian 
, columns, grouped in pairs, sustaining the cornice and the huge 
skylight of the ceiling. One feature which should not be 
missed, in spite of the distracting appeal of the countless fres- 
coes and sculptures on all sides, is the beautiful marble floor 
(of the central hall. Directly in the centre is inlaid a huge 
iconventionalized sun of polished brass, whose diverging rays 
point to the twelve brass Signs of the Zodiac, also inlaid in a 
ihuge square skirting the walls of the hall. The floor itself 
consists of a rich variety of marbles, arranged in geometrio 
iPatterns, and including: White Italian marble, Brown Ten= 
nessee, Red French, Red Verona and Yellow Sienna. 



37^ RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

On the N. and S. sides of this central court spacious 
Marble Stairways ascend from W, to E., broken midway by 
a first landing, and again, near the top, by a second, where 
the stairs turn respectively N. and S. ine sculptures on the 
balustrades of these stairways are the most unique feature of 
the decorations, and the chief focus of interest to a majority 
of visitors. The sculptor, Philip Martiny (1858- ), con- 
ceived the whimsical idea of symboling the *Trades, Crafts 
and Professions of modern civilization by a series of charm- 
ingly executed figures of little children in high-relief, each 
with the attributes' of the calling that he represents. This 
series (which, it should be noted, is interrupted at the stair 
landings by other analogous figures to be described later) 
are as follows: 

South Stairway. i. Mechanic, with cog-wheel: 2. Hunter, with 
gun, holding rabbit by ears; 3. V'^intager, with grapes and wine-glass: 
4. Farmer, with sickle and sheaf of wheat; 5. Fisherman, with rod and 
fish; 6. Warrior, with helmet and breast-plate; 7. Chemist, with blow- 
pipe: 8. Cook, with tea-pot. 

North Stairway. 9. Gardener, with spade and rake; 10. Naturalist, 
with specimen box and butterfly-net; 11. Student with mortar-board 
cap and book; 12. Printer, with composing stick and printing-press (note 
the Gutenberg cap) ; 13. iMusician, wearing laurel wreath, with lyre 
and musical score; 14. Physician, with pestle and mortar; 15. Electri- 
cian, with coil of wire and holding telephone to ear (note that the dis- 
ordered hair has been intentionally so wrought as to suggest a bunch 
of thunderbolts); 16. Astronomer, with celestial globe and compasses. 

On the buttresses, supporting the midway landings, are 
pairs of similar child figures, representing the Four Conti- j 
nents; (S. side) America, with Indian feathered headdress 
and necklace of wampum ; and Africa, wooley-headed, with I 
necklace of wild animals' teeth. Between them is a globe j 
turned to show their resipective continents. (N. side) Asia, J 
with a dragon- vase (suggesting her high development in the i 
ceramics); and Europe, with lyre, book and column (sug- ' 
gesting her leadership in the liberal arts). Between them is; 
globe, showing Eastern Hemisphere. \ 

On the (balustrade of each upper landing is a group ; 
three children: S. side, Co-medy, Poetr}^ Tragedy; N. si^le ; 
Painting, Architecture and sculpture, each distinguished b> 
appropriate attributes. 

The Commemorative Arch. On E. side of the Staircasf; 
Hall is a portico opening upon the passage to the Reading 
Room, and serving as a sort of triumphal arch, commeffllj 
orating the erection of the Library. In the spandrels of M 
arch are The Students, by Olin L. Warner, tv/o sculpture 
figures typifying the developnient of the scholar's mind. Oijl 



THE LIB.RARY OF CONGRESS yjj 

L. is a youth seeking knowledge from books ; on R, is an 
old man absorbed in meditation upon knowledge already 
acquired. Along the frieze, inscribed in gilt letters, are the 
words LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. In the marble tablet 
forming center of the parapet above is the following inscrip- 
tion : 

Erected Under the Acts of Congress of 

ApRiLi 15 1886 October 2 1888 and March 2 1889 by 

Brig. Gen, Thos. Lincoln Casey 

Chief of Engineers U. S. A. 

Bernard R. Green Supt. and Engineer 

John L. Smithmeyer Architect 

Paul J. Pelz Architect 
Edward Pearce Casey Architect 

c. The Mural Paintings 

The **Mural Paintings, Mosaics and Symbolic Orna- 
mentations on the walls and ceilings of the main floor of the 
Library will be found not only in the North, South and West 
corridors of the Entrance Hall, but also in the Vestibule to 
Main Reading Room, the North and South Curtain Cor- 
ridors, the House and Senate Reading Rooms and the north- 
jwest Pavilion. 

I Entrance Hall, North Corridor: Seven Lunette Murals, 
fby Charles S. Fearce, idealizing the Pleasures and Duties of 
a quiet and uplifting Family Life. 

East Wall: i. The Family, group of seven figures in Arcadian 
'setting; the father has just returned from hunting; his little daughter 
'and young wife with child in her arms advance to meet him, while on 
(R. and L. are his sister and aged parents. South Wall (immediately 
adjoining): 2. Rest, two young girls with water-jugs, seated beside a 
pool; North Wall (E. to W.) 3. Recreation, two young girls, the one 
seated, playing on Panpipes, the other with cymbals, dancing; 4. 
Study: two young girls seated, with books, scrolls and compasses; 6. 
Religion: a man and women kneeling before a rude stone altar, ironi 
I wliich rises the smoke of a burnt-olfering. 

rp West End Wall : Two floating female figures in white 
drapery, supporting a tablet bearing the following aphorism 
;from Confucius : "Give instruction to those who cannot pro- 

[jcure it for themselves." 

i,| The Mosaic Ceilings in this and the other corridors sur- 
^rounding the Entrance Hall contain an Honor List of men 
illustrious in their several vocations. The Mosaics were all 
made from cartoons by Herman T. Schladcrnnmdt (b. 1863), 
after designs by E. P. Casey. 

I. The North Corridor Ceiling is devoted to the Great 
i Educators. Through the center of the ceiling are com- 
memorated, in logical sequence, from E. to W., the four 



378 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

great formative influences: i. Science, which beginning with 
the discovery of fire, laid the foundation of civilized life; 
2. The Family, where in primitive times the child received 
his only training; 3. Education, the systematic discipline of 
the school; 4. Art, embracing those forms of higher culture 
for which the earlier training has prepared the student. The 
several branches of science and art here enumerated are 
respectively: Mathematics, Chemistry, Geology, Physics and 
Astronomy; Painting, Sculpture, Architecture, Poetry and 
Music. 

In the curves of the vaulting are inscribed the names 
of ten Educators, as follows: S. side (E. to W.) i. Howe; 
2. Gallaudet ; 3. Mann; 4. Arnold; 5. Spencer; N. side (W. 
to E.) 6. Froebel; 7. Pestalozzi; 8. Rousseau; 9. Comenius; 
10. Ascham. 

North Curtain Corridor, entered from N. E. cor. of pre- 
ceding corridor, and extending N. along N. W. inner court, 
contains nine Lunette Paintings by Edward Simmons, represent- 
ing the Nine Muses. The visitor should note especially the 
bold color-scheme of these murals and the transition from 
the glowing red of the first, to the splendid blue of the last 
of the series. On W. side of corridor, beneath the odd- 
numbered lunettes, are doors opening into administration i 
ofifices. In the wall-spaces beneath the alternate lunettes are 
inscribed verses by Alexander Pope. j 

South End Wall (over entrance door) : i. Melpomene: 
Muse of Tragedy, clad in vivid red and with tragic mask;' 
she is flanked by two small genii bearing laurel wreath and 
burning brazier; West Wall (from S. to N.) : 2. Clio, Muse 
of History, with torch and wreathed helmet, symbols of fame 
and heroic deeds; 3. Thalia, Muse of Comedy; she is accom-j 
panied by a youthful satyr with Pan's-pipes, and flanked by 
wreaths of daisies; below are the lines: 

"Descend, ye Nine, descend and sing; 
Wake into voice each silent string." 
4. Euterpe, Muse of Lyric Poetry, as symbolized by her attri- 
bute, a flute; 5. Terpsichore, Muse of the Choral Dance; she 
is represented as clashing cymbols and dancing within thfl 
curve of a white marble exedra. Below is the couplet: 

'*Oh, Heaven-born sister, source ot art, 
Who charm the sense or mend me heart." 

6. Erato, Aluse of Erotic Poetry, a seated female figure, holdii 
ing a white rose; beside her is a recirvbent lioness, symbol 
of the power of woman's love; 7. Polyhymnia, Muse 0^ 



THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 379 

Sacred Song; she holds in her lap an open illuminated text; 
beside her are wreaths of Easter lilies; below are the fol- 
lowing Hnes : 

"Say, will you bless the bleak Atlantic Shore, 
And in the West bid Athens rise once more?" 

8. Urania, Muse of Astronomy, a seated figure in a dusky 
robe brocaded with gold suggesting the glimmer of stars; 
her attributes are a sextant and a celestial globe; North End 
Wall: 9. Calliope, Muse of Epic Poetry; she is clad in a robe 
of vivid peacock blue and her attributes are a scroll and pea- 
cock feathers. 

The door beneath the Calliope lunette leads into the 
Northwest Pavilion; which contains an exhibition of maps 
and charts. This room, in shape an irregular octagon, is 
finished in deep Pompeiian red. The six window-bays on the 
N. and W. sides are decorated with the twelve signs of the 
zodiac, by Mills Thompson. The six corresponding panels 
3n the E. and S. walls, together with the four panels on the 
four narrow diagonal walls that cut off the corners of an 
otherwise square chamber, contain a series of ten floating, 
white-draped figures of Roman Dancing Girls, by William 
4e Leftmich Dodge. 

'' The Division of -Maps and Charts occupies the North 
'tiall, reached through the E. door of the Pavilion. 

1 Retracing his steps, the visitor should next proceed to : 
1 Entrance Hall, South Corridor, containing a series of 
^tiurals celebrating Lyric Poetry, by Henry Oliver Walker 
(b. 1843). The series includes one dominant painting, The 
Muse of Lyric Poetry, and six smaller murals consisting of 
dealized presentments of some of the more famous Poets' 
Boys. 

East End Wall : Euterpe, Muse of Lyric Poetry, stands 
laurel-crowned in the midst of her attendants. On her R. 
ire Passion, with uplifted arm; Beauty, seated, serene in her 
;elf-satisfaction ; and Mirth, a merry, childish figure; on L. 
ire Pathos, with eyes raised to Heaven ; Truth, a standing 
'igure completely nude; and Devotion, kneeling with bowed 
liead. 

j^ The Poets' Boys: North Wall (E. to W.): i. Milton's Comus, 
I pepicting the enchanter, Comus, in the guise of a shepherd seated in 

(he woods with finger on lip, entranced at hearing the song of the Lady. 
iThe picture is based on the lines: , 

"Can any mortal mixture of earth's mould 
Breathe such divine, enchanting ravishment?" 



38o RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

2. Shakespeare's Adonis (in "V'^enus and Adonis"), beloved of Venus, 
Jies naked on the ground, slain by a wild boar; South Wall (E. to W.); 
J. Tennyson's Ganymede (in "Palace of Art"), the boy, who is to 
replace Hebe as cup-bearer of the gods, gazes heavenward as he is borne 
toward Olympus on the back of Jupiter in the guise of an eagle; the 
lines which suggest this picture are: 

. "Flushed Ganymede, his rosy thigh 
Half-buried in the Eagle's down, 
Sole as a flying star shot thro' the sky 
Above the pillar'd town." 

4. Keat's Endymion, the boy beloved of Diana, asleep on Mt. Latmos 
beneath the rays of the crescent moon; 5. Wordsworth's Boy of Wynan- 
der, seated beside the lake with hands clasped about his knee, and eyes 
fixed in wrapt attention; 6. Emerson's Uriel (in "The Lapse of Uriel"), 
representing the audacious angel where he has retired in scorn and 
anger because of the hostility with which his companions had received 
his proposition : 

"Line in nature is not found; 

Unit and universe are round; 

In vain produced, all rays return; 

Evil will bless, and ice will burn." 

West End Wall: This semi-circular mural above the 
window arch is an idealized presentment of Joy and Memory. 
Joy IS attended by a boy with a lamb. Memory sits brood- 
ing before a sculptured marble. Between these groups are 
inscribed the following lines from Wordsworth: 

"The Poets who on earth have made us heirs 
Of truth and pure delight by heavenly lays." 

In the Mosaic of the vault are inscribed the names of the World's 
Great Lyric Poets. The six occupying the N. side penetrations are 
Americans: (E. to W.) : i. Poe; 2. Whitman; 3. Bryant; 4. Whittier; 
5. Lowell; 6. Longfellow. In the S. penetrations (E. to W.) are: 7. 
Heine; 8. Hugo; 9. Musset; 10. Byron; 11. Shelley; 12. Browning. 
In the center of the ceiling are eight Poets of the (Classic period .and 
the Renaissance: 13. Pindar; 14. Theocritus; 15. Anacreon; 16. Sappho; 
17. Catullus; 18. Horace; 19. Petrarch; 20. Ronsard. 

South Curtain Corridor. The windows of this corridor 
face the S. W. inner court. It leads to the House and Senate 
Reading Rooms, and to the Periodical Room in the S. hall. 
The murals in this corridor comprise a series of nine lunettes 
representmg The Greek Heroes, by Walter McEwen (b. 

ir 



North End Wall: i. Paris, son of Priam, King of Troy, is here 
represented when visiting at the Court of Menelaus, King of Sparta, 
whose wife, Helen, has been promised him by Venus as a recompensef 
for awarding to her, as most beautiful of goddesses, the Apple of Dis 
cord. His subsequent abduction of Helen precipitated the Trojan War 
the theme of Homer's Iliad. 



East Wall: 2. Jason: Pelias, King of lolchos, warned by an oradei 
to beware of his nephew Jason, sends the latter across the sea to Colchis,] 
in search of the Golden Fleece, which hung in a grove sacred to Mars, 
guarded by a sleepless dragon. In the mural Jason is depicted when; 



THE LIBRARY OF COiNGRESS 381 

urging other Grecian heroes to form members of his famous band of 
"Argonauts." Beneath this lunette is the following quotation from 
Tennyson's "Ulysses": 

"One equal temper of heroic hearts, 
Made weak by time and fate, but strong in will 
To strive, to seek, to find, and not to yield." 

No. 3. Bellerophon: Proteus, King of Argos, disliking his kins- 
man, plans to have him slain, and indirectly sends him to destroy a horri- 
ble monster known as the Chim£era. The artist has depicted Bellerophon 
receiving from Minerva a golden bridle with which he subsequently 
guides the winged horse Pegasus to a successful termination of his 
errand. 

No. 4. Orpheus: Bacchus, angered because Orpheus refused to 

worship him, inflamed his priestesses, the Bacchantes, to attack the 

poet. The artist has depicted the death of Orpheus during a 

Bacchanalian orgy. Below is the following quotation from Tennyson's 

1 "Guinevere": 

"A glorious company, the flower of men 
To serve as model for the mighty world, 
And be the fair beginning of a time." 

No. 5. Perseus: King Polydectes, madly in love with Danae, 
mother of Perseus, sent the latter to slay the gorgoii; Medusa, whose 
face turned to stone everyone who looked upon it. The picture shows 
Perseus rescuing his mother from a forced marriage with Polydectes 
' by exhibiting the severed head of Medusa in the Court dining-room, 
'and turning the whole company to stone. 

I No. 6. Prometheus : Jupiter, wishing to avenge the theft by 
I Prometheus of fire from heaven, created Pandora, the first woman, and 
,sent her to earth laden with a box containing all human ills. Prome- 
theus is here depicted vainly warning his brother, Epimetheus against 
accepting Pandora as his bride. Beneath this lunette is the following 
quotation from Charles Kingsley: 

j "To the souls of fire, I, Pallas Athena, give more fire; and to those 

sjwho are manful, a might more than man's." 

'j _ No. 7. Theseus. Through the aid of Ariadne, daughter of Minos, 
.'King of Crete, Theseus accomplished his task of slaying the savage 
■monster, Minotavir, confined in a Labyrinth, to which Athens had been 
for years forced to send an annual tribute of youths and maidens. 
:After fulfilling his mission Theseus bore Ariadne away with him to the 
Island of Naxos where, as depicted in this mural, he deserted her at 
the command of Minerva. 
[j No. 8. Achilles: Thetis, the mother of Achilles, having been 
^forewarned that her son would meet an early death, sent him to 
iLycomedes to be clothed and reared as a maiden. At the outbreak of 
the Trojan War the Greeks were informed by an oracle that the city 
:ould be taken only through the aid of Achilles. The crafty Ulysses, 
'iisguised as a pedlar, and bearing among his wares feminine trinkets 
iind weapons of war, discovers Achilles when the latter impulsively 
phooFes a sword and shield. Beneath this mural are inscribed the follow- 
ing lines from Byron's "Childe Harold": 

"j "Ancient of days! august Athena! 

I Where are thy men of might? thy grand in soul? 

Gone — glimmering through, the dream of things that were.'' 

South End Wall: No. 9. Hercules, The Hero of Seven Labors, 
.laving killed a man, was sold as a slave to Omphale, Queen of Lydia. 
|Ie became so completely enamored of her that, to meet her caprice, he 
vore female garments and spun among the female slaves, as here de- 
leted by the artist. 

li 



382 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

The Representatives' Reading Room, one of the most 
lavishly ornamented rooms in the Library, extends along the 
W. side of the Hall of Greek Heroes, from which it opens 
through three doors, situated respectively beneath Belle- 
rophon, Perseus and Theseus. Over these doors, on inner 
side, are richly carved oak tympanums, each vi^ith a central 
cartouche; that of the central door bears Minerva's owl, 
flanked on either side by seated youths ; the cartouches over 
side doors display the American eagle, between two cherubs. 
Charles B. Niehans, sculptor. 

The chief single attractions in this room are the two su- 
perb mantels at the opposite ends. They are mainly of yellow 
Sienna marble, but the Ionic columns supporting the heavy 
cornice are of richly veined gray Pavannazzo marble. Note 
especially in center of cornice a small cartouche of peacock- 
blue Labrador spar, in N. mantel, and of green onyx, in S. 
mantel. Over each fire-place, flanked by the columns, is a| 
large mosaic panel, 7^ ft. wide and approximately 3V2 ft, J 
high, made in Venice, from cartoons by Frederick Dielmanl 
(b. 1847). j 

The North Mantel Pane! represents The Law. Enthroned in iht{ 
center sits the Majesty of the Law, personified as a beautiful woman,! 
with head surrounded by a halo. In her right hand she holds a paln| 
branch, the reward of merit; in her left, an avenging sword. Het| 
other attributes are a law-book, the scales of justice and a pair of doves n 
symbolizing Mercy. On her right are Truth, holding lilies; Peace j| 
with olive-branch; Industry, with wheel and hammer; on her left arf) 
Fraud, a wrinkled crone; Discord, with disheveled hair, and holdiiu*i 
knotted serpents; and sullen Violence, wearing a steel cap, while besidfj* 
him flames the torch of Anarchy. I 

The South Mantel Panel tyi)ifies History. She is a commandinfji 
figure, holding a pen and a book, and stands between two tablets, oU 
which are enrolled the names of great historians: West Tablet 
Herodotus, Thucydides, Polybius, Livy, Tacitus, Baeda, Comincsi 
East Tablet, Hume, Gibbon, Niebuhr, Guizot, Ranke, Bancroft, Mot!c>,| 
At the foot of each tablet is a wreath, the one of laurel, the other 0[ 
oak leaves, respective symbols of Peace and War. Seated on R. and L 
of History are two sybifline figures. Mythology and Tradition: the forme 
with winged Sphynx and globe, expounds the old myths, of the world's 
creation, the latter relates to a young boy the legendary tales of thj 
Middle Ages. In the background may be seen: i. (behind History) 
Grecian Temple; 2. (behind Mythology) an Egyptian Pyramid; 3. (b« 
hind Tradition) a Roman Amphitheatre. 

The Seven Ceiling Paintings represent The Spectrum o( 
Light, by Carl Guther::. In the center of each panel is 
figure symbolizing some great achievement ; the dominar 
color tone in each case being one of the seven primar 
colors. At the four corners of each panel are pairs of chefi} 
ubs, symbolizing the various arts and sciences. The ord* 
of the subjects and colors as planned by the artist begiil 

I 



THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS s^J 

with the middle panel, yellow; proceeds S. through orange, 
red and violet, then N. from centre through green, blue 
and indigo. For practical purposes, however, it is simpler 
to take them in their natural order upon the ceiling: 

(S. to N.) I. Violet, the Light of State. The central figure i* 
Columbia, symbolizing the United States as the ideal form of govern- 
ment, wliose National colors, red, white and blue unite to form violet. 
Cherubs in corners: i. Justice; 2. Liberty; 3. Equality; 4. Suffrage. 

No. 2. Red, the Light of Poetry. Central figure, the Spirit of 
Poetry mounted upon Pegasus. Cherubs in corners: i. Tragedy and 
Comedy; 2. Lyric Poetry; 3. Pastoral Poetry; 4. Fable. 

No. 3. Orange, the Light of Excellence. Central figure, Progress, 
ascending the steps of a pryamid. Cherubs in corners: i. Sculpture and 
Architecture; 2. Transportation; 3. Telephone and Phonograph; 4. In- 
vention and Design. 

No. 4. Yellow, the Light of Creation. Central figure, the Spirit 
of the Lord, who, from the midst of clouds, issues the command, "Let 
there be Light." Cherubs in corners: i. Physics; 2. Metaphysics; 3. 
Psychology; 4. Theology. 

No. 5. Green, the Light of Research. Central figure, the Spirit 
of the Lens, surrounded by the sea, whose teeming life affords her aa 
infinite field of investigation. Cherubs in corners: i. Microscopy; 2. 
Chemistry; 3. Archaeology; 4. Mineralogy. 

No. 6. Blue, the Light of Truth. Central figure, the Spirit of 
Truth trampling upon the Dragon of Ignorance. Cherubs in corners: 
symbolize the Universal Law by attributes of the level, the plumb-line,. 
etc. 

No. 7. Indigo, the Light of Science. Central figure, Astronomy,, 
studying the stars under the guidance of the soul, personified as a but- 
terfly. All the corner cherubs have astronomical attributes. 

Through the S. door of the corridor we enter a small' 
lobby, richly finished in Vermont marble, with panels of Sienna 
marble, and golden ceiling. From this lobby the E. door 
enters upon the Periodical Room, and the W. door upon the 
'^Senate Reading Room. The chief features of this dignified 
•oom are the oaken dado, ornamented with inlaid arabesques 
of white mahogany ; the paneled gold ceiling, con- 
taining in each of its six square panels four female 
figures with garlands, modeled by William A. Mackay (b.. 
[878) ; a fireplace of Sienna marble, with a sculptured panel 
)y Herbert Adams (who also did the carved panel of the 
|)aken tympanum over entrance door) ; and on E. side a low 
i^allery, suggesting an Italian loggia, with carved balustrade 
)f Sienna marble. 

I Entrance Hall, East Corridor. Returning to the En- 
ranee Hall we may next visit, in the E. corridor, the six 
'nurals by John W. Alexander (1856-1915), illustrating *The; 

llVOLUTION OF THE BoOK : 



384 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

South End Wall (E. to W.) : i. The Cairn, showing men 
of the stone-age erecting a pyramid of huge stones, to com- 
memorate some important event; 2. Oral Tradition, showing 
an Arab Story-teller relating to his kinsmen the Traditions 
of the Tribe; West Wall (S. cor.) : 3. Hieroglyphics, show- 
ing an Egyptian stone-cutter carving an inscription on a new 
tomb; (N. cor.) : 4. Picture Writing, depicting an American 
Indian tracing a record on an animal hide, while a young 
Indian girl lies on the ground watching him; North Wall 
(W. to E.) : 5. The Manuscript Book, showing mediaeval 
Monks patiently inscribing and illuminating missals ; 6. Print- 
ing, showing Gutenberg, the inventor of printing, in his office 
examining a proof-sheet, while beside him an apprentice is 
busily working a primitive press. 

The visitor should note how admirably the artist has triumphed 
over the handicap of insufficient light in this corridor, by free employ- 
ment of white in his backgrounds and a generous use of yellows and 
browns in his figures and draperies. 

The vaulting of this corridor has been devoted to a sortj 
of Hall of Fame for great Americans in the various branches) 
of the Arts and Sciences. The scheme of this Honor Roll^' 
IS as follows : i. In the ten pendentives at the ends and; 
along the sides of the corridor ceiling are ten "Trophies"' 
or mosaic panels, symbolizing the several Arts and Sciences; 
2. Below each Trophy are the names of two Americans dis-l 
tinguished in that particular branch ; 3. In the central vault 
of the ceiling are inscribed the three great 'professions, Med 
cine. Theology and Law; and 4. Flanking them are lists 
America's famous professional men. 

Trophies and Associated Names: South Pendentive: i. Architecj 
ture (Ionic capital, hammer and chisel); below, Latrobe and Waltt r 
West Pendentives (S. to N.) : 2. Music (lyre, flute and musical score) 
below, Gottschalk and Mason; 3. Painting (palette, brushes and sketcl 
book); below, Stuart and AUston; 4, Sculpture (ancient torso an 
sculptor's tools); below. Powers and Crawford; 5. Poetry (a youth wit 
lyre mounted on Pegasus; below, Emerson and Holmes; North Pendei] 
live; 6. Natural Science (a microscope and sea-horse); below. Say a 
Dana; East Pendentives (N. to S.): 7. Mathematics (compass, s'qiu 
and abacus); below, Pierce and Bowditch; 8. Astronomy (celestial glob 
with Zodiac); below. Bond and Rittenhouse; 9. Engineering (quadran 
anchor, level, etc.): below, Francis and Stevens; 10. Natural Philosophy 
(scales and a crucible); below, Cooke and Silliman. 

Along the central vault of the corridor are inscribed (S. to N. 
I. Medicine: Gross, Wood, McDowell, Rush, Warren; 2. Law: Curtij 
Webster, Hamilton, Kent, Pinckney, Gibso^, Story, Marshall, Tanei 
Shaw; 3. Theology: Beecher, Channing, Mather, Edwards, Brooks. 

Separated from the East Corridor by an Arcade, is tW 
broad passageway divided by a second! Arcade into two trad 

I 



THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 385 

•verse lobbies, forming the entrance to the Central Rotunda, 
or Main Reading Room. In the second lobby are a series 
of five murals representing *Government, by Elihu Vedder: 

East Wall: i. (over central doorway) Government, the personifica- 
tion of an ideal Republic, represented as a woman of grave and majestic 
mien, crowned with a wreath and holding in her left hand a sceptre, 
symbolic of the Golden Rule, and in her right a tablet with inscription 
quoted from Lincoln's Gettysburg Address, '"A' Government of the peo- 
ple, by the people, for the people." Slie is flanked by winged geniuses 
holding respectively the sword of Justice and the bridle of Moderation; 
2. (on S.) Good Administration, seated female figure on a marble throne, 
the frame of which ns an arch, symbolic of the even distribution of 
rights and duties in a Democracy. In her right hand are evenly 
balanced scales; her left rests upon a quartered shield, symbolic of the 
equality of classes and parties. On her left a youth, casting his vote, 
holds a book, emblem of intelligence. On her right a young girl win- 
nows the chaff from the wheat; South End Wall: 3. Peace and Pros- 
perity: Peace is crowned with an olive wreath, and is flanked on either 
side by youths typifying respectively, Agriculture and the Arts. In 
tne background is a fertile landscape, symbolic of prosperity; East 
Wall, N. of center: 4. Corrupt Legislation, personified as a seductive 
Dut depraved woman, enthroned between cornucoi)ias overflowing with 
surplus revenue. With her right hand she scornfully dismisses thinly 
clad Labor; in her left hand she holds a sliding scale (symbol of in- 
justice) on which a rich man is placing a bag of gold; North End 
jWali : 3. Anarchy, a nude female figure brandishing a wine cup and 
hre-brand, and madly trampling upon the ruins of civilization; on L. 
and R. she is aided by Violence, who is destroying a Greek Temple, and 
'by Ignorance, who is thrusting the general wreckage into an abyss. 

I- The main floor of the Rotunda is reserved for visitors 
jwishing to use the library for reference purposes. Mere 
.sight-seers, especially if in numbers, are properly excluded. 

I The library, however, is open free for reference to the public without 
^any formalities, and it is well worth while, if time permits, to make use 
|0f its privileges at least once, if only as an excuse for spending an 
•Ihour in this beautiful R.eading Room, studying the methods of service, 
and getting certain architectural effects which cannot be properly ap- 
preciated from, the visitors' gallery (p. 399). 

Second Story Decorations. The murals, arabesques, and 
jother decorations on the second floor include the Entrance' 
Hall Arcade, the northwest and southwest Galleries and the 
ijfour corner Pavilions. 

I The second floor is reached, either by the grand staircase from the 
lEntrance Hall, or l>y elevator from Reading Room lobby. In the 
'Arcade surrounding the four sides of tlie oph\ central hall, are the most 
brilliant and lavish decorations, both in variety and range of color, 
jcontained in the library. The scheme was all worked out originally by 
f-dward Pearce Casey, and elaborated mainly in respect to coloring by 
^Elmer E. Garnsey. The color scheme, comprising blue in the penden- 
Itives, golden yellow in the penetrations, and grayish white in the main 
body of the vaulting, is said to iiave been adapted from the well-known 
jLibrary in Sienna 

i 



386 



RIDER'S WASHINGTON 



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THE LIBRARY O'F CONGRESS 3^7 

The decorations of the Arcades consist of: i. Four 
series of paintings by specially commissioned artists; 2. Four 
series of Printers' Marks, arranged according to nationalities ; 
3. Hinton Perry's bas-reliefs; and 4. George IV. Maynard's 
Pompeiian panels. 

Entrance Hall, Second Story, West Corridor: The Sci- 
ences, by Walter Shirlazv, a series of eight frescoes, occupying 
the pendentives of the vault, in each of which a Science 
is symbolized by a female figure, heroic size, the symbolism 
being carried out not only in the attributes but in the color 
scheme : e.g., in Zoology, browns and yellows, the common- 
est colors among animals ; and in chemistry, purple, blue and 
red, the colors most frequently met with in chemical experi- 
ments. These frescoes occupy the following order : 

West Wall (N. to S.) : i- Geology, holding in left hand the Earth, 
and in her right a fossil shell; 2. Mathematics, almost nude (the Naked 
Truth), standing on a stone block inscribed with conic sections, and 
holding a shield bearing geometric devices; 3. Physics, bearing a torch, 
symbol of one of the greatest physical forces; 4. Zoology, clad in a wild 
animal's pelt, and with fingers intertwined in the mane of a crouching 
lion. 

East Wall (S. to N.) : 5. Chemistry, holding a retort; 6. Astronomy, 
holding in right hand a lens, and in left the planet Saturn with its 
rings; 7. Botany, standing on a lily-pad and examining a pond lily; 8. 
Archaeology, studying an ancient book, wears Roman garb and the helmet 
of Minerva; beside her is a Zuni vase; and around her neck a chameleon, 
symbolizing the changing views of the archaeologists. 

On the end walls are inscribed the names of eight illus- 
trious representatives of the Sciences portrayed. 

North End Wall: i. La Grange, the mathematician; 2. Lavoisier, 
the chemist; 3. Rumford, the physicist; 4. Lyell, the geologist. Flanking 
these names are two quotations: 

a. (on L.): "All are but parts of one stupendous whole 

Whose body Natui'e is, and God the Soul." Pope. 

b. (on R.) : "In nature all is useful, all is beautiful." Emerson. 
South Wall: 5. Cuvier, the zoologist; 6. Linnaeus, the botanist; 

7. Schliemann, the archaeologist; 8. Copernicus, the astronomer. The 
accompanying quotations are: 

c. (on L.) "The first creature of God was the light of sense, the 
last was the light of reason." Bacon. 

d. (on R.) "The light shineth in the darkness, and the darkness 
comprehendeth it not." St. John I, 5. 

Through the middle of the vaulted ceiling are three 
medallions representing the Arts, executed by William B. Van 
Ingcn (b. 1858) : 

(N. to S.) I. Sculpture, completing a bust of Washington; 2. 
Architecture, drafting a ground plan; 3. Painting, holding palette and 
brush. 

Above the five windows, on W., are the following quotations (N. 
to S.): 



388 RIDER'S WASHINGTOxN 

I. "The foundation of every state is the education of its youth." 
Dionysins. 

' 2. "Glory is acquired by virtue, but preserved by letters." Petrarch. 

3. "Books will speak plain when counsellors blancih." Bacon. 

4. "The history of the world is the biography of great men." 
Carlyle. 

5. "Art is long and time is fleeting." Lcmgfellow, "Psalm of 
Life." 

The Printers' Marks in this corridor are those of German 
printers, and extend along the curving sides of the vault above 
Shirlaiv's Sciences. 

They comprise the following: ]Vest Side (N. to S.) : i. Jacobus 
Pfortzeim (1488-1518); 2. Conrad Baumgarten (1503-05); 3. Craft 
Mueller (1536-62); 4. Fust and Schoeffer (1457); 5. Wolfgang Koep- 
fel (1523). 

East Side (S. to N.) : 6. Theodosius and Josias Rihel (1535-1639); 
7. Melchior Lotter (1491-1536); 8. Martin Schott (1498); 9. Valentin 
Kobian (1532-42); 10. Cratander (1519). 

Entrance Hall Arcade continued: North Corridor: The 
principal decorations here are two series of murals by Robert 
Rcid (b. 1862), comprising: A. Four circular panels on the 
N. wall, each representing a half-length seated female figure, 
symbolizing respectively (W. to E.) : i. Wisdom; 2. Under- 
standing; 3. Knowledge; 4. Philosophy; B. The Five Senses. 
five octagonal panels along the vault (W. to E.) : i. Taste, 
drinking from a sea-shell ; 2. Sight, smiling at her own beauty 
reflected in a mirror; 3. Smell, seated beside a bank of 
flowers inhaling the fragrance of a rose ; 4. Hearing, listening 
to the murmur of a shell pressed to her ear; 5. Touch, enjoy- 
ing the curious sensation caused by a butterfly which has 
alighted on her bare arm. 

Alternating with Mr. Reid's ceiling frescoes is a series of 
six rectangular panels, done in a style suggesting classic bas- 
"relief, and depicting (W. to E.) : i. Throwing the Discus: 
2. Wrestling; 3. Running; 4. The Finish; 5. The Wreath of 
Victory; 6. The Triumphal Return. 

The N. and S. pendentives of the vault are occupied by 
medallions containing Trophies of the Trades and Sciences, 
alternating with tablets inscribed with verses from Adelaide 
A. Procter's poem, "Unexpressed." 

The Trophies are as follows: North Side (W. to E.) : i. Geometry 
(scroll, compass and quadrant): 2. Meteoroloe-"' (Thermometer, barom- 
eter and rain gauge); 3. Fore-try (trees, axe and pruning knife); 
South Side (E. to W.) : 4. Navigation (rudder, rope, sailor's knot, 
etc.); 5. Mechanics (pulley, lever and wedge); 6. Transportation (pis- 
ton, propeller, driving-wheel and head-light). 

The quotations in the alternate pendentives (in the same 
order) are: 



THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 389 

"Dwells within the soul of every Artist 

More than all his effort can express." 

"No great Thinker ever lived and taught you 

All the wonder that his soul received." 

"No true painter ever set on canvas 

All the glorious vision he conceived." 

"No musician, 

But be sure he heard, and strove to render, 

Feeble echoes of celestial strains." 

5. "No real poet ever wove in numbers 
All his dreams." 

6. "Love and Life united 
Are twin mysteries, different, yet the same." 
"Love may strive, but vain is the endeavor 
All its boundless riches to unfold." 
"Art and Love speak; but their words must be 
Like sighings of illimitable forests." 

The following quotations are inscribed in panels above 
the doors and windows : 

West End Wall: i. "The chief glory of every people arises from 
its authors." Dr. Johnson. 

North Wall: 2. "There is one only good, namely, knowledge, and 
one only evil, namely, ignorance." Socrates. 

3. "Knowledge comes, but wisdom lingers." Tennyson. 

4. "Wisdom is tlie principal thing; therefore get wisdom; and 
with all thy getting get understanding." Proverbs iv, 7. 

5. "Ignorance is the curse of God, 

Knowledge the wing wherewith we fly to Heaven." Shakespeare. 

6. "How charming is divine Philosophy," Milton. 

7. "Books must follow sciences, and not sciences books," Bacon. 

8. "In books lies the soul of the whole past time," Carlyle. 

9. "Words are also actions, and actions are a kind of word," 
Emerson. 

East End Wall: 10. "Reading maketh a full man, conference a 
ready man, and writing an exact man," Bacon. 

Three other quotations are inscribed in tablets on the 
semi-circular border, following the line of the vault on West 
End wall. These are (L. to R.) : 

1. "Order is Heaven's first law," Pope. 

2. "Memory is the treasurer and guardian of all things," Cicero. 

3. "Beauty is the creator of the universe," Emerson. 

The Printers' Marks in this corridor are, on N. side, 
modern American, and on S. side early English and Scotch. 

North Side (W. to E.): i. D. Appleton and Co.; 2. The De Vinne 
Press; 3. Charles Scribner's Sons; 4. Harper and Brothers; 5. The 
Riverside Press; 6. The Century Company; 7. J. B. Lippincott Com'pany; 



390 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

8. Dodd, Mead and Co. South Side (E. to W.) : 9- William Caxton, 
1489; 10. Richard Grafton, 1537-72; 11. Thomas VautroUier, 1556-1605; 
12. John Day, 1546-84; 13. William Jaggard, 1595-1624; 14. A. Arbuthnot, 
1580; 15. Andrew Hester, 1550; 16. Richard Pynson, 1493-1527. 

Two Other important decorations remain to be described, 
namely Mr. Maynard's Pompeiian panels and Mr. Hinton 
Perry's series of bas-reliefs of the ancient Sybils, both of 
which series the northern corridor shares with the southern. 

The Pompeiian panels, eight in number, consist of female figures 
in classic drapery, representing the Virtues, and depicted against a rich 
bacikground of Pompeiian red. The four in the N. corridor are as 
follows: West End Wall (L. to R.) : i. Industry, with spindle and 
distaff; 2. Concord, with olive branch and horn of plenty. Eas-t End 
Wall (L. to R.): 3. Fortitude, in full armor, with sword and buckler; 
4. Justice, with sword and sphere. 

The Hinton Perry bas-reliefs, four in number, are placed 
on the inner faces of the deep arches surmounting the West 
End windows of the N. and S. corridors. 

Those of the N. corridor are respectively: i. (on L.) Delphic 
Sybil, seated upon a tripod, and flanked by an old man, symbolizing 
Greek philosophy, and a nude woman, representing Greek Art; 2. (on 
R.) Persian Sybil, veiled, suggesting oriental occultism. On one side a 
male figure prostrates himself, symbolizing the fervor of Eastern 
worship; on the other a half nude woman, laden v/ith jewels, symboliz- 
ing the sensuous Art of the East. 

Entrance Hall Arcade continued: East Corridor: The 
principal decorations here are two series of murals by George 
R. Barse, Jr. and by William A. Mackay, the subjects being 
respectively, Literature and The Life of Man. 

Mr. Barse's series of pendentive figures begins on E. side, and' com- 
prises (N. to S.): I. Lyric Poetr\' playing on a lyre; 2. Tragedy, with 
tragic mask; 3. Comedy, with comic mask and tambourine; 4. History, 
with scroll and palm-branch. W. side: 5. Romance, with pen and 
scroll; 6. Fancy, with clasped hands and rapt upward gaze; 7. Tradi- 
tion, wearing ^gis aJid holding statue of Winged Victory; 8. Love 
Poetry, or Erotica, writing on tablet. 

Along the centre of the vault is represented, in a series 
of three frescoes, The Life of Alan, by IVilUam A. Mackay 
(b. 1878). The artist has chosen to symbolize man's life 
on earth by the Three Fates, Clotho, Lachesis and Atropos. 
whose respective duties are to spin, weave and sever the 
Thread of life. 

The significance of these three medallions is made plain by a 
series of inscriptions placed above and below them. The upper series 
runs as follows: 

I. "For a web begun God sends thread." Old Proverb. 



THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 39i 

2. "Th.e web of Jiife ... is of migled yarn, good and ill 
together." "All's Well that Ends Well," Shakespeare. 

3. "Comes the blind Fury with th' abhorred shears 
And slits the thin-spun life." Milton. 

The other inscriptions are from Cardinal Wolsey's speech in 
Sliakespeare's - "Henry VIII" : 

4. "This is the state of man: today he puts forth 
The tender leaves of hope." 

5. " . . . Tomorrow blossoms 

And bears his blushing honors thick upon him." 

6. "The third day comes a frost, 
And . . . nips his root, 
And then he falls ..." 

The Medallions: i. Clotho, with her distaff; in her lap is a baby; 
in the background are a little spring, a sapling and the rising sun; 

2. Lachesis, with a shuttle and loom; in background are a mature man, 
a broad river and a full-grown tree, while the sun stands at high noon; 

3. Atropos, with open shears about to sever a thread; in the background 
are a crippled old man, a fallen tree, a dried-up stream and setting sun. 

At the ends of the corridor are tablets recording the 
names of eminent American printers, and other Americans 
distinguished for their improvements in printing machinery. 
North End: -Green, Dave, Frankhn. Thomas, Bradford; 
South End : Clymer, Adams, Gordon, Hoe, Bruce. 

The Printers' Marks in this corridor are mainly Italian and 
Spanish. They run as follows (L. to R.): 

North End: i. Lucantonio de Giunta (Italian), 1500; 2. Aldus 
Manutius (Italian), 1502. East Side: 3. Paul and Anthony Mejetos 
(Italian), 1570; 4. Gian Giacomo de Legnano (Italian), 1503-33; 5. Juan 
Rosembach (Spanish), 1493-1526; 6. .\ndrea Torresano (Italian), 1481- 
1540; 7- Valentin Fernandez (Spanish), 1501. South End: 8. Christo- 
pher Plantin (Flemish), 1557; 9. Elzevir (Dutch), 1617-25. West 
Side: 10. Fratres de Sabio (Italian), early i6th century; 11. Melchior 
Sessa (Italian), i6th century; 12. Ottaviano Scotto (Italian), 1480-1520; 
13. Giammaria Rizzardi (Italian), dose of i8th century; 14. Filippo de 
Giunta (Italian), 1515. 

There are only two quotations inscribed on the walls of 
tbe East Corridor above the N. and S. east windows respec- 
tively : 

1. (N. window): "Science is organized knowledge." Herbert. 

2. (S. window) : "Beauty is truth, truth beauty." Keats' "Ode to 
a Grecian Urn." 

Entrance Hall Arcade continued: South Corridor: The 
principal decorations here are two series of murals by Frank 
W. Benson (b. 1862) : i. The Four Seasons, occupying cir- 
cular panels on the S. wall; 2. The Three Graces, in hex- 
agonal panels along the centre of the vault. 

The Seasons are represented respectively by half-length figures of 
a young woman, but with no attempt to distinguish the Seasons by 
attributes or any symbolism beyond a varying warmth in the color 
scheme. 



392 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

The Graces (E. to W.) are: i. Aglaia, patroness of Husbandry, 
symbolized by a shepherd's crook; 2. Thalia, patroness of Music, 
symbolized by a lyre; 3. Euphrosyne, goddess of Beauty, admiring 
herself in a hand-mirror. 

At the opposite ends of the ceiHng vault are two rec- 
tangular panels similar in general treatment to the Classic 
Sports of the N. Corridor, but portraying respectively the 
modern sports of: i. (E. end) Football; 2. (W. end) Base- 
ball. 

The series of Maynard's Pompeiian panels representing 
the Virtues, begun in the N. corridor, are here continued as 
follows : 

East End Wall (N. to S/i : 5. Patriotism, represented by a girl of 
heroic mien, holding in her right hand a bowl from which an eagle, 
perched on her left arm, is feeding; 6. Courage, female figure with 
buckler and drawn sword. Over the window, between these panels, 
is a tablet with the quotation: 

"Beholding the bright continents of Truth in the quiet and still 
air of delightful studies." Milton. 

West End Wall (N. to S.): 7. Temperance, represented as pourin» 
water from an urn into a cup; 8. Prudence, firmly grasping snake in 
right hand, and watching possible dangers from rear, through mirror 
held in left. 

The Hint on Perry Sibyls are here continued from N. cor- 
ridor by two more bas-reliefs w-ithin the arch of the W. 
window : 

3. (N. side) a Norse Vala or Wise Woman, delivering her barbaric 
inspiration to a warrior, while a nude woman of stalwart build, per- 
sonifying Scandinavian fecundity, lies on the ground listening; 4. The 
Cumaean, or Roman Sybil. 

The Printers' Marks in the penetrations of this corridor 
are mainly French, and run as follows : 

South Side (E. to W.): i. Rutger Velpius (Flemish), 1553-1614; 
2. F. Estienne, 1525; 3. Simon de Colines, 1520; 4. Francois Regnault, 
early i6th century; 5. Simon Vostre. 1 488-1 528; 6. Sebastian Nivelle. 
late i6th century; 7. M. Morin, 1484-1518; 8. Sebastien Gryphe, second 
quarter of i6th century. 

North Wall (W. to E.): 9. Andre Wechel, 1535; 10. Geoffroy Tory, 
1524; II. Guillaume Chaudiere, 1564; 12. Pierre Le Rouge, 1488; 13. 
Mathurin Breuille, 1562-83; 14. Etienne Dolet, 1540; 15. Jehan Treschel, 
1493; 16. Jehan Petit, 1525- 

The pendentives between the penetrations containing the 
Printers' Marks, are occupied by tablets containing alternately 
literary quotations and mosaic trophies, representing the sev- 
eral branches of skilled labor. These inscriptions and alter- 
nating trophies run as follows : 



THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 393 

South Side (E. to W.) : i. Quotation: 

"The fault . ' . . is not in our stars, 
i But in ourselves that we are underlings." Shakespeare, "Julius 

I Caesar." 

2. Trophy: The Printer, symbolized by stick, inking- 
„ ball and type-case ; 

3. Quotation : 

"... The universal cause 

Acts to one end, but acts by various laws." Pope. 

4. Trophy : The Potter, symbolized by three urns ; 

5. Quotation: 

"Creation's heir, the world, the world is mine!" Goldsmith. 

'■{ 6. Trophy: The Glass-blower, with three glass vases of 

j' different shapes ; 

7. Quotation : 

"\'ain, very vain the weary search to find 

That bliss which only centres in the mind." Goldsmith. 

North Side (W. to E.) : 8. Quotation: 

■, "A little learning is a dangerous thing; 

'"• Drink deep, or taste not the Pierian spring." Pope. 

I 9. Trophy : The Carpenter, symbolized by hammer, saw 

I and augur; 10. Quotation: 

'< "Learning is but an adjunct to ourself." Shakespeare. "Love's 

Labor's Lost." 

II. Trophy: The Blacksmith, symbolized by hammer, 
j anvil and forceps; 12. Quotation: 

"Studies perfect nature, and are perfected by experience." Bacon. 

•I 13. Trophy : The Mason, symbolized by square, trowel, 

I level and mortar-board ; 14. Quotation : 

"Dreams, books, are each a world; and books we know, 
' Are a substantial world, both pure and good." IVordsivorth. 

The Southivestcrn Gallery, connecting the South Corri- 
I dor of the entrance Pavilion w^ith the Southwest Pavilion, 
j contains in the tympanums over the N. and S. doorways two 
; large murals by Kenyan Cox : 

I I. (N. end) The Arts: This consists of a group of five 

I symbolic female figures. Enthroned in the centre is Poetry, 
i holding a lyre and crowned with a laurel wreath. On her 
I R. are Architecture, holding a marble column, and Music, 
( playing a violin ; on her L. are Sculpture, holding a statuette, 

and Painting, with palette and brushes. 2. The Sciences : 
I Enthroned in centre is Astronomy, holding compasses with 
, which to take measurements of a celestial globe. On her R. 
I are Physics, with weighing machine, and Mathematics, with 
I abacus; on her L. are Botany, holding a young oak tree, and 

Zoology, fondling a peacock. 



394 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

A series of meimorial tablets, inscri1>ed with the names of men 
distinguisihed in science and art, extends entirely around the walls of 
this corridor above the doors and windows, as follows: 

North Wall (L. to R.): i. Wagner; 2. Homer; 3. Michelangelo. 
East Wall: 4. Raphael; 5. Rubens; 6 Milton; 7. Leibnitz; 8. Dalton; 
9. Kepler; 10. Herschel, South Wall: 11. Galileo; 12. Ptolemy; 13. 
Aristotle: 14. Hipparchus; 15. Lamarck. West Wall: 16. Helmholtz; 
17. Phidias; 18. Vitruvius; 19. Bramante; 20. Mozart. 

Through the S. doorway, beneath the mural of the 
Sciences, we reach, at the southwest corner of the Library, 
the "Pavilion of the Discoverers." The murals in this room, 
comprising the central disc in the dome and the tympanums 
on the four walls, are by George W. Maynard. 

The central disc consists of four symbolic female fig- 
ures, typifying the National Virtues: i. (N. E.) Courage, in 
coat-of-mail, with shield and war club; 2. (S.E.) Valor, a 
higher type of warrior, armed with a sword; 3. (S.W.) 
Fortitude, unarmed, but bearing as symbol of stability an 
architectural column; 4. (N.W.) Achievement, crowned with 
a laurel wreath. These four figures are closely related to 
the four adjacent tympanum murals depicting successively 
Adventure, Discovery, Conquest and Civilization. Each of 
these murals consists of a group of three female figures ; and 
in each case the symbols, attributes and inscribed names of 
explorers, soldiers, priests and missionaries are exclusively 
those of England and Spain, through whom the discovery 
and civilization of America were accomplished : 

1. East tympanum: Adventure (central figure), with 
drawn sword and cadnceus, emblem of Mercury, god of 
commerce and of theft. The figures on L. and R. symbolize 
respectively Spanish and English Adventures. 

The inscribed names are as follows: 

(L.) I. Diaz; 2. Narvaez; 3. Coello; 4. Cabeza; 5. Verrazano; 
6. Bastidas; (R.) 7. Drake; 8. Cavendish; 9. Raleigh; 10. Smith; 
II. Frobisher; 12. Gilbert. 

2. South tympanum: Discovery (central figure), with 
terrestrial globe, and holding a ship's rudder. On R. and L. 
sit armor-clad figures, holding respectively: a. A sword and 
Jacob's staff (used by early navigators in place of a sextant) ; 
"b. A paddle and chart. 

Inscribed names: (L.) i. Solis; 2. Orellana; 3. Van Horn; 4. 

Ojeda; 5. Columbus; 6. Pinon; (R.) 7. Cabot; 8. Magellan; 9. 
Hudson; 10. Behring; 11. Vespucius; 12. Balboa. 

3. West tympanum: Conquest (central figure), with 
casque pushed back, but with sword still unsheathed. On R. 
and L. respectively are figures symbolizing Southern Con- 
quests (with sheaf of palms) and Northern Conquests (with 1 
chaplet of oak-leaves). 



THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 395 

Inscribed names: (L.) r. Pizarro; 2. Alvarado; 3. Almagro; 
4. Hutten; 5. Frontenac; 6. De Soto; (R.) 7. Cortes; 8. Standish; 
VVinslow; 10. Phipps; 11. \'elasquez; 12. De Leon. 

4. North tympanum : Civilization enthroned, crowned 

with laurel and holding torch of enlightenment. On L. is 

Agriculture, holding scythe and sheaf of wheat; on R, is 
Manufactures, with distaff and spindle. 

Inscribed names: (L.) i. Eliot; 2. Calvert; 3. Marquette; 4. 

Joliet; 5. Oglethorpe; 6. Las Casas; (R.) 7. Penn; 8. Winthrop; 9. 
Motolinia; 10. Yeardley; 11. La Salle. 

In the pendentives of the four corners are The Seasons, 
four circular bas-relief panels by Bela L. Pratt, i. (S.W. 
cor.) Spring, a young girl sowing seed, her drapery fluttering 
in a brisk wind; 2. (S. E. cor.) Summer, a beautiful mature 
woman, seated in a field of poppies; 3. (N.E. cor.) Autumn, 
a mother suckling her child; 4. (N.W. cor.) Winter, *a 
wrinkled crone, gathering fagots for her frugal fire. 

The eastern door opens into the South Gallery, occupied 
by the Division of Prints. Passing through this gallery 
we reach the Southeast Pavilion or "Pavilion of the Ele- 
ments." The murals here comprise four tympanums, by 
R. L. Dodge, and a central disc, the joint work of Mr. Dodge 
and Elmer E. Garnsey. The ceiling painting depicts the 
Chariot of Phoebus-Apollo, the Sun-god, surrounded by 
cartouches symbolizing the Elements. 

The Elements are also the theme of the four tympanum 
murals. In each is a central group of three figures, the 
middle figure in the E. and \V. pictures being a male, flanked 
by two female figures, while in the N. and S. pictures all 
three figures are female. The central figure (a personifica- 
tion, in each case, of an Element), holds in each hand em- 
blematic garlands, the opposite ends of which are held by 
genii in the corners. To R. and L. of central group is a 
bronze column, flanked by lofty bronze tripods, surmounted 
by appropriate symbols. 

I. (West Wall) Earth. He stands against a background 
of fruitful summer landscape. The figure on R. holds a 
sickle and sheaf of wheat; that on L. holds a rose and 
leans upon an amphora or ancient wine-jar. On the columns 
are baskets of fruit, and peacocks perch upon the tripods. 
2. (North Wall) Air. She is winged and stands against a 
background of sky and clouds ; a star blazes oh her forehead. 
One of the flanking figures is also winged ; the other holds a 
caduceus. Surmounting the columns are astrolohes, and 
perched upon the tripod are eagles. 3. (West Wall) Fire. 
He stands against a background of volcanic mountains in 
action. The flanking figures hold blazing torches. The 



396 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

columns bear flaming globes, and the tripods are surmounted 
by fiery nests from which phoenixes arise. 4. (South Wall) 
Water, The central figure stands against a background of 
the open sea. She is clad in green, and festooned with sea- 
weed and water-lilies. On her R. and L, are mermaids. The 
group is flanked by Rostral columns, and above the tripods 
hover sea-gulls. 

The Northzvest Gallery, connecting the North Corridor 
of the Entrance Pavilion with the Northwest Pavilion, con- 
tains in the tympanums over the N, and S. doorways two 
large murals by Gari Melchcrs. 

I. (South Wall) Peace, Here, in a setting of Arcadian 
simplicity, some pre-historic tribe is conducting a religious 
procession. The w^orshipers have reached a grove sacred to 
tfte tutelary diety, whose image the four central figures are 
carrying, the others bear various thank-offerings, and the 
sacrificial ox closes the procession. 2. (North Wall) War. 
Here, in a similar pre-historic setting, we see a band of 
warriors returning after victory. In front are the dogs of 
war straining at their leashes. Next comes the conquering 
chieftain on his war horse, and in the foreground a fallen 
hero is being borne homeward. The bitterness of the con- 
flict is indicated by the corpses which strew their route. 

In tablets above the doors and windows are enrolled the 
names of the world's great fighters on land and sea: 

I. Wellington; 2. Washington; 3. Charles Martel ; 4. 
Cyrus ; 5. Alexander ; 6. Hannibal ; 7. Caesar ; 8. Charle- 
magne ; 9. Napoleon; 10. Jackson; 11. Sheridan; 12. Grant; 
13. Sherman; 14. William the Conqueror; 15. Frederick the 
Great; 16. Eugene; 17. Marlborough; 18. Nelson; 19. Scott; 
20. Farragut. 

The doors beneath the picture of War open into the 
Northzvest Pavilion, or "Pavilion of the Arts and Sciences." 
This is now used as a special reading room and not open 
to the general public. A small space, however, in the S.E. 
cor., screened off by a glass partition, enables the visitor to 
get a somewhat unsatisfactory view of the decorations. 
These comprise four tympanums and a ceiling fresco, all by 
William de Leftzvieh Dodge. 

The ceiling painting is an allegory of Ambition, and de- 
picts a horde of aspirants striving, by fair means or foul, to 
reach the summit of the Mountain of Success, The Unat- 
tainable Ideal soars above them, accompanied by the winged 
horse Pegasus, and trumpeting Fame. A Court Jester, mock- 
ing their fruitless efforts, adds the last touch of irony. 



THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 397 

The tympanum murals are as follows: i. (South Wall) 
Art, a group of three figures comprising a Sculptor, chiseling 
a marble Sphynx ; an Artist, drawing from a model ; and a 
Woman decorating a Vase. 2. (West Wall) Literature, sym- 
bolized by the Genius of Wisdom, holding an open book, 
surrounded by Tragedy and Comedy, Fame in the act of 
crowning a Poet, and Education, represented by a mother 
teaching her children. 3. (iNorth Wall) Music, depicting 
Apollo, god of song and harmony, listening to the playing of 
an encircling group of musicians, ancient and modern. 4. 
(East Wall) Science: here, before a Temple, winged Fame 
is bestowing a laurel wreath upon kneeling Electricity, whose 
attributes are the Phonograph and Telephone. In the sur- 
rounding group are an Inventor, holding a propeller (Steam 
Navigation), a Farmer binding grain (Agriculture) and 
Anatomists studying a skull (Medical Science). Chemistry 
is represented bv a retort, and Steam Power bv a boiling 
kettle. 

The Northeast Pavilion, known as the "Pavilion of the 
Seals," is now closed to the public, and can be seen only 
by special permission. The decorations, as in the other 
Pavilions, comprise a central disc and four tympanums, and 
are the joint product of W. B. Van Ingen and Elmer E. 
Garnsey. 

The central disc in the dome contains the Great Seal oi 
the United States ; the surrounding decorations include the 
forty-eight stars of the Flag, four faces with inflated cheeks, 
emblematic of the four Cardinal Winds ; the different sec- 
tions of the country, represented by their fruits and grains ; 
and lastly, Agriculture, symbolized by a cornucopia. Com- 
merce by a Dolphin, Art by a lyre and Education by a torch. 
The whole is surrounded by an inscription comprising the 
concluding lines of Lincoln's Gettysburg Address : 

"That this Nation, under God, shall have a new birth of freedom; 
and that government of the people, by the people, for the people, shall 
not perish from the earth." 

In the tympanums are symbolized the Executive Depart- 
ments in the form of female figures, each supporting the 
Seal of her department emblazoned on a shield. Adjacent to 
each tympanum are wreathed panels containing patriotic 
sentiments. 

I. West Tympanum: Treasury and State Departments, 
indicated respectively (in addition to the Seals) by: A. 
The Treasury Building; B. The Capitol Dome and Wash- 
ington Monument. The quotations are: 



398 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

a. " 'Tis our true policy to steer clear of permanent alliances with 
any portion of the foreign world." — IVasliington. b. "Let our object be 
our country, our whole country, and nothing but our country." — Webster. 

2. South Tympanum: War and Navy Departments, in- 
dicated respectively by : A. Bunker Hill Monument and the 
Roman Standard (modified by the initials "U. S. A.") ; B. 
The masts of the Battleship Indiana and Decatur's Rostral 
Column (at Annapolis). Inscriptions: 

c. "The aggregate happiness of society is, or ought to be, the end 
of all government." — Washington, d. "To be prepared for war is one 
of the most effectual means of preserving peace." — Washington. 

3. East Tympanum: Departments of Agriculture and the 
Interior, indicated respectively by : A. Landscape showing a 
farming region; B. An Indian Tree Sepulture. Inscriptions: 

e. "The agricultural interest of the country is connected with 

every other, and superior in importance to them all." — Jackson. 
f. "Let us have peace." — Grant. 

4. North Tympanum: Departments of Justice and the 
Post Office, indicated respectively by: A. The Scales of Jus- 
tice; B. Bronze statue of Mercury, messenger of the gods. 
Inscription : 

g. "Equal and exact justice to all men, of whatever state or per- 
suasion, religious or political; peace, commerce, and honest friendship 
with all nations — entangling alliances with none." — Jefferson. 

d. The Rotunda 

Adjoining the Eastern Corridor of the Main Entrance 
Pavilion Gallery is the Stfairway Vestibule, opening upon a 
branching marble stairway leading up to the Visitors' Gal- 
lery of the Rotunda. The ceiling decorations in the vaulting 
of the Stairway Vestibule symbolize by a series of trophies 
the leading classic arts: i. (N. vault) Sculpture: a bas-relief 
female face with laurel wreath; 2. (Central vault) Litera- j 
ture: represented by a book, scroll and antique lamp; 3. 
( S. vault) Architecture: Ionic Capital and Square. Sculp- 
ture is further commemorated by the enrollment in the vault- j 
ing of four classic masterpieces, The Parthenon Pediment, 1 
Niobc, Laocoon and Farnese Bull; while in the adjacent j 
stairway vault are inscribed the names of four divinities j 
most frequently subject of the sculptor'sart : Zeus, Hercules, 
Venus and Apollo. Architecture is similarly commemorated 
by the names of four ancient cities famous for their monu- 
ments: Gizeh, Athens, Rome and Agra; while in the adja- 
cent stairway vault are inscribed one of the most famous 
structures respectively in these four cities : The Pyramids, 
Parthenon, Colosseum and Taj Mahal. 



• THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 399 

On E. wall of bays, to N. and S. of stairway, are two 
murals representing respectively Prescott, the Historian, and 
Audubon, the Naturalist, by IV. B. Van Ingen. 

Opposite the central landing where the stairs branch to 
R. and L., is a colossal glass mosaic 15^ ft- high and 9 ft 
wide, representing *Minerva, Goddess of Wisdom, by Elihu 
Veddcr. Her armor is partly laid aside; yet she still wears 
upon her breast the aegis, emblazoned with the Gorgon's 
head, and in her right hand holds a spear. In her left hand 
is a scroll inscribed with the chief branches of knowledge : 
Law, Statistics, Sociology, Philosophy and the Sciences. On 
L. and R. respectively are an owl, and a statuette of the 
Winged Victory bearing a victor's wreath and an olive 
branch. Note, beneath the owl, the artist's signature in 
mosaic. 

Ascending by iR. or L. branch of the stairway, we 
reach a door opening into the Visitors' Promenade, an 
octagonal gallery completely surrounding the Rotunda, and 
consisting of eight alcoves, connected by arched openings in 
the partitioned walls. This gallery, accessible to visitors at 
all times when the library is open, affords the best point from 
which to study the structure and decorations of the Rotunda 
(with the exception of Blashfield's paintings in the Crown 
of the Lantern, which can be seen only from near the 
centre of the main floor). 

The ground plan of the Rotunda is a regular octagon, 
measuring 100 ft. from side to side. At each of the eight 
angles are massive clustered piers of dusky red Numidian 
marble, resting on a base of chocolate brown Tennessee 
marble, and supporting semi-circular arches, which in turn 
bear a massive circular entablature from which spring the 
eight ribs that sustain the weight of the dome. Between the 
piers are screens of yellow Sienna marble, in many tones, 
arcaded in two stories; and behind the piers are partitions 
extending to the outer walls and forming a series of eight 
bays. The main floor level of these bays is devoted to the 
shelves of reference books, open to the public ; the first gal- 
lery is used for book stacks ; while the second story forms 
the above mentioned Visitors' Promenade, which is lighted 
by large semicircular windows, filling in the whole of the 
wall space within the eight great arches, and containing the 
Seals of the several States of the Union, together with the 
respective dates of their ratification of the Constitution, 
admission into the Union, or Territorial organization. 



400 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

These seals, designed by Herman T. Schladermundt (b. 1863), front 
designs by Edivard P. Casey, find their chief interest in the freedom with 
which the originals have been adapted to the needs of decorative art. 
Many of the official seals were designed by persons having no knowledge 
of heraldic rules and conventions; nor was there any uniformity in 
size and proportion; while in a few cases there was no heraldic device 
at all (as in the case of the State of Washington, which consists simply 
of a portrait of Washington j. Mr. Schladermundt, by altering propor- 
tions, adapting the devices to the fundamental rules of armorial bear- 
ings, and in some instances amplifying too bare a device (e. g.. in the 
Washington seal, by adding the Washington family coat-of-arms), has 
achieved the happy result of unanimity, in form, spirit and color- 
scheme. 

Above the entablature, the Dome rises to a height of 125 
ft. above floor level, at the point where it converges upon 
the Lantern. The surface of the dome is of stucco, orna- 
mented with coffers and arabesques in relief. Above the 
centre of the dome the lantern rises an additional 35 ft., 
forming a total height of 160 ft. from floor to centre of the 
shallow lantern dome. 

In the "collar" between main dome and lantern is an 
encircling mural, The Progress of Civilization, by Edwin 
H. BlasJificld, consisting of twelve seated figures, male and 
female, in alternative pairs, representing the twelve nations 
or epochs which have conspicuously contributed to the devel- 
opment of modern civilization. In several cases the faces are 
portraits. They are arranged in their historic sequence, as 
follows : 

1. Egypt (Written Records) : Male figure, holding tab- 
let with hieroglyphics and Tau-cross, emblem of immortality. 
Other attributes are papyrus scrolls and the cartouche of 
Mena, first Egyptian King. 

2. Judea {Religion) : Female figure, in attitude of prayer; 
she wears an Ephod or priestly vestment, inscribed with the 
names of the Twelve Tribes. Attributes : a scroll, censer 
and stone tablet inscribed "Thou shalt love thy neighbor as 
thyself," Levit. xix, 18. 

3. Greece (Philosophy) : Female figure in classic garb, 
with diadem. Attributes : ancient bronze lamp and scroll. 

4. Rome (Administration) : Male figure, armed as a Ro- 
man centurion. Attributes : a sword, the fasces and a marble 
column. 

5. Islam (Physics) : Male figure depicting an Arab; he 
holds a book of mathematics, and his foot rests upon a 
retort. 

6. Middle Ages (Modern Languages) : Female figure, 
with sword, casque and cuirass, emblematic of the Age of 



THE LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 401 

Chivalry. Other attributes are a cathedral, emblem of 
Gothic Architecture, and a Papal Tiara and St. Peter's Keys, 
representing the Power of the Church. The features are 
those of Mary Anderson. 

7. Italy {Fine Arts) : Female figure, with palette and 
brush (Painting), a capital (Architecture), reduced copy of 
Michelangelo's David (Sculpture) and a violin (Music). 

8. Germany (Art of Printing) : Male figure, garbed as a 
fifteenth century printer, reading proofs from the hand-press 
beside him. The face is a characterization of General 
Thomas L. Casey. 

9. Spain (Discovery) : Male figure, representing a Span- 
ish adventurer, clad in a sailor's leather jerkin, and holding 
the tiller of a ship. Other attributes : a sword, a globe and 
model of a caravel. 

10. England (Literature) : Female figure in Elizabethan 
garb, holding a volume of Shakespeare's plays, open to show 
the title-page of "Midsummer Night's Dream." The features 
are those of the Shakespearean actress, Ellen Terry. 

11. France (Emancipation) : Female figure, clad in tri- 
color jacket and Liberty cap, characteristic of the First 
Republic. She is seated on a cannon and holds a copy of 
the "Declaration des Droits de I'Homme." The face is a 
likeness of Mrs. E. H. Blashfield. 

12. America (Science) : Male figure, representing an 
electrical engineer, consulting a scientific work, with a 
dynamo before him. The face is an adaptation of the 
familiar features of Lincoln. 

In the crown of the Lantern there is another allegoric 
painting, also by Blashfield, representing The Human 
Understanding. Floating amid clouds is a female figure 
attended by two genii. She is lifting her veil, and has raised 
her gaze from Finite Achievement, as depicted in the frieze 
below, to gaze wraptly upward into Infinity. 

The Rotunda Statues. In front of each of the eight 
piers, and equalling them in height, is an engaged column, 
also of Numidian marble, but of paler tone. Surmounting 
each column is a symbolic statue, colossal size (of plaster), 
representing some department of Human Thought and De- 
velopment. In each of the pendentives above these statues 
is a plaster group consisting of a pair of winged child- 
figures (modeled by Martigny), supporting an oblong tablet 
bearing in gold letters an appropriate quotation. These in- 



402 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

scriptions were chosen by Dr. Charles W. Eliot. Between 
the columns and those surmounting the bahistrade which 
guards the Visitors' Gallery is a series of bronze portrait 
statues, heroic size, grouped in pairs, each pair representing 
men who have achieved fame in the special department 
denoted by the symbolic statue immediately adjoining on the 
L. The symbolic statues, quotations and bronze portrait 
statues occupy the following order, beginning on the south 
side of the western or entrance alcove of the gallery, and 
continuing from L. to R. around the Rotunda : 

1. Religion, by Theodore Baur; attribute, a flower, sig- 
nifying God revealed in Nature. Portrait-statues : a. Moses, 
by Charles H. Niehaus (b. 1855) ; b. St. Paul, by John 
Donoghue. Inscription : 

"What doth the Lord require of thee, but to do justly, to love mercy, 
and to walk humbly wSth thy God?" — Micah vi, 8. 

2. Commerce, by John Flanagan (b. 1865) ; attributes, a 
schooner and a locomotive. Portrait-statues : c. Robert Ful- 
ton, by Edward C. Potter; d. Columbus, by Paul W. Bart- 
lett. Inscription: 

"We taste the spices of Arabia, yet never feel the scorching sun 
which brings them forth." — Consideration on East India Trade (Anony- 
mous). 

3. History, by Daniel C. French; attributes, a book and 
a mirror, reflecting the past. Portrait-statues : e. Gibbon, by 
Niehaus; f. Herodotus, by French. Inscription: 

"One God, one law, one element, 

And one far-off divine event, 

To which the whole creation moves." — Tennyson. 

4. Art, by Do.7.si of France, after designs by Augustus 
St. Gaudens; attributes, a laurel crown, a model of the Par- 
thenon, a mallet, and brush and palette. Portrait-statues : 
g. Michelangelo, by Paul W. Bartlett; h. Beethoven, by The- 
odore Baur. Inscription : 

"As one lamp lights another, nor grows less. 
So nobleness enkindleth nobleness." — Lowell. 

5. Philosophy, by Bela L. Pratt; attribute, a book. Por- 
trait-statues : i. Lord Bacon, by John J. Boyle (b. 1852) ; 
j. Plato, by Boyle. Inscription: 

"The inquiry, knowledge, and belief of truth is the sovereign good 
of human nature." — Bacon. 

6. Poetry, by /. Q. A. Ward; attribute, a scroll. Por- 
trait-statues: k. Homer, by Augustus St. Gaudens; 1- 
•Shakespeare, by Frederick W. MacMonnics. Inscription: 

"Hither, as to their fountain, other stars 

Repairing, in their golden urns draw light." — Milton. 



WASHINGTON SOUTHEAST 403 

7. Law, by Bartlett; attributes, a scroll and a stone table 
of laws. Portrait-statues: m. Kent, by George W. Bissell; 
n. Solon, by Frederick W. Ruckstuhl. Inscription: 

"Of Law there can be no less acknowledged, than that her voice is 
the harmony of the world."— Hco^er. 

8. Science, by Donoghue; attributes, a mirror, triangle 
and terrestrial globe. Portrait-statues: o. Joseph Henry, by v 
Herbert Adams; p. Newton, by C. E. Ballin. Inscription: 

"The Heavens declare the glory of God; and the firmament showeth 
His handiwork." — Psalms xix, i. 

II. From the Library of Congress to the 

Congressional Cemetery 

a. Washington Southeast 

Southeast Washington, which the City's founders con- 
fidently expected to be the residential centre of the future 
Capital, offers today comparatively little of interest to the 
visitor. Aside from the Library of Congress (p. 369) » the 
entire section may easily be covered in a few hours by follow- 
ing the itinerary here given. 

On the site of the Library of Congress, E. side of 
1st St., from East Capitol St. to B St. S. E., formerly 
stood several historic buildings. Long's Hotel, at the S. E. 
cor. of East Capitol and ist Sts., was the scene of the first 
inaugural ball given in Washington, on the occasion of Madi- 
son's inauguration, March 4th, 1809. At the S. E. cor. of ist 
and A Sts. (immediately S. E. of the Hinton Perry Neptune's 
Fountain), is the site of the building occupied by General 
Ross and Admiral Cockburn, as British headquarters, August 
24th, 1814. E. on B St., at former No. 120, about midway 
on S. side of Library, once stood the house of Guiseppe Fran- 
zoni. Diagonally opposite, No. 131 B St., is the house 
occupied by William Jennings Bryan while a member of 
Congress. Turning W. we reach, at S. W. cor. of ist and B 

Sts., the 

House Office Building (PI. I — \Ea) occupying the block 
bounded by B and C Sts., ist St. and New Jersey Ave. S. E. 
It is in form a hollow square enclosing a court nearly 300 
ft. square, while its total frontage is nearly a third of a 
mile. Its style is a French interpretation of the classic order, 
as appears especially in the main, or B St., fagade, which has 
a colonnade of 34 fluted columns grouped in pairs, and flanked 
on E. and W. by pavilions modeled from the Colonnade dii 
Louzre, Paris, while the whole fagade is reminiscent of the 



404 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Garde Mciihlc of the Place de la Concorde. The materials of 
the exterior are: for B St. and New Jersey Ave. fagades, 
South Dover (N. Y.) marble; C and ist Sts. fagades, Georgia 
marble; inner court, Bedford (Ind.) limestone. Both the 
House and Senate Office Buildings (p. 365) were designed by 
Carre re & Hastings, Mr. Carrere being consulting architect 
for the former and Mr. Hastings for the latter building. 
Supervising architect, Elliott Woods. 

Owing to the sharp southward slope of the street grade 
the C St. entrance is on the level of the basement, and a 
driveway completely encircles the inner court. Here the out- 
going and incoming mails are handled and supplies received, 
both for this building and the Capitol, with which it is con- 
nected by an ample subway. 

The main entrance is at the corner of B and 1st Sts., and 
opens directly into an imposing rotunda which rises from 
the second,»or main floor, to the roof, and is surmounted by 
a dome. Its chief feature is a circle of eighteen marble 
columns standing on a marble arcade, the whole being en- 
closed within a circular wall or shell. The diameter of the 
rotunda, measured from wall to wall, is 7sy2 ft.; that of 
the circle of columns is 57 ft.; height from floor to eye of 
dome is 68 ft. Back of the rotunda is the main double stair- 
wa3% broken by frequent landings, after the fashion of the 
monumental stairways of the Italian Renaissance. The large 
rectangular space behind these stairs is devoted, on the base- 
ment floor, to barber shops, etc., on the second floor to the 
Post Office, and on the third to a spacious Conference, or 
Caucus Room. 

The first four floors are devoted mainly to offices, which 
are arranged around the quadrangle in a double row, separ- 
ated by a twelve-foot corridor. There are 397 of these rooms, 
all measuring 16x23^^ feet. 

Congress appropriated for the House Office $3,100,000. 
This is regarded by architects as a remarkably low expendi- 
ture in consideration of the size of the building, and the vast 
amounts of material required. For instance, no less than 
285.000 cubic ft. of cut stone was ordered, constituting, it is 
said, the largest contract of its kind ever given. 

Opposite, on S. W. cor. of New Jersey Ave. (No. 3 
B St.), is a large four-story structure of gray granite, origi- 
nally built by General Benjamin F. Butler. President Arthur 
lived here "during the early months of his administration. 
The building is now occupied by the U. S. Public Health 
Service, and office of the Surgeon General. 



WAISHINGTON SOUTHEAST 405 

Continuing S. of New Jersey Ave. we pass, on W., the 
plain brick structure housing the Coast and Geodetic Survey, 
a branch of the Department of Commerce. 

The Coast and Geodetic Survey is charged with the survey of all 
coasts under jurisdiction of the United States, including the survey 
of rivers to the head of tidewater; deep-sea soundings along said coa ts, 
and throughout the Gulf of Japan streams; also magnetic observations 
and researches. The results obtained are published in annual reports, 
and in special publications, iniduding sailing charts, harbor charts, 
tide tables, notices to mariners, etc. 

The Coast and Geodetic Survey contains an important library, 
founded about 1832, with a nucleus of technical books purchased in 
1816 by Mr. Hassler, first Superintendent of the Survey. The re- 
sources of the library are approximately 25,000 volumes and pamphlets; 
35,000 maps, charts and blue-prints (domestic and foreign); 69,000 
field records (sent in by surveying parties); 13,000 negatives and prints 
of surveying work, and of Alaska, Northern, Northeastern and North- 
western boundary surveys. The library is particularly strong in mathe- 
matics, astronomy, hydrography, terrestrial magnetism and boundaries 
of the United States. 

Regulations. Open 9 A. M. to 4 P. M. daily, except Sundays and 
Holidays. Reference library primarily for the use of the Bureau, but 
free to students properly vouched for. 

Immediately S. on New Jersey Ave., W. side, are several 
'hotels. Congress Hall (p. 4), midway in the block, is espe- 
cially popular with Congressmen, housing at present three 
Senators and seventy-eight Representatives. The Potomac, 
formerly the Nciu Varnum, at iN. W. cor. of C St. (p^ 4) 
although thoroughly modernized, is a venerable structure with 
an interesting history. 

The Potomac was originally a range of three dwellings, built by 
Thomas Law, son of the Lord Bishop of Carlisle, who was brother of 
Baron Ellenborougb. Mr. Law was a talented but eccentric man, and 
ruler of a populous district in East India. He married Elizabeth Parke 
Custis, granddaughter of Martha Washington, and invested his fortune 
in Washington lots and improvements. The corner dwelling was Conrad 
and McMiinn's when the Government moved to Washington in 1800, 
and here Thomas Jefiferson, Vice-President, and Albert Gallatin were 
guests. It became one of the five Stelle's Hotels about the Capitol 
Square. 

Opposite, at S. W. cor. of C St., stands the George Wash- 
ington Inn (p. 4). 

One block S., at the intersection of New Jersey Ave. and 
D. St., is the site of the historic Carroll Tobacco House, for 
thirty years the meeting house of Christ Church (p. 406), 
then, from 1807 to 181 1, of the Ebenezer Methodist Church 
(p. 411). 

Immediately beneath this crossways is the beginning of the tunnel 
under Capitol Hill to Union Station, used by the Lines to Virginia 
and the South (entrance to tunqel on W.). 

The Capitol Power Plant, at S. W. cor. of New Jersey 
Ave. and E St., is a conspicuous landmark with its two lofty 



4o6 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

yellow brick chimneys. At "the N. W. cor. of the building 
is a huge cornerstone of granite, easily seen even from passing 
trolley cars lOO feet away. 

This stone is historic: it formerly served as the pedestal of 
Grcenough's statue of Washington, during the years that it stood ' 
opposite the E. fagade of the Capitol. The N. side of the stone still j 
bears the words, "First in War," but they are practically hidden behind j 
a hedge of young evergreens. The rear side inscription "First in the 
hearts of his countrymen" can still be read in the cellar, so the Super- 
intendent will tell enquirers — but the building is closed to casual 
\asitors. 

The Power Plant occupies a portion of the irregular L-shaped plot 
constituting Garfield Park, a large part of which is given over to a 
children's open-air gymnasium and playground. 

Three blocks E. of Garfield Park, on G St., midway be- 
tween 6th and 7th Sts., N. side, stands the Protestant Episco- 
pal Christ Church, one of the three oldest churches within the 
District limits. It was organized in 1795, but is said to be the 
successor of an earlier organization dating from 1775. The 
two organizations worshiped successively for thirty years in 
the old Carroll Tobacco House (p. 405). The present struc- 
ture dates from 1807 ; but it was first used in 1809. and not 
dedicated by Bishop Claggett of Maryland until Oct. 7, 1810. 
Here Presidents Jefferson and Madison attended service. It 
has been, however, recently restored to such an extent that 
it might be mistaken for a modern structure. 

To the Parish of Christ Church belongs Christ Church Cemetery, 
commonly known as the Congressional Burying Ground, situated on the 
tank of the Anaco«tia( River, at E and 17th Sts. S.E. (p. 408). 

One block E. of Christ Church, at G and 8th Sts., we 
reach the Marine Barracks, a group of yellow buildings occu- 
pying an entire square, and constituting the home station 
and headquarters of the Marine Corps. The chief object of 
interest here was, until its recent demolition, the Old Centre 
Building, erected in 1802 of bricks brought from England. 
Aaron Burr was for a time imprisoned here after killinjf 
Alexander Hamilton in a duel in 1804. The B'ritish used the 
building for their headquarters during the occupation of 
Washington in 1814. The Order of the Knights of Pythias 
was founded and their ritual written here in 1864. Among 
historic prisoners was Admiral Raphael Semmes of the Con- 
federate Navy, who was held here for three months. 

At present the only interest of the Marine Barracks to 
the average visitor is the fact that it is the residence of 
the famous *Marine Band, the only military band always 
stationed at Washington, and available for all military cere- 
monials. 



WASHINGTON SOUTHEAST 407 

History. The Act establishing the Marine Corps, and approved by 
President Adams, July nth, 1798, included a section providing for a 
drum and fife corps, consisting of sixteen drummers and sixteen 
fifers. These constituted the Marine Band until 1801, when Lieut. - 
Col. Archibald Henderson brought from Naples thirteen Italian musi- 
cians. It was not until half a century later that the Band first acquired 
Its fame under the leadership of Francis Scala, who, except for a 
brief interval, was its conductor from 1843 to 1871. It was he who 
inaugurated the open-air concerts at the White House and on the 
Capitol grounds, a custom which is still continued. Among the Band's 
distinguished leaders was John Philip Sousa, 1880-92. In 1861 President 
Lincoln signed a law recognizing the Marine Band as part of the 
military service of the LTnited States. In 1898, under President Mc- 
Kinley, the Band was reorganized and increased to seventy-three mem- 
bers, consisting of the Leader, with pay and allowances of a First 
Lieutenant of the Marine Corps; a second Leader, at $75-oo per 
month; thirty first-class musicians at $60.00; thirty second-class musi- 
cians at $50.00; ten privates and a Drum-major. All the members must 
enlist for four years. 

It is an interesting coincidence that John Philip Sousa, long identified 
with the Marine Band, was born in the immediate neighborhood, on 
jG St., S.E., near old Christ Chunch, Nov. 6, 1854. 

Four blocks S., on M St., is the United States Navy 
Yard, established in 1804. 

The Navy Yard (PI. HI— G5), situated at the foot of 
8th St., S.E,, on the bank of the broad tidal estuary of th^ 
Anacostia River, occupies approximately 40 acres, much of 
which is made ground. It is one of the earliest government 
iship3'ards in the country, having been established in 1800, for 
the purpose of constructing several vessels of war. Owing, 
■however, to the difficult navigation of the Potomac River, it 
has never been important as a building station. Its machine 
'shops, however, are extensive and interesting, for this has 
long been one of the chief Government establishments for 
jconstructing the equipment for war vessels. 

To-day there is comparatively little of interest to attract 
ithe tourist. The historic entrance gate, designed by Benjamin 
H. Latrobc, has given place to a modern gateway ; the spa- 
joious parade ground has been largely built over with machine 
jshops, and the original Commandant's House, purposely placed 
iby Latrobe, in the center of the upper part of the Yard, where 
"the whole Yard would be under his eye," is no longer stand- 
iing, although the present Commandant's House occupies its 
site. There is a Museum which contains trophies from the 
iBritish, Mexican and Civil Wars ; also two 0"ld-fashioned 
bronze miuzzle-loading cannon, made in Barcelona in 1788, 
and captured from the Tripolitans by Decatur in 1814. 



4o8 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

b. The Congressional Cemetery 

The Congressional Cemetery is most directly reached 
from the Navy Yard by walking E. on Potomac Ave. (one 
mile). The visitor, however, will save exertion, if not time, 
by taking the trolley N. on 8th St., and transferring to the 
Pennsylvania Ave. line southeast to 17th St. 

The *Congressional Cemetery (PI. Ill — ^F6), compris- 
ing a tract of about 30 acres, is situated at the extreme S. E. 
corner of the city, overlooking the x\nacostia River, and 
bounded on the W. by 17th St., and on the N. by Potomac 
Ave. and E St. It is the property of the Vestry of Christ 
Church (p. 406), and is officially known as "The Washington 
Parish Burial Ground." Reached directly by Pennsylvania 
Ave. car marked "17th Street S. W." 

When this cemetery was first established in 1807, it was chosen 
by Congress as the place of internment for practically all Senators, 
Representatives and Executive Officers who died in office. Because of 
its semi-official character, the Government has from time to time 
made appropriations for its maintenance and improvement. Until 
abovit 1835 practically every member of Congress who died while 
holding office was buried here. But gradually, as facilities for trans- 
portation increased, it became easier for relatives to bury their dead 
at their former homes; and by 1855 interment of non-resident officials 
had practically ceased. Meanwhile, however, the custom had grown 
up of erecting a cenotaph in memory of each Senator or Representa- 
tive who died in office, notwithstanding that they were buried elsewhere. 
The precedent was first established in case of the Hon. John Lent of 
New York, who died February 23d, 1838. 

These official monuments and cenotaphs, unique in their ugliness, 
form the most striking feature of the cemetery. They are of sand- 
stone and consist of a six-foot square base, surmounted by a pyramidal 
top reaching to a height of about five feet. The inscriptions show fre- 
quent carelessness, the stone-cutter having been often content to leave 
the dates blank. It is not known who selected this form of monument; 
but from the time of the erection of the first one by the Government 
in 1807 (for Sen. Uriah Tracy of Conn.), the pattern was adhered 
to until 1877. when an Act abolishing the custom was passed on motion 
of Senator Hoar, who argued that "it certainly added new terrors to 
death to propose that in any contingency, whatever might be the poverty 
or degradation of any member of Congress, his body should be put 
under a structure similar to those now there." 

The official interments include to Senators, 74 Representatives and. 
a miscellaneous list of 25 others, civil and military. Among the latter 
were formerly General Rawlins, War Secretary under Grant. Abe! 
P. ITpshur, Secretary _ of State under Tyler and Captain Beverley 
Kennon, the last two killed by an explosion on the Warship Princetoft, 
February 28th, 1844. A1>ove three subsequently removed. 

There are two gates_ on the 17th St. side, adjacent to the 
trollev terminus. The main entrance is on E St. side, adjoining 
the Superintendent's lodge. East of the lodge lies the chief 
.'section of interest, containing a majority of the oldest gravesj 
The path following the northern fence is Tingey Ave., named 



THE CONGRESSIONAL CEMETERY ^09 

from the first grave on R. beyond the lodge, that of Commo- 
dore Tingey (1750-1829), second in command in the Algerian 
War. 

Continuing E. on Tingey Ave,, we reach, near eastern 
corner of third transverse path to S., a conspicuous marble 
monument to Elbridge Gerry, Mass. (1744-1814), Signer and 
Vice-President of the United States, whose name gave the 
verb, "to gerrymander." The monument consists of a pyra- 
midal shaft surmounted by an urn and flaming torch 
(/r'. and J. F razee, New York, sculptors). Erected by Act 
of Congress. The inscription embodies Gerry's memorable 
injunction, "It is the duty of every citizen, though he may 
have but one day to live, to devote that day to the good of his 
country." Immediately behind (E.) the Gerry grave are 
four monuments to the Lear family, the southernmost (flat 
table-stone) marking the grave of Tobias Lear, the last private 
Secretary of Washington. 

Twenty^five ft. S. of the Lear lot is the grave of Richard 
Bland Lee (1761-1827), a distinguished member of the historic 
Lee family. 

Immediately adjoining the Lee grave, on SAV., is the 
monument to Hugh George Campbell, Captain U.S.N. (1758- 
1820), who was a volunteer on the first vessel of war In 
1775. Southwest, on E. side of path, about 80 ft. from Tingey 
Ave., is the grave of Chevalier Frederick Grehum, German 
Minister to the U.S. (1770-1823), The inscription records that 
the monument was erected "by order of His Majesty Frederick 
William III, King of Prussia." The next grave S. is that 
of Catherine de Bresson, wife of an attache of the French 
Ministry; and next in order, the grave of Pushmataha (1764- 
1824), a Choctaw Chief. 

During the Pensacola campaign Pushmataha served loyally under 
Jackson with 2500 Braves. Subseciuently with his tribe he settled in 
Arkansas, and in 1824 came to Washington at the head of a delega- 
tion "to brighten the chain of peace between the Americans and the 
Choctaws." The concessions he requested were granted, but Push- 
mataha himself, returning from a visit to General Lafayette, was 
stricken with diphtheria and died. His last request was "When I am 
dead let the big guns be fired over me.!' The inscription on the 
tombstone contains the following lines from the eulogy pronounced by 
John Randolph of Roanoke: "Pushmataha was a warrior of great 
distinction. He was wise in counsel, eloquent in an extraordinary 
degree, and, on all occasions and under all circumstances, the white 
man's friend." 

On W. side of path facing the Grehum grave is that 
of George Hadfield (died 1826), and next to him lies William 
Elliott (both architects of the Capitol). A few feet S. lie 
William Thornton, the original designer of the Capitol (1762- 



410 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

1829) ; and beside him his wife, Anna, and her mother, Ann 
Brocieau. Further S. lies Walter Jones (1775-1861), who 
served in the Battle of Bladens.burg, and later, for nearly 
fort3' years, was Brig. Gen. of the D. C. Militia. 

Near the center of the grounds is a small Gothic chapel, 
erected 1903. The first conspicuous monument, N.E, from 
this chapel, is a broken column of marble marking the grave 
of Gen. Jacob Brown (1775-1828). at the time of his death 
Commanding General of the American Army. 

Other distinguished persons here interred include : Philip 
Pendleton Barbour (1783-1841), Justice of the U.S. Supreme 
Court; Joseph Lovell (1788-1836), Surgeon General of the 
U. S. Army, and John W. Maury and John T. Powers, 
ex-Mayors of Washington. Among those whose remains rested i 
here temporarily were: President Taylor, John C. Calhoun | 
and Mrs. Dolly Madison (the latter from February iith, i 
1852, to January 12th, 1858; removed to Virginia). 

The extensive group of buildings directly N.E. of the 
cemetery include the Small-pox Hospital, Quarantine Sta-i 
tion, Disinfection Plant and Crematory; also the Washing-] 
ton Asylum and Jail. In the latter Charles Guiteau, the! 
assassin of President Garfield, was confined and executed, jj 

Returning W. on Pennsylvania Ave., we pass on S. 
side, between 9th and loth Sts. S.E., the headquarters of the! 
United States Naval Rescrz'c. Directly W., at the S.E. cor. 
of 9th St., the visitor should note the Eastern Branch Hotel, 
or "Tunniclifif's Tavern," believed to be the oldest surviving 
structure within the former city limits. The date of its 
erection is not known, but there is a record of its sale in 
1795. and the following 3'ear it was opened as a tavern byi 
William Tunnicliff, later proprietor of the Washington City 
Hotel 

The building is a quaint square two-story structure, measuring] 
thirty-six feet each way. It is massively built, the foundation and; 
basement walls being three feet thick. It is surmounted By a steep,^ 
sloping roof, and an octagonal cupola. Having been built before!,' 
Fennsylvania Ave. was cut through, it originally fronted on an oldli 
road leading to the "Upper Ferry" of the Eastern Branch, and later! 
to the "Middle Bridge," constructed in i795. which brought a steady 
tlow of traffic past the tavern. In its immediate neighborhood was the' 
first race-track established in the District. The tavern itself was tho 
scene of the first ball given by the Washington Dancing Assembly,: 
in December, 1796. 

After passing through several hands, this property was purchasfdl 
in 1821 by Captain William Easby, a ship-builder, who for mar.yi 
years was employed as Master-builder in the Washington Navy Yard;; 
and it remained the home of the Easby family until 1857. The 
ground in the vicinity was so marshy that it was necessary for manyi 



WASHINiGTO'N SOUTHEAST 411 

^^ears to maintain a ditch, or moat, on the Pennsylvania Ave. front, 
roni which fact the house was long afterward popularly known by the 
lame of "Warwick." 

At 8th St. Pennsylvania and South Carolina Aves. inter- 
sect. Just N., on 7th St., near C St., stands the Eastern High 
School. Two squares E., at intersection with North Carolina 
Ave., is a small rectangular park called Seward Place. 

Facing this park, at S. W. cor. of 5th St., stands Trinity 
M. E. Church, successor to the Ehenczcr M. E. Church (or- 
ganized 1802). This, the oldest Methodist church in Wash- 
ington, held its first meetings in a private dwelling on 
Greenleaf's Point; then, 1807-11, in the Carroll Tobacco 
House ; then in a new building on 4th St., between South 
Carolina Ave. and G St. When in 1857 the congregation 
moved to the present site, the former church was demolished. 
The present edifice dates from 1896. 

No. 206 Pennsylvania Ave. S.E,, is the building in which 
for a time the United States Supreme Court met after the 
burning of the Capitol in 1814, It is now temporarily occu- 
pied by the International Reform Bureau, organized in 1895 
'for the purpose of "promoting those Christian reforms on 
which the churches sociologically unite, while theologically 
differing." 

The Bureau has a library of several thousand volumes and a 
large collection of clippings, which will be open to the public for 
ireference upon the completion of the Bureau's permanent home at 
the corner of Pennsylvania Ave. and B St. S.E. 

One block S. on 2d St., at S.W. cor. of C St. S.E., 
stands St. Peter's Church, the second oldest R. C. church 
in Washington. The first holdings of this church consisted 
of a tract given by Danrel Carroll to his brother, Bishop 
(Carroll. The corner-stone of the first edifice was laid in 
1817, and the first Mass celebrated in 1821. The present 
church is a handsome Gothic structure of light gray stone, 
erected on the old site in 1890, at a cost of $100,000. 
Note the bas-relief lunettes over the three entrances on the 
'main fagade, representing scenes from the life of St. Peter, 
|the central one showing Christ presenting to Peter the Key 
of the Church. 

j^ One block S. on D St. is the Providence Hospital, founded 
!in 1862 by the Sisters of Charity. The buildings were erected 
, with the aid of Government appropriation, amounting to 
j $60,000, obtained through the efforts of Thaddeus Stevens. 



412 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

III. Anacostia 

The suburb of Anacostia (PI. Ill — ^Gs), lying on the S. 
side of the Anacostia River, or Eastern Branch, diagonally 
opposite the Navy Yard, preserves in name the Nacoch- 
tanks or Anacostans, once a part of the great Powhatan Con- 
federacy, whose hunting grounds included this district. Early 
chronicles tell how for sake of the "goodly corne fields," 
the pinnace Tiger, with 26 men, was sent out from James- 
town, Va., about the year 163 1, to trade with the Indians 
near the head of navigation on the Potomac River. They 
were attacked, and were all killed or taken prisoners. Among 
the latter was a young man, Henry Fleet, who was held 
captive for five years, and learned the Powhatan language 
which, when later ransomed, he used to much advantage on 
subsequent trading trips described in Brief Journal of a 
J'oyage (1632). Numerous arrowheads have been found on 
the slopes near the Navy Yard bridge. 

The full form of the Indian name is given as Anaquash{e)tanU)k, 
which is interpreted to mean ""A Town of Traders." The 

Jesuits who came out with Lord Baltimcre Latinized the 
Indian name, giving us the present form Anacostia. The use of this 
name for the river, in place of Eastern Branch, was due to a suggestion 
bj-- Thomas Jefferson who, in 1792, requested Major EUicott to ascertain 
the original name of the stream and add it to the name Eastern Brancli. 

The name Anacostia was formerly applied to the whole suburban 
section across the river, southeast from Washington. As early as 1795 
James Greenleaf foresaw" the future possibilities of these suburbs, and 
purc'hased land "on the meanders of the Eastern Branch, close by 
Anacostia Fort," probably on the present Congress Heights. There 
was already established an Eastern Branch ferry, connecting with the 
L^pper Marlboro Road, and running from a point at the foot of what 
is now Kentucky Ave. Here a bridge was built in 1795, known as 
the Upper Bridge. The establishment of the Navy Yard created a need 
for additional connection, and in 181 8 the Navy Yard Bridge was built 
from the foot of nth St. Down to about 1850 the site now covered 
by the modern Anacostia, directly opposite the Navy Yard, was all 
farmland, comprismg about 240 acres, and owned by one Enoch Tucker, 
boss blacksmith in the Navy Yard. In 1854 this land was bought by 
the real estate firm of Fox & Van Hook for $19,000, and divided into 
building lots. The newly established settlement was first called L^nion- 
town, but a few years later the name was changed back to Anacostia. 

Van Hook's residence, known as Cedar Hill, later became 
the home of Frederick Douglass, the only colored man withiri 
the District of Columbia to be appointed United States Mar-; 
shal, and the first Recorder of Deeds. The property was} 
later acquired by the Frederick Douglass Memorial 
Association, 

On the river's edge, opposite the Navy Yard, was the 
mansion of George W. Talburtt. An ancient remnant is stil" 
pointed out which is claimed to be part of the original dwell^ 



ANACOSTIA 413 

ing. G.. W. Talburtt and John Howard Pa3ne, author of 
"Home, Sivect Home," were intimate friends and boon com- 
panions : 

"They used to sit for hours together under the spreading branches 
3f an old tree, singing and playing favorite airs; and it is a matter of 
neighborhood gossip that jolly old Bacchus lookedi' on approvingly on 
:hose occasions." — George Siinmon<-, "Roadside Sketches." (^Evening 
Star, 1891.) 

Aside from the associations o^f the old Talhurtt place 
with John Howard Payne, there is little to attract the visitor 
to the S. side of the river. The higher ground, southward 
from the shore, bears the modern name of Congress Heights, 
where a large tract is occupied by St. Elizabeth's Hospital 
(PI. HI — H5 — No. 68), from the grounds of which there is 
an almost unrivalled view of Washington, which has been 
reproduced on at least one issue of Government greenbacks. 

St. Elizabeth's Hospital is a National instituticrij under charge of 
the Interior Department, for the treatment of the insane of the army, 
lavy, marine corps, revenue cutter and marine hospital service, also 
ndigent insane persons who have received honorable discharge from 
army or navy, and the indigent insane of the District of Colurribia. 
General visitors are admitted to the hospital on Wednesdays between 
b and 4-3o P. M. 
( 

( Northeast of Anacostia is the suburb known as Tzvining 
X^ity, named in honor of the late Major William J. Twining, 
ifor many years the Engineer Commissioner of the District. 
It lies along the E. extension of Pennsylvania Ave.; and the 
bridge which here spans the Eastern Branch, completed in 
1890 at a cost of $170,000, marks the site of the historic old 
Wooden bridge which was burned Aug. 24, 1814,, by the 
authorities to check the British advance from the south. 
Just beyond the bridge, where Pennsylvania Ave. intersects 
with Minnesota Ave. (the new name for the old Anacostia 
l^oad), is L'Enfant Square, the only topographical reminder 
iWith'.n the District of the man who planned Washington. 
Minnesota Ave., though broadened and modernized, is the 
identical road over which the British, under General Ross, 
marched when they fought and won the battle of Bladens- 
l^urg. 

1 North of Twining City is the suburb of Benning, named 
m honor of its founder, Captain William Benning, who built 
the historic old B'enning mansion, about 1799, and constructed 
ihe first toll bridge at this point in 1830. The modem Ben- 
'ning occupies part of a large tract granted by Charles H. 
|to one Charles Beall, a Scotchman by birth, and brother of 
Ninian Beall (p. 462), founder of Georgetown. 



THE NORTHERN AND WESTERN 
SUBURBS 

I. Bladensburg, Brookland and Vicinity 

a. Bladensburg 
Bladensburg, Md., situated N. E. of Washington about 
iK' miles beyond the District Line, is reached most directly 
by the Columbia trolley line to 15th and H Sts. N, E, ; thence 
north by Bladensburg and Berwyn line along the old coach 
road to Baltimore (cars run at intervals of 40 minutes). 
Half a mile out, at N. \V. cor. of Mt. Olivet and Bladensburg 
Roads, we pass the Catholic Cemetery of Mt. Olivet. Here 
may be seen the grave of Mrs. Suratt, the only woman 
among the convicted conspirators who were hanged for the 
assassination of Lincoln ; also the grave of Captain Henry 
Wirtz, the notorious Keeper of Andersonville prison. A^l 
mile beyond Mt. Olivet Cemetery we reach, on R., thei 
grounds of the U. S. Reform School (PI. Ill^C?) tht 
principal buildings of which occupy the crest of a sloping hil 
formerly known as Lincoln's Hill, a fort of that name having 
occupied the site during the Civil \\'ar. Beyond the 
Reform School the road slopes down into a hollow just 
beyond the District boundary, and is carried on a concrete 
arch over a small tributary of the Anacostia River. In the 
hollow on the east side of the road is the famous Bladensburc 
Duelling Ground. 

More than thirty duels are said to have been fought on this spot 
the most famous being: that between Commodore Stephen Decatur and 
Commodore Tames Barron on March 226, 1820, when the forme 
was killed, just E. of the road, the stream which flows Under the 
bridge joins a transverse stream forming a letter T. The left OJ 
N. angle of the T is the spat where Decatur fell. 

Other notable duels are as follows: Here in 1814, Captain Edwarc' 
Hopkins was slain in a duel with swords. On February 6th, 181 9 
General Armistead T. Mason, formerly Senator, fought with Col. Johr 
M. M'Carty, both of Virginia. Mason was killed. Here in i8j5 
Henry Clay is said to have fought his bloodless duel with John Ran 
dolph, of Roanoke. In 1821, two employees of the Government, Fox 
and Randall, fought, the former being killed. On April 24th, 1838'! 
two members of the House, Jonathan Cilley of Maine and William J 
Craves, of Kentucky, fought here. Cilley being killed. In 1851. t\vci 
other me^nbers of Congress, Stanley and Inge, exchanged shots, sho )ki 
hands and returned to Washington together. 

It was in the immediate vicinity of the Duelling Grounds 
that Barney and his rear guard of 520 men made their gallaiiti 
stand against the British during the Bat:lc of BladeusburgI 



BLADENSlBURG AND BROOKLAND 415 

while on the rising ground half a mile further on, was the 
scene of the disastrous rout o-f the troops under General 
Winder, A modern concrete bridge over the Anacostia or 
Eastern Branch here leads us directly into the ancient village 
of Bladensburg. 

This village was incorporated in 1742, and named in honor of 
Sir Thomas Bladen, the Governor of Maryland. In its early years 
it was a thriving commercial town, and large barges, laden with 
tobacco, came and went on the Anacostia, which was then a navigable 
river, but has since shrunken to a shallow and sluggishi stream. It was 
at Bladensburg that Clark Mills, the sculptor, had his work shops and 
foundry; here also was born William Wirt, the distinguished Jurist, 
once Atty,-General of the United States. 

! Aside from the quaint old houses along its principal street, 
'there is little in the town itself to interest the visitor. It has 
the appearance of havmg slumbered since the close of the 
fSth century. The old George Washington Hotel, where 
Washington is said to have stopped, bears the date of 1732, 
and a little further up the street is the Palo Alto House, in- 
scribed 1734. 

Calvert Estate. The land N. of Bladensburg for a dis- 
|:ance of about two miles, reaching to Point Branch, along 
i:he southern boundary of the present grounds of the Mary- 
''>and Agricultural College, and comprising 16,000 acres, was 
'ormerly an estate belonging to a branch of the Maryland 
Calverts who traced their descent to Benet Calvert, father 
'|)f the sixth Lord Baltimore, who, in 1728, was appointed 
Collector of Internal Revenue in the Province of Prince 
jeorge, now Prince George County, Maryland, The old Lord 
.Baltimore Mansion, said to date from about 1775, is still 
standing and is in excellent preservation. 

It is reached from Bladensburg either by taking Bladensburg-Ber- 
yyn trolley to Riversdale and then walking a mile west; or by 
>'alking W. from Bladensburg to Hyattsville and taking Maryland 
rolley line N. to Riversdale, where the stopping place is almost 
pposite the Mansion. 

Originally the Mansion occupied the centre of the estate, and a 
emi-circular drive a mde in length led from the northern gateway 
outhward to the main entrance. The house remained in possession 
f the Calvert family until almost the close .of the 19th century. The 
rounds, however, were gradually sold off; the tracks of the Baltimore 
nd Ohio R. R., passing within a few hundred feet of the Mansion, 
1 arly cut the estate in two; and the modern village of Rivers- 
ale has steadily encroached until only a fraction of the original 
Toperty remains. The slave-quarters and spacious stables that could 
helter 500 horses were still standing in 1885, when they were d«s- 
oyed by fire from a spark from a passing engine. 

The title to the Mansion and remaining grounds was acquired by 
le Riversdale Land Company, by whom it was conveyed to a Mrs, 

K. Gordan, to whose extensive repairs the old building owes 
s present good condition. It is now occupied by the Lord Balti- 



4i6 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

more Country Club, and is not officially open to the public. Strangers, 
however, applying during tne morning hours will usually receive permis- 
sion to visit the rooms on the main floor. 

The Mansion, designed by Henry J. Stier, an exiled 
architect from Antwerp, is distinctly on the English order of 
the period, and contains forty rooms. According to tradi- 
tion the marble columns of the N. portico were originally 
cut for use in the Capitol ; but having by a blunder been 
cut too short, they were purchased by the Calverts to replace; 
the original sandstone columns. From the broad entrance i 
hall one enters the large central ball-room, opening upon a 
spacious veranda at the rear ; while on either side are door- 
ways opening respectively into the drawing-room on W. and 
the dining-room on E. The latter was formerly completely 
surrounded by an elaborate frieze of hunting scenes, but the 
walls were later papered and the fresco ruined. Beyond 
the dining-room a short flight of steps leads down to the 
long, high-ceilinged breakfast room; while the corresponding 
space at the W, end of the house contains the library withj 
its two quaint built-in bookcases ; and beyond it the Coach 
house with its broad doorway still intact. Henry Clay and 
Daniel Webster were often entertained here, and one of the 
upstairs rooms is still known as the Henry Clay room. South 
of the Mansion may still be seen the scanty remainder of 
what was once a spacious lake, formerly supplied from the 
then abundant waters of the Anacostia River. It w^as on an 
island in the centre of this lake that Henry Clay is said to 
have drafted his famous Missouri Compromise Bill. 

From Riversdale the visitor may make a pleasant trip northward! 
through Bcrwyn to Laurel on the borderline of Prince George's Co., I 
passing the Maryland Agricultural College (cars to Laurel run at onej 
hour interval.) The Maryland Line offers the quickest return route 
from Bladensburg to Washington (cars run every fifteen minutes). 
Tourists who do not mind a little extra walking can save time on the 
whole Bladensburg-Riversdale trip by taking the Maryland Line (termin il 
at G and 15th Sts.) to Hyattsville, walking east to Bladensburg and 
Duelling Grounds, then returning and continuing by trolley to* 
Riversdale. 

b. The 'Catholic University of America 

*The Catholic University of America (PI. Ill— B5) 
occupies a 144-acre tract in the northern section of Brookland. 
situated on the N. side of Michigan Ave. and bounded on tlie! 
E. by Brookland Ave. and on the W. by Harewood Road, whi^^h 
separates it from the grounds of the Soldiers' Home (p. 43-'^ 
Inclusive of a number of affiliated organizations, it already^ 
comprises a group of 24 buildings. 



THE CATHOLIC UNIVERSITY OF AMERICA 417 




Key to Ntimcees 

Caldwell Hall 
MnMahon Hall , 
Albert Hall 
Engineering Building 
Gibbons Hall 
Practical Mechanics 

Building . 
Observatory 
St. Thomas College 
Apostolic Mission 

House 
Marisl College 
Holy Cross College . 
College of the Immac- 
ulate Conception 
University, B. & O. R. 

R. Station . " 
:Malpney Chemical 

Laboratory 
St. Austin's College 
. College of the Holy 
Land 
Tiimtv College 
Dming Hall 
Co!k'2;e of St Paul the 
Apostle 




.^ri\ 



"\i 



THE CATHOLIC UNIVERSITY 
OF AMERICA 

1916 



SCALE Of Peer 



eS 



29 



4i8 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Reached by North Capitol St. trolley (marked ''Brook- 
land") from terminal near Treasury Building. Also by Balti- 
more and Ohio R. R. to station in S. E. cor. of University 
grounds. 

History. While the first expressed desire to found a Catholic 
University in the United States .dates back to 1866, it was not until 
Xovember, 18S4, at the Third Plenary Council, Baltimore, that it was 
decided to establish a seminariutn principale as a nucleus for the pro- 
posed seat of learning. An executive board was appointed, composed 
of Bishops and prominent laymen, through whom the Middleton estate 
in Brookland (69 acres) was acquired, and the University duly incor- 
porated under the laws of the District of Columbia. In March, 1889, 
the constitution of the University was approved, and the power to grant 
degrees was conferred by Pone Leo XIII. Chiefly through the gift of 
$300,000 by Aliss Mary Gwendolin Caldwell of Newport, R. I. (later 
the Marquise des Monstiers de Merinville), Caldwell Hall was erected, 
in which, on Nov. 18, 1889, the School of Sacred Sciences was opened. 
In 189 1, the Rev. James McMahon, for forty years a pastor in New- 
York City, transferred to the University his entire patrimony which, 
through the great rise of New York real estate values, had increased 
to $400,000. With this sum McMahon Hall was erected and here in 
1895, the Schools of Philosophy and of the Social Sciences were opened. 
Subsequently the latter school was divided into the Schools of Law 
and of Philosophy, and later certain departments of the School of 
Philosophy were developed respectively into the Schools of Science 
and Letters 

An important factor in the development of the Universitv 
has been the affiliation of the various institutions of the reli- 
gious orders that are grouped about the University. These 
are, with dates of establishment: St. Thomas College (p. 422), 
1889; Marist College (p. 42^2), 1891 ; Holy Cross College 
(p. 422), 1895; College of the Holy Land (p. 429). 189/ : | 
St. Austin's College, 1901 : The Apostolic Mission House 
(p. 421), 1902; College of the Immaculate Conception (p. 421), 
1903; Chaminade Institute, 181 5. Also two institutions for] 
the higher education of women under Catholic auspices : j 
Trinity College, 1897; The Catholic Sisters' College (p. 423). | 
1914- I 

Government. By the Papal constitution the government of the L^m- ; 
versity is vested in" the Bishop of the L'nited States, with the Arch- ? 
bishop of Baltimore as perpetual Chancellor. This authority -is dele- , 
gated to a Board of thirty Trustees, composed of .\rchbi>-hops and , 
Bishops. Priests and laymen. The ordinary administration of the _Unr- 
versitv is exercised in the name of the Chancellor by a Rector, assisted ! 
bv an Academic Senate, composed of the Deans of faculties, heads n{ ; 
LTniversity Colleges and two elected members of each faculty. 

The teaching staff has grown from a nucleus of four professors, all 
Europeans, — two Germans, a Belgian and a Frenchman. Today the 
staff includes 75 teachers, aboiit one-third of whom are priests. With 
few exceptions they are Americans by birth, notably the lay professors. 
Practically all of them are Catholics. 

The average visitor will leave the trolley on Michigan!; 
Ave. at a point just beyond the College of the Immaculate 



THE CATHOOC UNIVERSITY OE AMERICA 419 

Conception (p. 422) on the S., and will enter the middle gate of 
the University grounds between the two dormitory buildings, 
Albert Hall on the R., and Gibbo*ns Hall on the L. Pro- 
ceeding as nearly N. as the winding path permits, he will 
reach the most northwestern building of the University. 
and the first to be erected, Caldzvell Hall. This building, 
constructed through private generosity, of which $200,000 
from the Caldwell fund formed the nucleus, received the 
original stafif of four theological professors and the pioneer 
band of 38 young priest students. It is to-day seriously over- 
crowded, because it is still burdened with various administra- 
tion offices, and with the class-room work of several faculties 
other than the theological. 

The main entrance on the W. side is often closed, but the small S. 
door is usually open. The main corridor, running N. and S., contains 
some interesting portraits: Among them: i. Francis Drexel, of Phila- 
delphia, in whose honor the Chair of Moral Theology was established; 
2. Theodore B. Basselin (1851-1914), who left a bequest of nearly 
$1,000,000 for Uie purpose of creating Basselin College, an institution 
to train young men for the priesthood, specializing in Ecclesiastical 
Elocution; 3. Eugene Kelly, (who founded the Chair of Ecclesiastical 
History) by Daniel Huntington ; 4. Joseph Banigan, of Providence, R. I, 
(who founded the Chair of Political Economy), by H. G. Brettl; 5. Dr. 
Thomas F. Andrews, of Norfolk, \"a. (in whose honor his daughters 
founded the Andrews Chair of Biblical Archaeology) ; 6. Rt. Rev. 
T. J. Shahan, Rector of the University. 

Midway on W. of corridor are the University parlors. In 
6^. parlor are several paintings, including the following: i. 
Archbishop Ryan, presented by his sister Margaret Ryan 
Bowen, by Benedict A. Osnis (b. 1872) ; 2. *The last Mo- 
ments of Pope Leo XIII, by Cecile de Wentworth, Rome, 
1903 .(gift of John D. Crimmins). The figures in this im- 
pressive picture are authentic portraits of Cardinals Ram- 
polla. Serafino Vannutelli, V'ives, Oreola Ferrata and Dr. 
Lapponi. 

East Wall. Pius X, by A. Ury. 

_ North Wall. Cardinal Martinelli, by Thomas Eakins. 
This parlor also contains many costly objects of art, forming 
part of the Basselin bequest. 

North Parlor, On N. wall are two spacious panels in 
mosaic recording the long list of endowments, including 
twenty professorships, four Eellowships,. thirty-seven indi- 
vidual scholarships and fifty full scholarships endowed in 
perpetuity by the Knights of Columbus. 

Opposite the parlors, on E. side of main corridor, is the 
*Ca!dwcll Hall Chapel, built on the order of a Roman Ba- 
silica. Note at entrance a marble Madonna, by Meyer Bros., 
of Munich. 



420 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

The Chapel contains 19 altars, at which the Holy Sacri- 
fice is offered daily by resident priests. The beautiful 
stained-glass windows are 17 in number; the 12 on the N. 
and S. sides of the nave contain representations of Saints of 
the church, and under each, in Latin, is an invocation for a , 
bestowal of the special Christian virtue attributed to the Saint: 
I. e. first window on S., "Sancte Vincenti a Paulo, impetra 
nobis Caritatcm erga Paupcres" ("Holy St. Vincent de 
Paul, bestow upon us Charity toward the Poor"). These I 
windows and the virtues respectively represented are as | 
follows : 

North side, W. to E. : i. St. Francis Xavier: Zeal for the Salva- 
tion of Souls; 2. St. Thomas Aquinas: The Gift of Knowledge; 3. St. 
Leo the Great: Reverence for the Apostolic See; 4. St. John the Bap- 
tist: The Spirit of Fortitude; 5. St Peter: Steadfast Faith; 6. Mary 
the Immaculate: Chastity. 

South side, W. to E.: 7. St. Vincent de Paul: Charity toward the 
Poor; 8. St. Francis de Sales: The Gift of Piety; 9. St. Augustine: Gift 
of Intellect; 10. St. John the Evangelist: The Gift of Oratory; 11. St. 
Paul: Consuming Love; 12. St. Joseph: Humanity. 

The five windows in the apse depict leading scenes in the Gospel 
Story. I. Central or East Window: The Coronation of the Virgin; 
(on L.) 2. The Sermon on the Mount; 3. The Raising from the Dead; 
(on R.) 4. The Giving of the Keys to Peter; 5. The Ascension. 

The main stairway ascends to R. and L. of chapel 
entrance, but visitors are not allowed on the upper floors. 
The N. E. wing is devoted to the Law School Moot Court, 
having all the accessories of a modern court room. 

McMahon Hall is situated immediately S. E. of Caldwell 
Hall. It was, as above stated, the gift of the Rt. Rev. Mon- 
signor James McMahon, and was inaugurated October 1st, 
1895. It is designed on the Romanesque order of architecture, 
and consists of a basement of Port Deposit granite, and_ a 
three-story superstructure of Potomac blue-stone, with trim 
of Woodstock granite. Dimensions : 250 ft. in length by 105 
ft. in depth at centre. Total cost $350,000. 

Through the main S. doorway the visitor enters the 
spacious central lobby, occupying the whole width of the 
lower floor. On N. side between windows, stands a finely 
wrought marble statue, heroic size, of *Pope Leo XIII, by 
Giuseppe Luchetti, dated Rome, 1890. On E. bronze bust of 
John Boyle O'Reilly, by Sattiuel K'itson; on W.. marble bu-^t 
of Archbishop Williams, of Boston, also by Kitson. 

The General Library of the University, including stacks 
and reading room, is located in the N. wing, ground floor. 
The reading room in N. W. cor., contains a marble bust of 
St. Thomas Aquinas, presented by the English, Scotch and 



THE CATHO'LIC UNIVERSITY OF AtMERICA 421 

Irish residents of Rome. Guglielmi, sculptor. The inscrip- 
tion on the pedestal is by a renowned Roman Latinist, Father 
Anfonins Angelini. 

The general library is open to the public for reference, 9 A, M. to 
5 P. M. daily except Sundays; the circulating library is for professors 
and students only. The resources are approximately 100,000 volumes 
and pamphlets. Special features of the collection' include: "The Stade 
Library," donated by the late E. Francis Riggs, Esq., valuable for 
Biblictal study; "The Botiquilloii Library,'' mainly sociological and 
moral; the "Michael Jenkins Collection of Marylandiana"; the "'Alfred 
Rose collection on Monumental Brasses"; and "The Shakespeare Col- 
lection," bequest of the late Rev. D. J. Stafford, D. D. 

The Assembly Room, on the second floor, facing stairs, 
contains a number of portraits, including an unsigned George 
Washington and, above the rostrum, *P'ope Leo XIII, by 
G. Ugoliri, presented by His Holiness March' 19th, 1889* 

The Gensral Museum, situated on the third floor is open weekdays 
to the public. It includes at present the following collections. 
The Wilcox Collection of fossils and minerals, presented in 1889-90; 
The Oriental Collection of manuscripts, tablets and coins, donated in 
1889 by Professor Hyvernat,, Andrews Professor of Biblical Archae- 
ology; The Lindesmith Collection of Indian War relics, presented in 
1893 by Rev. E. W. J. Lindesmith, Chaplain U. S. A.; The Jannet 
Collection of coins and medals, about 1700 in number, donated by M. 
Claudio Jannet, of Paris. 

The building in the extreme S.E. cor. of the University 
grounds is the new Martin Maloucy Chemical Laboratory (1914- 
17), erected from designs by Murphy & Olmsted, at a cost of 
approximately $200,000. Like the recently erected Graduates' Hall 
and Gibbons Memorial Hall it is in the Tudor Gothic style of 
architecture, the exterior walls being of Port Deposit granite 
with Indiana limestone trimmings. Thej building has a 
frontage of 270 ft., and consists of a four-story central pavil- 
ion and two wings of three stories each, containing alto*- 
gether a floor apace of 40,000 sq. ft. 

In addition to the laboratories for Metallurgy and Assaying, Indus- 
trial Chemistry, Electro-chemistry, Oirganic-chemistry, Quantitative Anal- 
ysis, etc., this building contains the Chemical Museum and the Chemi- 
cal Library. The former, occupying the first floor of the pavilion, con- 
tains CGillections illustrating both inorganic and organic chemistry. Its 
special feature is its large collection of samples of crude and refined 
products of chemical industry received from manufacturing chemists in 
all parts of the United States and Europe. 

The Chemical Library has specialized on Historical chemistry, and 
possesses many original papers of eiehteenth-century chemists. It also 
has a collection of 4000 dissertations and monographs, and is especially 
rich in the periodical literature of chemistry. 

West of the Laboratory, and near the unfinished Uni- 
versity Dining-^Hall, is the Apostolic Mission House, an 
affiliated institution established as a Normal School for 
preachers. It offers to members of religious Orders facili- 



422 



RIDER'S WASHINGTON 



ties for specializing their knowledge of public speaking 
for missionary purposes. 

Occupying a rectangle that cuts into the N. W. cor. of the 
University grounds, are two other affiliated institutions, 
the Marist College (on 'E.) and Holy Cross College (on W.). 
The former was incorporated by priests of the Society of 
Alary who, in 1891, purchased the property in Brookland, 
known as Brook's Mansion. In 1897 they secured their pres- 
ent ten-acre tract, on which they erected their own building. 
The college has for its object the training of the Marist 
Scholastics in philosophical and theological sciences. Holy 
Cross College was established at Brookland in 1895, ^^^ 
soon afterward acquired its present twelve acres of land on 
which to erect its own building. Its purpose is to provide 
an ecclesiastical House of Studies for the Congregation of 
the Holy Cross in the United States. 

The College building, constructed of Indiana limestone and Ver- 
mont granite, was completed in 1899. The style is almost purely 
classical, and em.bodies features of the Palazzo Farnese at Rome, and 
the Lichtenstein Palace at Vienna. A. von Herbulis, architect. 

Northwest of Holy Cross College, on Pleasant Hill, stands 
Marist Seminary, founded in 1900 as an apostolic school for 
the purpose of giving preparatory training to young men 
wishing to become priests and members of the Society of 
Mary. Their present tract of seven acres was secured in 
1902 and a building was erected which is large enough to 
accommodate sixt}' pupils. 

On the S. side of Micliigan Ave., directly facing Gibbons 
Hall, is the College of the Immaculate Conception, the House 
of Studies for the Dominicans of the Province of St Joseph 
(which includes all of the United States easit of the Rocky 
Mountains). 

St. Joseph's Province was established in 1805, and for a century 
the members of the Order were educated at St. Rose's convent, near 
Springfield, Ky. (founded 1806), and at St. Joseph's convent, near 
Somerset, Ohio (fovmdcd 181 8). In 1906 the professors and students 
of the latter convent were transferred to their present home in Brook- 
land. The college ranks as a Studinm Fonnale, i. e., it has the right 
to confer degrees in theology. 

Some distance back from the avenue, and behind the 
Immaculate Conception College, is the College of St. Paul 
the Apostle, established under the auspices of the Paulist 
Fathers, as the ^Novitiate and Scholasticate of their Con- 
gregation, and does not receive students for general in- 
struction. It was established in 1889, and was the first insti- 
tution affiliated w'ith the University. Under the title of "St. 
Thomas' College" it occupied the old Middleton Mansion 



THE FRANCISCAN MOkNASTERY 423 

within the University grounds, until, in 1914, it was trans- 
ferred to its new building erected on a twenty-five-acre tract. 

At the N. E. cor. of the University grounds, on the op- 
posite side of the Baltimore and Ohio Railroad, is the re- 
cently established Catholic Sisters' College. This is an 
independent corporation, separaite and distinct from the Uni- 
versity; but graduate students of the college, upon passing 
required examinations, may receive University degrees. The 
chief purpose of the college is to afford higher education for 
Catholic Teaching Sisters. 

A short distance E. of the University, on Michigan Ave., 
stands St. Austin's College, founded in 1901 by the Society 
of St. Sulpice to prepare its members to become professors 
in the Society's various seminaries and colleges. 

c. The Franciscan Monastery 

The Franciscan Monastery of Mt. St. Sepulchre is sit- 
uated about half a mile to the N. E. of the Catholic University 
(take Brookland trolley to Quincy St., and then walk two 
blocks E.). The Monastery is open to visitors from 8 A. M. 
to 5 P. M., and for all services. Entrance on S. side. A 
Brother will show visitors to the chapels and grottoes. No 
admission fee is charged, but offerings for the church will l^e 
accepted. 

History. The order of Friars Minor, founded by St. Francis of 
Assisi in 1209, has always been closely associated with the Holy Land. 
St. Francis himself visited Palestine in 12 19, leaving behind him some 
of his disciples, who became the successors of the Crusaders, and there 
established a province which is still called the "Custody of the Holy 
Land." By a Bull of Clement VI (1342) the guardianship of the 
Holy Places at Jerusalem was committed to this Order, and they still 
retain it. This Custody of the H'oly Land is represented abroad l)y 
44 commissariats, located as follows: 24 in Europe, 13 in South and 
Central America, i each in Australia, Cuba, Canada and the Philippines, 
and 3 in the L"^nited States, namely: in Santa Barbara, Calif.; St. Louis, 
Mo., and lastly the Commissariat General in Washington, D. C. The 
last was formerly established in New York, until it was removed to 
Washington in 1889. The chief purposes of these commissariats is to 
promote interest in the holy places in Palestine, and to collect alms for 
their preservation and care, and for the training of missionaries for the 
Holy Land Missions, which include — besides Palestine — Armenia and 
Lower Egypt. 

The site of Mt. St. Sepulchre was, throughoiit the first half of 
the 19th century, the home of the McCeeney family, which in liter 
years had fallen into a desolate condition. In 1897 a Franciscan Friar 
recognized the rich possibilities of this site; the Holy See sanctioned 
the transfer of the commissariat; on March 19th, 1898 (the Feast of 
St. Joseph) the corner-stone was laid; and on Sept. 17th, 1899 (the 
Feast of the Stigmata of St. Francis) the church and monastery v.-ere 
dedicated. 



424 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

The visitor approaching the monastery is immediately 
struck with its unmistakable Byzantine atmosphere, a simpli- 
fied adaptation of the characteristics of Hagia Sophia at Con- 
stantinople, modified by certain purely Italian tendencies. In 
point of fact the church is built in the form of a five-fold 
cross; the large cross forming the main body of the church, 
while the small crosses are utilized as chapels. The architect 
of the monastery, inclusive of the church, was Aristides 
Leonori, of Rome, and the building of it was superintended 
by his brother, Pio Leonori. 

The five-fold cross was the coat-of-arms of the Latin Kingdom of 
Jerusalem, adopted by Godfrey de Bouillon. This tive-fold emblem, 
symbolic of the Five Wounds of the S-aviour, is reproduced on the 
gable of the church, in the Venetian mosaic pavement, and elsewhere 
again and again, emphasizing the scope and the plan of the institution. 

Before the main entrance to the church is a statue ot St. 
Francis in bronze, fondling a bird, one of his "little brothers 
and sisters." (Modeled by Rosignoli, and cast in Florence by 
G. Vignali.) 

From the office the visitor proceeds at once, through 
door on L., into the Sacristy. Among the paintings on the 
walls of the office and Sacristy, the two likely to attract the 
visitor's attention are a copy by Augustine Flenker of Hoff- 
man's Virgin of the Apocalypse, and a copy of a Botticelli 
Madonna by a Japanese artist, who has imbued it with a 
curiously Oriental atmosphere. 

Passing through the N. W. door, we enter the Chapel 
of St. Joseph, in the S. E. cor. of the church. On the altar 
is a statue of the Saint holding the Child Jesus. On either 
side are bas-reliefs representing (L.) the Espousal of the 
Blessed Virgin and Joseph; (R.) the Flight of the Holy 
Family into Egypt. Sculptor, John Barley, of Washington. 
On the E. wall is a large painting, The Death of St. Joseph, 
by Augustine Flenker. 

Passing through archway on N. (opposite altar) we fiiid 
ourselves at the eastern end of the central aisle, which with 
the transepts forms the large cross of the church. At the 
western end of this aisle, constituting the main entrance to 
the church, is a portico which supports the Altar of Calvary. 
At the opposite end, where we now stand, is the Holy Sep- 
ulchre. At the extremities of the N. and S. transepts are 
stately apses admitting abundant light through a series of 
stained-glass windows, portraying, with few exceptions. Saints 
of the three Orders of St. Francis. The prevailing tones of 
the wall decorations are cream and tan, harmonizing rest fully. 



THE FRANCISCAN MONASTERY 425 

In the middle of the eastern aisle, opposite the entrance 
to the Holy Sepulchre, is the Stone of Unction, being a copy 
of the Shrine in Jerusalem which protects the rock upon 
which the body of Christ was anointed for burial. Like the 
original, it consists of a slab of reddish stone, encased in 
black and white marble. At the four corners are lofty bronze 
candelabra, designed by Beumger Brothers, of New York. 
All the stone work was brought from Palestine. 

The Holy Sepulchre, at the E. end of the main aisle, is 
a reproduction of the Shrine built around the Tomb of Christ 
as it appears to-day in Jerusalem. According to tradition, 
this is the tomb which Joseph of Arimathea had caused to be 
hewn from the solid rock, in which a bench was left for the 
reception of the body. The tomb had the customary ante- 
chamber for mourners — now called the Chapel of the Angel, 
because it was there that the angel proclaimed to the women 
the Resurrection of Christ. 

Entering the vestibule, we find a pedestal similar to the 
one in Jerusalem, said to contain a fragment of the stone on 
which the angel was seated on the first Easter morn. Passing 
through the lower doorwa}^ beyond, we enter an exact replica 
of the inner tomb. 

Above the Holy Sepulchre, and reached by two flights 
of stairs (closed to the public except for Holy Communion), 
is the Altar of Thabor, commemorating the scene of the 
Transfiguration. Above the altar is a large relief panel, 
modeled from a picture by Dore, and showing Christ with 
Moses and Elias on either side. 

An interesting fact, which the guide will probably not mention, 
is that the figures in this bas-relief are movable. The substitute figure?, 
converting tht Transfiguration into tht Resurrection, are to be seen from 
Easter to Trinity Sunday. 

The Center Altar, at the crossing of the main aisle and 
transepts, is dedicated to the Mystery of the Most Holy 
Trinity. The large canopy covering the altar is reminiscent 
of the Papal Altar in St. Peter's, Rome. 

In the N. E. cor. is the Chapel of St. Francis of Assisi, 
the founder of the Franciscan Order. Above the altar is a 
sculpture representing St. Francis in the embrace of the Cru- 
cified Saviour (after a painting by Murillo). On each side 
are bas-relief panels : (R.) St. Francis blessing St. Louis, King 
of France, and St. Elizabeth, Queen of Hungary; (L.) St. 
Francis receiving the Stigmata of the Five Wounds. 

Behind the altar of St. Francis, entered through the east 
door, is the Chapel of Penance, set apart for hearing con- 
fessions. 



426 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Returning through St. Francis' Chapel to the north tran- 
sept, we approach the Altar of the Holy Ghost. This altar 
occupies an elevated position in the northern apse, above the 
stairs leading to the Grotto of Bethelehem. 

We reach next (northwest cor.) the Lady Chapel. 

In all the Franciscan churches the Virgin Mary is venerated under 
the title of her Immaculate Conception. St. Francis placed his whole 
Order under her protection, and tradition says that he established the 
custom in the Franciscan Order of saying a special Mass every Saturday 
in her honor. 

The two relief panels on the altar are: i. (L.) The Pre- 
sentation of the Child Mary at the Temple; 2. (R.) Her 
Coronation in Heaven. 

The S. archway brings us to the western main aisle, lead- 
ing to the front entrance of the church, and containing a 
double stairway leading up to the Altar of Calvary. This 
is an exact replica of the altar erected over the spot where 
the Cross was set on Mt. Calvary. The visitor ascends the 
right-hand stairs. 

The platform, upon which the Altar of Calvary is erected, corre- 
sponds in height with the elevation of the Jerusalem Altar above the 
level of the Basilica. Behind the altar is a group comprising the Cruci- 
fied Christ, the Virgin Mary and St. John (memorial gift of the Lenne 
family of Cologne). 

Beneath the altar is a small disc indicating the location of the 
Cross. To the R. is a strip of wood indicating the rent in the rock 
caused by the earthquake at the moment of Christ's death. 

Descending the L. stairwa}^ the visitor proceeds to the 
two small Oratories underneath the two stairways. The one 
on the N. is the Coronation Chapel. It contains a ♦Represen- 
tation in carved wood of Christ wearing the Crown of Thorns. 
On the S. is the Flagellation Chapel, containing a *Statue of 
Christ after His scourging. Both of these statues were exe- 
cuted by Tyrolese wood-carvers. 

Continuing southward, we reach (southwest cross) the 
Chapel of St. Anthony of Padua. Over the altar is a statue 
of St. Anthony embracing the Infant Jesus. On each side 
are bas-reliefs representing; i. (L.) St. Anthony the Wonder- 
worker, healing the Sick; 2. (R.) St. Anthony giving bread 
to the Poor ; John Earley, sculptor. Continuing through 
eastern arch, we reach the south Transept, terminating in 
an apse, containing the Altar of the Sacred Heart. Beneath 
this altar is the *Entrance to the Grottoes. 

While making the tour of the chapels, the visitor should not fail 
to notice the richly colored windows made by Meyers, of Munich, most 
of which portray Saints of the three Franciscan Orders. These win- 
dows, frciin R. to L., are as follows: 



THE FRANCISCAN MONAISTERY 427 

I. (Altar of Thabor) : God the Father, and Holy Ghost. 2. (Altar 
of the Holy Ghost): St. Rose of Viterbo, III Order; St. Agnes of 
Assisi, II Order; St. Elizabeth, Oueeii, III Order; St. Banaventure, 
Cardinal, O. F. M.; St. Louis, Bishop of Toulouse, O. F. M.; St. Ivo, 
Priest, III Order. 3. (Chapel of the Blessed Virgin, N. side): St. 
Isabella, Queen, III Order; St. Joachim; St. Anne; St. Ferdinand, 
King, III Order. 4. (Same, W. side): St. Peter Alcantara, O. F. M.; 
Bl. John Duns Seotus, O. F. M.; St. Peter Baptist, O. F. M.; St. 
Hyacintha, III Orler. 5. (Altar of Calvary): In centre, St. Francis 
of Assisi; on L., St. Louis, Crusader; on R., ;St. Helen, Empress. 6. 
(Chapel of St. Anthony, W. side): St. Mary Frances, III Order; St. 
Leonard, O. F. M.; St. Godfrey, O. F. M. ; St. Francis Solauus, 
O. F. M. 7. (Same, S. side): St. Coletta, II Order; St. Delphina. Ill 
Order; St. Elzear, III Order; St. Rich, III Order. 8. (Altar of the 
Sacred Heart): St. Veronica Juliani, II Order; St. Margaret Mary; 
St. Clara, II Order; St. Paschal, O. F. M.; St. John Capistran, O. F. M.; 
St. Bernardine, O. F. M. 

In the choir lofts are the following additional windows: Over 
Chapel of St. Joseph (N. side), L. to R. : i. St. Barbara; 2. St. Joseph; 
3. St. Thomas Aquinas, O. P.; St. Cecilia Patroness of Musicians. 
Over Chapel of St. Francis (S. side), L. to R.: ■5. Bl. Nicholas of 
Tavilei, Martyr, O. F. M.; 6. St. Charles Borromeo, Cardinal, III Order; 
7. St. Bede the Venerable, O. S. B.; 8. St. Didacus, O. F. M. 

The stairway leading down to the Grotto of Nazareth 
brings us to a reproduction of the home in which Jesus 
is supposed to have dwelt up to the time of His public min- 
istry. This house, according to tradition, consisted of a 
single room built against a natural cave, which served as an 
inner apartment. It was in the original of this grotto that 
the Angel of the Annunciation is supposed to have appeared 
I0 Mary. The stairs lead us to the outer chamber, known 
as the Chapel of the Angel. It contains two altars dedicated, 
respectively, (R.) to St. Joseph; (L.) to St. Anne. Beyond, 
in the grotto, is the Altar of the Annunciation. The altar- 
piece is a copy of Lucd Delia Robhia's famous work, "The 
Annunciation." 

From the Chapel of the Angel an entrance, facing the 
altar of St. Anne, admits us into a narrow, winding passage, 
reproducing a portion of the Catacombs of Rome — narrow 
sul)terranean galleries with tiers of niches in the wall to 
receive the dead. In the semi-darkness the visitor receives an 
impression of wandering endlessly. In point of fact, the 
whole passage extends only in an irregular semicircle from 
the S. to the N. apse of the church. At the midway point, 
directly below the main altar, we reach the Martyr's Crypt, 
modeled after the many subterranean chapels still to be seen 
at Roine. It contains the remains of St. Benignus (a Roman 
martyr, formerly buried in the Catacombs), which are now 
enclosed in the wax effigy here displayed. In the niche is a 
semi-circular mural picture of the Saviour, the painted margins 
of which are adorned by a series of 12 religious symbols, 



428 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

beginning with the Phoenix, emblem of the Resurrection and 
ending with the Lamb, symbol of Christ, standing on a rock 
from which flow four fountains, symbolic of the four Gospels. 

Facing this crypt is a short passage leading east to the 
Purgalory Chapel. On all sides are syml)ols of death: 
Black draperies, funeral candelabra, and skulls on the capitals 
of ihc pilasters. On the N. wall is a painting showing the 
lifeless body of Christ, "The First Begotten of the Dead" 
(Rev. i, 5). Opposite, on the S. wall, is a vision of the 
prophet Ezekiel, to whom the Lord showed a valley full 
of l3ones, saying: "Prophesy concerning these dry bones, and 
say to them : *Ye dry bones, hear ye the word of the Lord* " 
{Ecck. 2)7, i)- The pictures behind the altar represent (L.) 
Death Appearing from behind a Curtain ; (R.) The Angel of 
God revealing Eternal Life. On opposite sides of the en- 
trance are panels showing: i. Tobias burying the Dead; 2. 
Christ Raising Lazarus. 

A doorway behind the Altar leads to an extension of ihe 
Catacombs. Note in first room paintings on stairways repre- 
senting Martyrs consigned to beasts in the Arena. Beyond 
are two typical chapels of the larger class called Cnhicula, 
wiilh decorations copied from existing frescoes found in the 
true Catacombs. The Chapel on L. is dedicated to St. Cecilia, 
and contains a copy of the well known statue by Madcrno. 
On R. is Chapel of St. Sebastian, containing copy of statue 
by Bernini, m Church of St. Sebastian on A.ppian Way, Rome. 

Returning to the Martyr's Crypt, and continuing through a 
(passage to the R., through the passage of the Catacombs, we 
reach the Grotto of Bethlehem, a faithful copy of the grotto 
as it exists to-day in Bethlehem. The two stairways leading 
upward from the crypt are copies of the Latin and Greek 
stairways in the Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem. Fn the 
niche, between these stairways, is a reproduction of the .Mtar 
of the Nativity. To the R. is the Place of the Manger, a 
recess in the rock containing the Altar of the Wise Men, 
above which is a painting, "The Adoration of the Magi." 

Having completed the tour of the Catacombs, the \isilor 
here ascends the stairs which emit him beneath the Holy Ghost 
Altar in the N. Apse. 

The Monastery of Mount St. Sepulchre, immediaiely 
E. of the church^ and separated from it by a long corridor 
(into which visitors are admitted), consists of^ a large_ rec- 
tangular structure three stories in height, with an inner 
court-yard laid out as a garden, in the centre of which is 
an ample cistern for the storage of rain-w^ater collected from 



THE FRANCISCAN MONASTERY 429 

the roof. This court-yard is surrounded on the first floor by 
the traditional Cloister ambulatory, below which, in the base- 
ment story, is a similar corridor with this difference that it is 
enclosed and lighted by windows. Women are never admitted 
to the Monastery proper. Male visitors, properly introduced, 
will sometimes be allowed the privilege of visiting the cloister. 

In the spacious grounds surrounding the Monastery are 
several points of interest. In the Gethsemene Valley to the 
S. of the Monastery and reached by a stairway, are a number 
of shrines. They include : i. The Grotto of Agony, a faithful 
copy of the Grotto in the Garden of Gethsemene; 2. The 
Tomb of the Blessed Virgin, also copied from the shrine in 
the Garden of Gethsemene; 3. The Chapel of St. Anne; 4. The 
Home of the Holy Family in Egypt, a reproduction of the 
shrine which marks the traditional spot of the sojourn of the 
Holy Family during Herod's persecution; 5. The Grotto of 
Lourdes, an accurate facsimile of the world-famous shrine 
at Lourdes, in the south of France. The Brookland Grotto 
was dedicated August 15th, 1913, on which occasion the Right 
Rev. Charles W. Courrier, Bishop of Matanzas, Cuba, 
officiated. 

To the northeast of the Monastery, in a lonely grove 
surrounded by pine and cedar trees, is a little chapel modeled 
after the retreat on Mount Alverna, Umbria, where St. Francis 
dwelt in solitude. This chapel, intended for the use of the 
Friars only, contains a statue of the saint wrapt in meditation, 
and surrounded by his "little brothers and sisters, the birds." 

The Cemetery lies on the slope of the hill, facing the east, 
and it dotted over with cedars, willows and white rose bushes. 
Since its establishment, eighteen years ago (1904), eighteen of 
the Friars have here been laid to rest. Both these are within 
the cloistered grounds. 

The Monastery also houses the College of the Holy Land, 
the purpose of which is the education of young men as mis- 
sionaries to the Holy Land, and the special preparation of 
lectors and professors for the members of the Order of the 
different provinces in the United States. The undertaking 
was sanctioned by the Holy See, November 23d, 1897. The 
students pursue courses in the various departments of the 
Catholic University (p. 416). 



430 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

II. Georgia Avenue to Takoma Park 

Georgia Avenue begins at Florida Avenue as a northern 
continuation of 7th St., but verges slightly westward until 
from Brightwood onward it lies closely parallel to 13th St. 
It is one of the main suburban highways affording the shortest 
route to the Soldiers' Home, Rock Creek Cemetery and 
Walter Reed Hospital, and continuing as one of the principal 
automobile roads through Montgomery Co., Md. 

On E. side of Georgia Ave., extending from U St. to 
W St., is the American League Baseball Park. Two blocks 
N. Howard PI. leads east (one block) to Howard University. 

Hoivard Universiiy (PI. Ill — C4), situated directly E. 
of Garfield Hospital, occupies a site of twenty acres, lying 
between 6th St. on the W., and the New Reservoir on the E. 
Immediately adjoining on the S. are the new Freedmans 
Hospital grounds and buildings (leased by the University 
from the Govemment). 

Reached by 9th St. trollej' (marked "Soldiers' Home," "Bright- 
wood" or "Takoma Park") to Howard place. 

Howard University was chartered March 2d, 1867, for the edu- 
cation of the young "without regard to sex or color." In point of 
fact it has included among its students American Indians, Chinese, 
Japanese and Europeans of several nationalities; but it is today at- 
tended almost exclusively by the colored race. Its early Presidents 
included: i. Rev. Byron Sunderland (p. 134); 2. General O. O. Howard, 
after whom the institution was named; 3. Rev. Williarn W. Patton; 
4. Rev. Jeremiah B. Rankin. In addition to the Academic Department 
the University includes, a School of Theology, a School of Law 
(founded 1867), and a School of Medicine (founded 1868). 

Maj.-Gen. O. O. Howard (1830-1909) entered the Civil War in 
May, 1 86 1, as Colonel of the 3d Maine Volunteers, and as senior 
Colonel led his brigade at the Battle of Bull Run. His gallantry 
earned him the rank of Brig.-General, and as such he served until, 
at Fair Oaks, June, 1862, he received wounds which cost him an arm. 
After the war he became head of the Freedmen's Bureau, and his 
splendid service on behalf of the! newly made citizens was publicly 
recognized by the founding of this University named in his honor. 

The University buildings are all on the main campus, 
excepting the Law School building (p. 140) which faces 
Judiciary Square. On R. of Howard Place entrance is the 
attractive Rankin Memorial Chapel, erected in memory of 
Andrew E. Rankin, brother of the late President. It is a 
rather pleasing example of English Gothic, the exterior being 
of traprock. The main auditorium, with its heavy oak beams, 
is suggestive of old English Halls. Note especially the 
three-paneled memorial window at the N. -end, depicting: 
In centre, the Landing of the Pilgrims; on L. and R. the 



GEORGIA AVENUE 43i 

House at Scrooby, and the City of Leyden. The attractive 
University Library is opposite the chapel, on L, of entrance. 
It was founded in 1910 by Andrew Carnegie. 

The nucleus of the library was started in 1867 by the gift of a 
Webster's Dictionary. In 1874, five-hundred volumes were acquired 
from Lewis Tappan, to be kept permanantly separate as the Tappan 
Anti-slavery Library. There are now approximately 30,000 volumes 
and 22,000 pamphlets. The President's ofhc© is on the second floor. 

The main building, facing the campus, immediately E. of 
chapel, is a four-story structure measuring 184 x 95 ft. It 
contains the offices of Secretary and Treasurer, recitation 
halls, lecture rooms, an assembly hall and museum. 

At the N. end of the campus is Clark Hall, the young 
men's dormitory, named after David Clark of Hartford, who 
donated $25,000 early in the University's history. Miner 
Hall, the young women's dormitory, stands on the E. side 
of the campus, with its rear windows overlooking Reservoir 
Lake. The New Science Hall (1911) is S. of the chapel. 

Opposite Howard University, and three short blocks due 
\\. stands the Garfield Memorial Hospital, incorporated May 
i8th, 1822. Capacity, 250 beds. 

In the main entrance hall are tablets and other memorials of ben** 
factors, including a marble bust of Henry A. Willard. The Victoria 
Memorial Room is in honor of the Queen's Jubilee. Upon request, 
visitors will be conduicted to the sun-imrlor, from) wlhich a splendid view 
may be had of the city. Note in the elevator a tablet acknowledging it 
to be the gift of the comedian, Sol Smith Russell. The Willard Me- 
morial, the latest of the hospital buildings,, facing nth St., was erected 
in 1912. Appleton P. Clark, Jr., architect. 

Directly W. of the Garneld Hospital is the *New Central 
High School (PI. Ill — 'C3), erected in 1916 and formally dedi- 
cated February 15th, 1917. It occupies two entire city blocks, 
with its main fagade on Clifton St. The visitor, coming 
from the S., receives a first impression of a series of spacious 
terraces and stairways leading upward to a huge four-story 
structure of dark red brick with limestone trim, with a central 
pavilion on the S. flanked by one-story ranges to E. and W. 
This southern side overlooks the sweeping curve of a Stadium, 
with a seating capacity of 6000. Both S. and N. facades are 
of Indiana limestone. The latter, forming the main entrance, 
is on the Roman Doric order, with three arched entrances 
flanked by four pairs of Doric columns. Above the cornice 
is a So^ft. bas-relief frieze in three panels. Architect, William 
B. Ittner; sculptor, George Julian Zolnay. 

This frieze is emblematic of the distinctive features of 
the New High School, which combines the Academic, Busi- 
ness and Manual Training Departments. Taken from L. 



432 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

to R., the three panels and the respective significance of the 
successive figures portrayed are as follows: 

East Panel. Business Training: i. Ship Building (holding ham- 
mer and sail-boat); 2. Accounting and Book-keeping, (with ledger); 
3. Connnercial Geography (with globe and compasses) ; 4- Commerce 
(with Mercury's caduceiis); 5 and 6. Barter and Sale (holding re- 
spectively merchandise and account book). 

Central Panel. Academic Training: i. and 2. Chemistry (holding 
retort); 3. Mathematics (with sextant); 4- Physical Culture (youth 
with dumb-bells) ; =;. Art (female hgure with palette) ; 6. Music (with 
lyre) ; 7. History (this figure is a full-length portrait of Emeryi Wilson. 
Principal of the High School); 8. Biology (with microscope); 9. Phil- 
osophy (bust of Socrates). 

I'Vcst Panel. Manual Training: i. Domestic Science (woman with 
a rolling-pin); 2. and 3. Dressmaking; 4. and 5. Mechanical Drawing 
(4. is a portrait of Snowden Ashford, municipal architect; 5. Portrait of 
William B. Ittner, architect of the school) ; 6. the Crafts (symbolized 
as Pottery holding an urn); 7. Mechanics (holding a cogged wheel; 
portrait of William Dall, the contractor). 

History. Although for several years previous to 1876 the Wash- 
ington public schools had offered a certain amount of work beyond the 
8th grade, the first step toward a High School was made by the open- 
ing of the two "Advanced Grammar Schools," one for girls in Septem- 
ber, '1 876, the other for boys (in the Seaton School; see p. 362) in 
December, 1877. These schools began with a one-year course, shortly 
increased to two years, and again tO' three years, in 1882, when they 
consolidated in the Washington High School, situated at O and 7th 
Sts. I'rom an enrollment of 412 students, the school increased in 
seven years to more than one thousand. In September, 1890, the 
Eastern, Western, and Business High Schools were farmed. The orig- 
inal school now took the najne of Central High School, and the course 
was increased to four years. A Manual Training course was added, and 
resulted, in 1901, in the establishment of the McKinley Manual Training 
School. In the new school both manual and business training have 
been re-introduced into the curriculum. 

Visitors may enter the building freely. In the centre, 
rising through two stories, is the Auditorium, with seating 
capacity of about 1800. The 47 lecture rooms will care for 
2500 pupils (a number nearly reached already). The Manual 
Training Department includes print shops and wood-working. 
Among other special features are the spacious iswimming pool, 
the physics laboratory, the separate gymnasiums for boys and 
girls, the Domestic Science room and the School iBank, de- 
signed to inculcate the habit of thrift. 

Returning to Georgia Ave. and continuing N. about a 
mile, we reach the suburban district of Petworth. Here a 
branch trolley line turns E. on Upshur St, to the main en- 
trance of the Soldiers' Home, and passes just S. of Grant 
Circle, at intersection of New Hampshire and Illinois Aves. 

The Soldiers' Home (PI. Ill— B4) is situated on one 
of the hiuhest elevations north of the citv, the southern bound- 



THE SOLDIERS' HOME 433 

ary of its extensive grounds lying about 2^ miles distant from 
the Capitol, measured along N. Capitol St., which, if extended, 
would intersect the grounds almost midway. The Home may 
be reached most directly by 9th St. Line, north from Penn- 
sylvania Ave. Cars marked "Soldiers' Home" turn E. on 
Upshur Ave. (6 squares) to the N.W. entrance or "Eagle 
Gate." The N. Capitol St. Line also passes the Home at the 
S.E. corner. The tourist will find it convenient to go or return 
by the latter line, including in the same trip the Catholic 
University (p. 416), and the Franciscan Monastery (p. 423)- 
Open to visitors all day, including holidays. 

History. The Soldiers' Home dates officially from March 3d, 1851, 
I when Congress passed an Act "to found a military asylum for the 
relief and support of invalid and disabled soldiers of the Army of 
the United States." The scheme for such an institution, however, was 
first broached in 1829; and in 1840 it was strongly urged by General 
(then Captain) Anderson, — a member of whose family has published 
a voluminous monograph to prove that he was the real founder of the 
Soldiers' Home. In February, 1848, General Scott transmitted to the 
Secretary of War a draft of $100,000, being part of the tribute levied 
by him on the City of Mexico for the benefit of the Army, and 
expressed a hope that this sum might be allowed to go toward the 
establishment of an Army Asylum. 

In pursuance of the above-mentioned Act of Congress, the Home 
was established in 1851-52, the original purchase of ground amounting 
to 256 acres. The subsequent acquisitions were small with the excep- 
tion of the estate known as Harewcod (191 acres), owned formerly by 
the Rev. Mr. Breckenridge, pastor of the First Presbyterian Church 
(p. 136), and later by W. W. CorcoTan, frdm whom it was acquired in 
1872. The entire holdings now amount to more than 500 acres. They 
form an irregular pentagon, bounded on the E. and S. E. by Michigan 
Ave., and on the E. and N.E. by Harewood Road, on the N.W. by 
Rock Creek Church Road and on the W. by Park Place. 

The Home at first received both volunteer and regular soldiers, but 
is now restricted to enlisted men of the regular army. Qualiiications : 
Soldiers of twenty years standing, and men, whether pensioners or not, 
who have been disabled by wounds or disease in service or in lire of 
duty. Such men are admitted to the Home or, if they prefer to reside 
outside, may receive an allowance from the fund. They must have 
been honorably discharged; hence they are all civilians. Each man, 
however, is supplied with a uniform, and is permitted such insignia 
of his rank (stripes, service chevrons, etc.) as he wore in service. The 
inmates are organized in squads and companies, and all are subject to 
the "Rules and Articles of War." 

Approximately 1000 men reside at the Home, ranging in age from 
24 to 90. The majority draw pensions which the law permits to be 
paid in whole or in part to relatives. Otherwise the pension money 
is drawn by the Treasurer of the Home, the pensioners drawing a 
portion only and receiving the remainder when they leave. 

The annual income of the Home approximates $250,000, derived from 
the following sources: i. Tax of 12^ cents a month on each enlisted 
man of the army; 2. Dues to deserters; 3. Fines; 4. Sale of unclaimed 
effects of dead soldiers; 5. Interest on the surplus fund (approximately 
four million dollars, drawing 3% interest from the United States). 



434 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

The visitor will find himself quite free, not only to wan- 
der at random through the grounds, but to enter the buildings, 
and even inspect the dining-room, kitchen and sleeping apart- 
ments. Instead of resenting intrusion, the inmates take such 
pride in their Home that they seem to welcome inspection. 

The buildings constituting the Home are grouped around 
a quadrangle in the extreme northern section of the grounds. 
Entering the Eagle Gate the visitor passes first, on L., the 
Administration Building, a two-story, tiled-roof building, de- 
signed in bungalow style. Just beyond on S. side of drive, 
is the Anderson Cottage, a three-story, many gabled structure, 
/-Tfiamed after Gen. Robert Anderson, a hero of Ft. Sumter. 

This was thp original "Home," and in later years has served as 

the summer residence of several Presidents: Buchanan, 1856-60; 

Lincoln, 1861-64; Hayes, 1877-80; Arthur, 1882-84. President Gar- 
field expected to occupy it in 188 1. 

Directly E. stands the largest and most conspicuous of 
the group, the Scott Building, including the northern addition, 
the Sherman Building. It is a solid granite structure consisting 
of three stories and basement, with main f?jgade fronting S., 
surmounted by a lofty square castellated clock-tower (B. S. 
Anderson, architect; Gilbert Cameron, builder). Above en- 
trance doorway is inscribed, "A grateful country to her De- 
fenders." 

This principal edifice (forming an elongated letter H) 
comprises (S. to N.) : i. The original Scott Building; 
2. Middle wing, the Scott Annex ; 3. Sherman Building. 

The Annex contains the Soldiers' Home Library, dating back 
almost as far as the Home itself. It occupied a single room in the 
Scott Building until 1877. It was then moved into a Japanese building 
purchased from the Centennial Exposition Commission for $39,000. It 
remained in this picturesque structure until 191 1, when it was removed 
to its present quarters. The Library is open from 7.30 A. M. to 8.30 
P. M. Its resources are approximately 13,000 volumes, 40% fiction. 
Open to the public for reference; circulating privileges limited to 
members and employees. 

Continuing west, between the Scott Building and the lofty 
water-tower, we pass the Sheridan Building, a three-story dor- 
mitory with mansard roof and surrounding balconies, named 
in honor of Gen. Philip H. Sheridan, who was President of 
the Board of Commissioners when the building was erected 
(1883). Directly N. is the Grant Building, architecturally the 
finest structure in the Home. It is a three-story building, 
faced throughout with white marble ; at the main entrance 
(facing S.) are six monolithic marble columns. The con- 
spicuous bronze lanterns flanking the entrance were cast by 
the /. L. Matt Iron Works, N. Y. This building contains 



THE SOLDIERS' HOME 435 

the dining-rooms and kitchens of the Home. Excepting at 
meal time, visitors may freely inspect the rooms and admire 
the delightful cleanliness of them. 

On the E. side of the quadrangle, directly opposite the 
Sheridan Building, is Stanley Hall, the Playhouse of the 
Home, containing on main floor a spacious stage and audito- 
rium (note the artistic woodwork supporting ceiling) ; also 
hall in basement containing interesting collection of portraits, 
etc., crayons, pen-drawings and photographs, relating mainly 
to the Civil War. 

The red brick building to S.E. is the Guard House (no 
admittance). S.VV., facing the Scott Building, is another dor- 
mitory, the King Building, named after Surgeon B, King, for 
thirteen years the attending surgeon ; also Secretary and Treas- 
urer of the Home. 

To the south the grounds widen out in spacious, undulating 
meadows, occupied by tennis courts and golf links. 

The *Scott Monument stands on a knoll, approximately 
one-third mile S. of Scott Building, on the crest of a bluff 
commanding one of the best views of the city. It consists of 
a full-length standing figure in bronze, heroic size, designed 
by Laiinl Thompson (1873), and cast by B. Wood & Co., 
Phil. 

West of the Sco;t Monument a narrow, vmdulating brick path 
(reached behind the houses of resident officials) leads S. to. The Lake, 
a series of artificial pools containing a small collection of aquatic birds, 
including black swans, Mandarin Ducks, Mallards, etc. To the S.W. 
are the barns and pastures of a herd of thoroughbred cattle, reputed to 
contain some of the best stock in the middle Atlantic section. The 
inmates of the Home pride themselves on the immaculate cleanliness 
of the barns. 

Directly E. -of the Soldiers' Home grounds is a small 
National Cemetery containing the Mausoleum of Gen. John 
A. Logan. The main entrance is through a Memorial Gate- 
way at the N. W. cor., facing the entrance to Rock Creek 
Cemetery, and inscribed with the names: i. Scott; 2. Wash- 
ington ; 3. Jackson ; 4. Grant ; 5. Taylor ; 6. Greene ; 7. Brown ; 
8. Meade. This entrance, however, is usually closed, and 
the visitor must walk S. on Harewood Road to the Western 
Gate near the Superintendent's lodge. A few feet N. of 
entrance is the Logan Mausoleum, built in the form of a 
simple English Gothic chapel of gray granite. Through the 
iron screen in the ^doorway can be seen the memorial East 
window in stained-glass, bearing the Logan coat-of-iarms. 

About fi'fty yards E. is a memorial pavilion, supported on 
ten Grecian columns, which are severallv inscribed as fol- 
low: I. Lytle; 2. Stevens; 3. Berry; 4. Richards; 5. Kirbv, 
6. Cushing; 7. Russell; 8. Baker; 9. Kearney; 10. Wadsworth, 



436 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

*Rock Creek Cemetery (PI. Ill— A4) and old St. 
Paul's Church, Rock Creek Parish, constituting the oldest 
church and burying ground within the District limits, are 
situated directly N. of the Soldiers' Home, with the main 
entrance diagonally opposite the northern gateway of the 
Home grounds. Although the cemetery was not incorporated 
until 1872, a portion of the ground adjoining the church has 
been used for interments since 1719, in which year Col. John 
Bradford donated a '"Glebe" of 100 acres, to be held in per- 
petuity for church purposes. 

On R, of entrance gate just beyond the dignified granite 
lodge in English Gothic, is a Peace Cross erected to the mem- 
ory of John Bradford, the donor "of the Glebe (sculptured by 
/. and R. Lamb, N. Y., from designs by W. and G. Ardsley). 
The left hand driveway, running slightly N. W., leads to the 
site of the quaint old Rock . Creek Church, almost wholV 
destroyed by fire in 1921 (now in course of restoration), it 
was a plain square structure of red brick, with long narrow 
windows, and a square open tower above front entrance. As 
recorded on a white marble tablet, inserted on \V. Side, the 
original church structure was erected in 17 19; rebuilt in 1775 
and remodeled in its modern form in 1864. The interior was 
austerely simple, its square, box-like effect being relieved only 
by the recesses on the E. containing the central altar. Baptistry 
and organ-pipes. There were six memorial windows, by i'\ X. 
Zettler, of Munich. 

The oldest graves are those immediately surrounding the 
church. They are, however, of purely local interest. On the 
driveway running northward from N. W. cor. of church, are 
several handsome vaults, the first reached being that of Mont- 
gomery Blair, 1813-83, and of his father, Francis Preston Blair, 
1701-1876, for many years the distinguished editor of the 
official administration organ, The Globe. Following this same' 
road northward, the visitor presently comes to a small oval 
pool, dignified 'by the name of 'The Lake." On, the higher 
ground to the W. is the monument to Levi Ziegler Leiter, an 
elaborately carved sarcophagus of Italian marble, with delicate 
bas-reliefs (protected from the weather by being completely 
enlosed in glass.) 

The Lake is a convenient landmark for the tourist who, 
without its help, would find the local topography sadly con- 
fusing. Just beyond the Lake, on R., (S. W. cor. of section 
C), are a series of nearly a score of very old tombstones re- 
moved from former burying-lots, and laid flat upon the turf. 
The first three, directly in the corner of the lot. mark the 



ROCK CREEK CE^IETERY 437 

graves of David Burnes (p. xxvii), one of the four original 
proprietors of the city territory, his wife, Anne, and his son, 
John. 

It was generally assumed that the parents of Marcia Burnes. wife 
of John P Van Ness, were interred in her lot adjoining the /old Church 
of the Ascension, on H St., and later transferred, together ^vith mauso- 
leum, to Oak Hill Cemetery (p. 479). In comparatively recent years the 
opening up of new streets in the N. E. section of th& city, brought to 
public attention the fact that old Davy Burnes, his wife and young 
son, had all been interred in a plot assigned by him to an intimate 
friend, whose holdings covered many acres of the N. E Section. The 
city improvements compelled the removal of the remains. The old 
tombstones are well preserved. They now lie under two ancient Tulip 
trees and can still be read. David Burnes- lies between his son (on W.), 
and his wife (on E.). His stone bears the inscription: "David Burnes, 
Esq., of the city of Washington, died th« 8th day of May, 1800, aged 
60 years, 2 months and 24 days." 

. South of the Burnes graves, and E. of the Lake, is the 
♦Kaufmann Memorial, consisting of a granite exedra, seated 
on which is a haunting, life-size figure in bronze, symbolizing 
Memory. !n the curve above the seat of the exedra are seven 
bronze panels in low-relief, representing, with adaptations, 
Shakespeare's Seven Ages of Man. Williani Ordway Part- 
ridge, sculptor). 

Diagonally E. of the Kaufmann Memorial is the severely 
plain granite sarcophagus of William Windom (1827-91), 
former Secretary of the Treasury. S. W. of Windom stands 
the monument of Hugh McCullogh, twice Secretary of the 
Treasury (1865-69 and 1884). 

Somewhat N. of the Windom monument and almost due 
E. of Kaufmann lot is the memorial to Charles Mather Ffoulke, 
a semi-circular enclosure built of rough-hewn granite, 
with bronze tablet on outer side, while within is a draped 
female figure of bronze, standing beside an open tomb, and 
inscribed "Rabboni!" ((S^ufzon Borglum, sculptor). Further 
E. is the monument to Elisha Francis Riggs (1851-1910), for- 
mer partner of W. W. Corcoran. 

Turning N. on second path E. of Lake we pass, on L., 
the mausoleum of Alexander R. Shepherd, the "Father of 
modern Washington" (p. xxxiv). It is a Greek temple, on the 
Doric order, built of granite, with four columns on main 
fagade. 

If the visitor now goes E. to next parallel path and turns 
S., towards the church, he will pass on L. a circular grove of 
tall evergreens, surrounding Augustus Samt-Gaudens' world- 
famous ^.Memorial to Mrs. Henry Adams, consisting of a 
mysterious veiled female figure in bronze, most commonly 



438 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

called "Peace of God," although what the artist meant to 
symbolize is not dertnitely known. 

Beside the church is the monument to Matthew G. Emery 
(1818-1901). the last Mayor of Washington. 

*Fort Stevens, the only one of the city's chain of fortifi- 
cations during the Civil War that was called into action, is 
situated on the L. of Georgia Ave. (formerly 7th St. Pike), 
in the old village of Brightwood, about a mile and a half 
beyond the Soldiers' Home (p. 432). Take 9th St. car marked 
either "Brightwood" or "Takoma Park." 

Brightwood in ante bellum days was the summer home 
of the Blairs, the Lees, the Blagdons and other prominent 
Washington families ; also of Alexander R. Shepherd, the 
"father of greater Washington." 

'Leaving the car at Madison St., just S. of the village cen- 
tre, the visitor sees on his R. an old-fashioned country resi- 
dence, standing on an eminence in the centre of spacious 
grounds. This is Emery Place, once the country home of 
Alatthew Gault Emery, the last Mayor of Washington. It 
was subsequently acquired by William Van Zandt Cox 
(nephew of Sunset Cox) who, prior to 1900, purchased the 
ground occupied by Fort Stevens, in order to preserve and 
eventually make it a Government reservation. During the 
Civil War, Emery Place was used as a signal station, and 
also as headquarters of Generals D. W. Couch and F. A. 
Walker. 

A few hundred feet N., on W. side of Georgia Ave., at 
corner of Rock Creek Ford Road, is a hotel occupying the 
site of the headquarters of General McCook during Early's 
raid. On W. side of road, just iS. of a small white wooden 
church, is a vacant lot, the site of the Barracks and Officers' \ 
quarters used by Union troops, and also as hospital during 
the battle of July 12th. 1864. ! 

Just beyond, on L., are the public school house and | 
(crowning a high embankment twenty feet above street level") j 
the Emery Memorial Church. The main portion of Fort | 
Stevens is in the rear of this church, and is reached through | 
the school-yard, on N. side of school, then N. through lane, j 
and W., past a row of two-story wooden dwellings. The \ 
church occupies the S.E. extension of the fort, and the ) 
curving terrace on the Ave. side is part of the old Fort 
bastion. [ 

Although these historic ruins have been sadly neglected, : 
it is even now easy to trace a large part of the perimeter, j- 
with the help of a faded diagram framed on the outer wall t 



PORT STEVENS 439 

of the westernmost house in the above-mentioned ro^y. Mid- 
way on the northern bastion, reinforced at this point with 
concrete, is the Lincoln Bozvlder, recently marked by the erec- 
tion of a bronze tablet. The place was identified by General 
Wriirht as the spot where President Lincoln stood, exposed to 
the fire of the enemy, during the battle of Fort Stevens, July 
1 2th, 1864. 

History. Fort Stevens was built soon after the first battle of 
Bull Run, "chiefly by General D. N. Couch's brigade; and because two 
out of its four regiments were the 7th and loth Massachusetts, it was 
originally called Fort Massachusetts. It later received its present name 
in honor of Brig.-General Isaac Ingalls Stevens of Massachusetts, 
killed at Chantilly, Va., September ist, 1862. 

This fort was regarded as the key to the defenses of Washington. 
It had an armament of nineteen guns and was oflFicially described as 
"a powerful and satisfactory work." It had a perimeter of 1125 ft., 
and was 321 ft. above mean tide. Within the enclosure were two 
magazines, a bomb-proof and block house. 

Durin.^ the battle President Lincoln stood by the side of General 
Wright on the parade, exposed to sharp shooters. General Wright 
maintained that, as Commander of the Fort, he was responsible for the 
President's safety, and must insist that he should retire behind shelter, 
but Lincoln claimed his rights as Commander-in-Chief. This was the 
only battle in which any President of the United States was ever 
present and exposed to fire. General J. C. Breckenridge, the candi- 
date for President who had received the votes of the seceding states, 
was also a spectator of this battle, expecting to enter the Capital with 
the Army of North Virginia. The fight had lasted only a few minutes 
when the stream of bleeding and mangled soldiers began to come to 
the rear. The little brigadei of Union troops numbered only 1,000 
men when it went into action, of whom 250 were lost. The Com- 
manding officer of every regiment in the brigade was either killed or 
wounded. 

About one thousand feet N., at the N. W. cor. of Georgia 
Ave. and Piney Branch Road, stands a comfortable wooden 
residence built and occupied by a veteran of the Fort Stevens 
battle, on the site of the old Toll-Gate House, occupied by 
General Early's picket line, and marking the nearest ap- 
proach of the Confederates to Washington. 

A few hundred feet N., on E. side of Georgia Ave., is 
the small Battle-Field Cemetery in which are buried forty 
of the fifty- four soldiers who fell in the battle of Fort 
Stevens. The entrance is flanked by two old cannon mounted 
on brick piers. On R. of entrance is a small stone lodge on 
the wall of which is a bronze tablet inscribed with Lincoln's 
Gettysburg Address. 

On R. of entrance, facing the highway, are four monuments com- 
memorating the fallen soldiers of the four regiments that took part in 
the battle; (S. to N.) : i. Memorial erected by the State of New York 
in honor of the 2Sth N. Y. Volunteer Cavalry; 2. Memorial in honor 
of "98th Regt. P. V. ist Brig. 2d Div. 5th Corps"; 3. "To the gallant 



440 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

sons of Onondaga Co., N. Y. — i22d N. Y. V."; 4. The Ohio Memorial 
to "Co. K 150th O. N. G. I." The names of the dead are in each 
instance inscribed upon the side or rear faces of the stones. 

I'he forty graves form a circle in the centre of the 
cemetery plot, marked by small marble head-stones. 

North, on W. side of Georgia Ave., opposite Butternut 
St., is the entrance to the grounds of the Walter Reed Army 
General Hospital, named in honor of Dr. Walter Reed, 1851- 
1902, Surgeon (Major), U. S. A., who risked his life in 
demonstrating that the yellow-fever germs were communi- 
cated to man through the medium of mosquitoes. The group 
of buildings within this Government reservation comprise 
the hospital, the residences of the medical officers and dor- 
mitories of the nurses. 

About 100 ft. from the entrance stood the Sharpsliooter's Tree, u-^ed 
as a signal station by the Confederate army; and also occupied hy their 
sharpshooters during the attack on Fort Stevens. In its last days thi^ 
old tree was a gaunt wreck, with all its limbs reduced to stumps, and 
its trunk (circumference approximately 18 ft.) completely overgrown 
with vines. It was blown down Dec. 9, 1919. 

The Takoma Park trolley line here turns E. on Butternut 
St. three blocks, then one block N. to its terminal at Cedar 
St. Takoma Park is one of the new and rapidly developing 
suburbs of Washington, and the new western portion i? 
crowded with attractive bungalows. 

The one historical interest, however, is the Second Northeast 
Boundary Stone of the District, easily reached as follows: Walk E. 
on Cedar St. under the bridge of the Baltimore and Ohio branch road; 
then where the streets fork keep to the right on Carroll St. to Maple 
St. The Boundary Stone is on the W. side of Maple St., 150 ft. N. of 
Carroll St., close beside the end post of the fence enclosing the corner 
lot. 

III. Connecticut Avenue from Rock Creek Bridge 
to Chevy Chase 

The extension of Connecticut Ave., W. of Rock Creek 
Bridge, leads through some of the most fashionable suburban 
residential sections, to Chevy Chase Circle, on the District 
borderline — a distance of approximately 3^^ mi. 

Just N. of Calvert St., where the electric car line rejoins 
Connecticut Ave., on W. side, is IVoodley Park (PI. Ill — C2), 
a high class residential section which preserves the memory of 
the home of Philip Barton Key, uncle of the poet Francis 
Scott Key. 

The elder Key was brother-in-law of Gen. Uriah Forrest, who with ' 
TNIaj. Benjamin Stoddert (once Secretary of the Navy) jointly ownca , 
the large tract of land N. of Georgetown and W. of Rock Creek, knowu 
as Rosedale (see p. 453). Woodley was part of the Rosedale estate. 



CONNECTICUT AVENUE EXTENDED 441 

Facing on Woodley Road, S. side, is the Wardman Park 
Hotel. (PL III-JC2— No. 71), one of the largest and most 
recent of Washington's residential hotels. It numbers among 
its guests [1922] three members of the Cabinet: Albert B. 
Fall, Sec. of the Interior; Henry C. Wallace, Sec. of Agri- 
culture; and Harry M. Daugherty, Atty. Gen.; three Senators 
and 15 Representatives. Plere also are the offices of two 
Legations, Portugal and Salvador, 

At Jewett St., just N. of Woodley Park, E. side, is the 
western entrance to the National Zoological Park (PI. HI — 
C2), (p. 444). Continuing N. to the point where Klingle 
Road crosses the Ave., we pass on L., Cleveland Park, another 
residential section, which takes its name from the fact that 
former President Cleveland had his summer home here at 
"Red Toip." Adjacent to Cleveland Park was "Twin Oaks," 
the former summer home of Gardiner G. Hubbard, late presi- 
dent of the National Geographical Slociety. 

Half a mile N., on Pierce Mill Road, we reach the Bureau 
of Standards (PI. HI — ^Bi — No. 14). • This is a Bureau of 
the Department of Commerce, charged with the custody of 
the standards adopted or recognized by the Government, and 
employed to verify those used in scientific investigations, manu- 
facturing, commerce, and in educational institutions. Visitors 
interested in technical or scientific research are welcome. 

Hours: 10 a. m. to 2:30 p. m. on week days; in summer 
time the Bureau closes on Saturdays at i p. m. 

The functions of the Bureau of Standards include not only the 
custody and comparison of standards, both of measure and of quality, 
but also the construction, when necessary, of standards, their multiples 
and subdivisions; the testing and calibration of standard measuring 
apparatus; the determination of physical constants and properties of 
materials, when such data are important to scientific or manufacturing 
interestsi:_ and other investigations as authorized by Congress. _ The 
Bureau is permitted to charge a reasonable fee for all comparisons, 
tests or investigations, except those performed for the U. S. Govern- 
ment or for State Governments. 

The Library of the Bureau, dating from 1901, is devoted entirely 
to physics, technology, chemistry and mathematics. Open 9 a. m. to 
4 p. m. daily, except Sundays and holidays. Visitors are welcome to 
consult books not available in the general libraries of the District. 

Directly E. of the Bureau of Standards, on opposite side 
of Connectiicut Ave., is the Academy of the Holy Cross, a 
Catholic institution for young women, under the auspices of 
the Sisters of the Holy Crtoiss. Further E.. on Upton St., 
stands the Geophysical Laboratory of the Carnegie Institu- 
tion (PI. Ill — ^62), devoted to the investigation of questions 
relating to the formation of rocks and minerals under the 
abnormal pressures and temperatures existing in the interior bf 
the earth. Still further N. we pass, on L., suburb formerly 



Al 



442 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

known as Tenallytown (later Tenleytown). On its upper 
border is the closely built-up modern section of Reno. Half 
a mile beyond we reach Chevy Chase Circle (PI, III— Ai). 
situated on the boundary line, apprioximately three miles S. W. 
from the comer of the District. Following Belt Road a few- 
rods S. W. from the Circle we reach (in turf of Golf Course 
on R. side of road) the TJikd Northwest Boundary Stone, 
dedicated by the D. A. R. Oct. 14, 191 5. Belt Road was so 
named in honor of Col. Joseph Belt, original patentee of Chev}- 
Chase, to whom the Belt Boulder was erected by the Society 
of Colonial Wars in 191 1, in the grounds of All Saints' Epis- 
copal Church, Chevy Chase Circle. The inscription reads : 

"Colonel Joseph Belt (1680-1761), Maryland. Patentee of Chev 
Chase. Trustee of first l"'ree Schools in Maryland. One of .the 
founders of Rock Creek Parish. Member of the House of Burgesses. , 
Colonel of Prince George's County Militia during the I'rench and I 
Indian War." | 

In the immediate neighborhood of Chevy Chase are 1 
numerous golf courses, including those of the Columbia 
Country Club, the Chevy Chase Club and the Kirkside Golf \ 
Club (see p. 28). j 

The first road on R., beyond the' District line, leads to_ the historic 
tract long known as Clean Drinking Manor, a name derived from a 1 
particularly clear spring on the estate. The first owner was one John 
Coates who. in 1680, received a Crown grant of 1400 acres. This { 
property was inherited by a granddaughter, who married Charles Jones, ' 
better known as "Uncle Charlie" Jones^ famous for his hospitality^; 
Clean Drinking Manor, erected in 1750, entertained Washington on his ' 
way home to Alexandria from Fort Duquesne in 1755. Here Postinaster | 
Monroe took refuge when driven from Washington by the British; ani | 
here at a later date, Clay, Webster and Calhoun were welcome guests.^' 

IV. Massachusetts Avenue from Rock Creek to the 

District Line 

Beyond Sheridan Circle, Massachusetts Avenue bends 
almost due northwest, crosses Rock Creek, a few rods N. 
of Oak Hill Cemetery (p. 479), and continues about 3 mi. 
to the District Line, passing the Naval Obserz'atory, the || 
JVashingion Cathedral and the grounds of the American Uni- \ 
versity. Since there is no trolley line on the lower section \ 
of Massachusetts Ave., the visitor must either motor out, or 
go first to Georgetown and take a Wisconsin Ave. Car, which 
turns off onto Massachu.setts Ave. opposite the Cathedral . 
Close. 

The U. S. Naval Observatory (PI, III— Ci) is situated ini! 
Observatory Circle, about Va mi- beyond Rock Creek, on S.' 
side of Massachusetts Ave. (there is also an entrance from I 



MASSACHUlSETTS AVENUE EXTENDED 443 

Wisconsin Ave., beyond No. 2521). It is the astronomical 
station of the Government, under jurisdiction of the Navy. 
The superintendent is a naval officer of high rank (at present 
[1922] Capt. W. D. MaoDougall), whose primary object is the 
collection and dissemination of information of use to mariners. 
The staff, however, is not limited to naval men, but includes 
civilians as well, and much important astronomical work of a 
purely scientific character is conducted. It was with the 36- 
inch equatorial telescope of this observatory that Asaph Hall 
discovered the mioons of Mars. 

Hours. Parties are conducted through the observatory 
Thursday evenings at 8 p. m. Admissiion by card only, which 
may be obtained by applying at office of the superintendent 
between 9 a. m. and 4 130 p. m. 

The Naval Observatory at Washington and the Navy Chronometer 
and Time Station, at the Navy Yard, Mare Island, Calif., furnish the 
country standard time daily, both by telegraph and radio, respectively 
supplying the sections of the country east and west of the Rocky Moun- 
tains. The Naval Observatory furthermore supervises the outfit of 
navigational instruments for the naval service, and conducts continu- 
ous observations of the heavenly bodies for use in preparing the annual 
Nautical Almanac. 

History. In the winter of 1842-43 Lieut. J. M. Gilliss was sent 
to Europe to procure the instrumental equipment for a new depot of 
charts and instruments, afterwards known as the Naval Observatory. 
Incidentally he received donations of books amounting to nearly 500 
volumes which formed the nucleus of the present Observatory Library, 
the principal donors including the Royal Society of London, the British 
Admiralty and the East India Co. The library now contains about 
30,000 volumes, and is reputed to be the best collection of astronomical 
literature in the western hemisphere. The original Naval Observatory 
stood in the grounds of the present Naval Hospital dp. 215). The 
new Observatory was erected on iti present site in 1892, thereby giving 
the world a new meridian. 

The clock which sets the standard for the country is 
kept in a glass case, in a dark underground vault, so placed 
that no changes of temperature can affect it, being surrounded 

' by three walls with air spaces between. Scientific Govern- 
ment officers watch over it day and night, continually cor- 

: recting it 'by observations of the sun and stars. The correc- 
tions are seldom more than 10 one-hundredths 'of a second. 

i From this clock wires pass to two time-sending clocks in 

I another room, and from these the correct time is sent out to 

I the country at large. 

Half a mile beyond the Naval Observatory Massachusetts 
and Wisconsin Aves. intersect almost .opposite the entrance to 
the Cathedral Close of St. Peter's and St. Paul's (p. 455). 

; The American University (PI. III^Ci), situated at the 

iN. W. cor. of Nebraska Ave. and Massachusetts Ave. Ex- 



444 RIDiER'S WASHINGTOX 

tended, is an institution for post-graduate studies, founded 
under the auspices of the Methodist Episcopal Church. The 
grounds, comprising ninety acres, were laid out by the late 
Frederick Lazv Olmsted, and the plans call for a group of 
twenty-six white marble buildings, only two of which have 
as yet been erected. 

The origin of the American University may be indirectly traced 
to George Washington, one of whose ambitious dreams for the proposed 
Federal City was the establishment of a National institution of higher 
learning; and he left a bequest of $25,000 of stock in the Potomac 
River Company for this purpose. After Washington's death, the stock 
having proved worthless, Congress considered the question of appropri- 
ating a sufficient sum to found such an institution as he had desired. 
An outline of the scheme was prepared and referred to a committee; 
but these plans were burned during the British occupation. Subse- 
quently, Congress rejected the whole idea of establishing a University 
as a memorial to Washington, and substituted instead the Washington 
Monum^ent. 

From time to time the scheme of a National University was re- 
vived in a more or less indefinite form; but nothing practical was 
accomplished imtil 1888, when Bishop John F. Hurst acquired the 
ninety-acre tract, formerly known as "Friendship," at a cost of 
$100,000. This tract was originally owned by Col. Thomas Addison, 
of Oxen Hill (opposite Alexandria), who gave it as a wedding present 
to his daughter, Nancy, and her husband, Wil'iam Murdock. a Mary- 
land delegate to the famous Stamp Ad: Congress. Col. Addison was 
a cousin to Joseph Addison, the essayist, and tradition says that the 
two were students at Oxford, and that Oxen Hill was so named in 
honor of that University. 

After the death of Bishop Hurst, in 1896, the work was 
carried on by his successor, Bishop Cranston. Ground was 
broken the same year, and the cornerstone of the College of 
History was laid by Presidenit Roosevelt. This l>uilding. the 
first of the group, was completed in 1898. 

V. The National Zoological Park 

The *National Zoological Park (PI. Ill— C2) compris- 
ing about 175 acres, is situated in Rock Creek valley about 3 mi. 
N. W. of the Capitol, with its main or W. entrance on Connecti- 
cut Ave. Reached by Chevy Chase Line, from 7th St., to Con- 
necticut Ave. and Jewett St. (N. W. entrance) ; 7th St. 
Line (marked "Rock Creek Bridge") to Lanier Place (five 
minute walk to S. entrance) : or Connecticut Ave. Line 
(marked "Mt. Pleasant") to Harvard St., at intersection of 
i6th St. and Columbia Road (five minutes w^alk W. on 
Harvard St. to S. E. entrance). 

History. Numerous unsuccessful attempts, chiefly commercial, had 
previously been made to establish some permanent exhibit of live • 
animals in Washington. It was not, however, until 1887 that the 
first serious movement was started by Prof. S. P. Langley, Secretary ; 
of the Smithsonian Institution, in the form of an appeal to Congress I 



THE NATIONAL ZOOLOGICAL PARK 445 




446 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

for the establishment of a National Zoological Park. Professor Lang- 
ley's interest arose primarily from the fact that an important number 
of the larger native American Mammals, including the Buffalo, Moose 
and Wapiti seemed doomed to extinction within twenty years, unless 
protected in adequate government preserves. A secondary argument 
was that the Smithsonian Institution had been for years embarrassed with 
presentations of foreign animals, birds and reptiles which, in the 
absence of suitable quarters, it was forced to present to some of the 
State Parks. 

In compliance with Professor Langley's appeal. Congress made 
an appropriation of $200,000 to establish within the District of Columbia 
a Zoological Park "for the Advancement of Science and the Instruc- . 
tion and Recreation of the People," and also abundant space, where | 
these "native animals that were threatened with extinction might live ] 
and perpetuate their species in peace." !; 

The restilting Zoological Park, despite its 175 acres and 1500 exhibits, ' 
cannot fail to strike any visitor familiar with similar institutions in other t 
world, capitals, as somewhat disappointing, both in regard to the range j 
of specimens exhibited and the inadequate buildings which house them. ; 
The first of these deficiencies is perhaps more apparent than real, the '' 
chief weakness being the relative lack of the larger and more spectacular ' 
mammals of Asia and Africa. One misses the giraffe, the rhinoceros I 
and most of the African antelopes; the Fclidae are poorly represented, i 
with few lions and tigers, while most of the smaller cats, the Ocelit, ■ 
Serval, etc., are lacking. On the other hand, there are notable bir 1 ! 
collections, especially of the American water fowl and birds of prey; | 
and the open-air bear dens house a wide variety of bears. But the ; 
indoor exhibits, however excellent, do not get the credit they deserve, ■ 
because of cramped, antiquated quarters. The Monkey House and Bird i 
House especially are so dark that some of the labels in the cages can be ] 
read only with difficulty. 

These deficiencies are emphasized by the rare opportunities offered by I 
the Park's spacious grounds and scenic beauties. With the single exception j 
of the collection in Bronx Park, New York City, which occupies 204 acres 
exclusive of water surface, the National Zoological Park is unrivaled in • 
extent of space. The famous London "Zoo" has only 36 acres, the 
Jardin des Plantes in Paris 17 acres, the Thiergartett in Berlin 40 acres, [, 
the Cincinnati collection 36 acres and that of Philadelphia 60 acres. 
It is only fair to add that the Administration of the Park, which is 
under the charge of the Smithsonian Institution, has done surprisingly, 
well in view of the scanty appropriations that Congress has half- 
heartedly granted. A landmark to this parsimonious spirit is ?tiir 
standing in the shape of the old Elephant House, a flimsy, wooden 
structure in which for many years a fvill-grown elephant was kept « 
heavily chained, until the women of Washington, aroused by this 
needless cruelty, prevailed upon Congress to provide the means for 
erecting an adequate Elephant House. The original bill, providing; 
$20,000, was cut down by one-half after a debate, during which oi:e i 
member argued that $10,000 "ought to build a house good enough for , 
any elephant he had ever seen." 

The Zoological Park is open throughout the year al!' 
7-30 a. m. The exhibition buildnigs open at 9 a. m. Tiic ' 
closing hours vary as follows: January and February, Buill- 
ings, 4.30 p. m., Grounds, 6 p. m. ; March, Buildings, 5 p. ni. . 
Grounds, 6:30 p. m. ; April, Buildings, 5 p. m., Grounds i 
7 p. m. ; May i to June 15, Buildings. 5.30 p. m., Groun Is ' 
7.30 p. m. ; June i6 to August 31, Buildings, 5.30 p. m. ^^ 

>4 



THE NATIONAL ZOOLOGICAL PARK 447 

Grounds, 8 p. m ; September, Buildings, 5.30 p. m., Grounds, 
/.30 p m.; October, Buildings, 5 p. m., Grounds, 6.30 p m. • 
November and December, Buildings, 4.30 p. m., Grounds 
p. m. ' 

Feeding Hours: Monkeys at 9.30 a. m. and 3 p. m. • 
Lions and Tigers at 1.30 p. m., excepting on Sundays; Wolves 
and Foxes at 1,15 p. m. ; Bears and Sea Lions, at 8 a. m. and 
3 p. m. ; Birds in mam Bird House at 2.30 p. m 

An official Popular Guide, National! Zoological Park is 
on sale at the Lion House, price 35 cents. 

The Zoological Park grounds lie mainly on the heights, 
which rise abruptly from the W. bank of Rock Creek, and 
much of It IS forest land with century-old trees towering up 
from deep ravines. The Creek, entering the park at the 
middle point of the N. side, curves S. E until near the S 
boundary, where it makes a sudden sharp loop to the N ' 
forming altogether a reversed letter S. A broad carriage- 
drive crosses the bridge just within ttie S. E. entrance and 
curving to the N.W. follows the upper course of the Creek 

to he n' w'' '^ \T' ^'u"^."' ^"^"^"^ Whence westward 
to the N. W gate The exhibits are all adjacent to this 
driveway, and the best way to see them without wearisome 
retracing of steps is by entering at one side of the Park and 
following the course of the drive to its exit at the other. 

fr.Ll .^ Q t^ ^'^'" '^^i:^' ^"^'^ ^^^ ^"^d^^^s Mill Road en- 
trance^ at S. E. corner of the Park, and ends at the Jewett 
street entrance on Connecticut Avenue 

.u i'i'^-^-^?"^. the Adams Mill Road entrance may be seen 
rheA<h,mrsirafwn Office Braiding, not open to the public l" 
IS an historic house, the old Holt Homestead, where General 
ackson was accustomed, during his Presidency, to seek relief 
CVt '""^r' ^!^' °^ Washington. A sign-post direct 
tl^nTy'V^V'^-'''-^ ''''^ P^th ^"d stairway descending 
R t^. fi f ^- ^ContmumgE beside the Creek, we reach, oS 
^':Jj. fii-st exhibits: I. Indian Ajitelope or Black Buck 
, Cinn^^^^ Ha.borSeal. Phoca vitulina (Linnf; 

^.Cinnamon Bear, brsus amcncanus; habitat: forest reeim 
fi North America from Alaska to Mexico. The speciSS 
.ere shown is one of two received with their black mother ™m 
I ellowstone National Park in 1908. 

ind ^t'i'i beyond these exhibits is the Harvard Street entrance, 
nd the beginning of the main driveway. Followino- this 
LkW 7 T'^'T'^ f ^°^s the bridge over Rock Creek, and 

atut 6^ f'. 1^ "'\ ^" ^' Tu'^'l^'' ^^^^"^'^'^ artificial 'pond 
,about 600 f . long) occupied by American Water Fowl. The 

ollection includes at present : 



448 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

I. Wood Duck, Aix spO)isa {Linn.) ; 2. Mallard, Anas 
platyrhynchos (Linn.) ; 3. Black Duck, Anas rubriprcs (Brezv- 
sfer) ; 4. Baldpate, Mareca atncricana (Gmelin) ; 5. Lesser 
Scaup Duck, Marila affinis (Eyton) ; 6. Pintail, Dafila acuta 
(Linn.) ; 7. Redhead, Marila americana (Eyton) ; 8. Canvas- 
back, M. Valisineria (Wilson); 9. European Widgeon, 
Mareca penelope (Linn.) ; 10. Barnacle Goose, Brant a ciic- 
opsis; IT. Trumpeter Swan, Olor buccinator (formerly in- 
habited a large part of interior of North America, but is 
now almost extinct) ; 12. Whistling Swan, Olor cohimbianus 
(Ord.) ; 13. Canada Goose, Brant a canadensis (Linn.) ; 14. 
Whitefronted Goose, Anscr aJbifrons; 15. Greater Snow 
Goose, Chen hyperboreus nivalis ; 16. Blue Goose, Chen cae- 
rulescens (Linn.); 17, Brant, Branta vernicla glaucogastra; 
18. Ruddy Sheldrake, Casarca fcrruginea Pallas; 19. Green- 
winged Teal, Nettion carolinense (Gmelin) ; 20. Blue-winge.l 
Teal, Qnerquedula discors (Linn.) ; 21. American Coot, Fulica 
americana (Gmelin), and nearly 20 other species of American 
Waterfowl. 

The path continues westward beside the Water Fowl 
Pond, and curves northward towards the Fox and Wolf 
Dens, lying in a narrow gorge through which a brook 1 
flows, to join Rock Creek just below. There are twelve j 
of these Dens, occupied as follows: (S. W. to N. E.) : i. 
Eskimo Dog, received from iRear-Adm. Robert E. Peary; 
2. Dingo, Canis dingo; 3. Woodhouse's Wolf, Canis frustror;] 
4-6. Plains Wolf. Canis nubilus ; 7. Southern Wolf, Canis) 
doridanns, from Arkansas National Park; 8. Red Fox, Vulpcs 
fulva; 9. Gray Fox, Urucyon cinereoargenteus; 10. Coyote. j 
Canis latrans; ii. Red Fox; 12. Texas Red Wolf. Canisi 
rufiis. 

North of the Wolf Dens are a series of pools supplied by^ 
the brook, and containing: i. California Sea-Lion, Zalophns 
calif ornianns (Lesson) ; 2. American Beaver, Castor canadensis 
(Kuhl) ; 3. Swans;. 4. Florida Otter, Lutra canadensis raga, 
5. Coypu or Nutria, Myo^casfor coypns; 6. Woodchuck oi| 
Ground Hog, Marmota monax. 

The Bear Dens curve in a broad semi-circle around thf_ 
high ledge above us on the E. Retracing our steps, beside 
the pools, we take first ascending path on L. (E.). Thes' 
Dens are ten in number, containing the following specimens!, 
from N. to E. : i. American Black Bear, Ursus am erica ni(S\f^ 
Kodiak Bear, Ursus middendorffi; 2. *Blue or Glacier Beaif 
Ursus emmonsii, from Mt. St. Elias Alps, Alaska, first I'vini 
specimen ever exhibited ; 3. Grizzly Bear, Ursus horribilii 



THE NATIONAL ZOOLOGICAL PARK 449 

from Yellowstone National Park; 4. Kidder's Bear, Ursus 
kidderi, from Cook Inlet; Brown Bear, Ursus arctos; 

5. Peninsula Bear, Ursus gyas; Yakutat Bear, Ursus dalli; 

6. Polar Bear, Thalassarctos maritimus; 7. Peninsula Bear ; 
Kidder's Bear; 8. Kodiak Bear; 9. IBrown Bear, young 
specimen born in Zoo Jan. 7, 1921 ; 10. Sloth Bear, Melursus 
ursinus; Cinnamon Bear, U. americamis cinnamomum ; Florida 
Bear. 

A few yards E. of the Bear Dens the path brings us once 
more to the Main Driveway, almost opposite the Lion House. 
Just_ S. on L. of Driveway, are a group of outdoor cages in- 
cluding: I. California Condor, Gymnogyps calif ornianus, 
several fine specimens of this almost extinct bird ; 2. American 
Barn Owl, Tyto perlata pratincola; 3. Gray Coatimimdi, Nasua 
narica; 4, Red-tailed Hawk, Buteo horealis; 5. Great Horned 
Owl, Buho virgmianus ; 6. Rliesus Monkey, Macaca rhesus; 7. 
Audubon's Caracara, Polyhorus cheriway; 8. Barbary Maca- 
que, Macacus innuus; 9. Brown Macaque, M. speciosa. 

We may now cross the Driveway, due E., to the Lion 
House, which is a T-shaped building substantially built 
of gneiss, with foot of T pointing almost N. Entering 
at S. W. cor. we may proceed to make the circuit of the build- 
ing from R. to L. : 

South Wall (W. to E.) : i. Bengal Tiger; 2. Lion, Felis 
Ico ; 3. Siberian Tiger, F. tigris longipilis; 4. Lion; 5. Tiger 
Cubs; 6. Cheetah, Acinonyx jubatus. 

North Wall, East Section (E. to W.) : i- iR'egal Python, 
Python reticulatus ; 2. Chimpanzee, Pan troglodytes. This 
specimen, named "Soko," was received from the French Congo 
in Sept., 191 5, and is about ten years old. 

North Wing, East Wall (S. to N.) : i. Orang-utan; 2. 
Spotted Hyena, Hyaena crocuta; 3. Striped Hyena, H. striata; 
4. Jaguar, Fclis onca; 5 and 6. Leopard, F. pardalis. 

West Wall (N. to S.) : i and 2. Pair of Brazilian Tapirs, 
Tapiriis americanus (Gmelin) ; the male was received 1899, 
the female 1901. Eight young have been born of this pair; 
3. and 4. Cage and tank of male Hippopotamus, received from 
German East Africa 1914, when about three years old. 

North Wall, West Section: Cage and tank of female 
Hippopotamus, received from East Africa in 191 1, and 
christened by the keepers "Sairy Gamp." 

Central Exhibits : i. Large tank containing well-grown 
specimens of American Alligator, A. mississippiensis {Dau- 
din) ; 2. Large Glass Case containing Snakes: Common Boa, 
Constrictor constrictor; Black Snake, Coluber constrictor; 



450 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Regal Python, Python rcticulatus ; Rock Python, P. molurus; 
Chicken Snake, Coluber ohsoletus quadrivit tains; Brown 
Water Snake, Natrix taxispilotiis. 

Directly opposite N. exit is a small open outdoor cage, 
the^ summer quarters of the Chimpanzee, Pan troglodytes 
(Linn.). This specimen, a male, was received September 8th, 
1915, and was then about three and a half years old. 

Opposite the N. E. side of the Lion House are : the 
Puma Cage (Felis concolor Linn.), and the Ostrich Paddock. 
Continuing N. W. along the path which here skirts the brink 
of the deep Rock Creek gorge, we come next to the Monkey 
House, easily distinguished by the terra-cotta models of 
baboons and other small animals which surmount the roof. 

West Wall (N. to S.) : Cage i. Bonnet Macaque, Maca-ca sinica; 
Cage 2. White-throated Capuchin, Cebiis liypolcucus; Javan Macaque, 
Maca€a morda.v ; Brown Capuchin. Cebus fatucllus; Cage 3. Sooty Man- 
gabey, Cercocebiis fuUginosiis ; Cage 4. Crab-eating ]\Iacaque, M. cyno- 
molgus; White-collared Mangabey, Cercocebiis torquatns ; Cage 5. Bengal 
Monkey, M. rhesus ; Cage 6. Mona Monkey, Cercopithecus mona; Cage 7. 
Bengal Monkey; Cage 8. Drill, Papio leiicophaens ; Cage 9. Moor 
Monkey, Magus mauriis. 

East Wall (S. to N.): Cage i. Bengal Monkey; Cage 2. Roloway 
Guenon, Lasiopyga roloway: Cage 3. East African Baboon, Papio 
ibeanus; Cage 4. Black-crested Mangabey, Cercocebiis aterrimus ; Cage 5. 
Arabian Baboon, Papio Jiamadryas ; Cage 6. Mandrill, Papio sphinx; 
Cage 7. Burmese Macaque, Macaca speciosa; Cage 8, Vervet Guenon, 
Lasiopyga pygerythra ; Cage 9. Green Monkey, Lasiopyga callitrichus; 
Cage 10. Pig-tailed Monkey, Macaca nemcstrina; Cage 11. Patas Monkey, 
Cercopithecus patas; Cage 12. Rhodesian Baboon, Papio rhodesiae. 

At the N. W. end are two tiers of cages containing Weasels, Cavys, 
Agoutis and othere small animals: (E. to W.) : i. Trinidad Agouti, 
Dasyprocta rubrata ; 2. Guinea Pig, Cavia porcellus; 3. Cacomistle, 
Bassarisciis astutiis; 4. Azaras Agouti, Dasyprocta azarac ; 5. Kinkajou, 
Potos flaz'us ; 6. Tayra, Tayra barbara; 7. Malay Palm Civet, Paradoxurus 
herinapliroditus; 8. Crested Agouti, Dasyprocta cristata ; 9. Coatimundi, 
A'asiia narica; 10. South African Crested Porcupine, Hystrix cristaia; 
II. Central Americian Paca, Cuniculus paca; 12. Malay Porcupine, Acan- 
thion brachyurum. 

East of the Monkey House a steep stairway of 71 steps 
leads down to the lower Driveway and Bridle-path, which 
skirt respectively the W. and E. banks of Rock Creek. On 
the W. arc five paddocks containing: (S. to N.) : i- Panama 
White-tailed Deer, Odocoileus i/irginianus chiriquensis ; 2. 
Hog Deer, Hyelaphiis porcinus; 3. Mountain Goat. Oreamnos 
americanus (gift of Canadian Government) ; 4. Yak, Poepha- 
gus grunniens; 5. Manchurian Stag, Cervus xanthopygus. A 
narrow foot->bridge crosses the Creek to the extensive ranges 
of the American Wapiti, Cermis canadensis (Erxleben). 

Immediately N. of the Monkey House are (on R.) the 
large open-air Eagle Cage; and (on L.) the enclosed Bird 
House. In the former are housed: i. Golden Eagle, Aquila 



THE NATIONAL ZOOLOiGICAL PARK 451 

chrysaefos (Linn.) ; 2. Bald Eagle, Haliaetos leucocephalus 
{Linn.); 3. Bearded Vulture, Gypa'etos barbatus (Linn.); 
4. Griffon Vulture, Gyps fulvus (Linn.); 5. Cenereous Vul- 
ture, Vultur monachus (Linn.); 6. Turkey Vulture, Cath- 
artes aura (Linn.) ; 7. Alaskan Bald Eagle, Haliaetus leuco- 
cephalus. 

The Bird House has a number of outside cages on the southern 
side containing: (E. to W.) Cage i. Condor, Sarcoramphus gryphus 
{Linn.); Cage 2. Australian Crane, Grtts australasianus (Gould): 
Cage 3. White-naped Crane; Cage 4. Wild Goose; Cage 5. SandiiiU 
Crane„ Grus mexkana; Cage 6. Crowned Crane, Balearica pazwnina 
(Linn.); Cage 7. Indian White Crane, Grus leucogeranus; Cage 8. Lil- 
ford's Crane, Grus lUfordi; Cage 9. Doves and Pigeons; Cage 10. 
Alaskan Eagle. 

Inside Cages. Southwest Side (S. to N.) : i. Secretary Vulture, 
Gypogeranus secretarius (Miller); 2. Goliath Heron, Ardea goliath; 
3." Common Rhea, Rhea ainericana (Linn.); 4. Sclater's Cassowary, 
Casuarius gal cat us ; 5. Crowned Crane, Balearica pavonina; 6. Common 
Emu, Dromains novae-hollandiae (Latham) ; 7. Somali Ostrich., StriUhic 
tnotybdophanes (Richenow) , presented to the President of the United 
States by the King of Abyssinia; 8. Secretary Vulture, Gypogeranus 
secretarius (Miller); 9. Silver Pheasant, Euplocamus nychtemerus 
(Linn.); 10. King Vulture, Gypagus papa (Linn.); 11. Hawaiian Goose, 
Nesochcn sandzncevisis ; 12. European Raven, Corvus corax ; 13. Aus- 
tralian Crow, C^orrus coronoides; 14. Doves and Pigeons; 15. Cage 
containing a large variety af song-birds and_ other" small birds, including: 
Bob-white^ Colinus tirginianus (Linn.); Crimson-crowned Weaver Bird, 
Pyromelana vammiceps (Szvainson) ; Black-headed Uun, Munia atricapilla; 
White headed Nim, Munia maja (Linn.); Pekin Nightingale, Liothrix 
luteus (Scop.); Spice Bird, Munia punctulata; Cardinal, Cardinalis 
cardinalia (Linn.); Red-billed Weaver Bird, Quelea quelea (Linn.); 
Paradise Whydah-finch, Steganura paradisea (Linn.) ; Cut-throat Weaver- 
finch, Amadina fasciata (Gntelin) ; Three colored Finch, Munia malacca 
(Linn.). 

North Side (N. to S.) : Cages i to 20 contain a large variety of 
parrots, parrakeets, cockatoos, macaws and allied species. Cage 21. 
Collection of small birds of the finicih type, 26 species; 22. Turtles; 
23. Great Wthite Heron, Ardea occideutalis ; 24. East Indian Gallinule, 
Porphyrio calvus; 25. White-backed Trumpeter, Psophia leucoptera; 
26. Piping Crow-Shrike, 'GyniHor/nnfl tibican; 27. Short-Winged Weka, 
Ocydromus bracypterus; 29. Giant Kingfisher, Dacelo gigas ; 30. South 
Island Weka Rail, Ocydromus australis; 31. Satin Bower Bird. Ptilo-ni- 
rhynchus violaceus; 32. Kagu, Rhynochetos jubatus; 33. King Paroquet, 
.4prosmictus cyanopygius; 34. Boat bill, Cochlearius cochlearius; 35. 
Pennants Paroquet, Red-rumped Paroquet, Rosella Paroquet; 36. Cock 
of the Rock, Rupicola rupicola. 

Large Cage at West End: a. Snowy Heron, Ardea candidissima 
(Gmelin) ; b. European Flamingo, Phoenicopterus roseus ; c. Australian 
Black Duck, Anas superciliosa ; d. American Brown Pelican, Pelecanus 
fuscns (Linn.); e. Whooping Crane, Grus americanus (Linn.); f. 
Demoiselle Crane, Anthropoidcs' virga (Linn.) ; g. Common White Stork, 
Ciconia ciconia; h. Sacred Ibis, Ibis aethiopica (Latham); i. Wijite Ibis, 
Guara alba (Linn.); j. Roseate Spoonbill, Ajaja ajaja (Linn.); k. 
Eyton's Tree Duck, Dendrocygna eytoni; 1. Anhinga or Snake Bird, 
Anhinga anhinga (Linn.). 

Opposite the Bird House on S. W. side of drive, which 
here curves westward, is the Small Antelope House, con- 



452 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

taining at present a miscellaneous collection of smaller ani- 
mals. Like the Lion House, it is T-shaped, with central 
wing extending east. 

Cages along W. wall contain (N. to S.) : i. Nilgai, Boselaphus 
tragocanielus ; 2. Capybara, Hydrochoerus hydrochoeris ; 3. Blessbok, 
Damaliscus albifrons; 4. Young LJama, born in Zoo (Feb. 19, 1922; 5. 
Yellow'-footed Rock Wallaby, Petrogale xanthopus; 6. Rufous-bellied 
Wallaby, Macropus billardieri; 7. Great Gray Kangaroo, Macropus 
giganteus. 

East Wall, South Section (S. to N.) : i. Paca, Cuniculus paca; 2. 
Malay Bear, Melarctos malayanus ; 3. Capybara. 

East Wing, South Wall (W. to E.) : i. Brazilian Ocelot, Felis 
pardalis braziliensis ; 2. Indian Antelope; 3. Wallaroo, Macropus robustus; 
4. Swamp Wallaby; 5. Kangaroo Island Kangaroo, Macropus nielanops; 
6. Lechwe, Kobus leche ; 7. Northern Wart-Hog, Phacochoerus africanus. 

North Wall (E. to W.) : i. Wart-hog; 2. Blessbok; 3. and 4. 
Great Red Kangaroo, Macropus rufus; 5. Trinidad Brocket, Ma::ama 
simplicicornis ; 6. Tasmanian Devil, Sarcophilus ursinus; 7. Striped 
Hyena, H. hyaena; 8. Dusky Phalanger, Trichosurus fuliginosus. 

East Wall, North Section (S. to N.) : i. Common Phalanger, Tricho- 
surus vulpecula; 2. Gray Coatimundi, Nasua narica; 3. Brush-tailed Rock 
Kangaroo, Petrogale penicillata (Gray). 

Directly N. of the Small Antelope House is the Old j 
Elephant House (See plan, p. 445), containing two young j 
Sumatran Elephants, Elephas sitmatranus, caught wild in 1918 | 
and "purchased for the children of Washington by 60 friends." j 
Just beyond is the Tapir Pen, containing another pair of i| 
Brazilian Tapirs, interesting for having stood the outdoor 
winter weather since 191 1. Beyond the Tapirs is the New | 
Elephant House (See plan, p. 445), originally built for I 
"Dunk," an Indian Elephant, presented in 1891 by the Director 1 
of the Adams Forepaugh Circus, and the first animal received j 
by the "Zoo." A bronze memorial tablet on S. wall, erected ji 
by the children of Washington, records the death oif Dunk ;| 
in 1917, at the age of 51. The building now houses an African \ 
Elephant, Elephas oxyotis. 

Back of these buildings are several small cages and en- 
closures containing respectively: i. Broad-winged Hawk, 
Biitco platypterus; 2. Sparrow Hawk, Falco sparverhis; 3- 
Screech O'wl, Otus asio ; 4. Raccoon, Procyon lotor. East of 
these and north of the main Bird House is a series of small 
out-door cages containing: (S. to N.) : i. Kea or Mountain 
Parrot Nestor «o?a&z7w, a sheep-killing Parrot, native of New 
Zealand, which tears through wool and skin and eats the fat 
around the kidneys while the sheep is still alive ; 2. Mexican 
Puma, F'elis asteca; 3. Canada Lynx, Lynx canadensis; 4.-6. 
Biay Lynx, Lynx ruffus; 7. Snow Leopard, Felis unria; 8. 
Plains Wolf, Canis nuhilus; 9. Chacma Baboon, Papio por- 
carius; 10. Himalayan Bear, JJrsus thibetanus; 11. Wild 

U 



THE NATIONAL ZOOLOGICAL PARK 453 

Boar, Sus scrofa; 12. Puma, Felis hippolestes, from Utah; 
13. Puma from Southern Arizona, Felis azteca. 

Continuing N. W., the next building is the Zebra House, 
containing: i. Grant's Zebra, Equiis burchelli grantii; 
2. *Zebra-horse, Hybrid "Juno" : sire, Grevy's Zebra ; and 
Morgan mare ; 3. *Zelbra-ass, Hybrid from male Grevy's and 
female domestic as5. 

Directly W. Is the enclosure occupied at present by Pea- 
cocks. North is the small circular enclosure containing: 
Prairie Dogs, Cynomys ludoviUanns (Ord.). Adjoining on E. 
is the Rabbit Warren. 

Northwest from the Zebra House are Sheep Pens 
(See plan, p. 445), containing at present: i. Barbary Sheep, 
Ammofragits lervia; 2. Cashmere Deer, Cervus hanglu; 3. 
Rocky 'Mountain Sheep, from Banff, Alberta (gift of Cana- 
dian Cjovernment) ; 4. Livingstone's Eland, Taurotragus oryx 
Hvingstonii, presented by Duke of Bedford. 

To reach the remaining exhibits, we now cross the drive- 
way and proceed westward to the Llama Pens, at which point 
the path forks, the right branch following the curve of the 
Driveway to the Jewett St. gate, while the left path leads to 
the same spot in an almost straight line. Following the curve 
of the R. path we pass the following exhibits : i. Llama, 
Lama glama; 2. Zebu, Bos indicus; 3. Guanaco, Lama hiiann- 
chiis; 4. Arabian Camel, Cmnelus dromedariiis; 5. Sambar or 
Rusa Deer, Rusa unicolor; 6. Grevy's Zebra, "Jerry," sire of 
the two hybrids in Zebra House; 7. Alpaca, Lama pacos; 
8, Arizona iMountain Sheep, Ovis canadensis ; 9. Tahr, Hemi- 
tragus jemlahicus. 

Returning to the fork in the paths we .may now follow 
the L. branch, passing on R. a series of Deer Ranges con- 
taining the following species: i. Red Deer, Cervus elaphus 
{Linn.) ; 2. Barasingha or Indian Swamp Deer, Rucervus 
duvaucelii; 3. Japanese Deer, Sika nippon. On L. in the 
valley below these Ranges, are three large Bird Cages; i. 
Aquatic Birds, including White-faced Tree Duck, Dendro- 
cygna viduata; Baikal Teal, Nettion formostim; Rosy-billed 
Pochard, Metopiana peposaca; Garganey, Querqnedula quer- 
quedula; Mandarin Duck, Aix galericulota; 2. Large Flying 
Cage, used as summer home for the inmates of the main Bird 
House ; 3. Smaller Flying Cage, summer home for Parrots, 
Macaws .and Cockatoos. 

Southward on hillside are more Deer Ranges, containing: 
I. Fallow Deer, Dama dama; 2. Indian Spotted Deer, Axis 



454 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

a.^is; 3. White-tailed or Virginian Deer, Odocoilcus virgin- 
ianus; 4. Mule Deer, Odocoileus hcniioniis. 

Lastly, just before reaching the Connecticut Ave. exit, 
we pass the extensive Range for American Bison, a herd 
numbering approximately 17 head, the surplus stock of which 
is exchanged to other parks and reservations. Between 30 
and 40 calves have .been born in the park herd. 

Rock Creek Park (PI. Ill — 'A2), extending from Klingle 
Ford Bridge (the N. boundary of the Zoological Park) to 
a point near the Diistrict line, constitutes Washington's largest 
public park, em,bracing 1606 acres of forest and stream, hill 
and valley. Although this territory was set off as a park as early 
as 1867, in a map prepared by the Engineer Corps in response 
to a Senate Resolution, no further action was taken until 1889, 
when fear that pollution of the stream might cost m.ore than 
the price O'f the land involved led to the passage of an Act 
for purchase of the territory. By the terms of this act, ap- 
proved Sept. 2y, 1890, a sum of $1,200,000 was appropriated 
for the acquisition of a tract following the course of the creek, 
of a width nowhere less than 600 ft. nor more than 1200 ft, 
wiith a total area not to exceed 2000 acres. One-half the cost 
was to be appropriated from the Treasury and one-half from 
the revenues of the District of Columbia. 

To effect the purchase, the President appointed a Com- 
missiion including among others the Chief of Engineers, 
U. S. A., the Engineer Commissioner of the District, and 
Professor Langley, Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution. 
After a long delay caused by dissatisfied land owners, who 
carried their case to the Supreme Court, the desired property 
was at last acquired at a total cost of only $1,174,511.45. 

"To Rock Creek Park there is nothing comparable in any 
capital city of Europe. What city in the world is there where 
a man . . . can within a quarter of an hour on his own 
feet get in a beautiful rocky glen, such as you would find in 
the woods of Maine or Scotland — a winding rocky glen with 
a broad stream foamiing over its ston}^ bed, and wild leafy 
w^oods looking down on each side, where you not only have 
a carriage road at the bottom, but an inexhaustible variety of 
foot-ipaths, where you can force your way through thickets 
and test your physical ability in scaling the faces of bold 
clifTs?" {Viscount James Bryce) . 

The old log cabin, for many years occupied by Joaquin 
Miller, "Poet of the Sierras," was some years ago removed 
from Meridian Hill, near i6th St., to Rock Creek Park, near 
the line of the Military Road. 



CATHEDRAL OF ST. PETER AND ST. PAUL 455 

VI. The Cathedral of St. Peter and St. Paul 

The Cathedral Close of the projected *Cathedral 
Church of St. Peter and iSt. Paul (PI. Ill — ^Ci) is situated 
about a quarter of a mile N. W. of the United States 
Naval Observatory, on a height known as Mt. Alban, with 
its main entrance on Wisconsin Ave. The Cathedral Close 
may be most conveniently reached by taking trolley to George- 
town and then transferring, at Wisconsin Ave. and M St., 
to the Tenleytown-Rockville Line. The entrance is near the 
intersection of Wisconsin and Massachusetts . Aves. 

The idea of a great National Cathedral for all people 
was, according to Major L'Enfant, a feature of Washington's 
original scheme for the Capital city. L'Enfant defined it as 
"a church for National purposes, such as public prayer, 
thanksgiving, funeral orations, etc, and to be assigned to the 
special use of no particular denomination or sect; but to be 
equally open to all." The idea, however, was abandoned, and 
the site selected is to-day occupied by the Patent Office. By 
a curious coincidence, the land finally acquired a century 
later once belonged to Joseph Nourse, a friend of Washing- 
ton, and first Registrar of the Treasury, who, we are told, 
used to pray "that at some future date God would build a 
church on Alban Hill." 

Before Joseph Nourse acquired it, Alban Hill formed part of 
Rosfidale, the estate of Gen. Uriah Forrest, First Clerk of the Court 
of the United States for the District of Columbia, whose daughter, 
Alice, married the son of President Yturbide of Mexico. 

The tract in question, about 60 acres in extent, 
is a wooded height some 400 feet above the level of 
lower Pennsylvania Ave. It is bounded on the N. by 
Woodley Road, on the W. by Wisconsin Ave. and Garfield St., 
and by the extension of 34th St. on the E. It slopes into a 
shallow ravine on the S., commanding an unrivalled view 
of the capital city. The vista seen through All Hallow's 
gate has been compared to the view of Florence from the 
Bdboli Gardens. This desirable site was occupied first in 1845 
by St. John's School for Boys, and, secondly, in 1855, by St. 
Alban's Free Church, the first free Episcopal church in the 
District. 

St. Alban's Church and, in an indirect way, the Washington 
Cathedral, owe their existence to the modest gift of Joseph Nourse's 



CATHEDRAL OF ST. PETER AND ST. PAUL 457 

granddaughter, Miss Phoebe Nourse, who left by will forty gold 
dollars "for a free church on Mount Alban." 

The charter for the Washington Cathedral Foundation 
was granted by Congress in 1893. Two years later 
the Diocese of Washington was set off from Maryland, and 
in 1896 Dr. Satterlee was consecrated First Bishop of Wash- 
ington. The land on Mt. Alban, first suggested for the pro- 
posed Cathedral of Washington- in 1866, was purchased in 
1898 for $245,000. 

The first ceremony was the erection of the Peace Cross, 
Oct. 23, 1898, marking: i. The close of the war with Spain; 
2. The foundation of the Cathedral of Sts. Peter and Paul. 
There were about 7000 persons present, and the address was 
made by President McKinley. On Ascension Day, 1906, tool* 
place the Hallowing of the Cathedral Close, commemorated 
by the erection of a Landmark recording the final payment 
of the purchase money for the land. 

The following month a committee to select an architect 
was appointed, consisting of D. H. B'urnham and Charles H. 
MicKim, of the "Park Commiission" (p. 354), and Bernard R. 
Green, Sir C. Purdon Clarke and Prof. Moore, of Harvard. 
Their unanimous vote resulted in the selection of Henry 
Vaughan, of Boston, and Dr. G. F. Bodley, of London. The 
joint plans of these two architects were accepted in June, 
1907, Not long after the preliminary drawings were made, 
Dr. Bodley died, and Mr. Vaughan continued the work alone, 
until his death on June 30, 1917. The present architects are 
Frohaman, Robb & Little, with Cram & Ferguson as con- 
sulting architects. 

Since the Cathedral has advanced only so far as com- 
pletion of the entire foundation, the Apse, and the Crypt or 
Bethlehem Chapel, directly beneath it, a lengthy description of 
the proposed strtrcture would here be out of place. Briefly stated, the 
general architectural scheme is 14th century Englisb Gothic, a style which 
the architects cbaracterize in their report as "the most beautiful, as 
we think, that the world has ever seen." In dimensions the Cathedral 
will compare favorably with most of the great Cathedrals of Europe. 
Its dimersions will be: length 480 ft.; breadth 132 ft.; height of nave 
95 ft.; span of nave 39 ft. It will have three square towers, the two 
smaller ones flanking the main entrance on the W. facade, while above 
the crossing of the nave and transepts will rise the great central tower 
262 ft. higgh. Towers have been chosen in place of spires for the reason 
that the latter "in the bright, golden sunshine of our atmosphere would 
appear attenuated and indistinct." An illustrated "Hand book of Wash- 
ington Cathedral," containing history and full description, may be 
obtained from the Verger, price 25 c. 



458 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

The Cathedral Close is open daily to the public from sun- 
rise until sunset ; the buildings are open for inspection except- 
ing during the hours of divine service. 

The visitor entering from Wisconsin Ave. should note 
to W. of entrance the Braddock Stone, a granite boulder 
bearing the following inscription : 

"This memorial was erected in 1907 by the Society of Colonial 
Wars, m the District of Columbia, to mark the road over which on 
April 14, 1755, a division of the British army vinder General Braddock 
marchedi on its way to Fort Duquesne." 

Just beyond, on L., is the quaint old Parish Church of St. 
Albans, much modernized ; its numerous memorial windows 
all have recent dates. Here, in 1898, the remains of the 
Rt. Rev. Thomas John Claggett, the first Bishop consecrated 
on American soil, were temporarily placed, pending completion 
of the Cathedral Crypt, where they now lie ; and at the same 
time the original tombstones of Bishop Claggett and Mary 
Claggett, his wife, bearing the inscription composed by Francis 
Scott Key were set in the Chancel wall. 

The small dwelling opposite on the S. is the Rectory. 
In the center of the sloping open space beyond, toward the 
E., stands the Peace Cross, an lona cross of stone 20 feet in 
height. It is around this Cross that the custom of Sunday 
open-air services has been established, and such are the natural 
acoustic properties of the spot that 25,000 persons can hear 
every word of the service and sermon. For the purpose of 
these services the base of the Cross has been extended on 
the W. side into a sort of pulpit, its inlaid pavement consist- 
ing of stones from the Holy Land, the central stone bearing 
the word "Salem," signifying Peace. Beyond the Peace Cross 
is the Landmark, commemorating the freedom of the Cathe- 
dral land from debt and bearing on its surface a sundial so 
constructed as to mark the different seasons of the Christian 
year. To the R. stands a quaint little Gothic structure, con- 
sisting of the Little Sanctuary or chapel of the Boys' school, 
and a gateway known as All Hallow's Gate, leading to the 
Choir school for boys. 

The *LiTTLE Sanctuary contains a number of highly 
prized relics and gifts. 

I. The Jerusalem Altar, the joint gift of various Amer- 
ican dioceses and congregations (see bronze tablet on opposite 
wall). The stones of which the altar is made are limestone 
rock from the so-called "Quarries of Solomon." the entrance 
to which is just outside the Damascus Gate of Jerusalem ; 2 
the Glastonburv Cathedra, made of stones from Glastonbury 



CATHEDRAL OF ST. PETER AND ST. PAUL 459 

Abbey in England, an ancient Abbey which once bore the 
name of St. Peter and St. Paul, and which, according to tra- 
dition, was founded by Joseph of Arimathea; 3. The Book of 
Remembrance and the Hilda Stone. The Book of Remem- 
brance, containing the names of the benefactors of the Cathe- 
dral, is enclosed in a stone receptacle on the S. side of the 
Chancel, and the top stone closing this receptacle comes from 
the ancient Abbey of St. Hilda at Whitby, England; 4. The 
lona Stone, a gift from the Lord Bishop of Argyle and the 
Isles. It comes from the choir of the ancient lona Cathedral, 
founded A. D. 565 by St. Columba, wihose dying words are 
inscribed upon the stone : "They who seek the Lord shall 
want no manner of thing that is good"; 5. The Canterbury 
Ambon, or stone pulpit, made of stones from Canterbury 
Cathedral, England. The Ambon is 10 feet high and, inclusive 
of the stone steps, about 14 feet in length. At its angles are 
four statuettes representing the four men most closely asso- 
ciated with the -history of the English Bible: y. King Alfred 
the Great ; 2. John Wycliffe ; 3. Lancelot Andrews, Bishop of 
Winchester, most prominent translator of the King James 
version; 4. Westcott, Bishop of Durham, one of the leaders 
in producing the revised version. 

Between these figures are three bas-reliefs representing 
from L. to R. : i. The Venerable Bede dictating on his death- 
bed his translation of the Gospel of St. John; 2. Archbishop 
Stephen Langton handing the Magna Charta to King John 
for his signature ; 3. The marytrdom of William Tyndale. 
In a frieze above these sculptures are recorded the names and 
dates of the principal English versions of the Bible. 

6. The Altar Paintings. The fouir Altar paintings in the 
Chancel of the Little Sanctuary represent, respectively, St. 
Matthew, St. Mark, St. Luke and St. Andrew {Edward Sat- 
terlee, artist) ; they were originally placed in the Sanctuary 
of Calvary Chapel, New York City. 

The National Cathedral School for Boys, in the S. W. 
cor. of the Cathedral Close, was established by a bequest of 
$300,000 by Mirs. Harriet Lane-Johnston, niece of President 
Buchanan, for the purpose of constructing a building to be 
known as the Lane-Johnston building in memory of her two 
sons who died in boyhood. The special purpose of the bequest, 
as explained in Mrs. Lane-Johnston's will, "while not restrict- 
ing the general objects of said school," is to provide for the 
free maintenance, education and training of choir boys, pri- 
marily for those in the service of the Cathedral. The corner- 



46o ' RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

stone of the Boys' school was laid in 1905, and the school 
opened Oct. 7, 1909. 

The visitor retracing his steps northward past the Peace 
Cross continues between St. Alban's Church on the L. and 
the recently erected Bishop's House on the R., known as the 
Mabel Murray Memorial, and turning to the E., reaches the 
Baptistry^ containing the "^Jordan Font. This building is a 
temporary structure, erected to protect the costly and beauti- 
ful Font from injury, and also to enable it to be used when 
required The permanent Baptistry will form part of ■die 
Cathedral structure, and will adjoin the S. W. cor. of the 
Nave. The Font, 15 feet in diameter, is one of the few 
Baptismal Fonts that have been built since the rise of Chris- 
tian art of sufficient size to allow for immersion, and testifies 
to the right of every Christian to have this sacrament admin- 
istered by immersion as well as by pouring. 

The Font, octagonal in shape, is wrought from pure 
white Carrara marble. In the center stands the figure of the 
risen Christ, holding on his left arm a little child, symbolizing 
his command to St. Peter : "Feed my lambs." The interior 
of the Font is lined with stones gathered from the River 
Jordan in 1903, under the supervision of Mr. Herbert E. Clark, 
U. S. vice-consul at Jerusalem, 

The eight exterior panels of the Font contain bas-reliefs 
recording the principal events in the life of Christ, in the 
following order: a. The Nativity; b. The Baptism; c. The 
calling of the Apostles; d. The Crucifixion; e. The Resurrec- 
tion; f. The Ascension; g. The Day of Pentecost; h. The 
coming of Christ to ransom his own at the Judgment Day. 
Eight apostolic figures stand at the respective corners of the 
octagon, and with one exception (namely, St. Jude) include 
all the writers of the New Testament : a. St. Peter ; b. St. Paul ; 
c. St. John; d. Joseph of Arimathea (who gave his sepulchre 
for the entombment of Christ) ; e. St. James of Jerusalem; f. 
St. Mark ; g. St, Matthew ; h. St. Luke. At present an iron 
screen prevents the visitor from making a complete tour of 
the Font without special permission. 

The site of the Cathedral lies almost due E. At present 
the only completed portion is the ^^Bcthlehem Chapel, 
situated in the crypt directly beneath the Apse of the 
Cathedral. This chapel has been pronounced one of the most 
perfect adaptations of 14th century Gothic to the purposes of 
crypt architecture that have been executed in modern times. 
It should be noted that the main axis of the Cathedral does not 



CATHEDlRAL OF ST. PETER AND ST. PAUL 461 

lie directly E. and W., but at a slight angle, chosen so that 
the rays of the rising sun will enter the east windows on 
the traditional day of Christ's Ascension, May 4th. Beneath 
the pavement lie the remains of Rt. Rev. Thomas John 
Claggett, D.D., consecrated Bishop of Maryland at Trinity 
Church, N«w York, Sept. 17, 1792, being the first Bishop 
of any Christian body to be consecrated on American soil. 
Immediately E. of Altar is the tomb of Henry Yates Satterlee, 
1843-1908, who was consecrated in 1896 first Bishop of Wash- 
ington. The tomb is of English alabaster, designed by 
[['. D. Caroe, London. 

The first object which commands the visitor's attention 
upon entering is the Altar, with its finely carved Reredos. 
This Altar is erected directly above the Foundation Stone 
of the Cathedral. This stone was quarried in a field adjacent 
to the Church O'f the Nativity in Bethlehem and is inscribed 
with the text, "The Word was made flesh and dwelt among 
us." 

The central panel of the Reredos represents the Nativity 
of Christ; to R. and L. of this panel are figures representing 
the four Evangelists, St. Matthew, St. Mark, St. Luke and 
St. John. Surrounding the Reredos is a border representing 
the conventionalized "Holy Thorn oi Glastonbury." 

The chapel contains a number of richly colored windows 
made by Kcnipe & Co., England. The subjects, beginning on 
the N. side, are as followis: i. The Old Testament prophecies 
of the Messiah, comprising the Prophet Micah and the 
Prophet Isaiah, each with their words of prophecy. Between 
these two figures is the genealogy of the Christ as given in 
the Gospel according to Luke ; 2. The "Gloria in Excelsis" 
window, showing the Angel appearing to the Shepherds ; 3. 
The "Ave Maria" window, representing the Annunciation; 4. 
The Epiphany window, representing the Adoration of the 
Wise Men ; 5. The "Nunc Dimittis" window, showing the 
Presentation in the Temple. The light over the N. door 
represents the Visit of the Virgin Mary to St. Elizabeth, and 
that over the S. door represents the Naming of St. John the 
Baptist. 

In the N. W. cor. of the grounds is situated the National 
Cathedral School for Girls, the gift of Mrs. Phoebe A. Hearst. 
The cornerstone of this building, laid in 1899, is inscribed 
with these words : "For Christ and His children. That our 
daughters may be as the polished corners of the Temple." 



462 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

VII. Georgetown 

Hisiboiric ^Georgetown (PI. Ill — Di), now legally a part of 
Washington, lying on the W. bank of Rock Creek, comprises 
approximately the territory bounded by the Potomac River on 
the S., T St. on the N. and the grounds of Georgetown 
College on the W. Reached by Pennsylvania Ave. and F 
St. Lines. 

History. Georgetown (originally written George-Town) 
was created by an Act of the General Assembly of Maryland 
which, in 1751, authorized five duly appointed Commissioners 
to lay out a town on the Potomac River, above the mouth 
of Rock Creek. The original sixty-acre tract selected by the 
Commissioners formed part of a patent of 705 acres, called 
the "Rock of Dumbarton," issued November i8th, 1703 by 
Henry Darnell, "Keeper of the Great Seal of the State of 
Maryland," to Col. Ninian Bcall (p. 471). 

Georgetown obviously did not owe its name to George Washington, 
then a lad of nineteen, nor is there evidence that it was so called in 
honor of King George of England. The original sixty acres were the 
property of two Georges; namely, George Beall and George Gordon. 
But if, as has been suggested, the town was named after them, it was 
an undeserved honor, since their refusal to sell forced the Commis- 
sioners to condemn the land, which was appraised at 280 pounds cur- 
rency. The offer of this sum, together with the privilege of selecting 
two lots each, was eventually accepted, although Beall did so under 
protest: 

"My acceptance of said lots, which is by force, shall not debar 
me from future redress from the Commissioners or others, if I can 
have the rights of a British .subject. I ask no more. God save King 
George." 

The original sixty acres constituted the limits of George- 
town for upward of thirty years, after which came, in rapid 
succession: i. Beall's Addition (1783), 61 acres; 2. The 
Beatty. Threlkelt and Deakin's Addition (1785), 20 acres; 
3. Beall's Second Addition (1789). 

Georgetown was incorporated December 25th, 1780. The 
first three Mayors were: IRbbert Peter (p. 239), Thomas 
Beall and Uriah Forrest ; the early Aldermen included : Dr. 
Charles Worthington, a friend of Washington, and Thomas 
Corcoran, father of William W. Corcoran. 

At the time of the establishment of the District of Columbia 'the 
only built-up centers within or near its limits were: i. The comparatively 
remote Alexandria (p. 512); 2. The sleepy old village of Rladensburg 
(p. 414), lying just out?ide the boundary line; 3. Georgetown, a place 
already of considerable importance both socially and financially, being 
a thriving port of entry, constituting the head of navigation on the 
Potomac; while its local aristocracy represented some of the best 
blood of Maryland and Virginia. It naturally followed that during 



GEORGETOWN 463 

the creation of the National Capital in the midst of woods and marshes, 
Georgetown became the social center of official and diplomatic circles, 
and for many years afterwards maintained its prestige. Here for the 
first decade, members of Congress dhose to reside, making the daily 
trip to the Capitol through the mud of K St. Many foreign Ministers 
kept their residence in Georgetown throughout the first quarter of the 
19th centurj'. 

In 187 1 the original charter of Georgetown was re- 
pealed by an Act of Cbngress. whidh establisihed a Muni- 
cipal Government for the entire District, but provided that 
all that portion within the original limits should continue to 
be known as the "City of Georgetown." This provision was 
cancelled by an Act of 1895, directing that the title and exist- 
ence of Georgetown as a separate and independent city by 
law should be abolished, and that the nomenclature of the 
streets and numbering of the squares should be made to con- 
form, so far as was practicable, with the system in force 
in Washington. 

Although Georgetown covers little more than a square mile, the 
points of interest are so widely scattered that to include them all in a 
single visit involves a walk of at least four miles. If time permits, 
it is preferable to make two separate trips, taking in' Oak Hill Cem- 
etery and Georgetown Heights the first day, and the southern section, 
including Georgetown College, on the next. The following itinerary, 
however, has been planned to cover all the principal sights in one <iay. 

a. M Street and the "Court End" 

M Street (formerly Bridge St.) is reached by Pennsyl- 
vania Ave. trolley line, at 28th St., one block W. of Rock 
Creek Bridge. It is a typical main street of a third-rate town, 
lined with cheap shops and saloons, interspersed with junk 
yards, a public market, some local banks and a pretentious 
Union Railway Station. On the south, the Chesapeake and 
Ohio Canal intersects the heart of the negro quarter. It is 
difficult to-day for a stranger to visualize the aristocratic 
Georgetown of a century ago, before the canal existed. 

"In 1776 the fashionable part of the town was/ below Bridge St.; 
there beauty and wit reigned, the upper part of the town being woods. 
During President Jefferson's tir-ie Sir Augustus Foster, the British 
Minister, writes there is no lack of handsome ladies for the balls in 
Georgetown, and asserts he never saw prettier girls anywhere. Cherry 
Alley, with its narrow, winding streets, was the court end of the town 
The quaint two-story houses were built of brick brought from Engl 
land, and had sloping roofs and queer shaped gables, with rows of 
dormer windows, where the housekeeper delighted in sunning her pre- 
serves and pickles, of which the boys in the neighborhood uninvited 
would enjoy a sample every now and then. Many a taste did Francis 
Scott Key have of these same preserves. In Cherry Allev lived the 
Whanns Peters, Keys Masons, Smith, Foxhalls, Bronaughs, Balchs. 
Bealls, Forrests, Mr. Scotch Thompson and many others. A number 
ot these houses are still in wonderful preservation." (Earlv Davs nf 
Washington, by S. Somervell Mackall) " ^^ ^' 



464 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

To-day there is little to attract the general visitor S. of 
M St.; but the lover of the picturesque will find himself re- 
paid by a ramble along the canal, and through the quaint and 
dilapidated back alleys. The tracks and freight yards of the 
Baltimore and Ohio R. R. have taken possession of K St., 
and swept away most of its ancient landmarks ; but W. of 
Wisconsin Ave, the old order, in part, remains, and historic 
Cherry Alley, although encroached upon by factories and 
tenements, still survives. 

On M St., No. 2921-29, at N. E. cor. of 30th St (formerly 
Washington St.) is the old Union Hotel, known also as ''Union 
Tavern." The original building was erected in 1796 and 
destroyed by fire in 1832. It was rebuilt in 1836. Notable 
guests of the house have included Mr. Murray, the first Brit- 
ish Minister to this country; Louis Philippe, Count Volney, 
Baron von Humboldt, Talleyrand, Jerome Bonaparte, Wash- 
ington Irving and John Randolph. It was a favorite stopping 
place for Congressmen in the early 20's. It has been re- 
modeled in recent years, but a large part of the building still 
dates from 1836. Op'posite, on S. E. cor., Is the site of the 
Old Presbyterian Church, the earliest church built in George- 
town (1783), which stood here until 1879 when it moved into 
a modern edifice on P St. (formerly West St.), and was re- 
christened the West Street Presbyterian Church. 

The first pastor was the Rev. Stephen Bloomer Balch, whose pas- 
torate extended over fifty-three years, until his death in 1833, when all 
the houses in town were draped in mourning, and places of business 
closed. He and his three wives were originally interred in the old 
churchyard, and until recently one of the curiosities pointed out to 
visitors was an old tombstone inscribed to two of them: "Elizabeth 
first, and Elizabeth second." 

Among those who worshipped at this church were; George Wash- 
ington, Thomas Jefferson and Albert Gallatin, all of whom contributed 
to the enlargement of the edifice. 

One square N. on Washington St., at the corner of Gay 
St. (now N St.) formerly stood, facing each other, two 
famous old schools, the Rodger's Classic Academy, and the 
Young Ladies' Seminary, conducted for many years by Aliss 
Lydia English. 

The former numbered among its pupils, Revrrdy Jornson, William 
Wirt and Parke Custis. And it was here that Washington is said to 
have passed a sleepless night trying to console his home-sick step- 
grandson. Among the pupils in Miss English's school were Jessie, 
daughter of Senator Thomas Benton, who later eloped with John C. 
Fremont (p. 133), and Harriet Williams, whose early marriage to 
the middle-a^ed Russian Minister, Baron de Bodisco, was the biggest 
social event in Georgetown annals (p. 470). 



GEORGETOWN 465 

A few doors W. on N St., No. 3017, was the residence 
of Newton W. Baker while Secretary of War. 

Westward from 30th St., on M St., we reach, Nq. 3049. 
the Headquarters of George Washington, a quaint old 2>^- 
story structure, massively built of irregular stone blocks, now 
occupied by a sign painter. 

Here, according to tradition. General Braddock met Georgt Wash- 
ington when, in 1755, he landed in Georgetown. In this same build- 
ing the "Georgetown Blues" were organized by Washington to aid the 
English in the French and Indian Wars. Here, in 1791, were Wash- 
ington's headquarters while surveying the District of Columbia; and 
here also was the office of Major Charles L'Enfant) while making his 
plan of the City of Washington. 

Diagonally opposite, south on Jefferson St., E. side, still 
stands, No. 1047, the house occupied by Thomas Jefferson 
while Secretary of State. A huge advertisement of a popular 
chewing-gum covering the entire N. wall, makes it a conspicu- 
ous object. 

Continuing N. on M St., past 31st St. (formerly Congress St.), 
we reach Wisconsin Ave. (formerly High St.). Here, at N. W. cor., 
George Peabody, the millionaire philanthropist, started in business as 
a clerk in a drug store (see p. 472). 

South from M St. on Wisconsin Ave., at the N. W. cor. 
of the canal bridge, is a small monument commemorating the 
completion of the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal (begun July 
4th, 1828, finished October loth, 1850; Benjamin Wright, chief 
engineer). South of bridge, on E. side of Wisconsin Ave., 
stands the P. E. Grace Church, very nearly marking the site 
of the historic Siller's Tavern, consisting of two low wooden 
buildings with slanting roof and wide porch. It was kept 
by a southerner, John Suter, and later by his widow. Here, 
on March 30th, 1791, the owners of the land comprised with- 
in the original City of Washington, met George Washington 
and vested in tw^o trustees the title to this land. Here also met 
the Commissioners, Gen. Thomas Johnson, Dr. David Stuart 
and Daniel Carroll, September gth, 1791, and agreed that the 
territory selected should be named the "City of W'ashington." 

Historic Cherry Alley (p. 463) may be reached by turning W. 
diagonally opposite Grace church, down a lane through rear gardens, 
theri N. up a steep embankment. All that remains of the old aristocratic 
section is a short row of two-story brick buildings on N. side, occupied 
by negroes. 

^ Continuing W. on M St., we pass No. 3221, the house in 
which Dr. William Thornton (p. 51) resided, 1792-95; it 
is now occupied by a watch-maker's shop. 

Spanning the river to Rosslyn, from the foot of 35th St. is 
the new Francis Scott Key Memorial Bridge, authorized by 
a bill approved May 20, 1916. A^ C.'Wyeth, architect. 



466 RIDER'S WASHIxVGTON 

The Francis Scott Key Home, which formerly stood on 
M St., near Aqueduct Bridge, has been recently demolished 
to make room for the N. end of this memorial bridge. 
Here Key lived, 1808-28; here all his ten children were born. 
From here he began the journey under flag of truce, to ask 
release of a civilian friend confined on the British warship 
Minden. Lord Cockburn had just made plans to attack- Fort 
McHenry, and Kej^ was kept prisoner until after the bom- 
bardment. The fact that; the American flag was still flying 
over the Fort at daybreak was the inspiration of the "Star 
Spangled Banner." 

From Aqueduct Bridge at 36th St., the further bank of 
the canal may be reached, from which a picturesque view 
may be had of Georgetown University on the heights above 
(p. 467). This bridge very nearly marks the site of old 
Georgetown Ferry and the wharves from which richly laden 
vessels used to sail to the Indies. Half a mile W., along the 
canal, is the site of the Foxhall Foundry (p. 202), where the 
cannon for the War of 1812 were made. Of this century- 
old structure some of the foundation walls are still standiing, ; 
on which has been erected a marble slab inscribed with the ■ 
Ten Commandments. \ 

Opposite the bridge, at 36th and M Sts.. is the Georgetown '» 
Union Station, terminus of the Washington and Old Dom- 
inion Railway, and of the various city trolley lines. The : 
station is three stories in height, the upper story facing on | 
Prospect Ave., at top of bluff (reached by stairway of 75 jj 
steps). Opposite, at S. W. cor. of Prospect and 36th Sts., \ 
still stands, though badly weather-beaten. Prospect Cottage, l 
former home of the prolific novelist, Mrs. E. D. E. N. South- 1 
worth. ;i 

East on Prospect Aye., at S. W. cor. of 35th St., is the -I 
stately old Steele-Morris House, now fast going to decay, j; 
Here died in 1875, in the home of his father-in-law, Franklin ' 
Steele, Commodore George Upham Morris, son of Commo- 
dore Charles Morris, and Commanding Officer of the Cum- 
berland, which was sunk with colors flying by the Confed- 
erate ironclad Merrimac "after the most desperate battle ever 
fought on shipboard." In recent years Commodore Morris' | 
widow made an historic fight against the Capital Traction : 
Co.. whose blasting operations for the erection of their 
Union Station threatened the ruin of her home and finally 
compelled her to abandon it. 

Diagonally opposite, on the N. E. cor., stands the Wor- 
thington-Kearney house, dating from the i8th century, and 

.i 



GEORGETOWN COLLEGE 467 

still in fine preservation. It was originally the home of 
Dr. Charles and Dr. Nicholas Worthington, two noted physi- 
cians in the early days of Georgetown. Here, George 
Washington was a not infrequent visitor. Subsequently the 
house came into possession of James Kearney, an Army 
Officer. 

North on 35th St., on W. side, at cor. of N St., is the 
Georgetown University Hospital. Turning W. on N St. 
we pass, at N. E. cor. of 36th St., Trinity (R. C.) Church 
of Georgetown, established 1795. The present edifice was 
erected in 1849-50. In the rear, on N St., the Trinity Paro- 
chial School occupies the site of the original church building. 
Continuing one block N. to O St., then one block W. we 
reach the main entrance to Georgetown College. 

b. Georgetown College 

^Georgetown College (iPl. Ill — Di), constituting one of 
the four great divisions of Georgetown University, is pictur- 
esquely situated on Georgetown Heights overlooking the Poto- 
mac River, in grounds comprising 78 acres, a large part of which 
is occupied by the "Walks", the woodland scenery of which 
has long been locally famous. 

The main gate fronts on 37th St., north of N St, Reached 
by Georgetown cars on either F St. or Pennsylvania Ave. 
lines. Time, about twewnty-five minutes from 9th St. 

History. Georgetown University owes its origin to the Rev. John 
Carroll (later first Archbishop of Baltimore) who, in 1785, formed 
and proposed to his associates a plan to "establish an academy at 
Georgetown, Potowmak River, Maryland," to be opened to students 
of "every Religious Profession." The plan was adopted in 1786 by 
the Corporation of Roman Catholic Clergymen, which at the same time 
directed a sale of a parcel of land to defray the cost of the first school 
building. The erection of this building was begun in 1788; and the 
first students were received in 1791. In 1805 Georgetown College 
was transferred to the Fathers of the Society of Jesus, under whose 
control and direction the University still remains. 

An x^ct of Congress, passed in 18 15, conferred upon the College the 
power of granting any degree in Arts, Science and Liberal profes- 
sions "to which persons are usually admitted in other Colleges or 
Universities in the United States." In 1833 the College received the 
power to confer, in the name of the Holy S-ee, the degrees in Philosophy 
and Theology. In 1842 the institution was formally incorporated. 

Georgetown University at present consists of four de- 
partments, one in Georgetown, and the other three more 
centrally located in Washington. These comprise: i. The 
College (on Georgetown Heights), consisting of three dis- 
tinct departments : a. The Undergraduate School, dating 
from 1791 ; b. The Graduate School, 1856; c. The Astronomi- 



468 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

cal Observatory, founded 1848. 2. The School of Medicine, 
opened 185 1 (p. 149) ; 3. The School of Law, opened 1870 
(p. 140) ; 4. The School of Dental Surgery, opened 1901. 
In 1909 the Seismic Station was added to the Georgetown 
group. Closely associated with the Medical School (H St., 
between 9tli and loth Sts.) is the University Hospital in 
Georgetown, at which most of the clinical instruction is given. 

In 1916 the matriculated students in the University numbered 
1305, distributed as follows: Georgetown College 209; Medical School 
54; Dental School, 118; Law School, 924. Among the students are 
representatives from every state and territory, with the exception of 
New Mexico, Indian Territory, Hawaii and Alaska. The 26 foreign 
students are distributed between 16 countries, including Greece, Brazil, 
China and Japan. 

The College buildings are at present ten in number, Tnost 
of which, including the oldest, the "North Building", have ; 
been ingeniously gathered together into one comprehensive | 
structure surrounding the college quadrangle, and present- \ 
ing an aggregate frontage of nearly 1,200 ft. The exterior : 
of the whole building, as it now stands, is constructed of ' 
a fine variety of Gneiss from the Potomac Valley (erected | 
1877-79). Smithmayer & Pela, architects. j 

Passing through an imposing three-arched gateway, the | 
visitor will first note the large bronze seated statue, heroic j 
size, of Archbishop Carroll, unveiled May 4th, 1912 {Jerome ' 
Connor, sculptor). 

Directly W., behind the statue, is the main entrance to ' 
the College offices and parlors located in the North Pavilion 

of the eastern or Healy Building. The College is not offi- ; 

cially open to the public ; visitors, however, are courteously ' 

received, and a student will usually be assigned to conduct | 

them through the buildings. | 

The parlors contain several works of art. Note espe- | 
cially in S. parlor, *The Calling of St. Matthew, by Luca • 
Giordano; St. Joseph, by Guercino; portrait of the *Rev. John 
Carroll, D.D. (1735-1815), the founder of Georgetown Col- : 
lege, by Gilbert Stuart; also portraits of William Brent, Esq. \ 
of Richland, Stafford Co. ; and of Mrs. Brent, sister of Arch- j! 
bishop Carroll. In the N. parlor is a full length portrait of 
Mrs. Henry S. Lehr, by Muller Ury. 

On the second floor of the N. pavilion is Philndcmic Hall, \ 
devoted to the purposes of the college's leading Dehatincr 
Society. On the walls are a series of portraits and photo- 
graphs of distinguished alumni, beginning in the N. W. corner 
with the College's first student, the Hon. William Gaston ' 



GEORGETOWN COLLEGE 469 

; of North Carolina. It is in his memory that the beautiful 
• Gaston Hall, immediately above Philodemic Hall, on the 
third floor, was named. 

Gaston Hall should not be hurriedly visited. Its architec- 
ture, its windows, its murals and general color scheme are 
all in admirable harmony, and a further interest is added in 
the fact that the interior decorations were all designed and 
executed by a member of the Order, Father Schroen. On 
the W. wall, above the platform, are two interesting murals, 
each consisting of a group of three symbolic figures. In the 
right group is Alma Mater, with Art on her right and Science 
on her left; in left group is Faith, holding a Bible; on her 
right is Morality, on her left Patriotism. Higher up, in 
^ S. W. corner, female figure personifying Mens Sana; in 
N. W. corner, male figure personifying Corpus Sanum. 

On the side and rear walls are inscribed a series of well chosen 
quotations from the world's great writers, appropriate to the ideals 
of an educational institution. The following, copied from the south 
wall, will serve as illustration: Aristotle, "Education and morals make 
the good man, the good statesman, the good ruler." Washington, 
"Learn to keep alive in your heart that little spark of the celestial fire, 

; 'conscience'." Ccrz'antes, "One man is not greater than another unless 
he do greater things." Bourdaloue, ''There is nothing more precious 
than time, for it is the price of Eternity." Plato, "I know of nothing 

i more worthy of a man's ambition than that his son shall be the best of 
men." 

The Coleman Museum, so named in recognition of the 
I many benefactions of James V. Coleman, '69, is also situated 
( in the N. pavilion. The special features of this collection 
■ are its extensive mineral exhibits, including the Langdale 

Collection of minerals found in the District of Columbia. 
! Paleontology is also well represented, and contains an unusual 

number of specimens of fossil vertebrates, chiefly from 

1 Alaska. 

I 

! The Riggs Memorial Library, founded by the late E. 
I Francis Riggs in memory of his father and brother, is situ- 
i ated in the S. pavilion. The University library dates back 
I to the foundation of the college. In 1891 it was transferred 
! to the present Hall, which Mr. Riggs had equipped with a 
I main reading room and with galleries and alcoves affording 

shelf room for 104,000 volumes. The library grew so rapidly 

that, in 191 1, Mr. Riggs furnished an "annex," consisting of 
! a stack 60 x 40 ft., situated beneath the main library, with a 

capacity of 70,000 volumes. In this extension is placed the 
\ collection of Dr. John Gilmary Shea, rich in Americana, 

Ecclesiastical chronicles and works on the American Indian 

languages. 



470 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Other collections included in the library are: i. Hirst Col- 
lection, being the final aggregation of the three libraries of 
the college societies; 2. Morgan Maryland Colonial History 
Library, the important feature of which is a spacious archive 
vault, in which Maryland and District families are invited 
to deposit their ancestoral papers ; 3. Observatory Library, 
located on Observatory Hill, and consisting mainly of works 
on astronomy and mathematics. 

In the reading room of the college library note especially 
the fine old elliptical mahogany table which, according to 
tradition, was used by the Council of Maryland Province 
in the time of Leonard Calvert, the founder of St. Mary's. 

From the library we proceed W. to the Ida M. Ryan Hall. 
the gift of Mrs. Thomas F. Ryan, which contains on the 
ground floor the spacious students' dining room, the W. 
windows of which overlook the Potomac. 

Leaving Ryan Hall by the N. door we cross the quad- 
rangle to the W. side, where stands the Chapel of the Sacred 
Heart, the gift of Mrs. John Vinton Dahlgren, in memory 
of her son, Joseph Drexel Dahlgren. The cornerstone was 
laid by Cardinal Gibbons, May 19th, 1892. The chapel has a 
seating capacity of 500. 

On the N. side of the college quadrangle is the venerable 
structure of the ''Old North Building." Note the many quaint 
portraits of Cardinals and other church dignitaries in the 
main corridor. This building contains the Bcouchamp Hughes 
Art Cabinet, comprising a rare collection of precious laces 
and needle-work, bronzes, china and other objects of art, 
which, for all its interest, seems somewhat out of place in a 
young men's college. 

The North Building opens directly into the hall of the 
N. pavilion, bringing the visitor back to his starting point. 

Returning E. on O St. to 35th St. (formerly Fayette St.), 
then N. to P St., we reach, at N.W. cor., the Convent of the 
Visitation and opposite, the Volta Bureau. (.For both s>c 
below p. 473 and p. 475-) 

North, on W. side of 35th St., stands the Western Hiah 
School, a buff brick structure with a spacious Ionic portico. 
Turning E. one block on Volta Place, then S. two blocks on 
34th St., we reach, at No. 3314 O St., the former home oi 
Baron Bodisco (p. 4/8), still in excellent preservation. Con- 
tinuing E. on O St. we reach, at S. E. cor. of Potomac St. 

The historic St. John's Church (P. E.) and site of the 
old St. John's Churchyard, are situated at the S.E. cor. 0I 
Potomac and O Sts. The old church, much modernized 



GEORGETOWN COLLEGE 471 

together with the comparatively modern Sunday School and 
Church and Church Parlor (on E.), all finished externally 
in stucco or "mastic," now cover practically all the grounds. 
The short hall-way or "cloister" connecting them was added 
in 1915. 

On a granite boulder, in the corner of the lot, is a bronze 
tablet bearing the following inscription : 

"Col. Ninian Beall, b. Scotland 1625, d. Maryland 1677. Patentee 
of the Rock of Dumbarton, Member of the House of Burgesses, Com- 
mander-in-Chief of the Provincial Forces of Maryland. In grateful 
recognition of his services 'upon all incursions and disturbances of 
neighboring Indians,' the Maryland Assembly of 1669 pasised 'an act 
of Gratuity.' This memorial is erected by the Society of Colonial 
Wars in the District of Columbia, 1910." 

I Old St. John's is the third oldest Episcopal church in the 
District of Columbia, being antedated only by St. Paul's 
Rook Creek (p. 436) and Cbrist Church, Navy Yard (p. 406). 

The first services of the little congregation, destined to 
become St. John's Church, were held, beginning in 1794, in 
the Georgetown Presbyterian Church, and were conducted by 
the Rev. Walter D. Addison who, during his "loved pastor- 
ate," became blind. 

I In 1809 the first church building was consecrated by the 
jRt. Rev. Thomas J. Claggett (p. 461), the first Bishop con- 
secrated on American soil. Mr. Addison's successor was the 
Rev. Stephen H. Tyng, who later became famous while 
Rector of St. George's Church, New York City. 
• The church is open daily, and contains some fine me- 
Imorial windows by Meyer Bros, of Munich (in some of 
:he windows the old geometric patterns have not yet been 
-eplaced). 

I Nave, W. side : 2d window\ The Annunciation ; 4th win- 
jiow. The Crucifixion: "It is finished," St. John, xix, 30; 
■^bove are the four Archangels with their attributes. 
'] Nave, E. side: i, (opposite Annunciation window) Mary's 
/isit to Elizabeth and Zachariah : "Blessed art thou among 
ATomen," St. Ltike, i, 42; 2. The Angel at the Tomb: "Wihy 
;eek ye the living among the dead? He is not here but is 
risen," St. Luke, xxiv, 5-6; 3. The Ascension: "Ye men of 
Galilee, why stand ye (gazing up into Heaven?" Acts, i, 11. 
I Immediately S. of this window is a memorial tablet to 
'ohn J. Sayre, the first ordained rector of this church, who 
lied January 6th, 1809, aged 35 years. The verses hereon 
nscribed are by Francis Scott Key, once a vestryman of 
his church. 

Chancel windows (west side): W. Window: (above) 
rhe Sermon on the Mount; (below) L. to R. : Matthew, 



472 RIDER'S WASHINGTON | 

Mark, Luke, John, signed Meyer Bros. N". Window ; (above) j 
The Baptism of Christ by St. John; (below) two panels! 
representing: i. The embarkation of Noah and family on 
the Ark; 2. The Ark on Mt. Ararat. This window is aj 
memorial to Dr. Walter Dulaney Addison, founder of the^ 
church in 1794. |; 

Directly opposite St. John's Church, on the N. side ofj|| 
O St., stands the Curtis School, containing the PeabodyS 
Library. 

When George Peabody, the well known financier and philanthropistJ 
was a young man, he began his business career in Georgetown, asi^ 
clerk in a drug store (p. 465). He later treasured grateful memorie?! 
of the town which had given him his first start: and in 1867 he gavfj 
in trust to William W. Corcoran and four others the sum of $iS,ooc^ 
for the purpose of founding a free public library in Georgetown. 'Ihti 
library was incorporated as the "Peabody Library Association oi 
Georgetown"; but the fund was allowed to accumulate until 1872, whei; 
Edward M. Linthicum added $50,000 for the purpose of a free schoolij 
The library is open evenings, from 6 to 9, except Saturdays am* 
Sundays. Circulating privileges to subscribers only. 

At the next corner O St. fails to cross Wisconsin Ave 
but continues eastward from a point half a block N. Ai 
the S. W. cor. of O St. and 31st (formerly Congress) Sif 
stands 

Christ's Church, organized in 1818, the founders ir 
luding Francis Scott Key, the poet, and Thomas Corcoraf 
the father of William W. Corcoran. The original churc 
edifice was not completed until 1835. It stood until l88< 
when the present structure was erected. The latter is a 
unpretentious but harmonious example of pure Engll 
Gothic. Its chief attraction to the stranger lies in its beau 
tiful stained-glass windows, which have few rivals ^amon 
Washington churches. They are all memorial window 
and were executed by Mayer & Company, of Munich, accoro 
ing to a harmonious plan, and all imported and install 
simultaneously. The church is open daily from 9 A. J 
until 5 P. M. 

The entrance is at the corner, and from the vestibule two doo 
open respectively into the E. aisle and main body of the church. T 
visitor will find it most convenient to enter S. door, continue down 
aisle, through Chantry, and then cross over to W. aisle, leaving i 
spection of the Clerestory for the last. 

East Aisle (N. to S.) : i. "Not my will, but Thine^ 
done" (Luke xxii, 42) ; 2. A. "Simeon came by the Spil 
into the Temple" (Luke n, 27) ; B. "Anna departed not froj 
the Temple" (Lulce ii, 37) ; 3- The Beloved Physician; 4- ( 
Chantry) Triple window : Madonna and Child, between Hoi 



21, 



THE CONVENT OF THE VISITATION 473. 

ind Faith; inscription: "Thou are the King of Glory, O 
Christ!" 

Over Altar' Christ Enthroned; inscription: "He is 
King, as He said, of all Thy Saints." 

West Aisle (S. to N.) : i. A. Resurrection of Jairus's 
Daughter: "She is not dead but sleepeth" {Luke viii, 52); 
B. "I will give thee a Crown of Life'; 2. The Calling of 
fames and John his brother {Matthew iv, 21-22) ; 3.^ The 
Tenturion: "I have not found so great faith, no, not in all 
srael" {Luke vii, 9) ; 4. *"Mary hath chosen that good part 
A^hich shall not be taken away from her"; {Luke x, 42) ; 5. 
\. "The Lord is my Shepherd"; B. "He leadeth me beside the 
Still Waters" {Psalms xxiii, 1-2) ; 6. A. "In the night His 
Song shall be with me" ; B. Boaz and Ruth : "The Lord 
ecompense thy work, under whose wings thou art come to 
rust" {Ruth n, 12). 

North Wall: Large *Te Deuni Window: The central 
iivision shows (above) The Ascension, "Thou has ascended 
HI High." Below are three panels (L. to R.) : i. Adoration 
Df the Magi; 2. Peace through the Blood of the Cross; 3. 
Christ in the Temple. Left Division : A. "Angels came and 
ninistered unto Him" {Maithezv iv, 11) ; B. Sermon on the 
Mount; Right Division: (above) Last Supper {Luke xxii, 
[9); (below) A. "Suffer little Children"; B. The Miracle of 
i:he Blind Man. 

j Clerestory windows' E. side (N. to S.) : i. St. James 
[minor, St. Matthew, St. Thomas ; 2. St. (jabriel, between 
I wo angels; 3. St. James, major, St. John, St. Peter; 4. St. 
Stephen between Dorcas and Lydia. 

j Clerestory, W. side: i. St. Paul, between Luke and 
Vlark; 2. St. Philip, between St. Bartholomew and St. An- 
Irew; 3. St. Michael, between two angelsi; 4. St. Jude, between 
St. Simon and St. Matthew; 5. Miriam, between Moses and 
Karon. 

I c. The Convent of the Visitation 

I The *Convent of the Visitation, the second oldest Con- 
rent for nuns in the United States, is situated on W. side 
|»f 35th St., from P St. to the foot of Volta Place (formerly 
^ St.). The four-storied brick Convent building, with its 
:,Teen-shuttered windows, the Academy of the Visitation (a 
ichool for young girls) and the intervening chapel form a 
'x)ntinuoU'S fagade on the street side. The fagade of the 
I'hapel, brick coated with plaster and painted brown with 
Ian colored trim, has four classic pilasters with Doric capi- 



474 RIDER'S WASHINGTON j 

tals ; above is a Greek pediment. 0\^er the nave rises a squarej 
tower, shuttered and loop-holed, with a quaint balustraded; 
belfry -Spire. A tablet above the main entrance is inscribed 
"Vovete et reddite Domino Deo vostro," Psalm Ixxv, vers.j 
12 ("Vow ye and pay unto the Lord your God"), I 

There are three street entrances, opening respectively intcl 
the Academy, the Chapel and the Convent. The latter, withj 
its spacious vestibule, has such a hospitable appearance tha!t 
tourists not infrequently make the mistake of ringing. Thev 
receive no answer; for those doors never open excepting/ 
when some of the lay sisters go forth on necessary errands! 
or on the rare occasions when outsiders must be admitted {i.e. 
physicians, in case of serious illness, and others under special 
dispensation). For many years no outsiders have been ad- 
mitted even to the Convent grounds, or the Academy, with tht 
exception of parents or guardians of pupils. 

History. The history of this Convent reads almost like a romance! 
Among the nuns driven from France by the Revolution of 1793, wer' 
three belonging to the Order of the Poor Clares, who set up a littll 
convent in Georgetown near the college. Father Neale, later seconc 
Archbishop of Baltimore, was then President of Georgetown College! 
Many years earlier, while toiling as a poor missionary in Georgetown) 
Demerara, he had a vision (so the tradition runs) of St. Jane <1«^ 
Chantel and St. Francis de Sales (the founders of the Order of th 1 
Visitation) who said to him, "You will erect a house of this Order a( 
Georgetown." In the later years of his prosperity Father Neale sti 
remembered his vision. He became especially interested in the spirituJ 
zeal of a certain Miss Alice Lalor, and two of her young friends, wh 
were desirous of taking vows, and for a time boarded and taught wit 
the Poor Clare sisters. The rules of this Order, however, were too aus 
tere, and Father Neale (still obsessed with his vision) bought a hous 
and lot near by and there installed the three American nuns, with Alic 
Lalor (Sister Teresa) as the first Mother Superior. An interesting bi 
of inside history is that, while it was determined in advance that th^ 
newly established Convent should conform to the established rules 
the (3rder of the Visitation, no one at that time in America knew wha 
these rviles were. When conditions in France made possible the returi 
of the Poor Clares, their possessions in Georgetown, including a smal 
library, were taken over by the Visitation Order. By a curious irony o 
fate it happened that none of the Sisters read French, and consequentll 
several years passed before thev discovered that this library container 
a volume minutely describing the rules anid regulations of the Order 
the Visitation, which, incidentally, apprised them that for all those year 
they had been, in many ways, needlessly austere. 

Glimpses of the grounds behind the Convent may be ha< 
from surrounding elevated points. Along the boundaries run 
a line of Pecan trees which, according to tradition, werl 
grown from a pocketful of Pecan nuts given, in 1807, b 
President Jefferson to Mr. Threlkeld, a grandfather of on( 
of the nuns (the Threlkeld family were originally the princl 
pal land owners of this part of Georgetown, and the land 0| 
Georgetown University was acquired from them). 



THE VOLTA BUREAU 475 

Although the visitor cannot enter, it may interest him to know that 
the chapel contains: i. A marblej ailtar, the gift of Charles X. of 
France; 2. A painting of Martha and Mary, also a gift of the King. Be- 
neath tha chapel is a mortuary vaultl containing the tombs of: i. Arch- 
bishop Leonard Neale; 2. His successor, Father Chloriviere; 3. Sister 
Teresa Lalor, the first Mother Superior; 4. Mis^ Yturbide, daughter of 
the Mexican Emperor; also three Sisters, members of the Neale family. 

Within the Convent grounds is a small cemetery containing the 
graves, among others, of: i. Sister Mary Frances (Phoebe Ripley), 
niece of Ralpn Waldo Emerson; 2. Sister Bernard, niece of General 
Graham; 3. Sister Mary Emmanuel (Virginia Scott), daughtei^ of Gen- 
eral Winfield Scott; 4. Sister Stanislaus (one of Georgetown's most 
beloved religieuses), daughter of Commodore Jones, hero of 1812. 

Facing the Convent, at S. E. cor. of Vclta Place, stand's 
No. 1525, a spacious old residence, occupied, from 1881 until 
shortly before his death, by Professor Alexander Melville 
Bell (1819-190S), the inventor of "Visible Speech," which 
has been pronounced as being "one of the world's greatest 
aenefactions, and has given mankind the only possible Uni- 
v^ersal Alphabet." The house is now occupied by the Wash- 
.ngton branch of the Montessori School, Primary Department. 

Opposite, on the N. E. cor. of Volta Place, stands the 
''Volta Bureau, sometimes defined as the "World's Clearing- 
louse of Knowledge concerning the Deaf." The building 
s a small rectangular structure of limestone and buff brick, 
standing upon an elevation approached by some twenty-five 
steps, and in general plan suggests an adaptation of a Grecian 
Femple (Peabody and Stearnes, of Boston, architects). 

On the 3Sth St. fagade are two tablets: i. (on R.) "Volta Bureau 
for the Increase and Diffusion of Knowledge relating to the Deaf; 
2. (on L.) "American Association to promote the Teaching of Speech 
to the Deaf." 

History. The Volta Bureau, founded in 1887, was the outgrowth 
af extensive researches conducted by Alexander Graham Bell, during 
the years 1878-83, to determine the causes of deafness, and its rela- 
tion to the laws of heredity. The Bureau derives both its name and 
endowment from the fact that Dr. Bell received in 1880, from the 
National Institute of France, the award of the Volta Prize, amount- 
ng to 50,000 francs, in recognition of his services to the world in 
nventing the speaking telephone. This prize money, invested in 
aboratory equipment and experiments, resulted in the invention of 
he phonograph-gramophone, which proved such a commercial success 
hat Dr. Bell was able to dispose of his own interest for $100,000, 
A'hich he set aside as an endowment fund for the Volta Bureau. 

The first trustee of the Bureau was Dr. Bell's father. Prof. Alex- 
inder Melville Bell; and its first quarters were at No. 3414 Q St. 
[now Volta Place). The scope of the Bureau, however, increased 
A^ith such unforeseen rapidity that in 1892 plans for the present 
juilding were prepared. The first soil was turned by Miss Helen 
fCeller. The Bureau remained the legal property of its trustee, Pro- 
essor Bell, and his successor, Charles J. Bell, until 1909, when it 
A^as transferred to the American Association to promote the Teaching 
)f Speech to the Deaf, another association founded and endowed, in 
:89o, by Dr. Bell. 



476 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

The Bureau is open daily, except Sundays and Holidays, 
from 8.30 A. M. to 5 P. M. (On Saturdays during June, 
July and August it closes at 12 M.) The main entrance hall 
contains numerous busts and portraits, including paintings, 
crayons and photographs of famous teachers of the deaf. 
The portraits are, for the most part, fully labeled, and the 
visitor is at liberty to study them at his leisure. The present 
Superintendent, Dr. Fred. De Land, is most courteous in 
explaining to strangers the various activities of the Bureau. 

The Bureau possesses a specialized reference library, which in- 
cludes all procurable works on the education of the deaf, and the 
ways and means of ameliorating their condition. The collection in- 
cludes 1720 bound volumes of American and Canadian periodicals, aid 
nearly as many foreign periodicals published for or by the deaf, a 
large percentage being the only copies in existence. It contains also 
over 3000 reports of schools for the deaf; a large collection of photo-!! 
graphs of persons who have labored on behalf of the deaf; and ex-,' 
haustive statistics, including a card catalogue of more than 50,000: 
deaf children admitted into schools for the deaf duriaig 1817-1900. ' 
This library is open to the public for reference. ' 

One of the main activities of the Bureau is the printing and: 
free distribution of many thousands of pamphlets and books contributing! 
to the knowledge of deafness. It also publishes the Volta Record, a 
monthly magazine devoted chiefly to encouraging lip-reading and the' 
home teaching of little deaf children. I| 

' d. Georgetown Heights 

"Georgetown Heights, comprising the high ridge extending alongi 
the northern limits of old Georgetown, between West St. (now P St.)l 
on the south and Rock Creek on the north, was practically all owned ; 
up to 1795, by Thomas Beall, and represented his share of the original; 
"Rock of Dumbarton," inherited from his ancestor Nlnian Beall. 'j 
Within the next two decades the squares cojnposing it had becomel 
distributed by purchase, marriage or inheritance among a few leading 
families of the town, for the most part closely inter-related, and whos5 
individual holdings were squares and multiples of squares. None oi 
these original holdings have remained intact: new streets have been 
cut through; whole sides of the old squares have bten sold off as cit_ 
lots; some of the historic mansions have passed away, leaving no trace; 
others stand half surrounded by solid blocks of modern dwellingSf 
Nevertheless there still survives on the Heights a distinctive atmosphere 
of old traditions and pride of race, which the casual stranger must 
f«el even if he cannot analyze it. 

Turning N. on 31st St. two squares to Q St., we reacfj 
*Tudor Place, the most important surviving private dwelling 
within the present District limits. This estate originalljl 
comprised the entire square bounded by 31st and 32d, Q and 
R Sts. It was purchased from Thomas Beall in 1794 bj 
one Francis Loundes, one of Georgetown's merchants whos* 
shipments of tobacco had made the town an active com( 
mercial centre. In 1805 he sold the square to Thomas Peten 
son of Robert Peter (first Mayor of Georgetown), and hus| 
band of Martha Parke Custis, granddaughter of Marthi 



GEORGETOWN HEIGHTS 477 

Washington. The house, which still stands as originally 
completed, wa,s built by Dr. William Thornton (p. 51) ; the 
wings were erected first (whether during the ownership of 
Loundes or later is not known) ; the central building uniting 
them was paid for by the bequest to Mrs. Peter contained 
in George Washington's will. 

Washington had a deep affection for Mrs. Peter, aivd was a 
frequent visitor at her home. On the occasion of his last visit to 
Washington he spent the night in what was then their city residence on 
K St. (p. 239). 

Mr. Peter had two daughters: i. America, who married William 
George Williams, a graduate of West Point, who became Chief of 
Engineers under Zachary Taylor, and died at the Battle of Monte- 
rey; 2. Britannia, whose first husband was a Wellington, and who 
later married Commander Beverly Kennon. One year later he died 
with the other victims of the explosion on board the Princeton of the 
U. S. N. His widow, born at Tudor Place, inherited the property and 
resided there until her recent death at the age of 96. She was the 
oldest living descendant of Martha Washington. 

Directly S. of Tudor Place still stands the almost equally 
Ad Bowie mansion, which to-day seems a part of the closely 
built-up city block, but which originally occupied the entire 
square S. of O St. 

I Gradually building lots were sold on all four sides of the square; 
jut the rear gardens have remained intact— and they are encircled by a 
':lose-set row of lofty poplars, the tsp^s of which are plainly visible above 
^ihe modern dwellings. 

^j Turning N. on 32d St. (formerly High St.), we pass 
iibetween Tudor Place and the square on L acquired in 1796 
by a certain Thomas Sims Lee, a distinguished Maryland 
patriot, and thereafter always known as "Lee's Hill." The 
lighest portion, at cor. of R St. and Wisconsin Ave., is 
)ccupied by the Georgetown Reservoir, forming part of the 
,::i:ty water system. 

The middle line of R. St. was in 1819 designated by Congress as 
he official northern boundary of Georgetown; and for a large part of 
;he 19th century boundary stones remained standing in the middle 
)f the street. 

At No. 3101 R St., directly north of Tudor Place, stood 
mtil recently The Oaks, formerly known as Monterey, the 
iiecond in im'portance of the surviving historic mansions, with 
ts beautiful grounds extending W. almost to Wisconsin Ave. 
h was built originally by William H. Dorsey who, in 1801, was 
r^ppointed by President Jefferson as the first Judge of the 
Orphans' Court. Dorsey sold out in 1805 to Robert Beverly, 
yho married a sister of Col. John Tayloe of the Octagon 
Touse (p. 209). In 1823 it came into the possession of 
lohii C. Calhoun, who occupied it while Secretary of War 



478 RIDER'S WASHIXGTON 

under Monroe. Here Lafayette was entertained during hi; 
last visit to Washington in 1824. In 1846 the property was 
acquired for $11,000 by Edward Linthicum, one of George- 
town's leading merchants. A modern dwelling is now in 
course of erection. 

The winding roadway which marks the east boundary of The Oaks, 
and known successively as Parrott's Lane, Boyce Lane and Lovers' 
Lane, was first opened in 1900 as far as the Branch, and to this day 
is probably the best known suburban road in the District. Many 
romantic traditions are associated with this picturesque lane. 

Montrose Park, immediately east of Lovers' Lane, is a 
sixteen-acre tract, stretching back to Rock Creek, with its 
fine old woods and a picturesque gorge. In 1804 it was 
acquired by one Richard Parrott, who erected, the stately 
old-fashioned dwelling which until a few years ago was 
one of the neighborhood landmarks. In 1837 it passed into 
the hands of William M. Boyce, whose sister married George^ 
Washington Peter, great-grandson of Martha Washington , 

The estate, known earlier as Parrott's Woods, was re- 
christened "Montrose," from the fact that the Boyces claimecil 
descent from the Earl of Montrose. The property was ac- 
quired by the Government in 191 1, at a cost of $110,000. Th(' 
old house was in such a precarious condition that it had t( 
be demolished. Only the kitchen, which formed the east wini? 
survives, and is used temporarily as a comfort-house. T!k 
straight path running directly North from the site of the 
house is still called the Rope Walk, from having been usee 
for that purpose by the original owner, Parrott. 

The name Parrott's Woods was also erroneously applici 
to the land on the east of Montrose, now occupied by Oat; 
Hill Cemetery (p. 479). 

The square opposite Montrose, on the South side o" 
R St., is an historic site, although no landmark remains tc 
mark it. On the N. W. portion, during the first half of th« 
iQth century stood the housq of Brooke Williams, the wedi' 
ding of whose prettiest daughter, Harriet, a sixteen-year-olcl 
schoolgirl, to Baron de Bodisco, the fift3^-year old Russian 
Minister, was Georgetown's greatest social event. 

The N. E. portion of the square was known as Peter' I' 
Grove, its second owner being David Peter, brother of th 
owner of Tudor Place. The first owner (1798-1908) wa : 
William Craik, son of Dr. James Craik. the physician wht 
accompanied Washington on Braddock's Expedition, ani- 
throughout the War of the Revolution, and attended hir 
during his last illness (p. 495). Much later the place wa 
occupied by Sir John F. Crampton, the British Minister; an- 



OAK HILL CEMETERY 479 

ere Thackeray was entertained during his visit to Washing- 
on. Its next occupant was the French Minister, Count ds 
Sartiges, during whose tenancy the old house was totally 
destroyed by fire. 

The next squarei to the E., between 29th and 30th Sts., 
was the home of Col. George Corbin Washington, great-neph- 
ew of George Washington, and at the time of his death in 
1854, his nearest surviving relative. The dwelling, still stand- 
ing, on the crest of the hill, near the corner of R St., is 
a large, plain two-story brick building, with main entrance on 
the north side. 

Turning S. on 30th St., to Q St., then E. to 28th St., we 
.reach the Rittenhouse Mansion, earlier called "Bellevue," and 
generally regarded as one of the most beautiful surviving 
■specimens of architecture dating back to the opening years of 
.:he 19th century. 

Among its early owners were Joseph Nourse, first Register of 
he Treasury, and Charles Carroll of Bellevue (hence the estate's 

lame). It was here that Mr. Carroll brought Dolly Madison to await 
v^ord from her husband, after she fled from the White House in 1814. 

;.ater the prqiierty passed into the hands of the Rittenhouse family, 

-elatives of David Rittenhouse, the astronomer. The house formerly 
tood directly on the line of Q St. Accordingly when, in 1915, it was 
ecided to open Q St. through to the new Rock Creek Bridge, the 
resent owner had the house removed to the N. side of the new 
treet, where it now _ stands, carefully restored, and with all its 
riginal beauty unimpaired. 

One block S., at the IN. W. cor. of 28th and P Sts., visitors with 
n antiquarian sense should notice a curious old iron fence, with a 
eculiar history. It is made of barrels of old muskets used in the 
Var of i8i2. zMthough disguised by their topping of cast-iron 
mce-heads, their true nature can readily be proved by the small pro? 

• ;ction near the upper end of each barrel, forming the sights of the 
in. 

After the war was over, it was felt that Georgetown deserved some 
;compense for the special services she had rendered. But the Gov- 
nment, feeling too poor to make any expenditure, announced that 
ly citizen of Georgetown was welcome to help himself from the vast 
:rap-heap of iron and steel lying in the Navy Yard. This explains 
jDt only the above fence, but also the presence of the U. S. coat-of- 
lims on the iron-work of many a century-old Georgetown building. 

I e. Oak Hill Cemetery 

j *Oak Hill Cemetery (PI. Ill — JD2), is picturesquely 
tuated in the N. E. section of Georgetown, on the terraced 
ipights sloping down to Rock Creek. It consists of a tract 
I about 25 acres of woodland, half of which, formerly known 
^ Parrott's Woods, was acquired in 1849 by William W. 
brcoran, who incorporated it under its present name, adding 
i endowment of $901,000. The terraced grounds, which have 
stly been recognized as making it one of the most beautiful 



48o RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

cemeteries in America, 'were orignally laid out by a well knowij 
landscape gardener of Baltimore, George F. de la Roche. j 

Reached by cars marked "Georgetown," either on F S^ 
or Pennsylvania Ave. lines, to 30th St.; then walk N. fou: 
or eight blocks respectively to main entrance on R St. Th 
cemetery is open daily from 7 A. M. to sunset; Sundays anc 
National holidays from 8 A. M. to sunset. The rule tha 
none but lot-owners are admitted on Sundays is not enforced 

To the*L. of entrance gate is the Superintendent's Offict; 
where inquiries as to location of graves and monuments wi , 
be courteously answered. Several hours_ can be enjoyabl:| 
passed in this cemetery which, although it has few mausoi 
leums, contains not only the graves of many illustrious Amer 
icans, but also a rich variety of artistic memorial monument'l 
Visitors, however, who have limited time will need the fol; 
lowing specific directions to the special points of interes"; 
since hours may be wasted in search for a single grave. | 

Immediately N. of entrance stands the Monument to th! 
Rt. 'Rev. William Pinckney (1810-88), a life-size standir. 
figure with full canonical robes. Dr. Pinckney (Protestai. 
Episcopal Bishoip of Maryland, and nephew of the great Man, 
land lawyer, William Pinckney) was a life-long friend (• 
Mr. Corcoran, who erected this monument to his memory 

Directly E., conspicuous in a wide stretch of lawn, stanc 
the monument, surmounted by portrait bust of John Howarj 
Payne (1791-1852), author of "Home, Sweet Home." 

Payne was only a temporary sojourner in Washington. He visit', 
the Capital in 1841, seeking some diplomatic or consular appointmer] 
In the temporary absence of Webster, then Secretary of State, who h.j 
conceived a violent prejudice against the poet, the latter's friends si I 
ceeded in having him appointed consul at Tunis. There he remain ; 
until his death in 1852. Thirty years later W. W. Corcoran, who h;; 
known him personally, secured permission to bring his remains ba. 
to his native country, and erected this monument to his memory. , 
the W. lies the original tombstone brought from Tunis, which beai 
a lengthy inscription reading in part: "To the memory of Col. Jo ; 
Howard Payne, twice Consul of the United States of America, trc, 
the City and Kingdom of Tunis." : 

Directly E. of the Payne monument stands the graced 
little chapel, designed by James Renunck, on the Englijj 
Gothic order of the Henry VHI period, and half hidden 1^ 
an overgrowth of ivy from clippings from Melrose Abbe.j 
Northward, approximately at the angle of an equilateral ti; 
angle constructed from the chapel and Payne monuniei | 
lies, prone on the ground, the memorial stone of the R5 
Stephen Balch, for 53 years pastor of the First Presbyteri 
Ohuroh of Georgetown (p. 464). During the war of 1812 : 

i 



OAK HILL CEMETERY 481 

drilled the boys of Georgetown, and he and they took part 
in the Battle of Bladensburg (p. 414). 

To the N. E. of the chapel a pathway with a broken 
series of steps descends from the terrace, leading (at 29th 
step) to the simple stone marking the grave of that prolific 
and once popular novelist, Mrs. E. D. E. N. Southworth 
(p. 466). Around the curve of this terrace towardc the S., 
crowning a circular mound, is a noticeable column of blue- 
gray Swedish granite, with inscription in gold lettering: 

"Sacred to the memory of Alexander de Bodisco, Chamberlain, 
Private Counsellor of His Majesty the Emperor of all the Russias, for 
17 years his Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary to the 
United States. Born at Moscow 18/30 October, 1786; died at George- 
town 11/23 January, 1854." (Note on base: "G. E. Osterholm, Stock- 
holm."). The funeral cortege, according to a Russian custom, followed 
the remains on foot to the grave, an act of devotion which, owing to 
inclement weather, nearly cost his young widow her life. 

The S. side of the cemetery consist of a series of four 
high plateaus with intervening ravines. On the first of these 
plateaus stands the above-mentioned chapel. Following the 
straight path beside the S. fence, we reach the second height 
where, on L., directly opposite the corner S. E. extension 
of the cemetery, is the white granite obelisk marking the 
grave of Edwin M. Stanton (1814-69), Secretary of War 
Under Lincoln. S., opposite adjacent eastern gateway, is a 
stone table-tomb to Samuel Hooper, Representative from 
Massachusetts (d. 1825), Twenty feet E. from Hooper 
grave is thq monument of Napoleon B. Harrison, U. S. N. 
"He commanded the Flag Gunboat of Bailey's Division, lead- 
ing the fleet at the capture of Newi Orleans, April 24-25, 
1862." Immediately S., on a flat, weather-beaten slab, may 
still be read the last tribute to Lorenzo Dow, an eccentric 
itinerant preacher (1777-1834) : "A Christian in the highest 
I style of a man. He is a slave to no sect, takes no private 
road, but looks through nature on to nature's God." 

S. of Dow grave is that of the Rev. Samuel Davis (d. 
1822), first pastor of the historic Foundry Church (p. 202). 

The third monument due N. from Stanton's grave, is a 
broken shaft commemorating Maj. Gen. Jesse Lee Reno (b. 
1823), killed at Battle of Sjouth Mountain, September 14th, 
1862. Halfway down the terraced slope, toward N. E., 
J three simple granite stones and an lona Cross mark respec- 
jtively the graves of James G. Blaine (1830-93), Secretary 
|of State under Benjamin Harrison, his wife, son and daughter. 

I Fifty feet E., at an angle of pathways, is the monument 
I to John A. Joyce, "Poet, Soldier, Philosopher" (1842-1915), 



482 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

author of the well-known lines, "Laugh and the World laughs 
with you, Weep you weep alone." 

The monument is a simple pedestal of gray granite, surmounted 
by a bronze bust of the poet, modeled by Jerome Ccnner (i»75 — )• 
Joyce himself dictated the inscriptions on the stone, which was erected 
several years before his death, and had himself photographed, standing 
beside the bust. 

Following the L. path, beyond the Joyce monument, we 
reach the Memorial to William R. Singleton (1818-1901), 
a prominent Mason in the District. The bronze bust was 
executed by U. S. J. Dunbar. 

Further E., at the N. verge of the third promontory, is 
a simple but sturdy obelisk of pink granite, marking the 
grave of the eminent Professor Joseph Henry, First President 
of the Smithsonian Institute (d. 1878). Nearby, to the S. E., 
a broken mast, with ropes and a draped sail, commemorates 
Rear-Admiral Theodorus Baley, U. S. N. (1805-77). 

Across the ravine and crowning the easternmost height 
is the *Van Ness Mausoleum, designed by George Hadfield, 
after the Temple of Vesta in Rome, and originally placed in 
the grounds of the Church of the Ascension, on 8th St. 

This venerable monument, now sadly in need of repair, 
was erected to the memory of Marcia Van Ness, wife of 
Gen. John P. Van Ness, and only daughter of David Burnes 
(p. xxvii). It was chiefly through her generosity that the 
Church of the Ascension was first established. 

At the extreme opposite, or N. W. corner of the ceme- 
tery, is another conspicuous mausoleum in the form of a 
circular Greek Temple, of white marble, marking the resting 
place of William Wilson Corcoran (1798-1888), his wife 
Louise Morris Corcoran (1818-4; see p.), his daughter 
Louise Corcoran Eustis (1838-67), and her husband George 
Eustis (1828-72). 

Almost due W. from the Corcoran monument stands 
an octagonal shaft erected to the memory of the Hon. John 
H. Eaton (1790-1856), of Tennessee: "was U. S. Senator 
for 18 years, Secretary of War, Governor of the State of 
Florida and Minister to the Court of Madrid." 

The chief interest in this grave is that it also contains the remains 
of General Eaton's widow, the beautiful "Peggy" O'Neale, whose 
romantic and adventurous career have made her one of the mo.";t 
noted of local heroines (p. 217). No monument marks her resting place, 
but her name is indirectly perpetuated on a small headstone, sur- • 
mounted by a lamb. 

''Erected to my Daughter and Granddaughter. I 

M. Eaton." ' 



CABIN JOHN BRIDGE 483 

In former years a little grave unmarked by any stone, 
but surrounded by a circle of Lilies-of -the- Valley, was 
pointed out to visitors as the resting place of an infant son 
of Jefferson Davis. The remains, however, were removed 
to Virginia a number of years ago. 

VIII. Cabin John Bridge and the Great Falls of the 

Potomac 

a. Cabin John Bridge 

Cabm John Bridge (PI III— Di), and Glen Echo Park, 
a summer amusement resort, are reached by trolley without 
change, via the F St., Georgetown Line : cars marked "Cabin 
John Bridge" run at half hour intervals; most conveniently 
taken at cor. of F and 9th Sts., twenty minutes before and ten 
minutes after each hour. Fare to Cabin John, 10 cents. The 
trip may be combined with a visit to Georgetown, in which 
case the visitor takes the Cabin John trolley from the corner 
of 36th St. and Prospect Place (upper level of Georgetown 
Union Station). 

This forms the most attractive of all suburban trolley 
rides around Washington. After leaving Georgetown the 
road steadily rises, skirting the verge of the Palisades of the 
Potomac, with constant picturesque glimpses of the Potomac 
River, and the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal far below on the 
L. About a mile and a half before reaching Glen Echo a 
good view is had of the Little Falls of the Potomac, the 
title of which is misleading as they are not correctly speaking 
falls at all, but a series of picturesque rapids. 

From this point the road runs inland through farming lands until 
Glen Echo Park is reached. This is a sort of miniature Coney Island, 
the attractions including: a Military Band, free open-air moving pic- 
tures, a popular dance hall, a "Gravity Railroad," a "Jolly 
Jigger," a "Derby Racer," "Carrousel," etc. Admission to Park free. 

Half a mile beyond, at the terminal of the line, is the 
*Cabin John Bridge, one of the most noteworthy achieve- 
ments of stone-masonry in the world. It was constructed 
for the purpose of carrying across the deep ravine of Cabin 
John's Run, the acqueduct which furnishes Washington with 
its water supplv from the Potomac River above the Great 
Falls. 

All surveys, projectcs and estimates for the city's water 
system, including Cabin John Bridge, were prepared by 
Captain M. C. Meigs. The actual work was begun in 1857, 
and was supervised by Jefferson Davis, then Secretary of 
War. On December 5th, 1863, the water was turned into 



484 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

the aqueduct, but the Bridge proper was not completed until 
the following year. The present parapet walls constructed 
in 1872-73, are of red sandstone from the quarries at Seneca, 
located about seven miles further N. on the Potomac River. 

Dimensions. Cabin John Bridge is 450 ft. long over all, including 
abutments; a single span of 220 ft. and a rise of 57-26 ft. It is 4.2 ft. 
thidk at the crown, 20.4 ft. wide and carries a brick conduit 9 ft. in 
diameter. The cut stone arcn is of Quincy (Mass.) granite. The 
rubble and spandrels are Seneca sandstone, and the abutments are 
gneiss from Montgomery Co., Maryland. The total cost, including the 
parapet walls, was $254,000. 

On the S. side of the Bridge, about half way up the curve 
of the arch, are two inscriptions. The eastern one reads: 
"Union Arch: Chief Engineer, Captain Montgomery C. 
Meiggs, U. S. Corps of Engineers. Este perpetuum." 

The western inscription reads : "Washington Aque- 
duct, begun A.D. 1853. President of the United States, 
Franklin Pierce; Secretary of War, Jefferson Davis. Build- 
ing finished A.D. 1861. President of the United States 
Abraham Lincoln; Secretary of War, Simon Cameron." At 
the outbreak of the Civil War the name of Jefferson Davis 
was erased from this inscription ; and the space remained 
blank until the name was restored by Act of Congress dur- 
ing the second Roosevelt administration. 

The names Cabin John Bridge and Cabin John Run are 
popularly attributed to a hermit fisherman. Captain, or 
Cabin John, who is said to have formerly lived at the junc- 
tion of Cabin John Run with Bowie Run. Romantic imagi- 
nations have evolved a tradition identifying this obscure her- 
mit as the husband of the "Female Stranger" whose tomb- 
stone in Alexandria (p. 5211) istill stands as a memorial to an 
unsolved mystery. 

b. The Great Falls of the Potomac 

The *Great Falls of the Potomac, the one great phe- 
nomenon of nature within the environs of Washington, is 
situated two miles above the head of tide water^ and fifteen 
miles N. W. of Washington. The river above the Falls is 
143 ft. higher than tide water. The Maryland side of the Falls 
may be reached from Cabin John Bridge by automobile along 
the Conduit Road, built over the Washington Aqueduct. 

The best view of the Great Falls is from the south, or 
Virginia, bank of the Potomac, which is reached with some: 



THE GREAT FALLS OF THE POTOMAC 485 

difficulty from the Maryland side across a chain bridge. The 
simplest route is via the Washmgton and Old Dominion Rail- 
way, Great Falls Division, a trolley line with terminus in 
Georgetown at 36th and M Sts. Round trip is 35 cents. 

The average running time from the terminus is from 45 to 50 
minutes. The average intervals throughout the day are 45 minutes, 
but during the afternoon and evening the cars run somewhat more 
frequently. 

The trolley, after crossing the Aqueduct Bridge, turns 
W. through Rosslyn, Va., and proceeds in a fairly direct line 
through an undulating farming district, barren of interest 
to tourists. Its terminus is in the midst of Great Falls Park, 
situated just at the southern end of the Rapids below the 
Falls, at the point where the Potomac, divided by gigantic 
bowlders in three separate channels, reunites in a churning 
caldron, beyond which it spreads out once again into a broad 
and placid river. 

The trolley terminus in Great Falls Park is only a few 
hundred feet S. of the Falls. The path winds down past the 
Merry-go-round, and crosses the historic *Canal planned and 
supervised by George Washington from 1784 to 1789. 

The idea of the so-called "Washington Canal" was conceived 
shortly after Washington surrendered command of the Federal army. 
He left Mt. Vernon September ist, 1784 (as is shown in his manu- 
script journal), with the intention of visiting his lands in tke Ohio 
valley, in order to discover the shortest and best communication be- 
tween the eastern and western waterways, and to facilitate, so far as 
possible, the inland navigation ot the Potomac. On September 6th 
he examined at Bath a "model of a boat con^^tructed by the ingenious 
Mr. Rumsey." It was this model, "propelled by mechanism and small 
manual assistance against rapid currents," that encouraged Washington 
to undertake the colossal task of constructing a canal around the 
I Falls on the Virginia side. 

On May 7th, 1785, Washington became the first President of the 
Potomac Co., and retained this office until his election as President 
I of the United States. 

I One part of Washington's project was to establish a manufactur- 

! ing city adjoining the locks of the proposed canal at Great Falls. 
, This city which was to be known as Matildaville, was laid out and 
! many of the lots sold, and a few structures built. All that remains 
today are a few ruins and the historic Dicky's, a century-old tavern. 

I Midway to the river, the path crosses the old canal at 
I the point of its present termination, where its waters flow 
, down through the ruined foundations of Washington's Mill. 
North from here to the dam the canal is still in fair pres- 
j ervation, and row-boats may fee hired for a trip upon it 
' (25c. per hour). South of the Mill the canal is dry and partly 
I filled in, although its former course can still be traced. 
j Opposite the Mill, where the lofty bluff overhangs the 
, river, are a series of jutting crags on which a look-out plat- 



486 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

form has been built, commanding the best view of the Falls. 
On the southern face of these rocks is the following bronze 
tablet: 

"In memory of George Washington of Fairfax County, Va. 
Patriot, Pioneer and Man of Affairs, who spent in developing his 
country the life he risked in her defence. This is exemplified in 
the Patowmack Company, incorporated to build the Patowmack Canal 
of which George Washington was first President. Placed by Fairfax 
County Chapter D. A. R." 

The visitor should not fail to see the five *Great Locks 
of the Canal, for they constitute the only surviving examples 
of Washington's engineering skill. They are all situated S. 
of the mill and are reached by following the straight, broad 
path running southward between the dancing pavilion and 
the Great Falls Inn (specialty: Black-Bass-and-Chicken 
Dinner). 

The path terminates at a field, where a sign-post marked "Dicky's" 
points to the historic old farm-house on the right. Crossing this field 
diagonally to the S. W. cor. we pass around a second cottgge and through 
the barnyard behind. Here the path divides, one branch ascending the 
hill on the R., the other dipping down into the hollow on the L.. leading 
to the locks. It is only a five minutes' walk from the farmhouse; but 
the path is hard to follow, winding in and out of thickets, and over and 
under the trunks of fallen trees. 

The first of the five locks is situated one mile from the beginning 
of the canal; the other four follow at intervals of a few hundred feet. 
They are all of practically the same dimensions: loo ft. long by 12 ft. 
wide; and all but the last are constructed of massive blocks of Seneca 
brownstone carefully dressed and fitted. The fifth lock is a cut 50 ft. 
deep, blasted out of the solid rock and piercing the bluff clear to the 
river. Note the century-old iron rings in the rocky walls, once used 
for mooring the canal-boats during passage through the locks. 

The entire descent accomplished by the five locks from 
the level above the Great Falls to that below the Rapids was 
76 ft. At the Little Falls, 3^ miles below, there was for- 
merly another canal, 2j^ miles long, with three locks and a 
descent of 37 ft. to tide-water. The dimensions of both 
canals were: 6 ft. deep and 25 ft. wide. 

The financial decline of the Potomac Company began almost 
simultaneously with the completion of the locks. It was found that 
between the ice of winter, the swollen waters of spring and thi' 
drought of late summer, there were few months when boats could 
come and go in safety. After a quarter of a century the project ol 
using the upper Potomac as a waterway was abandoned, and the 
Potomac Company's Charter and property were, in 1825, transferred 
to the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal Company. 



THE VIRGINIA SUBURBS 

I. Mt. Vernon 

Mount Vernon, the home and burial place of George 
Washington, is situated on the western or Virginia side of 
the Potomac River, si^rfeen miles S. of the National Capital. 
The grounds and Mansion House are open to the public 
daily, except Sundays, as follows : from November ist to 
March 31st, 10 A.M. to 3.15 P.M. (closing hour 4 P.M.) ; 
from April ist to October 31st, 9.30 A.M. to 4.45 P.M. 
(closing hour 5.30 P.M.). Admission fee 25 cents. Refresh- 
ments and light lunches may be obtained outside the grounds, 
near the railway terminal. 

Routes. Mount Vernon may be reached either by all- 
rail or by all-water routes; also by Sight-Seeing Cars (p. 21). 
I. The all-rail route is by the W ashing ton-V-irginia Electric 
Railway (p. 19) from city terminal at 12th St. and Pennsyl- 
vania Ave., via Highway Bridge, Arlington Junction and 
Alexandria (p. 512). Through cars to Mount Vernon run 
approximately once an hour, from 6.20 A.M. to 11. 15 P.M. 
From 9 A.M. to 3 P.M. (the only hours of interest to the 
tourist) the cars leave on the even hour. Round trip, with 
stop-over privileges at Alexandria, 80 cents. Combination 
trip, including Mt. Vernon, Alexandria, Arlington and Ft. 
Myer, 90 cents. 

The cars run W. on C St. and Ohio Ave. ; thence S. on 
14th St., passing (on L.) the gi-eenhouses and offices of the 
Agricultural Department, and (on R.) the Washington 
Monument, and the Bureau of Engraving and Printing. The 
car now curves W\ through Potomac Park and crosses the 
river on the Highway Bridge, which has replaced the 
historic Long Bridge of the Civil War times. From the 
Bridge a fine view is had of the Potomac: and in the 
distance (on R.) the Lincoln Memorial, and on the Virginia 
side, Arlington Heights with the National Cemetery and the 
historic Lee Mansion ; also the Radio Station at Ft. Myer ; 
and (on L.), in the distance, the mouth of the Anacostia 
'River, Congress Heights, and the Government Insane Asylum. 
After crossing the Bridge, note the numerous brick kilns on 
either side 0f the line, the manufacture of bricks and tiles 
beinsf one of the leading local industries. About a mile 
further on we reach Arlington Junction (13 min. from 
Washington), where the cars for Arlington and Falls 



488 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Church division branch off to the R. Not far beyond this 
point we pass the site of Abington, the old colonial home- 
stead, about four miles N. of Alexandria, where John Parke 
Custis lived after his marriage with Eleanor Calvert, and 
where Nellie Custis was born. The line presently crosses 
a long bridge at Four Mile Run (i6 min.), where Wash- 
ington once owned considerable property, and where one of 
his mills was situated. A mile beyond we pass St. Asaph, the 
site of an old race-track: and further S., on the hills to the 
R., are Braddock's Heights, where General Braddock and 
his army encamped before starting on his ill-starred cam- 
paign against the French and Indians at Ft. Duquesne (now 
Pittsburgh), in which the General lost his life, and the 
remnant of his army was saved only through the skill of 
Washington, then a young Colonel of 23 years. 

On the outskirts of Alexandria the line passes the 
Union Station {22 min.), the local station of the Richmond. 
Frederlcksbiirg and Potomac R.R.; and the Washington 
Southern Railway. At Alexandria (30 min.) the visitor 
should certainly stop over for an hour, either going or com- 
ing, because of the numerous historic spots intimately 
connected with Washington (p. 512). Even from the car 
window, however, a few landmarks can be briefly glimpsed : 
as the car -passes E. on King St., the historic Christ Church 
(p. 514), where Washington attended service, h. seen one 
block N. on Columbus St. One block E. the Confederate 
Monument (p. 521) stands conspicuously in the middle of 
Washin^on St., one block S. The Marshall House (p. 521), 
where Col. Ellsworth was assassinated, is passed at the cor. 
of King and Pitt Sts. 

Soon after leaving Alexandria the line crosses a long 
bridge over the broad estuary of Big Hunting Creek. On 
the heights, at the head of the estuary, during the Civil War 
stood Ft. Lyon, one of the most important links in the 
ring of defenses around the Capitol. On the right or N. 
Bank, a short distance W. of Alexandria, is a large brick 
building, the old Episcopal Theological Seminary where both 
Phillips Brooks and Bishop Potter were prepared for the 
ministry. Opposite, off the heights, on the S. side of Big 
Hunting Creek, is Mount Eagle (still standing in 1917''. 
formerly the home of Bryan Fairfax, son of William of 
Belvoir, and half-brother of Lawrence Washington's wife, 
Anne, first mistress of Mt. Vernon. He was for a time 
Rector of Christ Church, Alexandria. Washington was a 
frequent visitor at Alount Eagle, and in his will he remem- 
bered Bryan Fairfax with a bequest of a Bible in three 



MT. VERINON 489 

volumes. On the left or E. side of the- car we command 
an extensive view of the Potomac, with Jones Point Light- 
house: (p. 522) plainly in view at the southernmost point of 
the city of Alexandria. A mile further on may be seen the 
location of Ft. Foote, on the Maryland side of the river. 
From this point onward the line runs through land which 
was formerly the eastern portion of Washington's 8000-acre 
estate. Just beyond Wellington Station is seen, some dis- 
tance to the L., the old white Wellington House, dating from 
1768, and left by Washington's will, together with the adjoin- 
ing farm of 360 acres, to his Secretary, Tobias Lear, for the 
latter's lifetime. From this point a short run, through 
undulating farmlands, brings the visitor to the terminus at 
the North Lodge Gate of the Mt. Vernon grounds. 

Route II. All-water route by steamboat, Charles Mac- 
alester (Mount Vernon and Marshall Hall Steamboat Co., 
limited), sailing from 7th St. wharf (at foot of 7th St.' S.W.) 
daily, except Sundays, as follows : from November 1st to 
April 30th, at 9 A.M. and 1.45 P.M.; from May ist to 
October 31st at 10 A. M. and 2.30 P. M. Dining-room on 
steamer. 

The steamer descends Washington Channel to the mouth 
of the Anacostia River, passing (on R.) East Potomac Park, 
and (on L.) Washington Barracks and the Army War Col- 
lege. To the N. E. is a view of the Anacostia River, with 
Sewage Pumping Plant, and United States Navy Yard on 
L. and on R. Congress Heights, Anacostia and Twining City. 

Conspicuous on Congress Heights is the group of build- 
ings constituting the Government Hospital for the Insane, 
known as St. Elizabeth's, because located on a tract of land 
formerly bearing that name. It has cost upward of $1,000,- 
000, and is reputed to be one of the finest institutions of its 
kind in America. The Administration Building was designed 
by Shepley, Rutan and Cooledge. Insane persons of the 
Army and Navy and U. S. Marine Corps are treated here. 
Among these may be mentioned Lieut. Gushing of Torpedo- 
boat fame, and Captain McGiffin, hero of the Naval battle 
of the Yalu, in the China-Japan war. On a nearby hill is the 
house where Frederick Douglass spent his last years. Gies- 
horo Point, on the Maryland side, just below the Govern- 
ment Hospital and almost opposfte the estuary known as 
Four Mile Run, is a low level stretch of land, used during 
the Civil War as a drilling station and cavalry camp. 
Alexandria and Jones Point Lighthouse are presently passed 
on R. A mile below, on L., we pass Fort Foote, made 



490 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

famous during the Civil War. . Further S., also on the 
Maryland side, diagonally opposite and about a mile north of 
Mount Vernon, is Fort Washington, situated on the former 
site of the Warburton Manor, residence of the Digges 
family. 

"Washington and Digges' had a code of signals between Mount 
Vernon and Warburton, and when the signal went up that there were 
guests on the way the handsome barges which each house) maintained 
shot out from the shores driven by the oars ofi gaily liveried black men, 
and met in midstream to transfer the visitors." (Paul M^ilstach, 
'*Mount Vernon.") 

The site of Fort Washington was recommended by 
Washington himself, and the original plans were drawn by 
L'Enfant, and constituted his last public work. The first 
fortress erected there in 1808 was destroyed in 1814, when 
the British advanced upon the Capital. The present fortifi- 
cations were built in 1898. Facing Fort Washington on the 
Virginia side is Fort Hunt, one of the most up-to-date forti- 
fications in the United States. Both of these forts are 
equipped with exceptionally large calibre and long range 
guns, said to command the river for a distance of twenty 
miles. 

Near Fort Washington is a Fish-hatching Station, main- 
tained by the United States Bureau of Fi'sheries (p. 245). 
Directly opposite Mount Vernon is Marshall Hall, the one- 
time estate of Thomas Hanson Marshall, who served under 
Washington during the War of the Revolution. According 
to tradition this spot was visited by Captain John Smith 
in 1608 ; and here also was the last home of the Indian 
Chief Powhatan. 

The steamer here swings westward to its Mount Vernon 
dock, several hundred feet S. of the Mansion, and nearly 
opposite the new tomb. As the steamer approaches the 
shore, the tourist should take advantage of what is admit- 
tedly the best view of Mount Vernon and the adjacent terri- 
tory. Note especially, to the south, on the west or Virginia 
shore of the Potomac, beyond Dogue Creek, some high- 
lands, constituting the estate of Belvoir, the former home 
of William Fairfax, where George Washington met Thomas, 
Lord Fairfax, who gave him his first employment as a 
surveyor. 

\ The low land south of Belvoir marks the sitei of 

}"^'B4i/nston Hall, the home and burial place of George Mason, 

intimate friend of Washington and author of the Bill of 

Rights and the Constitution of Virginia. 



MT. VERINION 49i 

a. History of Mt. Vernon 

History of Mount Vernon: The title of the Washington 
family to Mount Vernon, early known as the Hunting Creek 
Tract, dates^ from a grant made in 1674 by Lord Culpeper 
to Lieut. -Cdl. John Washington and Col. Nicholas Spencer 
jointly, consisting of 5000 acres "in the Ffreshes of the 
Pottomeek River, and neare opposite to Piscataway, Indian 
towne of Mariland." This Col. Washington, known as John 
the Emigrant, was the first member of the family to come to 
America, and was destined to be remembered in history as the 
great-grandfather of the first President of the United States. 

John Washington arrived in Virginia about 1656, and 
settled on the lower Potomac, some seventy miles below the 
present Capital, on a modest estate subsequently named Wake- 
field. There were born his eldest son, Lawrence and there 
also the latter's eldest son, rVugustine, the first of the family 
to make even a temporary home at Mount Vernon, originally 
known as the "Hunting Creek Tract." Emigrant John be- 
queathed his half interest in the undivided 5000 acres to his 
son Lawrence who, in 1690, thirteen years after his father's 
death, eft'ected a division whereby he retained the eastern 
half, facing on Little Hunting Creek, while the Spencer 
family received the western half, extending along Dogue 
Creek. Lawrence in turn bequeathed his 2500 acres to his 
daughter, Mildred, who, in 1726, by a deed executed jointly 
by herself and her husband, Roger Gregory, sold her title to 
her brother, Augustine, the father of George Washington. 
Some years later, conjecturally in 1735, Augustine moved up 
the river, erected the first dwelling house on the Mount 
Vernon site, and there established his family, consisting of 
his second wife, Mary, and four children by her, namely : 
George, Elizabeth, Samuel and John Augustine. Charles, 
the youngest child, was born in the new home. The two 
older sons by his first marriage, Lawrence and Augustine, 
probably had already gone to England, where they were to 
receive their education. 

George Washington was at this time less than four yeara 
old; consequently this was the earliest of his several child- 
hood homes that remained in his memory, and undoubtedly 
his life-long afifection for Mount Vernon began then. It was 
here that the more or less apochryphal episode of the hatchet 
and cherry tree is reputed to have taken place. 

The location of the house erected by Augustine Wash- 
ington is not known, but a favorite conjecture is that it occu- 
pied the site of the present Mansion; and supporters of this 



492 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

theory claim that the crumbling condition oi the cellar walls 
would be best explained by exposure to the Uitense heat inci- 
dent to the burning oi Augustine's house, completely de- 
stroyed in 1739. , 

Instead of rebuilding, Augustine removed at once to 
another of his several properties, located near Fredericks- 
burg. The Hunting Creek Tract was subsequently deeded, 
October 28th, 1740, to his oldest son, Lawrence, a gram 
further conhrmed by his will in 1743. 

When Lawrence took possession of his estate in 1740, he 
found abundant cabins for the slaves and shelters for the 
live-stock; but the only buildings of any importance that 
conjecturally date back to this time were: i. The historic 
old mill at the head of Dogue Creek, which survived nearly 
to the time of the Civil War; 2. The venerable brick barn 
on the mount overlooking the river, which still stands in 
excellent preservation. 

Lawrence, at the age of twenty-two, had little inclination 
to settle down. England was then disciplining the Spanish 
West Indies; and he obtained a captain's commission, and 
served for two years under Admiral Vernon, after whom he 
subsequently re-named his estate Mount Vernon. In 1743 
his roving days were ended by his marriage with Anne, the 
elder daughter of his neighbor, William Fairfax of Belvoir, 
situated on the other side of Dogue Creek. Four children 
were born of this marriage, all of whom died in infancy. 
Consequently the lonely couple were glad to encourage 
Lawrence's young brother, George, then a lad in his teens, 
to pay frequent visits, and in 1747 he came to Mount Vernon 
as his permanent home. 

The original or central part of the Mansion, whether 
erected by Augustus for his son, or by the latter (as is 
indicated by the initials "L. W." carved on the corner-stone 
formerly in the cellar), is supposed to have been built in 
the early 40's. It was but two stories high, and barely half 
its present length, consisting only of the central hallway, 
the four rooms opening off of it on the ground floor, and 
the five bed-rooms opening off of it on the second floor. 
The library and banquet-hall w-ings, the curving colonnades 
at each end of the portico on the river front, the third story 
and cupola, were all later additions, erected during the first 
years of the Revolution. 

After a winter in Bermuda, whither he was sent in a 
vain hope of recovering his failing health, Lawrence returned 
to Alount Vernon in time to die under his own roof. July 
26th, 1752. In his will he left Mount Vernon to his infant 
daughter Sarah, with a life interest to his wife Anne, but 



,MT. VERNON 493 

provided further that in case Sarah died without issue the 
estate should pass to his brother George. Sarah survived 
her father barely two months; and Anne, findnig the house 
haunted by raany painful memories, w^as glad to return to 
Belvoir, and having soon afterward re-married, sold out her 
life interest to her brother-in-law. 

For the next seven years Mount Vernon saw compara- 
tively little of its new master, who was laying the founda- 
tions of hiis: military fame. It is not definitely known 
whether during this period he took any steps toward intro- 
ducing the wonderful order and system which later made 
Mount Vernon a model estate. An event of crucial itnport- 
ance, however, was his marriage to Martha Dandridge Custis, 
January 6th, 1759. In preparation for the arrival of its 
new mistress, the Mansion was extensively renovated and 
raised upon new foundations, for which 15,000 bricks were 
burned on the place, the windows were reglazed, the roof 
reshingled and new floors laid in several rooms. 

Washington now settled down to the busy and health- 
I ful life of a country gentleman, — a life which he infinitely 
I preferred to that of the army or of statesmanship. For the 
! next sixteen years he devoted himself heart and soul to the 
! expansion and development of Mount Vernon, acquiring ad- 
jacent tracts one by one, until he had not only recovered all 
of the original 5000 acres included in the Washington-Spencer 
I grant, but other tracts to the N.W. and to E. beyond Little 
j Hunting Creek, which brought his total holdings up to 
,'j approximately 8000 acres. 

Although Washington's marriage remained childless there 
Ji was no lack of young life at Mount Vernon, for with his 
wife he brought to Mount Vernon her two children by her 
i former marriage, Martha and John Parke Custis. Fourteen 
ij years later both of these were lost to Mount Vernon within 
1 a space of six months, Martha having died in the summer 
j of 1773, while in the following February John was married 
i to Eleanor Calvert of Mount Airy, and settled at Abington, 
]\ four miles above Alexandria (p. 488). It vv^as this same 
j year, perhaps in order to take his mind off of the new 
' loneliness. Washington busied himself with plans for enlarg- 
! ing the Mansion to its present proportions. The changes 
, included an increase of 44 ft. in the length of the house 
ij through additions at each end measuring the full width of 
1 the original edifice, 32 x 22 ft. The building operations 
I were begun in the fall of I773, and at least one of the new 
I additions was completed in 1775. Meanwhile, the outbreak 
I' of the war took Washington from Mount Vernon, and the 



494 RIDER'S WASHIXGTOX 

work on the building lagged. It was completed, however, 
in 1778, including the curving colonnades and the lofty- 
portico. After the close of the war Washington enjoyed 
another grateful respite of five years from public life, dur- 
ing which time he was seldom many miles from Mount Ver- 
non. It was during these years that he devoted himself 
especially to the final decoration and embellishment of the 
estate. From this period date the Deer Park, the "ha-ha" 
walls, the great enclosed two-acre lawn on the W. side of the 
Mansion, surrounded by a carriage drive, which Washington 
called his Serpentine Road; and the two walled gardens 
devoted respectively to vegetables and flowers. 

During this period also the old Mansion once more 
echoed children's voices and laughter. John Parke Custis 
died in the fall of 1781, leaving three daughters and a son. 
The youngest girl, Eleanor, and the boy. George Washington 
Custis, were adopted by Washington, and until his death 
Mount Vernon was their home. 

The choice of Washington as the nation's first President 
once more necessitated a prolonged absence from Mount 
Vernon, to which he bid farewell April i6th, 1789. During 
the eight years of his two terms he was able to make only 
fifteen comparatively brief visits to his estate, amounting 
collectively to 434 days, or a little more than fourteen months 
altogether. He managed, however, through weekly reports to 
maintain a precise knowledge of all the details of what was 
happening at home, and directed at long distance the planting 
and harvesting of his crops, the necessary building and re- 
pairs, and the engaging, discharging and disciplining of his 
servants and slaves. With all the cares of public office he 
found time to plan and erect several new and important build- 
ings, including a sixteen-sided barn of his own invention on 
Dogue Run farm. 

On April ist, 1798, Washington, rejoicing in his release 
from the long strain of public service, arrived once more at 
Mount Vernon for his last brief residence of less than two 
years. Life at the Mansion had never been gayer than at 
this time. Young Custis was away most of the time at 
college ; but his sister Nellie, who had developed into a 
beautiful young woman verging upon twenty, was constantly 
surrounded by a large circle of cousins and friends. It was 
at this time, under the approving eyes of the General and 
Mrs. Washington, that her inevitable romance ran its course ; 
and on February 22d, 1799, she was married in the Mansion 
"about candle-light," to Lawrence Lewis, the son of Wash- 



MT. VERNION 495 

ington's sister Betty. It was also at Mount Vernon that her 
first and second children were born, the elder on November 
27th, 1799. 

Early in December Washington pointed out to Lawrence 
Lewis the spot where he intended to build a new burial vault 
to replace the older one which had been built soon after the 
death of his brother Lawrence, and which had begun to dis- 
integrate. This, he said, was to be the next improvement he 
would make, adding, "for after all, I may require it before 
the rest." On December 12th, during his customary ride 
over his farms, Washington was overtaken by a storm of 
mingled snow, hail and sleet. He seemed the next day none 
the worse for his drenching beyond a slight cold, for which 
he refused to take remedies. Early the following morning, 
however (Saturday, December 14th), he awoke, realizing that 
he was seriously ill. Dr. Craik and Dr. Dick of Alexandria, 
and Dr. Brown of Port Tobacco, were summoned, and diag- 
nosed his malady as what was then called quinsey. He died 
shortly after 10 o'clock P. M. On Wednesday, December i8th, 
he was buried with Masonic ceremonials in the old family 
vault. 

In accordance with the custom of the time Washington's 

ibed-chamber was closed, and his widow moved to a room 

directly above it, on the third floor, from the dormer window 

of which she could look out upon his tomb. She survived 

' him but little more than two years, passing away May 22d, 

1 1802. 

By the General's will his estate was to be kept intact for 

the use of Martha Washington during her life. With her 

death began the breaking up of the large property which 

he had so industriously accumulated. To Bushrod Washing- 

1 ton, son of his brother, John Augustine, he left the main 

I tract of upward of 4000 acres, lying between Little Hunting 

j Creek and Dogue Creek, and including the Mansion House. 

j The River farm of approximately 2000 acres, situated E. of 

j Little Hunting Creek, he left to the two sons of George 

1 Augustine Washington, son of his youngest brother, Charles. 

I The balance of the estate, some 2000 acres on the N. W. side, 

j he bequeathed to Lawrence Lewis. 

I Buishrod Washington was master of Mount Vernon for 

j twenty-'seven years, dying* Noveimber 26th, 1829. By Lis will 
*\ his share of the oiriginal estate was further sub-divided among 
I his nephews and a niece, the portion containing the Mansion 
going to John Augustine Washington, third child of his 
: brother Corhin, who, dying three years later, left it to his 



496 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Avidow, Jane. It was during John Augustine's brief tenure, 
in 1831, that the General's expressed desire to have a new 
family vault erected, was at last fulfilled. Upon the marriage, 
in 1843, of their eldest son, also named John Augustine, his 
mother retired to another property in Jefferson Co., leaving 
him in full possession of iMount Vernon^ which in 1850 she 
conveyed to him by deed of gift, thus making him, as it 
subsequently proved, the last of his name to own the historic 
Mansion. 

Mount Vernon was at this time in a ruinous state of 
dilapidation, and its new owner lacked the funds required for 
repairs. Nevertheless his reverence for the traditions of the 
place was such that he many times refused large sums offered 
by speculators, being determined to sell only to the National 
Government or to the State of Virginia. In fact he offered 
the property to both Governments at their own price, but in 
both cases met with refusal. 

The problem was finally solved through the initiative of 
a patriotic daughter of South Carolina, Miss Ann Pamela 
Cunningham, founder and first Regent of the Mount Vernon 
Ladies' Association of the Union. The purpose of this Asso- 
ciation, incorporated March i6th, 1856, was to raise funds 
for the purchase and restoration of the Mansion House, and 
thereafter to maintain it in perpetuity. Their first act was 
to obtain from Mr. Washington a contract for the sale of 
the Mansion, including 202 surrounding acres, for $200,000, 
the time-limit for final payment being four years. 

A campaign for funds, on a ba&is of dollar contributions, 
was instituted throughout the country, and a large portion of 
the money was collected in small amounts. A conspicuous 
exception, and the largest single donation received, was the 
fund raised by the Hon. Edward Everett of Massachusetts, in 
the course of four years, through public lectures and mag- 
azine articles, amounting altogether to upward of $68,000. 
The final payment was made in December, 1859, and the Asso- 
ciation took formal possession February 22d, i860. 

The work of restoration, which was pushed rapidly during 
the ensuing weeks, was abruptly halted by the Civil War. 
It is an interesting fact that throughout the war Mount Vernon 
was treated by the soldiers of both armies as neutral ground, 
and the Blues and the Grays both obeyed the request to leave 
their arms outside, and met without hostility beside Wash- 
ington's grave. 

For twenty years after the war little was done in the 
way of restoration, the society finding that its available funds 
barely sufficed to arrest the progress of decay. Since 1886, 



MT. VERNON 497 

however, the restoration of buildings and grounds to their 
original condition has been accomplished with thoroughness 
and success. The hoard of Vice-Regents apportioned the 
work among their several states so that each room in the 
Mansion House is in the care of one particular state. The 
summer-house, S. of the Mansion, was rebuilt in 1886, with 
money raised by the school children of Louisiana. The old 
tomb was restored in 1887, by contributions from the State 
of Michigan. The concrete sea-wall and wharf-house were 
given in 1891 by the late Mrs. Phoebe A. Hearst of California. 
The iNorth Lodge Gates were erected in 1892 by "patriotic 
citizens of Texas." The original brick garden walls, screen 
walls and "ha-ha" walls have at last all been restored, and in 
some cases largely rebuilt : the 'North "ha-ha" wall in 1896, 
the South in 1910 and the West in 1915. The latest restora- 
tions of the Mansion itself were the reshingling of the roof 
in 1913, and the repaving of the portico in 1914. After a 
protracted search the source of the original sandstone blocks, 
laid by VVashingtoii at the close of the Revolutionary War, 
was at last discovered. They were from an ancient quarry 
on the estate of Lord Lonsdale, near Whiting, England, and 
a new supply of blocks was obtained for the work of re- 
storation. 

The holdings of the Association now amount to 2y]V2 
acres, thanks to la 33-acre tract presented, in 1887, by jay 
Gould of New York City, who acquired the tract in question 
on the N. side of the Mansion, to defeat a proposed plan for 
desecrating it by the establishment of an amusement park. 

Visitors arriving at Mount Vernon by the electric railway 
enter the grounds through the North Lodge Gates, which 
while harmonizing with the general spirit and architectural 
detail of their surroundings, are wholly new, having been 
erected in 1892 by the 'Masons and other patriotic citizens of 
Texas. Following the main driveway, we approach the 
! Mansion House from the W., skirting the two-acre expanse 
' of shield-shaped lawn, surrounded by what Washington him- 
j self named his "Serpentine Road," and ending in a circle, in 
I the centre of which is a Sun Dial (gift, ini 1888, of the citi- 
, zens of Rhode Island, to replace the one with which Wash- 
ington daily compared his watch). Fronting on this circle 
and half enclosing it stands the Mansion House, with its curv- 
ing colonnades extending to the Lodgings for White Servants 
on the L. and to the Kjtchen and Servants' Hall on the R. 
I Parallel with the Mansion and in direct line with the Sun 
' Dial are the North and South Lanes, the former passing: 
(on W.) a. The Tailor and Shoemaker Shop; b. C!ar- 



498 RIDER'S WASHINiGTON 

PENTER Shop; c. Spinning House ; d. (on E.) Blacksmith 
Shop; the latter passing: (on W.) a. Store House; b. Smoke 
House; c. Wash House; d. Coach House; e. Old Brick 
Stable. Visitors arriving by steamboat land at the pier at 
the southerly portion of the grounds and approach the house 
along this same iSouth Lane. 

b. The Mansion House 

Main Floor, Central Hall, On the W. fagade is a 
large central door, with original brass knocker, which opens 
into a spacious Central Hall (10x30 ft.), with stairs ascend- 
ing in S. W. cor., and doors opening on S. side into Sitting 
Room and Family Dining Room, and on N. side into the 
West Parlor and Music Room. This hall contains, on S. wall, 
in crystal case, the '^^Key of the Bastille (of wrought iron, 
7 in. long), sent by Lafayette to Washington after capture ot 
the Bastille, together with the model of that prison now in 
the Banquet Hall. Below it hangs a facsimile of Lafayette's 
agreement to serve in the American Army. On the N, wall 
hang four of Washington's swords: i. The sword used dur- 
ing the Braddock campaign;* 2. His dress sword, worn at 
his Annapolis resignation, on his inauguration as President in 
New York, and on other state occasions; 3. His dress sword, 
with Latin inscription signifying "Do What is Right," and 
"Fear no Man" ; 4. A Prussian sword made and presented 
to Washington by one Thcophilns Alt, a famous sword maker 
of Solingen. From the ceiling hangs the old crystal and 
w rought-iron lantern which according to tradition was given 
to Lawrence Washington by Admiral Vernon. Nearby is the 
original deed given by Lord Culpeper to Nicholas Spencer 
and John Washington for the tract on which Mount Vernon 
now stands. Reached through the N. E, door is the — 

East Parlor or Music Room. (17x11 ft.). Contains 
the Harpsichord which Washington imported from London 
for Nelly Custis ; Washington's rosewood flute ; two of Wash- 
ington's chairs, and the famous Hoitdon biust. The cabinet 
in N. E. cor. contains several pieces of original tableware. 
"Washington's spectacles, green goggles, cane, etc. Alost of 
the furniture consists of reproductions. 

The N. W. door to the Main Hall opens into the — 

West Parlor (17x17 ft.). This room is. as nearly as 
possible, a restoration of the original. Alwve the mantel, at ' 
N. E. cor., is carved the Washington Coat-of-arms, and his 
crest and initials are cast in the iron fireback. The old paint- 
ing above the mantel, supposed to depict part of Admiral 



MT. VERNON 499 

Vernon's fleet at Carthagena, was given to Lawrence Wash- 
ington iby the Admiral in 1743. The circular rug of dark 
green with American Eagle in centre, was made for Wash- 
ington by order of Louis XVI of France. Several chairs in 
this room belonged to Washington, including one in brown 
and gold, and a white enamel cliair upholstered with satin 
brocade from Lafayette's hirthplace, the Chateau de 
Chavagniac. 

Directly opposite the West Parlor, across the Hall, we 
reach, through S. W. door the — 

Family Dining Room (17 x 15 ft.). The original articles 
in this room include: A Chippendale Sideboard (presented 
to the Association by Mrs. Robert E. Lee) ; a sixteen-gallon 
Wine Chest, and four Wine Decanters, a pair of pitchers and 
a portrait of David Rittenhouse. The ornamented fireback 
from Belvoir, country seat of Lord Fairfax, Washington's 
early friend and patron. The china in corner cupboard is a 
reproduction of set presented to Martha Washington by officers 
of the French fleet in 1792. The portraits on wall include 
Generals Marion, Pickens, Sumter and Moultrie, and Baron 
De Kalb. 

East of the Dining Room is Mrs. Washington's Sitting 
Room (earlier Washington's study or library). It contains a 
mirror and card tahle belonging to the Washingtons ; also 
four prints w^hich hung here in Washington's time : ^ "The 
Siege," two representing "The Defense," and "The Relief of 
Gibraltar." A mahogany chair presented to Washington by 
Lafayette is also here. 

Since these rooms are all railed off, either wholly or in 
part (allowing ingress only far enough to inspect objects in 
some corner cabinet), visitors must pass out-doors in order 
to reach the rooms in the N. and S. wings — taking this op- 
portunity to inspect the stately eight-columned portico on the 
! river side, and to enjoy the magnificent view of the Potomac 
i River. 

I The *Banquet Hall in the N. wing (30 x 22 ft.) con- 

1 tains the one complete group in the whole Mansion placed 

1 today exactly as in Washington's time. Here, on S. wall, is 

I the mantelpiece of Carrara and Siena marble, presented to 

'Washington by Samuel Vaughan of London. On the mantel 

stand the original rosewood pedestals, clock, candlesticks and 

vases, and over it are the original wall lamps. Within the 

fireplace are the identical firedogs presented by Lafayette. 

I On the mahogany claw-foot dining table (similar in design 

jto the original) is the identical plateau of mirror-glass and 

1 silver used by Washington on state occasions. The Banquet 



500 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Room is a veritable museum of Washingtoniana — and as else- 
where in the Mansion all objects are fully labelled. Here i§ 
the model of the Bastille, carved from one of the stones of 
its prison walls, and sent by Lafayette, together with the 
Bastille key (p. 498) ; here also is a painting, by Beck, of the 
Great Falls of the Potomac (where Washington built an iron 
foundry and started his abortive plans for a canal). In the 
relic cabinet are Washington's punch bowl, his gold watch 
and silver spectacles, the needle-book which he used at Valley 
Forge ; also various silver spoons, champagne glasses, silver 
toilet articles and locks of General and Mrs. Washington's 
hair. The relics in this room also include Mrs. Washington's 
needle-book, her carved and painted ivory fan, some old point 
lace worn by her, and several letters written by her to Nellie 
Custis. 

The Library (one of the rooms added by George Wash- 
ington) was designed for his study, and the bookcases are 
built into the walls. Very few of the original books are now 
on the shelves ; the others have been, so far as possible, re- 
placed with duplicates. When Bushrod Washington's heirs, 
in 1848, offered for sale the bulk of their grand-uncle's library, 
a group of patriotic Americans rescued it from a prospective 
English purchaser and presented the books to the Boston 
Atheneum, where they still remain. 

"The inventory of books in Washington's library . . . does not 
furnish satisfactory Tnaterial foir a study of Washing-ton's taste in 
reading, for the books represent his selection only in i>art. ... It 
is interesting to observe that the books on all other than agricultural 
topics were in the cases behind glass. The books on farming, however, 
were 'on the table,* where the General could reach them handily. Thi< 
subject formed the principal and almost the only topic of his reading/" 
— Paul Wilstach, "Mount Vernon." 

The Second Floor contains the following rooms : the so- 
called Lafayette Room and the River Room, on N. of Central 
Hall; Nellie Cnstis' Room and the Guest Room, on S. side of 
the Hall ; and George Washington's Bed-Chamber, in S. wing, 
reached directly by stairway from his library. The cab'net 
in the Upper Hall contains several Washington relics, includ- 
ing his surveying compass, spyglass, telescope, leather fire 
buckets and an ivory headed cane, the gift of Louis XVI. 

In Nellie Custis' Room is a quaint old-fashioned high 
bed reached by carpeted steps ; and all the furnishings, includ- 
ing the brass handled! chest of drawers, are of the period. 
One of the chairs and the folding washstand were originally 
in the home of Charles Carroll of Carrollton, "suspected of 
sentimental intentions in regard to Nellie Custis." A framed 
autograph letter of Lawrence Lewis hangs above the mantel. 



MT. VERNON 501 

Lafayette's Room owes its name to having once been 
occupied by Lafayette. The room contains several engravings, 
including copies of portraits of Washington (the Lansdowne 
Stuart), of Martha Washington, by Wallaston, and of 
Lafayette, by Ary Sheffer. 

The * Washington Bed Chamber is of special historic 
interest, for it contains the identical bed upon which George 
Washington died, occupying its original position. Here also 
is the chair on which, at the moment of his death, lay the 
Bible from which Mrs. Washington had been readingi to him. 
The remaining furniture also is all original : the mahogany 
table; the haircloth coach chest, bearing date 1775, and initials 
'^G. W." ; also a large chair once belonging to Washington's 
mother. 

Mrs. Washington's Room. After the General's death 
Mrs. W^ashington closed his bed chamber and moved to one on 
the third floor, directly over the one she had occupied with 
her husband, because from its dormer window she could look 
upon his tomb. This room she continued to occupy until her 
death on May 22, 1802. The furniture in this room includes : 
the original washstand, dressing glass, tea-stand owned by 
Mrs. Washington, and a Washington desk and chair. 

The Kitchen, reached through the southernmost of the 
curved and colonnaded passages dating from 1778, still has 
the original great fireplace and well-preserved brick oven. The 
most interesting feature of the fireplace is the "smoke-jack," 
a slender belt chain running over a flanged w^heel at the end 
of the spit, and operated by a circular fan in the chimney, kept 
in motion by the draft. 

c. The Grounds 

The present quiet row of neat white little buildings that 
line the North and South Lanes give little suggestion of the 
j activity which they formerly witnessed: 

!"Niear the big house grew up little houses of all sorts. In one the 
shuttle bobbed back and forth through the great loom; in another 
buzzed a whole battery of spinning wheels. In one year at Mount 
Vernon a man and four girls wove . . . ai total of 1365 1/2 yards (of 
linen, woolen, linsey and cotton). . . . Across the lawn the laundry 
irang with the music of washboard and mangle. Its neighbor, the dairy, 
was scarcely less active with the gallons of milk to skim, the butter to. 
I churn and the cheese to iprepare. A nearby smokehouse . . . was 
i the one quiet house in the group." — Paul WiUtach, "Mount Vernon." 

1 Following the South Lane from beyond the kitchen, we 
',pass successively the Smoke House, the Wash House, the Old 
[Coach House, containing an oldtime chaise, which according 
ito tradition was used by Washington; and just beyond is 
the Barn, the oldest building at Mount Vernon, said to have 



502 RIDER'S WASHIN'GTON 

been erected by Washington's father in 1733. Further S., 
between the lane and river is — 

The Old Tomb, within a square enclosure, surrounded by 
a low brick wall, surmounted by a high iron picket fence. 

This is the tomb built by George Washington (in 1752) in fulfil- 
ment of the directions in the will of his brother Lawrence, "that a 
proper vault, for interment, may be made on my home plantation, 
wherein my remains together with my three children may be decently 
placed." The vault was built of brick and sandstone, and is sunken 
into the green bank so as to seem part of the hillside. For nearly 100 
years it held the remains of all members of the family who died at 
Mount Vernon. At the time of the General's death the opening of the 
old vault was closed with a brick wall, which had to be torn away, and 
by Mrs. Washington's direction, was replaced by a wooden door, for 
she said prophetically, "It will soon be necessary to open/ it again." 

After the interment of Martha Washington, the old tomb suc- 
cessively received the remains of Judge Bushrod Washington, in Nov., 
1829, and of his wife, who survived him a few days only; also of John 
Augustine Washington, who died in 1832, after barely two years' ; 
ownership of the estate. 1 

By this time the old tomb, overgrown withj vigorous trees which \ 
doomed it to perpetual dampness and drove thedr destructive roots 
through its roof and walls, had fallen into sad decay; and the wooden 
casings of the General's leaden casket had been three times destroyed. 
It was not, however, until an abortive attempt was made, about 1830, 
to steal the body of Washington from the tomb, that Lawrence Lewis 
and G. W. P. Custis, surviving executors under the General's will, took 
steps to carry out his wish as expressed in the following clause: j 

"The family Vault at Mount Vernon requiring repairs, and being | 
improperly situated besides, I desire that a new one of Brick and upon I 
a larger scale, may be built at the fooli of what is commonly called the j 
vinej^rd enclosure . . . in which my remains, with those of my f 
deceased relatives (now in the Old Vault), and such others of my family 
as may choose to be entombed there, may be deposited." 

In 1 83 1 the new tomb was conipleted, and the remains of all 
deceased members of Washington family were transferred to it from ^ 
the old vault. iFrom that time the old tomb was abandoned and allowed :j 
to decay; until, in 1887, it was reclaimed by contributions from the' 
State of Michigan. The capstone, inscribed "Washington Family," ; 
long missing, was rediscovered, serving as a carriage block at Wood- 1 
lawn Mansion (the home of Lawrence and Eleanor Lewis), and restored J 
to its former^ place. ' 

The New Tomb stands, as directed by Washington's will,' 
at the foot of the Vineyard Enclosure, and immediately ati 
the head of the path leading from the steamboat landing. Itsif] 
small dimensions and modest brick design also accord withi 
Washington's desires. The rear portion, extending into the'i 
bank, and enclosed by iron doors, contains the remains of 
Major LaiiTcnce Lezvis (d. 1839), Judge Bushrod Washington)'' 
(d. 1829), his wife, Ann Washington (d. 1829), John Augustine. 
Washington (d. 1832), his sister, Mary Lee Herbert (d. 1852)' 
and his wife, Jane C. Washington (d! 1855), after which, ac- 
cording to tradition, the tomb was locked and the key throwrij 
into the Potomac. ii 



MT. VERNON 503 

The open Vestibule in front of the vault, where rest the 
Marble Sarcophagi containing the remains of 'George and 
Martha Washington, was a later addition to the tomb, and not 
completed until 1837. Its erection incidentally grew out of a 
revival of the often agitated proposal to remove the bodies of 
Washington and his wife to the crypt of the Capitol. At this 
time John Struthers, o)f Philadelphiia, received permission 
from the Government to present sarcophagi for their bodies, 
which he chiseled from solid blocks of marble. When the 
plan to remove the bodies was abandoned Mr. Struthers pre- 
sented the sarcophagi to the Washington family. Since it was 
feared that the marble might disintegrate from the damp- 
ness of the vault, it was decided to add the vestibule in order 
that the caskets might have light and air. 

The marble sarcophagi are severely plain. That of Wash- 
ington bears a high-relief sculpture of an eagle surmounting 
the American shield against a drapery of the American flag. 
Beneath is the single word "Washington." The other casket 
bears the words "Martha, Consort of Washington," on upper 
surface, and at end of casket, "Died May 2>i, 1802, aged 71 
years." By a curious error, left uncorrected until 1916, the 
inscription gave the year of her death as "1801." 

In the grounds surrounding the tomb of Washington are 
interred: Eleanor Parke Lezms (Nellie Custis), "d. July 15, 
1852, in the 74th year of her age" (spot marked by marble 
shaft) ; Mrs. M. E. A. Conrad, daughter of Lawrence and 
Eleanor Lewis (d. 1839, and buried here with her child) ; 
John Augustine Washington (nephew of Bushrod Washington, 
and last private owner of Mount Vernon). Here also stands 
a monument to Judge Bushrod Washington and his wife. 

Memorial Trees. Near the tomb are a number of trees 
planted as tributes to Washington and interesting because of 
their source, or the circumstance of their planting. They 
I iinclude : 



I. Elm planted by Dom Pedro. Emperor of Brazil (1876); 2. ^laple 
iplanted by Temperence Ladies of America (1881); 3. British Oak 
planted by request of the Prince of Wales (Edward VII) to renlace the 
onq planted by him in i860; 4. Tree planted by Sigma Chi Fraternity 
(1890); 5. Concord Elm planted by Children of the American Revolu- 
tion (1897); 6. White Oak planted by American Society of Civil 
Engineers (1899); 7- German Linden planted by Prince' Henry of 
Prussia (1902); 8. Elm planted by Phi Kappa Psi Fraternity (1902). 

One of the most recent memorial trees was that planted by the 
Daughters of the American Revolution during their 29th Continental 
Congress. It was a mulberry tree brought from Yorktown, and planted 
in historic soil contributed from every state in the Union. For example, 
that from Connecticut came from the homestead of Oliver Ellsworth at 
Windsor; that from Massachusetts came from under the Washington 



504 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Elm, at Cambridge; New York: from the battle ground at Saratoga; 
Virginia: from the graves of Patrick Henry, Thomas Jefferson and 
George Wythe. 

Many trees planted by Washington himself at Mt, Vernon 
are • still standing. According to a painstaking researcli 
recently made by Chajrles Sprague Sargent, at request of the 
Mount Vernon Ladies' Association, fifty-seven of these trees 
survive. They include : 

Fragrant blossoming- Honey Locusts, near the kitchen gardens, 
planted by Washington in his boyhood when visiting at the home of 
his step-brother Lawrence. Several CofTee Bean trees, and near them 
three huge Pecan trees, the latter planted by Washington March 25, 
1775, from Pecan,s given him by Thomas Jefferson. Buck-Eye trees, 
planted in April, 1785, from seeds gathered on a hunting expedition 
to Cheet River, W. Va. Also a towering Hemlock, 81 ft. tall, with a 
trunk measuring 2 ft. 6 in. in diameter, planted by Washington March 
II, 1785, It stands on the flower side of the Bowling Green. 

II. Arlington Cemetery 

^Arlington National Cemetery (PI. Ill — F-i), the most 
important of the many last resting-places set aside for the 
Nation's military and naval heroes, issituated on Arlington 
Heights, on the Virginia side of the Potomac River, about two 
miles due S. of Georgetown. It may be reached by trolley, 
either by the Washington-Virginia Ry., from its terminal sta- 
tion at Pennsylvania Ave. and 12th St. (transferring at Had- 
field Junction), or by the Fairfax Co. Branch of Washington 
and Old Dominion Ry., firom terminal at 36th and M Sts. 
Georgetown. Cars leave 12th St. station at half-hour intervals 
12 min. before and 20 min. after each hour. Round-trip ticket 
available on either line, 30c. 

The Cemetery is open daily, Sundays included, from sun- 
rise to sunset. 

History. The lands comprising the Arlington House Es- 
tate form part of an original grant of 6000 acres from 
vVilliam Berkeley, Governor of Virginia, to one Robert How- 
son, October, 1669, for the consideration of Howson's having 
transported a number of settlers into the colony. That sanK 
year Howson conveyed the lands to John Alexander, in ex- 
change for six hogsheads of tobacco. The title later descendec' 
to one Gerald Alexander who, in 1778, conveyed the Arlingtor 
tract of approximately iioo acres, for fiioo Virginia cur^ 
rency, to John Parke Custis, son of Martha Washington bji 
her first marriage. ! 

Upon the death of John Parke Custis in 1781, his two! 
youngest children, George Washington Parke Custis anii 
Eleanor Parke Custis were adopted by Washington. Th'| 
former, who inherited the Arlington estate from his father! 
was a member of Washington's family until the latter's deatl; 

II 



ARLINGTON CEMETERY 505 

m 1799. Soon afterwards he removed to Arlington, where he 
resided until his own death in 1857. He bequeathed a life 
interest in the estate to his only child, Mary Ann Randolph, 
wife of Lieut. -Col. Robert E, Lee, with remainder in fee to 
nis eldest grandson, George Washington Custis Lee. 

By an executive order of President Lincoln, dated Jan. 
eth, 1864, the eastern tract of about iioo acres "was selected 
tor Government use, for war, military, charitable and edu- 
cational purposes," and by the same order it was directed that 
the property should be sold to meet the payment of overdue 
taxes amounting to $92.07. At the sale it was bought in by the 
Government for about $26,000. After the death of Mrs. Lee 
m 1873, her son, George Washington Custis Lee, as heir under 
his grandfather's will, brought suit to contest the legality of 
the tax sales, and in 1882 a verdict in his favor was con- 
firmed by the U. S. Supreme Court. Thereupon Congress ap- 
propriated $150,000 for the purchase of the property, part of 
which had then been in use for 19 years as a National ceme- 
tery. Mr. Lee finally conveyed his title to the Government, 
March 3d, 1883. 

The cemetery had itsi inception in an order issued by 
the Secretary of War, June iS'th, 1864, directing that Arlington 
Mansion and surrounding grounds, not exceeding 200 acres 
should be appropriated for the burial of all soldiers dying 
in the hospitals of Washington, Alexandria and vicinity. The 
! boundaries were subsequently extended to the southern line 
of the estate, and the present area is 408 1-3 acres. 

The interments are mainly of those who died in hospitals, 
,but include also the remains gathered from Biuill 'Rlun, Ma- 
nassas, Chantilly and other adjacent battlefields, ajs. well as 
from abandoned cemeteries in the District of Columbia. The 
number of interments is now about 18,000 known and 4,700 
lunknown dead. 

j Sight-seeing wagonettes will be found waiting at the 
Itrolley station. Fort Myer Gate, and make the circuit of the 
principal monuments, with stop-over privilege at chief points 
of interest; fare 35 cts. Sight-seeing automobiles from 
Washington also make the circuit of the cemetery (p. 21). 
But if the visitor is a good pedestrian, the satisfactory way 
to see the many interesting inscriptions and sculptures is to 
igo on foot; distance about three miles. 

The general outline of the cemetery may be best described 
las a high plateau forming an irregular crescent, at the N. E. 
jhorn of which stands the Arlington Mansion, while along the 
southern horn are the Confederate Monument, the Spanish 



5o6 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

War Alonument and the Miles Mausoleum. In the centre 
the grounds slope downward in a broad hollow towards- the 
Potomac, and mddway in the descent is located the New Me- 
morial Amphitheatre (see p. 510). A large tombstone 
on L., marks the grave of Lieut. iRand, the first man to answer 
Lincoln's call for volunteers in 1861. 

There are four principal entrances to the Cemetery, the 
three on the E. side being Memorials. The N. gate has two 
stone columns on which are inscribed respectively the names 
*'Ord" and "Weitzel." The next or Sheridan Gateway con- 
sists of a stone tablet bearing the name "Sheridan," sur- 
mounting two pairs of columns inscribed respectively with 
the names, "Lincoln," "Grant." "Stanton" and "Scott." The 
six columns of these two northern gateways were part of the 
north portico of the old War Department Building, demolished 
in 1879. The S. or McClellan Gateway consists of a massive 
arch of Seneca sandstone composed of a capstone inscribed 
"McClellan" resting upon two columns bearing the names 
"Hooker" and "Burnsides." 

Practically all tourists, however, now approach the Ceme- 
tery by the W. or Ft. Myer gate. The entrance avenue 
divides almost immediately, the right branch leading S. 
to the new portion of the Cemetery; while the leftl 
runs almost due E. to the Arlington Mansion and old Amphi-' 
theatre. Following the latter branch we pass, on N. or L.l 
side, a number of fine monuments, every one bearing an his-j 
toric name. Near the entrance is the monument, erected inj 
1896, to the Second Connecticut Heavy Artillery, "Defences] 
of Washington, 1862-65." 

In the third line of graves N. of entrance avenue are twot 
monuments conspicuous by their contrast. The one is a| 
stately sarcophagus of dressed marble, erected to the memoryi 
of Gen. M. C. Meigs, Soldier and Engineer and Quartermaster! 
General of the Army during the entire Civil War; the other, 
marking the grave of his young son, Lieut. John Rogers : 
Meigs, a Civil Engineer on Sheridan's Stafif. killed in 1864.; 
consists of a flat bronze tablet in relief, showing the dead 
soldier on the battle-field, surrounded by the foot-prints of|j 
the horses which have trampled upon him. Near by are] 
memorials to two generations of Caprons, Captain Erastusj 
A. Capron, a victim of the Mexican War. and Captain Allyn ' 
Capron, who died from the effects of the Cuban Campaign., | 
Still further N.E. is a monument to Mai. -General Green Clay-; 
Smith, 1832-95 (bronze portrait medallion by Gorham Mffj^l 
Co.). Adjacent, flat on the turf, are a number of ancient'S 



ARLINGTON CEMETERY 507 

tombstones, among them one inscribed "James McCubbin 
Lingan, 1751-1812. Captive on prison-ship Jersey. Original 
member of Society of Cincinnati, Officer of Maryland Line." 
Other monuments in this section are to Royal Emenson 
Whitman, 1833-1913 (a bowlder with copper bronze medallion 
by Gutson Borglum) ; Lieiit.-Col. Garrick Mallory, 1831-94, 
"Scholar, Soldier, Scientist" (bronze medallion hy William 
Ordway Partridge) ; Captain John G. Burke, 1846-96, "Aide- 
de-camp of Maj. -General Crooke through all his Indian cam- 
paign"; Maj.-Gen. Abner Doubleday, 1819-93 (Historian of 
Gettysburg) ; Maj.-Gen. William V. Belknap, 1829-90, Secre- 
tary of War, 1869-76 (medallion portrait by Carl Rohl-Smith; 
Maj.-Gen. Benjamin F. Kelley (bronze high-relief medallion 
by W. S. Davis) ; Read Admiral Robley D. Evans, 1846-1913 
(bronze portrait bust signed "Charles J. Pike, Brooklyn Navy 
Yard, July 1906") ; John Wesley Powell, 1834-1902, "Soldier, 
Explorer, Scientist" (portrait medallion by Leila Usher) ; 
Senator Cushman Kellogg Davis, 1838-1900 (bronze portrait 
bust by G. Trentanove.) 

The Arlington House (IPI. Ill— F-i— No. 2), situated on 
the brow of the N. W. bluff, is about one-third of a mile due 
E. of the Ft. Myer gate. It was begun by George Washington 
Parke Custis in 1804, but was not completed until after the 
:lose of the War of 1812. Its most notable feature is its stately 
eastern facade, consisting of a colonnade of six Doric 
columns surmounted by a pediment, and said to have been 
modeled after the Temple of Paestum, near Naples, Italy. 
The view of Washington and the Potomac from this main en- 
trance is almost unrivaled. 

The Mansion itself and the principal outlying buildings 
have been preserved in their original appearance, and are 
in excellent condition. Visitors are free to roam through the 
principal rooms on the main floor of the Mansion. On the 
N. and S. sides of the spacious entrance hall ara a pair of 
large bronze tablets inscribed respectively with an abridged 
history of : i. The Arlington House Estate ; 2. The Arlington 
National Cemetery, prepared "for the information of vis- 
itors, by the Quartermaster's Department, under the direction 
■of Daniel Lamont, Secretary of War." (1896). 

I The Arlington House was the principal residence of 
iRobert E. Lee, down to 1861, when he resigned his Commis- 
'sion in the U. S. Army to join the Rebellion. 



The eastern slope, immediately in front of the Mansion, 
contains the monuments to some of the most illustrious among 
the Nation's heroes. Directly in front of the main doorway 



5o8 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

is a granite table-monument consisting of a slab supported 
on six granite legs (designed by IV. W. Bosworth), marking* 
the final resting place of L' Enfant, who planned the Citx: 
of Washington (p. xxvii). Visitoiris are not allowed to_ walk, 
across the surrounding circle of turf to read the inscription ij 
on the stone, but a copy of it, on a bronze tablet, is placed! 
near the roadway: |l 

"Pierre Charles L'Enfant, Engineer, Artist, Soldier; under thej 
direction of George Washington he designed the plan for the Federal; 
City. Born in Paris August 2d, 1755; died at Chilham Castle Manor,; 
Prince George Co., Md. June 14th, 1825. Reinterred at Arlington) 
April 28th, 1909." Jl 

Directly N. of the L'Enfant monument is a granite 
obelisk to Maj.-Gen. Horatio G. Wright. j 

Directly S. of the L'Enfant grave is the monument Xo\ 
Gen. Philip H. Sheridan, a simple granite obelisk, on the F,j 
face of which is a bronze bas-relief consisting of a medal- 1 
lion portrait bust of Sheridan, again.st a background formed | 
of a waving battle flag. Sculptor (name inscribed on flag-f 
pole), Samuel Kitson. \ 

Further S., on terrace, is the monument of Maj-Gen..| 
George H. Crook, famous for his many campaigns against 
hostile Indians. The W. fagade has a large bronze bas-' 
relief, depicting the scene of the surrender of the Apachel 
Chief, Geronimo. t 

West of the Crook monument, on N. side of main 
driveway, is the rectangular granite monument "To the Un- 
known Dead," bearing the following inscription : 

"Beneath this stone repose the bones of 21 11 unknown soldiers, 
gathered after the war from the fields of Bull Run and the Route of 
the Rappahannock. Their remains could not be identified; but their 
names and deaths are recorded in the archives of their country; and 
its grateful citizens honor them as of their noble army of martyrs. 
May they rest in peace. September, A. D. 1866." 

Almost directly N. of the Unknown Dead monument is 
the old Amphitheatre, erected in 1873, the columns of which 
are encircled with vines. Here, for many years, the Decora- 
tion Day ceremonies have been conducted. It Avill hold ap- 
proximately 5000 people. East of the Amphitheatre stands 
an octagonal Temple of Fame, twenty-five feet in diameter, 
consisting of eight stone pillars and entablature, iron roof 
and concrete floor. The pillars and entablature were removed 
'from the corridors of the Patent Offioe (p. 142) at the time 
of the restoration of that building, after its partial destruc- 
tion by fire, September 24th, 1877. 

On the alternate blocks of the entablature are inscribed thei 
names: Washington, Lincoln, Grant, Farragut; and on the eigliti 



' ARLINGTON CEMETERY 509 

;olumns are the names: Meade, Thomas, Mansfield, Sedgwick, Garfield. 
McPherson, Humphreys, Reynolds. 

Southwest, on main driveway, stands the bronze equestrian 
nonument to General Philip Kearney, heroic size, by Edward 
Clark Potter (b. 1857)- 

General Philip Kearney was originally interred in Trinity Church 
jraveyard, New York City (see Rider's Nezv York, p. 134), and there, 
faC)ing Wall St., his old monument still stands. Hisi remains were 
removed to Arlington April 12th, 1912. 

Across the roadway from the Kearney monuriient is the 
Receiving Vault, a small marble structure capable of con- 
•aining 15 bodies at a time. 

The visitor should now continue W., from the Kearney 
monument, on main driveway to a point opposite the Meigs 
monument; here an ill-defined pathway, southward, leads 
through the section occupied by the thousands of graves of 
the privates and non-commissioned officers of the Civil War. 
and known as the Field of the Dead. All these graves are 
marked by a standard stone, inscribed with the name and also 
;f:he number corresponding to the official roster in the War 
Department. Note that some stones have flat tops, and others 
rounded tops, signifying respectively the unknown and the 
Known dead. Contrary to traditional custom there are no 
mounds over the graves, the ground being uniformly levelled. 
Ahout looo ft. S., on the L. side of the path, are the isolated 
graves of George Washington Parke Custis, 1781-1857; and 
his wife Mary L. Custis, 1788-1853. 

Following the same path in a southwesterly direction, we 
presently reach the Southern Driveway, running E. through 
the new' addition of the Cemetery, to old Ft. McPherson. 
The S. W. cor. of the Cemetery was, in 1908, the scene 
of the death of Lieut. Thomas E. Selfridge, the first U. S. 
Ofificer killed by the fall of an Areoplane. 

\ The *Monument to the Confederate Dead is in the S- 
W. section, on S. side of driveway. It was contributed by 
the Women of the South, through the efforts of the United 
daughters of the Confederacy. It consists of a bronze female 
;figure, heroic size, symbolizing the South in Peace. She 
surniounts a lofty and elaborate pedestal, consisting of three 
sections: i. an octagonal base of marble; 2. a circular frieze, 
symbolizing the South in War, and depicting the sweethearts, 
wives and mothers of the South sending forth their men to 
'fight for the Confederacy; 3. circular upper section sur- 
rounded by the coat-of-arms of the southern states. The 
dedicatory inscription reads : "To Our Dead Heroes, by the 



510 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

United Daughters of the Confederacy. Victrix causa diis 
placuit, scd victa Catoni' (The victorious cause was pleasing 
to the gods, but the lost cause to Cato). Around the upper 
base is inscribed the quotation : "And they shall beat their 
swords into ploughshares, and their spears into pruning 
hooks." 

The statue, frieze and other bronze decorations were all modeled 
by Moses Ezekiel (1844-19 17). It is not generally known that the 
figure of the Confederate soldier in the frieze, immediately in line with 
N. E. cor. of the base, who with raised hand is apparently gazing 
upward at the statue, is a portrait of the sculptor. 

Continuing E., on South Driveway, we presently pass, 
on L., the Monument to the Rough Riders, inscribed: "In 
Memory of Deceased Members of the First U. S. Volunteer 
Cavalry, Spanish-American War. Erected by members and 
friends of the Regiment, 1906." 

Directly E. of the Rough Riders' monument is a small 
plot occupied by the graves and monument of the American 
Nurses, who died during the Spanish-American War. 

A few hundred feet N. of the Nurses' monument, on the 
verge of a slope, stands the Monumejit to the Soldiers and 
Sailors of the Spanish War, a tall marble shaft surmounted 
by a sphere, on which is poised an American eagle in bronze. 
Flanking the monument are two captured Spanish cannon, 
one dated "Sevillia. 11 de Alayo de 1831 ;" the other, "Sevillia», 
28 de Mayo de 1857." 

Northwest from the Spanish-American War monument 
stands the monument to the American Battleship Maine, sunk 
in Havana Harbor in 1898. The monument consists of the 
mast, conning tower and anchor of the Maine, and marks the^ 
last resting place of 163 unidentified sailors and marines who 
lost their lives when the ship was sunk. | 

In the hollow of the horse-shoe bluff, on the southerm: 
side of which the last two monuments are located, standsj 
the *New Memorial Amphitheatre (PI. Ill— Fi— No. 3).( 
dedicated May 15, 1920. 

This Amphitheatre is due mainly to the efforts of the Grand Armyij 
of the ReDublic. who desired that there should be erected here a 
memorial building to serve, in a measure, the pui-poses fulfilled byii 
Westminster Abbey in England, and provide a worthy memorial fi>r| 
the heroic members of the U. S. Army, N»vy and Marine Corps. i 

There have been provided in the crypt a few places of intermcnl 
for men who have specially distinguished themselves. And a grcal 
many spaces have been left for busts and commemorative tablets to men 
who have performed distinguished service in war. 

"To protect the use of the building against hasty and ill-considercc 
subjects, certain legislation will be provided by Congress. For example 
no memorial sball be placed to any mian — until ten years after his 
death, and then the specific consent of Congress must be enacted." 



ARLINGTON CEMETERY 5" 

The plan of the building is a roofless, loval amphitheatre, sur- 
■unded by a colonnade of white marble columns, and covering an 
ea of approximately 34,000 sq. ft. The entire structure consists of 
ire white Vermont marble. The Architects, Carrcre and Hastings of 
ew York, endeavored to obtain a classic and serious character in 
.eir design, in order to express the dignity lof the punpoee of the 
lilding. They studied especially the Theatre of Dionysius at Athens, 
id the Roiman Theatre at Orange, France; yet, at the same tirne, 
ey tried to keep the design in character with the old Colonial 
Hidings in Washington. 

•" The Amphitheatre is situated approximately 600 yards S. of the 
rlington Mansion. / Its principal entrance is through the E. 
ont, which forms d distinct building, and contains a spacious recep- 
on hall, above which is a room intended for a museum of historic 
;lics; while in the basement there will be a mortuary chapel. The 
;ception hall leads to the mammoth stage overlooking the auditorium, 
le outside dimensions of which are 260 x 236 ft., with a seating 
ipacity of 5000 people, and standing-room for about 4000 more. 

History. $75,000 were appropriated by Congress for the building 

i the Memorial Amphitheatre. The ground was broken March ist, 

515. The cornerstone was laid by President Wilson October ist, 1915. 

i.he Amphitheatre was dedicated May 15, 1920, President Wilson and 

{ eneral John J. Pershing both participating in the ceremony. 



f/i„ 



front of the New Amphitheatre, looking toward the 
I'otomac River, is the monument marking the "^^Grave of the 
Inknown Soldier, whose body, brought from France by 
general Pershing, was buried with impressive ceremonies 
Jov. II, 11921/the great gathering including the delegates then 
ssembled in''^ Washington for the Conference on the Limita- 
on of Armament. The monument consists of a massive 
lock of stone bearing a brief tribute to all the other un- 
■ientified soldiers who lie buried in France. 

Continuing E. from the Spanish War monument, on 
"louthern Driveway, we pass, on R., the historic earth-works 
»f old Ft. McPherson, part of the defences of Washington, 
vhich has been restored soi far as possible to its original 
ondition, and is today open to inspection by visitors. 

1 Northeast from Ft. McPherson the southern branch of 
lie horse-shoe bluff terminates. At the extreme N. E. cor. 
tands the unpretentious mausoleum to Gen. Nelson A. Miles, 
n which the remains of the late Rear Admiral Dewey were 
emporarily placed. 

i Immediately S. E. of the Miles mausoleum stands a monu- 
nent to Mrs. Vinnie Ream Hoxie, a well-known Washington 
sculptor, consisting of a pedestal bearing a medallion bas- 
elief portrait of Mrs. Hoxie, signed "C. T. Zolnay. 1910," 
md surmounted by a full length bronze female figure designed 
5y Mrs. Hoxie. 

I As the visitor retraces his steps westward, he passes a 
iimple rough block of granite, marking the grave 6f Rear 



512 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Admiral Sampson, and further on a monument to Dr. Walter 
Reed, with the inscription: "He gave to man control over 
that dreadful scourge, yellow fever." 

Immediately W. are the graves of Rear Admiral Schuyler 
Crowninshield (1844-1908) ; and his wife, Mary Bradford 
Crowninshield (1844-1913), novelist, best known as author 
of "Where the Trade Winds Blow." 

Throughout the National Cemetery visitors will note iror 
tablets placed at intervals along the paths, and inscribed witt 
stanzas of verse, such as : 

"The muffled drum's sad roll has beat 

The soldiers' last tattoo ! 
No more on life's parade shall meet 

The brave and fallen few." 

All of these quotations are selections from the same poet 
"The Bivouac of the Dead," by Col. Theodore O'Hara, ; 
veteran of the Mexican and Civil Wars. 

III. Alexandria 

Routes: i. Via Washington -Virginia R. R. (electric) 
from Pennsylvania Ave. Terminal at 12th St., N. W. ; 30. mir! 
Cars leiave every 20 min. or oftener throughout the day. 
Via Riahmond, Fredericksburg and Potomac R. R. and Wash 
ington Souithern Ry., from Union Station to Union Statlor 
Alexandria. 3. Via Washington and Old Dominion Ry. fror 
Georgetown Terminal (36th and AC Sts., N. W.) ; 45 min. 
Via Mt. Vernon and Marshall Hall Steamboat from whari 
foot 01 7th St., S. W.) 

Hotels: New Hotel Rammel, 126 N. Royal St. (opposit 
Municipal Building) ; unpretentioujsi. 

Lunch Rooms, etc. There are a few cake shops and ice 
cream parlors on King St., where tourists may obtain a ligB 
luncheon. Shiiman's, 516 King St., and Block, 615 King Si 
are as good as any. There is also a tea-room adjoining en 
trance to the Carlyle House. 

Souvenirs. Souvenir postal cards, etc., may be found 
R. E. Knight & Son, stationers, 621 King St.; also Gibsont 
Drug S'tore, cor. King and Alfred Sts. 



ALEXANDRIA 5i3 

Alexandria, Va., situated on the W. bank of the Poto- 
nac River, about 8 miles S. of Washington, has the advantage 
if an excellent harbor, accommodating large vessels, and has 
I considerable shipping trade in grains, manufactures, chem- 
cals, fertilizers, machinery and bricks ; it is the seat of the 
/irginia Theological Seminary. Population (1910), i5»329- 

History. Alexandria indirectly owes its origin and name 
John Alexander, the emigrant, who settled in Virginia 
ibout 1640. In 1669 his son, John, Jr., acquired from one 
C^apt. Robert Howsen a Crown patent for 6600 acres, com- 
)rising a large portion of the present county of Alexandria, 
for which he paid 6600 pounds of tobacco, together with some 
noney. In 1696, Simon Pierson, a connection of the Alex- 
mders by marriage, located on what later came to be known 
is Pierson's Island. In 1730, a public tobacco warehouse was 
istablished on Pierson's Island, about where the gashouse 
now stands. Around this warehouse a settlement grew up, 
:onstituting the hamlet of Belhaven, later Alexandria, which 
began with a single street, Oronoco St., named after the 
brand of tobacco brought here. It is believed that the name 
Belhaven originated in the pretty cove or haven formerly 
ying between the points of Oronoco and Duke Sts., long since 
Pfilled in and built over. 

Alexandria was the county seat of Fairfax County from 
1742 to 1800. It was organized as a town July 13, 1749, 
mainly through the initiative of Thomas, Sixth Lord Fair- 
fax (1690-1781), with the co-operation of Lawrence Wash- 
ington, William Fairfax, Gerard Alexander and others. It 
was incorporated by the Assembly of Virginia in 1779. George 
Washington was closely associated with its development. He 
helped survey and lay out its streets, one of which bears his 
name. He endowed its school, was a member of its Town 
Council, and representeu it in the House of Burgesses. The 
town was ceded to the Federal Government in 1789, and the 
first boundary stone of the Federal District was here laid 
April 15, 1791 (p. 519). It was retrocoded to Virginia in 
1846. 

Streets. What staunch loyalists the early citizens of 
Alexandria were is attested by the names of the streets ; King, 
Queen, Prince, Princess and Duke Sts.; Royal St. and Pitt 
St. ; while Lord Fairfax, Baron of Cameron, is twice com- 
memorated in Fairfax and Cameron Sts. The present Lee 
St. was formerly Water St., reminiscent of the fact that orig- 
inally it skirted the river firont, since reclaimed twio blocks 
eastward. 



514 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

The best way to visit Alexandria is by the Electric Line 
(route i), preferably in connection with the trip to MtJ 
Vernon (p. 19), taking advantage of the stop-over privi- 
lege. From one to two hours should suffice for visiting the{ 
principal points in the order given below. Visitors should! 
leave the car in King St., cor. Columbus St., and walk N. 
on Columbus one block to Christ Church, the starting point. 
If the tourist stops off at Alexandria on the return trip from; 
Mt. Vernon, he may leave the car at the cor. of Cameron St.,i 
directly in front of the Church. 

The Protestant Episcopal *Christ Church, the oldest 
church edifice in Alexandria, stands surrounded by its ancient' 
graveyard at the S. E. cor. of Columbus and Cameron Sts. 
(or, to be more exact, directly in the line of Cameron St.,i 
which here makes a detour on the N.). j 

Hisrtory. Christ Church, known until 181 3 as "The Episcopal 
Church," dates from 1765. On Feb. 1st of that year the Parish oV. 
Fairfax was created out of Truro, and on March 28th Col. George i 
Washington was elected one of the twelve vestrymen. The Vestry in ; 
Colonial Virginia possessed extensive civil authority, including! 
attending to the temporal wants of the church, overseeing the needs of' 
the poor, and the power of imposing fines and administering justice.] 
It was decided to erect two churches, one at Falls Church and the other! 
at Alexandria. To provide for the cost, the Vestry imposed upon the| 
parish a tax of 31,185 pounds of tobacco. In 1767 the contract for the] 
Alexandria edifice was given to one James Parsons for £600 sterling. , 

The designs accepted were by James Wren, according to tradition,! 
a descendant of Sir Christopher Wren, of whose characteristic church; 
architecture this simple structure is reminiscent. In 1772 the work was'j 
at a standstill, Parsons having found himself unable to ful.nll his con- 1 
tract, whereupon an additional sum of £220 was advanced by Col. John* 
Carlyle (p. 519). On Feb. 27th, 1773, the churich was placed in the' 
hands of the Vestry, and on that same day Washington purchased hisl 
pew for £36 los. In 1784, at the close of the Revolutionary War, j 
the church was disestablished, and the civil authoritty of the Vestry! 
ceased. In 1814, on June 9th, the church was consecrated as Christ' 
Church, by Bishop Claggett of Maryland. In 1818 the steeple wa*, 
erected. In 1853 the church was first lighted with gas. The present j 
Parish Hall dates from 18.^4, but was extensively enlarged in 1901, 
with the addition of five class-rooms and the tower. In 1890 it wasi^ 
decided ^o restore the old Colonial furniture which, after the Civil War, 1 
had been replaced by walnut furniture. Fortunately many of the J 
original pieces had been preserved, while others were replaced by 
furniture reproducing the style of the period. Consequently, excepting, i 
for the old tiled floor and square pews, the church looks substantially! 
as it did a century ago. j 

The visitor enters the southern gate and through thq 
Lodge (1913) adjoining the Parish Hall. Open week days,| 
9 a. m. to 6 p. m. ; admission, loc. "History of Christ! 
Church," IOC ' 

Beside the entrance door is a bronze mural tablet com-j| 
memorating the Pallbearers of Washington, some of whonrti 



ALEXANDRIA 515 

were fellow vestrymen (erected, 1909, by the Daughters of 
the American Revolution), The interior of the church is 
severely simple. In the framed original specifications, hang- 
ing on the western wall, one may read that "the arches and 
pediments are of the Tuscan order, the altar piece, pulpit and 
canopy of Ionic style," There are three windows in the 
cnancel ; and on R. and L. two panels containing, respectively, 
in black lettering on a gilt background, the Ten Command- 
ments and the Lord's Prayer, with the Creed. The Communion 
table, the desk and chairs, as well as the old frosted windows, 
'are all original. The Baptismal font dates from 1818, The 
original brass chandelier, with its crystal prisms, dating from 
1819, has also been restored. The attendant tells visitors that 
its candles are now lit only upon the occasion of a wedding. 
On the L. of the N. aisle, Nos. 59-60, is George Wash- 
ington's pew, the only double pew surviving. Diagonally 
opposite. No. 46, is the pew of Gen, Robert E. Lee, also a 
vestryman of Christ Church. Both pews bear silver name- 
plates, with the names inscribed in autograph. On the eastern 
wall, beneath the galleries, are mural tablets, erected in 1870, 
to the memory of Washington and Lee. 

'j In the Lodge is a small collection of early relics, includ- 
jing the first Bible and Church Service ; also the long-handled 
ipurse used in Washington's time for the offerings. 

There is little to interest the visitor in the old graveyard. Inter- 
ments ceased, with rare exceptions, in 1808. In the N. E. cor,, however, 
^is a monument marking the resting place of 34 Confederate soldiers who, 
^according to the inscription, "were disinterred from the Alexandria 
Soldier's Cemetery (Federal) and reinterred in this ground Dec. 27th, 
1879, under the auspices of the Southern Memorial Association of 
Alexandria, Va. These men were prisoners who died in the Federal 
Hospital in this city," 

Walking E. on Cameron St., to the rear of the church- 
yard, we reach Washington St., on the L. of which, midway 
in the next block N., is the site of the old Quaker schoolhouse 
kept by the noted teacher, Benjamin Hallowell. who here 
Iprepared Robert E. Lee for West Point. Beyond, at S. W. 
cor. of Washington and Queen Sts., the local historians record 
that here, in the Lloyd Mansion, Robert E. Lee was first 
motified one Sunday, by his cousin, Mrs. Tabb, that a com- 
mittee had that morning come to Alexandria ft) offer him the 
/Command of the Virginia forces, 

^yhen asked by Mrs. Tabb what his intentions were. Lee replied 
Ithat^ it would be improper for him to state them as he had not yet 
: received the official notification. As he prepared to take his leave Mrs. 
Tabb drew back, saying, "I won't kiss you, Cousin Robert, unless you 
accept the Command." The following morning as Lee, in company with 
other officers, started to ride South, he halted at this same corner and 
I sent in a brief note: "I shall claim that kiss from my dear cousin." 



5i6 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

Returning to Cameron St, and turning E., we pass on L. 
(last house on block) the large Fairfax House, with quaint 
arched doorway, built about 1815 by William Yeaton, and 
acquired in 1830 by Thomas Fairfax, whose descendants 
occupied it until the Civil War. Later it was for a time 
occupied by Constance Cary Harrison (Mrs. Burton Harri- 
son), the novelist, who has woven the romance of local his- 
tory into her volume of Belhaven Tales. Continuing to the 
corner, we reach St. Asaph St., north on which, three blocks, 
at the N. W. cor. of Oronoco St., still stands the home of 
Robert E. Lee, from his fourth year until he entered West 
Point. Continuing on Cameron St., E. of St. Asaph's, we 
pass on R. a small frame house (now No. 510) and a vacant 
lot E. of it, once owned by Washington. The lot was the 
site of his town office, which survived until 1857. Cameron 
St. next crosses Pitt and then Royal St., where, at the S. W. 
cor., stands the historic Gadsby's Tavern, the older or Cam- 
eron St. portion of which was built in 1750-54. Here Wash- 
ington had his headquarters as Colonel of the Virginia Militia 
when drilling his troops in 1754. Here the first celebration 
of the adoption of the Federal Constitution was held June 
27, 1788, and from the doorway on Cameron St., April 16, 
1789, George Washington, on his way to his first inauguration, 
responded to a farewell! address made by the Mayor, Col. 
Dennis Ramsey. Here Lafayette and John Paul Jones first 
met, in 1777. In 1799 the hostelry was enlarged by the addition 
of the four-story building on the corner, known as Claggctt's 
Tavern, and in more recent years called City Hotel. Some 
of the letters of the latter name may still be traced on the 
Royal St. fagade. In November, 1799, Washington issued 
his last military orders from this house when reviewing the 
"Independent Blues." It was also the scene of the annual 
Birthnight Ball, first instituted at Alexandria during Wash- 
ington's lifetime, and forerunner of the National celebration 
of Washington's Birthday. 

Here also Lafayette was three times entertained: ist, at 
a public dinner in 1784; 2d, at a banquet given by the citizens 
when he revisited Alexandria, October 16, 1824; 3d, at a 
banquet given in his honor, February 21, 1825, by the Alex- 
andria Washington Lodge of Masons. 

Within the limits of the city block, immediately E. of 
Gadsby's Tavern and bounded by Royal, Fairfax, Cameron 
and King Sts., was formerly Market Square, the historic 
center of the town. It was laid out in 1749. Around the 
open space were built the County Jail, 1755 ; the County Court 
House, 1755 ; the Friendship Fire Co., founded by Washing- 



ALEXANDRIA 517 

311, 1774; the Sun Fire Co., 1775 ; and the Masonic Lodge 
<n its present location, 1802. 

In this square the troops of Braddock were drilled; and here also 
he news of his defeat and death was announced to the country, July 
6tl), 1755. It was in Market Square, in 1754, that Washington had 
lis historic altercation with a Mr. Payne growing out of an election 
lispute, in the course of which Payne struck and knocked down 
/Vasliington. When they met by appointment the next day, instead of 
he expected pistols there were wine glasses and a decanter. Washing- 
on said: "Mr. Payne, to err is human. I was wrong yesterday; but 
;f you have had sufficient satisfaction let us be friends." 
1^ It was also in Market Square that Washington came to cast his 
I ast vote. "The polling place was up a flight of oVitside steps, so rick- 
ety that when the huge form of the General approached their foot, the 
Dystanders, apprehending danger to him, with silent and spontaneous 
iccord. braced the stairway with their shoulders as he mounted, and 
wailed there until he descended." Mt. Vernon, by Paul Wilstach. 

The market house, built around the Square in 181 7 with 
city offices and Museum, was destroyed by fire in 1871. The 
present building dates from 1872. Near the N. W. cor. the 
Colonial Dames of America erected, in 1914, a marble tablet 
commemorating the principal historic events in Alexandria. 
Just E. of this tablet is the entrance to * Alexandria- Wash- 
ington Lodge No. 22. The Lodge is on the second floor of 
the present building and is open to the public week days from 
19 a. m. to 5 p. m. (admission, loc). 

This Lodge is one of the most famous in the history of 
American Masonry. It obtained its first charter from the 
Provincial Grand Lodge of Pennsylvania, and was originally 
known as No. 39 of that jurisdiction. Shortly after the 
Revolution, Washington was elected an honorary member. 
In 1788 the Pennsylvania charter was surrendered and a new 
charter obtained from the Grand Lodge of Virginia, the name 
being changed to Alexandria Lodge No. 22. Washington be- 
came the First or Charter Master; and the instrument con- 
taining his name and signed by Edmund Randolph, Governor 
of Virginia and_ Grand Master of Masons, is one of the 
Lodge's most prized relics. 

The collection of Washingtoniana in possession of this 
Lodge, \yhile not large, is second only in interest to that oif Mt. 
Vernon itself. A few unique relics were destroyed when the 
former Lodge rooms were burned, including a portrait of 
Martha Washington taken in girlhood ; some others are 
thought to have been stolen at that time, including the crepe 
placed on the door of Mt. Vernon at the time of Washing- 
ton's death. In recent years the vandalism of relic-hunters 
for a time compelled the closing of these rooms to the public. 
The relics are now exhibited under glass and carefully 
guarded. 



5i8 RIDER'S WASHINGTON 

At the E. end of the room (the only part occupying tl: 
site of the earlier Lodge) is the *''Old Gainsborough 
Chair, occupied by General Washington when Worship ft 
Master. It was in continuous use for 117 years, and tli^ 
visitors who have occupied it include : Lafayette, Vice-Pres 
dent Fairbanks, Speaker Cannon, and Admiral Schley. 

On the eastern wall, to the L., hangs a *Pastel Portraj 
of Washington, by Williaws, of Philadelphia. This portra tj 
was ordered by the Lodge with the consent of Washington 
in 1793, and was taken from life. It shows the General lij 
extreme old age and in Masonic regalia. Note the unsparin.{i 
realism of details: the mole under the right ear, the sca?| 
on the left cheek, said to have been received at the age of. 
40, the pock-marks, etc Offers of $50,000 have been refused! 
for this picture. On the same wall, to the R., is a portrait 
of Lafayette, said to be by Pcale, executed immediately afte- 
the Revolutionary War and showing the Marquis at the agi 
of 27. Adjacent, on the S. wall, is a *Portrait of Thomas 
Lord Fairfax, founder of Alexandria, painted in London, 1730 
and claimed to be the only extant picture of the Baron. 

On the W. wall, L. and R. respectively, are two othei 
portraits of Washington and Lafayette, executed about 184c 
by a member of the Lodge. They are closely copied from the 
portraits in the Houise of Representatives, but the artist ha; 
added the Masonic iregalia. 

On the N. wall are two cabinets containing Washington 
iana and other relics of the Lodge. The custodian volunteer; 
a full account of their history and significance (no fee ex- 
pected). The more important exhibits include: i. Washing- 
ton's Masonic apron, made of cream-colored satin, embroi- 
dered in gold, showing the French and American flags en-| 
twined. i 

This apron is said to have been woven by Mme. Lafayette and, 
presented by her husband to Washington. The latter wore it at tlie 
laying of the corner-stone of the Capitol. The few occasion.s on which 
it" has been worn since Washington's death include: the laying of the 
corner-stcne of the Washington Monument in 18^8; and the Yorktnwn 
Monument in 1881. 

2. Washington's wedding gloves; 3- Washington's farm 
spurs; 4-6. His pocket compass, cupping and bleeding instru- 
ments; 7. Sealing-wax, taken from his desk after death; 8^ 
Portrait of Dr. Elisha Cullen Dick, one of Washington's 
family physicians, who succeeded him as Grand Master ot 
the Lodge; 9. Washington's bed-chamber clock. When 
Washington died, Dr. Dick cut the pendulum-cord, stopping 
the clock at 20 minutes after 10 p. m. In presenting the 



ALEXANDRIA 519 

:lock to the Lodge, Mrs. Washington said: "Its work is done, 
but the hands still point to the minute and hour that mark 
';he close of the greatest life in history"; 10. Beside the clock 
';tand three candlesticks, the original "Lesser Lights" of the 
Lodge, used, among other important occasions, at the laying 
Df the corner-stone of the District of Columbia, 1791 ; of the 
National Capitol, 1793; of the Washington Monument, 1848; 
and at Washington's funeral, 1799. 

Lastly, there is the *Little Trowel, of silver, with an 
'vory handle, made by one John Duffey, a silversmith, son- 
in-law of Washington's landscape gardener. It bears this 
inscription : 

"This Trowell, the property of ALEXANDRIA WASHINGTON 
LODGE No. 22 A. F. & A. M. was used by General Washington Sept. 
i8th, 1793 to lay the Corner Stone of the Capitol of the United States 
,of America at Washington, D. C." 

This trowel has been used on many historic occasions, the most 
recent of which was the laying of the corner-stone of the new Masonic 
Temple in Washington. 

Continuing E. on Cameron St. to Fairfax St., we reach 
;at the N. E. cor. the historic Wiesc's Tavern, erected before 
'the Revolution, by one Thomas Herbert. From 1784 to 1868 
it was the scene of numerous festive gatherings and Masonic 
banquets. Here the District Commissioners were entertained 
after laying the first corner-stone of the District of Columbia, 
April 115, 1791 (p. 522). The stone building is now the Anne 
\Lee Memorial Home for the Aged. 

Opposite, on the E. side of Fairfax St., occupying more 
ithan half the block, still stands a rambling structure formerly 
occupied by Braddock's Hotel (now an apartment house). 
The lower portion is at present used for shops, lunch-rooms, 
etc. Midway is the office of the Association in charge of the 
historic *Carlyle House, which, hidden from view by these 
modern commercial erections, is historically second only in 
interest to Christ Church. 

This ancient house, still in good preservation, was built in 174S, 
by John Carlyle, who came over from England as Collector of Customs 
for the Crown. He married Sarah Fairfax, a daughter of William 
Fairfax of Belair. He was one of the original trustees named in the 
charter of the city of Alexandria. At the request of Washington and 
Fairfax he was later appointed, by Governor Dinwiddie, Major and 
Quartermaster during the French-Indian Wars. 

The Carlyle House was the headquarters of General Braddock 
during the French-Indian Wars, and the northeastern room (Blue 
Room) was the scene of the "Council of Royal Governors": Dinwiddie 
of Virginia, Shirley of Mass., Delancey of New York, Morris of 
Virginia and Sharpe of Maryland, at which the first suggestion was 
made by British officials in council of taxing the American colonies. 
On this occasion Washington received his appointment as Aide to 
Braddock. Here also was held, in 1785, a conference between the 



520 RIDiER'S \VASHIX(jTON 

Governors of Virginia and Maryland which was called primarily to 
confer on the right of navigation of the Potomac River and Chesapeake 
Bay. It resulted, however, in an epoch-making convention .4' delegates 
from other states which met at Philadelphia, in 17S7, and framed the 
Constitution of the United States. 

In recent years a "Society for the Restoration of Historic 
Alexandria" has been formed, through whose efforts the 
Carlyle House has been restored, and is gradually being fur- 
nished in Colonial style. Open week days from 10 a. m. to 
5 p. m. (admission, loc). The custodian points out the 
historic Blue Room, the garden at the rear, formerly sloping 
to the river, the great wine-cellars and the arched vaults 
where, it is stated, Indian prisoners were kept during the 
French-Indian wars. 

One block S. on Fairfax St. brings us, N. E. cor. of King 
St., to the Ramsey House, built 1751 by William Ramsey, one 
of the founders of Alexandria. It is said to be the oldest 
surviving private residence. Continuing S. on Fairfax St., 
we pass, on E., midway between King and Prince Sts., Printers' 
Alley, where the first newspapers of the town were printed : 
Alexandria Ga:^ette, 1794 and later The Times, Advertiser, 
and Columbian Mirror. The Gazette is still published from 
its modern office, 321-23 King St. 

Directly facing this alley is the site of Leadbeaters' Drug 
Store, established 1792, the oldest firm m the city and third 
oldest firm of druP'p-ists in the United States. It was in this 
store that General Lee received his orders to proceed to 
Harper's Ferry to quell the insurrection of John Brown, 
Oct., 1859. 

One block E. on Prince St. brings us, N. W. cor. of Lee 
St., to the house of Dr. E. C. Dick, one of the physicians 
present at Washington's deathbed. Continuing S. one block, 
we reach, on the S. side of Duke St., midway between Lee 
and Fairfax Sts. (No. 210), the residence of Dr. James 
Craik, whose military record was associated with Washington 
through the French-Indian war and the Revolution, and who 
was one of the attending ph\'sicians at Washington's death. 

Continuing W. on Duke St., we reach, S. on Fairfax St., 
W. side, the old Presbyterian Church, built 1774. Washington 
contributed to its foundation and often attended service. 
The original structure was destroyed by lightning in 1835. 
The present building dates from 1836. 

Three blocks W. on Duke St., S. W. cor. of St. Asoph 
St. (now No. 301), stands the so-called Lafayette House, 
built by one Thomas Lawrason about 18.20-24. Here Lafayette 
was lodged and entertained when he revisited Alexandria in 



ALEXANDRIA 521 

1824. West one block on Duke St., then N. to intersection 
of Washington and Prince Sts., we reach the Confederate 
Monument, erected, 1889, on the site of the departure, May 
24, 1861, of the 17th Virginia Regiment. The inscription 
reads: "Erected to the Memory of the Confederate Dead of 
Alexandria, Va., by their Surviving Comrades, May 24th, 
1889." Monument designed by John A. Elder; sculptor, C. 
Bubiirl. 

Returning to King St., thence E. two blocks, we reach, at 
S. E. cor. of Pitt St., the remodeled structure which was 
formerly the "^Marshall House. At the opening of the Civil 
War this was a tavern kept by one James Jackson, a southern 
sympathizer. On the night of May 22,, Alexandria was taken 
by the Federal troops, among whom were the New York Fire 
Zouaves, commanded by Col. E. E. Ellsworth. Observing at 
dawn that the Marshall House still flew the Confederate flag, 
Ellsworth entered the house and tore down the offending 
colors. As he was descending the stairs, Jackson fired upon 
him with a double-barreled shotgun, killing him instantly. 
Jackson, in turn, was killed by the Zouaves. 

Diagonally opposite the Marshall House, on N. side of 
King St., stands the present building of the First Natioyial 
Bank of Alexandria, which was founded in 1792 as the Bank 
of Alexandria, and is interesting as being the first banking 
institution ever chartered in Virginia. 

The cemeteries of Alexandria lie at the extreme S. W. 
cor., beyond the old District line, and offer little of interest 
to strangers, with the exception of one mysterious and ro- 
mantic grave known as that of "The Female Stranger." The 
known facts are that in September, 1816, an unknown couple 
arrived at Gadsby's Tavern, the lady being evidently seriously 
ill; and there, on October 4, she died. Even then their iden- 
tity remained a mystery, the widower insisting that the in- 
scription on his wife's tomb embodied all that they chose 
the world to know. 

Visitors may readily find the tomb without a guide. Go 
W. on Wilkes St. (Fourth Street S. of King St.), the con- 
tinuation of which forms the main driveway through the 
cemetery grounds. On the L. we pass Bethel Cemetery: on 
the R. a smaller unnamed burial ground. At the end of the 
drive is the National Cemetery, containing the graves of 
soldiers who fell in the Civil War. Directly opposite the 
entrance stands a simple monument to Peter Carroll and 
others who lost their lives, April 24, 1865, while in pursuit of 
Lincoln's assassin, Wilkes Booth. 



522 RIDtER'S WASHINGTON 

To reach "The Female Stranger's"' grave, we turn into 
southern driveway before reaching the National Cemetery, 
and presently pass between two gateways, that on R. marked 
Presbyterian cemetery ; while opposite, on L., is a red brick 
gateway opening into St. Paul's Episcopal graveyard. Enter- 
ing, we reach, at first corner on R., the \ov^ marble slab, sup- 
ported on six gracefully carved pillars, and bearing a lengthy 
inscription, beginning as follows : 

"To the Memory of a Female Stranger whose Mortal Sufferings 
terminated on the 4th day of Oct., 181 6, aged 23 years and 8 months. 
This stone is placed here by her disconsolate husband, in whose arms 
she sighed out her latest breath." The verses( quoted in the inscription 
are from Pope's "Unfortunate Lady." Regarding the many conjectures 
as to the Female Stranger's identity, Francis E. Leupp says, in JValks 
About IVashington: "A local suspicion that she was Theodosia AUston, 
the daughter of Aaron Burr, seems to be discredited by the fact 
Theodosia's disappearance occurred' in 1812, and that her husband was 
dead long before the Stranger came to Claggett's Tavern.'' 

Another historic point, which few tourists take the trouble 
to visit, is Jones Point Light, situated at the extreme southern 
point of Alexandria County. This spot was the scene of the 
laying of the corner-stone of the District of Columbia in 
1791. The point is reached by following Lee St. to its ter- 
mination on Hunting Creek, then south-easterly across a filled- 
in tract, altogether about one and a half miles from Market 
Square, 

The stone itself was for many years hidden from sight, having; 
been embedded in the masonry of the outer wall surrounding the 
Lighthouse, and its exact location was a matter of controversy. In 1913, 
however, when certain repairs were being made in the outer walls on 
the S. side, the stone was exposed to view. In order to make it 
available for surveying purposes, Col. W. C. Langfitt, of the U. S. 
Engineer Corps, encased the stone in a concrete cage, with an opening 
in the side, through which it may now be seen by visitors. 

Two other "Jurisdiction Stones," No. i S.W. and No. 2 S.W., 
were erected within the limits of Alexandria. The first still 
stands in the backyard of No. 1200 Wilkes St. (on way to cemeteries); 
the second formerly stood on the N. side of Shuter Hill, about three- 
quarters of a mile due N.W. from the Alexandria L'nion Station. 

Shuter Hill, overlooking the Potomac and a large part of Washing- 
ton and the surrounding country, is interesting historically becaust it 
was the spot selected by Thomas Jefferson as the site for the Capitol 
of the United States. Steps are now being taken to erect on this 
spot a George IVashington Masonic National Memorial, to be devoted 
exclusively to Masonic purposes, "in honor of Washington as a man 
and a Mason." The building, which is expected to cost $500,000, ii 
also intended to provide a safe permanent museum for preserving the 
relics of Washington, now owned by the Alexandria- Washington Lodge 
(P- 5^7), which has already agreed to give them up whenever the 
Memorial building is completed. 



POHICK CHURCH 523 

IV. Pohick Church 

Historic Pohick Church, the parish church of Truro 

Parish, which shared with Christ Church, Alexandria (p. 514), 

[ the distinction of being for many years the place of worship 

'■ of the Washington f amih% is situated about seven miles 

almost due W. of Mt. Vernon. It is difficult of access except 

by automobile, the only railway communication being by the 

'Richmond, Fredericksburg and Potomac R.R., the schedule 

; of which is so arranged that the visitor nuist waste his entire 

' day from 7 135 A. M. to 6 140 P. M., except on Saturdays whcii 

1 the round trip may be made between 2.05 and 6.40 P. M. 

The train stops on signal at Pohick station. 

History. The original edifice of Pohick Church was situated about 
two miles N.W. of the present laqation, on what was known as 
Michael Reagan's Hill, cm the road leading from Alexandria to Col- 
chester and the south, and it was in this earlier building that George 
Washington's father, Alexander, served as Vestryman from 1735 
:' throughout his brief residence on his Hunting Creek property. George 
< Washington, in his turn, was first elected Vestryman Ocitober 25th, 
1762, and took an active ipart in church affairs during the following 
j twelve years. In 1705 Truro Parish was divided by Act of Assembly 
' which created the new Parish of Fairfax. Since Dogue Run was part 
' of the dividing line, ISIt. Vernon found itself transferred to the new 
, parish. The general protest raised by the parent parish resulted in 
; the appointment of a Committee of Burgesses, including Washington, 
who two months later secured the passage of a supplementary Act 
' transferring the northern boundary to Little Hunting Creek; comse- 
j quently Mt. Vernon is to this day indluded in Pohick Parish. In 
' 1767, when the present surviving edifice was projected, the membership 
of the church included, among other distinguished men, George WilliaJn 
I Fairfax, George Mason. Captain Daniel McCarty and Edward Payne. 
These four men, together with Washington, constituted the building 
committee who, on April 7th, 1769, signed an agreement for the con- 
I struction of the church, the contractor agreeing to complete the work 
by_ September ist, 1772. The new site was cjiosen by Washington, 
being two miles nearer his home than the old building. The cost of 
its erection was met mainly through the generosity of another member, 
Daniel French, who did not live to see its completion, for it is recorded 
that his executor, George Mason, tendered the completed church to 
the A^estry February 15th, 1774. W^ashington purchased pew No. 28 
in the new church, situated in the centre, before the Communion 
Table, on the N'. aisle. Pew No. 29 was first taken by Lund Washing- 
ton (for many years manager of Mt. Vernon), but later bought from 
him by George Washington, who retained both of these large square 
pews throughout his life, notwithstanding that in later years he and 
his family worshipped chiefly at Christ Chunch. 

Among the Rectors of Pohick Church were two men somewhat 
intimately associated with Washington; Parson Weems, author of the 
famous cherry tree and hatchet story, and Dr. Charles Green, who 
was an M.D. as well as a D.D., and during the 50's was the family 
physician at Mt. Vernon. 

_ The venerable church survived in fairly good condition until the 
Civil War, during which the whole interior was ripped out by soldiers, 
and the building used as a stable for their horses. After the war, 
practically nothing remained but the brick walls and a dilapidated roof. 



524 RIDER'S WASHIXGTON 

No steps were taken to restore or preserve the church unti[ after the 
election in 1895 of Miss Amy Townsend of New York as a Vice-Regent 
of the Mt. VeViion Ladies' Association. She promptly interested her- 
self in this undertaking, and thanks to her energtic etforts through 
twenty years, Pohick Church is now completely restored. 

The work of restoration was carried on under the super- 
vision of the well known Washington architect, Glcun Brozvn, 
who has endeavored so far as practicable to reproduce the 
original features, both in design and decoration. The double 
pews and pulpit and chancel are painted cream color_ with 
enamel finish, the walls are light buff and the ceiling ivory. 
The windows which, as well as the doors, were donated by 
J. Pierpont Morgan, are of ground glass, and the outside 
is of a green tint in keeping with the original window lights. 
Special interest attaches to the railings from the fact that a 
Federal soldier who had taken a baluster as a souvenir, sent 
it back when he heard of the proposed restoration, thus en- 
abling the architect to make duplicates. The stone Baptismal 
Fontr missing for many years, was finally found in a neigh- 
boring farmA-ard where it was utilized as a watering trough. 

The belfry, directly opposite the church, was donated 
by Augustus Schermerhorn of New York. It contains a large 
bronze bell inscribed "In Memory of Washington." The 
wrought iron gates and colonial brick wall at the entrance 
to the grounds were the joint gift of Roger Winthrop, James 
Ludlow, Gerard Beekman and Van Horn Stuyvesant, all of 
New York. 

Durmg the Civil War the sandstone trimmings of the 
church were much chipped by soldiers, and today many of 
their names and initials may still be read. 



INDEX 

For explanation of ahhreviations used see p. xii, most 
f them are self-explanatory. The names of architects, 
:ulptors and artists (of mural works) are entered here in 
alics, hut no attempt has been made to index^ the works 
f sculptors and artists in the various art collections proper. 



ibbe, Cleveland, homes, 
215, 22,7; introduces 
weather forecasts, 

219 

i;bbot, C. G.. home, 239 

ubbott, \V. L., Pac. Is. 
coll., 300 

Abington," 488 

Lcademy of Holy- 
Cross, 228 

- of Visitation, 473 

Lccaunts & Disburse. 
Bur., Agric. Dept., 
252 

idams, Henry, home, 
191 

-, Herbert, sculp., 
375, 383, 403 ^ 

-, Mrs. Henry, St. 

-Gaudens mem., 437 

-, Pres. J. O., death, 
96; first impression 
of White House, 112; 
home, 134, 148; 
d h u r c h, 137, 196, 
231, 233; interviewed 
by Anne Royall, 364; 
Marine Band estab., 
407 

-, Samuel. 95 

-Bldg., 148 

^•dath Israel, Syna- 
gogue, 141 

I'ddison, Col. T., of 
Oxen Hall, 444 - 

-. Rev. W. D., 471 

leronautics, Nat. Adv. 
Com., offices, 347 

agriculture Dept., 
252-55 

-— , lib.. 38 

aircraft Bldg., 251 

ilabama claims, 237 

daska purchase, 233 

i.lban Hill. 45.5 

dbert Hall, 419 

vlden, Adm., home, 
193 



Alexander, John, title 
Arlington estate, 504 

— , — , Jr., title to 
Alexandria site, 513 

— , /. I'V., murals, 383 

Alexandria, earlv '<nc\. 
in D. C, xxvi; re- 
turned to Va., xxxii; 
motor bus line, 21; 
landmarks, 488; de- 
scrip., 512-22 

— Washington Lodge 
No. 22, 517-19; pro- 
posed Washington 
mem., 522 
^ Alger, R. A., homes, 
191, 201 

Alibi Club, 31 

Alien Prop. Custodian, 
office, 202 

Alig, M., mem. tablet. 



[68 



Ar- 

508; 



141 
All Saints' (P. E.) 

Ch. Chevy Chase 

Cir.. 442 
All Souls' (Unit.) Ch., 

209 ; histoiT, 232 
Allen. Ethan, statue, 93 
— , W.. sculptor, 92 
Allies inn, cafeteria, 9 
Allison, W. B., homes, 

220, 228 
Alms House, D. C, 

225 
Altar of Calvary, 

Franciscan Mon.. 426 
Amatels, L., 56; Capi- 
tol doors, 263-65 
American Acad. in 

Rome, off. 213 

— Assn. . . . Speech to 
Deaf. 475 

— .Assn. Univ. Wom- 
en, 30, 191; history, 
236 

— Ethnology JB u r . , 
260: lib., 38 

— Fed. of Arts, off., 
213 

— Fed. of Labor, lib., 
38; bldg.. 229 



— 'Inst, of Archs., 211 
— League baseball pk., 
13, 27, 430 

— Red Cross bldg., 
154-155 

— Republics Bur., 
former home, 194 

— S. S. Line, 43 

— • Surety and Trust 

Co., 230 
— 'Theater, 137 
— • Univ., 443-44 
Americas, Hall of, 
Ames, J. T., 75 
Amphitheatre, old, 

lington Cem., 

new, 5 10- 1 1 
Anacostia, trolley 

route, 16; descrip., 
• 412-413 
Anderson, B. S., arch., 

434 
— , Larz, home, 229 
— , Gen. N. L., home, 

194; widow, 199 
Andrews, E. F., 200 
Animal Indus. Bur., 

252 
Animals, Zool. park, 

,444-55 
Annapolis, trolley 

route, 20; motor bus', 

21 
Anne Lee Mem. Home 

for Aged, 519 
Anthony, Susan B., 

relics, 331 
Apostolic Mission 

House, 418, 421 
Appier's (hotel), 106 
Aquarium, 245 
Aqueduct bridge, 

Georgetown, 466 
Archaeological Inst, of 

Amer., office, 212 
Archaeology, Ainer., 

misc. colls, 313-318 
Architect, Supervising, 

office, 124 
Architects, Amer. Inst., 



526 



RIDER'S WASHINGTON 



Ardsley, W. and G., 
sculp., 436 

Area, xvii 

Argentina, embassy, 

40, 235; former le- 
gations, 207, 229 

Arizona hotel, 133 

Arlington (apt. hotel), 
220 

— bldg, 189, 190, 219 

— hotel, former site, 
189; guests, 190 

— house, 507 

— Junction, 487 

— Nat. cem., 504-12 
Armory bldg., 245 

— sq., 244 
Armstrong, Gen. J., 

. home, 217 
— . Sec. of War, 1812, 

xxxi 
Army and Navy Club, 
30; site, 236 

— Engr. Sch., 350-351 

— Med. Lib., 250 
'Mus., 247-51 

— Munitions bldg., 346, 
348 I 

— War Coll., 350-52 I 
Arsenal, 350 | 
Art Comm., plans for! 

beautifying Wash., 
240, 241, 358 ; 

Art dealers, 31 I 

— 'galleries: Corcoran, | 
171-84; Freer, 339-' 
42; Nat., 271-80 I 

Arthur, Pres., homes,, 
404, 434 I 

Arts, Amer. Fed., 213 

— and Indus. Mus., 
322-339 

— Club of Wash., 30;^ 
bldg., 237 

Asbjornsen, 5"., 126 
Ascension, Church, 
orig. site, 149; pres- 
ent, 227 
A ? h b u r t on. Lord, 
church, 150, 196; 
liome, 190 

— Treaty, 191 
Assaunption of war 

debts by first govt., 
xxiv j 

Astrophysical Observa- 
tory, 251, 260 
Asylum, city, 410 
Athletic goods, 33 
Atliletics, 26 I 

Atlantic hotel, 100 I 

— Transport Co., 43 I 



Atzeroth. hanged, 351 

Auditors' bldg., 348 

Augur, Hezekiah, 
sculptor, 67 

Austin, S. F., statue, 
95 

Austria-Hungary, for- 
mer legations, 222, 

"Avenue of Presi- 
dents,'' 195 

Avenues, arrangement, 
xix 

B 

Bahcock, Gen. E. O., 

127 
Bacon, H., land, arch., 

224, 354 
— , R., home, 238 
Baggage, i 
Bailey, J., 102 
Baird, S. F., home, 

228, 246; Mem. tab- 
let, 247 
Baker, Newton W., 

res., 465 
Balch, Rev. S. B., 

464; grave, 480 
Baley, Adm. T., grave, 

482 
Ball, Thos., sculptor, 

96, 366 
BalHn, C. E., sculp., 

403 
Baltimore, Lord, 415 
— , trolley route, 19; 

motor bus line, 21 

— & Ohio R. R.. 9?; 
station. 358 

— & Potomac R. R. 
station, 358 

Bancroft, G., homes, 

192, 194 
— • hotel, rates, 5 
Bank of Alexandria, 

521 
Banks, 42 

Baptist churches, 34 
Barber shops, 43 
Barbour, Justice P. P., 

grave, 410 | 

Barlow, J., home, 224; 
— , Maj.-Gen., 154 1 

Barney. Corn., fleet! 

burned, xxxii 
Barracks, Wash., 350 
Barron - Decatur duel, 

192, 414 
Barry, Com. J., statue, 

232 



Barse, G. R., Jr., mu- 

rals, 390 
Bartholdi, A., sculp., 

244 
Bartlett, P. W., sculp,, 

58, 402, 403 
Barye, coll. of bronzes, 

174 
Baseball, 27 
Bastille key, 498, 500 
Baths, 43 ; first public, 

136 
"Battle Hymn of Re- 
public," III 
Baur, Theo., sculp., 

402 
Bayard, Sec, church, 

150 
— , T. F., residence, 

228 
Beall, Charles, 413 
— , Gen. E. F., home, 

193 
— , Geo., 462 
— , N i n i a n , George- 
town tract, 462; 

tablet, 471 
— , Thos., 462, 476 
Beck - Washington elm, 

242, 244 
Belasco Theatre, 187 
Belgium, embassy, 40, 

229; former leg., 222, 

229, 237 
Belknap, Gen. W. V., 

home, 188; grave, 

507 
Bell, Alex. Graham, 

home, 224 : Volta 

Bur., 475-476 
— , — Melville. death, 

224; home, 475 
— , Chas. J., 475 
— , J., lodgings, 100 
"Bellevue," 479 

— Farms Lunch, 9 

— (hotel), rates. 5 
Belt, Col. Joseph, 442 
"Belvoir," 490 
Benjamin, T. P., home, 

193 
Benning (town), 413 
— , Wm., 413 
Benson, F. IV., murals, 

Benton, Jessie, elope- 
ment, 133; school- 
days, 464 

— , T. H., statue, 95; 
home, 134 

Berge, Edward, sculp- 
tor, 148 



Bernard, Sister, grave, 

475 
Berret, J. G., home, 

236 
Bertinatti, J., home, 

217 
Berwyn, trolley route, 

18, 416 
Bethlehem chapel, Nat. 

Cath., 460 
Beveridge, A. J., home, 

220 
Beverly, Robert, 

Georgetown home, 477 
Bibliography, xxxviii- 

xlvi 
Big Hunting creek, 488 
Bill of Rights, 490 
Biological S o c . of 

Wash., 188 
— Survey Bur., 252 
Birds, Dist. of Colum- 
bia, 321 
— , habitat groups, 308- 

310 
Bissell, G. IV., sculp., 

403 
— , W. S., home, 238 
Bladen, Sir Thomas, 

415 
Bladensburg, trolley 

route, 17; battle, 

414; descrip., 414-15 
Blagden family, sum- 
mer home, 438 
"Blagden's Row,'' 151 
Blaine, J. G., homes, 

188, 193, 231; grave, 

481 
Blair, Gen. F. P., 

statue, 95; homes, 

194, 438; tomb, 436 [ 
Blair, Mrs. J., home,} 

193 

— , Montgomery, tomb, 

436 
Blake. Dr. T. B., pres. 

"Oldest Inhabitants," 

216 
Blashfield, E. H., mu- 
rals, 400, 401 
Blatchford. Justice S., 

home, 22,?! 
Blodgett's Hotel, site, 

142 - 
Blossom Inn, 9 
Blue Mill Tea Room, 9 
Bluemont, Va., trolley 

route, 19 
Board of Trade, Wash., 

106 
Boarding houses, 6 



INDEX 

Boardman, Mabel T., i 
154; home, 234 j 

BodiscO', Baron, mar- 
riage, 464, 478; 
home, 470; grave, 481 

Bodley, Dr. G. F.,' 
arch., 457 

Boggs, T. K., coll.: 
medals, 333 

Bolivia, legation, 40, 
228 

Bonani, 89 

Bonaitni Bros., 97 

Bonaparte, C. J., home. 



sculptor, 
[65, 229, 

W. W.. 



— , Jerome, home, 238 

Bonnesen, C. J., 126 

Book of Remembrance, 
Nat. Cath., 459 

Bookstores, 31; earli- 
est, 100; Lowder- 
milk's, 149 

Booth, J. Wilkes, 146; 
buried in Peniten- 
tiary, 351 

Borglum, G., 
93, 1^3, 
437, 507 

B o s w o r t It 
sculp., 508 

Botanic Gardens, 241- 
242 

Botanical Seminar, 188 

— Soc, 188 

Boundaries, early, xxvi 

Boundary stones, 2nd 
N. E., 440; 3d N. 
W., 442; ist, 513; 
dornerstone, 519 

"Bouquillon" lib., 421 

Boutwell, G. S., home, 
150 

Bowie mansion, George- 
town, 477 

Bowling, 27 

Boxing, 27 

B'oyce lane, George- 
town, 478 

— . W. M., Georgetown 
home, 478 

Boyd, Wm., ethnol. 
models, 372; sculp., 
Z7Z 

Boyle, J. J., sculptor, 
232, 402 

Boys' Club of 
132 

Brackenridge, 
John. 136 

Bracquecond, 
324 



Wash., 
Rev. 
mosaic, 



Braddock, Gen., land- 
ing, 352; Brad 
Stone, 458; hdqrs. 
Alexandria, 519 

Braddock's Hgts., 488 

— • hotel, Alexandria, 
519 

T'radford, John, m.em. 
cross, 436 

Bradley, G. L.. coll. 
engravings, 370 

— , Joseph H., home, 
136 

— , W. A., pres. "Old- 
est Inhabitants,'' 216 

Brady coll. Civil War 
photos, 352 

Brazil, embassy, 40, 
191; former legation, 
199 

Brazilian Coffee House, 
9 

Breckenridge, Gen. J. 
C, house, 362; at Ft. 
Stevens, 439 

— , Rev., Harewood 
est., 433 

— ■, W. D., botanist, 241 

Brewer, Justice D. J., 
home, 207 

Brice, C. S., home, 192 

Brightwood, 438 

Brooke, Gen. J. R., 
relics, 330 

Brookland, trolley 
route, is; descrip., 
414-416, 422 

Brook's mansion, 422 

Brooks, R. E., sculptor, 
95 

"Brother Jonathan," 93 

Brown, Bedford, engr., 
229 

— , Dr., phys. to Wash- 
ington, 495 

— , G. H., 114 

— , Glenn, engr. Rock 
Creek bridge, 229; 
arch., 524 

— , Justice H. B., home, 
204 

— ,H. K., sculp., 91, 
92, 200 

— , J. B., early land- 
lord, 100 

— , Gen. Jacob, grave, 

' 410 

— , M., home, 236 

— Betty Tea Room, 9 

— Tea Pot. tea room, 9 

Browne, H. K., sculp., 
366 



528 



RIDER'S WASHINGTON 



Brumidi, C, murals, 
6i, 6s, 76, 79, 81, 83, 
87, 88, 362 
Bryan, H. S., Mexican 

coll, 295 
— , W. J., home, 403 
Bryce, J., home, 224 
Buberl, C, sculp., 139, 

324, 521 
Buchanan, Pres., lodg- 
ings, 152; proposed 
mem., 208; church, 
231 ; .relics, 277; 
summer home, 434 
— St., bus line, 21 
Budget, Bur. of, 124 
Bulfincli, C, arch., 52,1 
232; home, 151 ' 

Bulgaria, legation, 40 ] 
Bulwer, R., "Lucile,"| 
190 j 

Bureaus, Govt. See^ 
under individual 
names. ! 

— , Smithsonian, 259 
Burlingame, A'., res., 

100 
Burlington apt., 220 
Burke, Capt. J. G., 

grave, 507 

Burnes, David, prop-; 

erty, xxvii ; on Pa. ; 

Ave., 97; farm, 147;' 

home, 170; grave, 437 

— , Marcia, marriage, 

107; burial place, 

437; mausoleum, 482 

Burnett, Mrs. F. H., 

home. 22Q, 239 
Burnham, D. H., arch., 

357, 358 
— , G., land, arch., 208 
Burr, Aaron, home, 149 
Butler, Gen. B. F., 
home, 404 j 

Butt, A. W.. mem. 

fountain, 153 
Butterflies, Iddings 
coll., 321 



C Street, 131-136 
Cabin John Bridge, 

trolley route, 15 ;j 

descrip., 483-484 1 

Calle offices, 23 
Cafeterias, 9 
Caffery, Father A., 147, 

362 
Caldcr, A. S., sculp,, 

250 



Caldwell, Mary G., gift 
to Cath. Univ.. 418 

— hall, 418, 419 

— ' — chapel, 419-420 

— house, 134 

Calhoun, J. C, statue, 
93;. lodgings. 99r 
187, 364; homes, 
^ii, i5i» 477; church, 
196; temp. bur. place, 
410 

Calvert, Benet, 415 

— , Eleanor, marriage, 
488, 493 

— estate, 415-416 

Cameron, Don, home, 
239 

— , C, bldr., 434 

Camipbell, G. W., home, 
217 

— , H. G., grave, 409 

— , James, home, 133 

Cannon, J. G., hoone,! 
220 

Canoeing, 27 \ 

Canterbury a m b o n ,| 
Nat. Cath., 459 | 

Capellano, A., soulp., 
60, 63 

Capital Traction Co., 
10-13 

Capitol, choice of site,'] 
xviii, xxviii; burned,! 
1 81 2, xxxii; rebuilt, 
xxxii; restaurant, 7; 
gen. descrip., 50-96; 
o r i g . , cornerstone, 
64; Amateis bronze j 
doors, 263-265; old 
b i d g . , 364 - 365; 
trowel used for cor- 
nerstone, 519; sitej 
desired by Jefferson, 1 
522 I 

— ' hill, xviii [ 

— park, 356 , 

— Park (hotel), rates, 
4; restaurant, 7;loc., 
357 

— power plant, 405 
Capron, Capt. Allyn, 

grave, 506 
— , Capt, E. A., grave, 

506 
— , family relics, 327 
— , Gen. H., 2d com, 

agric, 252 
Carlyle, J. G., home, 

238 
— , Col. John, gift to 

Christ Ch., 514; 

home, 519 



Carnegie, A., gift to 
Pan Amer. Un., 163, 
171; to Pub. Lib., 
226 

— 'Endow. Internat. 
Peace, lib., 39 

— 'Inst, of Wash., 201; 
Geophysical Lab., 441 

Carpenter, F. B., 87 

Carrere &■ Hastings, 
archs., iii, 353, 365, 
404 

Carroll, Chas., of Car- 
roillton, statue, 95 

, of '"Bellevue," 

479 

— , D., first c o m m r., 
xxvi ; property hold- 
ings, xxvii; friction 
with L'Enfant, xxviii; 
real estate venture, 
350; work rebuilding 
Capitol. 364: church, 
411; commr.. 465 

— Hall, site, 150 

— Inst, lib., 40 

— 1, J., 1st bp. of Mary- 
land, xxvi, 411; 

founder Georgetown 

Coll., 467; statue, 468 
— , J. L., home, 521 
— , Peter, grave, 521 
■ — Tobacco House, 405 
Carusi's, dancing acad,, 

104 
Casey, E. P., arch., 

156, 241, 369, 377, 

385, 400 
— , Gen. T. L., engr., 

127, 344, 369 
Ca^s, Lewis, statue, 92; 

homes, 190, 214; 

church, 196 
Catacombs, Franciscan 

Mon., 427 
Caterers, 32 
Cathedral of St. Peter 

and St. Paul, 455- 

458 
— ■ Sch. for Boys, 459 

for Girls, 461 

Catholic Sisters' Coll., 

418, 423 

— Univ. of Amer., lib., 
38; descrip., 416-423 

Caiisici, E., sculp., 63, 
89 

Cemeteries: Arlington, 
504-512; Battle Field, 
Ft. Stevens, 439; 
Bethel. Alexandria, 
521; Christ Ch,. Al- 



exaiidria, 515; Christ! 
Ch. (Congressional), 
406, 408; Convent of i 
Visitation, 475; Glen- [ 
wood, 363 ; Alt. Oli- 1 
vet, 414; Mt. St. 
Sepulchre, 429; Nat., 
Alexandria, 
521 ; Nat. Cem., 435;, 
Oak Hill, 479-483; 
Prospect Hill, 363; 
Rock Creek. 436-438 

Cenotaphs, Cong, cem.,! 
408 j 

Census Bur., office, 245 

Centenary celebration,! 
1893, 64 I 

Centre 'House Inn, site, 
152 I 

Ceramics, Xat. mus.,' 
339 I 

Chamber of Com., 
S., hdqrs., 191 

, Wash., 106 

Chamberlain, Dr. L, 



U. 



T., 



31: 



Chaminade Inst., 418 

Chandler, Z., statue, 93: 

Channing, Rev. W. H.,! 

pastorate, 2^2 \ 

Chase, Salmon P.,' 

home, 140; church,! 

196 I 

— ^, Justice church, 196 j 
Chelnionski, 106 j 

Chemical S o c . of! 
^ Wash., 189 j 

Chemistry Bur., 252 
Cherry Alley, 'Cieorge-j 

tcnvn, 463, 465 
Chesapeake & Ohio} 

Canal, 463; monu- 
ment, 465 
Chevy Chase, trolley 

route, 12, 13 

Circle, 442 

— ' — Club, 31, 442 
Chi-Kang, home. 100 
Children's Court, 362 
Childs' restaurant, 9 
Chile, embassy, 40; 

former leg., 199, 238 
China, legation, 40; 

former leg., 201, 235, 

239 
— ' stores, 32 
Chloriviere, Father, 

tomb, 475 
Chodcinski, C, sculp., 

108 
Christian churches, 34 
— Science churches, 34 



INDEX 

■ iib., 40 

Christ Church, 405, 

406 ; cemetery, 406, 

408 

— - — •, Alexandria, 514 
— • — , Georgetown, 472 
Churches, 33-37 

For i n dividual 
churches see their 
names; also denom- 
inations 

Cigar stores, 32 

Cilley, J., lodgings, 
133; duel, 414 

Cinderella Tea Garden, 
9 

City iTlub, 30 

— Hall, 137 

— -hotel, Alexandria, i 
_5i6 j 

Civil Service Comm.,1 
lib., 38; office, 153 I 

— War, transforms: 
city, xxxiii; review 1 
Fed. veterans, xxxiv; I 
relics, 324-328 I 

Claggett, Bp., ded. 

Christ Ch., 406; bur-' 

ial pi, 458, 461 
Claggett's tavern, Al-j 

exandria, 516 
Claims Court of U. S.,i 

195 ! 

— Hall, 431 

Clark. A. P., arch., 

202 
— , Edzv., arch., 53, 97, 

143 
— , Sen. \\ . A., homes, I 

202, 229 j 

Clarke, J. P., statue,: 

92 
— , M. S., mansion, 

190 
Clay, H., lodgings, 99,1 

187; death, 100; 

church. 132; home, 

192; duel, 414; Mo. 

Compromise bill, 416 
C 1 a y-S m i t h , Gen. 

Green, grave, 506 
Clean Drinking manor, 

442 
Clements, Gabrielle, 

murals. 148 
Cleveland, Pres., 

church, 134, 136; 

"Red Top" home, 

441 

— Park. 441 
Clinton. G., statue, 91 



— , Vice Pres., death, 

217 
Clothiers, 32 
Clubs, 29-31. See also 

under individual clubs 
Clitss, A., 101 

— and Schuhe, archs., 
324 

Coast and Geod. Sur- 
vey, lib., 39; office, 
405 
Coaites, John, 442 
Cobb, Howell, home, 

103 
C o ;c k b u r n , Adm., 
blockade of city, 
1812, xxxi; hdqrs., 
^ 403 

Coleman Mus., 469 
Colfax, Vice-Pres., 
church, 136; home, 
193 
Collamer, J., statue, 92 
Cohnan, N. J., home, 

222 
Colombia, legation, 40, 

201 
Colonization Bldg., 99 
Colorado Bldg., 150 
Columbia car line, 17 

— Country Club, 31, 
442 

— Hist. Soc., Z7, 141 

— Hosp. for Women, 
218 

— Inst. Deaf Mutes, 
362, 366-368 

Co'lumbian Bldg., 140 

— Inst., est. Bot. Gar- 
dens, 241 

— ' Title Insu Co., 140 
— • Univ., 215 
Columbus Mem. Lib., 

regulations, 

Z7\ bldg., 167 
Commerce Bldg., 216 

— Comm., Interstate, 
216 

— Dept., lib., 38 
Commissioners, of D. 

C, XXXV, xxxvii; 

name city, 465 
Compagnie Gen. Trans- 

atlantique. See 

French Line 
Concerts, 26 
Confectioners, 32 
Confedera'te Dead 

Mon. Arlington, 509; 

Alexandria, 515, 521 
Congregational 

churches, 34 



530 



RIDER'S WASHINGTON 



Congress Hall Hotel 
rates, 4; res't, 7 
loc., 405 

Congress Heights, trol 
ley route, 16, 413 



Payne, 480; mauso- 
leum, 482 

Correa da Serra, J., 
home, 217 

Corrie, John, statue, 95 



Congressional Costa Rica, legation 



Cem., 408-410 
— Club, 30, 207 
— Country Club, 31 



40; former leg,, 222 
Cosmos club, 30, 188- 
199 



—Lib. See Lib. of Con- i — theatre; rates, 25 
Costaggxm, h., 61 
Costumes, hist, collu, 



gresisi 

— Record, 361 
CoJikling, Roscoe, home, 

211 
Connecticut (apt. 
house), 223 

— ave., 222-225, 440- 
442 

Qonnor, J., sculp., 468, 
482 



331 

Council of Royal Gov- 
ernors, 519 

Couper, Wm., sculp., 
109, 223 

Court, Children's, 362 

" — End," Georgetown, 
463 

— House, District, 137 



Conrad and McMunn,;_^^ Appeals, District, 



405 

— , C. H., 90, 96 
—,Mrs. M. E. A. 

grave, 503 



138 
• of Claims of U. S., 



Continental Cong., 
records, 370 

— Hall, D. A. R., 
^155-162 -^ 

— Hotelr rates, 4; res- 
taurant, 7; loc, 356 

Convent of the Visita- 
tion, 473, 475 

Conway, Rev. M. D., 
pastorate, 232 

Cooke, Henry D 
gov., xxxiv 

Coolidge's hotel, 364 

Coombs, ]\L, restaura- 
teur, 103 

Cope & Stewardson, 108 



19s 

Covenant church, 223 
Cox. Kenyon, murals, 

393 

Cox, W. v., "Emery 

Place," 438 

Coxey, J. S., "Army," 

XXXV 

Craik, Dr. J., phys. to 

Washington, 478, 495; 

home, 520 
— , Wm, 478 
ist,(;,-fl„j Sr Ferguson, 

archs., 457 ^ , , 
Crampton, Sir J., home, 

478 
Cranston, Bp., promoter 

Amer. Univ., 44 



Copper Bowl, tea room,' Crawford, T., sculp., 
58, 75 ; doors, House 



9 

Coppini. P., 92 
Corcoran Art Gallery 



Rep., 88; "Liberty, 
329 



[71-184; orig. bldg.. Crematory, 410 



194 
— , School of Art, 171, 

184; founder, 200 
— . Scien. Sch., 214 
— , Thos., Georgetown, 



Cret, P. P., architect, 

163 
Crittenden, Atty. Gen. 

home, 189 
oak, 242, 244 



462; founder Christ's Crook, Gen. G. 11. 



Ch., 472 



grave, 508 



Corcoran, W. W. 107;; Crop Est. Bur., 25; 
gift of Art Gall., 171; Crosby House, 



■32 



home site, 191; court- Crowninshield, B. W., 

home. 217 

Mary B., grave, 512 

S., grave, 512 

Gen. Wm., 

home, 228 



ship, 199; founder 

of Louise Home 

22S; Harewood est.,! — , Ad. 

433; endows OakjCrozie 

Hill cem., 479; mon. 



Crutchet house, 136 

Cuba, legation, 40, 208; 
former leg., 199 

Cullum, S. yi., home, 
228 

Culpeper, Lord, grant 
to Col. Washington, 
491, 498 

Cunard S.S. Line, 43 

Currency, Comptroller 
of, 124 

Curry, J. L. M., statue, 

^92 

Curtis Sch., George- 
town, 472 

Custis, Eleanor (Nel- 
lie), birthplace, 488; 
adopted by Washing- 
ton, 494; marriage, 
494; grave, 503 

Custis, Eliz. Parke, 
350, 405 

— , G. W., adopted by 
Washington, 494 

— , G. W. P., title Ar- 
lington Est., 504; 
grave, 509 

— ', J. P., home, 488; 
marriage, 493; death, 
494; title Arlington 
est. 504 

— , Martha, death, 493 

— ', Martha D., mar- 
riage to Washington, 
493; death, 495 

— ', Martha P., 239, 
476 

— , Mary L., grave, 509 

— , P., schooldays, 464 

Cutts, R., homes, 148, 
189 

Czechoslovakia, lega- 
tion, 40, 225 

Czolgosz, L. F., slayer 
of McKinley, xxxvi 



Daguerre, L. J. M., 
mem., 251 

Dahlgren Adm., home, 
136; daughter, 194 

Dallas, \'ice-Pres., 
church, 196 

D'Angers, D., 63 

Daniels, Josephus, 
home, 225 

Dianish Rose tea room, 9 

Dante, statue, 208 

Darnell, H., George- 
town tract, 462 



D'Ascenzo, N., fres- 
coes, i68 
Daugherty, H. M., resi- 
dence, 441 
Daughters Amer. Rev., 
37; Mem. Hall, 155- 
162 
Davidson, S., xxvii 
Davis, Mrs. B., jewels, 

198 
— , Sen. C. K., grave, 

507 
— , G. B., home, 192 
— , Jeff., church, 150; 

homes, 214, 236; 

Cabin John bridge, 

483 
— , Rev. Saml., grave, 

481 
— , W. S., sculp., 507 
Davis's hotel. 100, 135 
Deaf, \'^olta Bur., 475 
— Columbia Inst., 366- 

368 
De Bresson, C a t h 4 , 

grave, 409 
Debts, state, assumed 

by first govt., xxiv 
Delqatur. S., homes, 

185, 192; temp. bur. 

iplace, 225; duel w. 

Barron, 414 
Declaration of Inde- 

pend.. signing (paint- 
ing), 63 
Die Garam.bonville, Gen. 

T., home, 217 
Deinard 'CoH. Hebraica, 

370 
DeLand, Dr. F., 476 
De la Roche, G. F., 

landscape arch., 480 
De Ncsti, A., sculp., 109 
De Neuville, Baron, 

home, 192 
Denmark, leg., 40, 107 
De,pe\v, C h a u n c e y, 

home, 192, 234 
De Sibour, J. H., arch., 

230 
Dewey, Adm. G., pa- 
rade in honor, xxxvi; 

home, 238; temp. 

burial place, 511 
Dewing. T. W., coll. in 

Freer Gall., 340 
Dick, Dr., phys. to 

Washington, 

495: home, S20 
Dickens, Mrs. F. W., 

china coll., 330 



INDEX 

Dicky's tavern, 485, 

486 
Dielman, F., 105; mo- 

saic)s, 382 
Digges, Dudley, xxix 
— ■ family, 490 
Disbrow, W. S., coll. 

N. J. minerals, 311 
Disinfection plant, 410 
Dispensary, Central, 

209 
— I, Northern, 233 
"District Bldg," 108- 

IIO i 

— 'Court House, 137 ! 

— 'Court of Appeals,! 
138 j 

District of Columbia,; 
early strife over loca-, 
tion, xxiii-xxiv; first! 
boundaries, xxvi {see\ 
also Boundary); cor-' 
nerstone, 519; fauna,] 
321 I 

— ' Police Court, 137 

Dix, J. A., home, 135! 

Docks, arrival at, 2 

Documents, pub., Supt. I 
of, 362 j 

Dodge, R. L., murals, | 
395 I 

— , W. de L., murals, 
379; frescoes, 396 ^ 

"D oily Madison: 
House," 189 

Dolph, Sen., home, 194 

Dome, Capitol, dimen- 
sions, 57; descrip., 
64-66 

— (, Lib. Cong., 400 j 

Dominican Republic,! 
legation, 41, 228 j 

Donoglme., /,, sculp., 
402, 403 

Dc'ors. bronze, Capitol, | 
59-60, 75, 88, 263-1 
265; Lib. Cong., 374 j 

Dor-ey, Judge W. H.,! 
Georgetown h o m e,' 
477 I 

Doubleday, Gen. A., 
grave, 507 

Douglas Hosp., 362 

— • Row, 362 

— ■, S. A., home, 362 

— , JV. J., arch., 209 

Douglass, F., oration 



Downing, A. J., land, 
arqh., 114; mem. urn, 
251 
Doyle, A., sculp., 91, 

95 
Draft Board, former 
i hdqrs., 144 
I DriscoU (hotel), rates, 
: 4; restaurant, 7 

Drug stores, 32 
I Dubois, P., sculp,, 208 
Duelling ground, Bla- 

densburg, 414 
Dumbarton, Rock of, 

462 
— 'Tennis Club, 31 
Dunbar H. Sch., 362 
— , P. L., 362 
— , U. S. J., sculp., 
109, no, 221, 482; 
ethnol. groups, 292, 
293, 294 
"Dunston Hall," 490 
Dupont, Adm. S. F., 

mem. fountain, 224 
— • Circle, 224 

E 

Early, Gen. J. A., ad^ 

vance on city, xxxiii 
Easby, Capt. Wm., 410 
Eastern branch, 412 
— 'Br. hotel, 410 
— H. S., 411 
Eaton, Gen., marriage 

to Peggy O'Neale, 

217 
— , J. H., grave, 482 
Ebenezer M. E. Ch., 

405, 411 
Ebbitt House, 1 49 
Eccard, A., arch., 
Ecuador, legation, 

203; former leg., 
Edmonds, Sen., home, 

229 
Education Bur., lib., 38 
Educational Assn., Nat., 

200 
EjTfiqiency Bur., office, 

153 
Eidlits, L., tablet, 212 
Eighteenth St., 234-235 
Elder, J. A., 521 
Eleventh st., car lines, 



138 
41, 
236 



16-17 
Lincoln statue, 366;! Eliot, Chas. W., in- 
home, 412, 489 I scriptions on post of- 
— 'Mem. Assn., 412 j fice. 357; union sta- 
Dow, Lorenzo, grave,' tion, 359; Lib. Cong., 
481 I 402 



532 



RIDER'S WASHINGTON 



Elkins, S. B., home, 

238 ^ . 

EUicott, A., 2d city 

engr., xxix 
— ,H. J., sculp., loi;^ 

ethnol. models, 289, [ 

299, 300, 372 
Elliott, W. P., arch.,! 

143; grave, 409 
Ellis, _ G. W., Jr., Li- 

beriau coll., 301 
Ellsworth, Col. E. E., 

Zouaves, no; death, | 

521 i 

— , H. L., home, 133 | 
Emancipation M o n . , j 

Lincoln, 366 1 

— Proclamation,, sign- 
ing of (painting), 87 I 

Embassies, 40-42 j 

Embroidery shops, 32 
Emergency Fleet Corp., 

offices, 347 
— Hosp., 209 i 

, Northern,^ 233 

Emery, M. G., homes, 

362, 438; mon., Rocik I 

Cr., 438 

— Mem. Ch., 438 
Emory, Mrs. W. H.,! 

Alaskan coll., 291 \ 

Employees' (U. S.) 

Compensation Com., 

245 I 

Engineer Sch., Army, 

350-351 

Engineers, Wash. Soc, 
189 ! 

English, Lydia, Young i 
Ladies' Sem., 464 

Engraving and Print- 
ing Bur., 348-349 

Entomology Bur., 252 

Epiphany, Church, 150, 
207 

Episcopal Eye, Ear and 
Throat Hosp., 231 

— Theol. Sem., Va., 
488 

Ethnology Bur., 260; 
exhibits, Nat. Mus., 
288-303; Amer., misc. 
colls., 313-318: carv- 
ings on Lib. of Cong., 
372-373 

Eustis, W. C, home, 
192 

Evans, Adm. R. D., 
home, 132; grave, 507 

— , Wm. T., coll. 
Amer. art, 272, 2'jy 
-275, 278 



Evarts, W. M., home, 
236 

Everett, Edw.. home 
site, 214; contrib. to 
Mt. Vernon fund, 
496 

— ■ hotel, rates, 5 ; res- 
taurant, 9 

Evening Star (paper), 
105, 228 

Evvell, Dr., home, 193 

Ewing, Sen. T h s., 
home, 194 

Executive Mansion, 
111-122; temp, in 
Octagon House, 211 

— offices, 113 

Explorers, early, xxv 

Ezekiel, M., sculp., 
195, 510 



F street, 141-149 
Fabre S. S. Line. 43 
Fairbanks, Vice Pres., 

church, 134; homes, 

229, 238 
Fairfax, Brvan, home, 

488 
— , G. W., church. 523 
— , Sarah, marriage, 

519 
— ,Thos., org. Alexan- 
dria, 513; home, 516 
— , Wm., home, 490 
Falguicrc, A., sculp., 

185 
Fall, A. B.. residence, 

441 
Falls Church. Va., 

trolley route, 19 ' 

Farm Man. and Econ. 

Bur., 252 
Farragut, Adm., duel, 

185; statue, 222; 

relics, 325 
— sq., 222 
Fassett, Mrs. C. A., 

74, 103 
Federal Farm Loan 

Bur., off., 144 
"Female Stranger," 

484, 521; tomb, 522 
Fencing, 2y 
Ffoulke. C. M., home, 

229; tomb, 437 
Field, Justice, church, 

150; home, 365 
— , Cyrus W.. early 

cables, 325, 326 



" — of the Dead," Ar- 
lington, 509 

Fifteenth St., 230-231 

Fillmore, Pres., home, 
133; church, 137, 196, 
231, 233 

Filtration plant, city, 

363 

Finland, legation, 41 

Fire dept., xxxvii 

First Baptist ch., 
former site, 145; 
loc, 201 

— ■ Nat. Bank, Alex- 
andria, 521 

— •Presbyterian ch., 

136 

Fish, Hamilton, church, 
196; home, 201 

Fisheries Bureau, lib,, 
39; gen. descrip., 
245-247; hatchery, 
490 

Fixed Nitrogen Re- 
search Lab., 252 

Flag and Drum Inn, 9 

Flagg, E.. arch., 171 

Rags, historic, from 
Lincoln bo.x. Ford's 
Th., 124; Ft. Sum- 
ter, 130; funeral 
Amers. lost on Tits- 
cania, 328; the "Star 
Spangled Banner" of 
Ft. McHenry, 329 

Flanagan, J., sculp., 
402 

Fiannery, Lot. sculp., 
138 

Florida ave., car line, 

"Plorida case before 
Electoral Com m." 
(painting), 74. 103 

Florists, 32 

Football, 27 

Foote, Adm. A. H., 
relics, 325 

— (fort), 489 
Foraker, J. B., home, 

203 

Force, P., site of home, 

103 
Force Pub. Sch., 228 
Ford warehou-e, 99 
Ford's opera house, 102 

— theatre, 103, 145 
Foreign and Dom. 

Com. Bur., 216 

— trade advisers, office, 
194 



;st Glen, trolley 
►ute, 15 

sstry Bur., 252 
: Myer, route, 487, 

55 

'oote, 489 
lunt, 490 
^yon, 488 

dcFherson, 509. 51 1 
tevens, 438 
,Vashington, 490 
est, Gen. U., Rose- 
ale hoine^ 440, 555; 
layor Georgetown, 
62 

sils, coll., 280-288 
indry Cliurch (M. 
',.), orig. site, 150; 
istory, 202 
ir Mile Run, 488 
irteenth St., car 
nes, 11-12; descrip., 
31-234 

irth St., car line, 16 
c & Van Hook, real 
state, 412 

G. v., coll. Russian 
ife, 330 

•Randall duel, 414 
<hall Foundry, site, 
.66 

H., founds Foundry 
rii., 202 

mce, embassy, 41, 
Jo8; former leg., 237 
mciscan Monastery,! 
ib., 39; gen. de- j 
icrip,, 423-429 ! 

inklin, B., statue,! 
103; cane, 129; in-! 
erest in farmers, 
252; printing press, 
house, 215, 217, 218 
school, 238' 
anklin inn, site, 151 
park, 232, 27,7 
sq. hotel, rates, 5 ; 
"estaurant, 8 
anzoni, C, sculp., 
home, 136, 403 
. G., sculip., 82, 89 
azee, J., 67 
eeidman's hosp., 430 
eeman, Mrs. Mar- 
garet, home, 190 
eemasonry, O 1 d 

Masoniq Temple, 
144; Masonic Tern., 
231; Scottish Rite 
Tem., 204-207; cere- 
mony, cornerstone 
Washington Men., 



INDEX 

343; Wasjiington 

Lodge No. 22, 517- 
19; proposed Wash- 
ington Mem., 522 
Freer Gallery of Art, 
339-342 
I Frelinghuysen, J. S. 
1 home, 199 
— , T., home, 236 
Fremont, Gen. J. C, 
} elopement, 133 

French, D. C, sculp., 
! 93, 154, 224, 368, 
: 402; ''Lincoln 
I Triumphant," 355 
I French drawings, con- 
temp., 270, 272 
I French S. S. Line, 43 
j Friends' meeting 
I /" house, 36, 237 
|/"Friendship" tract 

Frohaman, Robb & 

Little, archs., 457 
Fuller, Ch. Justice, 

church, 196; home, 

214, 229 
Fulton, R., statue, 92, 

402; first steamboat, 

224 
Fungicide Bd., 252 
Furness-Bermuda Line, 

43 
Furnished rooms, ■; 



Gadsby, John, home. 

193 
Gadsby's hotel, 99 
— • row, 218 
— tavern, Alexandria. 

516 
Gales, Joseph, home, 

190, 193 
— , J., Jr., home, 152 
Gallatin, Albert, 

church, 464 
Gallaudet college, 366- 

368 
— , E. M., 367 
— , T. H., 367; 

statue, 368 
Gait, A., 67 
Games, 26-29 
Garfield (apt. house), 

235 
— , Pres., assassination, 

XXXV, 244; statue, 

92; church, 221; 

home site, 235; me- 
morial, 240 



533 

— mem. hosp., 431 

— park, 406 
Garlington, Gen. E. 

A., head Greely Re- 
lief Exp., 235 
Gansevoort, coli. 

swords, 330 
Garnsey, E. E., arch., 

385; murals, 395, 

397 
Garrett, J. W., 98 
— coll. prints, 370 
Gasiton hall, George- 
town coll., 4.69 
Gayety theatre, rates, 

25 
Gems, coll., 311 
General Land Office, 

213 
General Staft' College 

lib., 37 
— ■ Supply Com., offices, 

348 
Gentlewomen's tea 

room, 9 
Geographic Soc, Nat., 

199 
Geological Survey, lib., 

39; offices, 213 
Geology, xx-xxii. See 

also Paleontology 
Geophysic)al lab., 441 
George Washington 

Hasp., 231, 232 
— ■ — 'hotel, Bladens- 

burg, 415 
inn, rates, 4; 

restaurant, 7; loc, 

405 
— ■ — univ., 214-215; 

law lib., 232 
Georgetown, made part 

of city, XXXV ; trolley 

routes, lo-ii, 15, 18; 

descrip., 462-4S3 
— ■ Heights, 476-479 
— ■ univ., hasp., 467 
— ■ — '.Law School, 99, 

140; lib., 38; Med. 

Dept. lab., 149: coll., 

467-470 
Georgia ave., car lines, 

15-16; descrip.. 430- 

440 
Germany, embassy, 41, 

224, 226, 22S 
Gerry, E., proposal of 

capital site, xxiii; 

home, 217; grave, 

409 



534 



RIDER'S WASHINGTON 



Gevelot, N,, 63 

Gibbons Hall, 419 

Giesboro Pt., 489 

Gill, De Lancey, arch 
316 

— , W. H., sculpture, 
316 

Gilliss, Lt. J. M., 443 

Glastonbury cathedra, 
Nat. Cath., 458 

Glen Echo park, trol- 
ley route, 15, 483 

Glenvvoiod, cemetery, 363 

Glide, G. W., statue, 
92 

Glol>e Hotel, 107 

Glover. C. C., home, 
193, 239 

Golf, 28; Potomac Pk., 
352 

Gompers, S., home, 
363 

Gonzaga College, old 
site, 145; hist., 362 

Goodyear, Chas., home, 
236 

Gordon, Geo., George- 
town, 462 

Gordon hotel, rates, 5 

Gorman, A. P., home, 
193, 238 

Gould, Jay, gift to 
Mt. Vernon, 497 

Government, D. C., 
first experiments, 

XXX : modified, 1820, 
xxxii; te r r ito r i a 1 
govt.. 1871, xxxiv; 
commission, xxxv; ad- 
ministration, xxxvi- 
xxxviii 

"—Hotels," 356 

— Prtg. Off., 361-362 

— (Vedder), 385 
Governors, royal, 

taxation council, 519 
Grace ch. (P. E.), 

Georgetown, 465 
Grace Dodge hotel, 7, 

3S6 
— ■ Reformed ch., 231 
Grafton hotel, rates, 5 
Grain Fnt. Trad. Act. 

Admin. 252 
Grammar, G. C., home, 

134 
Grand Army of the 

Rep., Stephenson 

mon., loi; hdqrs.. 

Grant Mdg., Soldiers' 
H., 434 



— circle, 432 

— , Gen. F. D., relics, 

326; Philippine coll., 

309 
— , Mrs. U. S., home, 

229 
— ; Pres., inau g u r a 1 

ball, 124; church, 

134, 136; mem. 

tablet, 135; 1S65 

hdqrs,, 153; mem. 

mon., 242-243; relics, 

324, 326; home, 362 
Graphic arts exhib., 

258. See also 

Printers' marks 
Graves, W. J., duel, 

414 
Grav & Pot^e, archs., 

238 
— , W. B., arch., 201 
— .Justice H., home, 

199 
Great Britain, embassy, 

41, 223; former leg., 

190 
Great Falls inn, 4S6 
of Potomac, trol- 
ley route, 19 

^ park, 485 

Greece, legation, 41, 

228 
"Greek Slave'' {Pow- 
ers), 174 
Greely, Gen. A. W., 

home, 214 
— relief expedition, 

235' 
Green, B. R., work on 

Pub. Lib., 226, 369 
— , Dr. Chas., 523 
Greene, Gen. N., 

statue, 91, 366 
Greenleaf, James, real 

estate venture, 350, 

412 
Greenleaf 's Point, 348 
Greenough, H., sculp., 

59. 259 I 

— , R. S., 90 
Greenwich Inn, 9 
Grehum, F., grave, 

409 
Gresham, W. O., death, 

190 
Gridiron Club, 30, no 
Gross. Prof. S. D., 

statue, 250 
Grotto of Nazareth, 

Franciscan mon., 



427; of Bethlehem, 

428 
Grover's Theatre, 108 
Guatemala, legation, 

41; former leg., 224 
Guiteato, C. J., slayer 

of Garfield, xxxv; 

execution, 410 
Gunnell, Dr. T. S., 

home site, 187 
Guthers, Carl, murals, 

382 
Gymnasium (theatre), 

102 
Gymnasiums, 26 
Gwin, W. M.. home, 

133 

H 

Haberdashers, 32 
HadHeld, G., arch., 51, 
137, 482; home, 144; 
grave, 409 
Hahnemann, C. S. F., 

memorial, 200 
Hair dressers, 2,^^ 43 
Haiti, legation, 41 
Hale, J. P., lodgings, 

100 
— , Rev. E. E., pas- 
torate, 232 
— , Sen. E.. home, 199 
Hall, Asaph, astrono- 
mer, 443 
— , D. A., home, 132 
Hallet, Stephen L., 51 
Hallowell, B., site of 

school, 515 
Halsall, W. F., 74 
Hamar, F., sculptor, 

186 
Hamilton, Ann, 135 
— , Alex., widow, 232 
Hamlin, H., lodging, 99 
Hammersley, 1. o 1 1 y, 

birthplace, 1S8 
Hancock, Gen. \V. S., 
monument, loi; 
relics, ^^7 
Hanna, M. A., resi- 
dence, 188 
Hanson, John, '^tatue, 

95 
Hardenbergh, H. G., 

no 
Harlan, Justice, statue, 

95; church, 2,; I 
Harold, execution, 351 
Harrington hotel, 
rates, 4; restau- 
rant, 8 



lodg-i 
lega-i 



Harris, Dr., home, 

193 
Harrison, F. B., home, 
201 

— , Mrs. Burton, home, 

516 
— J N. B., grave, 481 
— , Pres., church, 196, 

231 
Hartley, J. S., sculp., 

Hartl, Col. W. W., 
IIS, 116; plans Meri- 
dian Pk., 208 

I-Iarvey's restaurant, 

Hastings, T., arch., 154 
Hattala lib. Slavic lit., 

370 
Hawley, Rev. W., 

mem. tablet, 198 
Hay, John, home, 191, 

199 ^- 

Hayes, Pres., summer 

home, 434 
Hayne, R. W. 

ings, 99 
Playti, former 

tion, 220 
Health dept.. xxxvii 
Hearst, Bp., home, 228 
— , Mrs. P. A., gift of 

sch., 461; gift to 

Mt. Vernon, 497 
Heaton, A. B., arch., 

200, 224 
Heinzel lib. 

philology, 215 
Hemming, frieze 
Henderson, J. 

hofine, 207 
H end ley, H. IV., cos- 
tume models, 331; 

soulp., 316 
Herald (paper), 44, 

106 
Henry, Tos., grave, 

482 
— , Prof. J., relics, 325 
Herbert. M., ethnol. 

model, 301 '' 

Herndon House, site, 

14s 
Hewett, R., coll. Lin- 

aoln medals, 333 
High schools, 432 
PI i g h ] a n d s (apt. 

house), 224 
Hilda stone, Nat.. Cath., 

459 
Hillman House, 356 



Gei 



150 
B., 



INDEX 

Hirst lib. coll., 470 
History of city, 

xxiii-xxxvi 
Hoar, G. iF., home, 234 
Hqhan, James, arch., 

50, III, 112, 142; 

home, 137 
Hobart, G. C., resi- 
dence, 188 
Holiday, B., home, 

2Z7 
Holla nd-Amer. Line, 

43 
Holliday, H., windows, 

150 
Holmead Mansion, 224 
Holmes, Justice O. 

W., home, 236 
— •, W. H., ethnol. 

groups, 289, 290, 

292, 294; Mex. 

temple models, 316 
Holt homestead, 447 
Holy Cross acad., 228, 

441 

coll., 418, 422 

Holy Land, Coll. of, 

418, 429 
Honduras, legation, 41 

Hookworm disease ex- 
hibit, 249 

Ploo'per, Samuel, grave, 
481 

Hopkins, A. S., sword 
coll., -331 

Hornblozvcr & Marsh-\ 
all. archs., 260 [ 

Hopkins, Capt. Edw.,| 
duel, 414 j 

Horses of A. E. F., 
mem. tablet, 131 

Horticu 1 t u r a 1 Bd., 
Fed., 252 

Ho'spitals, 42; Colum- 
bia, for Women, 
218; Emergency, 
209; Epis. Eye, Ear 
and^ Throat, 231;! 
Garfield Mem., 431; 
George Washington, 
23 1 ; Geor g e t o w n 
Univ., 467; Lutheran 
Eye, Ear and Throat,' 
233; Naval, 215; 
Northern E m e r g - 1 
ency, 233; Provi-| 
d e n c e , 411; St. 1 
Elizabeth's^ 413, 489;! 
Walter Reed, 440 | 



535 

Hotels, list, 2-5. See 
also individual names 

Houdon, J. A., statue 
of Washington, 92; 
bust, 498 

House numbers, xx 

— ■ of Reps., office 
bldg., 403-404 

— of the Wliite Pea- 
cock, tea room, 9 

Houston, S., statue, 90; 
lodgings, 100; resi- 
dence, 218 

Howard, Gen. O. O., 
430 

— ■ hotel, rates, 4 

— ' House, 100 

— Univ., 363, 430-431; 
law dept., 140 

Howe, Justice Ward, 
III 

— , T. O., home, 236 

Howland, S. S.. home, 
236; coll. Buddhist 
art, 297 

Ho'wson, R., orig. grant 
Arlingtori estate, 
504; sells site of Al- 
exandria, 513 

Hoxie, Mrs. V. R., 
sculp., 63, 95, 96, 
222; home, 238; 
monument, 5 1 1 

Htibard, W. J., 63, 92 

Hubbard, G. G., Mem. 
Hall, 199; coll. 
prints, 370; "Twin 
Oaks," home. 441 

— , S. G., home, 187 

Hubby, Ella F., coll. 
Ind. baskets, 295 

Hughes, C. E., home, 
207 

"Human understand- 
ing'' (Blashfield), 
401 

Hunt (fort), 490 

— , R. M., tablet, 212 

"Hunting Creek 

Tract,'' 491 

Hurst, Bp. J. F., buys 
site for Amer. Univ., 
444 

Hutchins bldg., 103 

— , S., 103; gift of 
Webster mon., 201; 
home, 228" 

Hygiene, Naval Mus., 
215 



53^ 



RIDER'S WASHINGTON 



I St., 235-237 
lardella, Francisco, 64 
Idding?. J. P., coll. 

but-terflies, 321 
Immaculate C o n c e p- 

tion, Coll. of, 418, 

422 
Inaugural balls, 124, 

138. 140, 143, 324 
Incunabula, Thajciher 

coll., 370 
Indian Affairs Bur., 

oflrice?, 213 

— Queen. 100 
Indians, native tribes, 

XXV ; etlinol. e x - 

hibit, 288-296; Amer. 

abongines, 3 1 3 
Ingalls, J. J., statue, 

93 
Inge-Stanley duel, 414 
Jngersoll, R. G., home, 

189 
Insane asylum^ St. 

Elizabeth's, 413; 

Govt.. 489 
Insecticide Bd., 252 
Interior Dept., bldg., 

213-214; creation, 

252 
Internal revenue , 

com'r.. 124 
International Amer. 

Conf., jst, 236 

— Cat. Scien. Lit., 
260 

— Kxch. Service, 260 
— • Joint Ccumm., hdqrs., 

144 

— Reform Bur., 411 
Interstate Commerce 

Comm. lib., 38; 

l)ldg., 216 
Iowa Circle, 221 
Iron Hall (theatre), 

103 
Italy, embassy, 41, 

235: former leg., 

199, 222 
Itineraries, 46-49 
Ittner. W. B., arch., 

431 
Ives, C. B., 93 



Jackson. Justice H. E., 

home. 237 
— ', Pres. A., lodgings, 

99; statue, 186; 



church, 136, 196, 

231; homes, 217, 

447 
— , fC. H., pueblo 

model, 295 
Jaegers, A., sculptor, 

186 
Jail, city, 41 o 
Japan, embassy, 41; 

former leg., 220 
Japanese cherry trees, 

Jefferson, Pres. Thos., 
relics, 328; offers 
lib. to govt., 369;, 
church, 406, 464; 
names Anacostia R., 
412; Geor g e t o w n 
home, 465 ; choice of 
site for Capitol, 522 

Jenkins coll. Mary- 
landiana, 421 

Jensen, L., 126 

Jerusalem altar, Nat. 
Cath., 458 

Jewelers, 33 

Jewish synagogues. 34 ; 

Joan of Arc, statue,! 
208 

John Marshall Place, 
136-137 : 

— Paul Jones !Mem., I 
352-353 I 

Johnsonj Pres. A.,j 
residence, 106, 194;! 
church. 231 I 

— , Harriot L., be- 
quest for Buchanan 
mem., 208 

— , R., site of home, 
189 

— , R. C, art coll., 
272, 276 I 

— , iReverdy, lodgings, | 
99; schooldays, 464 I 

— , R. L., murals, 107 I 

— ; Thos., C o m m r,. I 
xxvi, 46s I 

Johnston. Harriet 
Lane, bequest, 271 : 
collection, 272, 276-i 
278 , 

Jones. Dr. Wm.,' 

home, 133 i 

— , Gen. W., grave, I 
410 

— .John Paul, ?klem.. 
352 

— . T. D., 67 

— Pt. lighthouse, 489, 
5 -'2 



Jordan font, Nat. 

Cath., 460 
Jouvenal, J., 103 
Judiciary, Dist., xxxviit 
~sq., 137 
Justice, Dept. bldg., 

220 
Joyce, J. A., h.jme, 

365; grave, 48 1 

K 

K St., 237-239 

K a 1 o r a m a (estate) , 

Kann s dept. store, 

lOI 

Kaufman, S. H., home, 
228 

— mem., Rock Cr.. 437 
Kearney, J., George- 
town home, 467 

— , Gen. P., statue, 

91; grave, 509 
Keenan, Geo., coll. 

Asiatic weapon-;, 296 
Keith's theatre. 25 
Kelley, Gen. B. F., 

grave, 507 
I'Cclsey, A., arch., 163 

— S" Cret, archs., 170 
Kendall, Amo-^, sch. 

for deaf^ 367 

— Green, 366 
Kenilworth, trolley 

route, 17 
Kenna, J. E., statue, 

91 
Kennon, Com.. B., 

burial place, 408; 
^ death, 477 
Key, F. S., home. 133, 

463, 466; 'Star 

Spangled Banner," 

329- verses by, 471; 

founder Christ's ch., 

472 

— Mem. Bridge, 466 
" — of Keys," 35.' 

— , P. B.. death, 185, 

187, 188; Rosedale 

home, 440 
Kilpatrick, Gen., relics, 

32s, Z2(> 
King, J. A., home, 193 
— , /. C, sculptor. 96 
— , W.. statue, qi 
Kirkside Golf Club, 

443 
Kirkwood. S. J., 

statue, 95 

— House, 106 



INDEX 



537 



Kitson, ^Mrs. T. A. 
R., 125 

— , S., sculp., 508 

Kiwanis Club, 31 

Kneessi, IV. D., arch., 
138 

Knickerbocker Iheatre, 
collapse, 235 

Knights of Columbus 
bldg., 151 

Pythias, order 

formed, 406 

Knox, P. C, home, 238 

Konti, I., sculp., 165, 
166, 263 

Kosciuszko, T., monu- 
ment,- 18s 

Kossuth, guest of Con- 
gress, 100 



Labor, A m e r. Fed. 
hdqrs., 227 

— Dept,, lib.. 38; for- 
mer offices, 215 

Laae exhibit, Nat. Mus., ' 
337 ! 

— shops, 32 ] 
Lafayette, mem., 185; 

relics, 328; relics, 
Mtu Vernon, 498. 499,^ 
501; entertained, A1-! 
exandria, 516, 520 ( 

— hotel, rates, 5; res- 
taurant, 8 

— sq., 184-195 
Lake Erie, battle (paint- 
ing), 74 ! 

Lalor, Alice, M. S.,' 

Convent of Visita-! 

tion, 474; tomb, 475 
Lamb, J. and R., 436 
Lamont, D., home, 191 j 
— , D. S., home, 214 1 
Land Office bldg., 144;' 

gen., 213 ; 

Landmark, Nat. Cath. 

close, 458 
Lane-Johnston, Harriet, ^ 

bequest Cath. Sch., 

459 I 

Langley, S. P., mem.! 

tab., 257; relics, 327;' 

appeal for Zo'ol. Pk.,; 

444; on Rock Creek 

Pk. Com., 454 
Lansing, Robt., home, 

234 
Latrobe, B. H., arch., 

52, 66, 88, 89, 171, 

192, 196, 225, 407 



Laurel, trolley route, 

18, 416 
Law Sch., Howard 

Univ., 430 
, Geo. Washington 

JJniv., 214 
— , Thos., home, 350; 

real estate, 405 
— , Wm., 364 
Lawrason, Thos., home, 

520 
Lea, Dr. I., coll. gems, 

Leadbeaters drug store, 
Alexandria, 520 

Lear, T., sec. to Wash- 
ington, 214; grave, 
409; bequest from 
Washington, 489 

Leather goods stores, 33 

Ledroit Park, trolley 
rooite, 16 

Lee family, summer 
home, 438 

— , Gen. R. E., statue, 
92; residence, 507; 
offered cwnmand Va. 
forces, 515; ohurch, 
Alexandria, 
515; home, Alexan- 
dria, 516 

— , Geo. W. Custis, 
sale of Arlington to 
Govt., 505 

— House, rates, 5; res- 
taurant, 9 

— , Rear Adm., home, 
19-'. 

— , Rich. B., grave, 409 

— ', Thos. Sims, 477 

Legation':. 40-42 

Leiter, L. Z., monu- 
ment. Rock Cr., 436 

L'Enfant, P. C._. plan 
oif city, xxvii-xxix; 
grave, xxix, 50, 97, 
508; plan for Nat. 
Cath., 455: office, 465 

— sq., 413 

Leonori, A., arch., 424 

— , P., bldr., 424 

Leupp, F. E., home, 
207 

Leutze, E., 85 

Lewis coll. Washing- 
ton relics, 329., 330 

— •, Eleanor Parke, 
grave, 503 

— , Lawrence, m a r - 
riage, 494; tomb, 502 

Liberty Loan poster 
coll., 267 



Libraries, 37-40; 
Agric. Dept., 254; 
Army Med., 250; 
Cath. U n i v., 420; 
Chem. Lib., Cath. 
Univ., 42 e; Coast 
and Geod. Sur., 405; 
Columbia Hist. Soc, 
141; Columbus Mem., 
167; Congress, 2,7, 
369-403; D. A. R., 
158; Fisheries Bur., 
247 ; Geo. Washington 
Univ., 215; Geo. 
Washington Univ. 
Law Lib., 232; 
Grand Lodge (Ma- 
sons), 231; Howard 
Univ., 431; Internat. 
Reform Bur., 411; 
Labor Statistics, 216; 
Nat. Mus., 265; 
Navy Deipt., 131; 
Pat. Off., 143; Pea- 
body, Georgetown, 
472; Pension Bur., 
140; Public, 226; 
Riggs Mem., 469; 
Soldiers' H.. 434; 
Standards Bur., 441; 
State Dept., 129; 
Sup. Council, 33d 
D e g., 206: Volta 
B'lr.. 476; War Dept., 
351; Weather Bur., 
219. 

Library of Cong., res- 
taurant, 7; regula- 
tions, 37; hist, and 
resources, 369-370; 
exterior and entrance, 
370-377; mural?, 377- 
398; rotunda, 398- 
403 

Lighthouse ipur.. 216 

Lincoln, Pres., assassi- 
nation, xxxiv, 145, 
193; Signing Eman, 
Proclamation (paint- 
ing), 87; statue, 138; 
Oldroyd Mem. Mus., 
145-147; church. 231 ; 
mask, 324; Hewett 
coll. medals, 333; 
Mem., 353-355; 
Emancipation m on., 
366; summer home, 
434; at Ft. Stevens, 
439; selects Arling- 
ton for nat. cem., 505 

— , R. T., home, 228 

— sq., 366 



s:^s 



RIDER'S WASHINGTON 



Lincoln's Hill, 414 

Lind, G. E., arch., 228 

Lingan, J. M., grave, 
507 

Linthicum, E. M., gift 
to lib., '472; George- 
town home, 478 

Lions Club, 31 

Litchfield, Grace D., 
home, 229 

Little Sanctuary, Nat. 
Cath. close, 458 

Livingston, E., home, 
192 

— R. R., 93 

Lloyd mansion, Alex- 
andria, 515 

Locks, Wash, canal, 486 

Lockwood, Mrs. M. J.', 
237 

Lodge, H. C, home, 
229 

Lodgings. S 

Logan hotel, 5 

— , J. A. residence, 
150; statue, 221; 
mausL'leium, 435 

— I, \'ice-Pres., church, 
134; mem. tablet, 

135 
Long. Breckinridge, 
home, 209 

— bridge. 487 

— , J. £)., home, 220 

Longfellow, H. W., 
statue. 223 

— , Rev.' S., pastorate, 
232 

Long's Hotel, site, 403 

Lord Baltimore Coun- 
try Club, 415 

Lorin windows, St. 
John's Ch., 196 

Lorraine lestaurant, 8 

Lotos Lantern, tea 
room, 9 

Louise Home, 228 

Loundeis, Francis, Tu- 
dor place, 476 

Loveil, Dr. J., home, 
194; grave, 410 

Lovers' lane, George- 
town, 478 

Lowdenrjilk's Old Book 
Store, 149 

Lucas, F. A'., taxid., 
310 

Luggage, I 

Luther. M., statue, 221 

Lutheran churches, 34 

— Eye, Ear and Throat 
Inlirmary, 233 



^ Mem. Church, 221 
Luxemburg, leg., 41 
Lyceum (theatre), 104 
Lyon (fort), 488 

M I 

M St., Georgetown, 463 
McAdoo, W. G., home, 

228 
McBlair's Row, 218 ' j 
McCarty, C a p t. D., 

church, 523 
— , J. M.., duel, 414 
McCeeney family, 423 
McClellan, Gen. G. B., 

hdqrs., 189, 217; 

statue, 224; home,! 

230; relics, 326 
McCook, Gen., hdqrs., 

438 

McCuUagh, H., tomb, 

437 

MacDougall, Capt. W. 

D., 443 
McElfatrick, J. B., & 

Sons, 107 
McElroy, J., home, 201 
McEwen, W., murals, 

380 
]Macfeely, Gen. R., 2^7 

2Z7 
Mackay, W. A., mu- 
rals, 3"83, 390 
Smith, Rev. A., 

home, 201 
McKenna, Justice J., 

home, 22Z 
McKeown hotel, 100 
McKini, C. F., arch., 

— , Mead & W h i t c, 
archs., 113, 208 

— . Rev. R. H., home, 
238 

McKinley, \Vm., assas- 
sination, xxxvi ; 
church, 134: mem. 
tablet, 135; home, 
149; cast of death 
mask, 326; at_ erec- 
tion Nat. Cath. Peace 
Cro-s, 457 

McLain, Rev. Wm., 
home, 134 

McLean, John, home, 
194 -- - 

McMahan Hall, 418, 
420 

— , Rev. Jas., 418 



MacMonnies, F., sculp., 

224, 402; Lib. Cong. 

doors, 374 
McPherson, Gen. J. B., 

statue, 220 
— , (fort), 509, 511 
— sq., 220 
MacVeagh, F., home, 

208 
Made's Hotel. 99 
Madison, Dolly, 120, 

189; at Octagon 

Hooise, 212; temp. 

bur. place, 410; flight 

from city, 479 
— ', Pres., home, 148, 

217, 218, 237; church, 

196, 406 
"Magdalen Tower," 203 
Magruder, W. B., 

home, 218 
Mail. See Post-office 
Maine mon,, 510 
Majestic (theatre), 102 
Mall, 240-255 
MaJlory, Lt.-Col. G., 

grave, 507 
Maloncy, Martin, 

Chem. Lab., 421 
Mammals, Amer., habi- 
tat groups, 303-305; 

Euro, and Asiatic, 

305-306; African, 

306-307 
Manning, D., home, 

234 
^Mansfield, Gen., hdqrs., 

216 
Manusdripts. in Lib. of 

Cong., 370 
Marcy, \V. D., site of 

home, 190 
— , W. L., home, 193 
Marine Band, 406-407 
— • Barracks, 406 
Marist Coll., 418. 422 
Market space, 101 
— ■ sq., Alexandria, 516 
Markeits Bur., 252 
Marlboro, Md., motor 

bus line, 21 
Marquette, Father, 

statue, 91 
"Marsh'' Market. 102 
Marshall house, Alex- 
andria, 521 
— , John, statue, 36; 

home, 214 
— ', T. H., home, 490 
JNlarston, home, 151 
Martha Washington 

inn, 9 



Iff 'll'jijl LUlilKUIUUHJiW 



Mgr., ^'^«''=' Meridian Hi 



Mar 
Mar 
36| 

Mar 

37 

Mar 
fo 
ap 

— A 

— ca 
Ma 

col 

coll, 
Masc 

d 
— , <- 

chu 
— , T 
— , J 
Masoniltde 

old 

Scott 

204-2 



sculptures, -j^j-g^gorites, coV 

edes la^^ chin-V- .* 
ital, XXVI, 



bldg.,xx^'^ 



len. 

[hon 

l\odV 



R 

te 
Alex^ria 
9; 

Wash ne 
Massaclfet 

225 - 

442-4 
Matildafle 
Matthc 

147 
— , Just] 

234 

-, ^r 



I 















11 '^ < 


mm 

"'' * Mill 


*> 








,f 




\ 



WASHINGTON 

AND VICINITY 
S. GEOLOGICAL SURVEY 

,,c FDITION SPECIALLY PRINTED 



r: --- 



5r : -.4 I 




O'Connell, Tames, 

hume, 363 
Connor, .1.. 91 
— , W. D., home, 150 
O.id Fellows hall, 151 
Ocrtel, J. A., 87 
O'Hara, Theo., verses, 

512 
Octagon house, 209-213 
"Old" Nat. Mus., lunch 

room, 9; descrip., 

322-339 
C) 1 d e s t Inhabitants 

Assn., 216 
Oldroyd Lincoln Mem. 

mus., 145-147 
0! instead, IV. B., arch., 

349 
Olmsted. F. L., 53' 

368, 444 I 

Omnibuses, 20-2 x 
OUiss and S c hu Is e,\ 

arcihs., 248 
O'Xeale, Peggy, career, 

2x7; grave, 482 
0"Xeale's hotel, site, 

217 
Oi)]'enheimer, M., 141 
Oriticians, t,^ 
"Organic Act," xxxv 
Oriental shops, 33 
Orplian asylum, 233 
Outdoor theatre, 348 
Oxford hotel, m 



Pacific Bldg., 141 
Packers and Stockyards 

Admin., 2-:,2 
Page, T. N., homes, 

-'28, 23s 
Painter, U. H., engr,, 

187 
Paintings, historic, m 

Capitol, 63 
Paleontology colls., 

Nat. Mus., 280-288 
Pahner, E. D., 95 
Palo Alto House (Bla- 

densburg), 415 
Panama, legation, 41, 

208; former leg.,[ 

224 
— Canal P.ur., hdqrs.,, 

144 ^^ . 

Pan-American Union,] 

lib., 37: bldg., 162-1 

171; estab., 236 
Papal legation, former 

site, 362 



INDEX 

Park, Emily H., mem., 
J 58 

— • Ci>mm., plans, 346, 
354, 358 

Parke, Gen. J. G., 
home, 193 

Parker, P., home, 194 

Parks, Capitol, 356; 
Lafayette sq., 184: 
Mall, 240-245 ; 

Meridian Hill, 208; 
Potomac, 352; Rock 
Creek, 454; Smith- 
sonian Inst., 255; 
Washington, 341; 

Zoological, 441, 444- 
455 1 

Parrortt, R., home, 478 

Parsons, James, bldr., 
514 

Partridge, W. O., 
sculp., 67, 437, 507 

Patent Off., lib., 38, 
143; descrip., 142- 
144; hist, note, 252 

Patriots, Gallery of, 
16S 

Patton, Rev. W. W., 
430 

Paul Pry, (paper), 364 

Paulding, Adm., home, 
188 

— ', J. K., home, 187, 
217 

Paunicjef ote. Lord, 
church, 196 

Pay Officers' Sch.. 
Naval, 215 

Payne, Edw., church, 
523 

— , H. C, death, 190 

— .John Howard, 413; 
grave, 480 

— . plotter against Lin- 
coln, hanged, 351 

- — . Mrs. J. B., restores 
St. John's ch., 196 

Peabody, Geo., clerk in 
store, 465; lib., be- 
quest, 472 

— Lib., Georgetown, 
40, 472 

— & Stearnes, archs.. 

Peace Cross, Cath 
close, 457, 458; Rock 
Creek cem., 43^6 

— Monument, 97 
Pearce, C. S., murals, 

377 
Peary. R. E., North 
Pole coll., 327 



Pell. Rev. A. D., art 

coll., 272, 279-280 
PcLz, P. J., arch., 203, 

369 
Penitentiary, old site, 

350 
Penn. ave., car lines, 

lo-i I ; bus lines, 20; 

descrip., 96-1 11, 215- 

219 

— R. R., station, 358 
Pension Bur., lib., 140 

— Off., 139-140 
Periodicals, 44 
Persia, legation, 41, 

202 

Perry, H.. bavreliefs, 
390, 391; fountain, 
403 

Pershing, Gen. J., of- 
fice, 131; at Nev 
Amphitheatre d e d., 
511 

Pcrslco, L., 58, 59, 60 

Peru, legation. 41 

Peter, America, mar- 
riage, 477 

— , Britannia. m a r - 
riage, 477 

— , David, 478 

— . Robert, hume, 239, 
462 

— , Thos., Tuil'jr place, 
476 

— and Paul tea 
room, 9 

Peter's Grove, George- 
town, 478 

Petersen, Wm.. 145 

Petworth, motor bus 
routes, 21 : ^2^2 

Peyton, Mrs. Eliz., 99 
i Pharmacy, Xat. Coll., 

214 ; 

Pharmacies, 32 
Philatelic colls,, 332 
Philip, W. H., home, 

194 
Photographers, 33 
Photography, hist. 

hibit, 337 
Pianos^ Worch 
i 310 

Pike, C. J., sculp., 507 

' Pience, Pres., lodgings, 

133; church, 136, 

— -Mill Club, 31 

P i e r p o n t , F. H., 

statue, 91 
Pierson, Saml., 513 



ex- 



coll., 



54: 



RIDER'S WASHINGTON 



Pike, Gen. A., statue, 

132; mem., 207 
Pillars, C. A., sculp., 

90' 95 
Pinckney. Rev. W., 

227; grave, 480 
Piney Branch Bridge, 

209 
Pitney, Justice M , 

home, 229 
Plager, ]V . S., arch., 

151 
Plant Indus. Bur., 

252; Quarantine 

Div., 2S4 
PI ass man. sculp., 103 
Piatt, Chas. A., arch., 

339 
Plymouth Cong, ch., 

234 
Po'hick Ch.. 523 
Pohlmann, Rev. H. N., 

memorial. 221 
Poland, legation, 41, 

208 
Police. metropolitan, 

xxxvii 
Poli's theatre, rates, 24 
Polk. Pres., church, 

136 
Polo, 28; Potomac pk. 

field, 352 
Pomeroy, Sen., home, 

190 
Pompeiian panels, Lib. 

Cong.. 390, 392 , 

Poor Clares (relig. or-j 

der), 474 
Poore, B. P., home, 

149 
Pope, C. A., So. Amer. 

coll., 317 
— , J. R.. arch., 204 
PopieU' A., sculptor, 

Papulation, xvu 

Porters, i 

Portland hotel, rates, 

S; restaurant, 9; 

loc, 220 
Portugal, legation, 42, 

441; former leg., 

199, 223 
Post card shops, 33 

— ''naper), 44, io3. 
228 

— office, city, facilities, 
22; early bldg., 144; 
new bldg., 357-358 

Dept., bldg., 104; 

earlv home, 142 



Postage stamp colls., 

Potomac hotel, rates, 
4; restaurant, 7; loc, 

•' 405 

— • Park, trolley route, 
II, 12; motor bus, 
121; descrip., 352- 
353 

— river, boats, 43; 
Little Falls, 483; 
Great Falls, 484 

Potter, E. C, sculp., 

402, 509 
Powell, J. W., grave, I 

507 i 

— , W. H., 63, 74 I 

Power plant, 405 
— , Rev. F. D., mem. 

tablet, 221 
Pozvers, H., 67, 241; 

"Greek slave.'' 174 
— ,, T. T., grave, 410 
—.P., 92 
Powhatan hotel, rates, 

5; restaurant, 9; 

loc, 216 
— • Indians, 412 I 

Pratt, B. L., bas-re-j 

liefs, 395; sculp., 402 
Presbyterian churches, 

35 ; Alexandria, 520; 

Georgetown, 464 [ 

Prescott House, 107 \ 
President's room, Capi- 
tol, 78 

— sq.. 114 
Presidents, papers in 

Lib. Cong.. 370 
Press Club, "Nat., 230 
Preston, W. C, home, 

189 
Printers' alley, Alexan- 
dria, 520 
— ■ marks. Lib. Cong., 
388, 389. 391. 392. 
See also Graphic arts 
Printing Oft"., Govt., 

361-362 
Prints, Lib. Cong., 370 
Proctor, A. P., sculp., 

209, 229 
— , R., home. i99.. 228 
"Progress of Civiliza- 
tion" (Blashfield), 
400 
Prospect Hill cem., 

Prtltestant Epis. 

churches, 35 
Providence hosp., 411 



Public Docs., lib., 38 

— Gardens, 244 

— Health Service, of- 
fices, 404 

— Lib. of D. C, 37, 
226 

— • Roads Bur., 252 
Publications Div., 

Agric. Dept., 252 
Pujol, P., 185 
Pulaski, C., statue, 108 
Pullman home, 208 
Punahase price, xxvii 
Pushmataha, Indian 

chief, grave, 409 
Putnam, H., Ibn. or 

Cong., 370 
Pyne, Rev. S., mem. 

tablet, 198 
Pythias, Knights, 

found., 406 • 



Quarantine, Plant, 254 
— ' Sta., 410 



Racquet Club, 30 
Railway Econ. Bur., 

lib., 38 
Railroads, gen., i. Sec 

also Unioai Station. 

and individual roads 
Raleigh hotel, rates. 

3; restaurant, 7; 

loc, 106 
Rammel hotel, Alexan- 
dria, 513 
Ramsey, Col. D., 516 
— , Wm., home, 520 
Rand. Lt., grave, 506 
Randall-Fox duel, 414 
Randolph, John, of 

Roanoke, duel, 414 
Rankin. A. E., metr. 

chapel, 430 
— , Kellogg &■ Crauc. 

archs., 253 
— , Rev. J. B., pres. 

Howard Univ., 430 
Rathbone, H. R., home. 

193 
Rausher's restaurant, ^ 
Rawlins, Gen. J. .\., 

statue, 102; burial 

place. 408 
Real Estate Title Ins. 

Co., 140 



Reclamation Service, 

offices, 213 
Red Cross. See Ameri- 
can Red Cross 

Line, 43 

Reed, Dr. Walter, 440; 

grave, 512 
— , — , hosp., 440 
Reform Sch., 414 
Reformed church, 36 
Rcid, R., murals, 388 
Reno, 442 
• — , Gen. J. L,, grave, 

481 
Renwick, J., arch., 172, 
194, 196, 256, 480; 
] tablet, 212 
' Representatives, Capi- 
tol, orig. wing 
burned,' 52; rebuilt, 
53; portiqo, 58; in- 
tenor, 83-88 
— , readiing room, Lib. 
Cong., 382 
' Reservoir, city, 363 ; 
' Georgetown, 477 
j "Residence Act," xxiv, 
xxix 
Restaurants, 6-9; Lib. 
Cong., 375 ; Union 
I Station, 360 
j RMnd, J. M., 1 01 
j R;ice, H. M., statue, 
^ 91; home, 362 
I Richardson, arch., 199 
Richmond hotel, rates, 
I s; restaurant, 9; loc, 

i 234 

I Riding and Hunt Club, 

30 
\Rictschel, sculp., 221 
Riggs bldg., 230 
— , E. F., home, 228; 
I mon.. Rock Cr., 437 
I- — G. W., home, 236 
I — • Mem. Lib., 38, 469 
[Rincliart, W. H., 75,1 

88 
* Ripley, Phoebe, grave, 
L 475 

! Ritchie, T., home, 191 
I Rittenhouse mansion, 

479 i 

'Riversdale. trolleyl 
; route, 18, 415 
1 Rives, W. C., home,! 

I 193 ! 

', Robbins, Z. C, home, I 
I 193 I 

[Roberts, H.. 92 1 

^Rohisso, J. T., siculp., 



INDEX 

Rochambeau apts., 222 

— , Mon., 186 

Rock Creek bridge, 
route, 13; descrip., 
229 

cem., 436-438 

park, 454 

" — of Dumbarton," 

462 

Rockville. route, 18 

Rodgers Classic Acad., 
464 

— House^ site, 187 

— , R., 59, 123 

Rohl-Smith, C, sculp., 
125, S07 

Roman Cath. churches, 
36 

Roosevelt, T., homes, 
193, 234, 235; 

church, 231; African 
coll., 306 - 307; 
secures Freer coll. to 
U. S., 339; lays 
cornerstone Amer. 
Univ., 444 

Root, Elihu, homes, 
199, 201, 228, 234 

Rose, U. M., statue, 92 

Rosedale estate, 440, 
455 

Ross, J. W., bust, 109 

Rotary Club, 31 

Rotunda, Capitol, por- 
tico, 58; interior. 
60-66 

— , Lib. Cong.^ 398-403 

— , New Nat. Mus., 
262, 270 

Rough Riders mon., 
510 

Royall, Anne, mother 
of yellow journal- 
ism," 364 

Rucker, Gen. T. B., 
home, 2Z7 

Rvcksftill. F. W., 
sculp., 93, 403 

Rumania, legation, 42 

Rush, Dr. B., monu- 
ment, 215 

Rvissia, embassy, 42, 
199; former embassy, 
2Z7, 239 



543 

— Alaysius Church, 
362 

— Ann's Infant Asy- 
lum, 218 

— Anthony of Padua 
Chapel, Franciscan 
mon., 426 

— • Asaph race track, 
488 

— Augustine's R. C. 
Ch. (colored), 231 

— Austin's Coll., 418 

— Cloud hotel, site, 
145 

— ' Ehzabeth's Hosp., 

413, 489 
— ' Francis of Assisi 

Chapel, Franciscan 

jeaon., 425 
^^-Gaudens, A., sculp., 

67, 402; mem. to 

Mrs. H. Adams, 437 
, Louis, statues, 

359 

— James hotel, rates, 
4; restaurant, 7, 
loc, 100 

— John's P. E. Ch., 
185, 195-199; George- 
town, 470 

, Sch., site, 455 

— Joseph Chapel, 
Fi-anciscan mon., 
424-425 

— Joseph's Ch., 365 

— Mary's R. C. Ch. 
(German), 141 

— Matthew's R. C. 
Ch., 234 

— Patrick's R. C. Ch., 
old site, 145; bldg., 
147-148 

— Paul's Ch., Rock 
Creek, 436 

— Paul the Apostle, 
Coll., 422 

— Peter and St. Paul 
Cath.,, 455-458 

— Peter's R. C. Ch., 
411 

— Stephen's R. C. Ch., 
218 

— 'Thomas Coll., 418, 

Ch., 



Sailors' Home, Tem- 
porary, 132 

St. Alban's Free Ch. 
(P. E.), 455, 458 



422 
-Thomas P. E. 



234 
— \ incent's Female 

Orphan Asylum, 147 
Salon des Nations, 11 1 
Salvadoi 

441 



legation. 42, 



544 



RIDER'S WASHINGTON 



Samp on, Adm., grave, 
512 

Sandford's hotel, iii 

Sartiges, Comte de, 
home. 479 

Satterlee, Ep. H. \ ., 
residence, 228; ist 
bp. of Wash., 457 

Saxton. Gen. Rufus, 
home, 207 

Sayre, Rev. J. J., 
tablet. 471 

Schermerhorn Augus- 
tus, gift to Pohick 
Ch., 524 

Schladcrmundt, H. T., 
mosaics, 377; fres- 
coes, 400 

Schley, Adm., home, 
237; relics, 325, 326 

Schoolcraft, H. C, 
home, 133 

— , H. R., home, 148 

S c h r e n , F a t li e r, 
murals, 469 

Scientific lit., Internat. 
cat., 260 

Scott bldg., Soldiers* 
H., 434 

— circle, 200 

— , Gen. \V., statue, 
200; home, 216; 
Mon., 435 

— , \'irginia, grave. 

475 
— , W. L.. home, 193 
Scottish Rite Temple, 

lib.. 19; bldg., 204- 

207 
Scryin=er, Capt. J. A., 

154 ^ , 

Seaton r■'^rk, E. and 
W.. 244 

— Pub. Sch.. 362 
Selden, :\I. C., home, 

132 
Selfridge, Adm., home 

237 
— , Lt. T. E., grave, 

509 

Semmes, Adm. R.. 
prisoner. 406 

Senate. Capitol, orig. 
wing burned, 52; re 
built, 53; portico 
57; interior, 69-83 

— , Office Bldg., 365. 

— . reading room. Lib. 
Cong., 383 

Sepulchre. TToly. Fran- 
ciscan Mon., 425 

Sequoyah, 96 



Serbs. Croats and 
Slovenes, legation, 
42, 224 
Sestini, Rev. B., 362 
"Seven bldgs," 215, 

217 
Seventeenth St., 153- 

184, 234 
Seward PI., 211 
— , W. H., residence, 
187; attack on, 187; 
church, 196 
Sewell, Molly E., 

home, 234 
Shepard. C. U., coll. 

minerals, 312 
Shepherd, A. R., 2d 
gov. D. C, xxxiv; 
removal of B. & O. 
yards. 98; office, 106; 
statue, no; homes, 
149, 239, 458; birth- 
place, 349; mauso- 
leum. 437 
Sheridan circle, 229 
— , Gen., statue, 229; 

grave, 508 
— , — . home of widow, 

229 
Sherman, Gen. W. T.,' 
mon., 125; marriage, 
194; homes, 231, 
362; relics, 325 
— . T. S., home, 201 
— .John, church, 150 

home, 238 
— • Plaza, 125 
— , Roger, statue, 93 
Shields, Gen. J., 

statue, 91 
5" /; i p I e y , Rutan & 
Cooledge, archs., 489 
Shipping Bd., U. S., 

offices, 347 
Shiras, Justice G., 

home, 228 
Shirlazv, W., frescoes, 

387 
Shoe stores, 31 
Shops, 31-33 
Shoreham hotel, rates, 
3; restaurant, 8; loc, 
230 
Shoup, G. L., statue, 

93 
Shrody, H. M.. sculp., 

242 
Shubert-BelasKTo thea- 
tre. 25 

Garnck theatre, 24 

Shubrick, Adm. W. B., 
home. 192 



Shuter hill, 522 
Siam, legation, 42 
Sibley hosp., 362 
Sickles, Gen., kills P. 

B. Key, 185, 187; 

home, 193 
Sight-seeing cars, 21 
Silversmiths. 33 
Simmons, B. S., arch., 

230, 235 
— , E.j^ murals, 378 
— , F., sculp., 63, 91. 

97, 222 
Sinding, S., 126 
Singleton, \V. R., 

grave, 482 
"Six bldgs.," 215, 21S 
Sixteenth st., 195-209 
Slidell, J., home, 191 
Small-pox hosp., 410 
Smith, Gen. E. K., 

statue, 90 
— , Hoke, home, 238 
— , John Cotton, on 

city in 1800. xxx 
— , S. H., home sitt- , 

230 
Smithmayer & Peh, 

archs., 468 
Smithmcyer, J. J., 

arch., 369 
Smithson, James, hist.,- 

255: mort. chapel and 

relics, 257 
Smithsonian Inst., lib., 

40; grounds, 247; 

hist., 255-256; old 

bldg.. 256-260; Nat- 
ural Hist, bldg., 260- 

322; Arts and Indu.«. 

bldg., 322-339; Freer 

Gallery of Art, 330 : 

int. in estab. Zool. 

Pk., 446 
Soccer football, 28 
Sodini, D., 92 
Soils Bur., 252 
Soldiers' Home, routes 

16; lib.. 40; descrip., 

363. 432-435 

, Temporary, 1 32 

Sonsa, J. P., birtli- 

place, 407 
Sc/uthard, S. L., homo, 

193 
Southern, bldg.. 230 
— Ry. bldg., 107 
Soutiiworth, Mrs., 

home, 466; gravf. 

481 
Spain, embassy, 42; 

former leg., 228, 229 



Sji.-inis-h-Amer. War, 
iiifl. on city, xxxvi; 
relics, i^T, Peace 
Cross mem., 457; 
mon., 510 

• — ■ — • Veterans'" Assn., 
org., 147 

Speedway, 352 

Spencer, Col. Nicholas, 
491 

Spofford, A. R., home, 
228; Ibn. of Cong., 
' 370 

Sporting goods. 33 

Sports, 26-29 

Sprague, Wm., home. 
140 

Stade lib., Biblical lit., 
421 

Stafford coll. Shake- 
speare, 421 

Standards Bur., lib., 
39; offices, 441 

Stanislaus, Sister, 
! grave, 475 
' S t a n 1 e y-Brown, J., 
home, 22^ 

— coll. Indian paint- 
ings, 271 

— Hall, Soldiers' H., 
I 435 

j— --Inge duel, 414 
jStanton, E. M., home, 
i 135. 238; at death of 
I Lincioln, 145; church, 

150; grave, 481 
— • hosp., 362 

— sq., 366 
Star bldg., 105 

— - (paper), 44 

! Stark, J., statue, 90 

State Dept., lib., 37, 
129; early bldgs., 
122, 216, 233; pres- 
ent bldg., 1 26-131; 
Annex, 194 

— , Sec. of, offices. 128 
' |— , War and Navy 
I Bldg., T26-131 

'States Rels. Serv., 252 

Stationers, 33 

(Stations, railroad, i, 

I 358-360. See also 
Docks 

Statuary Hall, Capitol, 

j 88-96 

Steamboat Insp. Bur., 

'1 216 

Steamship lines, 43 

Steele, CJen. F., home, 

' 193. 466 

Stelle's Hotels, 405 | 



INDEX 

Stephens, A. H., lodg-' 
ings, 100 

Stephenson, B. F., 
mon., loi 

Sterling hotel, rates, 
4; restaurant, 8 

Stevens. Gen. I. I., 439; 

— (fort), 438 i 

— , Thaddeus, aid to 
Prov. Hosp., 411 

Stier, H. J., arch., 416 

Stockton, R., statue, 
91; home, 191 

Stockton-Sickles house, 
193 

Stoddard, C. W., home, 
362 

Stoddert, B., Rosedale 
heme. 440 

Stone, H., 63 

Stoneleiglr Ct. (apt.), 
222 

Stores, 31-33 

Story, W. W., 56 

Strathmore Arms, 237 

Streets, arrangement, 
xvii-xx; Alexandria, 
513 

Strother's hotel, no 

Struthers, John, gift of 
Washington sarcop- 
hagi, 503 

Stuart. David, first 
commr., xxvi, 465 

Suffrage, Nat. .\mer. 
.Assn., coll., 331 

Suites, 6 

Sun-fner, Chas., home, 
190 

Sun Chia-Ku, resi- 
dence, 100 

Sunderland, Rev. 
Byron, home, 134; j 
bust, 136; pres. 1 
Howard Univ., 430 1 

Sunset inn, restaurant,] 
9 ' 

Supt. Pub. Docs., 362 

Supreme Court, Capi- 
tol. 66-68; homei 
1814, 411 

Surface car lines, 10-20 

Surgeon General, lib., 
37; dir. Army Med. 
Mus., 248; office, 
404 

Surratt, Mrs., execu- 
tion, 351; grave, 414 

Suter's Tavern, site, 
465 



545 

Sutter, Gen. J. A., 

death, 99 

Swain, Justice N. H.. 

honne, 237 

Sw'cden, legation, 42; 

former leg., 228, 234 
Swedenborgian church, 

. 36 

Sw'imming. 28 
Switzerland, legation, 

42 
Swords, Gen. Thos., 

relics, 327 
Sylvan theatre, Nat., 

348 



Taft, Pres., church, 

233; home, 238 
Tailors, ladies', 32 
Takoma Park, routes, 

12, 16; descrip., 440 
Talburtt, G. W., home, 

412 
T a 1 m a g e , Rev. T. 

DeW., 136 
Taney, Chief Justice, 

home, 132, 151, 187 
Tariff Com., U.. S., 

hdqrs., 144 
Taxicabs, 20 
Tayloe, B. O., city 

home, 199; pres. 

"Oldest Inhabitants," 

216 
— , Col. J., Octagon 

House, 209 
Taylor, Pres.. church, 

196; tem.p. bur. 

place, 410 
Tea rooms. 6-9 
Technology exhibits, 

Nat. Mus., 333-338 
Telegraph, first mes- 
sage, 82, 133 
— ■ offiqes, 23 
— . site of first office, 

143 
Temple of iFame, Ar- 
lington cem.. 508 
Tenallytown. See Ten- 

levtown. 
Tenleytown, trolley 

route, 18; descrip., 

442 
"T e n-m i I e Square," 

xvii 
Tennis, 29 
Textile exhibits, Nat. 

Mus., 334-335 



546 



RIDER'S WASHINGTON 



Thacher, J. B., incuna- 
bula, 370 
Thayer, A. H., coll. in 

Freer gall., 340 
Theatres, 24-26. See 
also individual thea- 
tres 
Theological S e m . , 

Epis., 488, 513 
Thomas circle, 220, 

228, 233 
— , Gen, G. H., statue, 

228, 233 
Thompson, J., home, 

214 
— , L., sculp.. 224, 435 
— , M., murals, 379 
— , S., home, 193 
— , W. P., lodgings, 99 
Thornton, Sir E., 

church, 150 
— , Will., arch. Capitol, 
51, 88; saves Patent 
Off., 142; homes, 
148, 465; arch. Octa- 
gon House, 209; 
grave. 409; arch. 
Tudor PL, 477 
Threlkeld family, 

Georgetown, 474 
"Tiber" river, xxv 
Times (paper), 44 
Tingey, Com., grave, 

409 
Tintern tea room, 9 
Tobaaconists, 32 
Toll-gate House, 439 
Tombs, Washington, 

502 
Tomlinson's Hotel, 364 
Toombs, R., residence, 

151 
Topography, xvii 
Totem poles, 288 
Tatten. G. O., arch., 

220 
Town-end. Amy, 524 
Tracey, B. F.. tragic 

death of wife, 236 
Tracy & Swartwout, 

archs., 245 
— , Uriah, cenotaph, 

408 I 

Tramways, 10-20 
Trap shooting, 29 
Treasurv Dept., bldg., 
122-126; annex, 187; 
Bur. Engr. & Prtg.,; 
349 i 

Treaty of Washing- 
ton, 2Z7 j 



Trees, historic, the' 
Mall, 241, 244:^ Jap. 
cherry, 352; Sharp- 
shooter's tree, 440; 
Mt. Vernon, 503 

Trentanove, G., sculp., 
91, 132, 201, 507 

Triebel, F. E., 91, 93 

Trinity Coll., 41S 

Trinity M. E. Ch., 411 

— P. E. ch., 132; first 
site, 141 

— R. C. ch., George- 
town, 467 

Trolley lines, 10-20 
Trowbridge & Living- 
ston, arch. 154 
Trowel, used to lay 
Capitol cornerstone, 
519 
Trumbull, Col. J., 62, 

63 
— , Jonathan, 93 
Trunk stores, 33 
Trust companies, 42 
Truxton, Commodore, 

home, 214 
Tryon, D. W., coll. in 

Freer Gall.. 340 
Tuclker, Enoch, 412 
Tudor place, George- 
town, 476 
Tunnjcliff, Wm., 410 
Tunnicliff's tavern, 410 
Turner, C. Y., 106 
Twining, W. J., 413 

— City, 413 

Tyler. Pres. J., oath 
of office, 100; church, 
196; home, 244 

Tyng, Rev. S. H., 471 

u 

Umbrella shops, 33 

"Uncle Tom's Cabin," 
firr^t publ. office, 151 

Union hotel, George- 
town. 464 

— • Station, i, 358-360; 
tunnel. 405 

, Georgetown, 466 

— Trust Co., 230 
Unitarian Ch., 36; first 

site, 137 
United cafeteria, 9 
— • States. For Govern- 
m e n t , departments 
and bureaus, see spe- 
cific names 
Br. Bank, 148 



Universalist Gh., 36 
University Club, 30, 

220 
— ■ Women, A m e r . 

Assn., 191 
Unknown Dead, monu- 
ment, 508 
— Soldier, grave, 511 
Upliues, T., sculp., 352 
Upjohn, R., tablet, 212 
Upshur, A. P., bur. 

place, 408 
Uruguay, legation, 42; 

former leg., 234 
Usher, Leila, sculp., 
507 



Vale, A., home. 191 
Valentine, E. V., 92 
Valperti, 89 
Van Buren, Pres. M., 

lodgings, 99; home, 

192, 217; church, 196 
Vance, Z. B., statue, 

93 
Vanderlyn, J., 63 
Van Deventer, Justice 

W., homes, 207, 2oi 
Van Hook, res., 412 
Van Ingen, W. B., 

murals, 387, 397, 399 
Van Ness, J. P., res., 

107, 171; old mauso- 
leum, 149 
— , Marcia B., m a r - 

riage, 107; burial 

.place, 437; -mauso- 
leum, 482 
"—Park." 162 
Vaults, Treasury Bldg., 

124 
Vaughan, Henry, arch., 

457 
— , Sir Chas., hom(\ 

192 
Vedder, E., murals, 

385; mosaic, 399 
Vendome Hotel, 99 
Venezuela, leg., 42, 

22^; former leg., 1991 
Vermont ave., 219-2221 
Christian C h . , 

221 
Veterans' Bur., 190 
Veterihary Med., coll. 

of, 214 
Vice-President's room, 

Capitol, 78 
Virginia, cedes land 

for capital, xxvi: 



]\ ;rocession, xxxu; 
C institution, 490 
J heol. Sem., 488, 

513 
"■isitation, Convent 01, 

473-475 

ocational Educ, Fed. 
Bd., 190 

'oik L. W., sculp., 91, 
324 

olta Bureau, lib., 39; 
work, 475-476 
olunteer Engine H., 
216 

on H e r h II I i s, A., 
arch., 422 

on Steuben, monu- 
ment, 186 

w 

fVachsmuth classical 

/lib., 215 

.jVadsworth, Com. A. 

.1 S., home, 2^7 

SJ. W., Jr., home, 

'! 191 

L^'aite, Justiqe M. R., 
church, 150; home, 

,235 

Valkcr, H. O., murals, 

1379 

r, N. v., 95 

-, R. J., home, 217 

JTallace, H. C., resi- 
dence, 441 

-, Gen." L., defense of 
citv, xxxiii; statue, 



'■allach, R., h o m e s, 
214, 362 

''allis restaurant, 8 
''all's Opera House. 
102 

:al-h. T. F., resi- 
dence, 229 

('alter Reed hosp., 
1440 

, Thomas IL, 53, 122, 
143, 144; home, 141; 
!tablet, 212 
falters, Rev. J. A'., 
,147 

'anamaker, J., home, 
236 i 

jar Dept., sword coll.,| 
331. 'S'^^ also State,! 
'iWar and Navy Bldg. 
(exhibit, 266-271, 3219, 
I331, 333 

lof 1812. attack on 
pity, xxx-xxxii, 364, 



INDEX 

365, 369, 413; Brit, 
h d q r s., 403, 406; 
cannon, 466; distrib. 
of materiel, 479 

— Risk Ins. Bur., 190 
— , Sec. of, offices, 129 
Warburton manor, 490 
Ward, Herbert, Afri- 
can coll., 301-303 

— , J. Q. A., s c u 1 p., 
228, 240, 402 

Wardman Park hotel, 
rates, 4; loc, 441 

Warner, O. L., sculp., 
374, 376 

Warren, H. L., arch., 
203 

— , W., arch., 208 

"Warwick," ■411 

Washington & Old Do- 
minion Ry., 19; sta- 
tion, Georgetown, 
466 

— , Apotheosis (fresco), 
65 

— Arsenal, 350 

— Asylum, 410 

— , Augustine, birth- 

place, 491 
—.Bait. & Annap. 

Elec. RR., 19 
— Barracks, 350-352 
— ■ Board of Trade, 106 

— Botanical Soc, 188 
— , Bushrod, at Mt. 

Vernon, 495; tomb, 
502 

— Canal, 102. 486 

— • Chamber of Com., 
106 

— circle, 218, 239 

— City Orphan Asy- 
lum, 233 

— Club, early home, 
187 

— • Col. Beach S'boat 

Co., 43 
— , Col. Geo. C, home, 

479 I 

— Evening Star, 105 ! 
— • (fort), 490 I 
— . G., choice of site 

for capital, xxv; 
statue, 92; Stuart: 
(?)port., 120; sword,! 
129: equestrian 
statue, 218; proposed 
mem., 245; Green- 
ough statue, 259; 
relics, 328, 332; 
Lewis coll. relics, ; 
329; Masonic trowel. 



547 

343; houses on No. 
Capitol St., 356; be- 
quest for nat. univ., 
444; church, 464; 
(jeorgetown hdqrs.> 
465; bequest to Mrs. 
Peter, 477; canal 
around Gt. Falls, 485; 
childhood, 491; title 
to Mt. \"ernon, 493; 
marriage, 493; presi- 
dency, 494; death, 
495; will, 495; Mt. 
Vernon, 495-504; int. 
in Alexandria, 513, 
514; church, Alexan- 
dria, 515; office site, 
Alexandria, 
516; quarrel with 
Payne, 517; relics in 
Masonic Lodge, 517- 
519; proposed Mas. 
Nat. Mem., 522; int. 
in Pohick Ch., 523 

— Herald, 106 

— 'hotel, rates, 3; res- 
taurant, 8; loc. III, 
149 

— inn, 356 

— , J. A., last owner 

Mt. Vernon, 496 
— , ist, tomb, 502 
— , 2nd, grave, 503 
— , John "the E m i - 

grant," 491 
— , L., birthplace, 491; 
title to Mt. Vernon, 
492; death, 492 

— Loan & Tr. Co. 
bldg., 145 

— Market, loi 

— • Monument, 342-346 
"—Parish Bur. 
Ground,'' 408 

— Ry. & Elec. Co.. 13- 
18 

— Soc. of Engrs., 189 
— -theatre. 104, 137 

— '-Virginia Ry., 19; 
station, 107; route to 
Mt. Vernon, 487-489 

— . W. A., residence, 
224 

Washington's Mill, 485 

Water transp., hist, ex- 
hibit, Nat. Mus., 336- 
337 

Watmough, Pay. -Gen., 
home. 2:^,6 

Weather Bureau, lib., 
39; office, 218-219, 
252 



548 



RIDER'S WASHINGTON 



Weber coll. Sanskrit, 

370 
Webster, D., statue, 

96; lodgings, 99, 100; 

church, 132; homes, 

137, 191; monument, 

201 
Weddings, White 

House, 119 
Weeks, J. W., ho'me, 

207 
Weems, Parson, 523 
Weinert, A., sculp., 372 
Wei n in a 11 n, A. A., 

sculp., 205, 253 
Weir, R. W., 63 
Welles, Gideon, home, 

191 
Wellington house, 489 
Wendell, Cornelius, 361 
Wesley M. E. Chapel, 

134, 140 
Western H. S., 470 
Westward Course of 

Empire (painting), 85 
Wetmore, Sen., home. 

Wharves, /trolley 
routes, IS, 16 

"Wheat Row," 350 

Whistler, J. M./ coll. 
in Freer Gall., 341 

W'hite, Henry, home, 
208 

— House, burned and 
rebuilt, xxxii; hist.. 
Ill - 114; grounds, 
114 - 115; interior, 
1 15-122; "Temporary 
White House," 193 

Whitman, R. E., grave, 
507 

Whitney, Anne, sculp., 
95 

— , G. v., sculp., 167 

— , W. C, home, 236 

Wiese's tavern, ■ Alex- 
andria, 519 

Wilkes, Com. Chas., 
explorer, 144; home, 
189; Exploring ex- 
ped., 241; coll., 301 

Wilkins, Beriah, home, 
228" 

Wilkinson, Gen. J., 
residence, 218 

Willard, Frances E., 
statue, 95 



Williams, Harriet, 
schooldays, 464; mar- 
riage, 478 I 
— , R., statue, 91 
— , W. G., death, 477 
Wilson, Henry, lodg- 
ings, 99 j 
— , Tas., homes, 220,! 
223 j 
— , John M., home, 237 
— , Pres., inscriptions 
on P. O., 357; new 
amphitheatre at, 511 
Winder bldg., 153 i 
— , Gen. W. H., defense [ 
of city, 1812, xxxi;| 
rout of troops, 415 
Windom, W., home, 
189, 228; tomb, 437 ^ 
Winthro-p, J., statue,, 

90 
Winthrop, R. C. lodg- 
ings, 133; addresses 
at Wash, mon., 344 
Wirt, Wm., home, 214; 
birthplace, 415; 
schooldays, 464 
Wirtz. Capt. H., im- 
prisonment, 
365; grave, 414 
Wise, H. A., lodgings, 

99; home, 214 
Wisedell, Thomas, 55 
Wisteria tea room, 9 
Withers, F. C, arch., 

368 
Witherspoon, J., statue, 

223 
Wolcott, Sec., XXX 
Woman's party, nat. 
hdqrs., 364 

— suffrage coll., 331 
Women's Christian 

Tem. Union, hdqrs., 
141 

— City Club, 30, 193 

— clubs. Sec indivi- 
dual clubs. 

— outfitters, 33 
Wood. Donn & Dent- 
ing, archs., 230, 231 

— , George, res., 102 
Woodbury, Levi, home, 

193 
Woodley Park, 440 
Woods. Elliott, arch., 

138, 365. 404 
— , .T u s t i G e W. B., 

home. 220 



^^'ood\vard & Lothri 

first site, 10 1 : st(" 

148 
— bldg., 230 
Woodward's Cent 

tavern, zoo 
Worch, A., piano c<< 

310 
Worden, Adm., hon 

238 
World War hist, coj 

266-271, 329, 331, 3; 
W o r t h i n g t o r 

Dr. Chas., Geoij 

town, 462, 467 
Wren, James, arch., 5 
Wright, B., engr., C. 

O. canal, 465 
— , Gen., at battle 1 

Stevens, 439; gra' 

508 
Wyeth, N. C, arc 

209, 218, 466 



Xiincnes, E., scul 
208 



Yachting, 29 
Ye Coffee Shoppe, 9 
Yeaton, Wm., 516 
Young, arch., 123 
— , Notley, early pr< 

erty holder, xxvi' 
— •Men's Christi 

Assn., 214 
Yturbide, Miss, toD| 

475 
Yudin lib. Russian ll 

570 



Zodiac signs, L 

Cong., 375 
Zolnay, G. J., scul 

431. 5" 
Zoological exhibits, Ni 

Mus., 303-310. Z2y 
Zoological park, 

441, 444-455 



111 



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